CHAPTER XLI

A MISSISSIPPI TOWN

It was dark when, after a journey of one hundred and twenty miles at the

rate of twenty miles an hour, we reached Columbus, a city which was

never intended to be a metropolis and which will never be one.

Columbus is situated upon a bluff on the east bank of the Tombigbee

River, to the west of which is a very fertile lowland region, filled

with plantations, the owners of which, a century ago, founded the town

in order that their families might have churches, schools, and the

advantages of social life. As the town grew, a curious but entirely

natural community spirit developed; when a gas plant, water works, or

hotel was needed, prosperous citizens got together and financed the

enterprise, not so much for profit as for mutual comfort.

In these ante bellum times the planters used to make annual journeys to

Mobile and New Orleans, going by boat on the Tombigbee and taking their

crops and their families with them. After selling their cotton and

enjoying themselves in the city, they would load supplies for the

ensuing year upon river boats and return to Columbus, where the supplies

were transferred to their vast attic storerooms.

Though their only water transportation was to the southward, they did

not journey invariably in that direction, but sometimes made excursions

to such fashionable watering places as the Virginia Springs, or

Saratoga, to which they drove in their own carriages.

When, in the early days of railroad building, the Mobile & Ohio Railroad

was being planned, the company proposed to include Columbus as one of

its main-line points and asked for a right of way through the town and a

cash bonus in consideration of the benefits Columbus would derive from

railroad service. Both requests were refused. The railroad company then

waived the bonus and attempted to obtain a right of way by purchase. But

to no purpose. The citizens would not sell. They did not want a

railroad. They were prosperous and healthy, and they contended that a

railroad would bring poor people and disease among them, besides killing

farm animals and causing runaways. The company was consequently forced

to make a new survey, and when the line was built it passed at a

distance of a dozen miles or more from the city.

Gradually dawned the era of speed and impatience. People who had

hitherto been satisfied to make long journeys in horse-drawn vehicles,

and had refused the railroad a right of way, now began to complain of

the twelve-mile drive to the nearest station, and to suggest that the

company build a branch line into the town. But this time it was the

railroad's turn to say no, and Columbus was informed that if it wished a

branch line it could go ahead and build it at its own expense. This was

finally done at a cost of fifty thousand dollars.

With the construction of the branch line, carriages fell into disuse and

dilapidation, and many an old barouche, landau, and brett passed into

the hands of the negro hackmen who were former slaves of the old

families. Among these ex-slaves the traditions of the first families of

Columbus were upheld long after the war, and it thus happened that when,

a few years since, a young New Yorker, arriving for a visit in the town,

alighted from his train, he was greeted by an ancient negro who,

indicating an equally ancient carriage, cried: "Hack, suh! Hack, suh!

Ain't nevah been rid in by none but the Billupses."

Not every young man from the North would have understood this reference,

but by a coincidence it was at the residence of Mrs. Billups that this

one had come to visit.

Neither as to hack nor habitation were my companion and I so fortunate

as the earlier visitor. Our conveyance was a Ford, and the driver warned

us, as we progressed through shadowy tree-bordered streets, that the

Gilmer Hotel was crowded with delegates who had come to attend the State

convention of the Order of the Eastern Star. Nor was his warning without

foundation. The wide old-fashioned lobby of the Gilmer was hung with the

colors of the Order and packed with Ladies of the Eastern Star and their

ecstatic families; we managed to make our way through the press only to

be told by the single worn-out clerk on duty that not a room was to be

had.

Unlike the haughty clerk who had dismissed us from the Tutwiler Hotel in

Birmingham, the clerk at the Gilmer was not without the quality of

mercy. Overworked though he was, he began at once to telephone about the

town in an effort to secure us rooms. But if this led us to conclude

that our problem was thereby in effect solved, we discovered, after

listening to his brief telephonic conversations with a series of unseen

ladies, that the conclusion was premature. Though there were vacant

rooms in several private houses, strange stray males were not desired as

lodgers.

Concerned as we were over our plight, my companion and I could not help

being aware that a young lady who had been standing at the desk when we

came in, and had since remained there, was taking kindly interest in the

situation. Nor, for the matter of that, could we help being aware, also,

that she was very pretty in her soft black dress and corsage of

narcissus. She did not speak to us; indeed, she hardly honored us with a

glance; but, despite her sweet circumspection, we sensed in some subtle

way that she was sorry for us, and were cheered thereby.

After a time, when the clerk seemed to have reached the end of his

resources, the young lady hesitantly ventured some suggestions as to

other houses where rooms might possibly be had. These suggestions she

addressed entirely to the clerk--who, upon receiving them, did more

telephoning.

"Have you tried Mrs. Eichelberger?" the young lady asked him, after

several more failures.

He had not, but promptly did so. His conversation with Mrs. Eichelberger

started promisingly, but presently we heard him make the damning

admission he had been compelled repeatedly to make before:

"No, ma'am. It's two men."

Then, just as the last hope seemed to be fading, our angel of mercy

spoke again.

"Wait!" she put in impulsively. "Tell her--tell her I recommend them."

Thus informed, Mrs. Eichelberger became compliant; but when the details

were arranged, and we turned to thank our benefactor, she had fled.

Mrs. Eichelberger's house was but a few blocks distant from the Gilmer.

She installed us in two large, comfortable rooms, remarking, as we

entered, that we had better hurry, as we were already late.

"Late for what?" one of us asked.

"Didn't you come for the senior dramatics?"

"Senior dramatics where?"

"At the I.I. and C."

"What is the I.I. and C?"

At this question a look of doubt, if not suspicion, crossed the lady's

face.

"Where are you-all from?" she demanded.

The statement that we came from New York seemed to explain

satisfactorily our ignorance of the I.I. and C. Evidently Mrs.

Eichelberger expected little of New Yorkers. The I.I. and C., she

explained, was the Mississippi Industrial Institute and College,

formerly known as the Female College, a State institution for young

women; and the senior dramatics were even then in progress in the

college chapel, just up the street.

To the chapel, therefore, my companion and I repaired as rapidly as

might be, guided thither by frequent sounds of applause.

From among the seniors standing guard in cap and gown at the chapel

door, the quick artistic eye of my companion selected a brown-eyed

auburn-haired young goddess as the one from whom tickets might most

appropriately be bought. Nor did he display thrift in the transaction.

Instead of buying modest quarter seats he magnificently purchased the

fifty-cent kind.

The dazzling ticket seller, transformed to usher, now led us into the

crowded auditorium and down an aisle. A few rows from the stage she

stopped, and, fastening a frigid gaze upon two hapless young women who

were seated some distance in from the passageway, bade them emerge and

yield their place to us.

Of course we instantly protested, albeit in whispers, as the play was

going on. But the beautiful Olympian lightly brushed aside our

objections.

"They don't belong here," she declared loftily. "They're freshmen--and

they only bought quarter seats."

Then, as the guilty pair seemed to hesitate, she summoned them with a

compelling gesture and the command: "Come out!"

At this they arose meekly enough, whereupon we redoubled our protests.

But to no purpose. The Titian-tinted creature was relentless. Our pleas

figured no more in her scheme of things than if they had been babblings

in an unknown tongue. To add to our discomfiture, a large part of the

audience seemed to have perceived the nature of our dilemma, and was

giving us amused attention.

It was a crisis; and in a crisis--especially one in which a member of

the so-called gentle sex is involved--I have learned to look to my

companion. He understands women. He has often told me so. And now, by

his action, he proved it. What he did was to turn and flee, and I fled

with him; nor did we pause until we were safely hidden away in humble

twenty-five cent seats at the rear of the chapel, in the shadow of the

overhanging gallery.

It is not my intention to write an extended criticism of the

performance. For one thing, I witnessed only a fragment of it, and for

another, though I once acted for a brief period as dramatic critic on a

New York newspaper, I was advised by my managing editor to give up

dramatic criticism, and I have followed his advice.

The scene evidently represented a room, its walls made of red screens

behind which rose the lofty pipes of the chapel organ. On a pedestal at

one side stood a bust of the Venus de Milo, while on the other hung an

engraving of a familiar picture which I believe is called "The Fates,"

and which has the appearance of having been painted by some-one-or-other

like Leighton or Bouguereau or Harold Bell Wright.

After we had given some attention to the play my companion remarked

that, from the dialect, he judged it to be "Uncle Tom's Cabin." I had

been told, however, that for certain reasons "Uncle Tom's Cabin" is

never played in the South; I therefore asked the young man in front of

me what play it was. He replied that it was Booth Tarkington and Harry

Leon Wilson's comedy, "The Man From Home," and as he made the statement

openly, I feel that I am violating no confidence in repeating what he

said--especially since his declaration was supported by the program

which he showed me.

He was a pleasant young man. Perceiving that I was a stranger, he

volunteered the additional information that the masculine rôles, as well

as the feminine ones, were being played by girls; and I trust that I

will not seem to be boasting of perspicacity when I declare that there

had already entered my mind a suspicion that such was indeed the case.

Behold them! Gaze upon the character called Daniel Voorhees Pike! See

what long strides he takes, and with what pretty tiny feet! Observe the

manliness with which he thrusts his pink little hands deep in the

pockets of his--or somebody's--pantaloons!

Look at the Grand Duke Vasili of Russia, his sweet oval face and rosy

mouth partly obscured by mustache and goatee of a most strange

wooliness.

Observe the ineradicable daintiness of the Honorable Almeric St. Aubyn,

but more particularly attend to that villain of helpless loveliness, the

Earl of Hawcastle. The frightful life which, it is indicated, the Earl

has led, leaves no tell-tale marks upon his blooming countenance. His

only facial disfigurement consists in a mustache which, by reason of its

grand-ducal lanateness, seems to hint at a mysterious relationship

between the British and Russian noblemen.

Take note, moreover, of the outlines of the players. If ever earl was

belted it was this one. If ever duke in evening dress revealed

delectable convexities of figure, it was this duke. If ever worthy male

from Indiana spoke in a soprano voice and was lithe, alluring, and

recurvous, she was Daniel Voorhees Pike.

A young woman seated near us described to her escort the personal

characteristics of the various young ladies on the stage, and when we

heard her call one girl who played in a betrousered part, "a perfect

darling," we echoed inwardly the sentiment. All were darlings. And this

especial "perfect darling" appeared as well to be a "perfect

thirty-six."

The Earl was my undoing. At a critical point in the unfolding of the

plot there was talk of his having been connected with a scandal in St.

Petersburg. This he attempted to deny, and though I am unable to quote

the exact words of his denial, the sound of it lingers sweetly in my

memory. Nor would the exact words, could I give them, convey, in print,

the quality of what was said, for the Earl, and all the rest, spoke in

the soft, melodious tones of Mississippi.

"What you-all fussin' raound heah for, this mownin'?" That, perhaps,

conveys some sense of a line he spoke on entering.

And when, in reply, one of the others mentioned the scandal at St.

Petersburg, the flavor of the Earl's retort, as its cooing tones remain

with me, was this:

"Wha', honey! What you-all mean hintin' raound 'baout St. Petuhsbuhg? I

reckon you don' know what you talkin' 'baout! Ah nevuh was in that taown

in all ma bo'n days!"

What followed I am unable to relate, for the Earl's speech caused me to

become emotional, and my companion, after informing me severely that I

was making myself conspicuous, removed me from the chapel.

The auburn goddess was still on duty at the door as we went out.

Advancing, she placed in each of our hands a quarter. I regret to say

that, in my shaken state, I misinterpreted this action.

"Oh, no! _Please!_" I protested, fearing that she thought we had not

enjoyed the performance, and was therefore returning our money. "It

really wasn't bad at all. We're only going because we have an

engagement."

"Be quiet!" interrupted my companion in a savage undertone, jerking me

along by the arm. "It's only a rebate on the seats!" And without

allowing me a chance to set myself right he dragged me out.

American Adventures: A Second Trip 'Abroad at home' · 第 41 / 60 章