CHAPTER XV

THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA

The opening of the University of Virginia was an event of prime

importance for the higher education in the whole country, and

really marks a new era.

--CHARLES FORSTER SMITH.

Like Monticello, the buildings of the University of Virginia are those

of an intellectual, a classicist, a purist, and, like it, they might

have been austere but for the warmth of their red brick and the glow of

their white-columned porticos. But they are cheerful buildings, which,

individually and as a group, attain a geometrical yet soft perfection, a

supreme harmony of form and color.

The principal buildings are grouped about a large campus, called the

Lawn, which is dominated by the rotunda, suggesting in its outlines the

Pantheon at Rome. From the rotunda, at either side, starts a

white-columned arcade connecting the various houses which are

distributed at graceful intervals along the margins of the rectangular

lawn, above which loom the tops of even rows of beautiful old trees.

Flanking the buildings of the lawn, and reached by brick walks which

pass between the famous serpentine walls (walls but one brick thick

which support themselves on the snake-fence principle, by progressing in

a series of reverse curves), are the "ranges": solid rows of one-story

student dormitories built of brick and fronted by colonnades which

command other lawns and other trees.

With a single exception, restorations and additions to the university

have been made with reverence and taste, and the Brooks Museum, the one

architectural horror of the place, fortunately does not stand upon the

lawn. Since it is said that beauty could not exist were there not

ugliness for contrast, this building may have its uses; certainly, after

a glance at it, one looks back with renewed delight at the structures of

the central group.

Most superb of all, always there hangs at night, above the buildings and

the tree-tops, a glorious full moon. At least I suppose it always hangs

there, for though it seemed to us very wonderful, every one else seemed

used to it.

Like Venice, the University of Virginia should first be seen by

moonlight. There could not have been a finer moonlit night, I thought,

than that cold, crisp one upon which my companion stood for two hours

beside the rotunda, gazing at the lawn and drawing it, its frosty grass

and trees decked with diamonds, its white columns standing out softly

from their shadow backgrounds like phosphorescent ghosts in the luminous

blue darkness. Until I was nearly frozen I stayed there with him. That

drawing cost him one of the worst colds he ever had.

The university ought to have, and has, many traditions, and life there

ought to be, and is, different from life in any other college. Jefferson

brought from Italy the men who carved the capitals of the columns (the

descendants of some of these Italian workmen live in Charlottesville

to-day), and when the columns were in place he brought from Europe the

professors to form the faculty, creating what was practically a small

English university in the United States. Never until, a dozen years ago,

Dr. E.A. Alderman became president, had there been such an office;

before that time the university had a rector, and the duties of

president were performed by a chairman of the faculty, elected by the

faculty from among its members. This was the first university to adopt

the elective system, permitting the students, as Jefferson wrote,

"uncontrolled choice in the lectures they shall attend," instead of

prescribing one course of reading for all. No less important, the

University of Virginia was the first college to introduce (1842) the

honor system, and still has the most complete honor system to be found

among American colleges. This system is an outgrowth of the Jeffersonian

idea of student self-government; under it each student signs, with

examination papers, a pledge that he has neither given nor received

assistance. That is found sufficient; students are not watched, nor need

they be. With time this system has been extended, so that it now covers

not only examinations, but many departments of college life, eliminating

professionalism in athletics and plagiarism in literary work, and

resulting in a delightful mutual confidence between the student body and

the faculty.

Madison and Monroe were active members of the university's first board

of visitors; the first college Y.M.C.A. was started there; and among

many famous men who have attended the university may be mentioned Edgar

Allan Poe, Thomas Nelson Page, and Thomas Woodrow Wilson, whose name

appears thus upon the "University Magazine" for 1879-80, as one of its

three editors. The ill-starred Poe attended the university for only one

year, at the end of which time his adopted father, Mr. Allan, of

Richmond, withdrew him because of debts he had contracted while

acquiring his education in gambling and drinking champagne. Poe's former

room, No. 13 West Range, is now the office of the magazine.

The clean, lovely manuscript in Jefferson's handwriting, of the first

Anglo-Saxon grammar written in the United States, is to be seen in the

university library; Jefferson was Vice-President of the United States

when he wrote it; he put Anglo-Saxon in the first curriculum of the

university, and it has been taught there ever since. In a note which is

a part of the manuscript, he advocates the study of Anglo-Saxon as an

introduction to modern English on the ground that though about half the

words in our present language are derived from Latin and Greek, these

being the scholarly words, the other half, the words we use most often,

are Anglo-Saxon.

Before the war it was not uncommon for students at the university to

have their negro body servants with them, and it has occasionally

happened since that some young sprig of southern aristocracy has come

to college thus attended.

Perhaps the most striking and characteristic feature of student life

to-day, from the point of view of the stray visitor, is the formal

attitude of students toward one another. There is no easy-going

casualness between them, no calling back and forth, no "hello," by way

of greeting. They pass each other on the walks either without speaking

(men have been punished at the university by being ignored by the entire

student body), or if they do greet each other the customary salutation

is "How are you, sir?" or "How are you, gentlemen?" First-year men are

expected to wear hats, and not to speak to upper classmen until they

have been spoken to; and, though there is no hazing at the university,

woe betide them if they do not heed these rules.

In the early days of the university there was an effort to exercise

restraint over students, to make them account for their goings and

comings, and to prevent their going to taverns or betting upon horse

races. Also they were obliged to wear a uniform. The severity was so

great that they appealed to Jefferson, who sided with them. He, however,

died in the same year, and friction prevailed for perhaps a decade

longer, with many student disorders, culminating in the shooting of a

professor by a student. In 1840 the students were at last granted full

freedom, and two years later the honor system was adopted.

During the university's first years young men from the far South, where

dueling was especially prevalent, did not come in large numbers to the

University of Virginia, but went, as a rule, to the northern colleges,

but about the middle of the century, as feeling between North and South

over taxation, States' Rights and slavery became more acute, these men

began to flock to the college at Charlottesville. Between 1850 and 1860

the university almost doubled in size, and at about the same time there

developed a good deal of dueling between students.

When the War ended many men who had gone into the Confederate army at

sixteen or seventeen years of age came to Charlottesville to complete

their education. The hard life of the army had made some of these into a

wild lot, and there was a great deal of gambling and drinking during

their time, and also after it, for several succeeding generations of

students looked up to the ex-soldiers as heroes, and carried on the

unfortunate traditions left by them at the university. In the nineties,

however, a change came, and though there is still some drinking and

gambling, it is doubtful whether such vices are now more prevalent at

the University of Virginia than at many other colleges. The honor system

has never been extended to cover these points.

It is related that, in Poe's time, gambling became such a serious

obstacle to discipline and work that the university authorities set the

town marshal after a score or so of gambling students, Poe among them,

whereupon these students fled to the Ragged Mountains, near by, and

remained for two weeks, during which time Poe is said to have mightily

entertained them with stories and prophecies, including a forecast of

the Civil War, in which, he declared, two of the youths present would

fight on opposite sides.

The Poe tradition is kept vigorously alive at the university. Not long

ago a member of the Raven Society, one of the rather too numerous

student organizations, discovered the burial place of Poe's mother, who

was an actress, and who died penniless in Richmond at the age of

twenty-four and was buried with the destitute. By a happy inspiration a

fund was raised among the students for the erection of a monument to

her--an example of fine and chivalrous sentiment on the part of these

young men, which, one feels, is somehow delicately intertwined with the

traditions of the honor system.

The Poe professor of English at the university, when we were there, was

Dr. C. Alphonso Smith, who has since taken the professorship of English

at the United States Naval Academy. By a coincidence which has proved a

happy one for those who love the stories of the late Sidney Porter (O.

Henry), Dr. Smith grew up as a boy with Porter, in Greensboro, North

Carolina. Because of this, and also because of Dr. Smith's own gifts as

a writer and an analyst, it is peculiarly fitting that he should have

undertaken the work which has occupied him for several years past, the

result of which has recently been given to us in the form "The O. Henry

Biography."

Dr. Smith was Roosevelt exchange professor at the University of Berlin

in 1910-11, holding the chair of American History and Institutions.

While occupying that professorship he met the Kaiser.

"I talked with him twice," he said, "and upon the second occasion under

very delightful circumstances, for I was invited to dinner at the Palace

at Potsdam, and was the only guest, the Kaiser, Kaiserin, and Princess

Victoria Luise being present.

"The Kaiser is, of course, a very magnetic man. His eyes are his most

remarkable feature. They are very large, brilliant, and sparkling, and

he rolls them in a manner most unusual. While he is always the king and

the soldier, he can be genial and charming. One might expect a man in

his position to be blasé, but that, most of all, is what he is not. He

is like a boy in his vitality and vividness, and he has a great and

persistent intellectual curiosity. It is this, I think, which used to

cause him to be compared with Colonel Roosevelt. Both would like to know

all things, and both have had, and have exercised more, perhaps, than

any other two living men, the power to bring to themselves the central

figures in all manner of world events, and thus learn at first hand,

from acknowledged authorities, about the subjects that interest

them--which is to say, everything.

"He frankly admired America. I don't mean that he said so for the sake

of courtesy to me, but that he has--or did have, then--an immense and

rather romantic interest in this country. A great many Germans used to

resent this trait in him. America held in his mind the same romantic

position that the idea of monarchy did in the minds of some of us. I

mean that the average American went for romance to stories of monarchy,

but that the Kaiser, being used to the monarchial idea, found his

romance over here. (I am, of course, speaking of him as he was five or

six years ago.) He wished to come to America, but was never able to do

so, since German law forbids it. And, perhaps because he could not come,

America was the more a sort of dream to him.

"He asked me about some of the things in Berlin which I had noticed as

being different from things at home, and when I mentioned the way that

history was kept alive in the very streets of Berlin, his eyes danced,

and he said that was one of the things he had tried to accomplish by the

erection of the numerous monuments which have been placed in Berlin

during his reign. He told me of other means by which history was kept

alive in Germany: among them that every officer has to know in detail

the history of his regiment, and that German regiments always celebrate

the anniversaries of their great days.

"He speaks English without an accent, though we might say that he spoke

it with an English accent. He told me that he had learned English before

he learned German, and had also caused his children to learn it first.

He reads Mark Twain, or had read him, and he enjoyed him, but he said

that when he met Mark Twain the latter had little or nothing to say, and

that it was only with the greatest difficulty that he got him to talk at

all. He subscribed, he told me, to 'Harper's Magazine,' and he was in

the habit of reading short stories aloud to his family, in English. He

admired the American short story, and I remember that he declared: 'The

Americans know how to plunge into a short story. We Germans are too

long-winded.'"

When Professor Smith talks about the Kaiser, you say to yourself: "I

know that it is growing late, but I cannot bear to leave until I have

heard the rest of this"; when he drifts presently to O. Henry, you say

the same; and so it is always, no matter what his subject. At last,

however, the grandfather's clock in the hall below his study sends up a

stern message which is not to be mistaken, whereupon you arise

reluctantly from your comfortable chair, spill the cigar ashes out of

your lap onto the rug, dust off your clothing, and take your leave. Nor

is your regret at departing lessened by the fact that you must go to

your bilious-colored bedroom in the New Gleason, and that you will not

see the university, or Professor C. Alphonso Smith, or Mrs. Smith again,

because you are leaving upon the morrow.

So it must always be with the itinerant illustrator and writer. They are

forever finding new and lovely scenes only to leave them; forever making

new and charming friends only to part with them, faring forth again into

the unknown.

American Adventures: A Second Trip 'Abroad at home' · 第 15 / 60 章