Before leaving the magistrate's _estancia_ I had made up my mind to
return by the shortest route, and as quickly as possible, to Montevideo;
and that morning, mounted on a well-rested horse, I covered a great deal
of ground. By twelve o'clock, when I stopped to rest my horse and get
some refreshment at a wayside _pulpería_, I had got over about eight
leagues. This was travelling at an imprudent pace, of course; but in the
Banda Orientál it is so easy to pick up a fresh horse that one becomes
somewhat reckless. My journey that morning had taken me over the eastern
portion of the Durazno district, and I was everywhere charmed with the
beauty of the country, though it was still very dry, the grass on the
higher lands being burnt to various shades of yellow and brown. Now,
however, the summer heats were over, for the time was near the end of
February; the temperature, without being oppressive, was deliciously
warm, so that travelling on horseback was delightful. I might fill
dozens of pages with descriptions of pretty bits of country I passed
that day, but must plead guilty of an unconquerable aversion to this
kind of writing. After this candid confession, I hope the reader will
not quarrel with me for the omission; besides, anyone who cares for
these things, and knows how evanescent are the impressions left by word
pictures on the mind, can sail the seas and gallop round the world
to see them all for himself. It is not, however, every wanderer from
England--I blush while saying it--who can make himself familiar with the
home habits, the ways of thought and speech, of a distant people. Bid me
discourse of lowly valley, lofty height, of barren waste, shady wood,
or cooling stream where I have drunk and been refreshed; but all these
places, pleasant or dreary, must be in the kingdom called the heart.
After getting some information about the country I had to traverse from
the _pulpero_, who told me that I would probably reach the River
Yí before evening, I resumed my journey. About four o'clock in the
afternoon I came to an extensive wood of thorn-trees, of which the
_pulpero_ had spoken, and, in accordance with his instructions, I
skirted it on the eastern side. The trees were not large, but there was
an engaging wildness about this forest, full of the musical chatter of
birds, which tempted me to alight from my horse and rest for an hour in
the shade. Taking the bit from his mouth to let him feed, I threw myself
down on the dry grass under a clump of shady thorns, and for half
an hour watched the sparkling sunlight falling through the foliage
overhead, and listened to the feathered people that came about me,
loudly chirping, apparently curious to know what object had brought me
to their haunts. Then I began to think of all the people I had recently
mixed with: the angry magistrate and his fat wife--horrid woman!--and
Marcos Marcó, that shabby rascal, rose up before me to pass quickly
away, and once more I was face to face with that lovely mystery
Margarita. In imagination I put forth my hands to take hers, and
drew her towards me so as to look more closely into her eyes, vainly
questioning them as to their pure sapphire hue. Then I imagined or
dreamt that with trembling fingers I unbraided her hair to let it fall
like a splendid golden mantle over her mean dress, and asked her how
she came to possess that garment of glory. The sweet, grave, child lips
smiled, but returned no answer. Then a shadowy face seemed to shape
itself dimly against the green curtain of foliage, and, looking over
the fair girl's shoulder, gaze sadly into my eyes. It was the face of
Paquíta. Ah, sweet wife, never let the green-eyed monster trouble the
peace of your heart! Know that the practical Saxon mind of your
husband is puzzling itself over a purely scientific problem, that this
surpassingly fair child interests me only because her fairness seems to
upset all physiological laws. I was, in fact, just sinking to sleep
at this moment when the shrill note of a trumpet blown close by and
followed by loud shouts from several voices made me spring instantly to
my feet. A storm of answering shouts came from another quarter of the
wood, then followed profound silence. Presently the trumpet sounded
again, making me feel very much alarmed. My first impulse was to spring
on to my horse and ride away for dear life; but, on second thoughts, I
concluded that it would be safer to remain concealed amongst the trees,
as by leaving them I should only reveal myself to the robbers or rebels,
or whatever they were. I bridled my horse so as to be ready to run, then
drew him into a close thicket of dark-foliaged bushes and fastened him
there. The silence that had fallen on the wood continued, and at last,
unable to bear the suspense longer, I began to make my way cautiously,
revolver in hand, towards the point the sounds had proceeded from.
Stealing softly through the bushes and trees where they grew near
together, I came at length in sight of an open piece of ground, about
two or three hundred yards wide, and overgrown with grass. Near its
border on one side I was amazed to see a group of about a dozen boys,
their ages ranging from about ten to fifteen, all standing perfectly
motionless. One of them held a trumpet in his hand, and they all wore
red handkerchiefs or rags tied round their heads. Suddenly, while I
crouched amongst the leafage watching them, a shrill note sounded from
the opposite side of the open space, and another troop of boys wearing
white on their heads burst from the trees and advanced with loud shouts
of _vivas_ and _mueras_ towards the middle of the ground. Again the red
heads sounded their trumpet, and went out boldly to meet the new-comers.
As the two bands approached each other, each led by a big boy, who
turned at intervals and with many wild gestures addressed his followers,
apparently to encourage them, I was amazed to see them all suddenly
draw out long knives, such as the native horsemen usually wear, and
rush furiously together. In a moment they were mingled together in a
desperate fight, uttering the most horrible yells, their long weapons
glittering in the sunshine as they brandished them about. With such fury
did they fight that in a few moments all the combatants lay stretched
out on the grass, excepting three boys wearing the red badges. One of
these bloodthirsty young miscreants then snatched up the trumpet and
blew a victorious blast, while the other two shrieked an accompaniment
of _vivas_ and _mueras_. While they were thus occupied one of the
white-headed boys struggled to his feet, and, snatching up a knife,
charged the three reds with desperate courage. Had I not been perfectly
paralysed with amazement at what I had witnessed, I should then have
rushed out to aid this boy in his forlorn attempt; but in an instant his
three foes were on him and dragged him down to the ground. Two of them
then held him fast by the legs and arms, the other raised his long
knife, and was just about to plunge it in the struggling captive's
breast, when, uttering a loud yell, I sprang up and rushed at them.
Instantly they started up and fled screaming towards the trees in the
greatest terror; and then, most wonderful thing of all, the dead boys
all came to life, and, springing to their feet, fled from me after the
others. This brought me to a stand, when, seeing that one of the boys
limped painfully after his companions, hopping on one leg, I made a
sudden dash and captured him before he could reach the shelter of the
trees.
“Oh, señor, do not kill me!” he pleaded, bursting into tears.
“I have no wish to kill you, you unspeakable young miscreant, but I
think I ought to thrash you,” I answered, for, though greatly relieved
at the turn things had taken, I was excessively annoyed at having
experienced all those sensations of blood-curdling horror for nothing.
“We were only playing at Whites and Reds,” he pleaded.
I then made him sit down and tell me all about this singular game.
None of the boys lived very near, he said; some of them came a distance
of several leagues, and they had selected this locality for their sports
on account of its seclusion, for they did not like to be found out.
Their game was a mimic war of Whites and Reds, manoeuvres, surprises,
skirmishes, throat-cutting, and all.
I pitied the young patriot at the last, for he had sprained his ankle
badly and could scarcely walk, and so assisted him to the spot where
his horse was hidden; then, having helped him to mount and given him a
cigarette, for which he had the impudence to ask me, I laughingly bade
him good-bye. I went back to look for my own horse after that, beginning
to feel very much amused at the whole thing; but, alas! my steed was
gone. The young scoundrels had stolen him, to revenge themselves on me,
I suppose, for disturbing them; and to relieve me from all doubt in the
matter they left two bits of rag, one white and the other red, attached
to the branch I had fastened the bridle to. For some time I wandered
about the wood, and even shouted aloud in the wild hope that the young
fiends were not going to carry things so far as to leave me without
a horse in that solitary place. Nothing could I see or hear of them,
however, and as it was getting late and I wasbecoming desperately hungry
and thirsty, I resolved to go in search of some habitation.
On emerging from the forest I found the adjacent plain covered with
cattle quietly grazing. Any attempt to pass through the herd would have
been almost certain death, as these more than half-wild beasts will
always take revenge on their master man when they catch him dismounted
in the open. As they were coming up from the direction of the river, and
were slowly grazing past the wood, I resolved to wait for them to pass
on before leaving my concealment. I sat down and tried to be patient,
but the brutes were in no hurry, and went on skirting the wood at a
snail's pace. It was about six o'clock before the last stragglers had
left, and then I ventured out from my hiding-place, hungry as a wolf and
afraid of being overtaken by night before finding any human habitation.
I had left the trees half a mile behind me, and was walking hurriedly
along towards the valley of the Yí, when, passing over a hillock,
I suddenly found myself in sight of a bull resting on the grass and
quietly chewing his cud. Unfortunately the brute saw me at the same
moment and immediately stood up. He was, I think, about three or four
years old, and a bull of that age is even more dangerous than an older
one; for he is quite as truculent as the other and far more active.
There was no refuge of any kind near, and I knew very well that to
attempt to escape by running would only increase my danger, so after
gazing at him for a few moments I assumed an easy, unconcerned manner
and walked on; but he was not going to be taken in that way, and began
to follow me. Then for the first, and I devoutly hope for the last, time
in my life I was compelled to resort to the gaucho plan, and, casting
myself face downwards on the earth, lay there simulating death. It is
a miserable, dangerous expedient, but, in the circumstances I found
myself, the only one offering a chance of escape from a very terrible
death. In a few moments I heard his heavy tramp, then felt him sniffing
me all over. After that he tried unsuccessfully to roll me over, in
order to study my face, I suppose. It was horrible to endure the
prods he gave me and lie still, but after a while he grew quieter, and
contented himself by simply keeping guard over me; occasionally smelling
at my head, then turning round to smell at my heels. Probably his theory
was, if he had one, that I had fainted with fear at the sight of him and
would recover presently, but he was not quite sure at which end of me
returning life would first show itself. About once in every five or six
minutes he seemed to get impatient, and then he would paw me with his
heavy hoof, uttering a low, hoarse moaning, spattering me with froth
from his mouth; but as he showed no disposition to leave, I at last
resolved to try a very bold experiment, for my position was becoming
unendurable. I waited till the brute's head was turned from me, then
worked my hand cautiously down to my revolver; but before I had quite
drawn it, he noticed the movement and wheeled swiftly round, kicking my
legs as he did so. Just as he brought his head round close to mine, I
discharged the weapon in his face, and the sudden explosion so terrified
him that he turned tail and fled, never pausing in his lumbering gallop
till he was out of sight. It was a glorious victory; and though I could
scarcely stand on my legs at first, so stiff and bruised did I feel all
over, I laughed with joy, and even sent another bullet whizzing after
the retreating monster, accompanying the discharge with a wild yell of
triumph.
After that I proceeded without further interruption on my walk, and, had
I not felt so ravenously hungry and so sore where the bull had trod
on me or prodded me with his horns, the walk would have been very
enjoyable, for I was now approaching the Yí. The ground grew moist and
green, and flowers abounded, many of them new to me, and so lovely and
fragrant that in my admiration for them I almost forgot my pain. The
sun went down, but no house appeared in sight. Over the western heavens
flamed the brilliant hues of the afterglow, and from the long grass came
the sad, monotonous trill of some night insect. Troops of hooded
gulls flew by me on their way from their feeding grounds to the water,
uttering their long, hoarse, laughter-like cries. How buoyant and happy
they seemed, flying with their stomachs full to their rest; while I,
dismounted and supperless, dragged painfully on like a gull that had
been left behind with a broken wing. Presently, through the purple and
saffron-hued vapours in the western sky, the evening star appeared,
large and luminous, the herald of swift-coming darkness; and
then--weary, bruised, hungry, baffled, and despondent--I sat down to
meditate on my forlorn position.