[Illustration: THE BEY OF TUNIS.]
THE
CAVE DWELLERS
OF
SOUTHERN TUNISIA
RECOLLECTIONS OF A SOJOURN WITH THE
KHALIFA OF MATMATA
_TRANSLATED FROM THE DANISH OF_
_DANIEL BRUUN_
BY
L. A. E. B.
LONDON: W. THACKER & CO., 2 CREED LANE, E.C.
CALCUTTA: THACKER, SPINK, & CO.
1898
[_All Rights Reserved_]
PREFACE
* * * * *
My journey among the cave dwellers of Southern Tunisia was essentially
one of research, since I was entrusted by Doctor Sophius Müller,
Director of the Second Department of the National Museum, with the
honourable task of purchasing ethnographical objects for the said
museum.
On submitting this work to the public, it is incumbent upon me to offer
my sincere thanks to all those who afforded me support and help in my
travels: the Minister of Foreign Affairs, at whose recommendation
Cubisol, the Danish Consul in Tunis, addressed himself to the French
Regency, and obtained permission for me to travel through the country,
and also an escort, guides, etc. Doctor Müller and Chamberlain Vedel,
whose respective introductions, given from the National Museum and the
Society concerned with ancient manuscripts, and addressed to other
similar institutions, introduced me not only to these, but also to
those remarkably scientific men, Gauckler and Doctor Bertholon, whose
friendship I have to thank for much information and assistance.
England’s Representative in Tunis, Drummond Hay, may be said to have
traced my path through Tunisia, as, on the basis of his remarkable
knowledge of both individuals and of relative circumstances, he
sketched a plan of my journey, from which I required to make little or
no deviation. The Government and officers in El Arad, the officials,
both military and civilian, showed me the greatest hospitality, and
assisted me in the highest degree; Colonels Billet and Gousset
especially claim my warmest gratitude.
Much of what I have recorded has been left in its original form,
namely, as letters written home, some to my wife, some to other
persons, as, for instance, to the publisher, Herr Hegel. I have not
altered these lest they might lose the fresh impression under which
they were written. Several portions were composed with a view to
publication in the French journal the _Revue Tunisienne_, and in the
Parisian magazine _Le Tour du Monde_.
The illustrations were obtained from various sources. Albert, the
photographer in Tunis, obligingly allowed me to make use of a number
of photographs, from which were chiefly drawn the views of the town
and of the sea-coast. With a detective camera I myself took some
instantaneous photographs on the journey from Gabés to the mountains,
of which a number are introduced. Besides these, Mr. Knud Gamborg has
engraved some drawings of my own. Mr. Gauckler also gave me the free
use of the sketches already published in his _Collection Beylicale_,
from which were selected the pictures of the villages in the Matmata
mountains. Lastly, from the wife of Consul Henriksen at Sfax I received
two paintings, which are reproduced.
When, in the spring, I made an expedition to Greenland, I left my
manuscript with my friend Doctor Kragelund, of Hobro, who had already
afforded me his assistance, and gave him full powers to arrange the
somewhat heterogeneous materials. In my absence he corrected the proofs
as they came from the press, and has therefore taken a very important
part in my work, and enabled it to be published in its present form.
For this act of friendship I tender him my warmest thanks.
DANIEL BRUUN.
_November_ 1894.
NOTE.—The fact of three years having elapsed since the Danish original
of the _Cave Dwellers_ was published, renders the letter form of which
the author speaks somewhat unsuitable for translation. It has been
necessary, therefore, in many cases to modify that form, and also to
omit certain passages in the work as being of little or no interest
to English readers.
CONTENTS
* * * * *
CHAP. PAGE
I. WITH DRUMMOND HAY IN TUNIS 1
II. SUSA 5
III. FROM SFAX TO GABÉS 17
IV. FROM GABÉS TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 32
V. RETURN TO GABÉS 59
VI. OF THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS AND THEIR INHABITANTS 93
VII. FROM GABÉS TO THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA—THE SHOTTS 116
VIII. THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 129
IX. OVER AGLAT MERTEBA TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 152
X. BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 158
XI. OVER THE MOUNTAINS AND ACROSS THE PLAIN FROM
HADEIJ TO METAMER 197
XII. METAMER AND MEDININ 217
XIII. SOUTHWARDS OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 233
XIV. DUIRAT 243
XV. THE TUAREG 253
XVI. BACK TO TUNIS 274
XVII. TUNIS 285
SUPPLEMENT—THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA: A SYNOPSIS 292
COSTUMES—THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 324
POSTSCRIPT 334
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
* * * * *
PAGE
THE BEY OF TUNIS _Frontispiece_
DRUMMOND HAY, BRITISH CONSUL-GENERAL AT TUNIS 3
SUSA 8
TWO KHRUMIR WOMEN 13
AT SFAX 20
TOWER IN THE VILLAGE OF MENZEL 24
JEWESSES AT MENZEL 25
ON THE OASIS OF GABÉS 28
WASHERWOMEN AT THE JARA BRIDGE 30
MAP OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA 33
PLOUGHING—GABÉS 37
JEWISH FAMILY IN A CAVE DWELLING IN HADEIJ 43
CAVES IN MATMATA 45
A CAVE DWELLING, MATMATA 46
THE BRIDAL FESTIVITIES 49
HOLD UP! 59
EXCAVATED STABLE 62
BERBER WOMAN OF THE VILLAGE OF JUDLIG 65
A CAVE INTERIOR 66
FALCONERS 77
MANSUR 100
SECTIONS OF DWELLING IN MATMATA WHERE I LIVED—PLAN 103
MEDININ 112
BEDOUIN WOMEN GROUPED BEFORE THEIR HUT 113
AT GABÉS 117
IN THE MOUNTAINS—ON THE ROAD TO AIN HAMMAM 120
REARING 156
CAMEL WITH CANOPY 169
THE BRIDE ESCORTED OVER THE MOUNTAINS 176
FANTASIA 179
A STREET IN BENI BARKA 219
MEDININ 224
DUIRAT 245
SHENINI 248
A HALT IN THE DESERT—TENT OF A TRIBAL CHIEF 251
A TUAREG 254
A TUAREG 262
MOORISH WOMEN IN A STREET IN TUNIS 289
THE CAVE DWELLERS OF
SOUTHERN TUNISIA
* * * * *
CHAPTER I
WITH DRUMMOND HAY IN TUNIS
Though the midday sun still shone bright and hot, I sat at my ease
and breathed again in the pleasant atmosphere of a cool drawing-room,
from which the stifling air and the flies were excluded by closely
drawn blinds.
I had just arrived from Tunis by rail, over the scorching hot
plain, and past the milky-white shallow lagoon known as the Lake of
Tunis. Beyond Goletta the blue hills seemed to quiver beneath the rays
of the sun, and my eyes were blinded by the dazzling white walls of
the cathedral standing on the heights, where, in olden days, Byrsa,
the fortress of Carthage, stood, defying the invader and the storm.
As we sped over the traces of the mighty circular wall, which formerly
enclosed the town, I caught a glimpse of a white roof amongst the
green trees of a wood, and requested the conductor to stop the train
at the English Consul’s summer abode.
Down a pretty shady avenue I walked to the white summer palace,
with its beautiful columned portico, the finest in all Tunisia.
It is a proud name that my host bears,—a name associated with
unfailing honour in the history of Morocco. His late father, Sir
J. H. Drummond Hay, as England’s Representative, practically
led Morocco’s policy during the past forty years. He represented
Denmark also, and under him his son won his diplomatic spurs.
My host had invited me that we might quietly arrange a plan for my
intended expedition to visit the Berber tribes of Tunisia.
I was aware that in the south-west mountains of the Sahara I should
meet with Berbers of a pure race such as are scarcely to be found
elsewhere. Our country’s excellent Representative, Consul Cubisol,
had procured me a French permit for the journey, without which
it would be difficult for a lonely traveller to visit regions
unfrequented by Europeans.
In the spring, Drummond Hay had made a tour on horseback over the
greater part of Southern Tunisia; he was therefore acquainted,
not only with the localities, but also with several of the native
chiefs who would be able to assist me. He understands the people
and their country thoroughly, for he speaks Arabic like a native,
and is quite conversant with the life, opinions, manners, and customs
of the inhabitants. His wife had travelled far and wide with him in
Morocco when he was serving under his father, and accompanied him to
the capital of Morocco; so she also is well versed in Oriental life.
[Illustration: DRUMMOND HAY, BRITISH CONSUL-GENERAL AT TUNIS.]
Together we traced the plan of my journey, which, in the main, I
afterwards followed. Here I will not anticipate what I shall relate
later; only premising this—that I owe first and foremost to Drummond
Hay the fact of having comprised in my journey those regions which no
traveller has as yet described. To him I was also afterwards indebted
for the elucidation and explanation of what I had seen and heard.
Both my host and hostess had resided for many years in Stockholm,
when Drummond Hay was Consul there. The north has great attractions
for them, as Drummond Hay’s mother was a Dane, a Carstensen,
being daughter of the last Danish Consul-General at Tangier.
England has great interests in Tunis, not only directly on account
of the many Maltese living there under British protection, but
also indirectly, more especially since the French settled in the
country; it will therefore be understood that the post of British
Representative is one of confidence.