SOCK SIZES: The animals and dolls in this book were made from size 13
socks; the puppets were made from size 9 socks. The clothing pattern
designs will fit toys made from these sizes.
STUFFING: We used kapok for ease in packing and shaping. Nylon fluff,
dacron filling, shredded foam rubber or lint from an automatic dryer
will work as well. Old nylon hose and other cloth scraps tend to become
lumpy. Use a pencil or dowel for packing stuffing in narrow places.
Clean stuffed toys by dry sudsing.
WIRING: Stove pipe wire or similar types work fine. Coat hanger wire is
too thick and hard to bend. Always bend wire ends up and in to prevent
them from working through. Wraps wires with adhesive tape or string.
Dabs of cement on the wire will hold string in place (Figure 1). Insert
wires straight and bend the completed tail, ears and so forth.
[Illustration: Figure 1]
BEND ENDS
WRAP ENDS
ANIMAL LEGS
HUMAN LEGS
SHAPING: Toys can be molded by pushing or pulling the stuffing with the
fingers. An occasional stitch will help hold the shape. To mold chubby
cheeks, make circles of small stitches, pluck the stuffing up in the
circles, pull the ends of the thread together and tie off (Figure 2).
[Illustration: Figure 2]
MAKING DIMPLES
GATHER CHEEKS
PULL STITCHES TO SHAPE CHEEKS
Indentations and dimples are made by pulling a few sock threads back
into the toy. This is done by pushing a threaded needle through from the
back, catching a few sock threads and pushing the needle back again.
Pulling on the needle thread pulls the sock threads in. Repeat for the
desired indentations and tie off. Figure 3 shows how this is done for
eye sockets. For toys with side eyes (bunnies, donkeys, etc.) work from
eye to eye. For more natural lip lines, catch several sock threads in
shallow arcs over and under the lips and in a straight line between the
lips (Figure 4). See Scrappy on page 17 for ideas on where to put
dimples. Use a darning needle to push through the head or body. Lightly
pencilled guide lines are helpful.
[Illustration: Figure 3]
SETTING IN DOLL’S EYES (BACK TO FRONT)
SETTING IN BUNNY’S EYES (SIDE TO SIDE)
[Illustration: Figure 4]
MAKE STITCHES AROUND MOUTH AND ACROSS LIPS
WORKING FROM BACK TO FRONT
FEATURES: To give the face a flesh colored look, dip the toe of the sock
in a weak solution of pink dye before the sock is cut and stuffed. Be
sure the solution is lukewarm. For a more professional look, sew flesh
colored stockinet over the face after the features have been molded and
stitched into shape (Figure 5).
[Illustration: Figure 5]
MOLD FEATURES BY PINCHING AND STITCHING
THEN SEW STOCKINET TIGHTLY OVER FACE WITHOUT FLATTENING
EYES: If you plan to make several toys, especially animals, invest in
manufactured eyes. Or, use eyes from discarded toys. Shoe buttons also
make very good eyes since they have shanks. Add a highlight speck of
white paint to each button eye to avoid that blank look. Never use eyes
that are too small unless you want an older or mean look.
HAIR: Inexpensive wigs, or ones from discarded dolls, can be substituted
for pom poms and scrap fur. Pencil guide lines on the head before sewing
on pom poms.
FACIAL EXPRESSIONS: Much can be done to accentuate features and to give
toys individuality by embroidering or using felt eyebrows, eyelashes,
wrinkles, crinkles and so forth. Felt pieces should be glued on or sewn
with tiny stitches in matching thread. We used the satin stitch for
embroidered features (Figure 6).
[Illustration: Figure 6]
BLACK CENTER
WHITE HIGHLIGHT
BLUE
SATIN STITCH MOUTH
SATIN STITCH EYE
CLOTHING: Use freshly laundered and pressed materials—it’s well worth
the extra effort. Avoid patterned materials that are out of proportion
to the toys. Crayons (pressed well into the fabric) or textile paints
can be used to make small pattern designs. Tempera paints tend to wash
out. Choose materials that do not easily unravel.
[Illustration: uncaptioned]