<g>Pembrokeshire</g>.
“Terra hæc triticea est marinis piscibus, vino que venali copiose
referta; et quod omnibus præstat, ex Hiberniæ confinio aëris
salubritate temperata.”--_Gyraldus._
[Illustration: T]<g>ENBY</g>, so justly celebrated in the present day as a
delightful watering-place, possesses in its traditions and antiquities
many features of deep interest to the archæologist; and although not
selected as a subject of special illustration in this work, it is fully
entitled to the admiration of the tourist--whether in search of health,
the gray landmarks of History, or studying the picturesque face of
Nature in one of her most delightful aspects. Part of its buildings
occupy the crest of an almost insulated tongue of land projecting into
the sea; others slope down gradually to the harbour at its foot; while
the extreme point of the promontory is crowned with the ruins of the
Castle. “Nothing,” to quote the words of a late sketch,[389] “can be
prettier than its little bay, encircled with rocks of romantic unusual
form, and beautiful warm rich colouring, in some places overhung with
wood, more crystalline than the emerald sea which washes their base, or
more white and firm than the rim of sand which encircles it. In addition
to these, the expanse of sea is everywhere magnificent. Nothing can
surpass the view from the highest part of the town, where it overlooks
the busy little Harbour--the Castle--the Bay, with Caldy Island; the
black Rocks of Giltar Point--the distant Mountains of
Carmarthenshire--and the Peninsula of Gower, with its conspicuous and
fantastic termination--the Worm’s Head Promontory.
“To these natural beauties must be added the mingling of old-world
relics with its modern buildings; traces of towers and fortifications,
antiquated back streets, and crumbling fragments of the Castle, hanging
over the verge of its sea-beaten rock. But a still greater
recommendation to ordinary visitors is the extreme purity and softness
of the air, the neatness and cleanliness of the streets, the quiet yet
cheerful look of the place, and the romantic coast-scenery of the
neighbourhood, with the ruins of castles and other buildings thickly
studded within the circuit of a few miles.” With all these before us, it
may well be questioned whether any other watering-place in the kingdom
can offer a combination of attractions equal to those of Tenby.
The town appears to have derived its earliest importance from its
fisheries;[390] and this, added to the many obvious advantages of its
site, at a time when the Anglo-Norman lords made their first successful
descent upon these shores, clearly pointed it out as a fit locality for
the establishment of a new colony, and the erection of a strong castle
for their protection. When the Flemish settlers--after being driven from
their own home by successive inundations--had this coast assigned to
them, the prosperity of Tenby became gradually accelerated and secured.
Under the example of that industrious people, who had brought with them
a more refined knowledge of commercial intercourse and its numerous
advantages, the harbour was improved, the population of the town were
soon engaged in an extensive woollen manufactory, which, with an
increase of inland and foreign traffic, gradually enriched and enlarged
the place. The commercial spirit of the inhabitants, by increasing the
wealth of the native lords, procured for Tenby the numerous privileges
and immunities which it received under successive governments; while the
Earls of Pembroke, much to their honour, were liberal and munificent in
the foundation and endowment of religious and charitable institutions.
<g>History.</g>--Among the historical facts in the records of Tenby, is the
escape of Richmond, afterwards Henry the Seventh, from this harbour, by
the connivance of Thomas White, the mayor. “Henry, who had been besieged
in Pembroke Castle, succeeded at last in passing the guard, and making
his way to the nearest harbour, where he meant to embark for the
continent.” Here he was received by the mayor, a wealthy wine merchant,
whose commercial intercourse with France gave him every facility for
serving the Prince in this necessitous position of his fortunes. He was
no sooner aware that young Richmond and his mother were in need of his
advice and aid, than he provided them with a temporary shelter from all
danger of their enemies; and as soon as a vessel could be got ready,
conducted them on board, and placing the royal fugitives under the care
of a skilful and trusty skipper, commended them to Heaven, and saw them
safely entered on their prosperous voyage to Brittany.
It is pleasing to add that, when the fortunes of Richmond had placed him
on the throne, the generous conduct of the worthy mayor of Tenby was
not forgotten. The royal favour was expressed by giving him a
life-grant of the King’s lands in and around Tenby, with all the
privileges thereto belonging; and thus making him, in his own person and
experience, a pleasing exception to the proverbial ingratitude of
princes.
The town was formerly--and so long as fortifications were
indispensable--a place of great strength. But of the massive walls and
gates, by which it was attached to the Castle as a citadel, the remains
present no features of paramount interest, except, perhaps, to the
plodding antiquary, whose eyes penetrate far below the surface, and
trace bastions and circumvallations where ordinary men see nothing but
the weeds that cover them.
<g>The Church</g> is a capacious edifice--not remarkable for its architecture,
but with a lofty spire which, like most others on the coast, serves as
an imposing landmark. Churches, dedicated to St. Nicholas, were
generally planted on some commanding eminence overlooking the sea; so
that a glimpse of the sacred landmark might inspire the bewildered
mariner with fresh courage to renew the struggle, or new light to direct
his course, when overtaken by storms or darkness.
The interior of the Church is enriched with an elaborately-carved
ceiling, and various sepulchral antiquities--some of which are curious
and interesting. But that to which the stranger will probably turn with
a partial eye, is the tomb of the worthy Mayor already named, containing
the effigies of John and <g>Thomas White</g> in the quaint costume of their
time, which it was the great merit of “old mortality” sculptors to
imitate, in strict subserviency to the tailor and embroiderer. Here
also--as in several other churches elsewhere--is the effigy of a human
figure in the last stage of emaciation; supposed to be that of a Bishop
of St. David’s, when bishops were known to fast as well as to pray.
Perhaps of him who, in the great dearth--mentioned in a former page of
this work--is said to have died of famine--a very improbable conjecture;
for these exhibitions of frail mortality were only intended as monitors
to the living, and to remind the thoughtless and idle spectators that to
“this they must expect to come at last.” On a flat tombstone in the
floor is an inscription which suggests revolting ideas of the barbarous
practices that once disgraced the “inhospitable” shores of our own land.
The words are, “Walter Vaughan, iv. Jan. 1637;” the name, as it is
conjectured, of the once notorious “wrecker of Dunraven:” a miscreant
who, by hanging out false lights in tempestuous weather, allured unhappy
merchantmen, and other vessels, to the rocks; and when the sea had
broken over them, and the crews were struggling in the arms of despair,
descended with his fellow-ruffians to the double exercise of murder and
plunder. Having amassed capital in this manner, he is supposed to have
selected this coast as an “elegant retirement,” where he could enjoy
the pleasures of society, without betraying the secret of his trade,
and take his place at last among those worthies who have enriched the
hallowed pile with their dust. We would gladly indulge the hope that
this story, though repeated as a fact, is to be regarded only in the
light of a fable; although every reader is aware that the wreckers of
Cornwall were not imaginary beings.
<g>The Carmelites</g>, whose rule was founded upon that of St. Basil, had a
house here, founded by John de Swynmore, of which the convent, or
college, dedicated to <g>St. Mary</g>, stood near the parish church. But the
ancient features of the town are fast passing away, and in a few years
hence--if the march of improvement continue to advance at the same
rate--many of the antiquities of Tenby will have become rather objects
of faith than of sight.
<g>Of the Castle</g>, the only portions now standing that indicate its former
strength are a bastion and a square tower. The rest of the structure
exhibits rather the air of a splendid mansion than of a military
fortress. On the north are the ruins of a large hall, about a hundred
feet in length by twenty in breadth--not the usual proportions; and near
the grand entrance gate is another apartment, eighty feet long by thirty
feet wide. Attached to these two apartments are several others of
smaller dimensions--used probably as offices, or barracks for the
garrison. The situation of this fortress was admirably adapted for
defence. It occupied the extreme point of the promontory; and on every
side--except that facing the town, which was strengthened by art--it was
secured by inaccessible rocks. The original founder of this stronghold
is supposed to have been one or other of those Anglo-Norman lords who,
in the manner already described, rendered themselves masters of the
country. In their wars with the native princes, this Castle became a
frequent object of attack; and in the year 1151, it was taken by
Meredydd and Rhys, sons of Gruffyd-ap-Rhys, who put the garrison to the
sword, in revenge for the shelter they had given to certain persons
charged with having attacked and wounded their brother Cadell, while
engaged in a hunting excursion in the neighbourhood. Again, in 1186, it
was invested by Maelgwn, son of Rhys-ap-Gruffyd, who, by bringing an
overwhelming force against it, took the fortress, and demolished the
works. But the history of this stronghold, like that of most others
built and garrisoned for the same purpose, is nothing more than a
catalogue of disasters, of siege and storm, capture and surrender; where
spectacles of blood were followed by scenes of barbaric splendour, and
he who conquered to-day was often to-morrow’s captive.
<g>Corporation.</g>--Tenby was incorporated about the time of Edward the Third,
by charters granted by the Earls of Pembroke, the provisions of which
were afterwards confirmed and extended by Richard the Third and his
successors. Previous to 1835, the government was vested in a mayor,
common council, and an indefinite number of burgesses--the mayor and
common council being the governing body; and the style of the
Corporation--“The Mayor, Bailiffs, and Burgesses of the Borough of
Tenby.”
Besides the ecclesiastical buildings already noticed, there are the Town
Hall, the Assembly Rooms, a Theatre, spacious baths, and various minor
edifices. All these combine to give an air of taste, comfort, and
prosperity to the borough; and present to the mind’s eye a pleasing
contrast to the crumbling monuments of feudal vassalage, that for
centuries held this flourishing little town in its iron grasp. The
harbour consists of two piers, which shoot into a corner of the bay, and
nearly encircle a small but safe spot for the anchorage of vessels. The
woollen trade, first introduced by the Flemish settlers, has been long
superseded. The imports are chiefly articles of domestic consumption;
and the exports consist of butter, corn, coal, and culm. During the
fishing season, Tenby is a station for the vessels belonging to Plymouth
and Broxham; and the oyster-beds constitute a source of considerable
profit to the fishermen. The prosperity of the place, however, depends
more upon its attractions as a watering-place, than upon any advantage
it possesses as a seaport; and in this respect, as already observed, it
takes unquestioned precedence over the majority of those fashionable
resorts which have so long flourished under the smile of popular favour.
<g>Flemings.</g>--The cause which immediately led to the Flemish settlement on
this coast is as follows:--An inundation[391] of great magnitude
happening in the Low Countries soon after the Conquest, a vast number of
Flemings, driven from their homes, betook themselves to their ships, and
landing in England implored an asylum. An increase of industrious
peaceable subjects was an object not to be overlooked by the Conqueror.
They were accordingly received with alacrity, and treated with cordial
hospitality. After a time these strangers were distributed over the
country, and wherever they settled contributed to the prosperity of the
district. “Many Flemings,” says Malmesbury, “came over to England on
account of relationship to the mother of Henry the First, by her
father’s side; insomuch that--like the Germans of the present day--they
were burthensome to the kingdom.” “Farther,” says the old historian,
“William Rufus had generally ill fortune against the Welsh, which one
may well wonder at, seeing that all his attempts elsewhere were crowned
with success. But I am of opinion that the unevenness of their country,
and the severity of the weather, favoured their rebellion; so it
hindered their progress. But King Henry found out an act to frustrate
all their inventions, by planting Flemings in their country to curb and
continually harass them. King Henry often endeavoured to reduce the
Welsh, who were always prone to rebellion. At last, very advisedly, in
order to abate their pride, he transplanted thither all the Flemings
that lived in England. Wherefore, because their numbers created
uneasiness, and were burthensome to the kingdom, he thrust them all into
<g>Ros</g>, a province of Wales, as unto a common shore, as well to rid the
kingdom of them, as to curb the obstinacy of his enemies.”
To the multitude of Flemings thus disposed of, Henry the Second added,
by banishing out of England all the Flemish soldiers who had taken
service under King Stephen, and granting them permission to join their
compatriots in Pembrokeshire. But although historians in general confine
the influx of Flemish settlers to the lower part of Pembrokeshire, it is
certain that they extended over a much wider district, namely, the whole
sea-coast bounding the counties of Pembroke, Carmarthen, Cardigan, and
Glamorgan. Of the Flemish colony who settled in Cardiganshire, there are
unequivocal proofs in our own times; for their posterity, who continue
to inhabit the tract assigned to their ancestors, differ materially from
the aboriginal Welsh, not only in the peculiarities of speech, but in
those physical distinctions which mark the different races of mankind.
“There is a farm called Nant-y-Flyman,” says Mr. Thomas,[392] “in the
parish of Verwick, two miles north of Cardigan, which is said to derive
its name from the landing of this colony at Traeth-y-Mwnt, a small creek
hard by. The reception they met with on disembarking, was from the
swords of armed natives; and in the carnage that ensued, fell many of
the best and bravest on both sides. In commemoration of this disastrous
rencounter, several heaps of sand adjoining <g>Mount Church</g> point out to
this day the cromlechs of the slain, and are traditionally called “the
graves of the Flemings--Beddau’r Fflemings--where bones of gigantic size
often make their appearance.”
In the Welsh Chronicle, we read that the Normans and Flemings inhabited
the county of Carmarthen, about Llanstephan--the castle of which we
shall presently notice; and under the conduct of Girald and William de
Hay invested the said castle. That they extended likewise coastwise to
Glamorganshire, is evident from the Gower Whittle--a provincial article
of dress peculiar to the Flemings, and from them adopted by the Welsh in
general. The south-west portion of Gower, according to Mr. Collins, is
inhabited by the descendants of a colony of Flemings, who do not talk
the Welsh language, and are distinguished by their own peculiar dress.
They seldom intermarry with their neighbours on the north-west side of
the Gower. Mr. Pye supposes that the Flemings in Wales still speak the
language of Flanders; and relates that a servant, inquiring the road,
“could not understand the language of some cottagers, nor make them to
understand him, though a Welshman; and he was certain they did not speak
Welsh. After much altercation, and inquiry at an alehouse, all
ineffectually, a clergyman solves their doubts by relating that some
Flemish families had settled in that part of South Wales, and have
retained their language to this day.” Here, however, Mr. Pye must have
been misinformed; for they all speak--that is, the lower class--a horrid
provincial dialect of the English language, though not much worse than
certain counties of England, retaining many Saxon words now obsolete,
and unintelligible to any but an antiquary. Camden says, “They speak a
language so agreeable with the English (which indeed has much affinity
with the Dutch), that this small country of theirs is called by the
Britons--‘Little England below Wales.’” “But here Mr. Pye is to be
regarded as a novelist,” says Thomas;[393] “for his account is not
historically true.”
The policy of King Henry in settling these Flemings in Wales, for the
purposes of conquest, security, and strength, was very judicious. Being
a very warlike people--Belgæ--inevitably attached to their benefactors
the English kings, they were always ready to join their standard, or to
make a diversion in their favour against the Welsh. But such frontier
military posts as surrounded the Welsh--such a cordon of warlike
foreigners settled on their coasts--became a source of much evil to the
natives; and altogether inadequate for the purpose which their
introduction was intended to serve; namely, “to secure the fidelity of
the Welsh nation”--whom, on the contrary, their harsh usage and
oppression only contributed to alienate from the English crown, until
their antipathy and resentment found vent in the open insurrection of
Owen Glendower.
The colony is thus described by Giraldus:--“Gens hæc fortis et robusta;
continuoque belli conflictu gens Cambrensibus inimicissima, gens
lanificiis, gens mercimoniis usitatissima, quocumque labore sive
periculo, terra marique lucrum quærere. Gens prævalida vicissim loco et
tempore, nunc ad arma, nunc ad aratra gens promptissima.”
[Illustration: _Manorbeer Castle._