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[Illustration: _Montreal, from the Mountain._]
CANADIAN SCENERY
ILLUSTRATED.
FROM DRAWINGS BY W. H. BARTLETT.
THE LITERARY DEPARTMENT BY
N. P. WILLIS, ESQ.
AUTHOR OF “PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY,” “INKLINGS OF ADVENTURE,” ETC.
* * * * *
VOL. II.
* * * * *
LONDON:
VIRTUE & CO., CITY ROAD AND IVY LANE.
CONTENTS
I. MONTREAL AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
II. QUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
III. EASTERN TOWNSHIPS.
IV. SUGGESTIONS ON EMIGRATION.
V. SPORTING IN CANADA.
VI. IMPRESSIONS OF CANADA, NIAGARA, THE ST. LAWRENCE, ETC. UPON EMIGRANT
SETTLERS.
VII. NEW BRUNSWICK.
LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
* * * * *
VOL. II.
* * * * *
MONTREAL, FROM THE MOUNTAIN.
THE CATHEDRAL, MONTREAL.
INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL, MONTREAL.
TIMBER SLIDE AT “LES CHATS.”
THE LAC DES ALLUMETTES.
JUNCTION OF THE OTTAWA AND ST. LAWRENCE.
PORTAGE DES CHATS.
FALLS OF THE OTTAWA AT LES CHATS.
A SHANTY ON LAKE CHAUDIÈRE.
THE OWLS HEAD.
BRIDGE AT BYTOWN, UPPER CANADA.
THE RIDEAU CANAL, BYTOWN.
LOCKS ON THE RIDEAU CANAL.
THE OTTAWA RIVER AT BYTOWN.
MILL ON THE RIDEAU RIVER, NEAR BYTOWN.
CHURCH AT POINT LEVI.
THE CITADEL OF QUEBEC.
THE MARKET PLACE, QUEBEC.
TIMBER DEPOT NEAR QUEBEC.
MILLS AT SHERBROOKE, ON THE RIVER MAGOG.
BRIDGE AT SHERBROOKE.
PASS OF BOLTON, EASTERN TOWNSHIPS.
SCENE ON THE RIVER ST. FRANCIS NEAR SHERBROOKE.
ORFORD MOUNTAIN.
LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.
OUTLET OF LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.
A SETTLER’S HUT ON THE FRONTIER.
DAVIS’ CLEARING.
VIEW FROM THE HOUSE OF R. SHIRREFF, ESQ.
TIMBER SLIDE AND BRIDGE ON THE OTTAWA.
LAKE MASSAWHIPPY.
A LAKE FARM ON THE FRONTIER.
LAKE BENEATH THE OWLS-HEAD MOUNTAIN.
ORFORD LAKE.
VIEW OVER LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.
WORKING A CANOE UP A RAPID.
SCENE ON THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
BROCKVILLE—ST. LAWRENCE.
KINGSTON—LAKE ONTARIO.
COBURG.
LIGHT-TOWER, NEAR COBURG.
WELLINGTON, ON LAKE ONTARIO.
INDIAN SCENE ON THE ST. LAWRENCE.
VIEW ON THE FRONTIER LINE, NEAR STANSTEAD PLAINS.
FALLS ON THE ST. JOHN RIVER.
A FIRST SETTLEMENT.
FREDERICTON—NEW BRUNSWICK.
FREDERICTON—NEW BRUNSWICK. FROM OPPOSITE.
THE GREEN AT FREDERICTON.
THE GOVERNOR’S HOUSE, FREDERICTON.
INDIAN TOWN.
SPLIT ROCK.
ST. JOHN FROM THE SIGNAL.
ST. JOHN AND PORTLAND, NEW BRUNSWICK.
LILY LAKE.
SCENE IN THE BAY OF ANNAPOLIS.
AN OLD FORT IN NOVA SCOTIA.
THE GENERAL’S BRIDGE, NEAR ANNAPOLIS.
KENTVILLE.
WINDSOR, NOVA SCOTIA.
THE RESIDENCE OF JUDGE HALIBURTON.
CAPE BLOWMEDON AND PARRSBORO’.
CAPE SPLIT.
VIEW OF THE CITY OF HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA.
CANADIAN SCENERY.
* * * * *
CHAP. I.
MONTREAL AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
The rural districts of Trois Rivières, so far as they lie northward of
the St. Lawrence, form a continuation of the same kind of territory as
that below, and are in general flatter, and capable of more uniform
cultivation. To the westward, especially in ascending the river, it
presents a succession of flourishing settlements and gay villages,
occurring every eight or nine miles. These extend, particularly along
the Lake of St. Peter, a wide expansion of the St. Lawrence, about
twenty-five miles long, and from five to ten broad, but its depth in
many places does not exceed twelve feet. Hence the intricate channels,
through which alone large vessels can be navigated, must be marked by
poles or other beacons. The shores are extremely flat, but numerous
verdant islands enliven the western extremity, which also mark the
boundary of the provinces. Near the eastern frontier, the Batiscan, with
a village of the same name at its mouth, falls into the great river.
The district of Montreal, if not the most extensive in Lower Canada, is,
at least, that which contains the greatest portion of valuable land.
Commencing at the western boundary of Trois Rivières, it extends along
the St. Lawrence, but in that direction terminates where Upper Canada
begins, not far above the capital. It shoots, however, a long branch of
the Ottawa, embracing all the northern bank of that river, till it is
bounded along with the Lower Province, by Lake Temiscaming. This
district, on the north of the St. Lawrence, comprehends the counties of
Montreal, Berthier, Lachenaye, L’Assomption, Terrebonne, Two Mountains,
Vaudreuil, and Ottawa, containing a population of 147,649. Another
portion, nearly equally valuable, lies on the south side, and will be
afterwards described.
Montreal, the chief town in this district, though not ranking as a
capital, is equal to Quebec in magnitude, and superior in commercial
importance. Its greatness is likely to increase, from its favourable
situation, and the growing prosperity of Upper Canada, of which, as
being the highest point of the St. Lawrence to which vessels of the
first class can ascend, it always continues the emporium.
The site of this town does not present those bold and grand features
which distinguish the Canadian metropolis, though its beauty can
scarcely be surpassed. The river, in this finest part of its course,
divides itself into two channels, inclosing an island thirty-two miles
long and ten and a half broad, which forms one of the most favoured
spots on earth. The soil, everywhere luxuriant, is cultivated like one
great garden, to supply the inhabitants with vegetables and fruit. These
last are of the finest quality, and the apples especially are said to
display that superiority which so remarkably distinguishes them in the
New World. Although the island possesses in general that level surface
that fits it for a thorough cultivation, yet about a mile and a half
north-east rises a hill, 550 feet high, commanding a noble view over the
fertile country, which is watered by the several branches and
tributaries of the St. Lawrence. Its face is covered with agreeable
villas, and its wooded heights form a frequent resort to pleasure
parties from the city; but the intention now understood to be
entertained of erecting fortifications on its summit, will, if put into
execution, banish in a great measure its rural character.
The city, built on the southern border of this fine island, is not
crowded like Quebec into a limited space, which can alone be covered
with streets and habitations. It has a wide level surface to extend
over, so that even the older streets are of tolerable breadth, and
several of them occupy its entire length. The principal one, Rue Notre
Dame, considerably exceeds half a mile in extent, and contains many of
the chief public buildings. There is an upper and lower town, though the
difference of elevation is very slight; but the former is much the more
handsome of the two. The seven suburbs are not, as in the older capital,
detached and extraneous, but on the same level, and immediately
adjacent. Their streets, continued in the direction of those in the body
of the place, are regular, and display many handsome houses. The
vicinity is adorned with beautiful villas.
[Illustration: _The Cathedral, Montreal._]
Of the public edifices, the new catholic cathedral, completed in 1829,
is undoubtedly the most splendid, and is, in fact, superior to any other
in British America. Its style is a species of Gothic; it is 255 feet 6
inches in length, and 134 feet 6 inches in breadth. The flanks rise 61
feet above the terrace, and there are six towers, of which the three
belonging to the main front are 220 feet high. It is faced with
excellent stone, and roofed with tin. The principal window is 64 feet in
height, and 32 broad. On the roof has been formed a promenade, 76 feet
by 20, elevated 120 feet, and commanding a most delightful view. The
interior contains 1244 pews, equal to the accommodation of at least
10,000 persons. There are five public and three private entrances to the
first floor, and four to the galleries, so disposed that this vast
congregation can easily assemble and disperse in a few minutes. The
building comprises seven chapels, all visible from the front entrance,
and nine spacious aisles. The high altar bears a resemblance to that at
St. Peter’s at Rome, the pulpit to that of the cathedral at Strasburg.
The large window is painted, but not in good style; it is intended that
it shall be filled hereafter with stained glass. The other catholic
edifices belong mostly to the order of St. Sulpice, by whose members, as
formerly mentioned, Montreal was chiefly founded, and who hold the
superiority of the whole island upon which it stands. Their seminary,
which is a large and commodious building adjoining the cathedral,
occupies three sides of a square, 132 feet long by 90 deep, and is
surrounded by spacious gardens. To extend its benefits, the order have
lately, at an expense of 10,000_l._, erected a handsome additional
building, 210 feet by 45. In these establishments, the numerous
students, attending all the branches of learning and philosophy, are
taught at very moderate charges. There are two large nunneries; the
principal one, called the Congregation of Notre Dame, contains a
superior and sixty sisters, who receive boarders at a low rate, and send
teachers to different parts of the district. The _Sœurs Gris_ (Grey
Sisters) consist of a superior and twenty-four nuns, who admit into
their spacious apartments the infirm poor, and are said to treat them
with great humanity. The Hôtel Dieu is a large conventual structure,
occupied by a superior and thirty-six nuns, and is also appropriated to
the reception of the sick and indigent. Its utility is limited by the
smallness of its funds, notwithstanding occasional grants from the
legislature. The Monastery of the Recollets, which occupies extensive
grounds at the end of Notre Dame-street, is now demolished, though its
church is still used for public worship.
[Illustration: _Interior of the Cathedral, Montreal._]
The English establishments, both for religion and education, are also
very respectable. The Episcopal church in the street just named, is a
very handsome specimen of modern architecture, and is surmounted by a
lofty spire. The Scotch church is plain, but attended by a highly
respectable congregation. In 1814, a most important donation was made by
a wealthy individual—the Hon. James M^{c}Gill—to found a college for
the principal branches of education. The endowments consist of a
valuable estate at the Mountain, with 10,000_l._ in money. It has not,
however, yet come into operation, in consequence of a law-suit, which
did not terminate till 1835, when the available funds in the hands of
the institution amounted to 22,000_l._ It is to be conducted on the most
liberal system,—individuals of every religious persuasion being
admitted as students, and even as teachers. There is a Natural History
Society and a Mechanics’ Institution, whose labours have been
meritorious. The private establishments for education are also
respectable. The limited means of the Hôtel Dieu are amply compensated
by the more ample income of the Montreal General Hospital, which was
built in 1821-2 by voluntary subscription, at an expense of nearly
6000_l._ It is said to be one of the best regulated institutions of the
kind in America.
The harbour of Montreal does not seem to have received all the attention
which its importance merits. It is somewhat confined, and has no
wharfage, though close to the bank, in front of the town, is a depth of
fifteen feet, sufficient for the largest vessels which ascend to this
point. Its chief disadvantage consists in two shoals, and in the Rapid
of St. Mary’s, about a mile below, which vessels often find it difficult
to stem. Important improvements are now contemplated, and a grant for
the purpose has been even voted by the legislature. The communication
with the opposite sides of the river is carried on by means of ten
ferries, on several of which ply a number of steam-vessels. A wooden
bridge was once constructed from Repentigny, on the northern shore, but
in the spring after its completion it was carried down by the masses of
ice. It is still thought that one of larger span might be constructed
free from that danger.
In considering the rural districts of Montreal, so far as they extend
northward of the St. Lawrence, we shall begin with the tract reaching
down to the province of Trois Rivières. It presents an aspect similar to
that of the whole coast from Quebec, but still more level, and also more
fertile and populous. It forms one uninterrupted succession of
flourishing settlements with villages, on a larger scale than in the
lower districts. Berthier, with 850 inhabitants, on a branch of the St.
Lawrence, called the North Channel, is a great thoroughfare, being
midway between Trois Rivières and Montreal, and supplying a variety of
goods to the neighbouring seigniories. St. Eustache, on the channel
called Jesus, or St. Jean, which seems to be a joint branch of the St.
Lawrence and Ottawa, commands the route to the territories on the latter
river; and, before the recent insurrection, had a considerable traffic,
and a population of fully a thousand. The Isle Jesus, separated from the
main land by this channel, extends parallel to that of Montreal for the
space of twenty-one miles, and is six at its greatest breadth. It is
throughout level, fertile, and highly cultivated; the original forest
being almost entirely extirpated, except for ornament and fuel. In this
quarter, on the small lake of the Two Mountains, are a couple of
villages belonging to the Algonquins and Iroquois, containing altogether
about two hundred houses.
[Illustration: _Timber Slide at “Les Chats.”_
(Upper Canada.)]
The portion of Montreal district on the St. Lawrence extends to Pointe
au Baudet, fifty-five miles above the capital, where it meets the
boundary of Upper Canada. This tract, between the St. Lawrence and the
Ottawa, forms the county of Vaudreuil; it is level, diversified only by
a few gentle hills, and is also very fruitful. Vaudreuil and Rigaud are
only villages; the chief importance being attached to the places which
lie on the river. La Chine is about eight miles above Montreal, where
the navigation is interrupted by the fall of St. Louis, to obviate
which, the fine canal, bearing its name, has been erected, at an expense
of 137,000_l._ This village, which originally received its appellation
from the chimerical idea that it would afford a route to China, stills
forms an important point in the navigation both of the St. Lawrence and
the Ottawa, near whose junction it is situated. About twelve miles
farther up, at the village of Pointe des Cascades, commences a series of
formidable cataracts, which, with little interruption, extend about nine
miles. There is nowhere any high fall; but the stream, filled with
hidden rocks and covered with breakers, dashes like the waves of a
tempestuous ocean. Yet the rafts, the Durham boats, and bateaux
constructed for the purpose, can, under skilful guidance, be safely
piloted through these dangerous rapids. The crews, however, are often
obliged to unload the most bulky part of their cargo, and have it
conveyed by land. Steam navigation, which ceases at one end of this
obstruction, is resumed at the other; and the village of the Cedars,
situated opposite to the rapids of the same name, is the chief depot for
the land-passage. It commands a magnificent view of the foaming billows,
and of the barks which steer through them their perilous course.
The Ottawa province, extending about 350 miles along the northern bank
of that great river, forms, as it were, a very extensive wing, detached
from the district and from Lower Canada, while the upper province
extends opposite to it along the southern bank. Thus the boundary
between these two territories, which at first runs due north, as soon as
it strikes the Ottawa stretches first north-west, and then almost due
west. This extensive tract is as yet by no means occupied or improved in
proportion to its natural capabilities. The numerous obstacles to the
navigation, though now in part removed, have doubtless greatly retarded
its settlement.
[Illustration: _The Lac des Allumettes._]
The upper part of the river beyond the falls and Portage des Allumettes,
is used by the fur-traders, who have a post also in Lake Temiscaming,
more than 350 miles above the junction of the Ottawa with the St.
Lawrence; but this tract has never been surveyed, nor even accurately
described. Up to the Portage, it is regularly frequented by the
lumberers, who find valuable supplies of pine and oak, which they
contrive to float down in rafts, through all obstructions. At the
Allumettes the stream separates into two channels, enclosing an island
fifteen miles long, and forming three small lakes, called the
Allumettes, the Mud, and the Musk Rat. On the latter is one solitary
farm, said to be in a prosperous condition. Eight miles below the
junction of these channels is Fort Coulange, where the Hudson’s Bay
Company have a post, near which is one well-cultivated settlement. Four
or five miles down, another division of the stream forms an island of
about twenty miles long; but the two channels are much impeded by falls
and rapids. The northern, which is the more practicable, has four
portages within a few miles of the port of junction, and there is
another five miles below it. The falls are not above eight or ten feet
high, but they are much broken by masses of rock, and have a very wild
appearance.
[Illustration: _Junction of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence._
(near Cedars.)]
For ten miles downwards the stream is beautifully diversified by wooded
islands, through which it rushes with various degrees of violence. The
banks, great part of the way, consist of white marble, somewhat soft and
coarse; but farther inland, it is believed, a superior description would
be found. At the end of this tract, Bisset’s _chantier_, a solitary
log-house, with a few cleared acres, relieves the eye after the monotony
of these vast solitudes; it affords also a welcome asylum to the fur and
timber traders. Soon after, the view opens upon the magnificent expanse
of the Lake des Chats, about fifteen miles long, studded with
richly-wooded islets. On the south are one or two scattered mansions,
and particularly Kinnell Lodge, the residence of the Highland chieftain,
M^{c}Nab. The northern side appears uninhabited; yet at a little
distance from the beach is the settlement of Clarendon, formed in 1829,
and in 1831 containing 257 inhabitants. The township of Bristol, in
1828, presented only a few poor hovels and 31 settlers, which number
had, in 1831, increased to 96, and in 1836 to not less than 445. At
length the lake suddenly contracts, and the rapids of the Chats, for
three miles, dash in violent eddies, amid a labyrinth of islands. They
terminate in the Falls des Chats, fifteen or sixteen in number,
extending in a curved line across the river, and divided by wooded
islands; but only from sixteen to twenty feet high. The northern coast,
having a rocky and uneven surface, forms the township of Onslow, which
in 1836 had 150 settlers.
[Illustration: _Portage des Chats._]
[Illustration: _Falls of the Ottawa at Les Chats._]
About six miles below this point commences Lake Chaudière, an expanse
eighteen miles long, and, like the former, terminating in rapids,
succeeded by falls. These last, called the Great and Little Chaudière
(Kettle), are on a larger scale, 60 feet high and 212 broad. The
descending torrent, striking on a great circular rock, is thrown up in
clouds of spray, which conceal the bottom of the fall, and often rise in
revolving columns high above its summit. A great portion of the water
being unaccounted for, is believed to escape through subterraneous
channels. Immediately below, where the stream still rolls in rapid
eddies, a bridge has been thrown across. The difficulties of the
undertaking were overcome by dividing the structure into four parts,
consisting of different materials. The broadest span is stretched by
means of a hempen fabric, composed of three-inch cables, forming an
inverted segment of a circle, the lowest point of which is only seven
feet above the torrent. But at no time can it be passed without a
feeling of peril.
[Illustration: _A Shanty on Lake Chaudière._
(Canada)]
[Illustration: _The Owls Head._
(Lake Memphremagog.)]
The township of Onslow is followed by that of Eardley, extending along
Lake Chaudière, and having much excellent land, which is very
imperfectly occupied by 200 persons. Below is Hull, the most flourishing
of all the upper settlements on the Ottawa. Its front towards the river
is level or gently undulating; but it rises behind into hills, some 900
feet high, yet finely wooded, or affording good pasturage. It is watered
by the large river Gatineau, and contains valuable mines of iron and
quarries of marble. This township was surveyed by Philemon Wright, an
American loyalist, who in 1806 obtained a grant of 12,000 acres of it
for himself and his associates. Having, by his pecuniary advances,
secured the exclusive property of the greater portion, as well as of
large tracts in neighbouring townships, he has become a most extensive
landowner. By great exertions he has rendered it extremely flourishing,
and has led the way in all the measures now taking for the improvement
of this fine district. The town of Wright, situated immediately opposite
to the great Rideau Canal, must rapidly grow in importance. Its
population is already considerable, and it contains a neat church and
comfortable hotel. The Chaudière Falls and the bridge immediately adjoin
it.
[Illustration: _Bridge at Bytown, Upper Canada._]
[Illustration: _The Rideau Canal, Bytown._]
[Illustration: _Locks on the Rideau Canal._
(near Bytown)]
From this point to Grenville, sixty miles distant, the Ottawa affords an
uninterrupted navigation for steam vessels. The township of Hull is
succeeded by those of Templeton, Buckingham, and Lochaber. Large tracts
were here granted to different proprietors, who unfortunately have not
taken due pains to increase their value; and the space for new settlers
has been further narrowed by the crown and clergy reserves. Steps,
however, are taking to induce the owners either to improve or renounce
their possessions, and to arrange the preserves on such a principle,
that they may not interrupt the continuity of settlement. The population
of all three, which in 1828 little exceeded 300, has since been greatly
augmented. Buckingham, in 1831, contained 570; Lochaber, 236; Templeton,
in 1836, supposed 390. La Petite Nation, a seigniory early formed, but
as yet only partially settled, acquired a considerable accession of
Irish emigrants, through the exertions of M. Papineau, the seignior, who
erected extensive saw-mills on its eastern border. It has now 826
settlers.
[Illustration: _The Ottawa River at Bytown._]
The township of Grenville, which next follows, may be considered as
commencing the densely-peopled portion of Lower Canada. This is not
owing to its fertility, which is much impeded by the interruption of
hilly ground, connected with the lofty range which traverses the
interior. A branch from this gives rise to the rugged cataract named the
Long Sault, which can be passed only by the most skilful _voyageurs_;
and obstructions continue to occur as far as Point Fortune, where the
river, opening into the Lake of the Two Mountains, becomes united with
the St. Lawrence. To remedy this evil, a fine canal, called the
Grenville, which will be more fully described afterwards, has been
formed. Numerous individuals employed on this work have settled and
taken farms in the township, which by these means had acquired, in 1836,
a population estimated at 1450. Below is Chatham, which, through
exertions commenced in 1806 by Colonel Robertson, Dr. Fraser, and
others, has become one of the most flourishing settlements. Though
traversed by some naked hills, it has extensive level tracts, and the
public road is every where bordered by thriving farms and handsome
dwelling-houses, built of brick. The population in 1831 was 2604.
Chatham Gore, a rising township, has already 473, all Irish protestants.
Here the Ottawa country terminates, Chatham being bounded by Argenteuil,
the first of that range of old French settlements which extend along the
river as far as Quebec.
[Illustration: _Mill on the Rideau River, near Bytown._]
CHAP. II.
QUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
* * * * *
The district of Quebec occupies the whole coast watered by the gulf and
river of St. Lawrence, from the eastern limit of the colony to the mouth
of the river St. Anne, about thirty miles below Trois Rivières; and
thence, in a direct line, to the northern boundary. The greater part of
this extensive section belongs to the uncultivated portion of the
country, and presents a chaos of mountains, lakes, and torrents,
tenanted only by wild beasts and a few wandering Indians. At Cape
Tourment, however, it begins to give place to a tract of a much more
pleasing character; and though still traversed by rugged eminences, it
contains much fertile land, which is described as being at once romantic
and beautiful. On the northern side of the St. Lawrence it is divided
into the counties of Quebec, Montmorency, Orleans, and Port Neuf, and
comprised, in 1831, a population of 56,615.
[Illustration: _Church at Point Levi._]
In the midst of this fine landscape stands Quebec, the capital of
British America, it is seated on a promontory stretching out into the
river, which, by means of it and Point Levi on the opposite side, is
narrowed to about three quarters of a mile, though immediately below it
spreads out into a wide basin. Cape Diamond, the most elevated point of
the city, is reckoned by an eminent traveller 1000 feet high; a proof of
the fallacious nature of such estimates, since the more accurate
observations of Bouchette fixes it at 345. Above a hundred feet lower is
an elevated plain, on which are built the castle and the whole of what
is termed the upper town. Thence a perpendicular steep of above 200 feet
descends to the banks of the St. Lawrence; and in the narrow interval
between this precipice and the river is the lower town, the crowded seat
of business and shipping.
The scenery of Quebec and the surrounding country is described by all
travellers as rivaling in picturesque beauty the most favoured parts of
the earth. The navigator who ascends the St. Lawrence, after he has
passed the Isle of Orleans, and entered the broad basin already
mentioned, where he first comes in sight of this capital, is struck with
intense admiration. He sees its citadel crowning a lofty cliff, its
castle and batteries overhanging a range of formidable steeps, the river
crowded with numerous vessels of every form and size, from the huge
timber-raft to the bark canoe. The fall of Montmorency appears dashing
its white foam almost to the clouds, and on each side is a long range of
fertile and beautiful shore. On ascending Cape Diamond, a still grander
and more extensive panorama bursts upon his view, combining all the
boldness of rude with the richness of cultivated nature. Up and down the
magnificent stream of the St. Lawrence is a reach of more than forty
miles, on which sails almost innumerable are in ceaseless movement.
Below is the beautiful Isle of Orleans, while the opposite coast is
diversified by a great variety of natural and cultivated scenery. To the
north appears the river St. Charles, winding amid fertile valleys and
hills, with villages hanging on their sides, while the prospect is
closed by a bold screen of mountains. Mr. Weld prefers the views from
the upper town, where, though fewer objects are seen, they appear more
distinct and brilliant. This traveller, after visiting a great part of
Europe and America, gives to them a preference over every thing he had
observed on either continent. Mr. M^{c}Gregor considers them similar,
but much superior, to those from the castles of Edinburgh and Stirling.
[Illustration: _The Citadel of Quebec._]
Quebec, from its situation and the care with which it has been
fortified, is a very strong town, and considered the chief bulwark of
British America. On the summit of the lofty headland just described
stands the citadel. The rock consists of gray granite mixed with quartz
crystals, and a species of dark-coloured slate. About forty acres are
here covered with works, carried to the edge of the precipice, and
connected by massive walls and batteries with the other defences of the
place. The main body of the fortress, however, consists of the upper
town, whose fortifications enclose a circuit of about two miles and
three quarters. The face of the hill towards the river is so
precipitous, that it requires only a common wall to protect it, though
the gate leading from the lower town is defended by heavy cannon, and
the steep approach by Mountain-street is enfiladed and flanked by many
guns of large calibre. As the declivity towards the interior and the
Plains of Abraham does not present the same abrupt face, but descends by
successive ridges, it has been strengthened by a series of regular
works, including ditch, covered way, and glacis, with some exterior
defences to obstruct the approach of an enemy. It seems probable,
therefore, that the place would hold out against any attack, till the
approach of the rigorous winter should compel the assailants to raise
the siege.
The upper town, which these fortifications enclose, forms the chief part
of Quebec, and the residence of all the principal inhabitants not
engaged in trade. It is a tolerably handsome old-looking town; the
houses being mostly of stone, partly roofed with tin. The streets are
well paved, and in some instances macadamized, but they are much too
narrow, as the broadest does not exceed thirty-two feet. St.
Louis-street, the almost exclusive residence of the fashionable circle,
has been lately adorned with several elegant mansions. The public
buildings are commodious and substantial, without much pretension to
architectural ornament. The Castle of St. Louis, a large, plain
baronial-looking edifice, forms the dwelling of the Governor. It
comprises a space of four acres, once fortified; but the great extension
of the works has rendered its walls superfluous, and they are allowed to
go to decay. The apartments are large and commodious, and the veranda
commands a magnificent vista up the river. Adjoining is a spacious
structure, once occupied by government offices, now chiefly employed for
public entertainments. The enclosure contains two excellent and
well-cultivated gardens.
Of religious edifices the chief is the Roman Catholic cathedral, being
216 feet long by 180 in breadth, and capable of containing a
congregation of 4000. The interior has a lofty and solemn aspect, but
the outside is heavy and not in very good taste. There are several other
Catholic churches. The English cathedral, though smaller, being only 136
feet long by 75 broad, and in a simple style, is considered extremely
neat. The Scotch church is much inferior. The monastic establishments
are spacious. The Hôtel-Dieu, founded in 1637 by the Duchess
d’Aiguillon, includes a convent, church and courtyard, besides cemetery
and gardens. The range of buildings is extensive, but without any
ornament; and its chief use is as an hospital, in which respect it
affords the greatest benefit to the colony. A prioress and thirty-two
nuns are continually employed in ministering to the sick, with a great
degree of attention and skill: hence Government have been induced to
make occasional grants in addition to the considerable revenues attached
to the establishment. The Ursuline Convent is a neat building, in the
heart of the city, surrounded by fine gardens. It was founded, in 1639,
by Madame de la Peltrie, chiefly for the purposes of education. The
inmates, forty-six in number, observe a somewhat rigid seclusion, but
they instruct, in reading, writing, and needlework, a certain number of
girls, comprehending even Protestants. They are very assiduous in
embroidery and other ornamental works, especially for ecclesiastical
vestments; and the fruits of their industry are often sold at high
prices, which are thrown into the common stock. The spacious monastery
of the Jesuits, 224 feet by 200, surrounded by noble gardens, was
forfeited on the suppression of that order, and at the conquest was
regarded as crown property. It was then converted into a place of
exercise for the troops, and, to the regret of many, its fine trees were
cut down, but the legislature of the province have lately petitioned for
its being restored to its original purpose of education. The large
edifice, called the Seminary, with an extensive domain attached to it,
was founded, in 1663, by M. de Petré, with a view to the instruction of
the Catholic clergy. It is now open to all students of that persuasion,
who are initiated in the different branches of knowledge upon paying the
trifling sum of five shillings annually to defray incidental expenses.
Pupils, indeed, may be boarded as well as taught for 12_l._ 10_s._ a
year.
The buildings employed for public purposes are ample and commodious,
though mostly reared for different objects. The bishop’s palace formed
an extremely elegant residence, with a chapel and many conveniences;
but, in return for an annuity, it was relinquished, and now accommodates
the two branches of the legislature. About the year 1803, a very
handsome house was erected by a joint stock company, in the best
situation the town afforded, with the view of being employed as an
hotel. This plan, however, being abandoned, it was sold to the chief
justice, and is now leased at 500_l._ a year by government, who give it
up to the use of their chief civil departments. It contains also the
museum of the Literary and Historical Society, founded in 1824, and
which, in 1829, was united to that for the promotion of arts and
sciences. The collection is said to be valuable, in regard to mineralogy
and botany. There is a Library also, though only in its infancy. The
artillery barracks form a long range of building, somewhat roughly
constructed, but substantial and convenient. The Armoury contains
equipments for 20,000 men, and, being extremely well arranged, excites
the admiration of strangers.
[Illustration: _The Market Place, Quebec._]
The market is held in an open space, 250 feet long, with a breadth in
some places of about 165. A large building with stalls has been reared
in the centre, though the chief business is still transacted on the open
ground. It is held every day, but Saturday is the busiest. The crowds of
carters, with their wives and families, bringing in the productions of
the surrounding country, their brawlings and vociferations in bad French
and broken English, form a scene of noise and confusion, amid which
appear a few Indian squaws, and the gentlemen of the city and garrison
going round to make purchases. Every kind of provision is abundant and
cheap, except fish, which is less plentiful than might be expected from
the situation. Among public places may also be mentioned the Grand
Parade in front of the castle, surrounded by the most distinguished
edifices; and also the Esplanade, a large level space along the interior
wall, which is the chief theatre for military exercises.
The lower town is a narrow crowded range of buildings, extending along
the base of the precipice. The spot on which it stands is entirely the
creation of human industry; for, originally, the waves at high water
beat the very foot of the rock. Wharfs, however, have been founded, and
carried out into the river, though nowhere farther than 240 yards, and
on these streets have been erected. So limited, indeed, is the space,
that the quarter beyond Cape Diamond communicates with the rest only by
a path cut in many places through the solid rock. This part of Quebec is
compared to the most irregular and confused districts of Edinburgh. It
is connected with the upper town by what is called Mountain-street,
which formerly was not passable for carriages without extreme
difficulty, but has of late been much improved. The Breakneck-stairs, as
they are denominated, are more commodious for foot passengers. Besides
extensive wharfs, the lower town contains the Quebec bank, which, in
addition to apartments for its appropriate purpose, has others for a
fire assurance company, and a subscription library, the most extensive
and valuable in Canada. The government warehouses are all spacious, and
the custom-house having been found inconvenient, the foundation-stone of
a new one was laid in 1831. Amid wharfs lately formed on the flat beach
of the St. Charles, has been erected the exchange building, an elegant
structure, containing a spacious reading room, and several others
devoted to commercial purposes. Projects are in contemplation for
erecting a pier, which would also serve as a bridge across the estuary;
an improvement, which, while it would afford ample space for the
extension of the lower town, would enable the largest vessels and rafts
to lie in security, instead of resorting, as at present, to caves in the
neighbourhood.
On the inland side of the fortress, stretching more than a mile into the
interior, are the large suburbs of St. Roche and St. Johns. They are
built regularly, but chiefly of wood, and with accommodations suited
only to the lower ranks; though of late, indeed, they have been adorned
with many stone houses of a superior class. There is also a smaller
suburb, named St. Louis.
[Illustration: _Timber Depot near Quebec._]
Quebec maintains a constant communication with Point Levi on the
opposite shore, whence it derives a great part of its provisions. A
steam ferry-boat plies every half hour, making the trip in about ten or
fifteen minutes. The navigation also being very properly left free, the
river is constantly covered with numerous canoes, generally hollowed out
from the trunks of trees. The boatmen brave the most tempestuous
weather; and, though often driven several leagues out of their course,
are scarcely ever wrecked. Even in winter, when they must encounter
blocks of ice, with which the channel is encumbered, they contrive with
ropes and iron-pointed poles to raise their vessels upon the surface of
the masses, and drag them along till they find open water on which to
launch it. When this channel is frozen entirely over, the communication
becomes still more easy. A line is marked with beacons placed by the
Grand Voyer, over which hay, firewood, with other bulky articles, are
transported abundantly and at reduced prices. This advantage occurs only
occasionally; but every year the channel between the Isle of Orleans and
the northern coast is frozen over, when the produce of that fertile
spot, reserved for the occasion, finds a ready conveyance. Formerly,
milk and vegetables were brought in a frozen state from distant
quarters, but now these commodities are procured in abundance from the
neighbourhood.
The society of Quebec is more gay and polished than is usual in colonial
cities, where the pursuit of wealth forms too often the sole object of
the inhabitants. Here, besides merchants, there are a number of British
civil and military officers, and a body of French noblesse, living on
their domains. These different classes do not, it is said, always
thoroughly amalgamate. The French, though often superior in manners and
habits, are in some degree disdained by the ruling people, which they do
not well brook. Among the English themselves, the chief test of rank is
an introduction at the castle, without which strangers will find
themselves placed below those whom they would have been classed above in
the mother country. The hotels are good, and, after the fashion of the
United States, the inmates commonly dine at a table d’hôte, which often
affords to the visitor the opportunity of meeting with interesting
characters. He can, however, if he wishes, have private apartments.
The cultivated country northward of Quebec does not extend far, being
closely hemmed in by the range of mountains, and settlement being
obstructed through the very imperfect titles by which alone the land can
be conveyed. Immediately westward, in front of the fortification, are
the Plains of Abraham, memorable as the scene whereon Quebec was gained
by the gallant Wolfe, and whence only it can be successfully assailed.
The summit, indeed, is 330 feet high, which does all but command the
loftiest pinnacle on which Fort Diamond stands. As some security against
this danger, four martello towers have been so placed as to range over
the whole plain. Immediately to the north, a road leads along the
heights to the village of St. Foix, and to the beautifully secluded
dingle of Sillery, about four leagues in length and one in breadth,
formerly the seat of a missionary settlement, which we shall have
occasion again to mention. In the same direction from the suburb of St.
Roch is the Huron village of Lorette, near the banks of the river St.
Charles, which in this neighbourhood forms a beautiful cascade. Onward
still, twelve miles from Quebec, is the lake of the same name, about
four miles long and one broad. It is divided into two parts by
projecting ledges, and the upper one especially is finely diversified by
rocks, woods, bays, hills, and lofty mountains in the distance.
Crossing the St. Charles, and going eastward through the agreeable
village of Beauport, we reach the Falls of Montmorency, one of the most
picturesque objects in all America. They do not, indeed, pour down that
immense flood of water which renders Niagara so wonderful; but the
height is greater, being 240 feet, and the stream descends the whole of
this vast steep in one white sheet of foam. It is received into a vast
basin, whence arise clouds of vapour that display the most brilliant
tints of the rainbow. M. Bouchette imagines that even Switzerland,
though it contains much loftier falls, has none which descend in so
unbroken a mass. He overlooks, we think, the Staubbach, whose stream,
however, is less copious than that of Montmorency. In winter, when the
falling waters congeal into icicles, these accumulate above each other,
till they, on some occasions, swell to an amazing magnitude, and present
a most curious spectacle. About fifty years ago General Haldimand, then
governor of Canada, built a house close to the fall, and commanding a
most advantageous view of it. This was afterwards occupied by the Duke
of Kent, and is now the residence of Mr. Paterson, who has erected upon
the river an extensive range of saw-mills.
CHAP. III.
EASTERN TOWNSHIPS.
* * * * *
The county of Sherbrooke embraces the greater part of the district of
St. Francis, immediately south of Trois Rivières, to which it is often
considered as attached. Being quite beyond the range of the Seigniories,
it has been divided into twenty-nine townships, which include much
valuable land. It presents in general a broken and varied surface,
sometimes rising into mountains clothed with fine timber, is well
watered, yet not so encumbered with swamps as the more western
districts. The only part hitherto settled is that adjoining to Stanstead
in Montreal; but the British American Land Company expect soon to
diffuse culture over the whole. Orford, indeed, the first on this side,
is so mountainous as to be almost unfit for improvement, and contains
only 320 inhabitants. But the west, Ascot, with 1,800, Compton to the
south, with 2,020, and Eaton to the east, with 1,500, are in general
very fine, with an undulating surface, and commodiously watered by
streams well adapted for mills. The first contains Sherbrooke, the
county town, where the commerce of the neighbouring settlements chiefly
centres. It contains about 350 inhabitants, with three places of worship
and a woollen manufactory; and the Land Company have lately made it the
centre of their operations. They have undertaken a new road to Port St.
Francis, whereby the distance will be reduced to seventy miles, and have
likewise established a stage conveyance between the two places, by which
the journey is performed in one day. They have also improved the roads
to Quebec and Montreal, from each of which it is about 100 miles
distant. In Eaton and Compton are rising villages bearing the same
names. South from Eaton, Clifton and Newport, though hilly, contain much
good land; yet in 1831 their united population was only 188.
[Illustration: _Mills at Sherbrooke, on the River Magog._]
[Illustration: _Bridge at Sherbrooke._
(Eastern Townships.)]
The north-western part of the county includes Melbourne, with 1,280
settlers, and Shipton, on the Nicolet, with 1,900. The two are
considered the finest of all the St. Francis townships, and their
population is rapidly increasing. Shipton contains Richmond, a village
of some consequence, and another is rapidly rising in Melbourne. Windsor
and Stoke are represented as possessing almost equal advantages; yet
they have drawn little attention, the former containing only 220
settlers, the latter scarcely any. Brompton, west from these, though
uneven and rocky, has some good tracts, which have drawn 350
inhabitants; while Dudswell, east of Windsor, which has also a
variegated surface, can boast of 342.
The whole south-eastern part of this large county, containing the
townships of Garthby, Strafford, Whitton, Adstock, Marston, Chesham,
Emberton, Hampden, and Bury, with certain portions of Weedon, Singwick,
Ditton, Auckland, and Hereford, composes the great block purchased by
the Land Company. It had not been previously surveyed, and was occupied
only by detached individuals, who had availed themselves of its
neglected situation to squat upon it. Its surface is very varied. The
central part, according to a recent report, appears too mountainous to
invite settlement; but from this height it slopes down in various
directions to the St. Francis, to its tributary the Salmon, and to Lake
Megantie. These lower declivities are richly wooded, and well fitted for
a mixed system of corn and pasture farming. The Salmon river, which
traverses in a northerly direction nearly the whole district, has
beautiful and fertile banks, one part of which, about ten miles long,
from its luxuriant verdure is called “The Meadows.” This river, as well
as numerous little streams which flow into it, is rapid and broken by
falls, unfit for navigation, but convenient for mills. Here the Company
have determined to begin their settlement; and about half a mile from
the principal fall they have founded a village, named Victoria. During
the summer of 1836 several hundred labourers were employed by them in
forming a road between it and Sherbrooke.
[Illustration: _Pass of Bolton, Eastern Townships._]
[Illustration: _Scene on the River St. Francis near Sherbrooke._
(Eastern Townships.)]