the capricious nature of the climate of Tinterne, where the transitions
from a winter to a high summer temperature, and _vice versa_, are so
frequent and remarkable.
<g>Incidental Remarks.</g>--During the plunder of this abbey church, which was
long carried on with impunity, many interesting relics of antiquity
appear to have been either mutilated, or carried off and sold. Among
other fragments of ancient art, was a brass hand grasping a spear, taken
from a tomb in the church in which was found a body entire, with
leathern buskins, and buttons on the coat; but which, on exposure to the
air, crumbled into dust. Human skeletons, we are told, were found in an
orchard to the eastward, formerly the abbey cemetery. From the size of
these--monks or soldiers--it was ascertained that their living owners
must have been considerably beyond the common stature. On the legs of
one of them were found cloth buskins in apparent preservation; while the
metal studs, or buttons, it is added, were almost bright. No coffins
were found; the bodies were simply deposited under large flat stones;
and were probably of an order inferior to those interred within the
church. Adjoining the north door, a portion of wall, long supposed to be
the side of a cloister, was at last stripped of the ivy that covered it,
and disclosed a range of fine Gothic windows.[177] And when the rubbish
that encumbered the entrance leading into the cross aisle was removed,
two stones were found inscribed with the following memorials:--
<g>Hic jacet Johannes de Lynas.
Hic jacet Henricus de Lancaut.</g>[178]
At the entrance by the west doorway a flight of steps was also
discovered, which at the time was supposed to communicate with a vault,
or crypt, under the church. But the passage was not explored; and the
stone with which the opening was originally covered, was restored to its
place. It is the opinion of antiquaries, however, that there is no
crypt, or vault, under the church. Of
<g>Tinterne village</g>, which still seems to derive its support from casual
visitors to the abbey, much cannot be said in commendation. Little, if
any improvement seems to have been made for many years, owing, we were
told, to the restrictions laid upon building. With encouragement in this
respect alone--or even with the ordinary accommodations of a spacious
inn[179]--the place might speedily change its complexion, and become a
cheerful and thriving hamlet. But, as in the days of Gilpin, it presents
nothing inviting. The penury of the inhabitants may be less remarkable;
“but they still occupy little huts raised among the ruins of the
monastery, and seem as if a place, once devoted to indolence, could
never again become the seat of industry.” “As we left the abbey,” says
he, “we found the whole hamlet at the gate, either openly soliciting
alms, or covertly, under pretence of carrying us to some part of the
ruins which each could show, and which was far superior to anything
which could be shown by any one else. The most lucrative occasion could
hardly have excited more jealousy and contention.” In the present day,
the duties of the abbey _cicerone_ are performed by a sensible and
well-informed guide, named Christian Payne.
<g>Of</g> the accommodations to be had at Tinterne Abbey in his day, Captain
Barber has left the following reminiscence:--“Having despatched an
attendant for a barber on my arrival at the inn, a blacksmith was
forthwith introduced, who proved to be the only shaver in the place. The
appearance of this man, exhibiting, with all the grim sootiness of his
employment, his brawny arms bare to the shoulders, did not flatter me
with hopes of a very mild operation; nor were they increased when he
produced a razor that, for massiveness, might have served a Polyphemus.
I sat down, however, and was plentifully besmeared with soap-suds. After
this he attempted to supply the deficiency of an edge, by exerting his
ponderous strength in three or four such vigorous scrapes as, without
exciting my finer feelings, drew more tears into my eyes than might have
sufficed for a modern tragedy. I waited no longer; but releasing myself
from his iron gripe, determined to pass for a Jew Rabbi, rather than
undergo the penance of another ‘shaving at _Tinterne_.’”
[Illustration]
<g>Plan of the Abbey.</g>--The following simplified description may probably
assist the reader to form a correct notion of the sacred and conventual
buildings, of which the abbey was originally composed; and of the
various compartments into which, in their former and perfect condition,
these were so admirably arranged and subdivided:--
Entering the church by the west doorway, the visitor passes along the
nave, with the “pillared aisles” on his right and left, and the
newly-discovered pavement. In the distance, and directly opposite, under
the great east window, is the high altar, as distinctly shown in the
engraved illustration. Moving along the nave, he observes five distinct
clustered pillars, surmounted by the magnificent arches, described in
these pages. At the commencement of the north and south transepts, he
will examine the bases of the four massive columns which formerly
supported the great central tower; the doors and windows of the
transepts; the sepulchral fragments scattered along the smooth grassy
parterre of the choir; then, at the north-west corner of the north
transept, he will ascend a few steps of a spiral staircase leading to
the top of the church; and, from the gallery which runs round within the
wall, look down on the scene before and beneath him. Descending to the
transept floor, he will enter a door near the angle where the nave and
north transept unite; and entering a passage northward, through a richly
ornamented doorway, he will observe the following apartments, viz.:--
<g>The Cloister</g> on the left, forming a considerable quadrangle, the sides
of which are of the same length as the nave of the church, on which it
closely abuts, running parallel with it to the west doorway, and
bordering the public road. Here, also, are some mutilated sepulchral
effigies of ancient abbots, crosses, &c., from which the inlaid brasses
have been sacrilegiously purloined. On the right hand of the visitor, as
he enters, is the ancient
<g>Vestry</g>, or sacristy, an oblong chamber, divided into two compartments,
the second of which opens by a doorway into the North <g>Transept</g>. Closely
adjoining this on the north, is
<g>The Chapter-house</g>, of the same form and dimensions as the vestry, but
not subdivided. Farther again on the right is a large hall, with the
remains of five central pillars that supported the arched stone roof,
supposed to be the ancient
<g>Hospitium</g>, or guest-chamber, already described in these pages. On the
east of this, and running parallel with it, are the remains of offices
or apartments--probably dormitories--the precise use of which has not
been ascertained. Beyond, eastward, lay the Cemetery. Adjoining the
Hospitium on the west, and connecting it with the Refectory, are several
small buildings, with the remains of other dormitories on the upper
floor. Immediately adjoining this, on the west, is the
<g>Refectory</g>, a spacious hall, in which the brethren, as already described,
sat at table. The _Lectern_, or pulpit-desk, at which a reader presided
during meals, is still visible about the middle of the west side. From
the refectory, a tourniquet-door, for the passage of viands only,
communicated with the <g>kitchen</g>; and close to this is the _dole_, where
the indigent and wayfaring poor were daily supplied with victuals and
refreshments. The kitchen runs parallel with the cloisters, and the west
entrance of the church, along the public road leading to the ferry.
The Scale annexed to the Plan of the Abbey--as shown by the
woodcut--will enable the reader to ascertain, with tolerable accuracy,
the dimensions of all the compartments named.
[Illustration:
1 Doorway leading into the <g>Cloisters</g>.
2 <g>Effigies</g> of Abbots--the brasses removed.
3 Door leading into the Vestiary and Sacristy.
4 The <g>Chapter-house</g>--bases of pillars.
5 Supposed <g>Hospitium</g>, or Guest-Hall--bases of central pillars.
6 Buildings, with dormitories in the upper floor.
7 The <g>Lectern</g>, or Reading-Desk, during meals.
8 Tesselated <g>pavement</g>, lately discovered.
9 <g>Staircase</g> leading to the Triforia, and top of the abbey.
10 Aperture for serving the dishes from the kitchen.
11 <g>Dole</g>, for the distribution of food to the poor.
Proportions.--Length of Chancel and Nave, 228 feet.
Length of Transepts across, 150 “
Height of the Tower Arches, 70 “
Height of the lesser Arches, 30 “
]
As a specimen of the marvellous connected with these ruins, we cannot
resist introducing another characteristic
<g>Legend.</g>--A party of gentlemen--_horresco referens_--who had inspected
the abbey, employed several labourers to dig in the orchard adjoining,
in hopes of discovering some antiquities. Part of one day and the
following night were spent in this employment, when at last they were
successful, and two human skeletons were discovered. Next day the same
party resolved to celebrate their discovery by a dinner in the abbey.
But scarcely had they commenced their sacrilegious repast, when a thick
darkness overspread the horizon; deep thunder raised its tremendous
voice, and shook the surrounding hills; lightnings flashed
[Illustration: _Tintern Abbey._