The old lady exclaimed: "What a frightful condition!"

"Tell us more," said the prince.

"Well," I continued, "one day the mayor of the city invited me

to accompany him to the station, as the divorce train was about

to arrive. I found at the station a judge and one of the court

attendants. The attendant had a large package of divorce decrees

to which the seal of the court had been attached, and also the

signature of the judge. They only required to have the name of

the party desiring divorce inserted. Alongside the judge stood

a clergyman of the Established Church in full robes of his sacred

office. When the passengers had all left the cars, the conductor

jumped on to one of the car platforms and shouted to the crowd:

'All those who desire divorce will go before the judge and make

their application.'

"When they had all been released by the court the conductor again

called out: 'All those who have been accompanied by their partners,

or where both have been to-day released from their former husbands

and wives to be remarried, will go before the rector.' He married

them in a body, whereupon they all resumed their places on the

train. The blowing of the whistle and the ringing of the bell on

the locomotive was the music of their first, second, or third

honeymoon journey."

The old lady threw up her hands in horror and cried: "Such an

impious civilization must come speedily not only to spiritual and

moral destruction, but chaos."

Most of the company saw what an amazing caricature the whole story

was and received it with great hilarity. The effect of it was to

end, for that circle, at least, and their friends, a serious

discussion of the universality of American divorces.

The prince was always an eager sportsman and a very chivalric

one. At the time of one of the races at Cowes he became very

indignant at the conduct of an American yachtsman who had entered

his boat. It was charged by the other competitors that this

American yachtsman violated all the unwritten laws of the contest.

After the race the prince said to me: "A yacht is a gentleman's

home, whether it is racing or sailing about for pleasure. The

owner of this yacht, to make her lighter and give her a better

chance, removed all the furniture and stripped her bare. He even

went so far, I am told, that when he found the steward had left

his stateroom a tooth-brush, he threw it out of the port window."

It will be seen from these few anecdotes how intensely human was

the Prince of Wales. He did much for his country, both as prince

and king, and filled in a wise and able way the functions of his

office. Certainly no official did quite so much for the peace of

Europe during his time, and no royalty ever did more to make the

throne popular with the people. I heard him speak at both formal

and informal occasions, and his addresses were always tactful

and wise.

While at Homburg we used to enjoy the delightful excursions to

Nauheim, the famous nerve-cure place. I met there at one time

a peculiar type of Americans, quite common in former years. They

were young men who, having inherited fortunes sufficient for their

needs, had no ambitions. After a strenuous social life at home

and in Europe, they became hypochondriacs and were chasing cures

for their imaginary ills from one resort to another.

One of them, who had reached middle life, had, of course, become

in his own opinion a confirmed invalid. I asked him: "What

brought you here? You look very well."

"That is just my trouble," he answered. "I look very well and

so get no sympathy, but my nervous system is so out of order that

it only takes a slight shock to completely disarrange it. For

instance, the cause of my present trouble. I was dining in Paris

at the house of a famous hostess, and a distinguished company

was present. The only three Americans were two ladies and myself.

I was placed between them. You know one of these ladies, while

a great leader at home, uses very emphatic language when she is

irritated. The dinner, like most French dinners, with many

courses, was unusually long. Suddenly this lady, leaning over

me, said to her sister: 'Damn it, Fan, will this dinner never end?'

The whole table was shocked and my nerves were completely shattered."

The great war, as I think, exterminated this entire tribe.

I was delighted to find at Nauheim my old friends, Mark Twain and

the Reverend Doctor Joseph Twichell, of Hartford, Conn. Doctor

Twichell was Mark Twain's pastor at home. He was in college with

me at Yale, and I was also associated with him in the governing

corporation of Yale University. He was one of the finest wits

and remarkable humorists of his time. Wit and humor were with

him spontaneous, and he bubbled over with them. Mark Twain's

faculties in that line were more labored and had to be worked out.

Doctor Twichell often furnished in the rough the jewels which

afterwards in Mark Twain's workshop became perfect gems.

I invited them to come over and spend the day and dine with me

in the evening at Homburg. Mark Twain at that time had the

reputation in England of being the greatest living wit and humorist.

It soon spread over Homburg that he was in town and was to dine

with me in the evening, and requests came pouring in to be invited.

I kept enlarging my table at the Kursaal, with these requests,

until the management said they could go no farther. I placed

Mark Twain alongside Lady Cork, one of the most brilliant women

in England. In the course of years of acquaintance I had met

Mark Twain under many conditions. He was very uncertain in a

social gathering. Sometimes he would be the life of the occasion

and make it one to be long remembered, but generally he contributed

nothing. At this dinner, whenever he showed the slightest sign

of making a remark, there was dead silence, but the remark did

not come. He had a charming time, and so did Lady Cork, but the

rest of the company heard nothing from the great humorist, and

they were greatly disappointed.

The next morning Mark Twain came down to the springs in his

tramping-suit, which had fairly covered the continent. I introduced

him to the Prince of Wales, and he was charmed with him in their

hour of walk and talk. At dinner that evening the prince said

to me: "I would have invited Mark Twain this evening, if I thought

he had with him any dinner clothes."

"At my dinner last night," I said, "he met every conventional

requirement."

"Then," continued the prince, "I would be much obliged if you

would get him for dinner with me to-morrow evening."

It was very much the same company as had dined with the prince

the night before. Again Twain was for a long time a complete

disappointment. I knew scores of good things of his and tried

my best to start him off, but without success. The prince, who

was unusually adroit and tactful in drawing a distinguished guest

out, also failed. When the dinner was over, however, and we had

reached the cigars, Mark Twain started in telling a story in his

most captivating way. His peculiar drawl, his habit in emphasizing

the points by shaking his bushy hair, made him a dramatic narrator.

He never had greater success. Even the veteran Mark himself was

astonished at the uproarious laughter which greeted almost every

sentence and was overwhelming when he closed.

There are millions of stories in the world, and several hundred

of them good ones. No one knew more of them than Mark Twain,

and yet out of this vast collection he selected the one which

I had told the night before to the same company. The laughter

and enjoyment were not at the story, but because the English had,

as they thought, caught me in retailing to them from Mark Twain's

repertoire one of his stories. It so happened that it was a story

which I had heard as happening upon our railroad in one of my

tours of inspection. I had told it in a speech, and it had been

generally copied in the American newspapers. Mark Twain's

reputation as the greatest living humorist caused that crowd to

doubt the originality of my stories.

Mark had declined the cigars, but the prince was so delighted that

he offered him one of the highly prized selection from his own

case. This drew from him a story, which I have not seen in any

of his books. I have read Mark Twain always with the greatest

pleasure. His books of travel have been to me a source of endless

interest, and his "Personal Recollections of Joan of Arc" is the

best representation of the saint and heroine that I know.

When the prince offered him the cigar, Mark said: "No, prince,

I never smoke. I have the reputation in Hartford, Conn., of

furnishing at my entertainments the worst of cigars. When I was

going abroad, and as I would be away for several years, I gave

a reception and invited all my friends. I had the governor of

the State of Connecticut and the judges of the highest courts,

and the most distinguished members of the legislature. I had

the leading clergymen and other citizens, and also the president

and faculty of Yale University and Trinity College.

"At three o'clock in the afternoon my butler, who is a colored

man, Pompey by name, came to me and said: 'Mr. Clemens, we have

no cigars.' Just then a pedler's wagon stopped at the gate. In

England they call them cheap jacks. I hailed the merchant and

said: 'What have you in your wagon?' 'Well,' he answered, 'I have

some Gobelin tapestries, Sevres china, and Japanese cloisonne

vases, and a few old masters.' Then I said to him: 'I do not

want any of those, but have you cigars, and how much?' The pedler

answered: 'Yes, sir, I have some excellent cigars, which I will

sell you at seventeen cents a barrel.' I have to explain that

a cent is an English farthing. Then I told him to roll a barrel in."

"It was a great occasion, one of the greatest we ever had in the

old State of Connecticut," continued Mark, "but I noticed that

the guests left unusually early after supper. The next morning

I asked the butler why they left so early. 'Well,' he said,

'Mr. Clemens, everybody enjoyed the supper, and they were all

having a good time until I gave them the cigars. After the gentleman

had taken three puffs, he said: "Pomp, you infernal nigger, get

me my hat and coat quick." When I went out, my stone walk, which

was one hundred yards long from the front door to the gate, was

just paved with those cigars.'" This specimen of American

exaggeration told in Mark Twain's original way made a great hit.

I met Mark Twain at a theatrical supper in London given by

Sir Henry Irving. It was just after his publishing firm had failed

so disastrously. It was a notable company of men of letters,

playwrights, and artists. Poor Mark was broken in health and

spirits. He tried to make a speech, and a humorous one, but it

saddened the whole company.

I met him again after he had made the money on his remarkable

lecture tour around the world, with which he met and paid all his

debts. It was an achievement worthy of the famous effort of

Sir Walter Scott. Jubilant, triumphant, and free, Mark Twain that

night was the hero never forgotten by any one privileged to

be present.

One year, after strenuous work and unusual difficulties, which,

however, had been successfully met, I was completely exhausted.

I was advised to take a short trip to Europe, and, as usual, the

four weeks' change of air and occupation was a complete cure.

I decided to include Rome in my itinerary, though I felt that my

visit would be something like the experience of Phineas Fogg, who

did the whole of Europe and saw all there was of it in ten days.

When I arrived in the Eternal City, my itinerary gave me four days

there. I wanted to see everything and also to meet, if possible,

one of the greatest of popes, Leo XIII. I was armed only with a

letter from my accomplished and distinguished friend, Archbishop

Corrigan. I secured the best-known guide, who informed me that

my efforts to see the sights within my limited time would be

impossible. Nevertheless, the incentive of an extra large commission

dependent upon distances covered and sights seen, led to my going

through the streets behind the best team of horses in Rome and

pursued by policemen and dogs, and the horses urged on by a driver

frantic for reward, and a guide who professionally and financially

was doing the stunt of his life. It was astounding how much ground

was really covered in the city of antiquities and art by this

devotion to speed and under competent guidance.

When I asked to see the pope, I was informed that his health was

not good and audiences had been suspended. I wrote a letter

to the cardinal-secretary, enclosing Archbishop Corrigan's letter,

and stated my anxiety to meet His Holiness and the limited time

I had. A few hours afterwards I received a letter from the cardinal

stating that the Holy Father appreciated the circumstances, and

would be very glad to welcome me in private audience at eleven

o'clock the next morning.

When I arrived at the Vatican I was received as a distinguished

visitor. The papal guards were turned out, and I was finally

ushered into the room of Cardinal Merry del Val. He was a young

man then and an accomplished diplomat, and most intimately informed

on all questions of current interest. Literature, music, drama,

political conditions in Europe were among his accomplishments.

He said the usual formula when a stranger is presented to the pope

is for the guest to kneel and kiss his ring. The pope has decided

that all this will be omitted in your case. He will receive you

exactly as an eminent foreigner calling by appointment upon the

President of the United States.

When I was ushered into the presence of the pope he left his

throne, came forward, grasped me cordially by the hand, and welcomed

me in a very charming way. He was not a well man, and his bloodless

countenance was as white and pallid as his robes. This was all

relieved, however, by the brilliancy of his wonderful eyes.

After a few preliminary remarks he plunged into the questions in

which he was deeply interested. He feared the spread of communism

and vividly described its efforts to destroy the church, ruin

religion, extirpate faith, and predicted that if successful it

would destroy civilization.

I told him that I was deeply interested in the encyclical he had

recently issued to reconcile or make more harmonious the relations

between capital and labor. He commenced speaking upon that

subject, and in a few minutes I saw that I was to be privileged

to hear an address from one who as priest and bishop had been

one of the most eloquent orators of the age. In his excitement he

leaned forward, grasping the arms of the throne, the color returned

to his cheeks, his eyes flashed, his voice was vibrant, and I was

the audience, the entranced audience of the best speech I ever

heard upon the question of labor and capital.

I was fearful on account of his health, that the exertion might be

too great, and so arose to leave. He again said to me, and taking

my hand: "I know all about you and am very grateful to you that

in your official capacity as president of the New York Central

Railroad you are treating so fairly the Catholics. I know that

among your employees twenty-eight thousand are of the Catholic

faith, and not one of them has ever known any discrimination

because of their belief, but all of them have equal opportunities

with the others for the rewards of their profession and protection

in their employment."

The next day he sent a special messenger for a renewal of the

conversation, but unhappily I had left Rome the night before.

During my stay in Rome of four days I had visited most of its

antiquities, its famous churches, and spent several hours in the

Vatican gallery. Our American minister, one of the most accomplished

of our diplomats, Mr. William Potter, had also given me a dinner,

where I was privileged to meet many celebrities of the time.

Among English statesmen I found in Lord Salisbury an impressive

figure. In a long conversation I had with him at the Foreign Office

he talked with great freedom on the relations between the

United States and Great Britain. He was exceedingly anxious that

friendly conditions should continue and became most cordial.

The frequent disposition on the part of American politicians to

issue a challenge or create eruptions disturbed him. I think he

was in doubt when President Cleveland made his peremptory demands

on the Venezuela boundary question if the president recognized

their serious importance, both for the present and the future. He,

however, reluctantly yielded to the arbitration, won a complete

victory, and was satisfied that such irritating questions were

mainly political and for election purposes, and had better be met

in a conciliatory spirit.

I remember a garden-party at Hatfield House, the historical home

of the Cecils, given in honor of King Victor Emmanuel III, who

had recently come to the throne. Lord Salisbury was of gigantic

proportions physically, while the king was undersized. The contrast

between the two was very striking, especially when they were in

animated conversation--the giant prime minister talking down to

His Majesty, and he with animated gestures talking up to the premier.

It is not too great a stretch of imagination, when one knows how

traditional interviews and conversations between European rulers

affect their relations, present and future, to find in that

entertainment and conference that the seed there was sown for

the entrance of Italy, at one of the crises of the Great War, on

the side of the Allies and against Germany, to whom she was bound

by the Triple Alliance.

Mr. Gladstone said to me at one time: "I have recently met a most

interesting countryman of yours. He is one of the best-informed

and able men of any country whom I have had the pleasure of talking

with for a long time, and he is in London now. I wish you would

tell me all about him."

Mr. Gladstone could not recall his name. As there were a number

of American congressmen in London, I asked: "Was he a congressman?"

"No," he answered; "he had a more important office."

I then remembered that DeWitt Clinton, when a United States senator,

resigned to become mayor of the City of New York. On that

inspiration I asked: "Mayor of the City of New York?"

"Yes, that is it," Mr. Gladstone answered.

I then told him that it was Abram S. Hewitt, and gave him a

description of Mr. Hewitt's career. Mr. Gladstone was most

enthusiastic about him.

It was my fortune to know Mr. Hewitt very well for many years.

He richly merited Mr. Gladstone's encomium. He was one of the

most versatile and able Americans in public or private life during

his time. His father was an English tenant-farmer who moved with

his family to the United States. Mr. Hewitt received a liberal

education and became a great success both in business and public

life. He was much more than a business man, mayor of New York,

or a congressman--he was public-spirited and a wise reformer.

Mr. Hewitt told me two interesting incidents in his career. When

he visited England he was received with many and flattering

attentions. Among his invitations was a week-end to the home

of the nobleman upon whose estates his father had been a

tenant-farmer. When Mr. Hewitt told the nobleman, who was

entertaining him as a distinguished American, about his father's

former relations as one of his tenants, the nobleman said: "Your

father made a great mistake in giving up his farm and emigrating

to the United States. He should have remained here."

Mr. Hewitt said: "But, my lord, so far as I am concerned I do

not think so."

"Why?" asked his lordship.

"Because," answered Mr. Hewitt, "then I could never have been a

guest on equal terms in your house."

Mr. Hewitt was one of the foremost iron founders and steel

manufacturers of the country. At the time of our Civil War our

government was very short of guns, and we were unable to manufacture

them because we did not know the secret of gun-metal.

The government sent Mr. Hewitt abroad to purchase guns. The English

gunmakers at once saw the trouble he was in and took advantage

of it. They demanded prices several times greater than they were

asking from other customers, and refused to give him any information

about the manufacture of gun-metal.

After he had made the contract, with all its exorbitant conditions,

he went to his hotel and invited the foreman of each department

of the factory to meet him. They all came. Mr. Hewitt explained

to them his mission, and found that they were sympathetic with

Mr. Lincoln and his administration and the Union cause. Then he

told them of the trouble he had had with their employers, and the

hard terms which they had imposed. He asked them then all about

the manufacture of gun-metal. Each one of the foremen was very

clear and explicit as to his part, and so when they had all spoken,

Mr. Hewitt, with his expert knowledge of the business, knew all

the secrets of the manufacture of gun-metal, which he, of course,

gave to the government at Washington for use in their several

arsenals and shops.

"Now," he said to his guests, "you have done me a great favor.

I will return it. Your company is obliged by the contract to

deliver this immense order within a limited time. They are going

to make an enormous amount of money out of it. You strike and

demand what you think is right, and you will get it immediately."

The gun company made a huge profit but had to share some of it

with their workers. It was an early instance of the introduction

of profit-sharing, which has now become common all over the world.

One of the most interesting Englishmen, whom I saw much of both

in London and in the United States, was Sir Henry Irving. The world

of art, drama, and history owes much to him for his revival of

Shakespeare. Irving was a genius in his profession, and in private

life perfectly delightful.

He gave me a dinner and it was, like everything he did, original.

Instead of the usual formal entertainment, he had the dinner at

one of the old royal castles in the country, which had become a

very exclusive hotel. He carried us out there in coaches.

The company of authors, playwrights, and men of affairs made the

entertainment late and the evening memorable. Returning home

on the top of the coach, the full moon would appear and reappear,

but was generally under a cloud. Irving remarked: "I do much

better with that old moon in my theatre. I make it shine or

obscure it with clouds, as the occasion requires."

I received a note from him at the time of his last visit to the

United States, in which he said that a friend from the western part

of the country was giving him a dinner at Delmonico's to precede

his sailing in the early morning on his voyage home. The company

was to be large and all good friends, and he had the positive

assurance that there would be no speaking, and wished I would come.

The dinner was everything that could be desired. The company was

a wonderful one of distinguished representatives of American life.

The hours passed along rapidly and joyously, as many of these

original men contributed story, racy adventure, or song.

Suddenly the host arose and said: "Gentlemen, we have with us

to-night--" Of course, that meant an introductory speech about

Irving and a reply from the guest. Irving turned to me, and in

his deepest and most tragic Macbeth voice said: "God damn his

soul to hell!" However, he rose to the occasion, and an hour or

so afterwards, when everybody else had spoken, not satisfied with

his first effort, he arose and made a much better and longer

speech. He was an admirable after-dinner speaker as well as

an unusual actor. His wonderful presentations, not only of

Shakespeare's but of other dramas, did very much for the stage

both in his own country and in ours.

Those who heard him only in his last year had no conception of

him in his prime. In his later years he fell into the fault, so

common with public speakers and actors, of running words together

and failing to articulate clearly. I have known a fine speech and

a superior sermon and a great part in a play ruined because of

the failure to articulate clearly. The audience could not follow

the speaker and so lost interest.

Sir Henry told me a delightful story about Disraeli. A young

relative of Irving's took orders and became a clergyman in the

Established Church. At the request of Irving, Disraeli appointed

this young man one of the curates at Windsor.

One day the clergyman came to Irving in great distress and said:

"The unexpected has happened. Every one has dropped out, and

I have been ordered to preach on Sunday."

Irving took him to see Disraeli for advice. The prime minister

said to the young clergyman: "If you preach thirty minutes,

Her Majesty will be bored. If you preach fifteen minutes,

Her Majesty will be pleased. If you preach ten minutes, Her Majesty

will be delighted."

"But," said the young clergyman, "my lord, what can a preacher

possibly say in only ten minutes?"

"That," answered the statesman, "will be a matter of indifference

to Her Majesty."

Sir Frederick Leighton, the eminent English artist, and at one time

president of the Royal Academy, was one of the most charming men

of his time. His reminiscences were delightful and told with rare

dramatic effect. I remember a vivid description which he gave me

of the wedding of one of the British royalties with a German

princess. Sir Frederick was one of the large and distinguished

delegation which accompanied the prince.

The principality of the bride's father had been shorn of territory,

power, and revenue during the centuries. Nevertheless, at the

time of the wedding he maintained a ministry, the same as in the

Middle Ages, and a miniature army. Palaces, built centuries

before, housed the Cabinet.

The minister of foreign affairs came to Sir Frederick and unbosomed

himself of his troubles. He said: "According to the usual

procedure I ought to give a ball in honor of the union of our house

with the royal family of England. My palace is large enough, but

my salary is only eight hundred a year, and the expense would eat

up the whole of it."

Sir Frederick said: "Your Excellency can overcome the difficulty

in an original way. The state band can furnish the music, and

that will cost nothing. When the time comes for the banquet,

usher the guests with due ceremony to a repast of beer and pretzels."

The minister followed the instructions. The whole party appreciated

the situation, and the minister was accredited with the most

brilliant and successful ball the old capital had known for a century.

For several years one of the most interesting men in Europe was

the Duke d'Aumale, son of Louis Philippe. He was a statesman

and a soldier of ability and a social factor of the first rank.

He alone of the French royalty was relieved from the decree of

perpetual banishment and permitted to return to France and enjoy

his estates. In recognition of this he gave his famous chateau

and property at Chantilly to the French Academy. The gift was

valued at ten millions of dollars. In the chateau at Chantilly

is a wonderful collection of works of art.

I remember at one dinner, where the duke was the guest of honor,

those present, including the host, were mostly new creations in

the British peerage. After the conversation had continued for

some time upon the fact that a majority of the House of Lords had

been raised to the peerage during the reign of Queen Victoria,

those present began to try and prove that on account of their

ancient lineage they were exempt from the rule of parvenu peers.

The duke was very tolerant with this discussion and, as always,

the soul of politeness.

The host said: "Your Royal Highness, could you oblige us with

a sketch of your ancestry?"

"Oh, certainly," answered the duke; "it is very brief. My family,

the Philippes, are descendants from AEneas of Troy, and AEneas

was the son of Venus." The mushrooms seemed smaller than even

the garden variety.

The duke was talking to me at one time very interestingly about the

visit of his father to America. At the time of the French Revolution

his father had to flee for his life and came to the United States.

He was entertained at Mount Vernon by Washington. He told me

that after his father became King of France, he would often

hesitate, or refuse to do something or write something which his

ministers desired. The king's answer always was: "When I visited

that greatest man of all the world, General Washington, at his

home, I asked him at one time: 'General, is it not possible that

in your long and wonderful career as a soldier and statesman that

you have made mistakes?' The general answered: 'I have never

done anything which I cared to recall or said anything which I would

not repeat,' and the king would say: 'I cannot do that or sign

that, because if I do I cannot say for myself what General Washington

said of himself.'"

The duke asked me to spend a week-end with him at Chantilly, and

it is one of the regrets of my life that I was unable to accept.

I happened to be in London on two successive Sundays. On the first

I went to Westminster Abbey to hear Canon Farrar preach. The

sermon was worthy of its wonderful setting. Westminster Abbey is

one of the most inspiring edifices in the world. The orator has to

reach a high plane to be worthy of its pulpit. I have heard many

dull discourses there because the surroundings refuse to harmonize

with mediocrity. The sermon of Canon Farrar was classic. It

could easily have taken a place among the gems of English

literature. It seemed to me to meet whatever criticism the eminent

dead, buried in that old mausoleum, might have of these modern

utterances. I left the Abbey spiritually and mentally elated.

The next Sunday I went to hear Charles Spurgeon. It was a wonderful

contrast. Spurgeon's Metropolitan Tabernacle was a very plain

structure of immense proportions but with admirable acoustics.

There was none of the historic enshrining the church, which is

the glory of Westminster Abbey, no church vestments or ceremonials.

Mr. Spurgeon, a plain, stocky-looking man, came out on the platform

dressed in an ordinary garb of black coat, vest, and trousers.

It was a vast audience of what might be called middle-class people.

Mr. Spurgeon's sermon was a plain, direct, and exceedingly forcible

appeal to their judgment and emotions. There was no attempt at

rhetoric, but hard, hammerlike blows. As he rose in his indignation

and denunciation of some current evils, and illustrated his

argument with the Old Testament examples of the punishment of

sinners, the audience became greatly excited. One of the officers

of the church, in whose pew I sat, groaned aloud and gripped his

hands so that the nails left their mark. Others around him were

in the same frame of mind and spirit.

I saw there and then that the men who fought with Cromwell and won

the battle of Naseby had in modern England plenty of descendants.

They had changed only in outward deference to modern usages and

conditions. If there had been occasion, Mr. Spurgeon could have

led them for any sacrifice to what they believed to be right.

I felt the power of that suppressed feeling--I would not say

fanaticism, but intense conscientiousness--which occasionally

in elections greatly surprises English politicians.

Canon Farrar's sermon easily takes its place among the selected

books of the library. Spurgeon's address was straight from the

shoulder, blow for blow, for the needs of the hour.

One of the novel incidents of the generous hospitality which I

enjoyed every year in London was a dinner at the Athenaeum Club

given to me by one of the members of the government at that time.

He was a gentleman of high rank and political importance. There

were twenty-six at the dinner, and it was a representative gathering.

At the conclusion our host made a very cordial speech on more

intimate relations between the United States and Great Britain,

and then in a complimentary phrase introduced me, saying: "I hope

you will speak freely and without limit."

I was encouraged by a most sympathetic audience and had a good

time during my effort. No one else was called upon. My host was

complimentary and said: "Your speech was so satisfactory that

I thought best not to have any more."

Some time afterwards he said to me: "Many of my friends had heard

of you but never heard you, so I made up my mind to give them

the opportunity, and what was really a purely social affair for

every other guest, I turned into an international occasion just

to draw you out. However, the fraud, if it was a fraud, was an

eminent success."

No one in England did more for Americans than Sir Henry Lucy.

Every American knew all about him, because of his reputation, and

particularly because he was the author of that most interesting

column in Punch called the "Essence of Parliament."

At his luncheons he gathered eminent men in public life and in

the literary and journalistic activities of Great Britain. These

luncheons were most informal, and under the hospitable genius

of Lucy the guests became on intimate terms. There was no table

in London where so many racy stories and sometimes valuable

historical reminiscences could be heard.

To be a guest at one of Sir Lucy's luncheons was for an American

to meet on familiar terms with distinguished men whom he knew all

about and was most anxious to see and hear.

At a large dinner I had a pleasant encounter with Sir Henry.

In order to meet another engagement, he tried to slip quietly

out while I was speaking. I caught sight of his retreating figure

and called loudly the refrain of the familiar song, "Linger longer,

Lucy." The shout of the crowd brought Sir Henry back, and the

other entertainment lost a guest.

In several of my visits to London I went to see not only places

of interest but also houses and streets made famous in English

literature. In one of my many trips to St. Paul's Cathedral I was

looking at the tomb of the Duke of Wellington in the crypt and

also at the modest tomb of Cruikshank, the artist, near by.

The superintendent asked me who I was and many questions about

America, and then said: "Many Americans come here, but the most

remarkable of them all was Colonel Robert G. Ingersoll. He was

very inquisitive and wanted to know all about Wellington's tomb.

I told him that the duke's body was first put in a wooden coffin,

and this was incased in steel; that this had made for it a position

in a stone weighing twenty tons and over that was a huge stone

weighing forty tons. He gave me a slap on the back which sent

me flying quite a distance and exclaimed: 'Old man, you have

got him safe. If he ever escapes cable at my expense to

Robert G. Ingersoll, Peoria, Illinois, U. S. A.'"

I had an opportunity to know that the war by Germany against France

and England was a surprise to both countries. While in London

during part of June, 1914, I met Cabinet ministers and members

of Parliament, and their whole thought and anxiety were concentrated

on the threatened revolution in Ireland.

The Cabinet had asked the king to intervene and he had called

representatives of all parties to meet him at Buckingham Palace.

After many consultations he declared settlement or compromise were

impossible. The situation was so critical that it absorbed the

attention of the government, the press, and the public.

About the first of July I was in Paris and found the French worried

about their finances and the increase in their military expenses

which were reaching threatening figures. The syndicate of French

bankers were seriously alarmed. There was no suspicion of German

purpose and preparations for attack.

While in Geneva a few weeks afterwards I became alarmed by letters

from relatives in Germany who were socially intimate with people

holding very important positions in the government and the army,

and their apprehensions from what their German friends told them

and what they saw led to their joining us in Switzerland.

One day the Swiss refused to take foreign money or to make exchange

for Swiss, or to cash letters of credit or bank checks. I immediately

concluded that the Swiss bankers knew of or suspected Germany's

hostile intentions, and with only two hours, and two families

with their trunks to pack, we managed to reach and secure

accommodations on the regular train for Paris. There was nothing

unusual either at the railroad station or in the city.

One of the amusing incidents which are my life-preservers occurred

at the station. Two elderly English spinsters were excitedly

discussing the currency trouble. One of them smoothed out a bank

of England note and said to her sister: "There, Sarah, is a bank

of England note which has been good as gold all over the world

since Christ came to earth, and these Swiss pigs won't take it."

I told this incident afterwards to a banker in London. He said

they were very ignorant women, there were no bank of England notes

at that time.

German hostility developed so rapidly that our train was the last

which left Switzerland for France for nearly two months. We were

due in Paris at ten o'clock in the evening, but did not arrive until

the next morning because of the mobilization of French recruits.

The excitement in Paris was intense. A French statesman said

to me: "We are doing our best to avoid war. Our troops are kept

ten kilometres from the frontier, but the Germans have crossed

and seized strategic points. They will hear nothing and accept

nothing and are determined to crush us if they can."

From all ranks of the people was heard: "We will fight to the

last man, but we are outnumbered and will be destroyed unless

England helps. Will England help? Will England help?" I have

been through several crises but never witnessed nor felt such

a reaction to ecstatic joy as occurred when Great Britain joined

France.

The restrictions on leaving Paris required time, patience, and

all the resources of our Embassy to get us out of France. The

helpfulness, resourcefulness, and untiring efforts of our Ambassador,

Myron T. Herrick, won the gratitude of all Americans whom the war

had interned on the continent and who must get home.

There was a remarkable change in England. When we left in July

there was almost hysteria over the threatening civil war. In October

the people were calm though involved in the greatest war in their

history. They did not minimize the magnitude of the struggle, or

the sacrifices it would require. There was a characteristic grim

determination to see the crisis through, regardless of cost.

Cabinet ministers whom I met thought the war would last three years.

The constant appeal to me, as to other Americans, was, "When will

you join us? If we fail it is your turn next. It is autocracy and

militarism against civilization, liberty, and representative

government for the whole world."

We had a perilous and anxious voyage home and found few grasping

the situation or working to be prepared for the inevitable, except

Theodore Roosevelt and General Wood.

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