HINTS ON FALL TRAPPING.
Before the readers of the H-T-T receive the November issue the death
sentence will have been passed and executed upon many a luck-less
fur-bearer whose hides will be "on the fence," for in many states
trapping can be done at any time, more is the pity, writes a Michigan
trapper and buyer. In Michigan no trapping is allowed until November
1st, which is plenty soon enough. Last season I saw many hundreds of
skunk, coon and mink and also opossum skins that had been taken in
October and were only trash. It was a worthless, wasteful slaughter.
Muskrats are the only animals that may, with reason, be taken during
the first half of October and yet it is better to wait until general
collections are good.
I will first ask the amateur if he uses the precaution to stake his
rat and mink traps at water sets with bushes instead of stakes. They
do not attract the attention of hunters and other stragglers and
especially boys as does the new whittled wood of a stake; sometimes
it is necessary to go still farther than this and cut a short stake
and shove it entirely out of sight under water or mud.
[Illustration: EASTERN MINK--NOVEMBER CAUGHT.]
When you find where a rat is working slightly in many places along a
bank and you do not know just where to place your trap, dig a little
place in the bank at the water's edge and up above it and set your
trap in the entrance under the water a half inch. This will attract
the rat and you will most likely get him. It helps to pin down a
rat's leg or other small portion of the carcass in the excavation
just mentioned. Rats will not eat the meat, but it is sure to draw
them into the trap; and then by baiting with rat flesh you will often
get a mink.
After you have caught a rat at feeding signs or in any other
inconspicuous place and you do not get more after two nights, it is
well to move your trap to a new place. I generally trap three nights
on one stretch of ground and then take up all except now and then one
occupying the most favored positions; the remaining traps will catch
the stragglers and the traps you remove and reset will be on guard to
a purpose.
Be careful and do not dry your furs by the fire. I saw many lots of
rats last fall and into the winter that would break like glass, the
skins had been made so brittle by the fire-drying process. It makes
the pelt side look dark and unprime as well.
In setting for mink, follow water setting as long as possible and set
under over-hanging roots and banks where the tracks are seen or where
a log lies up so as to permit the mink's passing under and, in short,
wherever the game is most apt to pass thru or under as is the mink's
habit. Where there is no timber and the banks are low, then the main
dependence is on making a trench as described and pinning down a
portion of muskrat.
[Illustration: MUSKRAT HOUSE.]
I will also say that I have found rat houses a capital place to catch
mink. Both coon and mink visit rat houses that are nearest to shore;
knowing this, after you have caught off the rats, dig a hole in the
side of the house and throw in a portion of a muskrat. Set jour trap
at entrance covered with water or thin mud and if there is a mink or
coon that visits the house you will get him if things don't go
contrary, the trap fail to get hold or some other ill luck occur.
When a coon is expected a long hardwood stake should be used. I have
had a number blunder into rat traps, chew the soft popple or willow
stake all to pieces and go off with the trap. And they have never
returned one yet.
A word more on the mink question. When I find a place that mink are
most sure to pass thru or under, I do not use bait. Especially if the
mink is old and cunning and has been trapped, or one that has been
nipped by a trap and become "bait shy." For these I make blind sets
only. My trap and chain is under water and also my stake.
The trap is barely covered by water or mud and an old leaf or two
that is watersoaked is laid on the trap. If I think there is a chance
for the mink to avoid the trap, I lean up an old chunk or dead stick
against the bank with the lower end just beyond the trap next to deep
water. It is plain to be seen that if he goes behind that prop he
will hear something drop. I have caught many a mink in this manner
that have eluded all the trappers in my neighborhood.
Several years ago an old trapper and myself fought a friendly contest
in our endeavor to catch a sly old dog mink. He traveled on a creek
which was a mere thread. My competitor was a strong believer in bait
and before a week had passed he had tried muskrat, fish, birds and
frogs. The mink passed nightly but ignored all these offerings, the
main reason being that a meadow near by teemed with mice.
Calling the mink a "bad one," he invited me to try my hand. He had
about a dozen baited traps set. I took one good No. 1 Newhouse and
selecting a place where the bank was undermined and the mink's track
could be seen on a shelf, I placed my trap next to the bank, placed
the leaves of a long soaked weed over the trap which was barely
submerged. I then took a large weed that was full of branches and
thrust it in the bed of the stream, so close to the trap that the
mink would be liable to pass between it and the bank. The next
morning I met the old trapper coming back from his round. "Well, did
you get 'im?" I asked.
"No, but you did and I killed him for ye and he's a whalin' big one,"
he added rather dryly. His disappointment was but poorly disguised
and like the "fox and grape fable" he comforted his chagrin by
saying: "He probably blundered in, with so many traps set, how could
he help it? I'd a ketched 'im in a night or two." I did not dispute
this statement, but kept a deal of thinking.
All thru November skunks will be visiting old dens looking up winter
quarters to suit and wandering with their usual lawlessness. By
placing traps in the entrance of these holes you will catch some of
the striped gentry, but your catch will be vastly greater if you
bait. Many skunks only look down a hole and do not enter, which they
would do if you place a bait of muskrat, rabbit or chicken below the
trap at each setting. The skunk is such a glutton that altho he may
be gorged to repletion he will still try to encompass more if it is
food to his liking.
Quite a number of trappers wish to know how skunk catching can be
done without odor. Boys, don't be afraid of the odor. Wear old
clothes and discard them at the close of day. The perfume that the
first skunk gives off when you dispatch him is an advantage to you.
It draws others. So having caught one, keep your trap there. I have
had a trap set at a den for a long time without its being disturbed,
but as soon as I caught one several more got fast in quick
succession.