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THE
OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK;
A
COMPLETE VADE-MECUM
FOR
THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER,
TO INDIA _viâ_ EGYPT.
BY
CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S.
"GLOSTER--Knowest thou the way?
EDGAR--Both stile and gate, horseway and footway.
Poor Tom shall lead thee.--Take my hand."--SHAKSPERE.
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
WM. H. ALLEN AND CO.,
7, LEADENHALL-STREET.
1850.
LONDON:
LEWIS AND SON, FINCH-LANE, CORNHILL.
TO THE
CIVIL AND MILITARY SERVICES
OF
BRITISH INDIA,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED,
WITH GRATEFUL RESPECT
AND
CORDIAL GOOD WISHES,
BY
THEIR OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.
INTRODUCTION.
The purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to
submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient
form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey
Overland to India and _vice versâ_.
Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by
letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the
trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense,
the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces
inapposite and irrelevant questions; and it is not unusual to find, at
the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is
as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he
was when he first preferred his application. No clear and satisfactory
information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or
fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive
arrangement of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject.
There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide,--it
completes, in a measure--as far, at least, as the great Overland
scheme is in itself complete--my humble labours in the mighty cause of
steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen
years, I have earnestly and ardently advocated the accomplishment
of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary
enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a
semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836!), my endeavours never
relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned,
therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking
back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing
its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions,
I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant
consummation apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by
the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," and the "East India Company,"
not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese
possessions.
I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that
British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of
extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our
vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected.
The great cause _has_ triumphed,--some of my wildest dreams have
become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am
hopeful for the future.
Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes
of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish
interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with rebuffs and
misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have
also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by
receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value,
graciously transmitted through various channels. I may be excused
for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and
much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian
spirit,--it grapples comprehensively with the question, and
corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who
expressed his opinion "that steam-communication with India would be
cheaply bought at any price."
"BISHOPS PALACE, CALCUTTA,
"_22nd of October, 1838_.
"DEAR SIR,
"I should never forgive myself, if I conveyed to you the accompanying
resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere
gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has
laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the
greatest cause that ever interested humanity.
"I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of
steam-communication between India and Europe defy calculation. Such a
wonderful adaptation of science is full of 'the seed of things,' as
was said of Lord Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two
centuries since.
"The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners'
compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of
mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by
inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw
on, when the illumination of the more prostrate nations will be
borrowed from the most remote and exalted.
"Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman,
but as a man and a Christian, I have sincere pleasure in transmitting
to you the enclosed resolution, and am
"Your most obedient,
"D. CALCUTTA.
"TO CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER,
"&c., &c., &c."
The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of
comparative ease and pleasure; and, as it is my intention to publish
periodically a revised edition of "The Overland Guide Book," I shall
feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate
with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information
gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers
this route.
JAMES BARBER.
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.
PAGE
GIBRALTAR 8
ROCK OF DITTO, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND 9
MALTA 10
MALTESE PEASANT 22
ALEXANDRIA 24
BOULAC 28
ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS 29
DESERT CARRIAGE 32
ADEN 33
MUSSOOLAH BOAT 45
NILE BOAT 72
THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK.
The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, _viâ_
the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an
experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the
number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced
all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts,
details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called "_The
Overland Route_," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage,
from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is
taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his
destination.
The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans,
in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of
interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions
of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and
ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when
so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful
trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded
by gentlemen, whose courtesy and _sçavoir vivre_ are only equalled by
their nautical experience.
Still in this--the comparative infancy of the steam route--nine-tenths
of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most
expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes
in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the
fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.
Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and,
as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail,
the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been
published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which
he may desire to mark with special attention.
The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for
the object of this publication:--
INSTRUCTIONS AND HINTS TO PASSENGERS TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS,
CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.
TO BOMBAY.
ROUTES THROUGH FRANCE AND TRIESTE.
FROM INDIA, _viâ_ SYRA, MALTA, MARSEILLES, OR DIRECT TO
SOUTHAMPTON.
MISCELLANEOUS.
THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.
The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having contracted with Her
Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also
secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific
charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria
those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.
The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.
The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied
and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the
reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's
ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.
As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price,
persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate
ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application
and choice. On these points every information is most readily and
courteously given at the office of the "Peninsular and Oriental
Company." But if the party going be, from his absence from town
or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an
intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to
select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves,
but with all that appertains to them.
As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally
provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table
is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and
sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as
well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements
of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers _do_
provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles _not_
to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no
sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand,
looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or
those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised; but it
will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a
counterpane or _resai_ (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that,
on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on
deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its
place for such purposes.
The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month--provided the
luggage be sent down in due time.[1] Passengers need not leave London
till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend
sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The
vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a
truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are
in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an
agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less.
[Footnote 1: _Vide_ James Barber and Co.'s Circular.]
Railway trains from the Waterloo Bridge station to Southampton, in
the morning, at 7·15 o'clock, 10·30 o'clock (mail); afternoon, 1,
3·45, 5 o'clock (express); evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail
Sunday trains, morning, at 9 o'clock; afternoon, 5 o'clock; evening,
30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail passengers should be at the station at
least a quarter of an hour before the trains start.
Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 12·30
P.M.
The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should
be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be
a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching
about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters,
are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are
strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following
dimensions, _viz._:--length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches,
depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have _their names and the port of
debarkation distinctly painted on each package_. No package or baggage
should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt.
The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury
or breakage in handling.[2]
[Footnote 2: Ladies will find Messrs. Thresher and Glenny's air-tight
cases very useful, even in India. This firm, as general outfitters
for the Overland Route, deservedly stand high, and merit every
encouragement.]
The following are the leading points of the "Peninsular and Oriental
Company's" regulations:--
Passengers not proceeding, after taking berths, will forfeit half the
passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being unavoidably
prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which
it is taken, a transfer of the passage can be effected to a subsequent
steamer, on due notice being given, without forfeiture of any portion
of the deposit paid, and accommodation will be allotted as similar as
circumstances will permit.
On either side of the Isthmus, three cwt. of personal baggage is
allowed to each first-class passenger; but 16s. per cwt. is charged
by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all
baggage exceeding two cwt.
In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are
allowed one cwt. and a half each; 16s. per cwt. being charged by the
"Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt.
A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled
to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage; but is subject
to the charge in Egypt as above stated.
Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the
rate of £1 per cwt., in the Alexandria steamers, and £2 per cwt. in
the India vessels.
Any luggage beyond that allowed _free_ must be put on board and paid
for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet-bags and
hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. The Company
give notice that, all luggage (save as aforesaid) that shall be
shipped on the day of departure will be considered as extra, and
charged for accordingly.
Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage will incur
the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt.
The Company do not hold themselves responsible for detention, damage,
or loss of baggage.
As the allowance of baggage is on a liberal scale, and the freight of
parcels moderate, it is hoped that passengers will not convey parcels
or packages belonging to other persons, to the prejudice of the
Company's interests. A contrary course will involve risk, delay and
difficulty at the Egyptian custom-house.
Passengers will be expected to comply strictly with the regulations
established on board the Company's steamers for the general comfort.
In the first instance, a passenger booking from England to Alexandria
only, but who _afterwards_ proceeds from Suez to India in this
Company's steamers, will be required to pay such an additional amount
only as will make up the sum, supposing he had taken his passage right
through from his embarkation in England.
Lights to be put out at half-past ten o'clock, after which, no wines,
spirits, &c., will be supplied, except in cases of illness, when
application is to be made to the purser through the surgeon.
No wines, spirits, or beer, are to be supplied elsewhere than in the
saloons, except in case of illness.
It is to be understood, that a passenger occupying a cabin of two or
more berths, on the departure of the vessel, is not (unless he shall
have paid an additional sum for its exclusive occupation) to object
to the vacant berth being filled up at the intermediate ports, if
required.
If there be any negligence, inattention, or impropriety, on the part
of any of the servants, or any other ground for dissatisfaction,
passengers are particularly requested to give notice immediately to
the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances;
and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by
letter, addressed to the secretary.
Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a
passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still
it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed
of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incumbrance,
if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those
_absolutely required_ very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that
passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of
luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to
have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their
departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance
and expense on the journey.
As by the Company's regulation no trunks, boxes or portmanteaus are
allowed in the cabins of their steamers, passengers should provide
themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be
packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use; and this bag
may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the
trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag
should be taken on board with the passenger; but the trunks and other
baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing.
We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The
steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to
Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers
soon conquer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintanceships are
rapidly formed; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time
"the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be
fairly appreciated.
GIBRALTAR.--From the title so often given to this pleasant
little port and garrison--"the Rock of Gibraltar,"--the traveller
expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its
friendly visitors as it was unapproachable to our foes; instead of
this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight
of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and
plantations. After the visit of the _pratique_ officer, boats approach
the newly-arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be
disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith's Hotel
offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller
may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy
of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and
inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Commercial Square,
formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction.
The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley
population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for
the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in
picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses
low, irregular and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few public buildings
worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government
of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. Mary, the court-house,
the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excavations,
the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the
Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices.
[Illustration: GIBRALTAR.]
Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on
horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space.
Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port,
where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly
emblazoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this,
are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the
centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly
the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this,
a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington.
[Illustration: THE ROCK, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND.]
Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael's Cave,
a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and
perforated by caves. The fantastic forms assumed by the stalactites
give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human
hands. Martin's Cave, not far from San Michael's, corresponds in
character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The
wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much entertainment by their
freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor's
cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly
situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to
Europa Point, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital,
capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of
the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and
bastions.
As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely
enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it
necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to
those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are
kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in
use.
After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon
reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free
from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are
at liberty at once to go on shore and see the "lions" of the place.
If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of
his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to
regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other
fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples,
pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears,
are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough
to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance
of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found
most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the
range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below
50° in the month of January, or rising above 88° during the summer
months.
[Illustration: MALTA.]
The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the
Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or
other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end
of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John,
under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised.
These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices; one is
occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth
as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge
(or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English
garrison; the Commissary-General tenants the Auberge de France--and so
on.
The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches
and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form; the uppermost
part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece
of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the
baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The
semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings
illustrative of the life of the above-mentioned apostle. The pavement
is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured
marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones,
the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the
graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar,
which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous,
and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and
other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the
different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave,
form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are
constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely
carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the
walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas
Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west
side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both
sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down
the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights.
Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side-walls are two
other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of
that apostle.
Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the
city, which belong to the Government: viz., the Church of the Jesuits
in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada
St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France.
The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the
Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order
to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar
veneration.
The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St.
Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars;
the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the
same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians,
Carmelites, Franciscans, and the _Minori Osservanti_, or Reformed
Franciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective
convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline
and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of
seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment
is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions.
Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the
other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the
public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to
Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern
architecture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen
Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta.
Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pietá, the
Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building
containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture
in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei
Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together
with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this
library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later
information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when
leaving England.
The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking
in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences
which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt
undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest
in the spot--singular by nature and art--and reposes quietly on the
information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge
of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some
highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the
chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of
Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover "a
grain of millet in a bushel of chaff," we merely desire to introduce
to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in
visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will
find little difficulty in wending his way to any part of it; he may
pass from one extremity to the other without a chance of molestation
or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for
Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of
an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of
the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently
without a prospect of supporting a family.
Passing out at Porte Reale--the gateway at the top of the principal
street of Valetta--and crossing the draw-bridge, the stupendous
defences of the city become apparent--deep ditches--every approach
enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon.
From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the
public garden;[3] a narrow promenade, of considerable extent, confined
between stone walls, on the esplanade between Valetta and the extensive
suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the
city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to
the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the
left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna
(the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes,
reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the
island of Malta.
[Footnote 3: During the governorship of Sir Alex. Ball, public gardens
for the accommodation or pleasure of the inhabitants of the various
"casals" were formed, but fell into disuse, and remain a trifling
memorial of a desire to inculcate good and friendly feelings in all
classes, and has been responded to by these places being totally
neglected for public use.]
Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some
twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pietá, Sliema, San
Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the
western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on
the Pietá, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty
extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile
on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is
the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or
six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pietá
(without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a
small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those
who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the country,
and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned
hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara,
and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern
or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads,
that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence
to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest
and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or
rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts
to San Pauls Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship-wrecked.
The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking
a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise
apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most
striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the
island of Gozo, with St. Paul's Bay and its tower quietly reposing
in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's Bay from Valetta is about
eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.[4] About four miles
farther on from St. Paul's Bay, and presenting more hill and dale
than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive
at Melleha, where the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing
particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines
and sterile rock; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a
small church (pretty liberally stored with votive offerings), with a
court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout
repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate.
Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry
to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of
the road must be a calesse--deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a
road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back
to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to
the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but
a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been
some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress
had in its construction, may never be finished.[5] Passing through this
casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed
bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that
would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden
times was designated on the maps "desert," and is now almost without
population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across
a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the
Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island,
the road is again covered by a line of defence; beyond this, it winds
round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the
natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found
in a nest of caves called "Ancient Tombs," now inhabited by some poor
families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.[6] An indifferent
road from this point leads to Citta Vecchia; but, as it possesses no
interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to
Casal Musta; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the
street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with
its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and
Casal Bazan, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent
to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara at the point where the
road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascending to the main road,
between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing
through Bircharcara and the Pietá, we return to Valetta. On the other
hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right,
a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the
generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter.
[Footnote 4: A calesse, the common carriage of Malta, a sort of
Brobdingnag imitation of a Dutch toy, can travel anywhere; but
those who wish to see the country must adopt some other conveyance.
Fortunately, under the government of Lieut.-General Sir F. Bouverie,
such attention was paid the roads in the island--a source of advantage
to the population, in every point of view, and the public in
general--that where, some twenty years ago or less, only two or three
carriages on four wheels, the property of private individuals, could be
found, they are now in pretty general use, and may be had on hire.]
[Footnote 5: Casal Musta was singularly enough selected, by the
commissioners of inquiry sent out to Malta in 1837, in reporting on the
liberty of the press and the adoption of a newspaper--that it contained
upwards of 5,000 inhabitants, of whom not more than 50 could read!]
[Footnote 6: This sketch is intended simply as a guide to the
superficial observer, on a few hours' detention in the island, and
in no way with a view to geological disquisition. However, without
any speculative theories, regarding the origin and present state of
Malta--whether it arose by some convulsive throe from the ocean which
surrounds it, or that the Mediterranean Sea, from remote causes, has
lost its former elevation, being now found considerably below the level
of the Red Sea, it may be mentioned, without dread of refutation, that
these caverns, like numerous others in the island, show the water
line at the period of their formation, as those under the black rock
and the southern face especially. A recent writer on the statistics,
&c., of the island of Malta and its dependencies, who visited Valetta,
and knew little of Malta, informs his readers, that Malta is furrowed
with what he designates valleys from S.W. to N.E.--following out the
assertions of another and former resident in Malta--that the course of
the various ravines was from west to east, as if to render subservient
to geological theories, the mode or order in which Malta must have been
formed; yet the slightest observation (which neither had exercised)
proves these ravines to embrace each of the cardinal, and, perhaps,
not less the subsidiary, points of the compass. In like manner, this
writer on the statistics states very boldly that the island of Gozo
has villages but _no town_; Rubatto has its cathedral, numerous
churches, religious establishments, with its imposing citadel for
defence, occupying considerable extent of ground, and with a population
exceeding 7,000 souls, and to which the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie,
added an aqueduct, for a more certain supply of water. Mr. Martin never
visited Gozo, and this, like other portions of his work, is merely
gathered from report.]
The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from
Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and
well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts
or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance
of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city.
Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway
of the aqueduct-one called "the Lions"--from two effigies in stone of
that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance; this the late
governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference
to the more imposing and regal residence of St. Antonio.
From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road
to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some
casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so
surrounded and intersected by stone walls, that it appears difficult
to determine to what end these enclosures were erected, except before
the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and
beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger
of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from
Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens,
unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day,
in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved
walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and
water-works, on a small scale--art subduing nature, but apparently
appropriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible
to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military
secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without
that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you
pass through Casal Attard,--a small casal with some good houses in it,
but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals.
From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the immediate
neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields appear more natural
and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more
guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist
on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the
citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church; without, is the
suburb, properly _Rabbato_; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is
said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the
inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The
church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island.
Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called;
you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well explored,
an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their
origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales
concerning them; but it may be left to conjecture, whether they were
the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of
the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours.
To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four
miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular
interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a
_pic-nic_. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large
convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace
Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay;
below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive
groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island,
and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small
but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta.
The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the
same road; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta,
as far on the road as the Palace Verdali, a road branches off to the
right, leading through the Casal Seggui; hence to Zettug, one of the
largest and most populous in the island; and, descending the hill by
a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view
of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in
the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has
nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller;
passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the
aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta.
Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short distance on the
main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head
of the great harbour; hold the road to the right; after passing the
fishermen's huts, the road leads through the Marsa--a tract, to the
superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; _ascend the hill_
and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at
a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal
Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of
which is to be seen Macluba, the landslip, or, in whatever other way
it may be designated; and, ascending the hill from the chapel close
by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half
distance, at the rude remains of a Phoenician temple, recently
explored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the
casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, standing out rather
conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from
the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is
the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and
Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern
side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church,
leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia; at
the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well-walled
grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French
were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General
Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A
windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads; that to the
right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one
of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on
Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of
the island attends, terminates at this casal: one other casal in this
direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines,
which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line
of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government
works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three
cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from which this casal is a trifling
distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the
grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent
houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal
Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated
by the English the "Deserted Village;" turning to the left, at the end
nearest Valetta, and passing by the _front_ of the new prison, a good
road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the way
to Casal Luca; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des
Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass along the Marina, and
so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta.
[Illustration: A MALTESE PEASANT.]
The traveller may refer to the GUIDE BOOK at Malta for other
places considered of importance; but as they are remote, like the
Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no
attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately; but,
with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals
are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and
a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of
others less remote.
As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may
consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we
may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will
insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will
mislead accordingly, by directing strangers to the only two points
within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension--Valetta or Citta
Vecchia.
Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of
any notice; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days' trip.
ALEXANDRIA.--We now arrive at this port.
[Illustration: ALEXANDRIA.]
For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better
directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson,
the representative of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," a
gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers
passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson
repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexandria, and
superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez.
He writes thus:--
"The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three
days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on
arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it
with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other
luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be
landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of
the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the same. These
he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where
they are exposed, before dispatched to Suez, for recognition, in the
British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his
carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where
it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after
he has taken out the necessary articles[7] for use in crossing the
desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds' weight to each
passenger in the carriage.
[Footnote 7: We recommend ladies to provide themselves with a basket
having a cross handle and two flaps, as the most convenient to hold
their desert requirements.]