In his notice of Westbury church, Aubrey remarks:--

"In an aisle, north of the chancel where nothing remains of the

old glass, tradition is that two maydes of Brook built it

(probably Alice and Joan coheiresses of Sir John Paveley (1361)

of Brook,--the one married Sir John St. Loe, the other Sir John

Cheney). In a chappelle south of the chancell, are left in one

windowe some _Rudders of Ships_ or the cognizance of the Lord

Willoughby of Brook. In an aisle north of the tower, called

Leversidge aisle, were these two escutcheons now gone,

viz.--Cheney impaling Paveley, Cheney as before impaling _a lion

ramp_: quartering _a cross flory_, not coloured."

How surely and regularly history, at least the history of human nature

repeats itself. Our forefathers, as it is often discovered in the

repair or rebuilding old churches, did not scruple when alteration or

enlargement of the fabric was needed, to break up the gravestones, or

coffin-lids, of their predecessors, this also at the period when a

religious thrall exercised its full power over them, while at the same

time it encouraged the laying down similar memorials to those they

were destroying. In a succeeding age when this influence had lost its

spell, and greedy, selfish ends, had absorbed, or stifled completely

such traces as remained, a remorseless and almost revengeful

desecration followed, buildings were razed, monuments ruthlessly

defaced or destroyed, and sepulchres violated, as if those who had

left them such interesting and sacred heritage, had been a succession

of malefactors deserving the utmost reprobation and contempt. The

great despoliation over, the same spirit of heedless, callous

unconcern, although in lesser degree, has shewn itself as largely

existent through the succeeding centuries, down to these later times

of pseudo-ecclesiastical revival, which in too many instances

continues to exhibit in a still more exaggerated form, all the latent

traits of thoughtless destruction, that had its place in days of old.

Thus much for our investigation of Westbury church and its garishly

garnished Chantry, but before we leave this part of the world, we have

another interesting structure to visit, where, if we mistake not, a

most important memorial concerning the antient lords of Broke Hall is

to be found.

Our steps lead us out of Westbury by the north west, and passing along

under the great White Horse, boldly figured on the high hill by our

right, and through the village of Bratton, a turn in the road a short

distance beyond, brings us at once in full view of the large and

antient Conventual Church of Edington. It is no province of ours here,

to describe the great architectural attractions of this fine and still

well-preserved fabric, but a glance at the uniquely-shaped tower

windows, gives us a clue to what we may expect to find within, for the

tracery in their heads, have an unmistakable resemblance to a _cross

fleurie_, or rather _recercelee_ would best describe its shape, the

coat-armour of the family of Paveley.

Entering the church by the south porch, a survey of the south aisle

arcade, brings the eye at once to the memorial we are in search of.

The monument is under the second arch of the nave, west of the

transept, in the south aisle. It consists of a high tomb with canopy,

flanked by an entrance-doorway forming part of one composition,

extending the whole breadth of the arch. This was originally one of

the enclosing screens of a Chantry, the other two, east and west,

dividing it from the aisle having been removed. In the wall of the

aisle opposite the tomb, is a two-storied piscina, which was formerly

within the area of the Chantry, and against the east division

doubtless stood the antient altar.

The cover-stone of the tomb is Purbeck marble, and on it are the

indents of a knight and lady, but not of large size. The knight's head

appears to have rested on a helmet with lambrequin, and an animal was

at his feet. The lady in long robe and head on a cushion. Two shields

were above their heads, and two more below their feet. There was no

ledger-line.

Below the tomb are traceried panels with shields in their centres, on

them is carved these arms:--1. _A rudder._--2. _Four fusils in fess,

each charged with an escallop_ (CHENEY).--3. _Four escallops, two and

two_ (ERLEIGH?). These charges are exactly repeated on both sides.

The canopy is of square form, flanked by buttresses pinnacled on their

faces, and the groining within shews five fan-traceried pendants. At

the east end is a large niche, the west is open. The doorway is

surmounted by a rich ogee crocketted canopy with finial, and is

panelled above.

A continuous cornice surmounts both tomb and doorway, of vine foliage

and mouldings, crested originally by the Tudor flower, only a part of

which now remains. It is broken on each side by four angels holding

shields. On the north side are two single angels supporting the arms

of Cheney, at the west corner are two angels holding a larger shield

quarterly of four:--1 and 4 (CHENEY); 2 and 3, _a cross fleurie_

(PAVELEY). On the south side the single angels display the arms of

Paveley, and the pair at the end Cheney impaling Paveley. Over the

inner doorway _the rudder_ is again carved--here at Edington its

earliest appearance.

In the churchyard, near the porch, is a large broken Purbeck marble

stone, probably removed from the pavement of the Chantry within.

On it are the indents of a knight, and lady in horned head-dress,

under an ogee crocketted canopy, flanked by pinnacles, evidently of

contemporary date with the tomb. Above the figures are two shields,

below their feet the space is powdered with scrolls, and a ledger-line

enclosed the whole.

[Illustration: CHENEY MONUMENT, EDINGTON CHURCH, WILTSHIRE.]

As usual with influential families resident near large ecclesiastical

foundations, and having considerable landed property in the district,

the Paveleys, who were the Lords of Westbury Hundred, were doubtless

largely connected with the welfare of the Monastery, and as liberal

donors toward the building of the Abbey Church. The armorial story

told on the tomb, points to its being the memorial of Sir Ralph

Cheney, who married Joan, one of the daughters and coheiresses of Sir

John Paveley, and succeeded in her right to Broke. He died 2 Henry

IV., 1401. The great William of Edington, consecrated Bishop of

Winchester, 1345, and afterward Chancellor and Treasurer to King

Edward III., was born here, and became a considerable benefactor to

the village and Monastery. His surname has not been recovered, but

surmised to have been Cheney,--at any rate in a deed dated 1361, the

Bishop is described as "guardian of the heiresses of Sir John

Paveley,"--and one of these, Joan, as we have observed, married Sir

Ralph Cheney, and as a consequence with great probability she found

sepulchre here with her husband, in their Chantry in the Abbey Church.

Back to the railway station again, and a place among the cohort of the

iron horse, for a long journey is before us, even from the open,

breezy chalk-plains of Wiltshire, to the marge of the majestic Tamar

in westernmost Devon, and the granite-bouldered precincts of east

Cornwall, where we hope to get further clue to the haunts of

Willoughby when in the flesh. Here, we are leaving what was probably

his first home and earliest associations before ambition dawned on his

future path; there, we shall visit his later possessions when the sun

of fortune had shone on him, and he basked in its rays of honours and

wealth. There also our pilgrimage will eventually lead us to that last

house, the which he in common with earth's humblest denizen must

share.

Before, however, we proceed further on our way to what we may term his

second home, it behoves us to say something anent the antecedents and

coming of the knight himself, and how the name of Willoughby

originally became located in the west country. Like many a younger son

rejoicing in a titled extraction, coupled with probably only a slender

portion of the family patrimony, the wooing of a distaff--who, beside

let us hope, being endowed with her full share of love's talisman,

personal attractions, enjoyed also the further potent charm of being

an heiress to boot--brought the father of our knight from the fens of

Lincolnshire to the distant altitudes of Wilts, and in winning the

hand of Anne Cheney for a wife, subsequently became in her right the

Lord of Broke. A similar errand sent his son away to the boundary line

that divides Devon from Cornwall, and with the well-dowered Blanche

Champernowne of Beer-Ferrers for his helpmate, there to find his

future home, and where we propose to look for him again, after we have

gossiped over his lineage awhile.

In common with many of our old titled names, Sir John de Willoughby

its first possessor in this country was a Norman knight to whom the

Conqueror gave the manor of Willoughby in Lincolnshire.[2] His

descendant Sir William in the reign of Henry III. married Alice

daughter and coheiress of John Bec or Beke of Eresby, summoned to

Parliament as Baron Beke of Eresby 1295-6. He was succeeded by his son

Robert, who inherited at the decease of his grand-uncle Anthony Beke,

Bishop of Durham, the great possessions of that prelate, and 7 Edward

II., was summoned to Parliament as Baron Willoughby de Eresby.

[2] Burke.

His great-grandson was Robert, fourth Lord Willoughby; he married

first Alice daughter of Sir William Skipwith, and secondly Margaret

daughter of William, Lord Zouch, who died in 1391.[3] His third son

Sir Thomas by Alice Skipwith, married Elizabeth daughter of John de

Nevill, Lord Nevill of Raby, and Elizabeth Latimer his second wife,

only daughter of William, fourth Lord Latimer of the first creation,

who died in 1388. Sir Thomas was succeeded by his son Sir John

Willoughby, who married Joan Welby, described as an heiress, and their

son was the Sir John Willoughby, who married Anne daughter of Sir

Edmond Cheney, of Broke, Wilts; whose son was Sir Robert Willoughby,

the first Lord Willoughby de Broke, and subject of our little memoir.

There were three other sons, William of Turners-Piddle, Dorset, who

died in 1512, and was buried at Bere-Regis; Thomas, who married Isabel

Bedyke of Silton, Dorset, died 1523, and ordered his body to be buried

in the church there; and Edward, Dean of Exeter Cathedral, and Canon

of St. George's, Windsor, who died in 1508. Also two daughters,

Cicely, Abbess of Wilton, who died in 1528, and Elizabeth, married to

William Carrant, of Toomer in Henstridge, Somerset.

[3] The fine and almost perfect memorial brass of this lady is in

the chancel of Spilsby church, Lincolnshire. She is habited in

cote-hardie with mantle over, crenulated head-dress with

coverchief, two dogs with collars and bells at her feet, her head

rests on richly embroidered cushions. On the ledger-line is this

inscription,

=Hic jacet Margeria que fuit uxor Roberti de Wylughby de Eresby

que obiit xviij die mensis Octobris an'o d'ni mill'imo ccc

nonagesimo p'mo cui' a'ie p'p'ciet' deus=

and these arms: 1. MORTIMER.--2. UFFORD and BEC quarterly, as

borne by Lord Willoughby de Eresby.--3. Ros.--4. Wells.--5.

Bohun.--6. Zouch.--7. Beaumont.--8. Willoughby impaling Zouch. At

the angles are the emblems of the four Evangelists. There are also

two other splendid figures, probably the succeeding baron and his

lady, in the same chancel.

Thus far for the coming of the knight; our next care will be to trace,

as far as means available enable us, his progress and actions during

the eventful days in which he lived. The strife between the contending

factions of the Red and White Roses, in his younger years was strongly

predominant, and so thoroughly had the fierce rivalry for supreme

power permeated society, that probably it was almost impossible to

remain neutral, while men so blindly, yet withal so devotedly, risked

their lives and fortunes in partizanship with the contending claimants

of the divine right. To choose a side was an absolute necessity,--

"Under which king, Bezonian? speak or die!"

was the question of the hour, and had to be answered with all its

contingent risk. In the west country the adherents of the Red Rose

seemed to have the preponderance, the detestable craft and cruelty of

Richard III. doubtless had its effect of estranging from sympathy with

him, all except just those who were allied to his rule by the hollow

tie of self-interest, and the usual glamour of adhering to the powers

that be, no matter how arrived at or constituted, or what its actions

were.

The first important social function we find Sir Robert Willoughby

discharging, is that of Sheriff of Devon, 21 Edward IV., 1481, being

the year preceding the one in which his friend Sir Giles Daubeney held

the same office. And then, in harmony with the prevailing distracted

state of public affairs we have described, we next observe him in

active sympathy with the claims of the Red Rose, and consequent

enlistment in the cause of Richmond of York, in the company of

a large number of west country gentlemen, the Marquis of Dorset

(representative of Bonville), Giles Daubeney, the Courtenays, John

Cheney, Walter Hungerford, and others, in their rising and march to

Salisbury, in order to effect a junction with, and aid the movement in

Wales of the ill-fated Duke of Buckingham, in 1483. But the

extraordinary swollen state of the Severn--"an inundation so

remarkable that for a hundred years afterward it was called the _Great

Water_, or _Buckingham's Water_, said to have lasted ten days, and

that men, women, and children were carried away in their beds by the

violence of it"--placed a barrier between their forces from effecting

a junction, leaving the unfortunate Stafford in Richard's power, who

forthwith consigned him to the scaffold at Salisbury, and sent Sir

Robert and his companions in speedy flight to the south coast, and

thence 'beyond seas' over to Richmond in Brittany, thereby escaping a

similar sanguinary fate, which would have been remorselessly meted out

to them. For this defection his lands were seized, and Broke and

Suthwyke were bestowed by Richard on his favourite Sir Richard

Radcliffe.

Our clue as to his movements, for a short time, becomes one of surmise

rather than of actual proof. At the dispersal of Buckingham's

followers, Sir Robert and his attainted companions fled to Brittany,

and he remained probably with them at Vannes or the neighbourhood,

until the Earl of Richmond set out on his final expedition from

Harfleur to Milford-Haven. This he doubtless accompanied, although no

special mention is made of his name, nor as to his taking part in the

engagement at Bosworth, where however he must have been present from

circumstances that followed. Dugdale says "he was a successful sharer

in the benefit of that great victory," another thing to that of

sharing its danger.

A much more important event however, identifying the presence of Sir

Robert at Bosworth, or immediately near, and shewing the confidence

the victor placed in him, was Richmond despatching the knight, the day

after the battle, and before Henry left Leicester, with a detachment

of horse to the castle of Sheriff-Hutton in Yorkshire, to convoy the

unfortunate Earl of Warwick (son of the Duke of Clarence and nephew of

Edward IV.), then a prisoner there, to the still safer and more

dangerous custody of the Tower of London, only to emerge eventually

from thence to his death on the scaffold.

This mission is thus described by the old chronicler Hall. Henry in

order

"to obsist the first likely mischiefe, sent before his departure

from Leycestre Sir Robert Willoghby knight to the maner of

Sheryhutton in the County of Yorke for Edward Plantagenet Erle of

Warwike sonne and heire to George Duke of Clarence then beyng of

the age of xv yeres, whom Kyng Richard had kept there as a

prisoner durynge the tyme of his vsurped reigne. Sir Robert

Willoghby accordynge to hys commission receaved of the conestable

of the castle the Erle Edward, and him conueighed to London,

where the youngelynge borne to perpetual calamitie was

incontynent in the towre of London putt under safe and sure

custody."

The circumstances connected with the inveiglement of this poor

boy,--who for fifteen out of the twenty-four years he had lived, had

been a close prisoner, and so shut out from all knowledge of the outer

world, that he was said "not to know a goose from a capon,"--into a

confession of complicity with Perkin Warbeck's attempt, and then his

barbarous murder,--for it was nothing less,--on Tower Hill, is one of

the darkest of the many selfishly revengeful crimes that stain with

indelible cruelty the reign of the first Tudor king, as the equally

detestable slaying of the lad's aged sister the Countess of Salisbury,

in 1541, appals by the horror of its incidents, the second. "The truth

was," says Rapin, "the real crime that cost him his life, was his

being the last male heir of the house of York." He was beheaded 14

Nov., 1499, and Sir Robert lived to witness the wretched fate of the

noble youth he had four years previously brought a captive to London,

and in his death the extinction of the hope of the White Rose.

At the conclusion of Henry's first Parliament in 1485, in company with

his friend Sir Giles Daubeney, Sir Robert had the honour of the

peerage conferred on him, by the title of BARON WILLOUGHBY DE BROKE,

but the writ of summons does not appear to have been issued until 12

August, 1492. About the same time he was constituted one of the king's

Privy Council. In 1489, he was created a Knight of the Garter, being

the two hundred and forty-fourth on the roll of that noble order.

Lord Willoughby de Broke's first important public function appears to

have been his despatch from Portsmouth by Henry, with an army "to the

number of eight thousand choice men and well armed, who, having a fair

wind, in a few hours landed in Brittany" in March, 1489, professedly

to protect at her own proper costs and charges the girl-duchess Ann,

then about twelve years old, from the aggression of the French king,

Charles VIII., who was encamped with a hostile force within her

territory, but which province he eventually added to his kingdom,

together with the hand of its young mistress.

Here he remained in inglorious ease until November, when the little

army, with the exception of the five hundred left to occupy the

"cautionary towns" until payment for the expedition was made,

returned; during which time, and for a considerable portion of the

year ensuing, a game of dissimulation and feints at fighting was

carried on between the three monarchs, Henry, Charles, and Maximilian,

practically over the destiny of the young Duchess.

Then the scene of this playing at war shifts suddenly from Brittany to

Flanders, where the subjects of Maximilian--the proxy husband of

Ann--at Ypres and Sluys were in open revolt, respecting "an

unpalatable edict concerning coin," and to aid whom Charles VIII. had

sent Marshal d'Esquerdes with large succours of help, thus attacking

the would-be bridegroom and his child _fiancee_, on each side, and at

once; a game that proved successful in the end.

Maximilian in his turn sent ambassadors over to the wary calculating

Henry, then holding the scales between the monarchs, as he was at the

same time also engaged in negociations with Charles, who was

procrastinating and not intending to give any definite answer, nor but

little frightened at Henry's preparations, as he was well assured

within himself how matters would eventually terminate.

Henry was however seriously annoyed at the French king's

dissimulation, and despatched with all speed a little expedition of a

thousand men over to Calais, the command being entrusted to the Lords

Morley and Willoughby de Broke. Lord Daubeney was at that period

Governor of Calais, and to this force he added another thousand men,

drawn from the garrisons of Calais, Hammes, and Guisnes; and they had

"secret instructions to aid Maximilian and raise the siege of Dixmude"

where the citizens, soldiers, and their allies were encamped. The

English soldiers appear to have stolen an effective surprise upon the

Flemings and their French allies in the night, for they had apparently

no idea of the attack, and routed them with great slaughter, said to

have been eight thousand in number, while only a hundred or thereabout

of the English were killed, a statement to be received with caution,

as Lord Morley, Sir James Tyrrell, Captain of Guisnes, Sir Humphrey

Talbot, Marshal of Calais, Sir Gilbert Talbot, and others, were among

the slain. The pursuit over, the English army retired to Newport,

where Marshal d'Esquerdes appears to have followed and attacked them

without result. As this was the first touch of real hostilities, such

as they were, between Henry and Charles, for the time it "bred a great

coldness" between the belligerent monarchs.

But the coldness did not last long, and meanwhile a complete tangle of

matters enveloped these three royal players, over the destiny of their

hostage the girl-princess of Brittany, secretly wedded by proxy to

Maximilian, practically a prisoner in her little kingdom, unprotected,

and in the eyes of the French king a very desirable alliance for him,

and so incorporate that province under the crown of France, of which

nation it formed an integral portion. Ambassadors came over from the

Duchess to sound Henry's intentions of protection toward her, others

were despatched across in February, 1491, to the French king by

Henry, and these were followed again by further ambassadors from Ann,

vainly waiting in London for an answer. So things progressed, and

Charles who by his agents was busily plying the young Duchess with his

suit, in his turn amused the English envoys, until he found he had won

her and had the game in hand; then he cut the knot of the difficulty

by marrying her 16 Dec., 1491, and Henry's ambassadors returned

discomfited.

This climax came as a bomb-shell among the great personages.

Maximilian was furious at the loss of his bride, and threatened

immediate invasion of France for so deadly an affront; this however

did not much trouble Charles. What he was most concerned with was the

attitude of Henry who was also greatly enraged, and who, beside openly

boasting he should at once prepare for war against him, was also

influencing Ferdinand of Spain--whose daughter Katharine was espoused

to his son Arthur--to join him in the conflict. Thus France was

threatened on three sides at once, Charles however had little fear of

Maximilian or Ferdinand.

In the meantime Henry had another trouble nearer his door, with the

Scotch, and no settlement appeared to be in view, while the

complication in France continued, the French king being probably

moving behind to prevent. Ambassadors again came over from Charles to

negociate, but Henry who had the ulterior object of getting well paid

for what he was about to do, and the old debt due by Ann of Brittany

discharged, aided by liberal subsidies from Parliament, assembled an

army of twenty-five thousand foot, and sixteen hundred horse, and on

the second of October crossed over to Calais, to make conditions on

his adversary's soil, never meaning to fight, but by show and menaces,

see what he could get.

The conduct of this large flotilla, which arrived at Calais the same

day, was under the command of Lord Willoughby de Broke, as Lord High

Admiral; a notable piece of seamanship for the age, and shewing that

at the time England had a considerable reserve of shipping.

Henry with all the 'pomp and circumstance' of war marched out to

Boulogne, then, instead of fighting, the inevitable ambassadors on

both sides duly met, and a treaty of peace was signed at Etaples on

the third of November. The French king perfectly well knew his

antagonist's mercenary longings, and that himself and his army were

only there to exact the last golden crown possible, for the conclusion

of the matter by monetary consideration was an understanding between

them before Henry left England. So Charles agreed to pay Henry an

immense sum in discharge of his wife's debt, and also another large

amount, arrears of the yearly pension agreed to be paid by Lewis XI.

to Edward IV., his wife's father. Thereon the English king retired

with his army and treasure, or the promise of it, back to London, the

French monarch returned to his young bride at Paris, and the

undisputed possession of her dowry the Duchy of Brittany, and

Maximilian was left to shift for himself. After this manner therefore

ended the war concerning Brittany which began five years before in

1487.

This appears to have been the last foreign service in which Lord

Willoughby de Broke was engaged. We do not find his name among the

generals[4] of the king's army employed in the suppression of the

Cornish revolt at Black-Heath, nor otherwise engaged at home, until

the landing of Perkin Warbeck at Whitsand Bay in September, 1498, when

he held a command in the royal forces under Henry in his march to the

west to meet the plebeian pretender to his crown. Lord Willoughby de

Broke came to Taunton with Lord Daubeney and others commanding the

troops, and after Perkin's return as a captive from Beaulieu, went on

with Henry to Exeter. There the king dealt with the insurgents

personally, many of whom came with halters round their necks sueing

for pardon, and having punished some, to use his own words, "grant

unto the residue generally our grace and pardon, and our

Commissioners, the Earl of Devon, our Chamberlain, and our Steward of

Household, have done, and do daily, in our County of Cornwall."

[4] Lysons says he _was_ one of the Commanders against them.

The 'Steward of Household' was Lord Willoughby de Broke, and he was

peculiarly fitted for the duty, not only on account of his

relationship by property with the County, but also by virtue of his

position as Steward of the Duchy of Cornwall. This was apparently his

last public employment of any note, and probably age was stealing on

him, as he died four years afterward.

Of the offices and honours conferred on him by Henry, we find those of

Lord Steward of the Household, Steward of the Duchy of Cornwall, and

alternately that of Captain-General or Marshal of the land forces, and

as an Admiral of the fleet, in the king's expeditions to France, also

a chief Commander of the forces when engaged at home. He was called to

the Privy Council, created a Baron by writ of summons, and

subsequently elected a Knight of the Garter.

He twice served the office of Sheriff of Devon, in 1481, and again in

1488. Lysons says "in the reign of Henry VII. the mines of silver and

gold (in Cornwall) were leased to Sir Robert Willoughby."

Thus far have we proceeded with Lord Willoughby de Broke's public

services abroad and at home; our next care must be to glance at his

domestic surroundings, and what constrained him to leave his old

ancestral place of Broke Hall amid the breezy altitudes of north

Wilts, and find his way to the sheltered banks by Tamar's marge, in

south Devon. Nothing in any way singular or unusual, simply that

potent cause which has tempted many a young man to stray far away from

his father's roof-tree, brought Robert Willoughby down to

Beer-Ferrers,--the search for a wife,--and the lady he selected was

endowed with one, at least, most attractive charm, eagerly sought

after by mediaeval knight--and not altogether lost sight of, by suitors

in these, in some respects not much-improved mercenary, unchivalric

modern days of ours,--she was an heiress, largely dowered with the

home possessions of an antient race, of whom she was there the sole

representative in right of her grandmother, one of three sisters,

coheiresses, its last descendants; while on her father's side she was

also the only survivor of a branch of another of the most

time-honoured names in the county.

Blanche Champernowne was the pleasant name of the distaff that Robert

Willoughby won for his bride. She was the only daughter of John

Champernowne of Beer-Ferrers by Elizabeth Bigbury his wife, which John

succeeded his elder brother Roger who died without issue. He was the

second son of Alexander Champernowne (who died 30 June, 1441), by his

wife Joan, daughter and coheiress of Martyn Ferrers, who, says Pole

"was the last of y^t name of Ferrers, Lord of Beere-Ferrers."

Alexander was son of Sir Richard Champernowne of Modbury, by his first

wife Alice daughter of Thomas Lord Astley, and whose second wife was

Katharine daughter of Sir Giles Daubeney.

The family of De Ferraris or Ferrers, whose 'name and blood' Blanche

Champernowne represented, deserves a short genealogical notice here.

They had from very early date been settled in the parish of Beer, one

part of which, says Pole, "takes his name of ye family of Ferrers, th'

ancient inhabitants, from whence all the Ferrers in Devon and Cornwall

issued." Ralph de Ferrers was its lord in the reign of King Henry II.,

to him succeeded Henry, Reginald, and Sir William who married Isolda

daughter of Andrew Cardinham, leaving issue Sir Roger, Sir Reginald,

and Sir Hugh the ancestor of the Churston descent. Sir Reginald, of

Beer, married Margaret sister and coheiress of Sir Robert le Dennis of

Pancrasweek, and had issue Sir William who married Matilda daughter of

Roger Carminow. They were followed by their son Sir John, who was

succeeded by his son Sir Martyn, who, says Pole, was "the last of that

name of Ferrers, Lord of Beere-Ferrers; a person of great honour and

integrity, one of the principal persons entrusted with the guard of

this shire," corroborated by Risdon, who adds, "he was put in special

trust, with others, for the defence of the sea-coast against the

invasion of the French in King Edward the third's time."

Sir Martyn left three daughters, Elizabeth married to Hugh Poynings,

Lord St. John of Basing, Leva to Christopher Fleming, Baron of Slane

in Ireland, and Jone "to whom the mannor of Beer-Ferrers fell in

porcion" to Alexander Champernowne. Further notices of this family

will occur on our visit to the little sanctuary in the village, which

they appear to have originally built, and wherein several interesting

memorials to them remain. Their allusive arms were, _Or, on a bend

sable, three horse-shoes argent._

Concerning this prettily named heiress Blanche Champernowne and her

family, the prosaic and literal old itinerant Leland, gives us further

notice, and, if his description of her be correct, takes much of the

romance out of it,--

"There was another house of the Campernulphes more auncient,

caullid Campernulphe of Bere. The last of this house left a

doughter and heire caullid Blanche, maried first onto Copestan of

Devonshire, and after devorcid and maried onto the Lord Brooke,

Steward onto Henry the VII, and he had by her a 700 markes of

lande by yere.

"John Willoughby that cam out of Lincolnshire and maried the an

heire general of the Lord (of) Broke, and after was Lord Brooke

hymself, lyeth buried at Hedington, and was a benefactor to that

house. As I remembre, the sunne of this Lord Broke was Steward

of king Henry the VII House, and his son was the third Lord

Brooke of that--. N.B.--and he had a sunne by his firste wife,

and that sunne had ij doughters maried to Daltery and Graville.

He had by another wife sunnes and doughters. The sunnes toward

yong men died of the sweting syknes."

The genealogy is here somewhat confused, but Leland appears to have

been trusting to memory only.

We have made pilgrimage to, and described what remains of the old

ancestral home of the knight in Wiltshire, and our steps next lead us

to the locality of the new one he possessed by right of his wife at

Beer-Ferrers in Devon. Like all places situate on the estuaries of

large rivers such as the Tamar, that are tidal, and fringed by creeks

that run considerable distances inland, Beer-Ferrers on the land side

is only to be reached by a circuitous route from Plymouth, and

therefore we elect the easier and more direct approach to it, by aid

of the iron horse to Saltash, and thence by boat.

The tide is well up, and a pleasant breeze soon speeds us on our way.

We pass the Budshead creek, that extends inland to Tamerton-Foliot,

and are soon opposite a second and somewhat larger opening that runs

up to Maristow, where, at its far end, the sparkling Tavy, fresh from

the granite boulders of Dartmoor, delivereth her waters into the salt

bosom of the lower Tamar. At about mid-distance up the creek on its

northern shore, a small compact village, with a square battlemented

church tower rising in the midst, has its place on the bank that

slopes gently down to the water's edge. Thither we steer our way, and

making fast our little craft to the pier, or 'quay' as these landing

places are locally termed, find ourselves at Beer-Ferrers.

And where shall we discover this new home, you say, that Lord

Willoughby de Broke acquired by right of Blanche Champernowne, and

when in the flesh possessed and resided in, with surrounding park, and

for which mansion or manor-house, his wife's ancestor Sir William de

Ferrers had a license to castellate from king Edward III. in 1337, a

concession subsequently renewed to his widow the Lady Matilda, and

continued to his son Sir John?

Even in Leland's time, immediately after the decease of the last Lord

Willoughby de Broke, it seems to have disappeared, for he notes:--"on

the east side of this creek is Buckland. And on the west side is Bere,

_where the Lord Broke's house and park was_." We believe nothing now

remains to mark its former site but a few undulations in the turf. A

graphic picture of the lawlessness of the era of Lord Willoughby de

Broke's earlier residence at Beer-Ferrers, and the amenities of social

life exhibited between the "bettermost folk" of that district, and

comparatively neighbours also, is shewn in an account preserved among

the muniments of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, describing attacks made

on the person, servants and residence of his ancestor Richard Edgcumbe

of Cotehele (M.P. for Tavistock in 1468) by Robert Willoughby of

Beer-Ferrers, and thus described by the Earl to the members of the

Royal Archaeological Society in 1876:--

"The document is rather amusing, dated 1470, and is apparently

the rough copy of a complaint or information by this Richard

against Robert Willoughby, who lived across the water at Beer

Ferrers, of injuries done to him at sundry times. This paper

which is remarkable for its wonderful spelling and for the

careful way in which every hostile act is estimated at its money

value, contains no less than thirteen items or charges, each

specifying some distinct outrage on the part of the said

Willoughby and his followers, numbering on one occasion '_three

score persons, in form of war arraied, with jackes, salettes,

bowys, ar'ws, and byelys, who at various times and places

contrewayted the said Richard to have mordered him and with force

of armes made a great affray and assawte upon him and his

servants sometimes to the gret jeperdy and dispayre of his

liff_,' always to his hurt and damage of so many pounds. And on

another occasion attacked Cotehele House itself and carried off a

very miscellaneous collection of articles to the hurt and damage

of the said Richard of a great many pounds; and at other times

took divers of his servants and kept them for a week at a time in

prison at '_Bere Ferrers_,' and '_bete_' and grievously wounded

others, especially one William Frost, to the hurt and damage to

the said Richard of L20 and more. It is a curious fact that

fifteen years later this Willoughby (as Lord de Broke) and

Richard Edgcumbe held high places together in the court of Henry

VII."

Richard Edgcumbe had a narrower escape however from the vengeance of

Richard III., after the suppression of Buckingham's revolt, in which

he was a partizan, being strongly attached to the fortunes of the Red

Rose. A party of armed men in Richard's interest, headed according to

tradition by Sir Henry Bodrugan, otherwise Trenoweth, of St. Gorran in

Cornwall, an adherent of the White Rose, made search for him in his

own beautiful home of Cotehele. Carew describing the event says,

"he was driven to hide himself in those his thick woods, which

overlook the river, what time being suspected of favouring the

Earle of Richmond's party, against King Richard the III., he was

hotely pursued, and narrowly searched for. Which extremity taught

him a sudden policy, to put a stone in his cap, and tumble the

same into the water, while these rangers were fast at his heeles,

who looking downe after the noyse, and seeing his cap swimming

thereon supposed that he had desperately drowned himselfe, gave

over their farther hunting and left him at liberty to shift away,

and ship over into Brittaine: for a grateful remembrance of which

delivery, hee afterwards builded in the place of his lurking, a

Chapell."

After the victory of Bosworth, and Henry was seated on the throne, it

came to Edgcumbe's chance to turn the tables on his adversary, and

this he did most effectually. Tradition further relates, according to

Lysons quoting from Tonkin, that,

"Sir Henry Bodrugan was in arms in Cornwall against the Earl of

Richmond, (Henry VII.) that he was defeated on a moor, not far

from his own castle by Sir Richard Edgcumbe and Trevanion, and

that he made his escape by a desperate leap from the cliff into

the sea, where a boat was ready to receive him, and fled to

Ireland, when all his large estates, including Bodrugan Castle,

described by Borlase "that there was nothing in Cornwall equal to

it for magnificence" were forfeited to the Crown. Most of

Bodrugan's estates, including the manor of St. Gorran (whereon

was the castle) were granted to Sir Richard Edgcumbe, and now

belong to his descendants."

Two very remarkable and almost identically coincident escapes. The

place where he jumped over the cliff at Dodman's Head, is still known

as "Bodrugan's Leap."

Edgcumbe was Comptroller of the Household, and of the Privy Council to

Henry VII., and died returning from an embassy to France, at Morlaix

on his way home, in 1489. Willoughby, Lord de Broke was his superior

officer as Lord Steward of the Household to the same monarch; thus at

Court they were closely associated with each other. Subsequently 22

Henry VII. (1497), Lord de Broke obtained of the king a grant in fee

of the manor of Trethewye in St. Cleer, and all the lands there, part

of the forfeited possessions of Sir Henry Bodrugan, and which were

situate near his other property at Callington. So these worthies

divided the spoil of their unfortunate neighbour.

As it hath happened to us aforetime, in many of our wanderings, in

search of the former earthly habitations of those we were essaying to

bring back to the stage of our thoughts, so also here,--successively

of Ferrers, Champernowne and Willoughby,--all traces of their olden

home have disappeared, and only a site with a name and a tradition

remains to identify where stood their antient dwelling-place.

Therefore our steps lead us back to that hallowed spot, where they, in

common with us all, found their last and final home of eternal rest,

there to seek for such memorials of them as may yet remain.

The church of Beer-Ferrers is an antient structure, the chancel and

transepts of interesting early-decorated character, and but little

disturbed from their original condition. But although used for

parochial worship in the ordinary sense of the word, the little

sanctuary was of old something more than that, being dignified

ecclesiastically as a foundation of collegiate character, and termed

an Arch-Presbytery. Of these somewhat uncommon religious

establishments there were two in Devon, the other being at Haccombe,

founded (about the same time) 1341, by Sir Stephen de Haccombe. This,

at Beer-Ferrers, was founded by Sir William de Ferrers, who having

rebuilt the church was desirous of making it Collegiate. For this

purpose he assigned a sufficient endowment for an arch-priest and four

other priests, who were to live in common under the same roof; and

provision was also made for an assistant deacon, or sub-deacon, or at

least a clerk. The Community were to perform the daily and nightly

office in the church, and to offer up perpetual prayers for the

prosperity of the Founder and his Lady Matilda during their lives, and

for their souls after death. Also for the souls of Reginald de Ferrers

and his wife Margery (parents of the Founder) and the souls of Sir

Roger and Lady Joan de Carminow (parents of his wife) and the bishops

of Exeter living or dead. Bishop Grandison confirmed this foundation

17 June, 1333. The Founder did not long survive his charitable work,

for it is found in that prelate's register (vol. ii., fol. 219) that

his relict and executrix Matilda obtained from the bishop 15 Dec.,

1338, an acknowledgment of having well and faithfully administered to

her husband's property, and that only the sum of twenty pounds

remained in arrear, "_ad completionem cantarie de Biry_." (Oliver.)

A glance into the chancel, although five centuries have flown, brings

us face to face with the Founder and his wife. There--marvellously

preserved--humbly postured on one knee, his glowing tinted

proportions, amid the crimson interlacery, and quarrels of

pale-pencilled leaflets, that fill the east window, arrayed in gilded

chain-mail, silver genouilleres and sword-hilt, with the armories of

his race, the dark bend and gleaming horse-shoes traversing both

ailette and surcoat. In his raised hands he bears the offering of a

grand church, having three spires, and over his head runs a legend

that apparently reads "(SYR) E WILL'S FERREYS ME FECIT." Fronting him

in the adjoining light, with hands uplifted in prayer, kneels his wife

Matilda Carminow, in snowy wimple and cover-chief, pink boddice and

sleeves, with the broad bend of her husband's arms embroidered on her

golden robe. The inscription above her head, seems to be confused and

undecipherable. Studding the borders of the lights, interspersed among

other ornaments, are the arms of Ferrers and Carminow, and a grand

escutcheon similarly charged, and encircled with beautiful

green-foliaged ornament occurs below.

Thus much for the history of the foundation of the arch-presbytery as

depicted in the window; immediately beneath on the north side of the

altar, upon a raised tomb of plain character, rest the recumbent

effigies of the Founder and his wife, carved in stone, and habited

almost exactly in duplicate of the figures limned on the glass above.

Over them rises a beautiful pyramidal canopy, cusped below, flanked by

pinnacles rising from the ground, the whole richly foliaged and

finialed. In the upper spandrels are angels swinging censers.[5] But

the peculiarity of this memorial consists in the lower portion of the

canopy being cut through the wall, and opening to the side-chapel or

chamber that adjoins the chancel on that side, where its elevation is

repeated, as in the church, but with much less ornament.

[5] There appears to be only two examples of this fine style of

monument found in the county, the other occurring in the Chapel

of St. James, in Exeter Cathedral.

In the transept, which appears to be coeval with the chancel, in the

east wall is a piscina, and the moulding immediately adjoining, marks

the position of an altar that once had its position there. In a recess

beneath a finely moulded arch at the north end under the window, is

the effigy of a knight in chain-mail and surcoat, with shield, and

hands grasping his sword, cross-legged,--the head raised and supported

on a large bascinet-shaped helmet. The legs are destroyed to the

knees, and of the lion on which his feet rested, only the paws remain.

This figure is of contemporary date with the Founder in the chancel,

with great probability is a Ferrers, and may represent his father, who

was on the bede-roll of the foundation.

Here concludes our notices of the memorials of Ferrers, the first of

the influential families Blanche Willoughby represented. Our next

care, will, if it may be, to note any traces of the equally antient

race that succeeded them at Beer, and gave to her, her maiden name of

Champernowne.

One only, humble but characteristic, remains, now ousted from its

original position in the pavement of the church, to the yard outside,

where it must speedily pass to decay. It is a flat stone, on which is

incised a Calvary cross on degrees, having at the intersection the

Sacred Heart _rayonne_, inscribed with the Sacred Monogram. Below is

this inscription,--

=Hic iacet Roger Champnow'e Armiger

cui' a'i'e p'p'cietur de' ame'=

This was the eldest brother of John Champernowne, to whom he succeeded

at Beer, and uncle to Blanche Willoughby. Roger died 14 November,

1422.

Following these, our investigations naturally carry us on to note such

remembrances of Willoughby as occur in the sacred edifice. There are

several, actual and inferred, but our jottings must be stayed for the

present, as the first memorial to that noble race is found

elsewhere,--and our steps will return here after a while to conclude

them.

Again we have recourse to our little craft, and crossing the bright

Tamar, land on the Cornish side, and thence by a circuitous and

winding lane of considerable length, find ourselves on the high road

about halfway between the old half-maritime, half-inland borough of

Saltash, and the equally antient half-mining, half-agricultural

borough of Callington. As we steadily climb the gentle but continual

ascent that leads to the old tinners' town, a grand and varied

prospect surrounds us. Immediately in front looms the immense

pyramidal mass of Hingston Down and Kit Hill rising over it, in all

near eleven hundred feet above the tidal marge of the blue sea that

gleams behind us, its crest garnished with many a tall chimney stack,

the out-growth of that glamour of wealth so invincibly dear to the

Cornishman's heart, that is always coming, but so seldom arrives, and

whose witchery has been handed down from countless generations even

long before old Leland's foot passed over it, and he made note of it

as "being a hy hylle, and nere Tamar yn the easte part, baryn of his

self, yt it is fertile by yielding of tynne both by water and dry

warkes." Hence the distich,

"Hengston Down well yrought,

Is worth London Town dear ybought,"

but whose smokeless chimneys now stand as the witness-ghosts of the

hundreds of thousands of buried treasure sunk aforetime within its

vast bosom, yet nevertheless rich to a degree in mineral wealth, and

boundless resource of granite and clay of the finest quality, from

which considerable returns have been made. To the right in the far

distance rise the shadowy tors of Dartmoor in successive range,

melting back and merging into the grey realms of cloud-land. On the

left, clear cut into the bright evening sky, appears the magnificent

boldly outlined mass of the Caradons, behind which the sun has just

dipped, and a blue aerial haze of singular beauty and varying density,

stretches down their side and unites them to the broad valley beneath.

We pass the skirt of Viverdon Down, an immense common, susceptible of

better cultivation, but now a fastness for game only, and rough food

for young animals; albeit gay in its appointed season with wealth of

heather and gorse, and, if neglected by man, glorified by the unseen

touch of the Infinite,--

"How full of love must He

In all things be,

Who strews with beauty e'en the waste and wold,

Who gives the moorland lark

His purple heath-bower dark;

The mountain bee, his wilderness of gold."

Quietly continuing our way, a short distance further brings us to the

apex of the ascent, and as we begin to descend, before us is the

'tynner's towne' of Callington, with its granite-built,

expressively-pinnacled church tower rising well above the clustering

houses that surround it.

Here, at Callington, Lord Willoughby de Broke held another large

property by right of his wife as a descendant of Ferrers, and also at

South-Hill, as being himself the representative of the family of

Stafford. Lysons says,--

"The manor of Callington was in the Ferrers family when the

market was granted in 1267 by Henry III.; Joan daughter of Martyn

Ferrers, brought it into the Champernowne family, Lord Willoughby

de Broke became possessed of it by marrying their heiress. It

appears that he occasionally resided, and that he died, at the

Manor-house of Callington, for he directed in his will he should

be buried in the church of that parish in which he should die.

From Willoughby it passed by successive marriages to Paulet,

Marquis of Winchester (who married his grand-daughter Elizabeth),

Dennis, Rolle, Walpole, and Trefusis. At Southill, two-thirds of

the great manor or franchise of Callilond or Kalliland, to which

the church of Southill is appendant, which belonged formerly to

the baronial family of Stafford, and passed by a coheiress to

Willoughby Lord Broke, and now vested in Trefusis."

Where the Manor-house mentioned by Lysons was situate cannot now be

determined, but it is surmised to have been a building, which has long

wholly disappeared, and was called Chickett-Hall, that formed Lord

Willoughby de Broke's residence at Callington, and where he presumably

departed this life. He was patron of the important benefice of

South-Hill, and in its daughter church of Callington he was buried.

But according to Sir R. C. Hoare he died at Wardour Castle, Wilts,

which he had purchased.

Lord Broke made his will 19 August, 1502, and "_ordered his body to be

buried in that parish wherein he should happen to die appointing that

part of the issues and profits of Mitton and Kelmesham, &c., Co.

Worcester, and the Manors of Helmingham, Thorpe-Latimer, Skredyngton,

Heckington, Ledynghall and Swynehead in Com: Lincoln (then lately

belonging to Lord Latimer) should be employed, by the space of twenty

years next after his decease, to the finding of a priest to sing in

the parish church of Hoke in Com: Dorset, for that term, taking for

his salary every year ten marks, and to the relief of fourteen poor

men and women, by the space of the said twenty years, to pray for his

soul, as also for the soul of Blanche his wife, and the souls of his

father and mother_." Probate, 25 December next ensuing. (Dugdale.)

Lord Willoughby de Broke is buried on the north side of the chancel of

Callington church, and his monument--perhaps the finest of its kind in

Cornwall--consists of his effigy recumbent on a high-tomb, both

composed of alabaster. He is habited in complete plate armour, collar

and apron of mail, and broad-toed sollerets, and is armed with sword

and misericorde. The hands are in gauntlets, the head--which rests on

a helmet--is uncovered, the hair cut short across the forehead, but

flowing by the sides of the face, to the shoulders. The helmet is

mantled, and surmounted by the crest _a Saracen's head affronte,

couped at the shoulders, ducally crowned, and with ear-rings_. The

feet are on a lion, and behind the soles, are two monks, or weepers,

their heads bowed and inclining toward each other, resting on one

hand, with the other they hold a rosary. The Garter appears below the

left knee, and over the armour he wears the Robe and Collar of the

Order, on the left shoulder is embroidered the Shield encircled by the

Riband, the Collar is composed of roses within a garter, and

garter-knots alternate, and from it is suspended the George.

The tomb below is formed of panels filled with rich tracery, having in

their centres shields with carved armorial bearings, and twisted

pillars were at the corners; of these two remain. No inscription is

visible, it was probably only painted on the verge of the

ledger-moulding, but traces of colour and gilding are faintly

discernible on the figure. The effigy is in a fair state of

preservation, but wretchedly disfigured on the surface, by legions of

names and initials, barbarously cut into, and scratched on it.

The shields,--two of which are encircled by the Garter,--are charged

with the arms borne by Lord Willoughby de Broke, as derived from

Willoughby de Eresby with due difference. Quarterly: first grand

quarter 1 and 4, _Sable, a cross engrailed or_ (UFFORD); 2 and 3,

_Gules, a cross moline argent_ (BEC or BEKE), at the intersection _a

crescent for difference_; second, _Gules, a cross patonce or_

(LATIMER); third, _Gules, four fusils argent, on each an escallop

sable_ (CHENEY); fourth, _Or, a chevron gules, within a bordure

engrailed sable_ (STAFFORD). On the styles between the panels appears

the _rudder_, surmounted by the _rose_ of his patron Henry VII.

It is singular that no armorial alliance allusive to his wife appears

on the tomb, but only his own family achievement with its proud

distinguishment conspicuously displayed, finds place thereon. Yet

Blanche Champernowne was an heiress of no mean descent, and richly

dowered also, being the representative of the two very antient races

of Ferrers and Champernowne, west country names of remote descent, and

wide-spread renown, whose property she inherited. The more to be noted

also, as he was presumably buried and his monument occurs in the

church at Callington, whose manor formed a portion of her possessions.

Where Lady Willoughby de Broke was buried does not appear. At

Beer-Ferrers the _horse-shoes_ of Ferrers do find position of equal

consequence with her husband's, but largely super-imposed with the

_rudders_ of Willoughby. Champernowne does not appear in either

church, but on her descendant's tomb at Alcester, both Ferrers and

Champernowne are carefully marshalled among the elaborate heraldic

display.

Stay thy foot, friend of mine, a short while, ere thou passest out of

the sacred enclosure, and scan yon venerable churchyard cross--how

rich is Cornwall in these reminders--slightly leaning, yet hale in the

strength of the almost imperishable granite, and with the age-worn

imagery of the Great Sacrifice, still plainly discernible, insculped

on one of the faces of its pediment. There it was before the

honour-bedizened noble--whose tomb we have been just surveying--found

his way to Callington to enjoy the portion of his great possessions,

situate near it; and who shall say he may not many a time have bowed

his head in silent prayer, and crossed himself reverently at the sight

of its solemn appeal, when in life he passed in front of it, as he

entered the adjoining sanctuary for worship, ere he finally found

therein his grave. And here also it is to-day, speaking the same

eternal lesson to us, who are seeking to gather back from the woof of

the Past, ravelled threads of his memory; and there it will doubtless

be found, when we also are merged into the things that were. Such is

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