Locarno
WE were attracted to Locarno by the approaching fêtes in honour of the
fourth centenary of the apparition of the Virgin Mary to Fra Bartolomeo
da Ivrea, who founded the sanctuary in consequence.
The programme announced that the festivities would begin on, Saturday, at
3.30 P.M., with the carrying of the sacred image (_sacro simulacro_) of
the Virgin from the Madonna del Sasso to the collegiate church of S.
Antonio. There would then be a benediction and celebration of the holy
communion. At eight o’clock there were to be illuminations, fireworks,
balloons, &c., at the sanctuary and the adjacent premises.
On Sunday at half-past nine there was to be mass at the church of S.
Antonio, with a homily by Monsignor Paolo Angelo Ballerini, Patriarch of
Alexandria _in partibus_, and blessing of the crown sent by Pope Leo XIII
for the occasion. S. Antonio is the church the roof of which fell in
during service one Sunday in 1865, through the weight of the snow,
killing sixty people. At half-past three a grand procession would convey
the Holy Image to a pretty temple which had been erected in the
market-place. The image was then to be crowned by the Patriarch, carried
round the town in procession, and returned to the church of S. Antonio.
At eight o’clock there were to be fireworks near the port; a grand
illumination of a triumphal arch, an illumination of the sanctuary and
chapels with Bengal lights, and an artificial apparition of the Madonna
(_Apparizione artificiale della Beata Vergine col Bambino_) above the
church upon the Sacro Monte. Next day the Holy Image was to be carried
back from the church of S. Antonio to its normal resting-place at the
sanctuary. We wanted to see all this, but it was the artificial
apparition of the Madonna that most attracted us.
[Picture: Sacro Monte, Locarno, No. 1]
Locarno is, as every one knows, a beautiful town. Both the Hotel Locarno
and the Hotel della Corona are good, but the latter is, I believe, the
cheaper. At the _castello_ there is a fresco of the Madonna, ascribed, I
should think rightly, to Bernardino Luini, and at the cemetery outside
the town there are some old frescoes of the second half of the fifteenth
century, in a ruinous state, but interesting. If I remember rightly
there are several dates on them, averaging 1475–80. They might easily
have been done by the same man who did the frescoes at Mesocco, but I
prefer these last. The great feature, however, of Locarno is the Sacro
Monte which rises above it. From the wooden bridge which crosses the
stream just before entering upon the sacred precincts, the church and
chapels and road arrange themselves as on p. 269.
[Picture: Sacro Monte, Locarno, No. 2]
On the way up, keeping to the steeper and abrupter route, one catches
sight of the monks’ garden—a little paradise with vines, beehives,
onions, lettuces, cabbages, marigolds to colour the _risotto_ with, and a
little plot of great luxuriant tobacco plants. Amongst the foliage may
be now and again seen the burly figure of a monk with a straw hat on.
The best view of the sanctuary from above is the one which I give on p.
270.
The church itself is not remarkable, but it contains the best collection
of votive pictures that I know in any church, unless the one at Oropa be
excepted; there is also a modern Italian “Return from the Cross” by
Ciseri, which is very much admired, but with which I have myself no
sympathy whatever. It is an Academy picture.
[Picture: Cloister at Sacro Monte, Locarno]
The cloister looking over the lake is very beautiful. In the little
court down below—which also is of great beauty—there is a chapel
containing a representation of the Last Supper in life-sized coloured
statues as at Varallo, which has a good deal of feeling, and a fresco (?)
behind it which ought to be examined, but the chapel is so dark that this
is easier said than done. There is also a fresco down below in the
chapel where the founder of the sanctuary is buried which should not be
passed over. It is dated 1522, and is Luinesque in character. When I
was last there, however, it was hardly possible to see anything, for
everything was being turned topsy-turvy by the arrangements which were
being made for the approaching fêtes. These were very gay and pretty;
they must have cost a great deal of money, and I was told that the
municipality in its collective capacity was thought mean, because it had
refused to contribute more than 100 francs, or £4 sterling. It does seem
rather a small sum certainly.
On the afternoon of Friday the 13th of August the Patriarch Monsignor
Ballerini was to arrive by the three o’clock boat, and there was a crowd
to welcome him. The music of Locarno was on the quay playing a
selection, not from “Madame Angot” itself, but from something very like
it—light, gay, sparkling opera bouffe—to welcome him. I felt as I had
done when I found the matchbox in the sanctuary bedroom at Graglia: not
that I minded it myself, but as being a little unhappy lest the Bishop
might not quite like it.
I do not see how we could welcome a bishop—we will say to a
confirmation—with a band of music at all. Fancy a brass band of some
twenty or thirty ranged round the landing stage at Gravesend to welcome
the Bishop of London, and fancy their playing we will say “The two
Obadiahs,” or that horrid song about the swing going a little bit higher!
The Bishop would be very much offended. He would not go a musical inch
beyond the march in “Le Prophète,” nor, willingly, beyond the march in
“Athalie.” Monsignor Ballerini, however, never turned a hair; he bowed
repeatedly to all round him, and drove off in a carriage and pair,
apparently much pleased with his reception. We Protestants do not
understand, nor take any very great pains to understand, the Church of
Rome. If we did, we should find it to be in many respects as much in
advance of us as it is behind us in others.
One thing made an impression upon me which haunted me all the time. On
every important space there were advertisements of the programme, the
substance of which I have already given. But hardly, if at all less
noticeable, were two others which rose up irrepressible upon every
prominent space, searching all places with a subtle penetrative power
against which precautions were powerless. These advertisements were not
in Italian but in English, nevertheless they were neither of them
English—but both, I believe, American. The one was that of the Richmond
Gem cigarette, with the large illustration representing a man in a hat
smoking, so familiar to us here in London. The other was that of Wheeler
& Wilson’s sewing machines.
As the Patriarch drove off in the carriage the man in the hat smoking the
Richmond Gem cigarette leered at him, and the woman working Wheeler &
Wilson’s sewing machine sewed at him. During the illuminations the
unwonted light threw its glare upon the effigies of saints and angels,
but it illumined also the man in the black felt hat and the woman with
the sewing machine; even during the artificial apparition of the Virgin
Mary herself upon the hill behind the town, the more they let off
fireworks the more clearly the man in the hat came out upon the walls
round the market-place, and the bland imperturbable woman working at her
sewing machine. I thought to myself that when the man with the hat
appeared in the piazza the Madonna would ere long cease to appear on the
hill.
Later on, passing through the town alone, when the people had gone to
rest, I saw many of them lying on the pavement under the arches fast
asleep. A brilliant moon illuminated the market-place; there was a
pleasant sound of falling water from the fountain; the lake was bathed in
splendour, save where it took the reflection of the mountains—so peaceful
and quiet was the night that there was hardly a rustle in the leaves of
the aspens. But whether in moonlight or in shadow, the busy persistent
vibrations that rise in Anglo-Saxon brains were radiating from every
wall, and the man in the black felt hat and the bland lady with the
sewing machine were there—lying in wait, as a cat over a mouse’s hole, to
insinuate themselves into the hearts of the people so soon as they should
wake.
Great numbers came to the festivities. There were special trains from
Biasca and all intermediate stations, and special boats. And the ugly
flat-nosed people came from the Val Verzasca, and the beautiful people
came from the Val Onsernone and the Val Maggia, and I saw Anna, the
curate’s housekeeper, from Mesocco, and the old fresco painter who told
me he should like to pay me a visit, and suggested five o’clock in the
morning as the most appropriate and convenient time. The great
procession contained seven or eight hundred people. From the balcony of
the Hotel della Corona I counted as well as I could and obtained the
following result:—
Women 120
Men with white shirts and red capes 85
Men with white shirts and no capes (?)
The music from Intra 30
Men with white shirts and blue capes 25
Men with white shirts and no capes 25
Men with white shirts and green capes 12
Men with white shirts and no capes 36
The music of Locarno 30
Girls in blue, pink, white and yellow, red, white 50
Choristers 3
Monks 6
Priests 66
Canons 12
His Excellency Paolo Angelo Ballerini, Patriarch of 25
Alexandria in Egypt, escorted by the firemen, and his
private cortège of about 20
Government ushers (?)
The Grand Council, escorted by 22 soldiers and 6 policemen 28
The clergy without orders 30
583
In the evening, there, sure enough, the apparition of the Blessed Virgin
was. The church of the Madonna was unilluminated and all in darkness,
when on a sudden it sprang out into a blaze, and a great transparency of
the Virgin and child was lit up from behind. Then the people said, “Oh
bel!”
I was myself a little disappointed. It was not a good apparition, and I
think the effect would have been better if it had been carried up by a
small balloon into the sky. It might easily have been arranged so that
the light behind the transparency should die out before the apparition
must fall again, and also that the light inside the transparency should
not be reflected upon the balloon that lifted it; the whole, therefore,
would appear to rise from its own inherent buoyancy. I am confident it
would have been arranged in this way if the thing had been in the hands
of the Crystal Palace people.
There is a fine old basilicate church dedicated to S. Vittore at the
north end of Locarno. It is the mother church of these parts and dates
from the eighth or ninth century. The frescoes inside the apse were once
fine, but have been repainted and spoiled. The tower is much later, but
is impressive. It was begun in 1524 and left incomplete in 1527,
probably owing to the high price of provisions which is commemorated in
the following words written on a stone at the top of the tower inside
1527
Furm. [fromento—corn] cost lib. 6.
Segale [barley] lib. 5.
Milio [millet] lib. 4.
I suppose these were something like famine prices; at any rate, a workman
wrote this upon the tower and the tower stopped.