I.

Granite Point, Lake Superior, July 3, 1831.

_Esteemed Friend_,--While looking over the life of Dr. Payson, at your

house, I was pleased with a remark of his, in which he says "that a

formal letter to a friend, is like 'Madam, I hope I have the pleasure

to see you in good health,' addressed by a son to his mother, after a

year's absence." These may not be the exact words, but they convey the

sentiment. Had I the disposition to write to you such a letter, the

circumstances of my situation would most effectually preclude its

gratification.

One week has now elapsed since we were climbing the rugged sides of

the Iroquois mountain, and together gazing upon the peaceful lake

whose waters reposed in quietness at its base. During that week you

may well imagine that scenes have passed before me, as diverse and

varied in interest and excitement as the vicissitudes of human life.

We have glided over the limpid waters of the Superior, when its broad

surface lay stretched out before us with all the placidity of a

polished mirror, and anon our slender barks have been tossed like a

feather upon the rushing billows. We have rambled along the sandy

beach, or the gravelled shore, or bounded from rock to rock in search

of new objects of attraction. We have ascended the sliding sands of

the Grande Sable, viewed with admiration and awe the variegated walls

of the Pictured Rocks, passed under the Doric arches, and scaled its

summit, and last but not least, climbed a weary way up the mountain of

the Breast. But I shall not be thanked for filling up my sheet with

such general observations.

Very little of interest is to be found upon the coast from Point

Iroquois to the Grande Marais. Nothing but a continuous sandy beach

meets the eye, which at length becomes tedious in the extreme. At the

Grande Marais, however, the scene changes. Here the lofty mountains of

Sable commence, which in themselves are sufficient to occupy the mind

until new wonders are presented. Mr. Johnston and myself, accompanied

by two of the Indian lads, ascended them near the beginning of the

range. Upon arriving at the summit, the prospect was at once

impressive and sublime. Behind us was the Superior, bounded but by the

horizon,--before us a gigantic amphitheatre, whose walls on either

side rose into the magnitude of mountains. We descended into the area,

and it was one in which the Olympian combatants would have delighted

to wage their contests for a false and short-lived fame. It was early

when we embarked, and being invigorated by the night's repose, we felt

inclined, despite fatigue, to make a survey of all that might prove

interesting. Passing on, we found that the winds had disposed of the

sand alternately in hills and valleys. Nothing but an arid waste met

the eye, except when here and there a hardy plant had reared its head

above the yellow surface, or a little islet _oasis_ of green was

observed on a hillock's side, struggling with surrounding desolation.

Being informed that a small lake lay beyond the Grande Sable, we

immediately resolved upon paying it a visit. The distance we had to

traverse was about a mile; and as we wound our way along, I

involuntarily drew the comparison between the journey of life and our

morning's excursion. How true is it that the great portion of our

existence in this world, is filled up with events that but leave the

soul in bitterness, while at times some bright flower, some sunny spot

will appear, to which memory can recur with pleasure, and draw new

hopes for the future. How miserable the condition of those whose ideas

of happiness are bounded by present enjoyment; to them, futurity

appears a something gloomy and undefinable, the very thoughts of which

are unwelcome. But the Christian can look into a world beyond the

grave, and the vista, like the green forest around this miniature

Zahara, is pleasant to the sight. And even here, although his course

may be over a desert, yet every bud of promise, every opening flower,

serve but as a source of new excitement, and from them he gathers

strength to press his onward march amid the many thorns that beset his

path. But ere I had concluded moralizing,--upon gaining the top of a

sand hill, a scene opened to the view, of the most romantic beauty.

Unconsciously I stopped, lest I should too soon rush upon a prospect

of such quiet loveliness. We had passed over a desert whose only

attraction consisted in the novelty of its character and the majesty

of its outline, but the repetition of its barrenness began to pall

upon the sight, and oppress the mind with a sensation of weariness,

when instantly the entire scene was changed. Instead of sterile

heights, every thing bloomed in the vigor and freshness of vegetation.

The forest resounded with "the sweet notes of the summer birds," and

as the eye sought for the merry warblers, it caught a glimpse of the

blue water as its ripples sparkled in the morning sun. My hesitation

was but for a moment,--and bounding down the precipitous sand hills,

the isolated lake, that seemed to exult in its wild solitude, with its

richly diversified and picturesque enclosures, was spread before me.

O, it was a scene that the poet and the painter would love to dwell

upon. Cold must be the heart, ungrateful the affections of that being,

who, blessed with intelligence, can behold the fairest of Nature's

works, and not adore the God of Nature. My fancy might have been

highly wrought,--but it all appeared more like a pleasant dream that

fills the mind, when slumber steals over the senses as we are thinking

upon absent friends, and the haunts of happy hours.

The lake itself is about nine miles in circumference, and in general

form, as near as a comparison can be made, resembles a heart. The

shores are deeply indented and irregular, now projecting into the

water in small semi-circular promontories, and again retiring, as if

half afraid of the embraces of the limpid element. On the south and

west, as far as the eye can reach, the land rises into mountainous

elevations; on the north, stand the lofty sand banks, affording a fine

contrast with the fertility around, while on the east, it is bounded

by lower grounds, that in one instance descend to a beautiful grassy

lawn. The water appears to be very deep, and as we sent a shout over

its surface we were answered by a startled water fowl, that seldom,

very seldom, hears the sound of a human voice in its wild {169}

retreat. Every thing seemed to conspire to render this one of the most

enchanting spots in nature, and it was with regret that we turned to

regain our canoe.

Such is lake _Leelinau_; and while the breeze that moved over its

waters sent its waves to my feet, I thought of the friend after whom I

named it, and from my heart wished that her life might be as calm and

joyous as the bright prospect before me. By that name it _shall_ be

known; and if this faint description of the beauties it unfolds, will

serve to beguile a passing moment, a double object will have been

achieved.

As we hurried along on our return, George pointed out to me the fairy

tracks that occasionally are seen on these hills. They were, in fact,

exact representations of the print of the human foot, and about the

size of your Chinese lady's. But alas! how unpoetical! we were forced

to come to the conclusion that our fairy was nothing more than a

_porcupine_. Although the 30th of June, we stopped at a _snow bank_,

and after indulging for a moment in a winter's sport, filled one of

our Indian's hats with specimens for Mr. S. We travelled over nearly

four miles of these sandy mountains. Their summit, near the lake, is

covered with pebbles, among which I found several carnelians.

It was nearly _six_ o'clock when we descended to our canoes; and the

thought crossed my mind, that _probably_ our friends at St. Mary's

were beginning to shake the poppies from their eyes, and seriously

think of taking a peep at the sunny sky. At eight we landed to

breakfast, and need I tell you that _consumption_ presided at the

board--not the arch fiend with the bright though sunken eye, the

hectic cough, and the delicate but death-boding tint, but a

consumption that caused the solid viands before us to disappear with a

marvellous quickness.

But to ensure the perusal of any future production, I must tax your

patience no farther now. Suffice it to say that the farther I advance

the better am I pleased with the tour I have undertaken. Let the issue

be what it may, the commencement has introduced to me a friend, whom I

shall _never_ forget. May the blessing of the Christian's God attend

you.