CHAPTER XXIX

HISTORY AND ARISTOCRACY

The cool shade of aristocracy....

--SIR W.F.P. NAPIER.

Just now, when we are being unpleasantly awakened to the fact that our

vaunted American melting-pot has not been doing its work; when some of

us are perhaps wondering whether the quality of metal produced by the

crucible will ever be of the best; it is comforting to reflect that a

city whose history, traditions and great names are so completely

involved with Americanism in its highest forms, a city we think of as

ultra-American, is peculiarly a melting-pot product.

The original Charleston colonists were English and Irish, sent out under

Colonel Sayle, in 1669, by the Lords Proprietors, to whom Charles II had

granted a tract of land in the New World, embracing the present States

of Georgia and North and South Carolina. These colonists touched at Port

Royal--where the Marine Barracks now are (and ought not to be)--but

settled on the west side of the Ashley River, across from where

Charleston stands. It was not until 1680 that they transferred their

settlement to the present site of the city, naming the place Charles

Town in honor of the King. In 1671 the colony contained 263 men able to

bear arms, 69 women and 59 children. In 1674, when New York was taken by

the English from the Dutch, a number of the latter moved down to the

Carolina colony. French Protestants had, at that time, already begun to

arrive, and more came after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in

1685. In 1680 Germans came. By 1684 there were four Huguenot settlements

in Carolina. In 1696 a Quaker was governor for a short time, and in the

same year a body of New Englanders arrived from Dorchester,

Massachusetts, establishing a town which they called Dorchester, near

the present town of Summerville, a few miles from Charleston. At that

time a number of Scottish immigrants had already arrived, though more

came in 1715 and 1745, after the defeat of the Highlanders. From 1730 to

1750 new colonists came from Switzerland, Holland and Germany. As early

as 1740 there were several Jewish families in Charleston, and some of

the oldest and most respected Jewish families in the United States still

reside there. Also, when the English drove the Acadians from Canada in

1755, twelve hundred of them immigrated to Carolina. By 1790, then, the

city had a population of a little more than 15,000, which was about half

the number of inhabitants then contained in the city of New York. In the

case of Charleston, however, more than one half her people, at that

time, were negroes, slavery having been introduced by Sir John Yeamans,

an early British governor. By 1850 the city had about 20,000 white

citizens and 23,000 blacks, and by 1880 some 7,500 more, of which

additional number two thirds were negroes. The present population is

estimated at 65,000, which makes Charleston a place of about the size of

Rockford, Illinois, Sioux City, Iowa, or Covington, Kentucky; but as, in

the case of Charleston, more than half this number is colored,

Charleston is, if the white population only is considered, a place of

approximately 30,000 inhabitants, or, roughly speaking, about the size

of Poughkeepsie, N.Y., or Colorado Springs, Colorado.

In area, also, Charleston is small, covering less than four square

miles. This is due to the position of the city on a peninsula formed by

the convergence and confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, which

meet at Charleston's beautiful Battery precisely as the Hudson River and

the East River meet at the Battery in New York. The shape of Charleston,

indeed, greatly resembles that of Manhattan Island, and though her

harbor and her rivers are neither so large nor so deep as those of the

port of New York, they are altogether adequate to a considerable

maritime activity.

The Charleston Chamber of Commerce (which, like everything else in

Charleston dates from long ago, having been founded in 1748) quotes

President Taft as calling this port the most convenient one to Panama--a

statement which the New Orleans Chamber of Commerce is in position to

dispute. The fact remains, however, that Charleston's position on the

map justifies the Chamber of Commerce's alliterative designation of the

place as "The Plumb-line Port to Panama." This is so true that if

Charleston should one day be shaken loose from its moorings by an

earthquake--something not unknown there--and should fall due south upon

the map, it would choke up the mouth of the Canal, were not Cuba

interposed, to catch the debris.

Before the Civil War, Charleston was the greatest cotton shipping port

of the country, and it still handles large amounts of cotton and rice.

Until a few years ago South Carolina was the chief rice producing State

in the Union, and history records that the first rice planted in the

Carolinas, if not in the country, was secured and sown by an early

governor of Carolina, Thomas Smith, who died in 1694. It may be noted in

passing that this Thomas Smith bore the title "Landgrave," the Lords

Proprietors, in their plan of government for the colony--which, by the

way, was drawn up by the philosopher Locke--having provided for a

colonial nobility with titles. The titles "Baron" and "Landgrave" were

hereditary in several Charleston families, and constitute, so far as I

know, the only purely American titles of nobility that ever existed.

Descendants of the old Landgraves still reside in Charleston, and in at

least one instance continue to use the word "Landgrave" in connection

with the family name.

The prosperity of Charleston since the Civil War has depended more,

perhaps, than on any other single product, upon the trade in phosphate,

large deposits of which underlie this region.

The real wonder of Charleston, the importance of the place among

American cities, cannot, however, be said to have resulted primarily

from commerce (though her commerce is growing), or from greatness of

population (though Charleston is the metropolis of the Carolinas), but

is involved with matters of history, tradition and beauty. The mantle of

greatness was assumed by this city in colonial times, and has never been

laid aside. Among the most distinguished early Americans were many

Charlestonians, and in not a few instances the old blood still endures

there, and even the old names: such names as Washington, Pinckney, Bull,

Pringle, Rutledge, Middleton, Drayton, Alston, Huger, Agassiz, Ravenel,

Izard, Gadsden, Rhett, Calhoun, Read, De Saussure, Lamar and Brawley, to

mention but a few.

* * * * *

Charleston's early history is rich in pirate stories of the most

thrilling moving-picture variety. Blackbeard, Stede Bonnet and other

disciples of the Jolly Roger preyed upon Charleston shipping. Bonnet

once held a Mr. Samuel Wragg of Charleston prisoner aboard his ship

threatening to send his head to the city unless the unfortunate man

should be ransomed--the demand being for medicines of various kinds.

Colonel Rhett, of Charleston, captured Bonnet and his ship after a

savage fight, but Bonnet soon after escaped from the city in woman's

clothing. Still later he was retaken, hanged, as he deserved to be, and

buried along with forty of his band at a point now covered by the

Battery Garden, that exquisite little park at the tip of the city, which

is the favorite promenade of Charlestonians. In another fight which

occurred just off Charleston bar, a crew of citizens under Governor

Robert Johnson defeated the pirate Richard Worley, who was killed in the

action, and captured his ship, which, when the hatches were opened

proved to be full of prisoners, thirty-six of them women. Even as late

as the period of the War of 1812--a war which did not affect Charleston

save in the way of destroying her shipping and causing poverty and

distress--a case of brutal piracy is recorded. The daughter of Aaron

Burr, Theodosia by name, was married to Governor Joseph Alston. After

her father's trial for high treason, when he was disgraced and broken,

she tried to comfort him, for the two were peculiarly devoted. Intending

to visit him she set sail from Charleston for New York in a ship which

was never heard from again. Somewhere I have read a description of the

distraught father's long vigils at New York, where he would stand gazing

out to sea long after all hope had been abandoned by others. Mrs. St.

Julien Ravenel tells us in her charming book, that thirty years later an

old sailor, dying in a village of the North Carolina coast, confessed

that he had been one of a pirate crew which had captured the ship and

compelled the passengers to walk the plank. This story is also given by

Charles Gayarré, who says the pirate chief was none other than Dominick

You, who fought under Jackson at the Battle of New Orleans, and is

buried in that city. The husband and father of Mrs. Alston were spared

the ghastly tale, Mrs. Ravenel says, since both were already in their

graves when the sailor's deathbed confession solved the mystery.

In the Revolution, Charleston played an important part. Men of

Charleston were, of course, among the signers of the Declaration of

Independence. Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, who gave us the immortal

maxim: "Millions for defense, but not one cent for tribute!" who was on

Washington's staff, was later Ambassador to France and president-general

of the Sons of the Cincinnati, was a Charlestonian of the

Charlestonians, and lies buried in St. Michael's. Such Revolutionary

names as Marion, Laurens, William Washington, Greene, Hampton, Moultrie

and Sumter are associated with the place, and two of these are reëchoed

in the names of those famous forts in Charleston harbor on which

attention was fixed at the outbreak of the Civil War: Moultrie and

Sumter--the latter, target for the first shot fired in the conflict.

Nearly thirty years before the Civil War, Charleston had distinguished

herself in the arts of peace by producing the first locomotive tried in

the United States, and by constructing the first consecutive hundred

miles of railroad ever built in the world, and now, with the War, she

distinguished herself by initiating other mechanical devices of very

different character--a semi-submersible torpedo boat and the first

submarine to torpedo a hostile war vessel. True, David Bushnell of

Connecticut did construct a crude sort of submarine during the

Revolutionary War, and succeeded in getting under a British ship with

the machine, but he was unable to fasten his charge of powder and his

effort consequently failed. Robert Fulton also experimented with

submarines, or "plunging boats" as he called them, and was encouraged

for a time by Napoleon I. The little _David_ of the Confederate navy is

sometimes referred to as the first submarine but the _David_ was not

actually an underwater boat, but a torpedo boat which could run awash,

with her funnels and upper works slightly out of water. She was a

cigar-shaped vessel thirty-three feet long, built of wood, propelled by

steam, and carrying her torpedo on a pole, forward. Dr. St. Julien

Ravenel of Charleston and Captain Theodore Stoney devised the craft, and

she was built by funds subscribed by Charleston merchants. In command of

Lieutenant W.T. Glassell, C.S.N., and with three other men aboard, she

torpedoed the United States ship _New Ironsides_, flagship of the fleet

blockading Charleston. The _New Ironsides_ was crippled, but not lost.

After this United States vessels blockading Charleston protected

themselves with booms. This resulted in the construction of an actual

undersea torpedo boat, the _Hunley_. This extraordinary vessel has been

spoken of as having had the appearance of a huge iron coffin, as well as

the attributes of one, for she proved a death-trap for successive crews

on three trial trips. As there were no electric motors or gasoline

engines in those days, she was run by hand, eight men crowded together

turning a crank-shaft which operated her propeller. After repeated

sinkings, she was raised, manned by new men, and sent forth again.

Finally, in Charleston harbor she succeeded in destroying the United

States man-o'-war _Housatonic_, but at the same time went down, herself,

drowning or suffocating all on board. A memorial drinking fountain on

the Battery, at the foot of Meeting Street, commemorates "the men of the

Confederate Army and Navy, first in marine warfare to employ torpedo

boats--1863-1865." On this memorial are given the names of sixteen men

who perished in torpedo attacks on the blockading fleet, among them

Horace L. Hunley, set down as inventor of the submarine boat. The names

of fourteen others who were lost are unknown.

* * * * *

Lord William Campbell, younger son of the Duke of Argyll, was British

governor at Charleston when the Revolution broke out. He had married a

Miss Izard, of Charleston, who brought him a dowry of fifty thousand

pounds, a large sum in those times. Their home was in a famous old house

which stands on Meeting Street, and it was from the back yard of this

house that Lord William fled in a rowboat to a British man-o'-war, when

it became evident that Charleston was no longer hospitable to

representatives of the Crown. Later his wife followed him to Great

Britain, where they remained.

The Pringle House, as it is now called, formerly the Brewton house,

perhaps the most superb old residence in the city, was the headquarters

of General Sir Henry Clinton, after he had captured Charleston, and was

the residence of Lord Rawdon, the unpleasant British commander who

succeeded Clinton. Cornwallis lived outside the town at Drayton Hall,

which still stands, on the Ashley River. After his capture Cornwallis

was exchanged for Henry Laurens, a distinguished Charlestonian, who,

though he wept over the Declaration of Independence, was before long

president of the Continental Congress, and later went to France, where

he was associated with Benjamin Franklin, John Jay and John Adams in

negotiating the treaty of peace and independence for America.

Mrs. Ravenel says in her book that Sherman destroyed all but one of the

superb old houses on the Ashley River, and when we consider that

Sherman's troops invested Charleston just before the end of the War, and

reflect upon the general's notorious "carelessness with fire," we have

cause for national rejoicing that Charleston, with its unmatched

buildings and their splendid contents, was not laid in ashes, as were

Atlanta and Columbia. Had Sherman burned Charleston it would be hard for

even a Yankee to forgive him.

Even without the aid of the Northern general, the city has been able to

furnish disastrous conflagrations of her own, over a period of two

centuries and more, and I find in the quaint reminiscences of Charles

Fraser, already alluded to, a lamentation that, because of fires, many

of the old landmarks have disappeared, and the city is "losing its look

of picturesque antiquity." To make matters worse, there came, in 1886,

an earthquake, rendering seven eighths of the houses uninhabitable until

repairs aggregating some millions of dollars had been made. Up to the

time of the earthquake the old mansion from which Lord William Campbell

fled at the beginning of the Revolution, was adorned by a battlemented

roof. It is recorded that when the shock came, an Englishman was in the

house, and that in his eagerness to get outdoors he pushed others aside.

As he reached the front steps, however, the battlements came crashing

down. He was the one person from that house who perished, and his only

monument is the patch of comparatively new stone where the broken steps

have been repaired.

* * * * *

My companion and I achieved entrance to one of the famous old Charleston

houses which we had been particularly anxious to see, through the

kindness of a lady to whom we had a letter of introduction, who happened

to be a relative of the owner of the house.

It seems necessary to explain, at this juncture, that in Charleston,

many proper names of foreign origin have been corrupted in

pronunciation. A few examples will suffice: The Dutch name Vanderhorst,

conspicuous in the early annals of the city, has come to be pronounced

"Van-Dross"; Legaré, the name of another distinguished old family,

commemorated in the name of Legaré Street, is pronounced "Legree"; De

Saussure has become "Dess-a-sore," with the accent on the first

syllable, and Prioleau is called "Pray-low."

I was unaware of these matters when my companion and I visited the

ancient house I speak of. Though I had heard the name of the proprietor

of the mansion spoken many times, and recognized it as a distinguished

Charleston name, I had never seen it written; however, without having

given the matter much thought, I had, unfortunately, reached my own

conclusions as to how it was spelled. Still more unfortunately, while I

was delighting in the drawing-room of that wonderful old house, with the

portraits of ladies in powdered hair and men in cocked hats and periwigs

looking down upon me from the walls, I was impelled to reassure myself

as to the spelling of the name. Let us assume that the name sounded like

"Bowfee." That was not it but it will suffice for illustration.

"I suppose," I said to our charming cicerone, "that the family name is

spelled 'B-o-w-f-e-e'?"

I had no sooner spoken than I realized, with a sudden access of horror

what I had done. In guessing I had sinned, but in guessing wrong I had

ruined myself. All this came to me instantly and positively, as by a

psychic message of unparalleled definiteness from the dead ancestors

whose portraits hung upon the paneling. It was as though they had joined

in a great ghostly shout of execration, which was the more awful because

it was a silent shout that jarred upon the senses rather than the ear

drums. Then, before the lady replied, while the sound of my own voice

saying "B-o-w-f-e-e" seemed to reverberate through the apartment, I

suddenly comprehended the spirit of Charleston: understood that,

compared with Charleston, Boston is as a rough mining camp, while New

York hardly exists at all, being a mere miasma of vulgarity.

There was a long silence, in which the lady to whom I had spoken gazed

from the window at the rainy twilight. Her silence, I am persuaded, was

not intended to rebuke me; she was not desirous of crushing me; she was

merely stunned. Indeed, when at last she spoke, there was in her tone

something of gentleness.

"The name," she said, "is Beaufoy--B-e-a-u-f-o-y. It is of Huguenot

origin."

Passionately I wished for an earthquake--one that might cause the floor

to open beneath me, or the roof to fall through and blot me from her

sight. How to get away?--that was my one thought. To cover my

embarrassment, I tried to make small-talk about a medallion of an

Emperor of France, which hung upon the paneling. The lady said it had

been given to an ancestor of the Beaufoys by the Emperor himself. That,

for some reason, seemed to make things rather worse. I wished I had not

dragged the Emperor into the conversation.

"It is getting dark," I said. "It is time we were going."

This the lady did not dispute.

Of our actual farewells and exit from that house, I remember not a

detail, save that, as we departed, I knew that we should never see this

lady again; that for her I no longer existed, and that in my downfall I

had dragged my companion with me. The next thing I definitely recollect

is walking swiftly up Meeting Street beside him, in the rain and

darkness of late afternoon. All the way back to the hotel we strode side

by side in pregnant silence; neither did we speak as we ascended to our

rooms.

Some time later, while I was dressing for dinner, he entered my

bedchamber. At the moment, as it happened, I was putting cuff-links into

a dress shirt. With this task I busied myself, dreading to look up. In

the meantime I felt his eyes fixed upon me. When the links were in, I

delayed meeting his gaze by buttoning the little button in one

sleeve-vent, above the cuff.

"Do you mean to say you button those idiotic little buttons?" he

demanded. "I didn't know that anybody ever did that!"

"I don't always," I answered apologetically.

"I should hope not!" he returned. Then he continued: "Do you remember

where we are to be taken to-morrow?"

"Yes," I said. "To the Pringle house."

"Well," said he, "I just came in to ask you, as a favor, not to get off

any fanciful ideas that you may have thought up, about the way to spell

Pringle."

American Adventures: A Second Trip 'Abroad at home' · 第 29 / 60 章