shore, and with mattocks, which they had, they digged certain pits,
which grew full of fresh water, where they filled all the casks they
had. The next day they departed thence, and sailed two days, and entered
into a creek like unto a pool, fenced from the south wind, which then
did blow, and was against them; and there they stayed four days, not
being able to get out; and when the sea was calm they rowed out. They
sailed that day, and towards evening the wind grew so strong that it
drove them on the shore, and they were sorry that they had put forth
from the former harbor; for as soon as night approached, a storm began
to rise in the sea, and the wind still waxed more violent with a
tempest. The brigantines lost one another. Two of them, which bare more
into the sea, entered into an arm of the sea, which pierced into the
land two leagues beyond the place where the others were that night. The
five which stayed behind, being always a league and half a league the
one from the other, met together, without any knowledge the one of the
other, in a wild road, where the wind and the waves drove them on shore;
for their anchors did straighten and came home, and they could not use
their oars, putting seven or eight men to every one, which rowed to
seaward; and all the rest leaped into the water, and when the wave was
passed that drave the brigantine on shore, they thrust it again into the
sea with all the diligence and might that they had. Others, while
another wave was incoming, with bowls laved out the water that came in
overboard. While they were in this tempest, in great fear of being cast
away in that place, from midnight forward they endured an intolerable
torment of an infinite swarm of mosquitoes which fell upon them, which
as soon as they had stung the flesh, it so infected it, as though they
had been venomous. In the morning the sea was assuaged and the wind
slacked, but not the mosquitoes; for the sails, which were white, seemed
black with them in the morning. Those which rowed, unless others kept
them away, were not able to row. Having passed the fear and danger of
the storm, beholding the deformities of their faces, and the blows which
they gave themselves to drive them away, one of them laughed at another.
They met all together in the creek where the two brigantines were which
outwent their fellows. There was found a scum which they call copee,
which the sea casteth up, and it is like pitch, wherewith in some
places, where pitch is wanting, they pitch their ships; there they
pitched their brigantines. They rested two days, and then eftsoons
proceeded on their voyage. They sailed two days more, and landed in a
bay or arm of the sea, where they stayed two days. The same day that
they went from thence six men went up in a canoe toward the head of it,
and could not see the end of it. They put out from thence with a south
wind, which was against them; but because it was little, and for the
great desire they had to shorten their voyage, they put out to sea by
the force of oars, and for all that made very little way, with great
labor, in two days, and went under the lee of a small island into an arm
of the sea, which compassed it about. While they were there, there fell
out such weather, that they gave God many thanks that they found out
such an harbor. There was great store of fish in that place, which they
took with nets, which they had, and hooks. Here a man cast an hook and a
line into the sea, and tied the end of it to his arm, and a fish caught
it, and drew him into the water unto the neck; and it pleased God that
he remembered himself of a knife that he had, and cut the line with it.
There they abode fourteen days; and at the end of them it pleased God to
send them fair weather, for which, with great devotion, they appointed a
procession, and went in procession along the strand, beseeching God to
bring them to a land where they might serve him in better sort.
In all the coast wheresoever they digged they found fresh water; there
they filled their vessels, and the procession being ended, embarked
themselves, and going always in sight of the shore they sailed six days.
_John Danusco_ said that it would do well to bear out to seaward; for he
had seen the sea-card, and remembered that from _Rio de las Palmas_
forward, the coast did run from north to south, and thitherto they had
run from east to west, and in his opinion, by his reckoning, _Rio de las
Palmas_ could not be far off from where they were. That same night they
put to sea, and in the morning they saw palm leaves floating, and the
coast which ran north and south. From midday forward they saw great
mountains, which until then they had not seen; for from this place to
_Puerto de Spiritu Santo_, where they first landed in _Florida_, was a
very plain and low country; and therefore it cannot be descried, unless
a man comes very near it. By that which they saw, they thought they had
overshot _Rio de Palmas_ that night, which is sixty leagues from the
river _Panuco_, which is in _Nueva Espana_. They assembled all together,
and some said it was not good to sail by night, lest they should
overshoot the river of _Panuco_; and others said, it was not well to
lose time while it was favorable, and that it could not be so near that
they should pass it that night; and they agreed to take away half the
sails, and so sail all night. Two of the brigantines, which sailed that
night with all their sails, by break of day had overshot the river of
_Panuco_ without seeing it. Of the five that came behind, the first that
came unto it was that wherein _Calderan_ was captain. A quarter of a
league before they came at it, and before they did see it, they saw the
water muddy, and knew it to be fresh water; and coming right against the
river, they saw where it entered into the sea, that the water broke upon
a shoal. And because there was no man there that knew it, they were in
doubt whether they should go in, or go along; and they resolved to go
in; and before they came into the current, they went close to the shore,
and entered into the port. And as soon as they were come in, they saw
Indian men and women appareled like Spaniards, whom they asked in what
country they were? They answered in Spanish, that it was the river of
_Panuco_, and that the town of the Christians was fifteen leagues up
within the land. The joy that all of them received upon this news cannot
sufficiently be expressed; for it seemed unto them that at that instant
they were born again. And many went on shore and kissed the ground, and
kneeling on their knees, with lifting up their hands and eyes to Heaven,
they all ceased not to give God thanks. Those which came after, as soon
as they saw _Calderan_ come to an anchor with his brigantine in the
river, presently went thither, and came into the haven. The other two
brigantines which had overshot the place, put to sea to return back to
seek the rest, and could not do it, because the wind was contrary and
the sea grown; they were afraid of being cast away, and recovering the
shore they cast anchor. While they rode there a storm arose, and seeing
that they could not abide there, much less endure at sea, they resolved
to run on shore; and as the brigantines were but small, so did they draw
but little water; and where they were it was a sandy coast. By which
occasion the force of their sails drove them on shore, without any hurt
of them that were in them. As those that were in the port of _Panuco_ at
this time were in great joy; so these felt a double grief in their
hearts, for they knew not what was become of their fellows, nor in what
country they were, and feared it was a country of Indian enemies. They
landed two leagues below the port; and when they saw themselves out of
the danger of the sea, every one took of that which he had, as much as
he could carry on his back, and they traveled up into the country, and
found Indians, which told them where their fellows were, and gave them
good entertainment; wherewith their sadness was turned into joy, and
they thanked God most humbly for their deliverance out of so many
dangers.
From the time that they put out of _Rio Grande_ to the sea, at their
departure from _Florida_, until they arrived in the river of _Panuco_,
was fifty-two days. They came into the river of _Panuco_ the tenth of
September, 1543. They went up the river with their brigantines. They
traveled four days; and because the wind was but little, and many times
it served them not because of the many turnings which the river maketh,
and the great current drawing them up by towing, and that in many
places; for this cause they made very little way and with great labor;
and seeing the execution of their desire to be deferred, which was to
come among Christians, and to see the celebration of divine service,
which so long time they had not seen, they left the brigantines with the
mariners, and went by land to _Panuco_. All of them were appareled in
deers' skins tanned and dyed black, to wit, coats, hose, and shoes. When
they came to _Panuco_, presently they went to the church to pray and
give God thanks that so miraculously had saved them. The townsmen which
before were advertised by the Indians, and knew of their arrival,
carried some of them to their houses, and entertained them whom they
knew and had acquaintance of, or because they were their countrymen. The
Alcalde Mayor took the Governor home to his house: and commanded all the
rest, as soon as they came, to be lodged six and six and ten and ten,
according to the ability of every townsman. And all of them were
provided for by their hosts of many hens, and bread of maize, and fruits
of the country, which are such as be in the Isle of _Cuba_, whereof
before I have spoken. The town of _Panuco_ may contain about seventy
families; the most of their houses are of lime and stone, and some made
of timber, and all of them are thatched. It is a poor country, and there
is neither gold nor silver in it. The inhabitants live there in great
abundance of victuals and servants. The richest have not above five
hundred crowns rent a year, and that is in cotton cloths, hens, and
maize, which the Indians their servants do give them for tribute. There
arrived there of those that came out of _Florida_, three hundred and
eleven Christians. Presently the Alcalde Mayor sent one of the townsmen
in post to advertise the Viceroy, _Don Antonio de Mendoca_, which was
resident in _Mexico_, that of the people that went with _Don Ferdinando
de Soto_ to discover and conquer _Florida_ three hundred and eleven men
were arrived there, that seeing that they were employed in his majesty's
service he would take some order to provide for them. Whereat the
Viceroy, and all the inhabitants of _Mexico_ wondered; for they thought
they were miscarried because they had traveled so far within the main
land of _Florida_, and had no news of them for so long a time: and it
seemed a wonderful thing unto them, how they could save themselves so
long among infidels, without any fort, wherein they might fortify
themselves, and without any other succor at all. Presently the Viceroy
sent a warrant wherein he commanded, that whithersoever they sent they
should give them victuals, and as many Indians for their carriages as
they needed: and where they would not furnish them, they might take
those things that were necessary perforce without incurring any danger
of law. This warrant was so readily obeyed that by the way before they
came to the towns they came to receive them with hens and victuals.
From _Panuco_ to the great city of _Temistitan, Mexico_, is sixty
leagues; and other sixty from _Panuco_ to the port de _Vera Cruz_, where
they take shipping for _Spain_, and those that come from _Spain_ do land
to go for _Nueva Espana_. These three towns stand in a triangle: to wit,
_Vera Cruz_ to the south, _Panuco_ to the north, and _Mexico_ to the
west sixty leagues asunder. The country is so inhabited with Indians
that from town to town those which are farthest are but a league and
half a league asunder. Some of them that came from _Florida_ stayed a
month in _Panuco_ to rest themselves, others fifteen days, and every one
as long as he listed: for there was none that showed a sour countenance
to his guests, but rather gave them anything that they had, and seemed
to be grieved when they took their leave. Which was to be believed; for
the victuals which the Indians do pay them for tribute, are more than
they can spend: and in that town is no commerce; and there dwelt but few
Spaniards there, and they were glad of their company. The Alcalde Mayor
divided all the Emperor's clothes which he had (which there they pay him
for his tribute) among those that would come to receive them. Those
which had shirts of mail left were glad men; for they had a horse for
one shirt of mail. Some horsed themselves; and such as could not (which
were the greatest part) took their journey on foot: in which they were
well received of the Indians that were in the towns, and better served
than they could have been in their own houses, though they had been well
to live. For if they asked one hen of an Indian, they brought them four:
and if they asked any of the country fruit though it were a league off,
they ran presently for it. And if any Christian found himself evil at
ease, they carried him in a chair from one town to another. In
whatsoever town they came, the cacique, by an Indian which carried a rod
of justice in his hand, whom they call Tapile, that is to say a
sergeant, commanded them to provide victuals for them, and Indians to
bear burdens of such things as they had, and such as were needful to
carry them that were sick. The Viceroy sent a Portuguese twenty leagues
from _Mexico_, with great store of sugar, raisins of the sun, conserves,
and other things fit for sick folks, for such as had need of them: and
had given order to clothe them all at the Emperor's charge. And their
approach being known by the citizens of _Mexico_, they went out of the
town to receive them: and with great courtesy, requesting them in favor
to come to their houses, every one carried such as he met home with him,
and clothed them every one the best they could: so that he that had the
meanest apparel, it cost about thirty ducats. As many as were willing to
come to the Viceroy's house he commanded to be appareled, and such as
were persons of quality sate at his table: and there was a table in his
house for as many of the meaner sort as would come to it: and he was
presently informed who every one was, to show him the courtesy that he
deserved. Some of the conquerors did set both gentlemen and clowns at
their own table, and many times made the servant sit cheek by cheek by
his master: and chiefly the officers and men of base condition did so:
for those which had better education did inquire who every one was, and
made difference of persons: but all did what they could with a good
will: and every one told them whom they had in their houses, that they
should not trouble themselves, nor think themselves the worse, to take
that which they gave them: for they had been in the like case, and had
been relieved of others, and that this was the custom of that country.
God reward them all: and God grant that those which it pleased him to
deliver out of _Florida_, and to bring again into Christendom, may
serve him: and unto those that died in that country, and unto all that
believe in Him and confess his holy faith, God for his mercy's sake
grant the kingdom of heaven. Amen.
From the _Port de Spiritu Santo_, where they landed when they entered
into _Florida_, to the Province of Ocute, which may be 400 leagues,
little more or less, is a very plain country, and has many lakes and
thick woods, and in some places they are of wild pine-trees; and is a
weak soil. There is in it neither mountain nor hill. The country of
_Ocute_ is more fat and fruitful; it has thinner woods, and very goodly
meadows upon the rivers. From _Ocute_ to _Cutifachiqui_ may be 130
leagues: 80 leagues thereof are desert, and have many groves of wild
pine trees. Through the wilderness great rivers do pass. From
_Cutifachiqui_ to _Xuala_, may be 250 leagues: it is all an hilly
country. _Cutifachiqui_ and _Xuala_ stand both in plain ground, high,
and have goodly meadows on the rivers. From thence forward to _Chiaha_,
_Coca_, and _Talise_, is plain ground, dry and fat, and very plentiful
of maize. From _Xuala_ to _Tascaluca_ may be 250 leagues. From
_Tascaluca_ to _Rio Grande_, or the Great River, may be 300 leagues: the
country is low, and full of lakes. From _Rio Grande_ forward, the
country is higher and more champaign, and best peopled of all the land
of _Florida_. And along this river from _Aquixo_ to _Pacaha_, and
_Coligoa_, are 150 leagues: the country is plain, and the woods thin,
and in some places champaign, very fruitful and pleasant. From _Coligoa_
to _Autiamque_ are 250 leagues of hilly country. From _Autiamque_ to
_Aguacay_, may be 230 leagues of plain ground. From _Aguacay_ to the
river of _Daycao_ 120 leagues, all hilly country.
From the _Port de Spiritu Santo_ unto _Apalache_, they traveled from
east to west, and north-west. From _Cutifachiqui_ to _Xuala_ from south
to north. From _Xuala_ to _Coca_ from east to west. From _Coca_ to
_Tascaluca_, and to _Rio Grande_, as far as the provinces of _Quizquiz_
and _Aquixo_, from east to west. From _Aquixo_ to _Pacaha_ to the north.
From _Pacaha_ to _Tulla_ from east to west: from _Tulla_ to _Autiamque_
from north to south, to the province of _Guachoya_ and _Daycao_.
The bread which they ate in all the land of _Florida_ is of maize, which
is like coarse millet. And this maize is common in all the islands, and
from the Antilles forward. There are also in _Florida_ great store of
walnuts, plums, mulberries, and grapes. They sow and gather their maize
every one their several crop. The fruits are common to all, for they
grow abroad in the open fields in great abundance, without any need of
planting or dressing. Where there be mountains, there be chestnuts; they
are somewhat smaller than the chestnuts of _Spain_. From _Rio Grande_
westward, the walnuts differ from those that grow more eastward; for
they are soft, and like unto acorns; and those which grow from _Rio
Grande_ to _Puerto del Spiritu Santo_ for the most part are hard; and
the trees and walnuts in show like those of _Spain_. There is a fruit
through all the country which groweth on a plant like Ligoacan, which
the Indians do plant. The fruit is like unto Peares Riall; it has a very
good smell, and an excellent taste. There groweth another plant in the
open field, which beareth a fruit like unto strawberries, close to the
ground, which has a very good taste. The plums are of two kinds, red and
gray, of the making and bigness of nuts, and have three or four stones
in them. These are better than all the plums of _Spain_, and they make
far better prunes of them. In the grapes there is only want of dressing;
for though they be big, they have a great kernel. All other fruits are
very perfect, and less hurtful than those of _Spain_.
There are in _Florida_ many bears and lions, wolves, deer, dogs, cats,
martens, and conies. There be many wild hens as big as turkeys,
partridges small, like those of _Africa_, cranes, ducks, pigeons,
thrushes, and sparrows. There are certain black birds bigger than
sparrows, and lesser than stares. There are goshawks, falcons,
gerfalcons, and all fowls of prey that are in _Spain_.
The Indians are well proportioned. Those of the plain countries are
taller of body, and better shapen, than those of the mountains. Those of
the inland have greater store of maize, and commodities of the country,
than those that dwell upon the sea-coast. The country along the
sea-coast is barren and poor, and the people more warlike. The coast
runneth from _Puerto del Spiritu Santo_ to _Apalache_, east and west;
and from _Apalache_ to _Rio de las Palmas_ from east to west; from _Rio
de las Palmas_ unto _Nueva Espana_ from north to south. It is a gentle
coast, but it hath many shoals, and great shelves of sand.
_Deo gratias._
FOOTNOTES:
[A] Elvas is a city in Portugal.
[B] Cabeca de Vaca was the Governor of the River of Plate.
[C] The Cassavi root.
[D] Tampa Bay, on the west side of Florida.
[E] From Spirito Santo or Tampa Bay.
[F] Twelve days from St. Helena, and Coste seven days' journey from
Chiaha.
[G] Chisca is directly north from Cutifachiqui, which is within two days
of St. Helena.
[H] Rio Grande, or Rio de Espiritu Santo.
Corrections made to the text by the etext transcriber:
Timoco=>Tinoco
Vasconcellos=>Vasconcelos
northwest=>north-west