Capiaga, High Porter.
Alnader Bassi, Treasurer.
Oda Bassi, Chamberlaine.
Killergi Bassi, Steward.
Saraiaga, Comptroller.
Peskerolen, Groome of the chamber.
Edostoglan, Gentleman of the Ewer.
Sehetaraga, Armour bearer.
Choataraga, he that carieth his riding cloake.
Ebietaraga, Groome of the stoole.
There be many other maner Officers, which I esteeme superfluous to write.
The Turkes yeerely reuenue.
The Grand Signiors annual reuenue is said to be fourteene Millions and an
halfe of golden ducats, which is sterling fiue millions, eight score
thousand pounds.
The tribute payd by the Christians his Subiects is one gold ducat yeerely
for the redemption of euery head, which may amount vnto not so litle as one
Million of golden ducats, which is sterling three hundred threescore
thousand pounds.
Moreouer, in time of warre, he exacteth manifolde summes for maintenance of
his Armie and Nauie of the said Christians.
The Emperour payeth him yeerely tribute for Hungary, threescore thousand
dollers, which is sterling thirteene thousand pound, besides presents to
the Viceroy and Bassas, which are said to amount to twentie thousand
dollers.
Ambassadors Allowances.
The Ambassadour of the Emperour is allowed one thousand Aspers the day.
The Ambassadour of the French king heretofore enioyed the like: but of late
yeeres by meanes of displeasure conceiued by Mahumet then Viceroy, it was
reduced to sixe crownes the day, beside the prouision of his Esquire of his
stable.
The Ambassadours of Poland, and for the state of Venice are not Ligiers as
these two abouesaid. The said Polack is allowed 12. Frenche crownes the day
during his abode, which may be for a moneth. Very seldome do the state of
Venice send any Ambassador otherwise, then enforced of vrgent necessity:
but in stead thereof keepe their Agent, president ouer other Marchants of
them termed a bailife, who hath none allowance of the Grand Signior,
although his port and state is in maner as magnifical as the other
aforesaid Ambassadors. The Spanish Ambassador was equall with other in
Ianizaries: but for so much as he would not according to custome folow the
list of other Ambassadors in making presents to the Grand Signior, he had
none alowance. His abode there was 3. yeres, at the end whereof, hauing
concluded a truce for six yeres, taking place from his first comming in
Nouember last past 1580. he was not admitted to the presence of the Grand
Signior.
* * * * *
To the Worshipfull and his very loving Vncle M. Rowland Hewish, Esquier, at
Sand in Devonshire.
Sir, considering the goodnesse of your Nature which is woont kindely to
accept from a friend, euen of meane things being giuen with a good heart, I
haue presumed to trouble you with the reading of this rude discourse of my
trauels into Turkie, and of the deliuerie of the present with such other
occurrents as there happened woorthie the obseruation: of all which
proceedings I was an eie-witnesse, it pleasing the Ambassadour to take mee
in with him to the Grand Signior. If for lacke of time to put it in order I
haue not performed it so well as it ought, I craue pardon, assuring you
that to my knowledge I haue not missed in the trueth of any thing. If you
aske me what in my trauels I haue learned, I answere as a noble man of
France did to the like demaund, Hoc vnum didici, mundi contemptum: and so
concluding with the wise man in the booke of the Preacher, that all is
vanitie, and one thing onely is necessarie, I take my leaue and commit you
to the Almightie. From London the 16. March 1597.
Your louing Nephew
Richard Wrag.
A description of a Voiage to Constantinople and Syria, begun the 21. of
March 1593. and ended the 9. of August, 1595. wherein is shewed the order
of deliuering the second Present by Master Edward Barton her maiesties
Ambassador, which was sent from her Maiestie to Sultan Murad Can,
Emperour of Turkie.
We set saile in the Ascension of London, a new shippe very well appointed,
of two hundred and three score tunnes (whereof was master one William
Broadbanke, a prouident and skilfull man in his facultie) from Grauesend
the one and twentie of March 1593. And vpon the eight of Aprill folowing
wee passed the streights of Gibraltar, and with a small Westerne gale, the
24. of the same, we arriued at Zante an Iland vnder the Venetians. The
fourth of May wee departed, and the one and twentie wee arriued at
Alexandretta in Cilicia in the very bottome of the Mediterrane sea, a roade
some 25. miles distance from Antioch, where our marchants land their goods
to bee sent for Aleppo. From thence wee set saile the fift of Iune, and by
contrary windes were driuen vpon the coast of Caramania into a road neere a
litle Iland where a castle standeth, called Castle Rosso, some thirtie
leagues to the Eastwards of the Rhodes, where after long search for fresh
water, we could finde none, vntil certaine poore Greekes of the Iland
brought vs to a well where we had 5 or 6 tuns. That part of the country
next the sea is very barren and full of mountains, yet found we there an
olde tombe of marble, with an epitaph of an ancient Greeke caracter, by
antiquity neere worne out and past reading; which to the beholders seemed a
monument of the greatnesse of the Grecian monarchy. [Sidenote: Candie.]
From thence we went to the Rhodes, and by contrary windes were driuen into
a port of Candy, called Sittia: this Iland is vnder the Venetians, who haue
there 600 souldiers, besides certaine Greeks, continually in pay. Here with
contrary winds we stayed six weeks, and in the end, hauing the winde
prosperous, we sailed by Nicaria, Pharos, Delos, and Andros, with sight of
many other Ilands in the Archipelago, and arriued at the two castles in
Hellespont the 24 of August. Within few dayes after we came to Galipoli
some thirty miles from this place, where foure of vs tooke a Parma or boat
of that place, with two watermen, which rowed us along the Thracian shore
to Constantinople, which sometime sailing and sometime rowing, in foure
dayes they performed. The first of September we arriued at the famous port
of the Grand Signior, where we were not a little welcome to M. Edward
Barton vntil then her Maiesties Agent, who (with many other great persons)
had for many dayes expected the present. [Sidenote: The Ascension arriued
at the 7 towers.] Fiue or sixe dayes after the shippe arriued neere the
Seuen towers, which is a very strong hold, and so called of so many
turrets, which it hath, standing neere the sea side, being the first part
of the city that we came vnto. [Sidenote: The ship saluteth the grand
Signior.] Heere the Agent appointed the master of the Ascension to stay
with the shippe vntill a fitte winde and opportunity serued to bring her
about the Seraglio to Salute the Grand Signior in his moskyta or church:
for you shall vnderstand that he hath built one neere the wall of his
Seraglio or pallace adioyning to the Sea side; whereunto twise or thrise a
weeke he resorteth to performe such religious rites as their law requireth:
where hee being within few dayes after, our shippe set out in their best
maner with flagges, streamers and pendants of diuers coloured silke, with
all the mariners, together with most of the Ambassadours men, hauing the
winde faire, and came within two cables length of this his moskita, where
(hee to his great content beholding the shippe in such brauery) they
discharged first two volies of small shot, and then all the great ordinance
twise ouer, there being seuen and twentie or eight and twentie pieces in
the ship. Which performed, he appointed the Bustangi-Bassa or captaine of
the great and spacious garden or parke, to giue our men thankes, with
request that some other day they would shew him the like sporte when hee
would have the Sultana or Empresse a beholder thereof, which few dayes
after at the shippes going to the Custome-house they performed.
The grand Signiors salutation thus ended, the master brought the ship to an
anker at Rapamat neere the ambassadors house, where hee likewise saluted
him with all his great ordinance once ouer, and where he landed the
Present, the deliuerie whereof for a time was staied: the cause of which
staie it shall neither be dishonorable for our nation, or that woorthie man
the ambassador to shew you. [Sidenote: The cause of staying the present.]
At the departure of Sinan Bassa the chiefe Vizir, and our ambassadors great
friend toward the warres of Hungarie there was another Bassa appointed in
his place, a churlish and harsh natured man, who vpon occasion of certaine
Genouezes, escaping out of the castles standing toward the Euxine Sea, nowe
called the black Sea, there imprisoned, apprehended and threatened to
execute one of our Englishmen called Iohn Field, for that hee was taken
thereabouts, and knowen not many dayes before to haue brought a letter to
one of them: vpon the soliciting of whose libertie there fell a iarre
betweene the Bassa (being now chiefe Vizir) and our ambassador, and in
choler he gaue her maiesties ambassador such words, as without sustaining
some great indignitie hee could not put vp. [Sidenote: An Arz to the grand
Signior] Whereupon after the arriual of the Present, he made an Arz, that
is, a bill of Complaint to the grand Signior against him, the manner in
exhibiting whereof is thus performed.
The plaintifes expect the grand Signiors going abroad from his pallace,
either to Santa Sophia or to his church by the sea side, whither, with a
Perma (that is one of their vsuall whirries) they approch within some two
or three score yards, where the plaintife standeth vp, and holdeth his
petition ouer his forehead in sight of the grand Signior (for his church is
open to the Sea side) the rest sitting still in the boat, who appointeth
one of his Dwarfes to receiue them, and to bring them to him. A Dwarfe, one
of the Ambassadors fauorites, so soone as he was discerned, beckned him to
the shore side, tooke his Arz, and with speed caried it to the grand
Signior. Now the effect of it was this; that except his highnesse would
redresse this so great an indignitie, which the Vizir his slaue had offered
him and her maiestie in his person, he was purposed to detaine the Present
vntill such time as he might by letters ouer-land from her maiestie bee
certified, whither she would put vp so great an iniurie as it was.
[Sidenote: The great hall of Iustice.] Whereupon he presently returned
answere, requesting the ambassador within an houre after to goe to the
Douan of the Vizir, vnto whom himselfe of his charge would send a gowne of
cloth of gold, and commaund him publikely to put it vpon him, and with kind
entertainment to imbrace him in signe of reconciliation. [Sidenote:
Reconceliation with the Vizir made.] Whereupon our ambassador returning
home, tooke his horse, accompanied with his men, and came to the Vizirs
court, where, according to the grand Signiors command, he with all shew of
kindnesse embraced the ambassador, and with curteous speeches reconciled
himselfe, and with his own hands put the gowne of cloth of gold vpon his
backe. Which done, hee with his attendants returned home, to the no small
admiration of all Christians, that heard of it, especially of the French
and Venetian ambassadors, who neuer in the like case against the second
person of the Turkish Empire durst haue attempted so bold an enterprise
with hope of so friendly audience, and with so speedie redresse. This
reconciliation with the great Vizir thus made, the ambassador prepared
himselfe for the deliuerie of the Present, which vpon the 7 of October
1593. in this maner he performed.
[Sidenote: The ambassador goeth to the court with the present.] The
Ascension with her flags and streamers, as aforesaid, repaired nigh vnto
the place where the ambassador should land to go vp to the Seraglio: for
you must vnderstand that all Christian ambassadors haue their dwelling in
Pera where most Christians abide, from which place, except you would go 4
or 5 miles about, you cannot go by land to Constantinople, whereas by Sea
it is litle broder then the Thames. Our Ambassador likewise apparelled in a
sute of cloth of siluer, with an vpper gowne of cloth of gold, accompanied
with 7 gentlemen in costly sutes of Sattin, with 40 other of his men very
well apparelled, and all in one liuerie of sad French russet cloth gownes,
at his house tooke boate: at whose landing the ship discharged all her
ordinance, where likewise attended 2 Bassas, with 40 or 50 Chauses to
accompany the ambassador to the court, and also horses for the ambassador
and his gentlemen, very richly furnished, with Turkish seruants attendant
to take the horses when they should light. [Sidenote: The Ambass. came to
the Seraglio.] The ambassador thus honorably accompanied, the Chauses
foremost, next his men on foote all going by two and two, himselfe last
with his Chause and Drugaman or Interpreter, and 4 Ianissaries, which he
doeth vsually entertaine in his house to accompany him continually abroad,
came to the Seraglio about an Engush mile from the water side, where first
hee passed a great gate into a large court (much like the space before
Whitehall gate) where he with his gentlemen alighted and left their horses.
From hence they passed into an other stately court, being about 6 score in
bredth, and some 10 score yards long, with many trees in it: where all the
court was with great pompe set in order to entertaine our ambassador.
[Sidenote: All these are captaines of hundreds and of fifties.] Vpon the
right hand all the length of the court was a gallerie arched ouer, and
borne vp with stone pillars, much like the Roiall Exchange, where stood
most of his guard in rankes from the one end to the other in costly aray,
with round head pieces on their heads of mettall and gilt ouer, with a
great plume of fethers somewhat like a long brush standing vp before. On
the left hand stood the Cappagies or porters, and the Chauses. All these
courtiers being about the number of 2000. (as I might well gesse) most of
them apparelled in cloth of gold, siluer, veluet, sattin and scarlet, did
together with bowing their bodies, laying their hands vpon their brests in
curteous maner of salutation, entertain the Ambassador: who likewise
passing between them, and turning himself sometime to the right hand and
sometime to the left, answered them with the like. [Sidenote: The
ambassador receiued by the Vizir with all kindnesse.] As he thus passed
along, certaine Chauses conducted him to the Douan, which is the seat of
Iustice, where certaine dayes of the weeke the grand Vizir, with the other
Vizirs, the Cadi-lesker or lord chiefe Iustice, and the Mufti or high
priest do sit to determine vpon such causes as be brought before them,
which place is vpon the left side of this great court, whither the
ambassador with his gentlemen came, where hee found the Vizir thus
accompanied as aforesayd, who with great shew of kindnes receiued him: and
after receit of her maiesties letters, and conference had of the Present,
of her maiesties health, of the state of England, and such other matters as
concerned our peaceable traffique in those parts: [Sidenote: Diner brought
in.] dinner being prepared was by many of the Courtiers brought into
another inner roome next adioining, which consisted of an hundred dishes or
therabouts, most boiled and rosted, where the ambassador accompanied with
the Vizirs went to dinner, his gentlemen likewise with the rest of his men
hauing a dinner with the like varietie prepared vpon the same side of the
court, by themselues sate downe to their meat, 40 or 50 Chauses standing at
the vpper end attending vpon the gentlemen to see them serued in good
order; their drinke was water mingled with rose water and sugar brought in
a Luthro (that is a goates skinne) which a man carieth at his backe, and
vnder his arme letteth it run out at a spout into cups as men will call for
it. [Sidenote: Diner taken away] The dinner thus with good order brought
in, and for halfe an houre with great sobrietie and silence performed, was
not so orderly taken vp; for certaine Moglans officers of the kitchin (like
her maiesties black guard) came in disordered maner and tooke away the
dishes, and he whose hungry eie one dish could not satisfie, turned two or
three one into the other, and thus of a sudden was a cleane riddance made
of all. The ambassador after dinner with his gentlemen, by certaine
officers were placed at the vpper ende vpon the left side of the court,
nere vnto a great gate which gaue entrance to a third court being but
litle, paued with stone. [Sidenote: Gownes of cloth of gold for the
ambassador and his gentlemen.] In the midst whereof was a litle house built
of marble, as I take it, within which sate the grand Signor, according to
whose commandement giuen there were gownes of cloth of gold brought out of
the wardrope, and put vpon the ambassador and 7 of his gentlemen, the
ambassador himselfe hauing 2, one of gold and the other of crimosin veluet,
all the rest one a piece. [Sidenote: The Present.] Then certaine Cappagies
had the Present, which was in trunks there ready, deliuered them by the
ambassadors men, it being 12 goodly pieces of gilt plate, 36 garments of
fine English cloth of al colors, 20 garments of cloth of gold, 10 garments
of sattin, 6 pieces of fine Holland, and certaine other things of good
value; al which were caried round about the court, each man taking a piece,
being in number very neere 100 parcels, and so 2 and 2 going round that all
might see it, to the greater glory of the present, and of him to whom it
was giuen: [Sidenote: The Present viewed.] they went into the innermost
court passing by the window of that roome, where the grand Signior sate,
who, as it went by to be laid vp in certaine roomes adioining, tooke view
of all. Presently after the present followed the ambassador with his
gentlemen; at the gate of which court stoode 20 or 30 Agaus which be
eunuchs. Within the court yard were the Turkes Dwarfes and Dumbe men, being
most of them youths. At the doore of his roome stood the Bustangi-bassa,
with another Bassa to lead the ambassador and his folowers to the grand
Signior who sate in a chaire of estate, apparelled in a gowne of cloth of
siluer. The floore vnder his feete, which part was a foote higher then the
rest, was couered with a carpet of green sattin embrodered most richly with
siluer, orient perles and great Turkesses; the other part of the house was
couered with a carpet of Cornation sattin imbrodered with gold, none were
in the roome with him, but a Bassa who stood next the wall ouer against him
banging down his head, and looking submissely vpon the ground as all his
subjects doe in his presence. [Sidenote: The ambassador kisseth the grand
Signiors hand.] The ambassador thus betwixt two which stood at the doore
being led in, either of them taking an arme, kissed his hand, and so
backward with his face to the Turke they brought him nigh the dore againe,
where he stood vntill they had likewise done so with all the rest of his
gentlemen. [Sidenote: The ambassadors demands granted.] Which ended, the
ambassador, according as it is the custome when any present is deliuered,
made his three demaunds, such as he thought most expedient for her
maiesties honor, and the peaceable traffique of our nation into his
dominions: whereunto he answered in one word, Nolo, which is in Turkish as
much as, it shal be done: for it is not the maner of the Turkish emperor
familiarly to confer with any Christian ambassador, but he appointeth his
Vizir in his person to graunt their demaunds if they be to his liking: as
to our ambassador he granted all his demands, and gaue order that his daily
allowance for his house of mony, flesh, wood, and haie, should be augmented
with halfe as much more as it had bene before. Hereupon the ambassador
taking his leaue, departed with his gentlemen the same way he came, the
whole court saluting him as they did at his comming in: and comming to the
second court to take our horses, after we were mounted, we staied halfe an
houre, vntil the captain of the guard with 2000 horsemen at the least
passed before, after whom folowed 40 or 50 Chauses next before the
ambassador to accompany him to his house. And as before at his landing, so
now at his taking boat, the ship discharged all her great ordinance, where
arriuing, he likewise had a great banquet prepared to entertaine those
which came to bring him home. [Sidenote: The Sultanas present.] The pompe
and solemnitie of the Present, with the day thus ended, he shortly after
presented the Sultana or empresse who (by reason that she is mother to him
which was heire to the crown Imperial) is had in far greater reuerence then
any of his other Queens or concubines. The Present sent her in her
maiesties name was a iewel of her maiesties picture, set with some rubies
and diamants, 3 great pieces of gilt plate, 10 garments of cloth of gold, a
very fine case, of glass bottles siluer and gift, with 2 pieces of fine
Holland, which so gratefully she accepted, as that she sent to know of the
ambassador what present he thought she might return that would most delight
her maiestie: who sent word that a sute of princely attire being after the
Turkish fashion would for the rarenesse thereof be acceptable in England.
[The Sultanas present to the Queene. Letters sent for England.] Whereopon
she sent an vpper gowne of cloth of gold very rich, an vnder gowne of cloth
of siluer, and a girdle of Turkie worke, rich and faire, with a letter of
gratification, which for the rarenesse of the stile, because you may be
acquainted with it, I haue at the ende of this discourse hereunto annexed,
which letter and present, with one from the grand Signor, was sent by M.
Edward Bushell, and M. William Aldridge ouer-land the 20 of March, who
passed through Valachia and Moldauia, and so through Poland, where Michael
prince of Valachia, and Aron Voiuoda prince of Moldauia receiuing letters
from the ambassador, entertained them with al curtesie, through whose
meanes by the great fauour which his lordship had with the grand Signior,
they had not long before both of them bene aduanced to their princely
dignities. [Sidenote: The other Vizirs presented.] Hee likewise presented
Sigala the Admirall of the Seas, with Abrim Bassa, who maried the great
Turkes daughter, and all the other Vizirs with diuers pieces of plate, fine
English cloth and other costly things: the particulars whereof, to auoid
tediousnesse, I omit. [Sidenote: The Ascension departeth.] All the presents
thus ended, the ship shooting ten pieces of ordinance at the Seraglio
point, as a last farewell, departed on her iourney for England the first of
Nouember, my selfe continuing in Constantinople vntill the last of Iuly
after. This yere in the spring there was great preparation for the
Hungarian wars: and the great Turke threatned to goe himselfe in person:
but like Heliogabalus, his affections being more seruiceable to Venus then
to Mars, he stayed at home. Yet a great army was dispatched this yere; who,
as they came out of Asia to goe for Hungary, did so pester the streets of
Constantinople for the space of two moneths in the spring time, as scarse
either Christian or Iew could without danger of losing his money passe vp
and downe the city. What insolencies, murders and robberies were committed
not onely vpon Christians but also vpon Turks I omit to write, and I pray
God in England the like may neuer be seene: and yet I could wish, that such
amongst vs as haue inioyed the Gospel with such great and admirable peace
and prosperity vnder her Maiesties gouerment this forty yeeres, and haue
not all this time brought forth better fruits of obedience to God, and
thankfulnesse to her Maiesty, were there but a short time to beholde the
miserable condition both of Christians and others liuing vnder such an
infidell prince, who not onely are wrapped in most palpable and grosse
ignorance of minde, but are cleane without the meanes of the true knowledge
of God: I doubt not but the sight hereof (if they be not cleane void of
grace) would stirre them vp to more thankefulnesse to God, that euer they
were borne in so happy a time, and vnder so wise and godly a prince
professing the true religion of Christ.
The number of souldiours which went to the warres of Hungary this yeere
were 470000, as by the particulars giuen by the Admirall to the Ambassadour
hereunder doe appeare. Although all these were appointed and supposed to
goe, yet the victories which the Christians in the spring had against the
Turks strooke such a terrour in many of the Turkish souldiours, as by
report diuers vpon the way thither left their Captaines and stole away.
The number of Turkish souldiours which were appointed to goe into Hungary
against the Christian Emperour. May 1594.
Sinan Bassa generall, with the Saniacke masould, that is, out of office,
with the other Saniacks in office or of degree, 40000.
Achmigi, that is, Aduenturers, 50000.
The Agha or Captaine with his Ianisaries, and his Giebegies, 20000.
The Beglerbeg of Græcia, with all his Saniacks, 40000.
The company of Spaheis or horsemen, 10000.
The company of Silitari, 6000.
The company of Sagbulue and of Solbulue both together, 8000.
The Bassa of Belgrad. }
The Bassa of Temiswar. }
The Bassa of Bosna. } 80000.
The Bassa of Buda. }
The Siniack of Gersech. }
Out of Asia.
The Bassa of Caramania. }
The Bassa of Laras. }
The Bassa of Damasco. }
The Bassa of Suas. } 120000
The Bassa of Van or Nan. }
The Bassa of Vsdrum. }
Of Tartars there be about 100000. }
Thus you may see that the great Turke maketh warre with no small numbers.
And in anno 1597, when Sultan Mahomet himselfe went in person into Hungary,
if a man may beleeue reports, he had an army of 600000.
For the city of Constantinople you shall vnderstand that it is matchable
with any city in Europe, as well in bignesse as for the pleasant situation
thereof, and commodious traffike and bringing of all maner of necessary
prouision of victuals, and whatsoeuer els mans life for the sustentation
thereof shall require, being seated vpon a promontory, looking toward
Pontus Euxinus vpon the Northeast, and to Propontis on the Southwest, by
which two seas by shipping is brought great store of all maner of victuals.
The city it selfe in forme representeth a triangular figure, the sea
washing the walles vpon two sides thereof, the other side faceth the
continent of Thracia; the grand Signiors seraglio standeth vpon that point
which looketh into the sea, being cut off from the city by a wall; so that
the wall of his pallace conteineth in circuit about two English miles: the
seuen towers spoken of before stand at another corner, and Constantines
olde pallace to the North at the third corner. The city hath a threefolde
wall about it; the innermost very high, the next lower then that, and the
third a countermure and is in circuit about ten English miles: it hath
foure and twentie gates: and when the empire was remooued out of the West
into the East, it was inriched with many spoiles of olde Rome by Vespasian
and other emperours, hauing many monuments and pillars in it worthy the
obseruation; amongst the rest in the midst of Constantinople standeth one
of white marble called Vespasians pillar, of 38 or 40 yards high, which
hath from the base to the top proportions of men in armour fighting on
horsebacke: it is likewise adorned with diuers goodly buildings and stately
Mesquitas, whereof the biggest is Sultan Solimans a great warriour, which
liued in the time of Charles the fifth; but the fairest is Santa Sophia,
which in the time of the Christian emperours was the chiefe cathedrall
church, and is still in greatest account with the great Turke: it is built
round like other Greekish churches, the pavements and walles be all of
marble, it hath beneath 44 pillars of diuers coloured marble of admirable
height and bignesse, which stand vpon great round feet of brasse, much
greater then the pillars, and of a great height, some ten yards distant
from the wall: from which vnto these pillars is a great gallery built,
which goeth round about the church; and vpon the outside of the gallery
stand 66 marble pillars which beare vp the round roofe being the top of the
church: it hath three pulpits or preaching places, and about 2000 lampes
brought in by the Turke. Likewise vpon one side in the top is the picture
of Christ with the 12 Apostles, but their faces are defaced, with two or
three ancient tombs of Christians: to the West sticketh an arrow in the
toppe of the Church, which, as the Turks report, Sultan Mahomet shot when
he first tooke the city. Neere adioyning be two chapels of marble, where
lie buried most of the emperours with their children and sultanas. The 16
of Iuly, accompanied with some other of our nation we went by water to the
Blacke sea, being 16 miles distant from Constantinople, the sea al the way
thither being little broader then the Thames; both sides of the shore are
beautified with faire and goodly buildings. At the mouth of this Bosphorus
lieth a rocke some fourescore yards from the maine land, wherevpon standeth
a white marble pillar called Pompeys pillar, the shadow whereof was 23
foote long at nine of the clocke in the forenoone: over against it is a
turret of stone upon the maine land 120 steps high, hauing a great
glass-lanthorne in the toppe foure yards in diamiter and three in height,
with a great copper pan in the midst to holde oile, with twenty lights in
it, and it serueth to giue passage into this straight in the night to such
ships as come from all parts of those seas to Constantinople: it is
continually kept by a Turke, who to that end hath pay of the grand Signior.
And thus hauing spent eleuen moneths in Constantinople, accompanied with a
chause, and carying certaine mandates from the grand Signior to the Bassa
of Aleppo for the kinde vsage of our nation in those parts, the 30 of Iuly
I tooke passage in a Turkish carmosale or shippe bound for Sidon; and
passing thorow Propontis, hauing Salimbria with Heraclia most pleasantly
situated on the right hand, and Proconesus now called Marmora on the left,
we came to Gallipoly, and so by Hellespont, betweene the two castles before
named called Sestos and Abydos, famous for the passages made there both by
Xerxes and great Alexander, the one into Thracia, the other into Asia, and
so by the Sigean Promontory, now called Cape Ianitzary, at the mouth of
Hellespont vpon Asia side, where Troy stood, where are yet ruines of olde
walles to be seene, with two hils rising in a piramidall forme, not
vnlikely to be the tombs of Achilles and Ajax. From thence we sailed along,
hauing Tenedos and Lemnos on the right hand, and the Troian fields on the
left: at length we came to Mitylen and Sio long time inhabited by the
Genoueses, but now vnder the Turke. The Iland is beautified with goodly
buildings and pleasant gardens, and aboundeth with fruits, wine, and the
gum masticke. From thence sailing alongst the gulfe of Ephesus with Nicaria
on the right hand, Samos and Smirna on the left, we came to Patmos, where
S. Iohn wrote the Revelation. The Iland is but small, not aboue five miles
in compasse: the chiefe thing it yeeldeth is corn: it hath a port for
shipping, and in it is a monastery of Greekish Caloieros. From thence by
Cos (now called Lango) where Hipocrates was borne: and passing many other
Ilands and rocks, we arriued at Rhodes, one of the strongest and fairest
cities of the East: here we stayed three or foure dayes; and by reason of a
By which went in the ship to Paphos in Cyprus, who vsed me with all
kindnesse, I went about the city, and tooke the view of all: which city is
still with all the houses and walles thereof maintained in the same order
as they tooke it from the Rhodian knights. Ouer the doores of many of the
houses, which be strongly built of stone, do remaine vndefaced, the armes
of England, France, Spaine, and many other Christian knights, as though the
Turkes in the view thereof gloried in the taking of all Christendome, whose
armes they beholde. From thence we sailed to Paphos an olde ruinous towne
standing vpon the Westerne part of Cyprus, where S. Paul in the Acts
conuerted the gouernor. Departing hence, we came to Sidon, by the Turkes
called Saytosa, within tenne or twelue miles of the place where Tirus
stood, which now being eaten in by the sea, is, as Ezekiel prophesied, a
place for the spreading out of a net. Sidon is situated in a small bay at
the foot of mount Libanus, vpon the side of an hill looking to the North:
it is walled about, with a castle nigh to the sea, and one toward the land
which is ruinated, but the walle thereof standeth. Some halfe mile vp
toward the mountaine be certaine ruines of buildings, with marble pillars,
remaining: heere for three dayes we were kindly entertained of the Captaine
of the castle: and in a small barke we sailed from hence along the shore to
Tripoli, and so to Alexandretta, where the 24 of August we arriued. From
thence with a Venetian carauan we went by land to Aleppo, passing by
Antioch, which is seated vpon the side of an hill, whose walles still stand
with 360 turrets upon them, and neere a very great plaine which beareth the
name of the city, thorow which runneth the riuer Orontes, in Scripture
called Farfar. In Aleppo I stayed vntill February following; in this city,
as at a mart, meete many nations out of Asia with the people of Europe,
hauing continuall traffike and interchangeable course of marchandise one
with another: the state and trade of which place, because it is so well
knowen to most of our nation I omitte to write of. The 27 of February I
departed from Aleppo, and the fifth of March imbarked my selfe at
Alexandretta in a great ship of Venice called the Nana Ferra, to come to
England. The 14 we put into Salino in Cyprus, where the ship staying many
dayes to lade cotton wool, and other commodities, in the meane time
accompanied with M. William Barret my countrey man, the master of the ship
a Greeke, and others wee tooke occasion to see Nicosia, the chiefe city of
this Iland, which was some twenty miles from this place, which is situated
at the foot of an hill: to the East is a great plaine, extending it selfe
in a great length from the North to the South: it is walled about, but of
no such strength as Famagusta (another city in this Iland neere the Sea
side) whose walles are cut out of the maine rocke. In this city be many
sumptuous and goodly buildings of stone, but vninhabited; the cause whereof
doth giue me iust occasion to shew you of a rare iudgement of God vpon the
owners sometime of these houses, as I was credibly informed by a Cipriot, a
marcham of, great wealth in this city. [Sidenote: A great iudgement of God
vpon the noble men of Cyprus.] Before it came in subiection to the Turks,
while it was vnder the Venetians, there were many barons and noble men of
the Cipriots, who partly by vsurping more superiority ouer the common
people then they ought, and partly through their great reuenues which
yeerly came in by their cotton wooll and wines, grew so insolent and proud,
and withall so impiously wicked, as that they would at their pleasure
command both the wiues and children of their poore tenants to serue their
vncleane lusts, and holding them in such slauery as though they had beene
no better then dogges, would wage them against a grayhound or spaniell, and
he who woon the wager should euer after holde them as his proper goods and
chattels, to doe with them as he listed, being Christians as well as
themselues, if they may deserue so good a name. As they behaued themselues
most vnchristianly toward their brethren, so and much more vngodly (which I
should haue put in the first place) did they towards God: for as though
they were too great, standing on foot or kneeling to serue God, they would
come riding on horsebacke into the church to heare their masse: which
church now is made a publicke basistane or market place for the Turkes to
sell commodities in: but beholde the iudgement of the righteous God, who
payeth the sinner measure for measure. The Turkes the yeere before the
ouerthrowe giuen them at Lepanto by Don Iohn tooke Cyprus. These mighty
Nimrods fled some in holes and some into mountaines to hide themselues;
whereupon the Turkes made generall proclamation, that if they would all
come in and yeeld themselues, they would restore them to their former
reuenues and dignities: who not mistrusting the mischieuous pretense of the
Turkes, assembled together to make themselues knowen; whom after the Turkes
had in possession, they (as the Lords executioners) put them with their
wiues and children all to the sword, pretending thereby to cut of all
future rebellion, so that at this day is not one of the noble race knowen
aliue in the Iland, onely two or three remaine in Venice but of litle
wealth, which in the time of the warres escaped. After we had stayed in
this Iland some thirty dayes, we set saile in the foresayd shippe being
about the burthen of 900 tunnes, hauing in her passengers of diuers
nations, as Tartars, Persians, Iewes, and sundry Christians. Amongst all
which I had often conference with a Iew, who by reason of his many yeeres
education at Safet a place in Iudea neere Ierusalem, where they study the
Rabbines with some other arts as they thinke good, as also: for his trauels
into Persia and Ormus, he seemed to be of good experience in matters
abroad, who related vnto me such conference as he had with a Baniane at
Ormus, being one of the Indians inhabiting the countrey of Cambaia.
[Sidenote: Indians skilful in Astronomy.] This Baniane being a Gentile had
skill in Astronomie, as many of that nation haue, who by his books written
in his owne tongue and Characters, could tell the time of Eclipses both of
Sunne and Moone, with the Change and Full, and by iudgement in Astrologie
gaue answere to any question demanded. Being asked concerning his opinion
in religion, what he thought of God? He made answere that they held no
other god but the sun, (to which planet they pray both at the rising and
setting) as I haue seene sundry doe in Aleppo: his reason was drawen from
the effects which it worketh in giuing light to the moone and other
starres, and causing all things to grow and encrease vpon the earth:
answere was made, that it did moue with the rest as the wheeles of a
clocke, and therefore of force must haue a moouer. Likewise in the Eclipse
being darkened it is manifestly prooued that it is not god, for God is
altogether goodnesse and brightnesse, which can neither be darkened nor
receiue detriment or hurt: but the Sunne receiueth both in the Eclipse, as
is aparant: to which hee could not answere; but so they had receiued from
their ancestors, that it was without beginning or ende, as in any Orbicular
or round body neither beginning or end could be found. He likewise sayd,
that there were other Gentiles in the Indies which worship the moone as
chiefe, and their reason is. The moone when she riseth goeth with thousands
of starres accompanied like a king, and therefore is chiefe: but the Sunne
goeth alone, and therefore not so great. Against whom the Banianes reason,
that it is not true; because the Moone and starres receiue their light from
the Sunne, neither doth the Sunne vouchsafe them his company but when he
list, and therefore like a mighty prince goeth alone, yet they acknowledge
the Moone as Queene or Viceroy. Law they hold hone, but only seuen precepts
which they say were giuen them from their father Noe, not knowing Abraham
or any other. [Sidenote: The seven precepts of Banianes.] First, to honor
father and mother; secondly, not to steale; thirdly not to commit adultery;
fourthly not to kill any thing liuing; fiftly, not to eat any thing liuing;
sixtly not to cut their haire; seuenthly to go barefoot in their churches.
These they hold most strictly, and by no means will breake them: but he
that breaketh one is punished with twenty stripes; but for the greatest
fault they will kill none, neither by a short death nor a long, onely he is
kept some time in prison with very little meat, and hath at the most not
aboue twenty or fiue and twenty stripes. In the yeere they haue 16 feasts,
and then they go to their church, where is pictured in a broad table the
Sun, as we vse to paint it, the face of a man with beames round about, not
hauing any thing els in it. At their feast they spot their faces in diuers
parts with saffron all yellow, and so walke vp and downe the streets; and
this they doe as a custome. They hold, there shalbe a resurrection, and all
shall come to iudgement, but the account shalbe most streight, insomuch
that but one of 10000 shalbe receiued to fauor, and those shall liue againe
in this world in great happinesse: the rest shalbe tormented. And because
they will escape this iudgdment, when any man dieth, he and his wife be
both burnt together euen to ashes, and then they are thrown into a river,
and so dispersed as though they had neuer bene. If the wife will not burne
with her dead husband, she is holden euer after as a whore. And by this
meanes they hope to escape the iudgement to come. As for the soule, that
goeth to the place from whence it came, but where the place is they know
not. That the body should not be made againe they reason with the
philosophers, saying, that of nothing nothing can be made (not knowing that
God made the whole world and their god the Sun of nothing) but beholding
the course of nature, that nothing is made but by a meanes, as by the seed
of a man is made another, and by corne cast into the ground there commeth
vp new corne: so, say they, man cannot be made except some part of him be
left, and therefore they burne the whole: for if he were buried in the
earth, they say there is a small bone in the necke which would neuer be
consumed: or if he were eaten by a beast, that bone would not consume, but
of that bone would come another man; and then the soule being restored
againe, he should come into iudgement, whereas now the body being
destroyed, the soule shall not be iudged: for their opinion is, that both
body and soule must be vnited together, as they haue sinned together, to
receiue iudgement; and therefore the soule alone cannot. Their seuen
precepts which they keepe so strictly are not for any hope of reward they
haue after this life, but onely that they may be blessed in this world, for
they thinke that he which breaketh them shall haue ill successe in all his
businesse.
They say, the three chiefe religions in the world be of the Christians,
Iewes, and Turks, and yet but one of them true: but being in doubt which is
the truest of the three, they will be of none: for they hold that all these
three shall be iudged, and but few of them which be of the true shall be
saued, the examination shall be so straight; and therefore, as I haue sayd
before, to preuent this iudgement, they burne their bodies to ashes. They
say, these three religions haue too many precepts to keepe them all wel,
and therefore wonderfull hard it wil be to make account, because so few doe
obserue all their religion aright. And thus passing the time for the space
of three moneths in this sea voyage, we arriued at Venice the tenth of
Iune: and after I had seene Padua, with other English men, I came the
ordinary way ouer the Alpes, by Augusta, Noremberg and so for England;
where to the praise of God I safely arriued the ninth of August 1595.