CHAPTER LVII

HISTORY, THE CREOLE, AND HIS DUELS

Canal Street is to New Orleans much more than Main Street is to Buffalo,

much more than Broad Street is to Philadelphia, much more than Broadway

and Fifth Avenue are to New York, for Canal Street divides New Orleans

as no other street divides an American city. It divides New Orleans as

the Seine divides Paris, and there is not more difference between the

right bank of the Seine and the Latin Quarter than between American New

Orleans and Creole New Orleans: between the newer part of the city and

the _vieux carré_. The sixty squares ("islets" according to the Creole

idiom, because each block was literally an islet in time of flood) which

comprise the old French town established in 1718 by the Sieur de

Bienville, are unlike the rest of the city not merely in architecture,

but in all respects. The street names change at Canal Street, the

highways become narrower as you enter the French quarter, and the

pavements are made of huge stone blocks brought over long ago as ballast

in sailing ships. Nor is the difference purely physical. For though they

will tell you that this part of the city is not so French and Spanish as

it used to be, that it has run down, that large parts of it have been

given over to Italians of the lower class, and to negroes, it remains

not only in appearance, but in custom, thought and character, the most

perfectly foreign little tract of land in the whole United States. Long

ago, under the French flag, it was a part of the Roman Catholic

bishopric of Quebec; later under the Spanish flag, a part of that of

Havana; and it is charming to trace in old buildings, names, and customs

the signs of this blended French and Spanish ancestry.

La Salle, searching out a supposed route to China by way of the

Mississippi River, seems to have perceived what the New Orleans

Association of Commerce perceives to-day: that the control of the mouth

of the river ought to mean also the control of a vast part of the

continent. At all events, he took possession in 1682 in the name of the

French King, calling the river St. Louis and the country Louisiana. The

latter name persisted, but La Salle himself later rechristened the

river, giving it the name Colbert, thereby showing that in two attempts

he could not find a name one tenth as good as that already provided by

the savages. The "St. Louis River" might, from its name, be a fair-sized

stream, but "Colbert" sounds like the name of a river about twenty miles

long, forty feet wide at the mouth, and five feet deep at the very

middle.

La Salle intended to build a fort at a point sixty leagues above the

mouth of the river, but his expedition met with disaster upon disaster,

until at last he was assassinated in Texas, when setting out on foot to

seek help from Canada. In 1699 came Iberville, the Canadian, exploring

the river and fixing on the site for the future city. Iberville

established settlements at old Biloxi (now Ocean Springs) and Mobile,

but before he had time to make a town at New Orleans he caught yellow

fever at Havana, and died there. It therefore remained for his brother,

Bienville, actually to establish the town, and New Orleans is

Bienville's city, just as Detroit is Cadillac's, and Cleveland General

Moses Cleveland's.

Bienville's settlers were hardy pioneers from Canada, and presently we

find him writing to France: "Send me wives for my Canadians. They are

running in the woods after Indian girls." The priests also urged that

unless white wives could be sent out for the settlers, marriages with

Indians be sanctioned.

Having now a considerable investment in Louisiana, France felt that a

request for wives for the colony was practical and legitimate. Louisiana

must have population. A bonus of so much per head was offered for

colonists, and hideous things ensued: servants, children, and helpless

women were kidnapped, and the occupants of hospitals, asylums, and

houses of correction were assembled and deported. Incidentally it will

be remembered that out of these black deeds flowered "the first

masterpiece of French literature which can properly be called a novel,"

the Abbé Prévost's "Manon Lescaut," which has been dramatized and

redramatized, and which is the theme of operas by both Massenet and

Puccini. Though a grave alleged to be that of Manon used to be shown on

the outskirts of the city, there is doubt that such a person actually

existed, although those who wish to believe in a flesh-and-blood Manon

may perhaps take encouragement from the fact that the arrival in the

colony of a Chevalier des Grieux, in the year 1719, fourteen years

before the book appeared, has been established, and, further, that the

name of the Chevalier des Grieux may be seen upon a crumbling tomb in

one of the river parishes.

When the girls arrived they were on inspection in the daytime, but at

night were carefully guarded by soldiers, in the house where they were

quartered together. Miss Grace King, in her delightful book, "New

Orleans, the Place and the People," tells us that in these times there

were never enough girls to fill the demand for wives, and that in one

instance two young bachelors proposed to fight over a very plain

girl--the last one left out of a shipload--but that the commandant

obliged them to settle their dispute by the more pacific means of

drawing lots. As the place became settled Ursuline sisters arrived and

established schools. And at last, a quarter of a century after the

landing of the first shipment of girls, the curious history of female

importations ended with the arrival of that famous band of sixty

demoiselles of respectable family and "authenticated spotless

reputation," who came to be taken as wives by only the more prosperous

young colonists of the better class. The earlier, less reputable girls

have come down to us by the name of "correction girls," but these later

arrivals--each furnished by the Company of the West with a casket

containing a trousseau--are known to this day as _les filles à la

cassette_, or "casket girls."

A curious feature of this bit of history, as it applies to present-day

New Orleans, is that though one hears of many families that claim

descent from some nice, well-behaved "casket girl," one never by any

chance hears of a family claiming to be descended from a lady of the

other stock. When it is considered that the "correction girls" far

outnumbered their virtuous sisters of the casket, and ought, therefore,

by the law of averages, to have left a greater progeny, the matter

becomes stranger still, taking on a scientific interest. The explanation

must, however, be left to some mind more astute than mine--some mind

capable, perhaps, of unraveling also those other riddles of New Orleans

namely: Who was the mysterious chevalier who many years ago invented

that most delectable of _sucreries_, the praline, and whither did he

vanish? And how, although the refugee Duc d'Orleans (later Louis

Philippe of France) stayed but a short time in New Orleans, did he

manage to sleep in so many hundred beds, and in houses which were not

built until long after his departure? And why are so many of the signs,

over bars, restaurants, and shops, of that blue and white enamel one

associates with the signs of the Western Union Telegraph Company? And

why is the nickel as characteristic of New Orleans as is the silver

dollar of the farther Middle West, and gold coin of the Pacific

Slope--why, when one pays for a ten-cent purchase with a half-dollar,

does one receive eight nickels in change? Ah, but New Orleans is a

mysterious city!

Once, when the French and English were fighting for the possession of

Canada and New Orleans was depending for protection on Swiss

mercenaries, the French officer in command of these troops disciplined

them by stripping them and tying them to trees, where they were a prey

to the terrible mosquitoes of the Gulf. One day they killed him and

fled, but some of them were captured. These were taken back to New

Orleans, court-martialed, and punished according to the regulations:

they were nailed alive to their coffins and sawed in two.

Ceded to Spain by a secret clause in the Treaty of Paris, of which she

did not know until 1764, Louisiana could not believe the news. Even when

the Acadians, appeared, after having been so cruelly ejected from their

lands in what is now New Brunswick, Louisiana could not believe that

Louis XV would coldly cast off his loyal colony. The fact that he had

done so was not credited until a Spanish governor arrived. For three

years after, there was confusion. Then a strong force was sent from

Spain under Count O'Reilly, a man of Irish birth, but Spanish

allegiance, and the flag of Spain was raised. O'Reilly maintained

viceregal splendor; he invited leading citizens to a levee; here in his

own house he caused his soldiers to seize the group of prominent men who

had attempted to prevent the accomplishment of Spanish rule, and five

of these he presently caused to be shot as rebels.

Spanish governors came and went. The people settled down. At one time

Padre Antonio de Sedella, a Spanish Capuchin, arrived with a commission

to establish in the city the Holy office of the Inquisition, but he was

discouraged and shipped back to Cadiz. Miss King tells us that when,

half a century later, the calaboose was demolished, secret dungeons

containing instruments of torture were discovered.

On Good Friday, 1788, fire broke out, and as the priests refused to let

the bells be rung in warning, saying that all bells must be dumb on Good

Friday, the conflagration gained such headway that it could not be

checked, and a large part of the old French town was reduced to ashes.

Six years later another fire equally destructive, completed the work of

blotting out the French town, and the old New Orleans we now know is the

Spanish city which arose in its place: a city not of wood but of adobe

or brick, stuccoed and tinted, of arcaded walks, galleries, jalousies,

ponderous doors, and inner courts with carriage entrances from the

street, and, behind, the most charming and secluded gardens. Also, owing

to premiums offered by Baron Carondelet, the governor, tile roofs came

into vogue, so that the city became comparatively fireproof. Much of the

present-day charm of the old city is due also to the noble Andalusian,

Don Andreas Almonaster y Roxas, who having immigrated and made a great

fortune in the city, became its benefactor, building schools and other

public institutions, the picturesque old Cabildo, or town hall, which is

now a most fascinating museum, the cathedral, which adjoins the Cabildo,

and which, like it, faces Jackson Square, formerly the Place d'Armes. In

front of the altar of his cathedral Don Andreas is buried, and masses

are said, in perpetuity, for his soul. When the Don's young widow

remarried, she and her husband were pursued by a charivari lasting three

days and three nights--the most famous charivari in the history of a

city widely noted for these detestable functions. The Don's daughter, a

great heiress, became the Baronne Poñtalba and resided in magnificence

in Paris, where she died, a very old woman, in 1874.

In the Place d'Armes much of the early history of New Orleans, and

indeed, of Louisiana, was written. Here, and in the Cabildo, the

transfers from flag to flag took place, ending with the ceding of

Louisiana by Spain to France, and by France to the United States. At

this time New Orleans had about ten thousand inhabitants, most of the

whites being Creoles.

Harris Dickson, who knows a great deal about New Orleans, declared in an

article published some years ago, that outside lower Louisiana the word

"Creole" is still misunderstood, and added this definition of the term:

"A person of mixed French and Spanish blood, born in Louisiana." As I

understand it, however, the blood need not necessarily be mixed, but may

be pure Spanish or pure French, or again, there may be some admixture

of English blood. The word itself was, I am informed, originally

Spanish, and signified an American descended from Spaniards; later it

got into the language of the French West Indies, whence it was imported,

to Louisiana, about the end of the eighteenth century, by refugees who

arrived in considerable numbers from San Domingo, after the revolution

of the blacks there. Thus, the early French settlers did not use the

word.

If any misapprehension as to whether a Creole is a white person does

still exist, that misunderstanding is, I believe, to be traced to the

doors of an old-time cheap burlesque theater in Chicago, where the late

impresario, Sam T. Jack, put on a show in which mulatto women were

billed as "a galaxy of Creole beauties." This show traveled about the

country libeling the Creoles and doubtless causing many persons of that

class which attended Sam T. Jack's shows, to believe that "Creole" means

something like "quadroon." But when the show got to Baton Rouge the

manager was waited upon by a committee of citizens who said certain

things to him which caused him to give up his engagement there and

cancel any other engagements he had in the Creole country.

True, one frequently hears references in New Orleans to "Creole

mammies," and "Creole negroes," but the word used in that sense merely

indicates a negro who has been the servant of Creoles, and who speaks

French--"gombo French" the curious dialect is called. Similarly one

hears of "Creole ponies"--these being ponies of the small, strong type

used by the Cajan farmers. According to the Louisiana dialect

Longfellow's "Evangeline" was a Cajan, the word being a corruption of

"Acadian." About a thousand of these unfortunate expatriates arrived in

New Orleans between 1765 and 1768. Within a century they had multiplied

to forty times that number, spreading over the entire western part of

the State.

Much of the temperament, the gaiety, the sensitiveness of New Orleans

comes from the Creole. He was Latin enough to be a good deal of a

gambler, to love beautiful women, and on slight provocation to draw his

sword.

The street names of New Orleans--not only those of the French Quarter,

but of the whole city--reflect his various tastes. Many of the streets

bear the names of historic figures of the French and Spanish régimes;

Rampart Street, formerly the rue des Ramparts marks, like the outer

boulevards of Paris, the line of the old city wall. Other streets were

given pretty feminine names by the old Creole gallants: Suzette,

Celeste, Estelle, Angelie, and the like. The devout doubtless had their

share in the naming of Religious Street, Nuns Street, Piety Street,

Assumption Street, and Amen Street. The taste for Greek and Roman

classicism which developed in France at the time of the Revolution,

found its way to Louisiana, and is reflected in New Orleans by streets

bearing the names of gods, demi gods, the muses and the graces. The

pronunciation given to some of these names is curious: Melpomene,

instead of being given four syllables is called Melpomeen; Calliope is

similarly Callioap; Euterpe, Euterp, and so on. This, however, is the

result not of ignorance, but of a slight corruption of the correct

French pronunciations, the Americans having taken their way of

pronouncing the names from the French. The Napoleonic wars are

commemorated in the names of Napoleon Avenue, and Austerlitz and Jena

Streets, and the visit of Lafayette in the naming for him of both a

street and an avenue. But perhaps the most striking names of all the old

ones were Mystery Street, Madman's Street, Love Street (Rue de l'Amour),

Goodchildren Street (Rue des Bons Enfants), and above all those two

streets in the Faubourg Marigny which old Bernard Marigny amused himself

by naming for two games of chance at which, it is said, he had lost a

fortune--namely Bagatelle and Craps--the latter not the game played with

dice, but an old-time game of cards.

The French spoken by cultivated Creoles bears to the French of modern

France about the same relation as the current English of Virginia does

to that of England. Creole French is founded largely upon the French of

the seventeenth and early eighteenth century, just as many of the

so-called "Americanisms" of older parts of the country, including

Virginia and New England, are Elizabethan. The early English and French

colonists, coming to this country with the language of their times,

dropped, over here, into a linguistic backwater. In the mother

countries language continued to renew itself as it flowed along, by

elisions, by the adoption and legitimatizing of slang words (as for

instance the word "cab," to which Dean Swift objected on the ground that

it was slang for "cabriolet"), and by all the other means through which

our vocabularies are forever changing. But to the colonies these changes

were not carried, and such changes as occurred in the French and English

of America were, for the most part, separate and distinct (as exampled

by such Creole words as "banquette" for "sidewalk," in place of the

French word _trottoir_, and the word "baire," whence comes the American

term "mosquito bar.") The influence of colloquial French from Canada may

also be traced in New Orleans, and the language there was further

affected by the strange jargon spoken by the Creole negro--precisely as

the English dialect of negroes in other parts of the South may be said

to have affected the speech of all the Southern States.

Between the dialect of the Louisiana Cajan and that of the French

Canadian of Quebec and northern New York there is a strong resemblance;

but the Creole negro language is a thing entirely apart, being made up,

it is said, partly from French and partly from African word sounds, just

as the "gulla" of the South Carolina coast is made up from African and

English. The one is no more intelligible to a Frenchman than the other

to a Londoner. The ignorant Creole negro wishing to say "I do not

understand," would not say "moi je ne comprends pas," but "mo pas

connais"; similarly for "I am going away," he does not say, "je m'en

vais," but "ma pe couri"; while for "I have a horse," instead of "j'ai

un cheval," he will put the statement, "me ganyé choue." It is a dialect

lacking mood, tense, and grammar.

To this day one may occasionally see in New Orleans and in other lower

river towns an old "mammy" wearing the bandanna headdress called a

_tignon_, which, toward the end of the eighteenth century, was made

compulsory for colored women in Louisiana. The need for some such

distinguishing racial badge was, it is said, twofold. Yellow sirens from

the French West Indies, flocking to New Orleans, were becoming

exceedingly conspicuous in dress and adornment; furthermore one hears

stories of wealthy white men, fathers of octoroon or quadroon girls, who

sent these illegitimate daughters abroad to be educated. The latter, one

learns from many sources, were very often beautiful in the extreme, as

were also the Domingan girls, and history is full of the tales of the

curious, wild, fashionably caparisoned, declassé circle of society,

which came to exist in New Orleans through the presence there of so many

alluring women of light color and equally light character. Some of these

women, it is said, could hardly be distinguished from brunette whites,

and it was largely for this reason that the _tignon_ was placed by law

upon the heads of all women having negro blood.

No morsels from the history of old New Orleans are more suggestive to

the imagination than the hints we get from many sources of wildly

dissipated life centering around the notorious quadroon balls--or as

they were called in their day, _cordon bleu_ balls. An old guide book

informs me that the women who were the great attraction at these

functions were "probably the handsomest race of women in the world, and

were, besides, splendid dancers and finished dressers." Authorities seem

to agree that these balls were exceedingly popular among the young

Creole gentlemen, as well as with men visiting the city, and that duels,

resulting from quarrels over the women, were of common occurrence. If a

Creole had the choice of weapons slender swords called _colichemardes_

were used, whereas pistols were almost invariably selected by Americans.

Duels with swords were often fought indoors, but when firearms were to

be employed the combatants repaired to one of the customary dueling

grounds. Under the fine old live oaks of the City Park--then out in the

country--it is said that as many as ten duels have been fought in a

single day. Duels having their beginnings at the quadroon balls were,

however, often fought in St. Anthony's Garden, for the ballroom was in a

building (now occupied by a sisterhood of colored nuns) which stands on

Orleans Street, near where it abuts against the Garden. This garden,

bearing the name of the saint whose temptations have been of such

conspicuous interest to painters of the nude, is not named for him so

much in his own right, as because he was the patron of that same Padre

Antonio de Sedella, already mentioned, who came to New Orleans to

institute the Inquisition, but who, after having been sent away by

Governor Miro, returned as a secular priest and became much beloved for

his good works. Padre Antonio lived in a hut near the garden, and it is

he who figures in Thomas Bailey Aldrich's story "Père Antoine's Date

Palm."

To the Creole, more than to any other source, may be traced the origin

of dueling in the United States, and no city in the country has such a

dueling history as New Orleans. The American took the practice from the

Latin and by the adoption of pistols made the duel a much more serious

thing than it had previously been, when swords were employed and first

blood usually constituted "satisfaction." Up to the time of the Civil

War the man who refused a challenge became a sort of outcast, and I have

been told that even to this day a duel is occasionally fought. Governor

Claiborne, first American governor of Louisiana, was a duelist, and his

monument--a family monument in the annex of the old Basin Street

division of St. Louis cemetery--bears upon one side an inscription in

memory of his brother-in-law, Micajah Lewis, "who fell in a duel,

January 14, 1804."

Gayarré, in his history of Louisiana, tells a story of six young French

noblemen who, one night, paired off and fought for no reason whatever

save out of bravado. Two of them were killed.

Two famous characters of New Orleans, about the middle of the last

century, were Major Joe Howell, a brother-in-law of Jefferson Davis, and

Major Henry, a dare-devil soldier of fortune who had filibustered in

Nicaragua and fought in the Mexican War. One day while drinking together

they quarreled, and as a result a duel was arranged to take place the

same afternoon. Henry kept on drinking, but Howell went to sleep and

slept until it was time to go to the dueling ground, when he took one

cocktail, and departed.

Feeling that a duel over a disagreement the occasion for which neither

contestant could remember, was the height of folly, friends intervened,

and finally succeeded in getting Major Henry to say that the fight could

be called off if Howell would apologize.

"For what?" he was asked.

"Don't know and don't care," returned the old warrior.

As Howell would not apologize, navy revolvers were produced and the two

faced each other, the understanding being that they should begin at ten

paces with six barrels loaded, firing at will and advancing. At the word

"Fire!" both shot and missed, but Howell cocked his revolver with his

right thumb and fired again immediately, wounding Henry in the arm.

Henry then fired and missed a second time, while Howell's third shot

struck his antagonist in the abdomen. Wounded as he was, Henry managed

to fire again, narrowly missing the other, who was not only a giant in

size, but was a conspicuous mark, owing to the white clothing which he

wore. At this Howell advanced a step and took steady aim, and he would

almost certainly have killed his opponent had not his own second

reached out and thrown his pistol up, sending the shot wild. This

occurred after the other side has cried "Stop!"--as it had been agreed

should be done in case either man was badly wounded. A foul was

consequently claimed, the seconds drew their pistols, and a general

battle was narrowly averted. After many weeks Henry recovered.

A great number of historic duels were over politics. Such a one was the

fight which took place in 1843, between Mr. Hueston, editor of the Baton

Rouge "Gazette" and Mr. Alcee La Branche, a Creole gentleman who had

been speaker of the Louisiana House of Representatives, and was running

for Congress. Mr. La Branche was one of the few public men in the State

who had never fought a duel, and in the course of a violent political

campaign, Hueston twitted him on this subject in the columns of the

"Gazette," trying to make him out a coward. Soon after the insulting

article appeared, the two men met in the billiard room of the old St.

Charles Hotel, and when La Branche demanded an apology, and was refused,

he struck Hueston with a cane, or a cue, and knocked him down. A duel

was, of course, arranged, the weapons selected being double-barreled

shotguns loaded with ball. At the first discharge Hueston's hat and coat

were punctured by bullets. He demanded a second exchange of shots, which

resulted about as before--his own shots going wild, while those of his

opponent narrowly missed him. Hueston, however, obstinately insisted

that the duel be continued, and the guns were loaded for the third

time. In the next discharge the editor received a scalp wound. It was

now agreed by all present that matters had gone far enough, but Hueston

remained obdurate in his intention to kill or be killed, and in the face

of violent protests, demanded that the guns again be loaded. The next

exchange of shots proved to be the last. Hueston let both barrels go

without effect, and fell to the ground shot through the lungs. Taken to

the Maison de Santé, he was in such agony that he begged a friend to

finish the work by shooting him through the head. Within a few hours he

was dead.

The old guide book from which I gather these items cites, also, cases in

which duels were fought over trivial matters, such, for instance, as a

mildly hostile newspaper criticism of an operatic performance, and an

argument between a Creole and a Frenchman over the greatness of the

Mississippi River.

Professor Brander Matthews tells me of an episode in which the wit

exhibited by a Creole lawyer, in the course of a case in a New Orleans

court, caused him to be challenged. The opposing counsel, likewise a

Creole, was a great dandy. He appeared in an immaculate white suit and

boiled shirt, but the weather was warm, and after he had spoken for

perhaps half an hour his shirt was wilted, and he asked an adjournment.

The adjournment over, he reappeared in a fresh shirt, but this too

wilted presently, whereupon another adjournment was taken. At the end of

this he again reappeared wearing a third fresh shirt, and in it managed

to complete his plea.

It now became the other lawyer's turn. He arose and, speaking with the

utmost gravity, addressed the jury.

"Gentlemen," he said (Professor Matthews tells it in French), "I shall

divide my speech into three shirts." He then announced: "First

shirt"--and made his first point. This accomplished, he paused briefly,

then proclaimed: "Second shirt," and followed with his second point.

Then: "Third and last shirt," and after completing his argument sat

down. The delighted jury gave him the verdict, but his witticism

involved him in a duel with the worsted advocate. The result of this

duel Professor Matthews does not tell, but if the wag's _colichemarde_

was as swift and penetrating as his wit, we may surmise that his

opponent of the Code Napoléon and the code duello had a fourth shirt

spoiled.

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