AN UNLUCKY SHIP. THE DAYS WHEN WE WENT GIPSYING. INAMBANE. QUILP THE
PILOT AND LAMOO.
It might have been that our vessel was launched on a Friday, or sailed
on a Friday; or whether it was owing to our carrying the devil on board
of us in shape of a big jet-black cat, and for whom the lifebuoy was
thrice let go, and boats lowered in order to save his infernal majesty
from a watery grave; but whatever was the reason, she was certainly a
most unlucky ship from first to last; for during a cruise of eighteen
months, four times did we run aground on dangerous reefs, twice were we
on fire--once having had to scuttle the decks--once we sprung a bad leak
and were nearly foundering, several times we narrowly escaped the same
speedy termination to our cruise by being taken aback, while, compared
to our smaller dangers or lesser perils, Saint Paul's adventures--as a
Yankee would express it--wern't a circumstance.
On the other hand, we were amply repaid by the many beautiful spots we
visited; the lovely wooded creeks where the slave-dhows played at hide
and seek with us, and the natural harbours, at times surrounded by
scenery so sweetly beautiful and so charmingly solitary, that, if
fairies still linger on this earth, one must think they would choose
just such places as these for their moonlight revels. Then there were
so many little towns--Portuguese settlements--to be visited, for the
Portuguese have spread themselves, after the manner of wild
strawberries, all round the coast of Africa, from Sierra Leone on the
west to Zanzibar on the east. There was as much sameness about these
settlements as about our visits to them: a few houses--more like tents--
built on the sand (it does seem funny to see sofas, chairs, and the
piano itself standing among the deep soft sand); a fort, the guns of
which, if fired, would bring down the walls; a few white-jacketed
swarthy-looking soldiers; a very polite governor, brimful of hospitality
and broken English; and a good dinner, winding up with punch of
schnapps.
Memorable too are the pleasant boating excursions we had on the calm
bosom of the Indian Ocean. Armed boats used to be detached to cruise
for three or four weeks at a time in quest of prizes, at the end of
which time they were picked up at some place of rendezvous. By day we
sailed about the coast and around the small wooded islets, where dhows
might lurk, only landing in sheltered nooks to cook and eat our food.
Our provisions were ship's, but at times we drove great bargains with
the naked natives for fowls and eggs and goats; then would we make
delicious soups, rich ragouts, and curries fit for the king of the
Cannibal Islands. Fruit too we had in plenty, and the best of oysters
for the gathering, with iguana most succulent of lizards, occasionally
fried flying-fish, or delicate morsels of shark, skip-jack, or devilled
dolphin, with a glass of prime rum to wash the whole down, and three
grains of quinine to charm away the fever. There was, too, about these
expeditions, an air of gipsying that was quite pleasant. To be sure our
beds were a little hard, but we did not mind that; while clad in our
blanket-suits, and covered with a boat-sail, we could defy the dew.
Sleep, or rather the want of sleep, we seldom had to complain of, for
the blue star-lit sky above us, the gentle rising and falling of the
anchored boat, the lip-lipping of the water, and the sighing sound of
the wind through the great forest near us--all tended to woo us to
sweetest slumber.
Sometimes we would make long excursions up the rivers of Africa,
combining business with pleasure, enjoying the trip, and at the same
time gleaning some useful information regarding slave or slave-ship.
The following sketch concerning one or two of these may tend to show,
that a man does not take leave of all enjoyment, when his ship leaves
the chalky cliffs of old England.
Our anchor was dropped outside the bar of Inambane river; the grating
noise of the chain as it rattled through the hawse-hole awoke me, and I
soon after went on deck. It was just six o'clock and a beautiful clear
morning, with the sun rising red and rosy--like a portly gentleman
getting up from his wine--and smiling over the sea in quite a pleasant
sort of way. So, as both Neptune and Sol seemed propitious, the
commander, our second-master, and myself made up our minds to visit the
little town and fort of Inambane, about forty--we thought fifteen--miles
up the river. But breakfast had to be prepared and eaten, the magazine
and arms got into the boat, besides a day's provisions, with rum and
quinine to be stowed away, so that the sun had got a good way up the
sky, and now looked more like a portly gentleman whose dinner had
disagreed, before we had got fairly under way and left the ship's side.
Never was forenoon brighter or fairer, only one or two snowy banks of
cloud interrupting the blue of the sky, while the river, miles broad,
stole silently seaward, unruffled by wave or wavelet, so that the hearts
of both men and officers were light as the air they breathed was pure.
The men, bending cheerfully on their oars, sang snatches of Dibdin--
Neptune's poet laureate; and we, tired of talking, reclined astern,
gazing with half-shut eyes on the round undulating hills, that, covered
with low mangrove-trees and large exotics, formed the banks of the
river. We passed numerous small wooded islands and elevated sandbanks,
on the edges of which whole regiments of long-legged birds waded about
in search of food, or, starting at our approach, flew over our heads in
Indian file, their bright scarlet-and-white plumage showing prettily
against the blue of the sky. Shoals of turtle floated past, and
hundreds of rainbow-coloured jelly-fishes, while, farther off, many
large black bodies--the backs of hippopotami--moved on the surface of
the water, or anon disappeared with a sullen plash. Saving these sounds
and the dip of our own oars, all was still, the silence of the desert
reigned around us, the quiet of a newly created world.
The forenoon wore away, the river got narrower, but, though we could see
a distance of ten miles before us, neither life nor sign of life could
be perceived. At one o'clock we landed among a few cocoa-nut trees to
eat our meagre dinner, a little salt pork, raw, and a bit of biscuit.
No sooner had we "shoved off" again than the sky became overcast; we
were caught in, and had to pull against, a blinding white-squall that
would have laid a line-of-battle on her beam ends. The rain poured down
as if from a water-spout, almost filling the boat and drenching us to
the skin, and, not being able to see a yard ahead, our boat ran aground
and stuck fast. It took us a good hour after the squall was over to
drag her into deep water; nor were our misfortunes then at an end, for
squall succeeded squall, and, having a journey of uncertain length still
before us, we began to feel very miserable indeed.
It was long after four o'clock when, tired, wet, and hungry, we hailed
with joy a large white house on a wooded promontory; it was the
Governor's castle, and soon after we came in sight of the town itself.
Situated so far in the interior of Africa, in a region so wild, few
would have expected to find such a little paradise as we now beheld,--a
colony of industrious Portuguese, a large fort and a company of
soldiers, a governor and consulate, a town of nice little detached
cottages, with rows of cocoa-nut, mango, and orange trees, and in fact
all the necessaries, and luxuries of civilised life. It was, indeed, an
oasis in the desert, and, to us, the most pleasant of pleasant
surprises.
Leaving the men for a short time with the boat, we made our way to the
house of the consul, a dapper little gentleman with a pretty wife and
two beautiful daughters--flowers that had hitherto blushed unseen and
wasted their sweetness in the desert air.
Our welcome was most warm. After making us swallow a glass of brandy
each to keep off fever, he kindly led us to a room, and made us strip
off our wet garments, while a servant brought bundle after bundle of
clothes, and spread them out before us. There were socks and shirts and
slippers galore, with waistcoats, pantaloons, and head-dresses, and
jackets, enough to have dressed an opera troupe. The commander and I
furnished ourselves with a red Turkish fez and dark-grey dressing-gown
each, with cord and tassels to correspond, and, thus, arrayed, we
considered ourselves of no small account. Our kind entertainers were
waiting for us in the next room, where they had, in the mean time, been
preparing for us the most fragrant of brandy punch. By-and-bye two
officers and a tall Parsee dropped in, and for the next hour or so the
conversation was of the most animated and lively description, although a
bystander, had there been one, would not have been much edified, for the
following reason: the younger daughter and myself were flirting in the
ancient Latin language, with an occasional soft word in Spanish; our
commander was talking in bad French to the consul's lady, who was
replying in Portuguese; the second-master was maintaining a smart
discussion in broken Italian with the elder daughter; the Parsee and
officer of the fort chiming in, the former in English, the latter in
Hindostanee; but as no one of the four could have had the slightest idea
of the other's meaning, the amount of information given and received
must have been very small,--in fact, merely nominal. It must not,
however, be supposed that our host or hostesses could speak _no_
English, for the consul himself would frequently, and with a bow that
was inimitable, push the bottle towards the commander, and say, as he
shrugged his shoulders and turned his palms skywards, "Continue you, Sar
Capitan, to wet your whistle;" and, more than once, the fair creature by
my side would raise and did raise the glass to her lips, and say, as her
eyes sought mine, "Good night, Sar Officeer," as if she meant me to be
off to bed without a moment's delay, which I knew she did not. Then,
when I responded to the toast, and complimented her on her knowledge of
the "universal language," she added, with a pretty shake of the head,
"No, Sar Officeer, I no can have speak the mooch Englese." A servant,--
apparently newly out of prison, so closely was his hair cropped,--
interrupted our pleasant confab, and removed the seat of our Babel to
the dining-room, where as nicely-cooked-and-served a dinner as ever
delighted the senses of hungry mortality awaited our attention. No
large clumsy joints, huge misshapen roasts or bulky boils, hampered the
board; but dainty made-dishes, savoury stews, piquant curries, delicate
fricassees whose bouquet tempted even as their taste and flavour
stimulated the appetite, strange little fishes as graceful in shape as
lovely in colour, vegetables that only the rich luxuriance of an African
garden could supply, and numerous other nameless nothings, with
delicious wines and costly liqueurs, neatness, attention, and kindness,
combined to form our repast, and counteract a slight suspicion of
crocodiles' tails and stewed lizard, for where ignorance is bliss a
fellow is surely a fool if he is wise.
We spent a most pleasant evening in asking questions, spinning yarns,
singing songs, and making love. The younger daughter--sweet child of
the desert--sang `Amante de alguno;' her sister played a selection from
`La Traviata;' next, the consul's lady favoured us with something
pensive and sad, having reference, I think, to bright eyes, bleeding
hearts, love, and slow death; then, the Parsee chanted a Persian hymn
with an "Allalallala," instead of Fol-di-riddle-ido as a chorus, which
elicited "Fra poco a me" from the Portuguese lieutenant; and this last
caused our commander to seat himself at the piano, turn up the white of
his eyes, and in very lugubrious tones question the probability of
"Gentle Annie's" ever reappearing in any spring-time whatever; then,
amid so much musical sentimentality and woe, it was not likely that I
was to hold my peace, so I lifted up my voice and sang--
"Cauld kail in Aberdeen,
An' cas ticks in Strathbogie;
Ilka chiel maun hae a quean
Bit leeze me on ma cogie--"
with a pathos that caused the tears to trickle over and adown the nose
of the younger daughter--she was of the gushing temperament--and didn't
leave a dry eye in the room. The song brought down the house--so to
speak--and I was the hero for the rest of the evening. Before parting
for the night we also sang `Auld lang syne,' copies of the words having
been written out and distributed, to prevent mistakes; this was supposed
by our hostess to be the English national anthem.
It was with no small amount of regret that we parted from our friends
next day; a fresh breeze carried us down stream, and, except our running
aground once or twice, and being nearly drowned in crossing the bar, we
arrived safely on board our saucy gunboat.
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"Afric's sunny fountains" have been engaged for such a length of time in
the poetical employment of "rolling down their golden sands," that a
bank or bar of that same bright material has been formed at the mouth of
every river, which it is very difficult and often dangerous to cross
even in canoes. We had despatched boats before us to take soundings on
the bar of Lamoo, and prepared to follow in the track thus marked out.
Now, our little bark, although not warranted, like the Yankee boat, to
float wherever there is a heavy dew, was nevertheless content with a
very modest allowance of the aqueous element; in two and a half fathoms
she was quite at home, and even in two--with the help of a few
breakers--she never failed to bump it over a bar. We approached the bar
of Lamoo, therefore, with a certain degree of confidence till the keel
rasped on the sand; this caused us to turn astern till we rasped again;
then, being neither able to get back nor forward, we stopped ship, put
our fingers in our wise mouths, and tried to consider what next was to
be done. Just then a small canoe was observed coming bobbing over the
big waves that tumbled in on the bar; at one moment it was hidden behind
a breaker, next moment mounting over another, and so, after a little
game at bo-peep, it got alongside, and from it there scrambled on board
a little, little man, answering entirely to Dickens's description of
Quilp.
"Quilp!" said the commander.
"Quilp!! by George!" repeated our second-master.
"Quilp!!!" added I, "by all that's small and ugly."
"Your sarvant, sar," said Quilp himself. "I am one pilot." There
certainly was not enough of him to make two. He was rather darker in
skin than the Quilp of Dickens, and his only garment was a coal-sack
without sleeves--no coal-sack _has_ sleeves, however--begirt with a
rope, in which a short knife was stuck; he had, besides, sandals on his
feet, and his temples were begirt with a dirty dishclout by way of
turban, and he repeated, "I am one pilot, sar."
"Can you take us over the bar?" asked the commander.
"How much water you?"
"Three fathoms."
"I do it, sar, plenty quick."
"Twenty shillings if you do."
"I do it, sar. I do him," cried the little man, as he mounted the
bridge; then cocking his head to one side, and spreading out his arms
like a badly feathered duck, he added, "Suppose I no do him plenty
proper, you catchee me and make shot."
"If the vessel strikes, I'll hang you, sir."
Quilp grinned--which was his way of smiling.
"Up steam, sar!" he cried; the order was obeyed.
"Go 'head. Stabird a leetle."
"And a half three," sung the man in the chains; then, "And a half four;"
and by-and-bye, "And a half three" again; followed next moment by, "By
the deep three."
The commander was all in a fidget. We were on the dreaded bar; on each
side of us the big waves curled and broke with a sullen boom like
far-off thunder; only, where we were, no waves broke.
"Mind yourself now," cried the commander to Quilp; to which he in wrath
replied--
"What for you stand there make bobbery? _I_ is de cap'n; suppose you is
fear, go alow, sar."
"And a quarter less three."
"Steady!" and a large wave broke right aboard of us, almost sweeping us
from the deck, and lifting the ship's head into the sky. Another and
another followed; but amid the wet and the spray, and the roar of the
breakers, firmly stood the little pilot, coolly giving his orders, and
never for an instant taking his eyes from the vessel's jib-boom and the
distant shore, till we were safely through the surf and quietly steaming
up the river.
After proceeding some miles, native villages began to appear here and
there on both shores, and the great number of dhows on the river, with
boats and canoes of every description, told us we were nearing a large
town. Two hours afterwards we were anchored under the guns of the
Sultan's palace, which were belching forth fire and smoke in return for
the salute we had fired. We found every creature and thing in Lamoo as
entirely primitive, as absolutely foreign, as if it were a city in some
other planet. The most conspicuous building is the Sultan's lofty fort
and palace, with its spacious steps, its fountains and marble halls.
The streets are narrow and confused; the houses built in the Arab
fashion, and in many cases connected by bridges at the top; the
inhabitants about forty thousand, including Arabs, Persians, Hindoos,
Somali Indians, and slaves. The wells, exceedingly deep, are built in
the centre of the street without any protection; and girls, carrying on
their heads calabashes, are continually passing to and from them.
Slaves, two and two, bearing their burdens of cowries and ivory on poles
between, and keeping step to an impromptu chant; black girls weaving
mats and grass-cloth; strange-looking tradesmen, with stranger tools, at
every door; rich merchants borne along in gilded palanquins; people
praying on housetops; and the Sultan's ferocious soldiery prowling
about, with swords as tall, and guns nearly twice as tall, as
themselves; a large shark-market; a fine bazaar, with gold-dust, ivory,
and tiger-skins exposed for sale; sprightly horses with gaudy trappings;
solemn-looking camels; dust and stench and a general aroma of savage
life and customs pervading the atmosphere, but law and order
nevertheless. People of all religions agree like brothers. No
spirituous liquor of any sort is sold in the town; the Sultan's soldiers
go about the streets at night, smelling the breath of the suspected, and
the faintest odour of the accursed fire-water dooms the poor mortal to
fifty strokes with a thick bamboo-cane next morning. The sugar-cane
grows wild in the fertile suburbs, amid a perfect forest of fine trees;
farther out in the country the cottager dwells beneath his few cocoa-nut
trees, which supply him with all the necessaries of life. One tree for
each member of his family is enough. _He_ builds the house and fences
with its large leaves; his wife prepares meat and drink, cloth and oil,
from the nut; the space between the trees is cultivated for curry, and
the spare nuts are sold to purchase luxuries, and the rent of twelve
trees is only _sixpence_ of our money. Happy country! no drunkenness,
no debt, no religious strife, but peace and contentment everywhere!
Reader, if you are in trouble, or your affairs are going "to pot," or if
you are of opinion that this once favoured land is getting used up, I
sincerely advise you to sell off your goods and be off to Lamoo.