Handling and Grading Muskrat Fur.
Thousands of dollars are annually lost to trappers on account of the
improper handling of raw fur. This is due to both ignorance and
carelessness on the part of a certain class of trappers. If these
amateurs would pay a little more attention to the proper way of
killing and skinning the animals, and the proper fleshing, stretching
and drying of the skins, they would realize from 5 to 10 per cent
more on their furs.
When animals are found alive in traps they may be dispatched by a few
sharp blows on the head with a stick, which should be smooth and free
from knots and stubs, otherwise the fur is liable to be damaged. An
animal when caught will often retreat under the banks or between root
snags, and then there is always danger of the catch escaping by its
violent struggles when the trapper attempts to dislodge it from its
retreat. A .22 caliber pistol will prove very handy for just such
emergencies; a bullet between the eyes from such a weapon will subdue
the animal, whereupon it can be safely hauled out. There is no danger
of decreasing the value of the fur when using such a small firearm.
Trapped muskrats are sometimes attacked, killed and torn to shreds by
mink or owl, as these nocturnal prowlers are very fond of the flesh
of these animals. When traps are not promptly looked after early in
the day, magpies and crows will often stage a mass attack and peck
and harass the poor victims to death. Such catches are a total loss
to the trapper, who is in most part to blame, because of his
carelessness in attending traps and his failure to arrange the sets
so the entrapped animals may drown and be thus concealed from view.
Before skinning an animal, examine the carcass and make sure that the
fur is clean and free from foreign matter. When an animal is
bespattered with dried mud, proceed to remove the same by thoroughly
brushing the fur; fresh mud and blood stains can be removed by
rubbing and rinsing the carcass in cold water. Burs and other foreign
matter should also be combed and brushed out. When this has been
accomplished, we are ready to skin the animal.
There are two methods employed in skinning the various fur-bearers,
namely, "open" and "cased." The former method is used on the larger
animals, such as bear, wolverine, mountain lion, etc. The latter
method is used on the smaller animals, which include our friend the
muskrat. The blade of the skinning knife should possess a very keen
edge at all times, so that there will be no ragged edges on the
pelts. It is much easier and more agreeable to skin an animal right
after it is killed, while the body heat is still retained. Never
allow an animal to lay unskinned for more than twenty-four hours, as
it is liable to taint, which has a tendency to cause the fur to slip.
Such pelts would have little or no value.
To skin the muskrat, cut the skin loose around the hind legs near the
feet where the fur ends, then rip down the back of the hind legs to
the root of the tail and loosen the fur around the same. Do not skin
the tail of the muskrat, as this has no fur value. Now lay the knife
aside and peel the skin with your fingers by drawing it down towards
the head. You will find that it will peel very readily, with a little
flesh here and there threatening to adhere to the skin; most of this
can be held back by pushing the fingers of one hand against it, while
pulling the skin with the other. To loosen the skin at the front
legs, work the thumb of your right hand between the skin and the
flesh on the underside of the main joint of the leg, and pull; the
skin will come off very easily. The knife comes into play again when
the ears are reached. These must be cut off at the base, close to the
head. When cutting the skin loose around the eyes, care must be
exercised to avoid dilating the apertures. Now peel down to the nose
and jaws, and with the knife assist in peeling the skin from these
members. The job of skinning is now complete and we have what is
termed a cased pelt with the fur side in.
It is a deplorable fact that a large percentage of trappers do not
use the knife when removing the skin from the head of the muskrat.
They simply pull it off by sheer force, with the result that the skin
generally tears off right back of the ears, which leaves a badly
damaged pelt. Such pelts when marketed are thrown into the lower
grades and sell for about 40 per cent less.
When the pelt is ready for fleshing, it is placed on the fleshing
board. This board should be made of one-half-inch material about
thirty inches long, four and one-half inches wide at the base and
three and one-half inches wide at the shoulders. The upper end of the
board should taper to a rounded point. The edges should be rounded
and sandpapered, so there may be nothing to injure the fur. A mink
fur stretcher makes an ideal fleshing board for muskrats, because it
is just about the size and shape required.
Place the skin on the board fur side in, and with a dull knife
proceed to remove all loose fat and flesh. An old table knife is a
very handy tool for this purpose. When using a jackknife, care must
be taken not to score or tear the pelt. The skin should be held taut
with the left hand, while manipulating the knife with the right.
Scrape by working from the head towards the base, or vice versa,
being careful not to scrape the muscles behind the shoulders too
close, because the ends of these are firmly attached to the skin.
When all superfluous fat and flesh have been removed, the pelt is
ready for the stretcher.
[Illustration: Fig. 3]
There are various makes of steel and wire fur stretchers on the
market, which can be purchased at a reasonable figure; but for the
accommodation of muskrat pelts, I know of none better or cheaper than
the common plain board stretchers which are made of dry goods boxes
or similar material. These boards should be made of one-quarter-inch
material, about thirty inches in length, six inches wide at the base
and five and one-half inches wide at the shoulders. From the
shoulders to the tip of the nose they should rapidly taper, coming to
a point. This point should be rounded so as to fit the head snugly
(See Fig. 3). The edges of the board should be nicely rounded and
smoothly sandpapered. When boards are made of one-half-inch material,
they should be beveled down to one-eighth of an inch at the edges. A
quarter-inch hole should be drilled in each board near the base, so
the pelts may be hung up when drying.
It will be remembered, as stated elsewhere in this work, that
muskrats vary greatly in size in various parts of the country. This
fact makes it impractical to quote exact dimensions for stretchers.
The above dimensions are an approximate average for standard skins
and are given to serve as an illustration for the guidance of the
novice.
When stretching the fur, draw the pelts on to the stretcher, fur side
in, in such a manner that the back squarely covers one side of the
board (as illustrated), while the underside covers the other. Never
stretch a pelt so carelessly that parts of both the back and
underside appear on each side of the board. Draw the skin down firmly
and fasten to the board by driving tacks all around the base. A tack
should also be driven into the tip of nose and lower jaw to hold them
in place.
The pelts should be hung up to cure in a cool, airy place; dampness
causes mildew, which ruins them. Never dry furs in the sun or too
near a fire, as this is liable to cause considerable damage. Never
use salt or any other chemicals in curing pelts; allow them to dry by
the natural process of evaporation. Be sure that they are held secure
against mice and other pests.
* * *
Large quantities of the cheaper fur are made up and sold under
fictitious names by the manufacturing furriers, such as "Hudson seal,
river mink, coney, nutria," and others too numerous to mention.
Hudson seal is the fur of muskrat, which is sheared, plucked, dyed
and beautifully blended to imitate the fur seal. River mink is also
the fur of muskrat prepared and dyed to a rich, deep brown to imitate
the more valuable mink. Coney is a species of European rabbit,
somewhat resembling our native cottontail, but the pelt of the former
is firm and tough, which renders it fit for manufacturing purposes.
Nutria is the commercial term for the fur of the South American
coypou. These fancy names have been adopted, no doubt, so that the
goods may sell better. For instance, that beautiful new "black sable"
cloak, which is so soft and silky, and which Mrs. Brown is showing
with so much pride to her neighbor Mrs. Smith, is in reality nothing
more than the unadulterated fur of that despised animal, the skunk.
Nevertheless, with the exception of the rare black fox, the skunk
supplies the most beautiful and most durable natural black fur of
North America. In the making up of this article, the white stripes in
the fur are eliminated, as this is hair and not fur, as some people
erroneously believe.
Select specimens of the cheaper fur, such as muskrat, opossum, etc.,
are prepared by skilled furriers to imitate the finer and more
valuable furs; and when these craftsmen are through with their
process of fixing, it would require the skill of an expert to
distinguish the finished product from the genuine article which it
imitates.
Though the manufacturing end of the business is of little interest to
the trapper and small dealer in raw furs, I merely record the above
statements to give the average reader an idea of how a large
percentage of furs are skillfully camouflaged to improve their
appearance and thus promote their sale.
In the following lines I shall endeavor to delineate, in an abridged
form, the fundamentals and principles of "fur grading"; this, for the
guidance of the reader, who, I shall presume, knows nothing about the
art of grading and assorting raw furs. Be it remembered that in this,
like in any other art or craft, the past master of that art or craft
has from long experience acquired, unconsciously or otherwise, a
certain "knack," the absence of which forms the main obstacle in the
path of the novice. This fact again calls to mind the truth of that
age old maxim, "Experience is the best teacher." What I am about to
set forth here on the subject is done with the view in mind of
assisting the amateur muskrat trapper (in whose interest this is
written) to know and determine the value of his fur, which will
enable him to realize more money on his catch and to find a better
market for his goods. In my own days of adolescence as an amateur
mink and muskrat trapper, it has been my privilege to handle and
examine the pelts of hundreds of muskrats. This study and experience,
alone, have been invaluable to me in buying and selling raw furs.
PELT: The inspection of the pelt or flesh side of a piece of fur is
generally the first thing the fur buyer does, for the reason that the
furs of most of the different animals are stretched and shipped to
market pelt side out. The degree of primeness of any piece of fur is
largely determined by the appearance of the pelt. To pass as No. 1, a
pelt must possess a white, pink or flesh color. When blue spots are
apparent on the pelts, they are termed blue-pelts or unprime. The
value of these depends on the amount of blue showing on the pelts.
When a pelt is possessed of but a few streaks or spots of blue, it is
termed good unprime and goes into grade No. 2. The No. 3, or poor
unprime, are those where the degree of primeness covers 40 per cent
or more of the pelt. Any peltries below this plane of primeness are
of little or no value.
With the exception of the muskrat and one or two others, the pelts of
fur bearers are generally strictly prime during the latter part of
November and the months of December, January and February, though
occasionally an animal is caught during the latter part of November
or early December whose pelt is not strictly prime, but these are
exceptions. From this it can be readily seen that the appearance of
blue-pelts in a trapper's collection of furs is due to early and late
trapping. This trapping out of season should not be encouraged, and
is now illegal in most states.
A pelt which has been damaged while killing or skinning its wearer,
or in the process of fleshing, stretching and curing, cannot be
classed as No. 1, though the pelt may be prime and the fur of good
quality. Such pelts are classed as No. 2's, 3's, and trash, all
depending on the amount of damage done. A pelt which has tainted or
heated on account of flesh adhering, is considered valueless when the
damage thus incurred loosens the fur and causes it to slip when
handled; such peltries are termed trash and are unfit for any
purpose. To avoid disaster, keep in mind the importance of properly
fleshing the pelts as soon as they are taken off the animals.
FUR: Though the condition of the pelt is an important factor in
determining the value of furs, the fur on fur side is of much more
importance, also more difficult to grade and assort intelligently.
The quality of the fur bespeaks the real value of the skin. The vital
points for consideration are: density, length, color, sheen and
superficial luster.
Blow into a piece of fur against the grain and you will notice two
distinct layers. These are defined as inner or under fur, and top or
guard hair. The former is the basis of the fur coat and on a No. 1
skin must exhibit a very dense growth. Pelts which possess a poor or
thin coat of under fur are graded down. The guard hair forms the
outer layer of the fur coat and must be sparse in density, but
uniform throughout the pelt. The various shades of color and silky
glossiness of these guard hairs harmonizing with the under fur is
what gives the fur its natural beauty. Many a piece of fur will
appear to be in first-class condition, but close scrutiny will often
reveal the fact that guard hairs are missing in spots. This gives the
fur a rugged or shaggy appearance. Furs possessing such defects
cannot be made up in their natural state, but must be either sheared
or plucked. On the grading sheet they are classified as "rubbed" and
are graded down accordingly. This loss of guard hair is due to
various reasons, principally the presence of parasites in the fur,
which causes the animal to rub against foreign objects.
White fur, such as that of the ermine or Arctic fox, is valued as to
the purity of its color. The pure or snow white pelts are the most
valuable. Other shades in this class are gray white, blue white and
yellowish to cream color. To command the highest market prices, it is
essential that white fur be free from all blood stains.
The policy of color is reversed in the assorting of the black, brown,
red and gray furs. Here the rule is, the darker the shades of the
various colors, the more valuable the fur.
The mere color and beauty of certain furs of the same species often
create a tremendous difference in the range of values. Let us, for
example, consider the pelts of two foxes: We will say they are both
large skins and perfectly prime, but one is a red, while the other is
a black fox. Though both of these foxes may be of the same
consanguinity, the pelt of the black would be worth about as many
hundreds as that of the red would be worth dollars. In the case of
the mink, otter, marten and other fine furs, a well furred pelt of
dark color is often worth two or three times as much as a pale
colored pelt of equal size and quality.
Towards spring many furs fade or grow pale in color, some are rubbed
and the fur appears woolly. These are graded down and termed singed
or "springy," and as a consequence are less valuable.
To receive full value for raw furs, the tails must also receive
proper attention. Where they are partly or wholly missing or have
been damaged beyond redemption, the furs are discounted. This amounts
to from ten to twenty-five per cent of the value of the pelt. All
tails should be split a portion of their length and the bone removed,
otherwise they are apt to spoil. The tails of muskrat, opossum and
beaver are left on the carcass, as they have no fur value.
SIZE: There are three sizes of pelts, namely, large, medium and
small; but dealers in raw furs find it necessary to quote a special
grade for the very small or undersize skins. These kitts, as they are
termed, are the skins of the young of late litters. They are not
mature in pelt and the fur is of poor quality, hence of little value.
A No. 1 large pelt is usually worth about twice as much as one of the
same quality in the small size. From this the reader may gather that
the large grade pelt must be twice the size of the small, but this is
erroneous. The fact is, that in most species of fur bearers the
variation in the large, medium and small size is but a difference of
two or three inches in the length of the pelt. Just why there is such
a radical difference in price is a mysterious prank of the fur trade,
for which no one person is responsible. On the other hand, a small
size pelt which is of good color and possesses a lustrous and dense
coat of fur, is often worth as much or more than a large pelt of poor
color. Remember that dimensions of the skin and primeness of pelt are
of little consideration when the fur lacks quality.
GRADING MUSKRATS: Muskrats, unlike most other furs, are not strictly
prime in pelt until early spring. For that reason they are assorted
under three headings, as follows: Fall, winter and spring. The pelt
of the fall muskrat displays very little primeness, but is endowed
with a fairly dense growth of fur, and therefore is in good demand.
The degree of primeness increases as the season advances, and when
fifty per cent or more of the pelt is prime they are quoted as
"Winter." When they are fully prime, which occurs during the latter
part of February or early March, they are termed "Spring 'rats" and
command the best prices.
Abnormally thin pelts are not uncommon among fur bearers, but this
defect is most frequently found on muskrats. Just what causes this
imperfection is not definitely known. The writer while trapping in
the prairie region of Dakota caught both river and marsh 'rats, and
discovered that the pelts of the latter were very thin, and when dry
rattled like paper when handled; the color of the fur was a pale,
rusty red and very dull compared with that of the pelts of the river
'rats in the same district. I believe the inferior quality of the fur
of these marsh 'rats is due to the excessive amount of alkali present
in the marshy waters of the Northwest. Papery peltries are discounted
from ten to twenty-five per cent, because the leather of such thin
pelted fur is delicate and not very lasting.
There is a larger percentage of kitts found in the average collection
of fall muskrat pelts than among any other kind of fur. These pelts
are poorly furred and very small compared with those of mature
animals, and are of little value.
In the spring muskrats fight a great deal, especially the males. As a
result, the pelts of these are often damaged considerably. It is not
an uncommon occurrence to find entrapped muskrats so badly chewed and
torn, by their own kind, that it does not pay to skin them.
In assorting muskrats, buyers usually pay more attention to size and
primeness of pelt than they do to the fur, because it is generally
conceded that the average run of 'rat fur is good. Nature endows the
muskrat with a dense coat of fur, which, in fact, is a necessity to
further its welfare in the icy waters in which it lives.
As before stated, 'rats, like most of the other fur bearers, vary
considerably in size in various parts of the country. For example the
pelt of a large Southwestern muskrat is no larger than that of an
Atlantic coast 'rat of the small grade. The districts which show a
marked difference in the value and size of 'rat pelts may be divided
into four groups, as follows: First, Eastern Canada, New England, New
York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois,
and West Virginia; second, Delaware, Kentucky, Maryland, Virginia,
Tennessee, and the Carolinas; third, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa,
Nebraska, and the Northwest; fourth, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas, to
the Pacific and Southern.
The pelts of the first district are of the best quality and therefore
command the best prices. Those of the second average about ten per
cent less per pelt, and those of the third and last district average
about twenty and thirty-five per cent less, respectively, than those
of the first named district.
END OF THE ACCOMPLISHED MUSKRAT TRAPPER