XLVII

LUCERNE—GOOD SAMARITANS AND AN ENGLISHMAN—A LECTURE

TOUR—OHIOAN HOSPITALITY—MR. AND MRS. McKINLEY

OUR homeward journey was performed in a delicious, leisurely fashion.

We had worked hard for three months, collecting material for our

prospective books. Once and again, when we would fain have had heart

and imagination free to take in, at their full value, associations

connected with, and emotions excited by, this or that sacred spot—did

we remind ourselves of the plaint of the poet, who could never give

himself up to the enjoyment of nature, because he saw, stamped upon sea

and sky, mountain and river, in huge capitals—“MATERIAL.” Neither of us

meant to write up Egypt, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, and the British

Isles. With very much the joyous sense of relief with which children

scamper home, when school is out, we roamed and lingered to our hearts’

content for the ten weeks that were left of our vacation. We fell in

with congenial travelling companions in Egypt, joining parties for the

run through Greece and Lower Italy. In Florence, we were reunited to

friends with whom we had crossed the ocean, and did not part from them

until, in Lucerne, they were summoned to Paris, while we planned a stay

of some days in romantic regions endeared to us by former experiences,

when the “Boy” of _Loitering in Pleasant Paths_ was too young to

appreciate the grandeur of mountain passes, snow-capped heights, azure

lakes, and historic cantons.

Anticipation received a cruel blow in the beautiful lakeside city in

which we had passed the heart of a memorable summer, fifteen years

before. My son was stricken down with appendicitis in Lucerne, and

I knew not a human creature beside himself in all Switzerland! By

rare good-fortune, I recalled the name of a physician with whom my

husband had become acquainted in our former stay here, and sent for

him at once. He had retired from the active duties of his profession,

resigning his practice to his son, who was, I learned, at the head of

the hospital in Lucerne.

To my infinite relief, he informed me that there would be no need of an

operation unless more serious symptoms should intervene. I subjoin the

addenda to the verdict for the benefit of those whom it may concern:

“You Americans are too fond of the knife! It is not always necessary to

cut out an inflamed appendix. In my hospital we have had four hundred

cases of appendicitis within the last ten years, and have operated just

forty times! The patients recovered without the use of the knife.”

If I had ever leaned, never so slightly, to misanthropic judgment of my

fellow-mortals, I must have been shamed out of them by the incidents

of the next fortnight of cruel anxiety, and what would have been

unutterable loneliness but for the exceeding and abounding charity of

the strangers by whom I was surrounded.

“It is my opinion,” pronounced the patient, when, on Easter morning,

his chamber was fragrant with flowers and brightened by cards

and messages of cheer and sympathy—“my decided and well-grounded

conviction—that this Canton is peopled by the posterity of the Good

Samaritan. Even the innkeeper has taken a hand in the mission to the

traveller on the Jericho Road!”

The last remark was drawn out by the opening of a great box of violets,

richly purple, and so freshly gathered that the odor floated into the

air, like clouds of incense, with the lifting of the cover.

And, as a sudden thought struck him: “Have the blasted Britishers

spoken yet?”

“No! Their conversation is confined to their own party.”

I had brought the like report every day for a week. “The blasted

Britishers,” for whom he had no milder name, were a young man, his

wife, and sister, who were at the end of my table and my nearest

neighbors. The hotel was very full. A fair sprinkling of Americans,

a few English, and a mixture of French, Swiss, Germans, and Italians

made up a crowd that changed daily in some of its features. From the

proprietor down to the porter, there was not an employé or official

connected with the house who did not inquire, whenever I showed myself

in hall or _salle à manger_, “how the young gentleman was getting on?”

and express the hope of his early recovery. The entire working-staff of

the Hotel de Cygne was at our feet, and the guests in the house were

assiduous in offers of assistance and assurances of sympathy. Strangers

inquired across the table as to the patient’s condition, and if there

were any way in which they could be of service. The “B. B.’s”—as

the object of this kindly solicitude contemptuously abbreviated the

appellation—held aloof, apparently ignorant of my existence, much less

of the cause of inquiry and response. They chatted together pleasantly,

in subdued, refined tones betokening the gentle-folk they were, but,

for all the sign they gave of consciousness of the existence of the

afflicted Americans, they might have been—to quote again from the

indignant youth above-stairs—“priest and Levite, rolled into one mass

of incarnate selfishness.”

So matters went on until next to the last day we spent in Lucerne.

My patient was on his feet in his room, and had been down-stairs

twice to drive for an hour, and test his strength for the journey to

Paris, which he was impatient to begin. I had heard that there was a

sleeping-car—a “_wagon-au-lit_,” as the Swiss put it—upon one train

each day. This I wished to take, if possible, and to break the journey

by stopping overnight at least once, in the transit of fifteen hours

that separated us from the French capital. It so chanced that the talk

of the “B. B.’s” at luncheon that day turned upon this train, and,

forgetful, for the moment, of their discourteous reserve, I addressed

the man of the party with—“Pardon me! but can you tell me at what hour

that train leaves Lucerne, and when it reaches Basle?”

“With great pleasure!” turning an eager face upon me. “But may I

ask, first, how your son is to-day? We have inquired constantly of

the proprietor, and of the doctor, when we could see him, how he was

getting on. We were delighted to hear that he is improving, etc., etc.,

etcetera”—while I was getting my breath, and rallying my fluttered

wits. With this preamble, he proceeded to tell me all he knew of

trains that were likely to be of service, volunteering to make direct

inquiries at the station that afternoon, and begging to know in what

way he could forward my purpose.

When I could escape, I carried a bewildered face and soul up to the

convalescent.

Then it was that I made the remark I quoted in a former chapter,

apropos of New England “incommunicableness”:

“The ice is broken, and there is warm water under it!”

We had not finished discussing the idiosyncrasies of Old and New

England when, half an hour later, there came a gentle tap at the door.

I opened it, and nearly swooned with an access of amazement when I saw

the young Englishman.

He had a paper in his hand, and began without preface:

“I have made so bold as to look up the trains, don’t you know? And—oh,

I say”—breaking off as he espied the figure on the lounge through the

half-opened door—“mayn’t I come in and see him? We are both young men,

you know!”

He was at the sofa by this time, and shaking hands with the occupant.

“Awfully glad to see you are doing so well! Oh, by Jove!” interrupting

himself anew, with the frank boyishness that had marked his entrance.

“I believe you are taller than I!”

He surveyed the recumbent figure with undisguised admiration.

“Six feet, two-and-a-half, gymnasium measure!” rejoined the other,

laughing.

It was impossible to resist the cordial _bonhommie_ of the self-invited

guest.

“And I six, three!” complacently. “But a fellow looks longer when he is

on his back. May I sit down?” drawing up a chair for me, and one for

himself. “And would it tire you to talk a bit about routes and so on?

Do you think you are really fit for the jaunt?”

The “bit” of talk lasted an hour, and the invalid brightened with every

minute. The “Britisher” was an army man, at home on leave, after ten

years in India. He had travelled far and used all his senses while _en

route_. He was eloquent in praise of India, and so diligently was the

time improved by both the young men that, in leaving, the elder exacted

a promise that, when the other should visit India, he would apply to

him—the “B. B.”—for letters of introduction to “some fellows” who might

be of use to him. He gave us his card, lest he might not see us again.

It bore the name of a fashionable London hotel, at which he “hoped to

see” his new acquaintance, since he was going to London within the

month. He did see us again, calling on the morrow to ask if there were

anything he could do to facilitate our departure. He brought, also,

the compliments and good wishes of his wife and sister for our safe

journey. The schedule of travel he had arranged for us was so carefully

drawn up that a fool could not err therein.

We never saw or heard from him again. It was not convenient for Bert

to call during the brief stay we made in London, on the very eve of

sailing for home. And we have never yet been to India. The “B. B.”

seemed not to be able to conceive the possibility that any one who

could get to that end of the earth could refrain from going.

I have seen enough of the English since to comprehend that this was

not a phenomenal illustration of native reserve, that waits for the

initiative from the other party to the meeting, and, like the traveller

in the fable of the contest between the wind and sun, throws away the

cloak of strangerhood as soon as the first step is taken by another. I

have heard other anecdotes descriptive of a characteristic which belies

the depth and warmth of the underlying heart, but none that bring it

more prominently into view. It is strange—and interesting—to us of a

more emotional race, to see the sudden leap of the unsealed fountain.

During the summer and autumn succeeding our return to America, I

utilized much of the “material” collected in the East in a series of

lectures delivered in seven different States. For two summers preceding

my tour abroad, I had, in conjunction with Mrs. Margaret E. Sangster,

conducted what we called “Women’s Councils”, in various Summer Schools

modelled upon the famous Chautauquan Assemblies. I had hardly settled

in the peaceful home-nest when applications from similar organizations

began to arrive. Upon former expeditions, my husband, and sometimes

our son, and Mrs. Sangster’s nephew, Bert’s classmate and chum, had

accompanied us, and when the “Council” adjourned, we made up a jolly

party to Mackinac Island (in which beautiful spot I laid the scene of

_With the Best Intentions_), to Niagara Falls, the Adirondacks, and

divers other summer resorts. Mrs. Sangster had no share in my present

lecture engagements, and neither my husband nor son could spare the

time to accompany me. In the comparatively secluded and carefully

sheltered life of to-day, I marvel at the courage that enabled me to

journey for thousands of miles, unattended, and to face audiences

that numbered from one to two thousand women, with never a misgiving

as to my reception, and perfect security from annoyance. Wherever I

went, doors and hearts were opened to me. But once, in a series that

comprised twenty towns and villages, was I ever allowed to stay at

a hotel, and that was for a single night. The friends made then are

cherished to this hour.

Time would fail me and the patience of the reader be exhausted, were

I to attempt even a catalogue of the localities in which I talked, as

woman to woman, of what I had seen and heard in those seven months

of wandering and study. If I had never loved women before, and held

in especial and tender regard those of my own country, I must have

learned the sweet lesson in the unescorted itineraries from Syracuse,

N.Y., to Chicago; from Vermont to Michigan; from Richmond, Va., to

Cincinnati. And in all the thousands of miles, and in the intercourse

with tens of thousands of people whose faces I had never seen before, I

had, in the three lecture seasons in which I took part, not one unkind

word—received nothing but kindness, and that continually. Hospitality

and brotherly (and sisterly) love have had new and deeper meaning to

me, ever since. I permit myself the recital of two “happenings” in

Ohio, that have historic interest in consideration of subsequent events.

After fulfilling a delightful engagement at Monona Lake—near Madison,

Wisconsin—I set out for Lakeview, Ohio, where I was to hold a Women’s

Council for the next week, beginning Monday. This was Saturday noon,

and I was to travel all night. Dr. T. De Witt Talmage, whom I had seen

at Monona Lake, had told me of a branch road connecting the station,

at which I was to leave the main line, early Sunday morning, with

Lakeview. I would reach that place, he said, by seven o’clock, and have

a quiet Sunday to myself. This was preferable to passing it in Chicago

or any other large town. In the Madison station I was so fortunate

as to meet Mr. Hamilton W. Mabie and Dr. Francis Maurice Egan, at

that time Professor of English Literature in the Georgetown (R. C.)

University, and, subsequently, United States Minister to Denmark. Both

of these distinguished men had been lecturing at Monona Lake Assembly.

The rest of the day passed swiftly and brightly. Mr. Mabie left us in

Chicago, where we were detained until midnight, on account of some

delay in incoming trains. Doctor Egan, whose spirits never flagged,

proposed a walk through the illuminated streets, and a supper together,

which “lark” we enjoyed with the zest of two school-children. Then we

returned to the waiting train, and bade each other “Good-bye.”

The journey had begun so auspiciously that I alighted from the sleeper

in the early dawn, feeling, what the sporting Englishman would call

“uncommonly fit,” and with no prevision of what lay before me.

For not a symptom of the promised branch line was to be seen, as far as

eye could reach. There were two houses at the terminus of my railway

journey. One was the usual station and freight-house; the other, a

neat cottage a stone’s-throw away, was, I found, the dwelling of the

station-agent. He was the one and only human thing in sight. Beyond lay

woods and cultivated fields.

The man was very civil, but positive in the declaration that the branch

line connecting with the Assembly grounds was ten miles further

on; also, that no trains ran over it on Sunday. As at Monona Lake,

admission was denied to the public on that day. Otherwise, the ground

would be overrun by the rabble of curious sight-seers. There was no

hotel within five miles, and no conveyance to take me to it, or to

Lakeview.

The predicament was serious, yet it provoked me to mirth. Doctor

Talmage’s directions to alight at this particular point (as he “had

done not a week ago”); my cheerful confidence that the day would be as

yesterday, if not more abundant in enjoyment; the immediate prospect of

starvation and discomfort, since all the accommodations I could command

were that one room of the country station—made up a picture at which

any woman must laugh—or cry. The station-master looked relieved that I

did not weep, or whine. When I laughed, he smiled sympathetically:

“If you will sit here for a few minutes,” leading the way into the room

behind us, “I’ll step over and talk to my wife.”

From that moment I had no apprehension of further misadventures.

If I had indulged a fleeting misgiving, it would have been dissipated

by the sight of the woman to whom I was introduced when I had accepted

the invitation to “step over” to the neat cottage a few rods down the

road.

It was a veritable cottage—low-browed and cosey, vine-draped, and

simply but comfortably furnished. The mistress met me in the door with

a cordial welcome, and took me into her bedroom to wash away the dust

of travel and lay off my hat. For I was to breakfast with them, after

which her husband would get up the horse and buggy, and she would drive

me over to the Assembly grounds. She looked, moved, and spoke like a

gentlewoman. Against the background of my late predicament, she wore

the guise of a ministering angel. The breakfast was just what she

had prepared for her husband. She proved the quality of her breeding

there, too, in not lisping a syllable of apology. None was required

for a meal so well-cooked and served, but few women would have let the

occasion pass of informing the stranger within their gates how much

better they might have done had they been notified of the coming of

“company.” On the road she told me that she had a season-ticket for

the Summer School, and that she had attended the sessions regularly

during the week that had passed since it opened. She was a pretty

little body, becomingly attired, and intelligent beyond her apparent

station. I was to learn more in time of the minds and manners of the

average Ohio woman and man, and to be moved to wondering admiration

thereby. The road, level as a floor for most of the way, lay between

fields, orchards and vineyards so well cultivated that they recalled

the husbandry of older lands. My companion was _au fait_ to the

agricultural interests of her native State, and descanted upon the

resources of the region with modest complacency. The weather was

delicious, the drive a pleasure. Not until we were in sight of the

lake, on the shores of which the camp was located, did she suggest

the possible difficulty of gaining admission to the grounds. She had

her ticket, which would pass her on Sunday, as on week-days. Perhaps

I had one? I said, “No,” frankly. Were the rules very strict? She was

“afraid they were.” It was evident that she had wholesome respect for

the regulation barring out unlicensed intruders. My credentials, in the

form of letters and contract, were in the trunk the station-master had

engaged to send over on Monday. Up to this moment I was an anonymous

wayfarer to my hosts, and I did not care to owe their hospitality to

any prestige that might attach to an advertised name. So I said we

would postpone uneasiness until I was actually refused admittance

by the gate-keeper. When he halted us, my companion produced her

passport, and I offered, as warrant of my eligibility, to send for

Doctor Lewis, the superintendent of the Assembly, to vouch for me. He

gave me a searching glance, and stood back to let us pass.

I recognized my guardian angel in my audience on Monday, and made it my

business and pleasure to seek her out at the conclusion of the lecture.

“We made up our minds last night, as we were talking it over, who you

were,” she remarked, quietly. “I had my list of the speakers, and you

were set down for to-day. I wished, then, that I had guessed the truth

before.”

I did not echo the wish. My first taste of Ohio hospitality would have

lost the fine flavor that lingers in my memory, like the aroma of old

Falernian wine. A duchess of high degree might have taken lessons in

breeding and Christian charity from the station-keeper’s wife.

During the week spent at Lakeview I had an opportunity, which I prize

now beyond expression, of meeting Mr. McKinley, then the Governor of

Ohio. He passed a day at the principal hotel of the place with his

wife, and visited the Assembly. I was invited, with other visitors, to

dine with him, and afterward to drive into the country with himself and

Mrs. McKinley.

“The future President of the United States!” a friend had said to me

when I told her of the projected drive.

“I don’t think so,” was my answer. “But a good man and an honest

politician.”

As he lifted his invalid wife into the carriage, a packet of letters

was handed to me.

In taking his place on the front seat he begged me to open them:

“Home letters should never be kept waiting.”

“I will avail myself of your kind permission so far as to look into

one,” I answered. “It is the daily bulletin from my husband. A glance

at the first paragraph will tell me how matters are at home.”

“A daily bulletin!” repeated Mr. McKinley, as I refolded the epistle

after the satisfactory glance.

“Yes—and we have been married nearly forty years!”

“A commendable example—” he began, when his wife caught him up:

“Which he does not need! He never fails to write to me every day when

he is away; but when he was in Washington, some years ago, and I was

not well enough to go with him, he telegraphed every morning to know

how I was, besides writing a long letter to me in the afternoon.”

Laughingly putting the remark aside, he leaned forward to direct my

attention to a row of hills on the horizon, and to talk of certain

historical associations connected with that part of the State. She

resumed the topic, awhile later, descanting in a low tone upon his

unwearied regard for her health, his tender solicitude, his skill as

a nurse, and similar themes, drawn on by my unfeigned interest in the

story, until he checked her, with the same light laugh:

“Ida, my dear! you are making Mrs. Terhune lose the finest points in

the landscape we brought her out to admire.”

“Permit me to remind you that there are moral beauties better worth my

attention,” retorted I.

He lifted his hat, with a bright look that went from my face to

dwell upon that of the fragile woman opposite him, with affectionate

appreciation, and full confidence that I would comprehend the feeling

that led her to praise him—a flashing smile, I despair of describing as

it deserves. It transfigured his face into beauty I can never forget.

In all my thoughts of the man who became the idol of his compatriots,

dying, like a martyr-hero, with a plea for mercy for the insane

assassin upon his lips, I recur to that incident in my brief personal

acquaintanceship with him, as a revelation of what was purest and

sweetest in a nature singularly strong and gentle.

In relating the little by-play to my dear friend, Mrs. Waite, the widow

of the Chief-Justice, then living in Washington, I said that it was a

pity to see a man in Mr. McKinley’s exalted and responsible position

tied to the arm-chair of a hopeless invalid, who could contribute

nothing to his usefulness in any relation of life.

“He owes more to her than the public will ever suspect,” was the reply.

“We knew him from a boy, and watched his early struggles upward. His

wife was his guiding star, his right hand. She was, then, a woman of

unusual personal and mental gifts, more ambitious for him than he

was for himself. My husband often said that she was Mr. McKinley’s

inspiration. Those who have never known her except as the fragile,

nerveless creature she is now, cannot imagine what she was before the

deaths of her children and her terrible illness left her the wreck you

see. But _he_ does not forget what she was, and what she did for him.”

I treasured the tribute gratefully, and I never failed to

quote it when I heard—as was frequent during Mr. McKinley’s

administration—contemptuous criticism of the helpless, sickly woman—the

poor shade of the First Lady of the Land—whose demands upon his time

and care were unremittent and heavy. He was held up to the world by his

eulogists as a Model Husband, a Knight of To-day, whose devotion never

wavered. As my now sainted mentor said, few of the admiring multitude

guessed at his debt of gratitude and at his chivalrous remembrance of

the same.