WELL MADE TRAPS.
Among the first requisites and of the utmost importance to successful
trapping is the possession of an outfit of _well made Steel Traps_.
That the young trappers may understand what are the requisites of a
good trap we will describe in detail one that has held its own in the
estimation of the professional trappers for sixty years, and then we
will endeavor to point out wherein the many so-called "improvements,"
that have been put on the market, have uniformly failed of success.
What the main spring is to a watch, a trap spring is to a trap, and
unless the spring is made of a properly compounded steel and is of
the right form and proportion and correctly tempered it will surely
fail and make the whole trap worse than useless.
Certain mixtures of pig iron are used in making spring steel and if
these mixtures are varied from in any particular or if the steel has
a surplus of carbon, or is deficient in that element, it will not
take a proper temper and consequently is of no value. A proper
manipulation in the rolling mill is also necessary, or the steel may
be entirely ruined in rolling.
A good spring when set should show a nearly uniform curve throughout.
This indicates that it is properly tapered so as to bring a uniform
strain on the steel. The lasting qualities of a spring are greatly
dependent on the correctness of this point.
[Illustration: A WELL MADE TRAP.]
The "bows" or holes in the spring must be of a proportion to properly
fit the jaws and have such a "twist" as will allow them to lie flat
when set, and the temper must be so moderated as not to be brittle or
"high", otherwise they may break if sprung without anything between
the jaws. For it is well known that it is a much harder strain on any
trap to be sprung thus than to snap on to the leg of an animal.
Another very important thing is to have the strength of the spring
proportioned to the size of the trap, for an excessively stiff spring
is more apt to break the leg bone of the animal and increase the
liability of "legging" as the trappers call it, while a very weak
spring may allow a vigorous animal to draw its foot out, especially
if caught low down.
And last but more important than anything else, the spring must have
just the right temper, for a bad tempered trap spring is like a bad
tempered wife, a worse than useless encumbrance. And do not let the
tyro imagine that it is easy to temper a trap spring, for it requires
a long experience and very expensive and carefully studied conditions
and apparatus to produce anything like uniform results.
Few persons realize the unusually trying conditions under which a
trap spring has to do its work, and it is safe to say that no
mechanical contrivance performs its functions with greater precision
than a well made and tempered trap spring.
A No. 1 spring weighs less than three ounces and will exert a force
of between 70 and 80 lbs., and one of these has been known to remain
under strain for over thirty years and then spring as promptly as
though just set.
The jaw of a trap should have a good wide bearing surface, otherwise
it will be apt to break the animal's leg bone, a calamity always to
be avoided, especially in dry land trapping, for as before remarked
"legging" is thus likely to follow. Anything like a sharp cutting
edge or a saw tooth is especially objectionable, for our object in
catching an animal is to obtain its fur and not to amputate its
limbs. As a prevention of "legging" the Nos. 81, 91, 91 1/2 traps,
described elsewhere, are especially designed. The pintle or end
bearings of the jaws should fit loosely in the holes to allow for
rusting and a little freezing, and there should also be a slight end
play for the same reason.
The weight and strength of a jaw should be sufficient to prevent it
from being sprung or bent enough to throw it out of its bearing when
it is set or when sprung by the animal.
Much diversity of opinion obtains regarding the proportionate size of
the pan or treadle. Some trappers like a large pan similar to that
used in the Jump trap, but it is safe to say that the greater
majority, especially among the old and experienced trappers, prefer
the smaller sizes, and for obvious reasons. When an animal steps on a
small pan he is caught to stay, but with a large one he may be
"nipped" or his foot may be thrown out altogether. At any rate his
education has been immensely advanced and it will take a trapper with
a "long head" to get him into a trap next time.
The pan should fit loosely in its bearing for as is well known,
rusting increases the size of a piece of iron and as there are four
surfaces to rust in a pan bearing, ample room must be left.
[Illustration: LIMB GROWING THRU JAWS. This trap was made about
1875 and no part had given way from the tremendous pressure. Surely a
good Newhouse.]
The dog or latch should be thick and narrow rather than wide, as
presenting less surface for the animal to step on. It should be
curved and pointed in such a way as to hold up the pan but so as to
"go off" "easy" or "hard" in proportion to the size of the animal
trapped for. This is a nice point for each trapper to decide for
himself and it is this susceptibility to adjustment by curving or
straightening the dog that makes this old "trigger arrangement"
superior to any other that has been invented. Of course, the cross
and bottom pieces must be made in proportion to the other parts of
the trap and the experienced trapper or inspector knows how to so
bend them as to make them conform correctly therewith.
The chain should be strong enough to hold any animal for which the
trap is designed.
It goes without saying that a good swivel is indispensable, as well
as a reliable ring and wedge for fastening, and the "S" Hook
sometimes furnished will be found very convenient as a means for
attaching the trap to a drag.