_Our general takes a walk through Mexico, and views the Tlatelulco,
(the great square,) and the chief temple of Huitzilopochtli._
We had already been four days in the city of Mexico, and neither our
commander nor any of us had, during that time, left our quarters,
excepting to visit the gardens and buildings adjoining the palace.
Cortes now, therefore, determined to view the city, and visit the great
market, and the chief temple of Huitzilopochtli: he accordingly sent
Geronimo Aguilar, Dona Marina, and one of his pages named Orteguilla,
who, by this time, understood a little of the Mexican language, to
Motecusuma, to request his permission to view the different buildings of
the city. Motecusuma, in his answer to this, certainly granted us
permission to go where we pleased, yet he was apprehensive we might
commit some outrage to one or other of his idols: he, therefore,
resolved to accompany us himself, with some of his principal officers,
and, for this purpose, left his palace with a pompous retinue. Having
arrived at a spot about half way between his palace and a temple, he
stepped out of his sedan, as he would have deemed it a want of respect
towards his gods to approach them any otherwise than on foot. He leant
upon the arms of the principal officers of his court; others walked
before him, holding up on high two rods, having the appearance of
sceptres, which was a sign that the monarch was approaching. He himself,
whenever he was carried in his sedan, held a short staff in his hand,
one half of gold, the other of wood, very much like that used by our
judges. In this way he came up to the temple, which he ascended, in
company with many papas. On reaching the summit he immediately began to
perfume Huitzilopochtli, and to perform other ceremonies.
Our commander, attended by the greater part of our cavalry and foot, all
well armed, as, indeed, we were at all times, had proceeded to the
Tlatelulco: by command of Motecusuma, a number of caziques had come to
meet us on our road there. The moment we arrived in this immense market,
we were perfectly astonished at the vast numbers of people, the
profusion of merchandise which was there exposed for sale, and at the
good police and order that reigned throughout. The grandees who
accompanied us drew our attention to the smallest circumstance, and gave
us full explanation of all we saw. Every species of merchandise had a
separate spot for its sale. We first of all visited those divisions of
the market appropriated for the sale of gold and silver wares, of
jewels, of cloths interwoven with feathers, and of other manufactured
goods; besides slaves of both sexes. This slave market was upon as great
a scale as the Portuguese market for negro slaves at Guinea. To prevent
these from running away, they were fastened with halters about their
neck, though some were allowed to walk at large. Next to these came the
dealers in coarser wares--cotton, twisted thread, and cacao. In short,
every species of goods which New Spain produces were here to be found;
and everything put me in mind of my native town Medina del Campo during
fair time, where every merchandise has a separate street assigned for
its sale. In one place were sold the stuffs manufactured of nequen;
ropes, and sandals; in another place, the sweet maguey root, ready
cooked, and various other things made from this plant. In another
division of the market were exposed the skins of tigers, lions, jackals,
otters, red deer, wild cats, and of other beasts of prey, some of which
were tanned. In another place were sold beans and sage, with other herbs
and vegetables. A particular market was assigned for the merchants in
fowls, turkeys, ducks, rabbits, hares, deer, and dogs; also for
fruit-sellers, pastry-cooks, and tripe-sellers. Not far from these were
exposed all manner of earthenware, from the large earthen cauldron to
the smallest pitchers. Then came the dealers in honey and honey-cakes,
and other sweetmeats. Next to these, the timber-merchants,
furniture-dealers, with their stores of tables, benches, cradles, and
all sorts of wooden implements, all separately arranged. What can I
further add? If I am to note everything down, I must also mention human
excrements, which were exposed for sale in canoes lying in the canals
near this square, and is used for the tanning of leather; for, according
to the assurances of the Mexicans, it is impossible to tan well without
it. I can easily imagine that many of my readers will laugh at this;
however, what I have stated is a fact, and, as further proof of this, I
must acquaint the reader that along every road accommodations were built
of reeds, straw, or grass, by which those who made use of them were
hidden from the view of the passers-by, so that great care was taken
that none of the last-mentioned treasures should be lost. But why should
I so minutely detail every article exposed for sale in this great
market? If I had to enumerate everything singly, I should not so easily
get to the end. And yet I have not mentioned the paper, which in this
country is called amatl; the tubes filled with liquid amber and tobacco;
the various sweet-scented salves, and similar things; nor the various
seeds which were exposed for sale in the porticoes of this market, nor
the medicinal herbs.
In this market-place there were also courts of justice, to which three
judges and several constables were appointed, who inspected the goods
exposed for sale. I had almost forgotten to mention the salt, and those
who made the flint knives; also the fish, and a species of bread made of
a kind of mud or slime collected from the surface of this lake, and
eaten in that form, and has a similar taste to our cheese.[58] Further,
instruments of brass, copper, and tin; cups, and painted pitchers of
wood: indeed, I wish I had completed the enumeration of all this
profusion of merchandise. The variety was so great that it would occupy
more space than I can well spare to note them down in; besides which,
the market was so crowded with people, and the thronging so excessive in
the porticoes, that it was quite impossible to see all in one day.
On our proceeding to the great temple, and passing the courtyards
adjoining the market, we observed numbers of other merchants, who dealt
in gold dust as it is dug out of the mines, which was exposed to sale in
tubes made of the bones of large geese, which had been worked to such a
thin substance, and were so white that the gold shone through them. The
value of these tubes of gold was estimated according to their length and
thickness, and were taken in exchange, for instance, for so many
mantles, xiquipiles[59] of cacao[60] nuts, slaves, or other merchandise.
On quitting the market, we entered the spacious yards which surround the
chief temple. These appeared to encompass more ground than the
market-place at Salamanca, and were surrounded by a double wall,
constructed of stone and lime: these yards were paved with large white
flag-stones, extremely smooth; and where these were wanting, a kind of
brown plaster had been used instead, and all was kept so very clean that
there was not the smallest particle of dust or straw to be seen
anywhere.
Before we mounted the steps of the great temple, Motecusuma, who was
sacrificing on the top to his idols, sent six papas and two of his
principal officers to conduct Cortes up the steps. There were 114 steps
to the summit, and, as they feared that Cortes would experience the same
fatigue in mounting as Motecusuma had, they were going to assist him by
taking hold of his arms. Cortes, however, would not accept of their
proffered aid. When we had reached the summit of the temple, we walked
across a platform where many large stones were lying, on which those who
were doomed for sacrifice were stretched out. Near these stood a large
idol, in the shape of a dragon, surrounded by various other abominable
figures, with a quantity of fresh blood lying in front of it. Motecusuma
himself stepped out of a chapel, in which his cursed gods were
standing, accompanied by two papas, and received Cortes and the whole of
us very courteously. "Ascending this temple, Malinche," said he to our
commander, "must certainly have fatigued you!" Cortes, however, assured
him, through our interpreters, that it was not possible for anything to
tire us. Upon this the monarch took hold of his hand and invited him to
look down and view his vast metropolis, with the towns which were built
in the lake, and the other towns which surrounded the city. Motecusuma
also observed, that from this place we should have a better view of the
great market.
Indeed, this infernal temple, from its great height, commanded a view of
the whole surrounding neighbourhood. From this place we could likewise
see the three causeways which led into Mexico,--that from Iztapalapan,
by which we had entered the city four days ago; that from Tlacupa, along
which we took our flight eight months after, when we were beaten out of
the city by the new monarch Cuitlahuatzin; the third was that of
Tepeaquilla. We also observed the aqueduct which ran from Chapultepec,
and provided the whole town with sweet water. We could also distinctly
see the bridges across the openings, by which these causeways were
intersected, and through which the waters of the lake ebbed and flowed.
The lake itself was crowded with canoes, which were bringing provisions,
manufactures, and other merchandise to the city. From here we also
discovered that the only communication of the houses in this city, and
of all the other towns built in the lake, was by means of drawbridges or
canoes. In all these towns the beautiful white plastered temples rose
above the smaller ones, like so many towers and castles in our Spanish
towns, and this, it may be imagined, was a splendid sight.
After we had sufficiently gazed upon this magnificent picture, we again
turned our eyes toward the great market, and beheld the vast numbers of
buyers and sellers who thronged there. The bustle and noise occasioned
by this multitude of human beings was so great that it could be heard at
a distance of more than four miles. Some of our men, who had been at
Constantinople and Rome, and travelled through the whole of Italy, said
that they never had seen a market-place of such large dimensions,[61] or
which was so well regulated, or so crowded with people as this one at
Mexico.
On this occasion Cortes said to father Olmedo, who had accompanied us:
"I have just been thinking that we should take this opportunity, and
apply to Motecusuma for permission to build a church here."
To which father Olmedo replied, that it would, no doubt, be an excellent
thing if the monarch would grant this; but that it would be acting
overhasty to make a proposition of that nature to him now, whose consent
would not easily be gained at any time.
Cortes then turned to Motecusuma, and said to him, by means of our
interpretress, Dona Marina: "Your majesty is, indeed, a great monarch,
and you merit to be still greater! It has been a real delight to us to
view all your cities. I have now one favour to beg of you, that you
would allow us to see your gods and teules."
To which Motecusuma answered, that he must first consult his chief
papas, to whom he then addressed a few words. Upon this, we were led
into a kind of small tower, with one room, in which we saw two basements
resembling altars, decked with coverings of extreme beauty. On each of
these basements stood a gigantic, fat-looking figure, of which the one
on the right hand represented the god of war Huitzilopochtli. This idol
had a very broad face, with distorted and furious-looking eyes, and was
covered all over with jewels, gold, and pearls, which were stuck to it
by means of a species of paste, which, in this country, is prepared from
a certain root. Large serpents, likewise, covered with gold and precious
stones, wound round the body of this monster, which held in one hand a
bow, and in the other a bunch of arrows. Another small idol which stood
by its side, representing its page, carried this monster's short spear,
and its golden shield studded with precious stones. Around
Huitzilopochtli's neck were figures representing human faces and hearts
made of gold and silver, and decorated with blue stones. In front of him
stood several perfuming pans with copal, the incense of the country;
also the hearts of three Indians, who had that day been slaughtered,
were now consuming before him as a burnt-offering. Every wall of this
chapel and the whole floor had become almost black with human blood, and
the stench was abominable.
On the left hand stood another figure of the same size as
Huitzilopochtli. Its face was very much like that of a bear, its shining
eyes were made of tetzcat, the looking-glass of the country. This idol,
like its brother Huitzilopochtli, was completely covered with precious
stones, and was called _Tetzcatlipuca_. This was the god of hell, and
the souls of the dead Mexicans stood under him.[62] A circle of figures
wound round its body, resembling diminutive devils with serpents' tails.
The walls and floor around this idol were also besmeared with blood, and
the stench was worse than in a Spanish slaughter-house. Five human
hearts had that day been sacrificed to him. On the very top of this
temple stood another chapel, the woodwork of which was uncommonly well
finished, and richly carved. In this chapel there was also another idol,
half man and half lizard, completely covered with precious stones; half
of this figure was hidden from view. We were told that the hidden half
was covered with the seeds of every plant of this earth, for this was
the god of the seeds and fruits: I have, however, forgotten its name,
but note that here also everything was besmeared with blood, and the
stench so offensive that we could not have staid there much longer. In
this place was kept a drum of enormous dimensions, the tone of which,
when struck, was so deep and melancholy that it has very justly been
denominated the drum of hell. The drum-skin was made out of that of an
enormous serpent; its sound could be heard at a distance of more than
eight miles. This platform was altogether covered with a variety of
hellish objects,--large and small trumpets, huge slaughtering knives,
and burnt hearts of Indians who had been sacrificed: everything clotted
with coagulated blood, cursed to the sight, and creating horror in the
mind. Besides all this, the stench was everywhere so abominable that we
scarcely knew how soon to get away from this spot of horrors. Our
commander here said, smilingly, to Motecusuma: "I cannot imagine that
such a powerful and wise monarch as you are, should not have yourself
discovered by this time that these idols are not divinities, but evil
spirits, called devils. In order that you may be convinced of this, and
that your papas may satisfy themselves of this truth, allow me to erect
a cross on the summit of this temple; and, in the chapel, where stand
your Huitzilopochtli and Tetzcatlipuca, give us a small space that I may
place there the image of the holy Virgin; then you will see what terror
will seize these idols by which you have been so long deluded."[63]
Motecusuma knew what the image of the Virgin Mary was, yet he was very
much displeased with Cortes' offer, and replied, in presence of two
papas, whose anger was not less conspicuous, "Malinche, could I have
conjectured that you would have used such reviling language as you have
just done, I would certainly not have shown you my gods. In our eyes
these are good divinities: they preserve our lives, give us nourishment,
water, and good harvests, healthy and growing weather, and victory
whenever we pray to them for it. Therefore we offer up our prayers to
them, and make them sacrifices. I earnestly beg of you not to say
another word to insult the profound veneration in which we hold these
gods."
As soon as Cortes heard these words and perceived the great excitement
under which they were pronounced, he said nothing in return, but merely
remarked to the monarch with a cheerful smile: "It is time for us both
to depart hence." To which Motecusuma answered, that he would not detain
him any longer, but he himself was now obliged to stay some time to
atone to his gods by prayer and sacrifice for having committed
_gratlatlacol_, by allowing us to ascend the great temple, and thereby
occasioning the affronts which we had offered them.
"If that is the case," returned Cortes, "I beg your pardon, great
monarch." Upon this we descended the 114 steps, which very much
distressed many of our soldiers, who were suffering from swellings in
their groins.[64] The following is all I can communicate with respect to
the size or circumference of this temple; but previously reckon upon the
reader's kind indulgence, if I should make any misstatement; for at the
time when all these things were going on, I was thinking of anything but
writing a book, but rather how best to fulfil my duty as a soldier, and
to act up to the commands of our general Cortes. However, if I remember
rightly, this temple occupied a space of ground on which we should erect
six of the largest buildings, as they are commonly found in our
country.[65] The whole building ran up in rather a pyramidical form, on
the summit of which was the small tower with the idols. From the middle
of the temple up to the platform there were five landings, after the
manner of barbacans, but without any breastworks. A perfect idea of the
form of this temple may be gained from the pictures which are in the
possession of several of the Conquistadores, (I have one myself,) which
every one must have seen by this time. The following is what I learnt
respecting the building of this temple. Every inhabitant had contributed
his mite of gold, silver, pearls and precious stones thereto. These
gifts were then buried in the foundations, and the ground sprinkled with
the blood of a number of prisoners of war, and strewed with the seeds of
every plant growing in the country. This was done in order that the gods
might grant the country conquest, riches, and abundant harvests. The
reader will here naturally ask the question: how we got to know that its
foundations were thus filled with gold, pearls, silver, precious stones,
seeds, and sprinkled with human blood, as this building had stood there
for the space of one thousand years? To this I answer, that subsequent
to the conquest of this large and strongly fortified city, we found it
to be a positive fact; for when new buildings were being erected on the
place where this temple stood, a great part of the space was fixed upon
for the new church dedicated to our patron Saint Santiago, and the
workmen, on digging up the old foundations to give more stability to
the new ones, found a quantity of gold, silver, pearls, chalchihuis
stones, and other valuable things. A similar discovery was made by a
citizen of Mexico, to whom also a portion of this space had been
allotted for building-ground, but the treasure was claimed for his
majesty; and parties went so far as to commence a lawsuit about it, I
cannot however now recollect how it terminated. Besides all this, the
accounts of the caziques and grandees of Mexico, and even of
Quauhtemoctzin himself, who was alive at that time, all correspond with
my statement. Lastly, it is also mentioned in the books and paintings
which contain the history of the country.[66]
With respect to the extensive and splendid courtyards belonging to this
temple I have said sufficient above. I cannot, however, pass by in
silence a kind of small tower standing in its immediate vicinity,
likewise containing idols. I should term it a temple of hell; for at one
of its doors stood an open-mouthed dragon armed with huge teeth,
resembling a dragon of the infernal regions, the devourer of souls.
There also stood near this same door other figures resembling devils and
serpents, and not far from this an altar encrusted with blood grown
black, and some that had recently been spilt. In a building adjoining
this we perceived a quantity of dishes and basins, of various shapes.
These were filled with water and served to cook the flesh in of the
unfortunate beings who had been sacrificed; which flesh was eaten by the
papas. Near to the altar were lying several daggers, and wooden blocks
similar to those used by our butchers for hacking meat on. At a pretty
good distance from this house of horrors were piles of wood, and a large
reservoir of water, which was filled and emptied at stated times, and
received its supply through pipes underground from the aqueduct of
Chapultepec. I could find no better name for this dwelling than the
house of satan!
I will now introduce my reader into another temple, in which the
grandees of Mexico were buried. The doors of which were of a different
form, and the idols were of a totally different nature, but the blood
and stench were the same.
Next to this temple was another in which human skulls and bones were
piled up, though both apart; their numbers were endless. This place had
also its appropriate idols; and in all these temples, we found priests
clad in long black mantles, with hoods shaped like those worn by the
Dominican friars and choristers; their ears were pierced and the hair of
their head was long and stuck together with coagulated blood. Lastly, I
have to mention another temple at no great distance from this place of
skulls, containing another species of idol, who were said to be the
protectors of the marriage rights of the men, to whom likewise those
abominable human sacrifices were made. Round about this large courtyard
stood a great number of small houses in which the papas dwelt, who were
appointed over the ceremonies of the idol-worship. Near to the chief
temple we also saw an exceedingly large basin or pond, filled with the
purest water, which was solely adapted for the worship of
Huitzilopochtli and Tetzcatlipuca, being also supplied by pipes
underground from the aqueduct of Chapultepec. There were also other
large buildings in this neighbourhood, after the manner of cloisters, in
which great numbers of the young women of Mexico lived secluded, like
nuns, until they were married. These had also two appropriate idols in
the shape of females, who protected the marriage rights of the women,
and to whom they prayed and sacrificed in order to obtain from them good
husbands.
Although this temple on the Tlatelulco, of which I have given such a
lengthened description, was the largest in Mexico, yet it was by no
means the only one; for there were numbers of other splendid temples in
this city, all of which I am unable to describe. I have to remark,
however, that the chief temple at Cholulla was higher than that of
Mexico, and was ascended by 120 steps: also the idol at Cholulla stood
in greater repute; for pilgrimages were made to it from all parts of New
Spain, to obtain forgiveness of sins. The architecture of this building
was also different, but with respect to the yards and double walls they
were alike. The temple of the town of Tetzcuco was also of considerable
height, being ascended by 117 steps, and had broad and beautiful
courtyards, equal to those of the two last mentioned, but differently
constructed. It seems indeed quite laughable that each province and
every town should have its own peculiar idols, which, however, never
interfered with each other, and the inhabitants severally sacrificed to
them.
Cortes, and the whole of us at last grew tired at the sight of so many
idols and implements used for these sacrifices, and we returned to our
quarters accompanied by a great number of chief personages and caziques,
whom Motecusuma had sent for that purpose.
[58] This slimy substance the Mexicans called tecuitlatl, or excrement
of stone. It was made into various shapes, and dried in the sun. (p.
237.)
[59] According to Torquemada, this word expressed the number 8000 of
anything, whether of cacao beans, troops, or other matters. (p. 237.)
[60] Cacao nuts should be cacao beans; they were used by the Mexicans as
small coin, and even to this day, according to Humboldt, they form the
smallest coin among the inhabitants of New Spain. (p. 237.)
[61] In the large work of Ramusio, entitled 'Raccolta delle Navigazioni
e Viaggi,' there is a very interesting account of the city of Mexico.
There we find that this market was about three times larger than the one
at Salamanca, and surrounded by porticos. Every five days was a great
market day, and from forty to fifty thousand people come to buy and sell
there. (p. 238.)
[62] With regard to Mexican mythology, Bernal Diaz is, perhaps, not
quite so correct in general. The abbe F.S. Clavigero, who wrote a
history of Mexico, in two volumes quarto, is more intelligent in this
respect. (p. 239.)
[63] This note refers to the idol, half hidden from view, of which
Bernal Diaz has forgotten the name; it was probably the goddess
Centeotl, sometimes called Tonacajohua. (p. 240.)
[64] The Spanish is, "Estavan malos de bubas o humores, les dolieron los
muslas de baxar!" bubas I have everywhere translated by the general term
of swellings in the groin, though it is quite evident, from the 68th
letter of Petrus Martyr ab Angleria, (De Rebus Oceanicis el Novo orbe
decades tres) that this disease was the syphilis, which was then
spreading so dreadfully. (p. 241.)
[65] The best-informed writers agree with Bernal Diaz as to the vast
extent of this temple. It was so extensive, says Torquemada, that an
arrow shot from a crossbow would not reach the length of one of its
sides. A few lines lower he says, that each of these sides was three
hundred and sixty feet long! The wall which surrounded this huge temple
was entirely built of hewn stone. (p. 241.)
[66] Bernal Diaz is here speaking of the Mexican picture writing or
hieroglyphics. (p. 242.)