A few hours later a canoe was floating down the Branch through South

Devil. One man was paddling at the stern; another was stretched on a

couch, with his head on a pillow placed at the bow, where he could see

the blossoming network above through his closed eyes. As Carl had said,

Scipio had left a trail all the way--a broken branch, a bent reed, or a

shred of cloth tied to the lily-leaves. All through the still day they

glided on, the canoe moving without a sound on the bosom of the dark

stream. They passed under the gray and solemn cypresses, rising without

branches to an enormous height, their far foliage hidden by the moss,

which hung down thickly in long flakes, diffusing the sunshine and

making it silvery like mist; in the silver swung the air-plants, great

cream-colored disks, and wands of scarlet, crowded with little buds,

blossoms that looked like butterflies, and blossoms that looked like

humming-birds, and little dragon-heads with grinning faces. Then they

came to the region of the palms; these shot up, slender and graceful,

and leaned over the stream, the great aureum-ferns growing on their

trunks high in the air. Beneath was a firmer soil than in the domain of

the cypresses, and here grew a mat of little flowers, each less than a

quarter of an inch wide, close together, pink, blue, scarlet, yellow,

purple, but never white, producing a hue singularly rich, owing to the

absence of that colorless color which man ever mingles with his floral

combinations, and strangely makes sacred alike to the bridal and to

death. Great vines ran up the palms, knotted themselves, and came down

again, hand over hand, wreathed in little fresh leaves of exquisite

green. Birds with plumage of blush-rose pink flew slowly by; also some

with scarlet wings, and the jeweled paroquets. The great Savannah cranes

stood on the shore, and did not stir as the boat moved by. And, as the

spring was now in its prime, the alligators showed their horny heads

above water, and climbed awkwardly out on the bank; or else, swimming by

the side of the canoe, accompanied it long distances, no doubt moved by

dull curiosity concerning its means of locomotion, and its ideas as to

choice morsels of food. The air was absolutely still; no breeze reached

these blossoming aisles; each leaf hung motionless. The atmosphere was

hot, and heavy with perfumes. It was the heart of the swamp, a riot of

intoxicating, steaming, swarming, fragrant, beautiful, tropical life,

without man to make or mar it. All the world was once so, before man was

made.

Did Deal appreciate this beauty? He looked at it, because he could not

get over the feeling that Carl was looking at it too; but he did not

admire it. The old New England spirit was rising within him again at

last, after the crushing palsy of the polar ice, and the icy looks of a

certain blue-eyed woman.

He came out of the swamp an hour before sunset, and, landing, lifted his

brother in his arms, and started northward toward San Miguel. The little

city was near; but the weight of a dead body grown cold is strange and

mighty, and it was late evening before he entered the gate, carrying his

motionless burden. He crossed the little plaza, and went into the

ancient cathedral, laying it down on the chancel-step before the high

altar. It was the only place he could think of; and he was not repelled.

A hanging lamp of silver burned dimly; in a few moments kind hands came

to help him. And thus Carl, who never went to church in life, went there

in death, and, with tapers burning at his head and feet, rested all

night under the picture of the Madonna, with nuns keeping watch and

murmuring their gentle prayers beside him.

The next morning he was buried in the dry little burial-ground on the

knoll overlooking the blue Southern ocean.

When all was over, Deal, feeling strangely lonely, remembered his

promise, and turned toward the post-office. He expected nothing; it was

only one of the poor lad's fancies; still, he would keep his word. There

was nothing for him.

He went out. Then an impulse made him turn back and ask if there was a

letter for Carl. "For Carl Brenner," he said, and thought how strange it

was that there was now no Carl. There was a letter; he put it into his

pocket and left the town, going homeward by the King's Road on foot; the

South Devil should see _him_ no more. He slept part of the night by the

roadside, and reached home the next morning; everything was as he had

left it. He made a fire and boiled some coffee; then he set the little

house in order, loaded his gun, and went out mechanically after game.

The routine of daily life had begun again.

"It's a pleasant old place," he said to himself, as he went through one

of the orange-aisles and saw the wild oranges dotting the ground with

their golden color. "It's a pleasant old place," he repeated, as he

went out into the hot, still sunshine beyond. He filled his game-bag,

and sat down to rest a while before returning. Then for the first time

he remembered the letter, and drew it forth. This was the letter Carl

meant; Carl asked him to get it after he was dead; he must have

intended, then, that he, Mark, should read it. He opened it, and looked

at the small, slanting handwriting without recognizing it. Then from the

inside a photograph fell out, and he took it up; it was Leeza. On the

margin was written, "For Mark."

She had written; but, womanlike, not, as Carl expected, to Mark.

Instead, she had written to Carl, and commissioned _him_ to tell

Mark--what? Oh, a long story, such as girls tell, but with the point

that, after all, she "liked" (liked?) Mark best. Carl's letter had been

blunt, worded with unflattering frankness. Leeza was tired of her own

coquetries, lonely, and poor; she wrote her foolish little apologizing,

confessing letter with tears in her blue eyes--those blue eyes that

sober, reticent Mark Deal could not forget.

Carl had gone to San Miguel, then, to mail a letter--a letter which had

brought this answer! Mark, with his face in his hands, thanked God that

he had not spoken one harsh word to the boy for what had seemed

obstinate disobedience, but had tended him gently to the last.

Then he rose, stretched his arms, drew a long breath, and looked around.

Everything seemed altered. The sky was brassy, the air an oven. He

remembered the uplands where the oats grew, near Exton; and his white

sand-furrows seemed a ghastly mockery of fields. He went homeward and

drew water from his well to quench his burning thirst; it was tepid, and

he threw it away, recalling as he did so the spring under the cool,

brown rocks where he drank when a boy. A sudden repugnance came over him

when his eyes fell on the wild oranges lying on the ground, over-ripe

with rich, pulpy decay; he spurned them aside with his foot, and thought

of the firm apples in the old orchard, a fruit cool and reticent, a

little hard, too, not giving itself to the first comer. Then there came

over him the hue of Northern forests in spring, the late, reluctant

spring of Exton; and the changeless olive-green of the pine barrens grew

hideous in his eyes. But, most of all, there seized him a horror of the

swamp--a horror of its hot steaming air, and its intoxicating perfume,

which reached him faintly even where he stood; it seemed to him that if

he staid long within their reach his brain would be affected as Carl's

had been, and that he should wander within and die. For there would be

no one to rescue _him_.

So strong was this new feeling, like a giant full armed, that he started

that very night, carrying his gun and Carl's violin, and a knapsack of

clothes on his back, and leaving his other possessions behind. Their

value was not great, but they made a princely home for the mongrel, who

came over after he had departed, looked around stealthily, stole several

small articles, and hastened away; came back again after a day or two,

and stole a little more; and finally, finding the place deserted,

brought back all his spoil and established himself there permanently,

knowing full well that it would be long before Monteano's would find

another tenant from the North.

As Mark Deal passed across the King's Road Bridge over the Branch (now

soon to be sainted), he paused, and looked down into the north border of

South Devil. Then he laid aside his gun and the violin, went off that

way, and gathered a large bunch of swamp blossoms. Coming into San

Miguel, he passed through the town and out to the little burial-ground

beyond. Here he found the new-made grave, and laid the flowers upon it.

"He will like them because they come from _there_," was his thought.

Then, with a buoyant step, he started up the long, low, white peninsula,

set with its olive-woods in a sapphire sea; and his face was turned

northward.

IN THE COTTON COUNTRY.

The loveliest land that smiles beneath the sky,

The coast-land of our western Italy.

I view the waters quivering; quaff the breeze,

Whose briny raciness keeps an under taste

Of flavorous tropic sweets, perchance swept home

From Cuba's perfumed groves and garden spiceries.

PAUL HAMILTON HAYNE.

Call on thy children of the hill,

Wake swamp and river, coast and rill,

Rouse all thy strength, and all thy skill,

Carolina!

Tell how the patriot's soul was tried,

And what his dauntless breast defied;

How Rutledge ruled and Laurens died,

Carolina!

HENRY TIMROD.

Do you know the cotton country--the country of broad levels open to the

sun, where the ungainly, ragged bushes stand in long rows, bearing the

clothing of a nation on their backs? Not on their backs either, for the

white wool is scattered over the branches and twigs, looking, not as if

it grew there, but as if it had been blown that way, and had caught and

clung at random. When I first came to the cotton country, I used to

stand with my chin on the top-rail of the fences, trying to rid my eyes

of that first impression. I saw the fields only when the cotton was

white, when there were no green leaves left, and the fleecy down did not

seem to me a vegetable at all. Starved cows passed through the

half-plucked rows untempted, and I said to myself: "Of course. Cows do

not eat cotton any more than they eat wool; but what bush is there at

the North that they would not nibble if starving?" Accustomed to the

trim, soldierly ranks of the Western corn-fields, or the billowy grace

of the wheat, I could think of nothing save a parade of sturdy beggarmen

unwillingly drawn up in line, when I gazed upon the stubborn, uneven

branches, and generally lop-sided appearance of these plants--plants,

nevertheless, of wealth, usefulness, and historic importance in the

annals of our land. But after a while I grew accustomed to their

contrary ways, and I even began to like their defiant wildness, as a

contrast, perhaps, to the languorous sky above, the true sky of the

cotton country, with its soft heat, its hazy air, and its divine

twilight that lingers so long. I always walked abroad at sunset, and it

is in the sunset-light that I always see the fields now when far away.

No doubt there was plenty of busy, prosaic reality down there in the

mornings, but I never saw it; I only saw the beauty and the fancies that

come with the soft after-glow and the shadows of the night.

Down in the cotton country the sun shines steadily all day long, and the

earth is hot under your feet. There are few birds, but at nightfall the

crows begin to fly home in a long line, going down into the red west as

though they had important messages to deliver to some imprisoned

princess on the edge of the horizon. One day I followed the crows. I

said to myself: "The princess is a _ruse_; they probably light not far

from here, and I am going to find their place. The crows at home--that

would be something worth seeing." Turning from the path, I went

westward. "What!" said a country-woman, meeting Wordsworth on the road,

"are ye stepping westward, sir?" I, too, stepped westward.

Field after field I crossed; at last the fences ceased, and only old

half-filled ditches marked the boundary-lines. The land sloped downward

slightly, and after a while the ridge behind me seemed like a line of

heights, the old cotton-plants on its top standing out as distinctly as

single pine-trees on a mountain-summit outlined against the sky; so

comparative is height. The crows still flew westward as I came out upon

a second level lower down than the first, and caught a golden gleam

through the fringe of bushes in the middle of the plain. I had

unwittingly found the river at last, that broad, brown river that I knew

was down there somewhere, although I had not seen it with my bodily

eyes. I had full knowledge of what it was, though, farther south toward

the ocean; I knew the long trestles over the swamps and dark canebrakes

that stretched out for miles on each side of the actual stream--trestles

over which the trains passed cautiously every day, the Northern

passengers looking nervously down at the quaking, spongy surface below,

and prophesying accidents as certain some time--when they were not on

board. Up here in the cotton country, however, the river was more

docile; there were no tides to come up and destroy the banks, and with

the exception of freshets the habits of the stream were orderly. The

levels on each side might have been, should have been, rich with plenty.

Instead, they were uncultivated and desolate. Here and there a wild,

outlawed cotton-bush reared its head, and I could trace the old line of

the cart-road and cross-tracks; but the soil was spongy and

disintegrated, and for a long time evidently no care had been bestowed

upon it. I crossed over to the river, and found that the earth-bank

which had protected the field was broken down and washed away in many

places; the low trees and bushes on shore still held the straws and

driftwood that showed the last freshet's high-water mark.

The river made an irregular bend a short distance below, and I strolled

that way, walking now on the thick masses of lespedeza that carpeted the

old road-track, and now on the singularly porous soil of the level, a

soil which even my inexperienced eyes recognized as worthless, all its

good particles having been drained out of it and borne away on the

triumphant tide of the freshets. The crows still evaded me, crossing the

river in a straight line and flying on toward the west, and, in that

arbitrary way in which solitary pedestrians make compacts with

themselves, I said, "I will go to that tree at the exact turn of the

bend, and not one step farther." I went to that tree at the exact turn

of the bend, and then I went--farther; for I found there one solemn,

lonely old house. Now, if there had been two, I should not have gone on;

I should not have broken my compact. Two houses are sociable and

commonplace; but one all alone on a desolate waste like that inspired me

with--let us call it interest, and I went forward.

It was a lodge rather than a house; in its best day it could never have

been more than a very plain abode, and now, in its worst, it seemed to

have fallen into the hands of Giant Despair. "Forlorn" was written over

its lintels, and "without hope" along its low roof-edge. Raised high

above the ground, in the Southern fashion, on wooden supports, it seemed

even more unstable than usual to Northern eyes, because the

lattice-work, the valance, as it were, which generally conceals the

bare, stilt-like underpinning, was gone, and a thin calf and some

melancholy chickens were walking about underneath, as though the place

was an arbor. There was a little patch of garden, but no grass, no

flowers; everything was gray, the unpainted house, the sand of the

garden-beds, and the barren waste stretching away on all sides. At first

I thought the place was uninhabited, but as I drew nearer a thin smoke

from one of the chimneys told of life within, and I said to myself that

the life would be black-skinned life, of course. For I was quite

accustomed now to finding the families of the freedmen crowded into just

such old houses as this, hidden away in unexpected places; for the

freedmen hardly ever live up on the even ground in the broad sunshine as

though they had a right there, but down in the hollows or out into the

fringes of wood, where their low-roofed cabins, numerous though they may

be, are scarcely visible to the passer-by. There was no fence around

this house; it stood at large on the waste as though it belonged there.

Take away the fence from a house, and you take away its respectability;

it becomes at once an outlaw. I ascended the crazy, sunken steps that

led to the front door, and lifted the knocker that hung there as if in

mockery; who ever knocked there now save perhaps a river-god with his

wet fingers as he hurried by, mounted on the foaming freshet, to ravage

and lay waste again the poor, desolate fields? But no spirit came to the

door, neither came the swarm of funny little black faces I had expected;

instead, I saw before me a white woman, tall, thin, and gray-haired.

Silently she stood there, her great, dark eyes, still and sad, looking

at me as much as to say, "By what right are you here?"

"Excuse me, madam," was my involuntary beginning; then I somewhat

stupidly asked for a glass of water.

"I would not advise you to drink the water we have here; it is not

good," replied the woman. I knew it was not; the water is never good

down on the levels. But I was very stupid that day.

"I should like to rest a while," was my next attempt. It brought out a

wooden chair, but no cordiality. I tried everything I could think of in

the way of subjects for conversation, but elicited no replies beyond

monosyllables. I could not very well say, "Who are you, and how came you

here?" and yet that was exactly what I wanted to know. The woman's face

baffled me, and I do not like to be baffled. It was a face that was old

and at the same time young; it had deep lines, it was colorless, and the

heavy hair was gray; and still I felt that it was not old in years, but

that it was like the peaches we find sometimes on the ground, old,

wrinkled, and withered, yet showing here and there traces of that

evanescent bloom which comes before the ripeness. The eyes haunted me;

they haunt me now, the dry, still eyes of immovable, hopeless grief. I

thought, "Oh, if I could only help her!" but all I said was, "I fear I

am keeping you standing"; for that is the senseless way we human

creatures talk to each other.

Her answer was not encouraging.

"Yes," she replied, in her brief way, and said no more.

I felt myself obliged to go.

But the next afternoon I wandered that way again, and the next, and the

next. I used to wait impatiently for the hour when I could enter into

the presence of her great silence. How still she was! If she had wept,

if she had raved, if she had worked with nervous energy, or been

resolutely, doggedly idle, if she had seemed reckless, or callous, or

even pious; but no, she was none of these. Her old-young face was ever

the same, and she went about her few household tasks in a steady,

nerveless manner, as though she could go on doing them for countless

ages, and yet never with the least increase of energy. She swept the

room, for instance, every day, never thoroughly, but in a gentle,

incompetent sort of way peculiarly her own; yet she always swept it and

never neglected it, and she took as much time to do it as though the

task was to be performed with microscopic exactness.

She lived in her old house alone save for the presence of one child, a

boy of six or seven years--a quiet, grave-eyed little fellow, who played

all by himself hour after hour with two little wooden soldiers and an

empty spool. He seldom went out of the house; he did not seem to care

for the sunshine or the open air as other children care, but gravely

amused himself in-doors in his own quiet way. He did not make his wooden

soldiers talk or demolish each other triumphantly, according to the

manner of boys; but he marshaled them to and fro with slow

consideration, and the only sound was the click of their little muskets

as he moved them about. He seemed never to speak of his own accord; he

was strangely silent always. I used to wonder if the two ever talked

together playfully as mother and child should talk; and one day,

emboldened by a welcome, not warmer, for it was never warm, but not

quite so cold perhaps, I said:

"Your little son is very quiet, madam."

"He is not my son."

"Ah!" I replied, somewhat disconcerted. "He is a pretty child; what is

his name?"

"His name is John."

The child heard us in his barren corner, but did not look up or speak;

he made his two soldiers advance solemnly upon the spool in silence,

with a flank movement. I have called the corner barren, because it

seemed doubly so when the boy sat there. The poorest place generally

puts on something of a homelike air when a little child is in it; but

the two bare walls and angle of bare floor remained hopelessly empty and

desolate. The room was large, but there was nothing in it save the two

wooden chairs and a table; there was no womanly attempt at a rag-carpet,

curtains for the windows, or newspaper pictures for the walls--none of

those little contrivances for comfort with which women generally adorn

even the most miserable abiding-places, showing a kind of courage which

is often pathetic in its hopefulness. Here, however, there was nothing.

A back-room held a few dishes, some boxes and barrels, and showed on its

cavernous hearth the ashes of a recent fire. "I suppose they sleep in a

third bare room somewhere, with their two beds, no doubt, standing all

alone in the center of the chamber; for it would be too human, of

course, to put them up snugly against the wall, as anybody else would

do," I said to myself.

In time I succeeded in building up a sort of friendship with this

solitary woman of the waste, and in time she told me her story. Let me

tell it to you. I have written stories of imagination, but this is a

story of fact, and I want you to believe it. It is true, every word of

it, save the names given, and, when you read it, you whose eyes are now

upon these lines, stop and reflect that it is only one of many

life-stories like unto it. "War is cruelty," said our great general. It

is. It must be so. But shall we not, we women, like Sisters of Charity,

go over the field when the battle is done, bearing balm and wine and oil

for those who suffer?

"Down here in the cotton country we were rich once, madam; we were

richer than Northerners ever are, for we toiled not for our money,

neither took thought for it; it came and we spent it; that was all. My

father was Clayton Cotesworth, and our home was twenty miles from here,

at the Sand Hills. Our cotton-lands were down on these river-levels;

this was one of our fields, and this house was built for the overseer;

the negro-quarters that stood around it have been carried off piecemeal

by the freedmen." (Impossible to put on paper her accentuation of this

title.) "My father was an old man; he could not go to battle himself,

but he gave first his eldest son, my brother James. James went away from

earth at Fredericksburg. It was in the winter, and very cold. How often

have I thought of that passage, 'And pray ye that your flight be not in

the winter,' when picturing his sufferings before his spirit took

flight! Yes, it was very cold for our Southern boys; the river was full

of floating ice, and the raw wind swept over them as they tried to throw

up intrenchments on the heights. They had no spades, only pointed

sticks, and the ground was frozen hard. Their old uniforms, worn thin by

hard usage, hung in tatters, and many of them had no shoes; the skin of

their poor feet shone blue, or glistening white, like a dead man's skin,

through the coverings of rags they made for themselves as best they

could. They say it was a pitiful sight to see the poor fellows sitting

down in the mornings, trying to adjust these rag-wrappings so that they

would stay in place, and fastening them elaborately with their carefully

saved bits of string. He was an honored man who invented a new way. My

brother was one of the shoe-less; at the last, too, it seems that he had

no blanket, only a thin counterpane. When night came, hungry and tired

as he was, he could only wrap himself in that and lie down on the cold

ground to wait for morning. When we heard all this afterward, we said,

'Blessed be the bullet that put him out of his misery!' for poor James

was a delicate boy, and had been accustomed to loving, watchful care all

his life. Yet, oh, if I could only know that he was warm once, just

once, before he died! They told us he said nothing after he was shot

save 'How cold! How cold!' They put his poor, stiff body hastily down

under the sod, and then the brigade moved on; 'no man knoweth his

sepulchre unto this day.'

Rodman the Keeper: Southern Sketches · 第 13 / 25 段