Next comes a layer of palm-leaves, the strong, tough leaflets serving

admirably as laths to uphold the coating of mud, which is laid thickly

over them. The mud is obtained from below, without difficulty, and in

any quantity required; and when trowelled smooth, and dry,—which it soon

becomes under the hot sun,—constitutes an excellent floor, where a fire

may be kindled without danger of burning either the laths or joists

underneath.

As yet the Guaraon has completed only the floor of his dwelling, but

that is his principal labor. He cares not for walls,—neither sides nor

gables. There is no cold, frosty weather to chill him in his tropical

home,—no snow to be kept out. The rain alone, usually falling in a

vertical direction, has to be guarded against; and from this he secures

himself by a second platform of lighter materials, covered with mats,

which he has already woven for the purpose, and with palm-leaflets so

placed as to cast off the heaviest shower. This also shelters him

against the burning sun,—an enemy which he dreads even more than the

rain.

His house is now finished; and, with the exception of the mud floor, is

all of itá palm,—beams, cross-timbers, laths, ropes, and mats. The ropes

he has obtained by stripping off the epidermis of the full-grown

leaflets, and then twisting it into cordage of any thickness required.

For this purpose it is equal to hemp. The mats he has made from the same

material,—and well does he, or rather his wife—for this is usually the

work of the females—know how to plait and weave them.

Having completed the building of his aerial dwelling, the Guaraon would

eat. He has fish, which has been caught in the neighboring caño,—perhaps

turtle,—perhaps the flesh of the manatee, or the alligator,—for his

palate is by no means of a delicate fineness, and will not refuse a

steak from the tail of the American crocodile. But when the flood time

is on, fish become scarce, or cannot be had at all,—no more can turtles,

or sea-cows, or alligators. Besides, scarce or plenty, something else is

wanted to vary the diet. Bread is wanted; and for this the Guaraon has

not far to go. The itá again befriends him, for he finds, upon splitting

open its trunk, a large deposit of medullary pith or fecula; which, when

submitted to the process of bruising or grating, and afterwards stirred

in water, forms a sediment at the bottom of the vessel, a substance not

only eatable, but equal in excellence to the well-known produce of the

_sago_ palm.

This farinaceous pith, formed into cakes and roasted over the fire,—the

fuel being supplied by leaves and leafstalks,—constitutes the

_yuruma_,—the daily bread of the Guaraon.

The yuruma, or rather the sago out of which it is made, is not

obtainable at all times. It is the male palm which produces it; and it

must be extracted just as the tree is about to expand its spadix of

flowers. The same curious fact is observed with regard to the _maguey_,

or great American aloe, which produces the drink called “pulque.” To

procure the sap in any considerable quantity, the maguey must be tapped

just on that day when the flower-stalk is about to shoot upward from

among the leaves.

The Guaraon, having eaten his yuruma, would drink. Does he have recourse

to the water which flows in abundance beneath his dwelling? No. On

ordinary occasions he may quench his thirst in that way; but he wishes

for some beverage more cheering. Again the itá yields it without stint,

and even gives him a choice. He may tap the trunk, and draw forth the

sap; which, after being submitted to a process of fermentation, becomes

a wine,—“ßmurichi wine,” a beverage which, if the Guaraon be so

inclined, and drink to excess, will make him “as drunk as a lord”!

But he may indulge in a less dangerous, and more delicate drink, also

furnished by his favorite itá. This he obtains by flinging a few of the

nuts into a vessel of water, and leaving them awhile to ferment; then

beating them with a pestle, until the scales and pulp are detached; and,

lastly, passing the water through a sieve of palm-fibre. This done, the

drink is ready to be quaffed. For all these purposes tools and utensils

are required, but the itá also furnishes them. The trunk can be scooped

out into dishes; or cut into spoons, ladles, and trenchers. The flower

“spathe” also gives him cups and saucers. Iron tools, such as hatchets

and knives, he has obtained from commerce with Europeans; but, before

their arrival in the New World, the Guaraon had his hatchet of flint,

and his knife-blade of obsidian; and even now, if necessary, he could

manage without metal of any kind.

The bow and arrows which he uses are obtained from the tough, sinewy

petiole of the leaf; so is the harpoon-spear with which he strikes the

great manatee, the porpoise, and the alligator; the canoe, light as

cork, which carries him through the intricate channels of the delta, is

the hollow trunk of a morichi palm. His nets and lines, and the cloth

which he wears around his loins, are all plaited or woven from the young

leaflets before they have expanded into the fan-like leaf.

Like other beings, the Guaraon must at times sleep. Where does he

stretch his body,—on the floor?—on a mat? No. He has already provided

himself with a more luxurious couch,—the “rede,” or hammock, which he

suspends between two trees; and in this he reclines, not only during the

night, but by day, when the sun is too hot to admit of violent exertion.

His wife has woven the hammock most ingeniously. She has cut off the

column of young leaves, that projects above the crown of the morichi.

This she has shaken, until the tender leaflets become detached from each

other and fall apart. Each she now strips of its outer covering,—a thin,

ribbon-like pellicle of a pale-yellow color,—which shrivels up almost

like a thread. These she ties into bundles, leaving them to dry awhile;

after which she spins them into strings, or, if need be, twists them

into larger cords. She then places two horizontal rods or poles about

six feet apart, and doubles the string over them some forty or fifty

times. This constitutes the _woof_; and the _warp_ is obtained by

cross-strings twisted or tied to each of the longitudinal ones, at

intervals of seven or eight inches. A strong cord, made from the

epidermis of the full-grown leaves, is now passed through the loop of

all the strings, drawn together at both ends, and the poles are then

pulled out. The hammock, being finished and hung up between two trees,

provides the naked Indian with a couch, upon which he may repose as

luxuriantly as a monarch on his bed of down. Thus, then, does a single

tree furnish everything which man, in his primitive simplicity, may

require. No wonder that the enthusiastic missionaries have given to the

morichi-palm the designation of “arbol de vida” (tree of life).

It may be asked why does the Guaraon live in such a strange

fashion,—especially when on all sides around him there are vast tracts

of _terra firma_ upon which he might make his dwelling, and where he

could, with far less difficulty, procure all the necessaries, and many

of the luxuries of life? The question is easily answered; and this

answer will be best given by asking others in return. Why do the

Esquimaux and Laplanders cling to their inhospitable home upon the icy

coasts of the Arctic Sea? Why do tribes of men take to the cold, barren

mountains, and dwell there, within sight of lovely and fertile plains?

Why do others betake themselves to the arid steppes and dreary recesses

of the desert?

No doubt the Guaraon, by powerful enemies forced from his aboriginal

home upon the firm soil, first sought refuge in the marshy flats where

we now encounter him; there he found security from pursuit and

oppression; there—even at the expense of other luxuries—he was enabled

to enjoy the sweetest of all,—the luxury of liberty.

What was only a necessity at first, soon became a habit; and that habit

is now an essential part of his nature. Indeed, it is not so long since

the necessity itself has been removed.

Even at the present hour, the Guaraon would not be secure, were he to

stray too far from his sheltering marshes,—for, sad though it be to say

so, the poor Indian, when beyond the protection of his tribe, is in many

parts of South America still treated as a slave. In the _delta_ he feels

secure. No slave-hunter,—no enemy can follow him there. Even the foeman

of his own race cannot compete with him in crossing the wide flats of

spongy quagmire,—over which, from long habit, he is enabled to glide

with the lightness and fleetness of a bird. During the season of

overflow, or when the waters have fallen to their lowest, he is equally

secure from aggression or pursuit; and, no doubt, in spite of missionary

zeal,—in spite of the general progress of civilization,—in this savage

security he will long remain.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE LAPLANDERS.

One of the oldest “odd” people with which we are acquainted are the Laps

or Laplanders. For many centuries the more civilized nations of Europe

have listened to strange accounts, told by travellers of these strange

people; many of these accounts being exaggerated, and others totally

untrue. Some of the old travellers, being misled by the deer-skin

dresses worn by the Laps, believed, or endeavored to make others

believe, that they were born with hairy skins like wild beasts; and one

traveller represented that they had only a single eye, and that in the

middle of the breast! This very absurd conception about a one-eyed

people gained credit, even so late as the time of Sir Walter

Raleigh,—with this difference, that the locality of these gentry with

the odd “optic” was South America instead of Northern Europe.

In the case of the poor Laplander, not the slightest exaggeration is

needed to render him an interesting study, either to the student of

ethnology, or to the merely curious reader. He needs neither the odd eye

nor the hairy pelt. In his personal appearance, dress, dwelling, mode of

occupation, and subsistence, he is so different from almost every other

tribe or nation of people, as to furnish ample matter for a monograph at

once unique and amusing.

I shall not stay to inquire whence originated this odd specimen of

humanity. Such speculations are more suited to those so-called _learned_

ethnologists, who, resembling the anatomists in other branches of

natural history, delight to deal in the mere pedantry of science,—who,

from the mere coincidence of a few words, can prove that two peoples

utterly unlike have sprung from a common source: precisely as Monsieur

Cuvier, by the examination of a single tooth, has proved that a rabbit

was a rhinoceros!

I shall not, therefore, waste time in this way, in hunting up the origin

of the miserable Laplander; nor does it matter much where he sprang

from. He either came from somewhere else, or was created in Lapland,—one

of the two; and I defy all the philosophers in creation to say which:

since there is no account extant of when he first arrived in that cold

northern land,—not a word to contradict the idea of his having been

there since the first creation of the human race. We find him there

_now_; and that is all that we have to do with his origin at present.

Were we to speculate, as to what races are kindred to him, and to which

he bears the greatest resemblance, we should say that he was of either

the same or similar origin with the Esquimaux of North America, the

Greenlanders of Greenland, and the Samoeids, Tuski, and other tribes

dwelling along the northern shores of Asia. Among all these nations of

little men, there is a very great similarity, both in personal

appearance and habits of life; but it would not be safe to say that they

all came from one common stock. The resemblances may be the result of a

similarity in the circumstances, by which they are surrounded. As for

language,—so much relied upon by the _scientific_ ethnologist,—there

could scarce be a more unreliable guide. The black negro of Carolina,

the fair blue-eyed Saxon, and the red-skinned, red-polled Hibernian, all

speak one language; the descendants of all three, thousands of years

hence, will speak the same,—perhaps when they are widely scattered

apart,—and the superficial philosopher of those future times will, no

doubt, ascribe to them all one common origin!

Language, of itself, is no _proof_ of the natural affinities of two

peoples. It is evidence of their once having been in juxtaposition,—not

much more. Of course when other points correspond, similarity of speech

becomes a valuable corroboration. It is not our purpose, then, to

inquire whence the Laplander came,—only _where_ he is now, and _what_ he

is how. Where is he now?

If you take your map of Europe, and draw a line from the Gulf of

Kandalax, in the White Sea, to the middle of the Loffoden Isles, on the

Norwegian coast, you will cut off the country which is now properly

called Lapland. The country at present inhabited by the people called

Laplanders, will be found north of this line. It is a boundary more

imaginary than real: for in truth there is no political division known

as Lapland, nor has there been for hundreds of years. It is said there

once was a kingdom of Lapland, and a nation of Laplanders; but there is

no proof that either one or the other ever existed. There was a peculiar

people, whom we now style Laplanders, scattered over the whole northern

part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and wandering as far south as the

shores of the Gulf of Bothnia; but, that this people had ever any

general compact, or union, deserving the name of government or nation,

there is no proof. There is no evidence that they ever enjoyed a higher

degree of civilization than they do at present; and that is not one iota

higher than exists among the Esquimaux of North America,—notwithstanding

the advantage which the Laplander has in the domestication of a

ruminating quadruped and a knowledge of the Christian religion.

The tract of country which I have above assigned to the modern

Laplander, is to be regarded rather as meaning that portion of Northern

Europe, which can scarcely be said to be in the occupation of any other

people. True Laplanders may be found dwelling, or rather wandering, much

to the south of the line here indicated,—almost to the head of the

Bothnian Gulf,—but in these southern districts, he no longer has the

range clear to himself. The Finn—a creature of a very different

kind—here meets him; constantly encroaching as a _colonist_ on that

territory which once belonged to the Laplander alone.

It becomes necessary to say a few words about the names we are using:

since a perfect chaos of confusion has arisen among travellers and

writers, in relation to the nomenclature of these two people,—the Finns

and the Laplanders.

In the first place, then, there is in reality no such a people as

Laplanders in Northern Europe. The word is a mere geographical

invention, or “synonyme,” if you wish. The people to whom we apply the

name, call themselves “_Samlash_;” the Danes and Norwegians term them

“_Finns_;” and the Swedes and Russians style them “_Laps_.” The people

whom _we_ know as Finns—and who are not Laplanders in any sense—have

received the appellation of Finns erroneously. These Finns have for a

long period been making progress, as colonists, in the territory once

occupied by the true Finns, or Laplanders; and have nothing in common

with these last people. They are agriculturists, and dwell in fixed

settlements; not pastoral and nomadic, as the Laplanders eminently are.

Besides, there are many other essential points of difference between the

two,—in mind,—in personal appearance, in habits, in almost everything. I

am particular upon this point,—because the wrong application of the name

_Finns_, to this last-mentioned race, has led writers into a world of

error; and descriptions given of them and their habits have been applied

to the people who are the subjects of the present chapter,—leading, of

course, to the most erroneous conclusions. It would be like exhibiting

the picture of a Caffre as the likeness of a Hottentot or Bushman!

The Finns, as geography now designates them,—and which also assigns to

them a country called Finland,—are, therefore, not Finns at all. Where

they are found in the old Lapland territory as colonists, they are

called _Qüans_; and this name is given them alike by Russians, Swedes,

Danes, and Norwegians.

To return to our Laplanders, who are the true Finns. I have said that

they are called by different names; by the Danes and Norwegians “Finns,”

and by the Russians and Swedes simply “Laps.” No known meaning is

attached to either name; nor can it be discovered at what period either

came into use. Enough to know that these are the designations by which

they are now known to those four nations who have had chiefly to deal

with them.

Since these people have received so many appellations,—and especially

one that leads to much confusion,—perhaps it is better, for geography’s

sake, to accept the error: to leave the _new_ Finns to their usurped

title, and to give the old Finns that distinctive name by which they are

best known to the world, viz. _Laplanders_. So long as it is remembered,

that this is merely a geographical title, no harm can result from

employing it; and should the word _Finns_ occur hereafter, it is to be

considered as meaning not the Finns of Norwegian Finmark, but the Qüans

of Finland, on the Gulf of Bothnia.

I have spoken of the country of the Laplanders, as if they _had_ a

country. They have not. There is a territory in which they dwell; but it

is not theirs. Long, long ago the lordship of the soil was taken from

them; and divided between three powerful neighbors. Russia took her

largest slice from the east; Sweden fell in for its southern part; and

Norway claimed that northern and western portion, lying along the

Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. This afterwards became the property of

Denmark: when Norway herself ceased to be independent.

The country, therefore, which I have defined as Lapland, in modern times

is so styled, merely because it is almost exclusively occupied by these

people: it not being worth the while of their Danish, Swedish, or

Russian masters to colonize it. All three, however, claim their share of

it,—have their regular boundary lines,—and each mulcts the miserable

Laplander of an annual tribute, in the shape of a small poll-tax. Each,

too, has _forced_ his own peculiar views of Christianity on those within

his borders,—the Russian has shaped the Lap into a Greek Christian;

while, under Swedish influence, he is a disciple of Martin Luther. His

faith, however, is not very rational, one way or the other; and, in

out-of-the-way corners of his chaotic country, he still adheres to some

of his old mythic customs of sorcery and witchcraft: in other words, he

is a “pagan.”

Before proceeding to describe the Laplander, either personally or

intellectually, a word about the country in which he dwells. I have

called it a _chaotic_ land. It has been described as a “huge congeries

of frightful rocks and stupendous mountains, with many pleasant valleys,

watered by an infinite number of rivulets, that run into the rivers and

lakes.” Some of the lakes are of large extent, containing a countless

number of islands; one alone—the Lake Enaro—having so many, that it has

been said no Laplander has lived long enough to visit each particular

island. There is a great variety in the surface of the land. In some

parts of the country the eye rests only on peaks and ridges of bleak,

barren mountains,—on summits covered with never-melting snow,—on bold,

rocky cliffs or wooded slopes, where only the firs and birches can

flourish. In other parts there are dusky forests of pines, intersected

here and there by wide morasses or bogs. Elsewhere, are extensive tracts

of treeless champaign, covered with the white reindeer-lichen, as if

they were under a fall of snow!

During summer there are many green and beautiful spots, where even the

rose sheds its fragrance around, and many berry-bearing bushes blossom

brightly; but the summer is of short duration, and in those parts where

it is most attractive, the pest of gnats, mosquitoes, and gad-flies,

renders the country uninhabitable to the Laplander. We shall see

presently, that, in the summer months, he flees from such lowland

scenes, as from a pestilence; and betakes himself and his herd to the

bleak, barren mountains.

Having given this short sketch of the country inhabited by the

Laplander, we proceed to a description of himself.

He is short,—not more than five feet five inches, average height,—squat

and stoutish,—rarely corpulent,—though there is a difference in all

these respects, between those who inhabit different parts of the

country. The Laps of Norwegian Lapland are taller than those in the

Russian and Swedish territory.

His features are small, his eyes elongated, or slit-like, as among the

Mongolian tribes; his cheek-bones prominent,—his mouth large and wide,

and his chin sharply pointed. His hair is black, or sometimes brownish;

though among some tribes settled along the coasts light hair is not

uncommon. It is probable that this may have originated in some admixture

of blood with Norwegian, Russian, and other fishermen who frequent these

coasts.

The Laplander has little or no beard; and in this respect he resembles

the Greenlander and Esquimaux. His body is ill made, bony and muscular,

and stronger than would be expected from his pigmy stature. He is

active, and capable of enduring extreme fatigue and privation; though it

is a mistake to suppose that he is the agile creature he has been

represented,—this error arising no doubt from the surprising speed with

which habit has enabled him to skate over the frozen snow; and which, to

a person unused to it, would appear to prove an extraordinary degree of

agility. The hands and feet are small,—another point in common with the

Esquimaux. The Laplander’s voice is far from being a manly one. On the

contrary, it is of small compass, weak, and of a squeaking tone. The

complexion of the Laplander is generally regarded as _dark_. Its natural

hue is perhaps not much darker than that of the Norwegian. Certainly not

darker than many Portuguese or Spaniards; but, as he is seen, he appears

as swarth as an Indian. This, however, arises from the long and almost

constant exposure to smoke: in the midst of which the miserable creature

spends more than half of his time.

It may again be observed, that those dwelling on the sea-shore are of

lighter complexion; but perhaps that is also due to a foreign admixture.

We have given a picture of the Laplander’s person; now a word or two

about his mind.

Both his intellectual and moral man are peculiar,—even more so than his

physical,—differing essentially from that of all the other nationalities

with which he is brought in contact. He is cold-hearted, selfish, and

morose. To love he is almost a stranger; and when such a feeling does

exist within his bosom, it is rather as a spark than a passion. His

courtship and marriage are pure matters of business,—rarely having any

other motive than self-interest. One woman will do for his wife as well

as another; and better, if she be richer by half a dozen reindeer!

Hospitality is a virtue equally unknown to him. He wishes to see no

stranger; and even wonders why a stranger should stray into his wild,

bleak country. He is ever suspicious of the traveller through his land;

unless that traveller chance to come in the guise of a Russian or

Norwegian merchant, to exchange strong brandy for his reindeer-skins, or

the furs of the animals he may have trapped. In his dealings he exhibits

a sufficient degree of cunning,—much more than might be expected from

the low standard of his intellect; and he will take no paper-money or

any kind of “scrip” in exchange. This caution, however, he has acquired

from a terrible experience, which he once had in dealing with

paper-money; and he is determined that the folly shall never again be

repeated. Even in _his_ out-of-the way corner of the globe, there was at

one time a bank speculation of the “Anglo-Bengalee” character, of which

the poor Lap was made an especial victim.

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