HOW TO SET.
Here is a very difficult question, How to Set? yet by carefully
noting the illustrations in this chapter we believe that many will be
benefited, especially inexperienced trappers. Some trappers have
continued to set their traps, after years of experience with springs
sticking straight out, that is, so that the animal will step upon the
spring first. This often warns them of the danger. Others set traps
without a sign of covering. In each instance they may catch a few
rabbits and perhaps a skunk or two, but they are not trappers and
will not catch much game.
Having decided where you are going to set, if at a den, make an
excavation the size of the trap and about an inch deep, place the
trap in the position (just at the entrance of den) and so that an
animal in going in or coming out will not step on the spring but on
the pan of the trap.
The trap should be in such a position that the animal will approach
if preferably from the end opposite the spring. If the whereabouts of
the animal cannot be determined, then the next best way for him to
approach is from the spring end of the jaws, the spring always being
thrown around towards the cross piece, out of the way.
[Illustration: HOLE SET BEFORE COVERING.]
If setting in a path in a run beside a log or a similar situation,
set the jaws endways, not across the path and bring the pan a little
to one side of the center, as near as you can judge where the animal
will place his foot as he steps over the stick, stone or other object
you have prepared for the purpose.
Many trappers place traps well back in the den, but our experience
has taught us not to do this. A trapper who has followed the tracks
of an animal, in the snow, has undoubtedly noticed that he went to
scores of dens but turned away after going to the mouth of most of
them. From this it will readily be seen that a trap set well back in
the den would not be disturbed, while set as shown would perhaps have
caught the animal.
After the trap is set, leaves, moss, grass, etc., should be carefully
placed over the trap and chain, so that everything will appear as
natural as possible. In covering traps, use whatever kind of material
that was in mouth of den, that is, if the den was filled with leaves,
cover the trap with leaves, etc. In this illustration the trap is
purposely left uncovered so that trappers can see the position the
trap should be in.
[Illustration: ANOTHER HOLE SET BEFORE COVERING.]
If there are other entrances to the den they should all be closed,
with the exception of the one where the trap is set. The only time
that it is advisable to close all entrances is when you are sure that
an animal is within. You are only sure of this when your dog has
holed an animal, or you have tracked one in the snow into the den.
There may be times, however, when you have your traps baited and the
bait has been taken from the inside. In such cases you feel confident
that the game is within. At such times it may be the best policy to
close up the entrance and set your trap within, yet, if properly set,
you are reasonably sure to make a catch when the animal ventures out
and also have a chance to make a catch, should an animal happen along
on the outside.
Traps should be set carefully and everything around the den left as
natural as before setting. Dig a hole for your trap and carefully
cover trap and chain with dirt, leaves or grass. Be careful that
nothing gets under treadle of trap. After once setting traps, go only
near enough to see that they are not sprung or containing game.
[Illustration: HOLE SET AFTER COVERING.]
When setting trap in wet earth, place paper, cat tail, dry leaves,
grass or some substance under trap so that during freezing weather
the earth will not freeze to spring and jaws, thus preventing its
springing when an animal steps on the treadle. A little wool or
cotton placed under treadle often keeps the dirt from getting under.
It pays to set traps well--in fact too much pains cannot be taken.
I often read of the disappointments of a trapper when visiting his
line of marten traps to find ermine, squirrels, blue-jays and even
mice caught in place of the animal he intended to catch.
Now this is very vexatious, as the marten has departed for a district
quite distant and is thus lost forever to him. An Indian or a regular
trapper that knows his business always puts a spring twig under the
pallet of his trap of sufficient strength to bear up the weight of
these small fry and yet not too strong to prevent the larger animals
from setting it off. In trapping for beaver and otter in open water
we always use the spring to prevent mink and musquash from getting
caught. Of course these are fur-bearers and proportionately valuable,
yet there are times one does not wish to have them in the trap.
Even in setting bear traps a spring under the pallet is used to
prevent foxes, lynx, fishers and marten from springing it. This is
doubly necessary in setting bear traps for the reason that when one
has bear traps set the foregoing animals are unprime and consequently
of next to no value. The spring for a No. 1 or a No. 1 1/2 trap is
made from a lower small branch of a balsam or tamarack tree. Why I
say lower branches is because it is not so full of gum and suppleness
as the top branches, while not actually dry, it is sufficiently so to
impart a spring effect.
[Illustration: WRONG POSITION SET.]
It is broken off about four inches in length and freed of needles.
One end is introduced into the eye of the spring and the other end is
deflected over and under the trap pan. By moving it out towards the
outer part of the pan a greater strength and resistance can be
obtained--lessening by pushing it the contrary way. For beaver or
otter traps we usually take the root of a small spruce or tamarack,
and for a bear trap, instead of putting one end into the eye of the
spring, we cut a shorter and stouter piece and bend it over like this
and it is placed under the pan; the two ends are carefully flattened
and squared off to prevent slipping.
After a little practice a man becomes quite an expert as to the
proper tension required and it is very rarely a real trapper catches
anything but what the trap was set for. This article is written for
the benefit of beginners in the profession of trapping and not as a
reflection on the knowledge of "Old Pards."
A splendid all around covering for traps wherever available (and I
speak from experience) is hemlock fanlike tips, writes a New York
state trapper. Use only the flat spreading ends with thin stems to
blanket trap--a single layer is enough for all practical purposes.
This is the general purpose covering, suitable for all kinds of
weather. The strong natural scent of the hemlock seems to inspire
confidence, overcoming animal fear and caution. It neutralizes and
makes harmless all unnatural scents so obnoxious to wild animals and
prevents under pan obstruction.
During the snowy weather, roof over the trap with brush, hemlock
boughs, bark or such, with openings on all sides. Build the roof high
and wide enough to sufficiently protect the trap and covering from
snow and sleet. A good trapper uses only good traps.
I will describe a few of my sets and hope they will be of value,
writes a Rocky Mountain trapper. The first will be a mink set and,
like the rest, is best prepared during the summer, then by the time
trapping begins the newness is all gone.
Set No. 1 is easily made by bending a few green willows in the shape
of the letter U; stick them in a row six inches apart so the top of
the bow will be four or five inches from the level. Cut some brush
and pile on top and a stake or two driven in will keep it from going
away in a freshet. This can be made in the water at a riffle or on
the bank of the stream and you will be surprised to note the fine
runway you have made.
[Illustration: THE THREE LOG SET.]
Set No. 2 is on the same principle, but is made of logs 8 inches in
diameter and 5 or 6 feet long. It can be cut on the dotted lines for
convenience in placing bait. Set a No. 1 1/2 or 2 trap at each end.
This is as good as a hollow log.
[Illustration: MARTEN SHELF SET.]
No. 3 is a marten shelf. Like cut, make by nailing a 2-inch stick
three or three and a half feet long on each side of a tree and cover
the projecting ends with bark--use a weight on bark to keep it from
blowing away; nail bait and place trap as shown. Use a spring pole of
some description.
[Illustration: BIG GAME SET.]
No. 4 is my favorite for bear, mountain lion and in fact all larger
game. Choose two trees near together and place a pole from one to the
other on which to hang the bait; 1 is bait the height of which should
be varied according to the game sought and 2 is the pole on which
bait is hung; it can be nailed on or laid in forks.
In setting steel traps the beginner is generally very careless. He
simply sets his trap on the bare ground, brushes a few leaves over it
and stakes it fast, or staples it fast to a stump or tree. As a rule
he finds that the wind has blown the leaves off his trap, leaving it
bare, or it has frozen fast to the ground, or if it has made a catch
the game has escaped.
In setting a steel trap, dig a hole an inch deep and the size and
shape of the trap when set. Line this hole with dry leaves and set
the trap in it, filling in between the jaws with dry moss and
covering with dry, light substance in keeping with the surroundings.
For trapping the shyer animals the smell of iron should be destroyed,
which may be done by boiling the trap in cedar or hemlock tips. The
trap should be covered with these tips so that trap and bed all smell
alike. Do not make any tracks or have the bushes or grass trampled
down around the trap. Animals are more afraid of human signs than
they are of human scent, at least I have found it so.
In setting the trap, be sure that the jaws lie down solid or the
animal may tip the trap over by stepping on a jaw and you will think
that you have a very cunning animal to deal with.
If the trap is set at a den or enclosure, turn the spring to one side
so the animal will not step on the spring. I prefer the Blake pattern
trap as the trap may be set with the spring pointing straight out
from the enclosure and the animal steps between the jaws, not over
them. Be sure, when setting at a den or covered enclosure that the
opening over the trap is large enough to allow the animal to walk
over the trap, for if they must crawl over it they are apt to snap
the trap by pressing against it and all the trapper finds is a little
bunch of fur. In setting traps on dry land do not stake it down as
the game will often escape by pulling its foot out of the trap. It is
much better to fasten the trap to a brush drag. I leave a good stout
prong near the big end of the brush. Bend this prong down and slip
the ring over it.
[Illustration: RING OR LOOP FASTENING.]
When making a water set I stake the trap into the water full length
of the chain. If the water is deep use the sliding pole. If you are
trapping muskrats, clean out all snags and brush from around the trap
or the rat may cut its skin in its struggles, which will lessen its
value.
Here is a method of drowning the beaver and otter which was told me
by an old trapper. Take a good stout wire about eight or ten feet
long and fasten it to the end of the trap chain. A heavy stone is
tied to the chain of the trap and after the trap is set the wire is
stretched up or down stream and fastened to a stake driven in the
bank under water. When the game is caught it plunges into the water
and the weight of the stone and trap pulls it down to the bottom. The
trap and game are secured by pulling up on the wire. I have never
used this method, but think it would be all right.
If the trap is a "bolt" double spring, place the trap on the knee and
press down spring and insert a nail--six or eight penny will
do--under the jaw on the opposite side from the trigger or trip,
being careful to insert far enough to hold and not slip out. Then set
same as a single spring trap.
If the trap has the slip in jaws, drill a small hole in the bottom
piece just below the holes which the jaws are in for a nail. One
spring will hold the pan up. When set, press the other spring down
and pull out the nail. One trial will convince anyone that this is an
easy and quick way to set a double spring trap. I have never tried
this on anything larger than No. 4 wolf trap. Hundreds of times have
I said things that I would not say in Church or Sunday School while
setting one of these traps in the snow. Trapper language will come
forth when one pinches his fingers on a cold, frosty morning.