CHAPTER XXII

A RIDE IN A STAGE-COACH

WE shall now return to Cincinnati, where we left Clotel preparing

to go to Richmond in search of her daughter. Tired of the

disguise in which she had escaped, she threw it off on her

arrival at Cincinnati. But being assured that not a shadow of

safety would attend her visit to a city in which she was well

known, unless in some disguise, she again resumed men's apparel

on leaving Cincinnati. This time she had more the appearance of an

Italian or Spanish gentleman. In addition to the fine suit of

black cloth, a splendid pair of dark false whiskers covered the

sides of her face, while the curling moustache found its place

upon the upper lip. From practice she had become accustomed to

high-heeled boots, and could walk without creating any suspicion

as regarded her sex. It was a cold evening that Clotel arrived at

Wheeling, and took a seat in the coach going to Richmond. She was

already in the state of Virginia, yet a long distance from the

place of her destination.

A ride in a stage-coach, over an American road, is unpleasant

under the most favourable circumstances. But now that it was

winter, and the roads unusually bad, the journey was still more

dreary. However, there were eight passengers in the coach, and I

need scarcely say that such a number of genuine Americans could

not be together without whiling away the time somewhat

pleasantly. Besides Clotel, there was an elderly gentleman with

his two daughters--one apparently under twenty years, the other a

shade above. The pale, spectacled face of another slim, tall man,

with a white neckerchief, pointed him out as a minister. The

rough featured, dark countenance of a stout looking man, with a

white hat on one side of his head, told that he was from the

sunny South. There was nothing remarkable about the other two,

who might pass for ordinary American gentlemen. It was on the eve

of a presidential election, when every man is thought to be a

politician. Clay, Van Buren, and Harrison were the men who

expected the indorsement of the Baltimore Convention. "Who does

this town go for?" asked the old gent with the ladies, as the

coach drove up to an inn, where groups of persons were waiting

for the latest papers. "We are divided," cried the rough voice of

one of the outsiders. "Well, who do you think will get the

majority here?" continued the old gent. "Can't tell very well; I

go for 'Old Tip,'" was the answer from without. This brought up

the subject fairly before the passengers, and when the coach

again started a general discussion commenced, in which all took a

part except Clotel and the young ladies. Some were for Clay, some

for Van Buren, and others for "Old Tip." The coach stopped to

take in a real farmer-looking man, who no sooner entered than he

was saluted with "Do you go for Clay?" "No," was the answer. "Do

you go for Van Buren?" "No." "Well, then, of course you will go

for Harrison." "No." "Why, don't you mean to work for any of them

at the election?" "No." "Well, who will you work for?" asked

one of the company. "I work for Betsy and the children, and I

have a hard job of it at that," replied the farmer, without a

smile. This answer, as a matter of course, set the new

corner down as one upon whom the rest of the passengers could

crack their jokes with the utmost impunity. "Are you an Odd

Fellow?" asked one. "No, sir, I've been married more than a

month." "I mean, do you belong to the order of Odd Fellows?"

"No, no; I belong to the order of married men." "Are you a mason?"

"No, I am a carpenter by trade." "Are you a Son of Temperance?"

"Bother you, no; I am a son of Mr. John Gosling." After a hearty

laugh in which all joined, the subject of Temperance became the

theme for discussion. In this the spectacled gent was at home.

He soon showed that he was a New Englander, and went the whole

length of the "Maine Law." The minister was about having it all

his own way, when the Southerner, in the white hat, took the

opposite side of the question. "I don't bet a red cent on these

teetotlars," said he, and at the same time looking round to see

if he had the approbation of the rest of the company. "Why?"

asked the minister. "Because they are a set who are afraid to

spend a cent. They are a bad lot, the whole on 'em." It was

evident that the white hat gent was an uneducated man. The

minister commenced in full earnest, and gave an interesting

account of the progress of temperance in Connecticut, the state

from which he came, proving, that a great portion of the

prosperity of the state was attributable to the disuse of

intoxicating drinks. Every one thought the white hat had got the

worst of the argument, and that he was settled for the remainder

of the night. But not he; he took fresh courage and began again.

"Now," said he, "I have just been on a visit to my uncle's in

Vermont, and I guess I knows a little about these here

teetotlars. You see, I went up there to make a little stay of a

fortnight. I got there at night, and they seemed glad to see

me, but they didn't give me a bit of anything to drink.

Well, thinks I to myself, the jig's up: I sha'n't get any more

liquor till I get out of the state." We all sat up till twelve

o'clock that night, and I heard nothing but talk about the

'Juvinal Temperence Army,' the 'Band of Hope,' the 'Rising

Generation,' the 'Female Dorcas Temperance Society,' 'The None

Such,' and I don't know how many other names they didn't have.

As I had taken several pretty large 'Cock Tails' before I entered

the state, I thought upon the whole that I would not spite for

the want of liquor. The next morning, I commenced writing back to

my friends, and telling them what's what. Aunt Polly said, 'Well,

Johnny, I s'pose you are given 'em a pretty account of us all

here.' 'Yes,' said I; I am tellin' 'em if they want anything to

drink when they come up here, they had better bring it with 'em.'

'Oh,' said aunty, 'they would search their boxes; can't bring any

spirits in the state.' Well, as I was saying, jist as I got my

letters finished, and was going to the post office (for uncle's

house was two miles from the town), aunty says, 'Johnny, I s'pose

you'll try to get a little somethin' to drink in town won't you?'

Says I, 'I s'pose it's no use. 'No,' said she, 'you can't; it

ain't to be had no how, for love nor money.' So jist as I was

puttin' on my hat, 'Johnny,' cries out aunty, 'What,' says I.

'Now I'll tell you, I don't want you to say nothin' about it, but

I keeps a little rum to rub my head with, for I am troubled with

the headache; now I don't want you to mention it for the world,

but I'll give you a little taste, the old man is such a

teetotaller, that I should never hear the last of it, and I would

not like for the boys to know it, they are members of the "Cold

Water Army."'

"Aunty now brought out a black bottle and gave me a cup, and told

me to help myself, which I assure you I did. I now felt ready to

face the cold. As I was passing the barn I heard uncle thrashing

oats, so I went to the door and spoke to him. 'Come in, John,'

says he. 'No,' said I; 'I am goin' to post some letters,' for I

was afraid that he would smell my breath if I went too near to

him. 'Yes, yes, come in.' So I went in, and says he, 'It's now

eleven o'clock; that's about the time you take your grog, I

s'pose, when you are at home.' 'Yes,' said I. 'I am sorry for

you, my lad; you can't get anything up here; you can't even get

it at the chemist's, except as medicine, and then you must let

them mix it and you take it in their presence.' 'This is indeed

hard,' replied I; 'Well, it can't be helped,' continued he: 'and

it ought not to be if it could. It's best for society; people's

better off without drink. I recollect when your father and I,

thirty years ago, used to go out on a spree and spend more than

half a dollar in a night. Then here's the rising generation;

there's nothing like settin' a good example. Look how healthy

your cousins are there's Benjamin, he never tasted spirits in his

life. Oh, John, I would you were a teetotaller.' 'I suppose,'

said I, 'I'll have to be one till I leave the state.' 'Now,' said

he, 'John, I don't want you to mention it, for your aunt would go

into hysterics if she thought there was a drop of intoxicating

liquor about the place, and I would not have the boys to know it

for anything, but I keep a little brandy to rub my joints for the

rheumatics, and being it's you, I'll give you a little dust.' So

the old man went to one corner of the barn, took out a brown jug

and handed it to me, and I must say it was a little the best

cognac that I had tasted for many a day. Says I, 'Uncle, you are

a good judge of brandy.' 'Yes,' said he, 'I learned when I was

young.' So off I started for the post office. In returnin' I

thought I'd jist go through the woods where the boys were chopping

wood, and wait and go to the house with them when they went to

dinner. I found them hard at work, but as merry as crickets.

'Well, cousin John, are you done writing?' 'Yes,' answered I.

'Have you posted them?' 'Yes.' 'Hope you didn't go to any place

inquiring for grog.' 'No, I knowed it was no good to do that.'

'I suppose a cock-tail would taste good now.' 'Well, I

guess it would,' says I. The three boys then joined in a hearty

laugh. 'I suppose you have told 'em that we are a dry set up

here?' 'Well, I ain't told em anything else.' 'Now, cousin John,'

said Edward, 'if you wont say anything, we will give you a small

taste. For mercy's sake don't let father or mother know it; they

are such rabid teetotallers, that they would not sleep a wink

to-night if they thought there was any spirits about the place.'

'I am mum,' says I. And the boys took a jug out of a hollow

stump, and gave me some first-rate peach brandy. And during the

fortnight that I was in Vermont, with my teetotal relations, I

was kept about as well corned as if I had been among my hot water

friends in Tennessee."

This narrative, given by the white hat man, was received with

unbounded applause by all except the pale gent in spectacles,

who showed, by the way in which he was running his fingers

between his cravat and throat, that he did not intend to "give it

up so." The white hat gent was now the lion of the company.

"Oh, you did not get hold of the right kind of teetotallers,"

said the minister. "I can give you a tale worth a dozen of yours,

continued he. "Look at society in the states where temperance

views prevail, and you will there see real happiness. The people

are taxed less, the poor houses are shut up for want of

occupants, and extreme destitution is unknown. Every one who

drinks at all is liable to become an habitual drunkard. Yes, I

say boldly, that no man living who uses intoxicating drinks, is

free from the danger of at least occasional, and if of

occasional, ultimately of habitual excess. There seems to be no

character, position, or circumstances that free men from the

danger. I have known many young men of the finest promise, led by

the drinking habit into vice, ruin, and early death. I have known

many tradesmen whom it has made bankrupt. I have known Sunday

scholars whom it has led to prison-teachers, and even

superintendents, whom it has dragged down to profligacy. I have

known ministers of high academic honours, of splendid eloquence,

nay, of vast usefulness, whom it has fascinated, and hurried over

the precipice of public infamy with their eyes open, and gazing

with horror on their fate. I have known men of the strongest and

clearest intellect and of vigorous resolution, whom it has made

weaker than children and fools--gentlemen of refinement and taste

whom it has debased into brutes--poets of high genius whom it has

bound in a bondage worse than the galleys, and ultimately cut

short their days. I have known statesmen, lawyers, and judges

whom it has killed--kind husbands and fathers whom it has turned

into monsters. I have known honest men whom it has made villains;

elegant and Christian ladies whom it has converted into bloated

sots."

"But you talk too fast," replied the white hat man. "You don't

give a feller a chance to say nothin'."

"I heard you," continued the minister, "and now you hear me out.

It is indeed wonderful how people become lovers of strong drink.

Some years since, before I became a teetotaller I kept spirits

about the house, and I had a servant who was much addicted to

strong drink. He used to say that he could not make my boots

shine, without mixing the blacking with whiskey. So to satisfy

myself that the whiskey was put in the blacking, one morning I

made him bring the dish in which he kept the blacking, and poured

in the whiskey myself. And now, sir, what do you think?" "Why, I

s'pose your boots shined better than before," replied the white

hat. "No," continued the minister. "He took the blacking out, and

I watched him, and he drank down the whiskey, blacking, and all."

This turned the joke upon the advocate of strong drink, and he

began to put his wits to work for arguments. "You are from

Connecticut, are you?" asked the Southerner. "Yes, and we are an

orderly, pious, peaceable people. Our holy religion is respected,

and we do more for the cause of Christ than the whole Southern

States put together." "I don't doubt it," said the white hat

gent. "You sell wooden nutmegs and other spurious articles enough

to do some good. You talk of your 'holy religion'; but your

robes' righteousness are woven at Lowell and Manchester; your

paradise is high per centum on factory stocks; your palms of

victory and crowns of rejoicing are triumphs over a rival party

in politics, on the questions of banks and tariffs. If you could,

you would turn heaven into Birmingham, make every angel a weaver,

and with the eternal din of looms and spindles drown all the

anthems of the morning stars. Ah! I know you Connecticut people

like a book. No, no, all hoss; you can't come it on me." This

last speech of the rough featured man again put him in the

ascendant, and the spectacled gent once more ran his fingers

between his cravat and throat. "You live in Tennessee, I think,"

said the minister. "Yes," replied the Southerner, "I used

to live in Orleans, but now I claim to be a Tennessean."

"Your people of New Orleans are the most ungodly set in the

United States," said the minister. Taking a New Orleans newspaper

from his pocket he continued, "Just look here, there are not less

than three advertisements of bull fights to take place on the

Sabbath. You people of the Slave States have no regard for the

Sabbath, religion, morality or anything else intended to, make

mankind better." Here Clotel could have borne ample testimony, had

she dared to have taken sides with the Connecticut man. Her

residence in Vicksburgh had given her an opportunity of knowing

something of the character of the inhabitants of the far South.

"Here is an account of a grand bull fight that took place in New

Orleans a week ago last Sunday. I will read it to you." And the

minister read aloud the following:

"Yesterday, pursuant to public notice, came off at Gretna,

opposite the Fourth District, the long heralded fight between the

famous grizzly bear, General Jackson (victor in fifty battles),

and the Attakapas bull, Santa Anna.

"The fame of the coming conflict had gone forth to the four winds,

and women and children, old men and boys, from all parts of the

city, and from the breezy banks of Lake Pontchartrain and Borgne,

brushed up their Sunday suit, and prepared to ace the fun. Long

before the published hour, the quiet streets of the rural Gretna

were filled with crowds of anxious denizens, flocking to the

arena, and before the fight commenced, such a crowd had collected

as Gretna had not seen, nor will be likely to see again.

"The arena for the sports was a cage, twenty feet square, built

upon the ground, and constructed of heavy timbers and iron bars.

Around it were seats, circularly placed, and intended to

accommodate many thousands. About four or five-thousand persons

assembled, covering the seats as with a Cloud, and crowding down

around the cage, were within reach of the bars.

"The bull selected to sustain the honour and verify the pluck of

Attakapas on this trying occasion was a black animal from the

Opelousas, lithe and sinewy as a four year old courser, and with

eyes like burning coals. His horns bore the appearance of

having been filed at the tips, and wanted that keen and slashing

appearance so common with others of his kith and kin; otherwise

it would have been 'all day' with Bruin--at the first pass, and

no mistake.

"The bear was an animal of note, and called General Jackson, from

the fact of his licking up everything that came in his way, and

taking 'the responsibility' on all occasions. He was a wicked

looking beast, very lean and unamiable in aspect, with hair all

standing the wrong way. He had fought some fifty bulls (so they

said), always coming out victorious, but that neither one of the

fifty had been an Attakapas bull, the bills of the performances

did not say. Had he tackled Attakapas first it is likely his

fifty battles would have remained unfought.

"About half past four o'clock the performances commenced.

"The bull was first seen, standing in the cage alone, with head

erect, and looking a very monarch in his capacity. At an

appointed signal, a cage containing the bear was placed

alongside the arena, and an opening being made, bruin stalked into

the battle ground--not, however, without sundry stirrings up with

a ten foot pole, he being experienced in such matters, and

backwards in raising a row.

"Once on the battle-field, both animals stood, like wary

champions, eyeing each other, the bear cowering low, with head

upturned and fangs exposed, while Attakapas stood wondering, with

his eye dilated, lashing his sides with his long and bushy tail,

and pawing up the earth in very wrath.

"The bear seemed little inclined to begin the attack, and the

bull, standing a moment, made steps first backward and then

forward, as if measuring his antagonist, and meditating where to

plant a blow. Bruin wouldn't come to the scratch no way, till one

of the keepers, with an iron rod, tickled his ribs and made him

move. Seeing this, Attakapas took it as a hostile demonstration,

and, gathering his strength, dashed savagely at the enemy,

catching him on the points of his horns, and doubling him up like

a sack of bran against the bars. Bruin 'sung out' at this, 'and

made a dash for his opponent's nose.'

"Missing this, the bull turned to the 'about face,' and the bear

caught him by the ham, inflicting a ghastly wound. But Attakapas

with a kick shook him off, and renewing the attack, went at him

again, head on and with a rush. This time he was not so fortunate,

for the bear caught him above the eye, burying his fangs in the

tough hide, and holding him as in a vice. It was now

the bull's turn to 'sing out,' and he did it, bellowing forth with

a voice more hideous than that of all the bulls of Bashan. Some

minutes stood matters thus, and the cries of the bull, mingled

with the hoarse growls of the bear, made hideous music, fit only

for a dance of devils. Then came a pause (the bear having

relinquished his hold), and for a few minutes it was doubtful

whether the fun was not up. But the magic wand of the keeper (the

ten foot pole) again stirred up bruin, and at it they went, and

with a rush.

"Bruin now tried to fasten on the bull's back, and drove his tusks

in him in several places, making the red blood flow like wine

from the vats of Luna. But Attakapas was pluck to the back bone,

and, catching bruin on the tips of his horns, shuffled him up

right merrily, making the fur fly like feathers in a gale of

wind. Bruin cried 'Nuff' (in bear language), but the bull

followed up his advantage, and, making one furious plunge full at

the figure head of the enemy, struck a horn into his eye, burying

it there, and dashing the tender organ into darkness and atoms.

Blood followed the blow, and poor bruin, blinded, bleeding, and

in mortal agony, turned with a howl to leave, but Attakapas

caught him in the retreat, and rolled him over like a ball. Over

and over again this rolling over was enacted, and finally, after

more than an hour, bruin curled himself up on his back, bruised,

bloody, and dead beat. The thing was up with California, and

Attakapas was declared the victor amidst the applause of the

multitude that made the heavens ring."

"There," said he, "can you find anything against Connecticut equal

to that?" The Southerner had to admit that he was beat by the

Yankee. During all this time, it must not be supposed that the

old gent with the two daughters, and even the young ladies

themselves, had been silent. Clotel and they had not only given

their opinions as regarded the merits of the discussion, but that

sly glance of the eye, which is ever given where the young of

both sexes meet, had been freely at work. The American ladies are

rather partial to foreigners, and Clotel had the appearance of a

fine Italian. The old gentleman was now near his home,

and a whisper from the eldest daughter, who was unmarried but

marriageable, induced him to extend to "Mr. Johnson" an invitation

to stop and spend a week with the young ladies at their family

residence. Clotel excused herself upon various grounds, and at

last, to cut short the matter, promised that she would pay them a

visit on her return. The arrival of the coach at Lynchburgh

separated the young ladies from the Italian gent, and the coach

again resumed its journey.

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