“Among those,” says Morales, “who then passed from Toledo to Asturias,

was the archbishop of Toledo, named Urban.—He, with a holy foresight,

collected the sacred relics which he could, and the most precious books

of his own church and of others, determining to carry them all to the

Asturias, in order that the holy relics might not be profaned or treated

with little reverence by the infidels; and that the books of the Holy

Scriptures, and of the ecclesiastical offices, and the works of our holy

doctors, might not be lost.—And although many relics are mentioned which

the archbishop then carried from Toledo, especial mention is made of a

holy ark full of many and most remarkable relics, which through divers

chances and dangers, had been brought from Jerusalem to Toledo, and of

which all that is fitting shall be related in its place, if it please

God that this history should proceed. It is also expressly said, that

the cope which Our Lady gave to St. Ildefonso, was then carried to the

Asturias with the other relics; and being so capital a relic, it was a

worthy thing to write of it thus particularly. Of the sacred books which

were saved at that time, there are specified the Holy Scriptures, the

Councils, the works of St. Isidore, and St. Ildefonso, and of St. Julian

the archbishop of Toledo. And as there is at this day in the church of

Oviedo that holy ark, together with many others of the relics which were

then removed, so do I verily believe that there are in the library of

that church three or four books of those which were then brought from

Toledo. I am led to this belief by seeing that they are written in a form

of Gothic letters, which being compared with writings six hundred years

old, are without doubt much older, and of characters so different, that

they may well be attributed to the times of the Goths. One is the volume

of the Councils, another is a _Santoral_, another contains the books

of St. Isidore _de Naturis Rerum_, with other works of other authors.

And there are also some leaves of a Bible.—To put these sacred relics

in greater security, and avoid the danger of the Moors, they hid them

in a cave, and in a sort of deep pit therein, two leagues from the city

of Oviedo, (which was not at that time built,) in a mountain, which was

for this reason called Montesacro. It is now by a slight corruption

called Monsagro; and the people of that country hold the cave in great

veneration, and a great romery, or pilgrimage, is made on St. Magdalen’s

day.”—_Morales_, l. 12. c. 71.

The place where the relics were deposited is curiously described in the

Romantic Chronicle. “He found that in this land of Asturias there was a

sierra, full great, and high, the which had only two entrances, after

this manner. On the one entrance there was a great river, which was to be

passed seven times, and in none of those seven places was it fordable at

any time, except in the month of July. And after the river had been crost

seven times, there was an ascent of a long league up a high mountain,

which is full of many great trees and great thickets, wherein are many

wild beasts, such as bears and boars and wolves, and there is a pass

there between two rocks, which ten men might defend against the whole

world, and this is the one entrance. The other is, that you must ascend

this great mountain, by a path of two full leagues in length, on the

one side having always the river, and the way so narrow, that one man

must go before another, and one man can defend the path in such manner,

that no arbalist, nor engine of other kind, nor any other thing, can

hurt him, not if the whole world were to come against him. And if any

one were to stumble upon this path, he would fall more than two thousand

fathoms, down over rocks into the river, which lies at such a depth that

the water appears blacker than pitch. And upon that mountain there is a

good spring, and a plain where there are good meadows, and room enough to

raise grain for eight or ten persons for a year; and the snow is always

there for company, enduring from one year to another. And upon that

mountain the archbishop made two churches, one to the honour of St. Mary

Magdalen, and the other to the honour of St. Michael, and there he placed

all these reliques, where he had no fear that any should take them; and

for the honour of these relics, the archbishop consecrated the whole

mountain, and appointed good guard over the sacred relics, and left there

three men of good life, who were willing to remain there, serving God,

and doing penance for their sins.”—P. 2. c. 48.

Of the _Camara Santa_, Morales has given a curious account in his

Journal; the substance, with other remarkable circumstances, he

afterwards thus inserted in his great history:—

“The other church (or chapel) which King Alonso el Casto ordered to be

built on the south side of the Iglesia Mayor (or cathedral), was with

the advocation of the Glorious Archangel St. Michael. And in order that

he might elevate it, he placed under it another church of the Virgin and

Martyr St. Leocadia, somewhat low, and vaulted with a strong arch, to

support the great weight which was to be laid upon it. The king’s motive

for thus elevating this church of St. Michael, I believe certainly to

have been because of the great humidity of that land. He had determined

to place in this church the famous relics of which we shall presently

speak, and the humidity of the region is so great, that even in summer

the furniture of the houses on high ground is covered with mold. This

religious prince therefore elevated the church with becoming foresight

for reverence and better preservation of the precious treasure which

was therein to be deposited. For this reason they call it Camara, (the

chamber,) and for the many and great relics which it contains, it has

most deservedly the appellation of Holy. You ascend to it by a flight

of twenty-two steps, which begin in the cross of the Iglesia Mayor (or

cathedral), and lead to a vaulted apartment twenty feet square, where

there is an altar upon which mass is said; for within there is no altar,

neither is mass said there by reason of the reverence shewn to so great

a sanctuary; and it may be seen that K. D. Alonso intended in his plan

that there should be no altar within. In this apartment or outer chapel

is a great arched door, with a very strong fastening; it leads to another

smaller square chamber, vaulted also, with a square door, which also is

fastened with another strong fastening, and these are the fastenings and

keys which the Bishop Sampyro admires for their strength and security.

“The square door is the door of the Holy Chamber, which is in the form

of a complete church, and you descend to it by twelve steps. The body

of this church is twenty-four feet in length, and sixteen in width. Its

arched roof is of the same dimensions. The roof is most richly wrought,

and supported upon six columns of divers kinds of marble, all precious

and right beautiful, upon which the twelve apostles are sculptured, two

and two. The ground is laid with Mosaic work, with variety of columns,

representing jasper ware. The Bishop Sampyro had good reason to complain

of the darkness of this church, which has only one small window in the

upper part of the chapel; and, therefore, in this which we call the

body of the church, there are commonly three silver lamps burning, the

one in the middle larger than the other two, and many other lights are

kindled when the relics are shewn. These are kept within a grating, which

divides the chapel from the church. The chapel has two rich marbles at

the entrance; it is eighteen feet in length, and its width somewhat

less; the floor and the roof are after the same fashion as those of

the church, but it is one _estado_ lower, which in those times seems to

have been customary in Asturias and in Gallicia, the Capillas Mayores,

or principal chapels, being much lower than the body of the church. The

roof of the chapel is plain, and has painted in the middle our Saviour in

the midst of the four evangelists; and this performance is so ancient,

that it is manifestly of the age of the founder. At this iron grating

strangers are usually detained; there is a lower one within of wood, to

which persons are admitted who deserve this privilege for their dignity;

and few there be who enter farther. This church the king built to remove

to it, as accordingly he forthwith removed, the Holy Ark, the holy

bodies, and the other great relics, which, at the destruction of Spain,

were hidden in the cave and well of Monsagro, and for this cause he had

it built with so much care, and so richly, and with such security.——

“I have described the Camara Santa thus particularly, that what I may say

of the most precious relics which it contains may be the better enjoyed.

I will particularize the most principal of them, beginning with the Holy

Ark, which with great reason has deserved this name. It is in the midst

of the chapel, close to the wooden grate, so that you can only go round

it on three sides, and it is placed upon a stone pedestal, wrought with

mouldings of a palm in height. It is a vara and a half (about five feet)

in length; little less than a vara wide, and about as deep, that part

which is of silver, not including the height which the pedestal gives

it. The cover is flat, and it is covered in all parts with silver plates

of some thickness, and gilt on some places. In the front, or that side

which fronts the body of the church, it has the twelve apostles in more

than half relief, and on the sides there are histories of Our Lady in

the same silver-work. On the flat part of the cover there is a large

crucifix engraved with many other images round about it. The sides are

elaborately wrought with foliage, and the whole displays great antiquity.

The cover has round about it four lines in the silver, which, however,

are imperfect, the silver being wanting in some places. What they contain

is this, as I have copied it faithfully, with its bad Latin and other

faults:—

“_Omnis conventus populi Deo dignus catholici cognoscat, quorum inclytas

veneratur reliquias, intra pretiosissima præsentis archælatera. Hoc est

de ligno plurimum, sive de cruce Domini. De vestimentis illius, quod

per sortem divisum est. De pane delectabili unde in cena usus est. De

sindone Dominico ejus adque sudario et cruore sanctissimo. De terra

sancta quam piis calcavit tunc vestigiis. De vestimentis matris ejus

Virginis Mariæ. De lacte quoque ejus, quod multum est mirabile, His

pariter conjunctæ sunt quædam sanctorum maxime prestantes reliquiæ,

quorum prout potuimus, hæc nomina subscripsimus. Hoc est de Sancto Petro,

de Sancto Thoma, Sancti Bartolomei. De ossibus Prophetarum, de omnibus

Apostolis, et de aliis quam plurimis sanctis, quorum nomina sola Dei

scientia colligit. His omnibus egregius Rex Adefonsus humili devotione

perditus fecit hoc receptaculum, sanctorum pignoribus insignitum argento

deauratum, exterius adornatum non vilibus operibus: per quod post

ejus vitam mereatur consortium illorum in cœlestibus sanctorum jubari

precibus. Hæc quidem saluti et re_——Here a large piece of the silver is

gone.—_Novit omnis provintia in terra sine dubio._——Here there is another

great chasm.—_Manus et industria clericorum et præsulum, qui propter hoc

convenimus cum dicto Adefonso Principe, et cum germana læctissima Urraca

nomina dicta: quibus Redemptor omnium concedit indulgentiam et suorum

peccatorum veniam, per hoc sanctorum pignora Apostolorum et Sancti Justi

et Pastoris, Cosmæ et Damiani, Eulaliæ Virginis, et Maximi, Germani,

Baudili, Pantaleonis, Cypriani et Justinæ, Sebastiani, Facundi et

Primitivi, Christophori, Cucufati, Felicis, Sulpicii._

“This inscription, with its bad Latin and other defects, and by reason

of the parts that are lost, can ill be translated. Nevertheless I shall

render it, in order that it may be enjoyed by all. It says thus: Know

all the congregation of Catholic people, worthy of God, whose the famous

relics are, which they venerate within the most precious sides of this

ark. Know then that herein is great part of the wood or cross of our

Lord. Of his garment for which they cast lots. Of the blessed bread

whereof he ate at the supper. Of his linen, of the holy handkerchief (the

Sudario), and of his most holy blood. Of the holy ground which he then

trod with his holy feet. Of the garments of his mother the Virgin Mary,

and also of her milk, which is a great wonder. With these also there are

many capital relics of saints, whose names we shall write here as we can.

Saint Peter, St. Thomas, St. Bartholomew. Bones of the prophets, and of

all the Apostles, and of many other saints whose names are known only

to the wisdom of God. The noble King Don Alonso, being full of humble

devotion for all these holy relics, made this repository, adorned and

ennobled with pledges of the saints, and on the outside covered with

silver, and gilded with no little cunning. For the which may he deserve

after this life the company of these Saints in heaven, being aided by

their intercession.—These holy relics were placed here by the care and by

the hands of many clergy and prelates, who were here assembled with the

said King D. Alonso, and with his chosen sister called Donna Urraca. To

whom may the Redeemer of all grant remission and pardon of their sins,

for the reverence and rich reliquary which they made for the said relics

of the Apostles, and for those of the Saints, St. Justus and Pastor, St.

Cosme and St. Damian, St. Eulalia the Virgin, and of the Saints Maximus,

Germanus, Baudilus, Pantaleon, Cyprianus and Justina, Sebastian, Facundus

and Primitivus, Christopher, Cucufatus, Felix and Sulpicius.——

“The sum of the manner in which this Holy Ark came into Spain is this,

conformably to what is written by all our grave authors. When Cosroes

the King of Persia, in the time of the Emperor Heraclius, came upon the

Holy Land, and took the city of Jerusalem, the bishop of that city, who

was called Philip, and his clergy, with pious forethought, secreted the

Holy Ark, which from the time of the Apostles had been kept there, and

its stores augmented with new relics, which were deposited therein.

After the victory of Cosroes, the Bishop Philip, with many of his

clergy, passed into Africa, carrying with them the Holy Ark: and there

it remained some years, till the Saracens entered into that province

also, and then Fulgentius the Bishop of Ruspina, with providence like

that which had made Philip bring it to Africa, removed it into Spain.

Thus it came to the Holy Church of Toledo, and was from thence removed

to Asturias, and hidden in the cave of Monsagro: finally, King D. Alonso

el Casto removed it to the Camara Santa; and afterwards K. D. Alonso

the Great enriched it. Thus our histories write, and the same is read

in the lessons on the festival which the church of Oviedo celebrates of

the coming there of this Holy Ark, with a sermon proper for the day,

and much solemnity, the service being said on the 13th of March after

vespers, above in the church of the Camara Santa. This is a most weighty

testimony which the Holy Ark possesses of its own authenticity, and of

the genuineness of the most great treasure which it contains.—These also

are strong testimonies, that K. D. Alonso the Great should not only have

made the Ark so rich, but that this king should also have fortified

the city of Oviedo, surrounding it with walls, and making for it a

castle, and building also the castle of Gauzon upon the shore, for the

defence and security of this holy treasure, and for another end, as he

left written upon the stone of which we have elsewhere spoken. Another

testimony of great authority, is the great reverence which has been shewn

to this Holy Ark, from the time which is spoken of by Alonso the Great

in the inscription, to these our days. This is so great that no one

has dared to open it, melancholy examples being related of some daring

attempts which have been made. That which occurred in our days is not

mournful, but rather of much devotion and holy joy. The most illustrious

Señor D. Christoval de Rojas y Sandoval, who is now the most worthy

Archbishop of Seville, when he was Bishop of Oviedo, determined to open

the Holy Ark. For this, as the singular devotion and most holy zeal for

the glory of God which he has in all things, admonished him, he made such

pious preparations as the fame of so celestial a treasure shewed to be

necessary. He proclaimed solemnly a fast of forty days in his church and

through all his diocese, commanding that prayers should be made to our

Lord, beseeching him that he would be pleased with what was intended, his

Most-Illustriousness giving the example, which is very common and very

edifying in his church, in himself, and in the ministers thereof. Three

days before the Sunday on which the Ark was to be opened, he ordered

all persons to fast, and to make greater prayers with processions. When

the day arrived, he said pontifical mass, and preached, infusing with

his holy exhortations much of his own devout desires into the hearts of

the hearers. The mass being finished, clad as he was, he ascended to

the Camara Santa, with much outward solemnity, and with much fervour of

devotion internally in his heart; and having there again renewed his

humble prayers to our Lord, and quickened the ardour of that sacred

desire which had influenced him; on his knees as he was before the Holy

Ark, he took the key to open it. At the moment when he stretched out his

hand to put the key in the lock, suddenly he felt such horror and dismay,

and found himself so bereft of all power (_tan impossibilitado_) to move

it in any way, that it was impossible for him to proceed, or do any thing

but remain in that holy consternation, without having strength or ability

for more. And as if he had come there to oppose and prevent that which

purposely, and with so much desire and preparation, he had intended to

do, he desisted from his intent, and gave it up, his whole holy desire

being turned into a chill of humble shrinking and fear. Among other

things which his most Illustrious Lordship relates of what he then felt,

he says, that his hair stood up in such a manner and with such force,

that it seemed to him, as if it lifted the mitre a considerable way

from his head. Now, we all know that this famous prelate has vigour and

persevering courage for all the great things which he undertakes in the

service of our Lord; but in this manner the Holy Ark remained unopened

then, and thus I believe it will always remain fastened more surely with

veneration and reverence, and with respect of these examples, than with

the strong bolt of its lock.

“In the inscription of this Holy Ark, mention is made of the relics of

St. Baudilus, and by reason that he is a Saint very little known, it

will be proper to say something of him. This Saint is much reverenced in

Salamanca and in Zamora, and in both cities he has a parochial church,

and in Zamora they have a good part of his relics. They have so much

corrupted the name, calling him St. Boal, that the Saint is now scarcely

known by his own.

“They of the church say, that the cope of St. Ildefonso, which Our Lady

gave him, is in the Ark. This may well be believed, since our good

authors particularly relate that it was carried to Oviedo with the Holy

Ark, and with the other relics, and it does not now appear among them,

and there is much more reason to think that it has been very carefully

put away, than that it has been lost. Also they say, that when the

celestial cope was put into the Holy Ark, they took out of it the piece

of the holy Sudario, in which the head of our Redeemer was wrapped up

for his interment, as is said in the inscription of the Ark. This is

one of the most famous relics in all Christendom, and therefore it is

most richly adorned, and reverently preserved, being shown only three

times in the year with the greatest solemnity. The box in which it is

kept is wrought without of gold and azure, with beautiful mouldings and

pictures, and other ornaments of much authority. Within this there is a

square piece of wood, covered entirely with black velvet, with silver

handles, and other decorations of silver round about; in the hollow of

this square, the holy Sudario is stretched and fastened upon the velvet;

it is a thin linen cloth, three quarters long and half a vara wide, and

in many places full of the divine blood from the head of our Redeemer, in

divers forms and stains of various sizes; wherein some persons observe

marks of the divine countenance and other particularities. I did not

perceive this; but the feeling which came upon me when I looked at it is

sufficient to make me believe any thing of it; and if a wretch like me

was thus affected, what must it be with those who deserve of our Lord

greater regalements on such an occasion? It is exhibited to the people

three times in the year; on Good Friday, and on the two festivals of

the Cross in May and in September, and there is then a great concourse

from all the country, and from distant parts. This part of the cross of

the church where the Camara Santa is, is richly hung, and in the first

apartment of the Camara, a corridor is erected for this exhibition,

which is closed that day with curtains of black velvet, and a canopy

that extends over the varandas. The Bishop in his pontificals, with his

assistants and other grave persons, places himself behind the curtains

with the Holy Sudario, holding it by the silver handles, covered with

a veil. The curtains are undrawn, and the quiristers below immediately

begin the _Miserere_. The Bishop lifts the veil, and at the sight of the

Holy Sudario, another music begins of the voices of the people, deeply

affected with devotion, which verily penetrates all hearts. The Bishop

stands some time, turning the Sacred Relic to all sides, and afterwards

the veil being replaced, and the curtains redrawn, he replaces the Holy

Sudario in its box. With all these solemnities, the very Illustrious

and most Reverend Señor, M. D. Gonzalo de Solorzano, Bishop of Oviedo,

exhibited this Holy Relic on the day of Santiago, in the year of our

Redeemer 1572, in order that I might bear a more complete relation of the

whole to the King our Lord, I having at that time undertaken this sacred

journey by his command.

“Another chest, with a covering of crimson and brocade, contains a good

quantity of bones, and some pieces of a head; which, although they are

very damp, have a most sweet odour, and this all we who were present

perceived, when they were shown me, and we spoke of it as of a notable

and marvellous thing. The account which they of the church give of this

holy body is, that it is that of St. Serrano, without knowing any thing

more of it. I, considering the great dampness of the sacred bones believe

certainly that it was brought up to the Camara Santa from the church of

Leocadia, which, as it has been seen, is underneath it. And there, in

the altar, the great stone-chest is empty, in which King Alonso el Casto

enclosed many relics, as the Bishop Sampyro writes. For myself I have

always held for certain, that the body of St. Leocadia is that which is

in this rich chest. And in this opinion I am the more confirmed since the

year 1580, when such exquisite diligence has been used by our Spaniards

in the monastery of St. Gisleno, near Mons de Henao in Flanders, to

verify whether the body of St. Leocadia, which they have there, is

that of our Saint. The result has been, that it was ascertained beyond

all doubt to be the same; since an authentic writing was found of the

person who carried it thither by favour of one of our earliest kings,

and he carried it from Oviedo without dispute; because, according to my

researches, it is certain that it was there. Now I affirm, that the king

who gave part left part also; and neither is that which is there so much,

that what we saw at Oviedo might not well have been left, neither is this

so much but that which is at Mons might well have been given.

“In the church below, in a hollow made for this purpose, with grates, and

a gate well ornamented, is one of the vessels which our Redeemer Jesus

Christ filled with miraculous wine at the marriage in Galilee. It is of

white marble, of an ancient fashion, more than three feet high, and two

wide at the mouth, and contains more than six _arrobas_. And forasmuch as

it is in the wall of the church of K. Alonso el Casto, and all the work

about it is very ancient, it may be believed that the said king ordered

it to be placed there.”—_Coronica General de Espana_, l. 13. b. 40.

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