CHAPTER XLVI

_THE GILYAKS._

The Gilyaks perfect heathens.--Their habitat, number, and

form.--Diseases, generation, and character.--Habitations.--Living

on fish.--Winter and summer clothing.--Methods of fishing.--Dirty

habits.--Domestic animals.--Boats.--Marriage customs.--Price

of a wife.--Foreign relations.--Fair at Pul.--Manchu

merchants.--Conversation with Gilyaks.--Gilyak and Goldi

languages.--Education.--Superstitions.--Idols and charms.--Method

of bear catching and killing.--Alleged worship of the

bear.--Shaman rites.--Gilyak treatment of the dead.--Romanist

mission to the Gilyaks.--Martyrdom of the missionary.

The Gilyaks were the most thorough heathens I saw in Siberia.[1] I

visited two of their villages--Mukhul and Tyr--saw some of them at

Nikolaefsk almost daily, and met a former starosta of the “white”

village. I conversed also with an American and an Englishman who had

known them for many years; with a French trader among them; with a

telegraph engineer whose business took him through the Gilyak country

and into their houses; and, further, with three Russian priests, who

as missionaries labour among them and the Goldi. From all of these I

gathered more or less information, which has since been supplemented

by reading; yet it must be owned that, as to all save what meets the

eye, we are still very little informed in regard to this people; whilst

of their religion (if they have any) next to nothing is known. Few

Russians learn the Gilyak language, and few Gilyaks learn Russ.

The Gilyak country extends from Tambofsk (or Girin), about 350 miles

south of Nikolaefsk, to the sea-shore near the mouth of the Amur,

as well as over the northern half of the island of Sakhalin. The

subdivisions of the people on the island are, on the west coast the

Smerenkur, and on the east the Tro. To state accurately their numbers

is not easy. When I asked a former starosta of the white village what

was its population, he replied, “We have 60 men and more women, but the

children are not counted.” Mr. Collins passed on the Amur 39 Gilyak

villages, the population of which he estimated at 1,680.

In stature these aborigines are diminutive, usually below rather than

above five feet; their eyes are elongated; the color of the skin tawny,

like that of the Chinese; the hair black, and not luxuriant.[2] The

Gilyaks tie up the hair in a thick tail, but do not, like the Manchu

and Goldi, shave or cut it; hence they were called by the Chinese “long

hairs.”

They do not cause malformations of body by pressure, mutilation, or

incision. Their diseases, in common with the Goldi, are rheumatism,

ophthalmia (produced by hunting in the snow), and syphilis, the last

having been originally introduced by Manchu merchants. In hereditary

cases it is no doubt aggravated by their filthy manner of living. The

Gilyaks resort for cure to the hot springs at Mukhul; but the Goldi,

having no such springs, frequently die of the disease. Insanity is

rare among them. Their women have few children; six is thought a very

large family. They strap their babies in wooden cradles very much like

a butcher’s tray, and suspend them from the roof, as I saw at Mukhul,

where the poor little creature was unable to move hand or foot. I

gathered from a Russian missionary that the Goldi are thought to be

slightly on the increase; but the Gilyaks, from the time the Russians

first knew them, have been dying out.[3]

The winter habitations of the Gilyaks and Goldi are erected in clusters

of from two or three to perhaps a dozen. In the 39 villages mentioned

by Collins he counted 140 houses. The first Gilyak dwelling I entered

was at Mukhul. It was about 40 feet square, built of small posts or

stakes, and plastered with mud. The roof was supported by heavier

posts at the corners, with cross-pieces on which the rafters rested,

and upright timbers supported the covering of larch bark, kept in its

place and from warping in the sun by stones and heavy poles. Among the

cross-beams and joists were nets, skins, dog-sledges, light canoes,

hunting implements, fish-baskets of birch or willow twigs, dried fish,

herbs, and, in fact, the wealth and working tools of the half-dozen

families to whom the house was evidently a comfortable home during a

long and severe winter. Around three sides of the interior was a raised

divan for a seat and dining and sleeping place, with a flue running

underneath, and a fireplace at either end. At the vacant side of the

interior were cooking utensils, pots, kettles, knives, and wooden pans;

and there were hung to dry various skins and fish, entrails, etc. The

house had only this one room, and in the centre was a raised platform,

under which in winter are tied the dogs, and sometimes the family bear.

The windows were of fish-skin, or thin paper, over a lattice. Besides

this kind of dwelling-house for winter, I entered at Tyr a thatched log

building, supported and raised on posts several feet above the ground,

and out of the reach of floods, dogs, and vermin. The verandah was

approached by climbing a notched log. The floor consisted of poles,

between which daylight was visible; and in the centre was a box full of

earth for the fireplace. The building was used probably in winter for

a storehouse; but I found it inhabited as a summer residence. The most

prominent objects, both indoors and out, were large racks and poles,

on which fish were hung to dry; and the combined odour of fish and

fish-oil made it little short of an act of heroism to stay long in a

Gilyak’s house.

These people do not cultivate the land, but subsist almost entirely on

fish. Occasionally they eat the animals taken in the chase, and their

dogs, when they die; while pork and other flesh, with a little millet,

are reserved for festivals.[4]

The favourite winter dress of both Gilyaks and Goldi is made of

dogs’ skins, or of fox or wolf, as being the next warmest. In summer

they wear fish-skin, hence the Chinese called them “Yupitatze,” or

“fish-skin strangers,” though the well-to-do among the Goldi get from

the merchants cotton goods, and sometimes even silk. The fish-skin

is prepared from two kinds of salmon. They strip it off with great

dexterity, and, by beating with a mallet, remove the scales, and so

render it supple. Clothes thus made are waterproof. I saw a travelling

bag, and even the sail of a boat, made of this material. I had hoped,

when leaving Kara, to have found at Ignashina the dress of a Tunguse

shaman, but I was disappointed. I succeeded, however, in purchasing at

Tyr a fish-skin coat. It is handsomely embroidered, and colored on the

back.[5] The Gilyak hats are made of fur for the winter with lappets;

and the Goldi, by sewing together squirrels’ tails, make a round fur

like a “boa,” about five inches in diameter, which, being joined at

the ends, serves either for the neck or to encircle the head like a

coronet. Their summer hat, of depressed conical shape, is made of

birch-tree bark, ornamented on the top by strips of colored wood sewn

in patterns. It has inside a wooden ridge, and is kept in place by a

string under the chin.

[Illustration: SALMON-SKIN COAT AND BIRCH-BARK HAT.]

The occupations of the Gilyaks and Goldi are fishing and hunting. They

use _gill_-nets and seines in some localities, and _scoop_-nets in

others. I more than once saw a fence of poles built at right angles

to the shore, extending 20 or 30 yards into the Amur. This fence is

fish-proof, except in a few places where holes are purposely left

for the salmon, which the natives lie in wait to catch with spears

or hand-nets. When the fish are running well, a canoe can soon be

filled.[6] Ropes and nets they make from hemp and from the common

stinging-nettle, the stalks of which are treated like flax. This

latter material is preferred, and makes cordage equal to that of

civilized manufacture, though sometimes not quite so smooth. I obtained

a specimen of very fine sewing-thread of native manufacture, and

exceedingly strong; but colored threads for embroidery are purchased

from the Russians or the Manchu.

The habits of the Gilyaks are dirty beyond description. They are said

never to wash. A telegraphic engineer told me that he one day gave a

Gilyak a piece of soap, which he put in his mouth, and, after chewing

it to a lather, pronounced “very good.” Both Gilyaks and Goldi have

a liking, reverence, or fear for animals. They formerly domesticated

ermines for catching rats, the high price of cats confining their

possession to the wealthy. On the Lower Amur they find, besides

those mentioned elsewhere, the elk, roebuck, reindeer, and fox; the

racoon-dog, wild boar, and lynx; the polecat, hedgehog, ermine, sable,

and striped squirrel.[7] They are fond also of seeing swallows build

in their houses, and to induce them to do so they fasten small boards

under the roof, by which these birds have access to the house. The

Goldi keep the horned owl (for catching rats), the jay, the hawk, and

the kite--the last for no particular use, unless it be for the sake

of their feathers for arrows.[8] The eagle is sometimes seen fastened

near their houses, and so are the dogs, which, in winter, are their

principal means of locomotion. I saw a large number of them at Mukhul.

A team may consist of any odd number from 7 to 17, a good leader being

worth 50_s._ and an ordinary dog from 8_s._ to 10_s._ The sledge is

made of thin boards five or six feet long, and 18 inches wide, convex

below, but straight on the upper edge. A team of nine dogs draws a man

and 200 pounds of luggage an entire day, each dog receiving a piece

of fish a foot long, and about two inches square, the same in size as

suffices for his master. The mode of summer communication is by boats

made of pitch-fir or cedar. Besides these the Goldi make canoes of

birch-bark. The native sits in the centre, and propels himself with a

double-bladed paddle. The canoes are flat-bottomed, and very easily

upset. When a native sitting in one of them spears a fish, he moves

only his arm, and keeps his body motionless. The larger boats are

usually rowed by women, the lords of creation sitting in the stern to

steer and smoke their long-stemmed, amber-tipped, Chinese pipes. There

is one marked difference, however, between the rowing of the Gilyaks

and Goldi, for whereas the latter, taking two oars, pull them together,

the former pull them alternately--a seemingly clumsy way, but in

practice efficient.

Women occupy a low position among the Gilyaks and Goldi, who are

polygamists. Mr. Ravenstein quotes a statement of Rinso, a Japanese

traveller, that among the Smerenkur Gilyaks polyandry prevails.

Betrothal dates from childhood. The father chooses the bride for his

infant son, a rich Gold paying from £5 to £20 for a girl five years

old. At Mukhul the price of a wife was given me as from £10 to £50,

often paid in silk stuffs and other materials, whilst a telegraph

engineer named as the selling price for a Gilyak bride, from eight to

ten dogs, a sledge, and two cases of brandy, though, if she have “a

good nose,” she fetches rather more. The bride elect is brought into

the house of her future father-in-law, and when the girl is 12 or 13,

and the boy 18, they are married.[9] Should a Gold who has many wives

desire to be baptized the Russian missionaries compel him to elect one,

and be canonically married to the object of his choice; the rest being

sold, or, by a happy arrangement, returned to their respective fathers

at half price. Notwithstanding such matrimonial drawbacks, I heard that

among these interesting people there are no unmarried ladies.

The amusements of the Gilyaks are of the nature of gymnastics, such as

throwing heavy irons and fencing. They begin early to shoot with bow

and arrow, and are good archers. Their foreign relationships are of a

very limited character.[10]

There was formerly at Pul an annual fair, which lasted for 10 days, and

was like that of Nijni Novgorod in miniature.[11] The navigation of the

Amur by the Russians has caused this fair to be discontinued, but the

Manchu merchants still descend the river, though not in such numbers

as formerly, when one voyage sufficed to realize enough for the wants

of a year. I was informed that they fleece the natives sadly, giving

the Gilyaks, for instance, a pint of millet or half a pint of brandy

for a sable-skin; and when the natives are made drunk, then, of course,

skins are bartered for very much less. The Russian barges, fitted like

floating stores, and towed on the river, must have interfered greatly

with the Manchu traders, whose sway, it is to be hoped, is nearly

at an end. The Gilyaks now come to the Russian towns, especially to

Nikolaefsk, and not only sell their fish, but begin to purchase Russian

articles; whereas, for a long time, they gave the preference to goods

of Chinese make.

I met a family of Gilyaks in a shop at Nikolaefsk, with whom I

endeavoured to exchange ideas, through one who spoke a little Russian,

and I thought they seemed a people the lowest in intellect of any I had

met. The company consisted of a father, mother, two daughters, and a

deaf and dumb boy. The man did not know his daughters’ age, nor even

his own, saying that they kept no account. When asked whether he would

sell me his daughter to wife, he replied at first that they did not

sell their girls to Russians, not approving the alliance. When pressed

further, however, he said that she was already sold (she was about 10

years old, and was smoking a pipe), and he added, “I sold her dearly!”

It was difficult, however, in Russ to convey to their minds any but

the simplest ideas. Neither Gilyaks nor Goldi have any written signs.

The missionary living at Khabarofka has translated into Goldi parts of

the Scriptures and the Greek liturgy, using, if I mistake not, Russian

characters. The Goldi language, he told me, was much like the Manchu,

and that, speaking the former, he could make himself understood in

the latter. Both, Mr. Howorth says, are Tunguse languages. M. de la

Brunière writes that Goldi stands to Manchu much as Provençal does to

French or Italian.[12]

The Russians have made some attempts to educate the Gilyaks. When Mr.

Knox visited Mikhailofsky, he found a merchant farmer who was acting

as superintendent of a school opened at the cost of the Government for

the education of Gilyak boys. The copy-books exhibited fair specimens

of penmanship, and on the desks were Æsop’s fables translated into

Russ. Close at hand was a forge, where the boys learned to work, and

a carpenter’s shop, with tools and turning lathe. The school at that

time was in operation ten months a year, and the teacher belonged to

one of the inferior ranks of the Russian clergy. I called on the priest

at Mikhailofsky and inquired about the Gilyaks, but heard nothing of

the existence of the school, and I am under the impression that it is

discontinued. The Russians have two mission schools, however, on the

Lower Amur, attended by 30 children--one at Troitzka for the Goldi,

and another for the Gilyaks at Bolan, near Malmuish. I heard of one

Gilyak boy who had made sufficient progress to qualify him to become a

psalmist, or _dïechok_, in the Russian Church.

Like other heathen tribes, the Gilyaks have many superstitions. They do

not allow fire to be carried in or out of a house, not even in a pipe,

fearing such an act may bring ill luck in hunting or fishing. The same

superstition is found in many parts of Russia. They appear, too, to be

fatalists; for an Englishman at Nikolaefsk told me that if one falls

into the water, the others will not help him out, on the plea that they

would thus be opposing a higher power, who wills that he should perish.

A Russian officer and his family were drowned some time since near the

town, within easy reach of the boats of the Gilyaks, who could have

saved them, but they did not attempt to do so.[13]

The Gilyaks believe in wooden idols or charms as antidotes to disease.

I had practical illustration of this at Tyr, where I wished to buy some

of the little amulets belonging to the head of a household; but he was

at first unwilling to sell them, saying that he had found the wearing

of them very efficacious in sickness. The offer of a silver piece,

however, changed his mind;[14] and he afterwards sold me not only

his own, but those of his baby, one of them like a doll in a sitting

posture; and after I had left the house, he sent after me a fish rudely

cut in wood, and meant for a sturgeon, with a little god seated on his

back. This had been used, apparently, not long before, on a fishing

expedition, for there was gelatine and fresh blood in the mouth of the

fish and the god. Sometimes poles shaped like idols are placed before

the houses. Another kind is carried as companion to the native on his

journeys, whilst some are placed upon the summits of the mountains.

[Illustration: GILYAK IDOLS OR CHARMS]

Other idols are in the form of the tiger, bear, etc., which animals

are closely connected with their superstition, if not their religion.

The tiger is said to be feared much more among the Gilyaks than the

Goldi, and its appearance portends evil. If the remains are found of a

man killed by a tiger, they are buried on the spot without ceremony.

On the other hand, if a cow is found killed by a bear, it is eaten

with great glee and rejoicing. It is said that neither Gilyaks nor

Goldi attempt to kill the tiger. Neither do they hunt the wolf, to

which they attribute an evil influence. With the bear, however, things

are very different. There is in each Gilyak village a bear cage. I

saw them at both Mukhul and Tyr. They speak of the captive as _Mafa_,

that is, “Chief Elder,” and to distinguish him from the tiger, who is

_Mafa sakhle_, that is, “Black Chief.” In hunting the bear they exhibit

great intrepidity. In order not to excite his posthumous revenge, they

do not surprise him, but have a fair stand-up fight. When it is not

desired to secure the animal alive, the natives use a spear, such as I

saw at Krasnoiarsk, the head of which is covered with spikes. It lies

upon the ground, having cord attached to the centre, and held by a

man, the spear-point being towards the bear. As Bruin advances to the

man, the spear-head is raised from the ground, and the beast throws

himself upon it, but finds the chevaux-de-frize a disagreeable object

to embrace. He is then set upon by the huntsmen and killed. It is much

more interesting sport to catch a bear alive. A party of ten men or

more enter the forest provided with straps, muzzle, and a collar with

chain attached. Having discovered the whereabouts of the bear, he is

surrounded, and one of them, jumping upon his back in the twinkling

of an eye, seizes hold of his ears. Another quickly fastens a running

knot round the neck of the beast, and almost suffocates him. He is then

muzzled, the collar passed round his neck, and he is led in triumph to

the village to be put in the cage, and fattened on fish.[15] Bruin is

not imprisoned, however, to be treated like the sacred bulls of Egypt.

On festivals he is brought out, his paws tied, an iron chain put in his

mouth, and he is bound between two fixed poles, an involuntary witness

of the natives frolicking around him. On very grand occasions he takes

a more direct share in the festival by being killed with superstitious

ceremonies.[16] The people then go home, their chiefs staying to cut up

the bear, the flesh of which is distributed to every house, and eaten

with great zest, as food calculated to inspire and bring courage and

luck. The head and paws, however, are treated with great reverence.[17]

These ursine ceremonies have, no doubt, given rise to the statement

that the Gilyaks worship the bear. Mr. Collins goes so far as to

say that they consider the bear an incarnated evil spirit; and the

missionary at Mikhailofsky, in answer to my question, was not sure,

but he thought it quite likely that they worshipped the animal. It is

only proper to say, however, that when I met at Nikolaefsk the former

elder of the White village, and asked him whether it was true that they

worshipped the bear, he denied it, and said that they killed it as we

should do any other animal for a feast; and that each village was bound

in turn to provide a bear, on which occasion other villages assembled

and joined in the banquet. I then inquired what was the religion of

the Gilyaks. He said they had none, but upon being asked to whom they

prayed, he looked up to the skies. He acknowledged that they practised

Shamanism, but added that that was a mystery.

[Illustration: GILYAK FISH-GOD OR IDOL.]

Thus far I have frequently used the word Shamanism, but have deferred

explaining it till I treated of the Gilyaks, some of whose Shamanistic

practices were described to me by an eye-witness--the telegraph

engineer, to whom I have before alluded. The Gilyaks and the Siberian

natives generally believe in the existence of good and bad spirits; but

as the former perform only good, it is not thought necessary to pay

them any attention.[18]

The shamans, or priests, who may be male or female, are regarded as

powerful mediators between the people and the evil spirits. The shaman,

in fact, combines the double functions of doctor and priest. When

a man falls sick, he is supposed to be attacked by an evil spirit,

and the shaman is called to practise exorcism. There is a distinct

spirit for every disease, who must be propitiated in a particular

manner. The performance was thus described to me. The shaman puts

on a huge bearskin cloak, which jingles with bells, pieces of iron,

brass, or anything which will help, when shaken, to make a noise; the

whole sometimes weighing as much as 100 lbs. He begins by singing

in a monotonous murmur, and drinks brandy. Both patient and doctor

are usually decorated with strips of wood or shavings, hanging round

the waist and head. By the side of the patient are placed idols and

brandy. The shaman sits on one side and the audience on the other. He

approaches, drinks more brandy, begins to sing and jingle his bells,

and gives brandy to the spectators. On the table are placed idols,

fish, a squirrel’s skin, millet and brandy, and a dog is tied under

the table. The eatables are offered to the idols, and then distributed

to be consumed by all present. Meanwhile the shaman contorts his

body, and dances like one possessed, and howls to such an extent that

Chinese merchants, who have come out of curiosity, have been known to

flee in very terror. He also beats a tambourine, and sometimes falls

prostrate, as if holding communion with the spirits; and this kind of

thing sometimes goes on for three days and nights, as long, probably,

as provisions and spirits hold out, after which the patient is left to

believe that he will get well; and the shaman receives his fee, which

may be a reindeer, a dog, fish, brandy, or whatever the patient can

afford. The shamans possess great power over their deluded subjects,

though they are said to be somewhat held in check by the belief that,

should they abuse their authority over evil spirits, to the detriment

of a fellow human being, they will hereafter be long and severely

punished. Their punishment is supposed to await them in a nether hell,

dark and damp, filled with gnawing reptiles. A good shaman, however,

who has performed wonderful cures receives, after death, a magnificent

tomb to his memory.

The treatment of the dead among the Gilyaks would seem to vary. Réclus

and Collins say that some tribes burn the dead on funereal pyres, and

build a low frame over the ashes, and that others hang the coffins

on trees, or place them on a scaffolding near the houses. The French

trader at Nikolaefsk told me that in winter they wrap up the dead and

put them in the forked branches of trees, out of the reach of animals,

till the ground is thawed, and then, he supposed, the corpse was

buried. The soul of the Gilyak is supposed to pass at death into his

favourite dog, which is accordingly fed with choice food; and when the

spirit has been prayed by the shamans out of the dog, the animal is

sacrificed upon his master’s grave. The soul is then represented as

passing underground, lighted and guided there by its own sun and moon,

and continuing to lead there, in its spiritual abode, the same manner

of life and pursuits as in the flesh.

The Russians have missionaries among the Gilyaks, but the Greek Church

cannot claim the honour of bringing Christianity first among them.

This belongs to a Roman missionary, M. de la Brunière, who perished

in his endeavour.[19] On April 5th, 1846, he addressed a letter to

the directors of the Seminary for Foreign Missions, telling them of

his plans, and how strongly a Chinese friend tried to dissuade him,

“representing to me the troops of tigers and bears which filled these

deserts; and, whilst relating these things, he sometimes uttered such

vehement cries that my two guides grew pale with horror. Being already

a little accustomed to the figures of Chinese eloquence, I thanked him

for his solicitude, assuring him that the flesh of Europeans had such

a particular flavour that the tigers of Manchuria would not attempt to

fasten their teeth in it.”[20]

Then follows a touching portion, in which he writes:-- “About the 13th

or 15th of May, I will buy, if it please God, a small bark, in which I

may descend the Amur to the sea to visit the ‘long hairs.’ I shall go

alone, because no one dare conduct me. I am well aware how difficult

it will be to avoid the barges of the mandarins who descend the river

from San-sin; but if it is the will of God that I arrive where I design

going, His arm can smooth every obstacle, and guide me there in safety;

and if it please Him that I return, He knows well how to bring me back.”

He went, and at the White village was murdered.[21] I passed the spot a

few hours before reaching Nikolaefsk, and the bay was pointed out where

the missionary was put to death. My fellow-passengers said that De la

Brunière reached the place with a baptized Mongol, whom he sent back on

the day of his arrival, after which he proceeded to show the Gilyaks

his watch, crucifix, spoons, etc.; and that two days after his arrival,

they killed him on a small island where he had taken up his abode.

One of my fellow-passengers was the Russian Lieutenant Yakimoff, who

in 1857, with the Governor of the province, visited the village, and

found the Gilyaks who had committed the murder. They had still in their

possession the watch, crucifix, and spoons, which the Russians bought.

During my stay at Nikolaefsk I met, as I have said, a former starosta

of the White village, who told me that he had heard from his father the

story of the missionary. Thus perished the first man who attempted to

carry Christianity to the Gilyaks. What the Russians are doing among

them I shall refer to when speaking hereafter of their missions to the

neighbouring Goldi.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Their name is variously spelt Gee-laks, Giliaks, Ghiliaks, and

Gilyaks. Living near and resembling in many points the Goldi, the two

tribes, for ethnographical purposes, are sometimes classed together as

branches of the Tunguse family. But M. Réclus is right when, speaking

of the “Giliaks” or “Kilé,” he calls them “frères de ceux qui vivent

dans l’île de Sakhalin et parents de ces mystérieux Aïnos qui sont

l’objet de tant de discussion entre les ethnologistes”; and Mr. Howorth

says that the Ghiliaks, called “Fish-skin Tata” by the Chinese, are no

doubt sophisticated Aïnos, while the Goldi are Tunguses.

[2] As Réclus observes, they have not the open and clear physiognomy of

the majority of the Tunguses, and their little eyes sparkle with a dull

brilliance; they have squat noses, thick lips, prominent cheekbones,

and, he adds, “thick beards”; which last I can hardly confirm, but

would rather say, with Mr. Ravenstein, that the beard is stronger with

them than with the Tunguses, which is not saying much.

[3] Dwelling further from the Manchu than the Amur Tunguses, they are

wilder; and Réclus observes that they have a greater idea of liberty,

acknowledge no master, and are governed only by custom, which regulates

their festivals, and determines their hunting and fishing affairs,

their marriages and burials. They are certainly courageous in the way

they catch and kill the bear, though oddly enough they never willingly

get into water, and do not swim.

[4] They are beginning now to use tea, salt, sugar, and bread; but all

of these seem to have been unknown to them before the advent of the

Russians. I heard it mentioned, as a good trait in their character,

that if a Gilyak receives a piece of bread, after eating a portion he

takes home the remainder as a treat for his family. During my stay at

Mikhailofsky the natives came to barter wild fruit for bread. They

are said to have no stated hours for meals, and knives and forks are

of course unknown to them. Noticing one day some Manchu and Goldi

at a meal, I observed they had boiled millet in basins, which they

raised to the lips, and then whipped the millet into their mouths with

chop-sticks.

[5] The men and women dress very much alike. A number of small metal

pendants about the size of a sixpence round the bottom of the blouse

distinguishes the gentler sex. I purchased, too, at Mukhul some pieces

of embroidery on fish-skin, the workmanship of which is thought good

in England; whilst at Tyr was given me a kind of fish-skin open work

or lace. The blouse of the men is fastened in front, and confined

round the waist by a belt, to which is suspended a number of articles

of daily use. They consist of a large knife, a Chinese pipe, an

iron instrument for cleaning it, steel for striking a light, a bone

for smoothing fish-skins and loosening knots, a bag of fish-skin

for tinder, and a tobacco pouch, a specimen of which last, somewhat

tastefully made of sturgeon’s skin, was given me at Nikolaefsk by the

chief civil authority.

[6] In places I saw square pens of wicker-work fixed, to enclose the

fish after they pass the holes in the fence. For catching sturgeon

they use a circular net, of 5-feet diameter, and shaped like a shallow

bag. One part of the mouth is fitted with corks, and the opposite

with weights of lead or iron. Two canoes in mid-stream hold this net

vertically between them across the current. The sturgeon descending the

river enter the trap, and the fishermen divide the “net proceeds.”

[7] “Cats,” says Mr. Knox, “have a half-religious character, and are

treated with great respect. Since the advent of the Russians, the

supply is very good. Before they came, the Manchu merchants used to

bring only male cats, and those mutilated. The price was sometimes a

hundred roubles for a single mouser, and by curtailing the supply, the

Manchu kept up the market.”

[8] The birds known to them belong generally to the species found in

the same latitudes of Europe and America, but there are some birds

of passage that are natives of Southern Asia, Japan, the Philippine

Islands, and even South Africa and Australia. Seven-tenths of the birds

of the Amur are found in Europe, two-tenths in Siberia, and one-tenth

in regions further south. Some birds belong more properly to America,

such as the Canadian woodcock and the water-ouzel, and there are

several birds common to the east and west coasts of the Pacific. The

number of stationary birds is not great. Maack enumerates 39 species

that dwell here the entire year. The birds of passage generally arrive

in April or May, and leave in September or October. It is a curious

fact that they come later to Nikolaefsk than to the town of Yakutsk,

nine degrees further north. This is due to difference of climate.

[9] Weddings, however, are expensive, for all the relatives expect

to be invited, and they sometimes drink several gallons of Chinese

_khanshin_. The drinking of this, I am told, causes not only

intoxication, but among these people violence akin to madness. It

is sold by weight, and costs tenpence per Russian pound, but its

importation is strictly forbidden by Russian law.

[10] Before the Russian occupation the Manchu came down the river to

collect tribute and dispose of their merchandise. These Mandarins are

charged with abuse of power, and with having made extortionate demands

upon the natives, who hailed the Russians as their liberators. On

the other hand, the Mandarin was supposed to make a small present of

tobacco or silk to every one paying him tribute; and among the Gilyaks

this present appeared to be reckoned of greater value than the tribute

demanded. The Gilyaks, however, living so far off from the Manchu, do

not seem to have been much oppressed by them, nor indeed to have been

very frequently visited. Sakhalin was visited still less often, but I

heard among the Goldi that they decidedly preferred the Russian to the

Manchu rule.

[11] Manchu and Chinese merchants met Japanese from Sakhalin, Tunguses

from the Okhotsk coast, and from the head waters of the Zeya and Amgun.

Besides these were the Orochi, or Orochons, from the mountains east

of the Lower Amur, and Manguns; to say nothing of smaller tribes,

speaking nearly a dozen languages, and conducting business in a

_patois_ of all the dialects. The goods imported were coarsely printed

calicoes, Chinese silk materials, rice and millet, also bracelets,

earrings, tobacco and brandy, cloth, powder, lead, and knives. These

were exchanged for furs, isinglass, and the dried backbones of the

sturgeon--the last being highly prized in Chinese cookery.

[12] I found that the priest was compiling a Goldi lexicon and grammar,

and that, for his linguistic labours, he has received a medal from the

Imperial Geographical Society. I am indebted to him for some of the

words in the following short vocabulary, which will give an idea of

the Manyarg, Manchu, Orochon, and Goldi tongues (which are Tunguse)

compared with the Gilyak and Aïno dialects, which seem to belong to

another family.

_English._ _Manyarg._ _Manchu._ _Orochon._ _Goldi._ _Gilyak._ _Aïno._

One omun emu omu omu niun chine

Two zur juo dhjou dhjour morsh tu

Three ilan ilan ulla ellan chiorch che

Four digin duin dii duyin murch yne

Five sunja tungha tongha torch ashne

Dog inda inda kan sheta

Sable nossa seppha

Fox solaki solli

[13] These aborigines do not bear a favourable character. Schrenk

says that the Gilyaks of the mainland are avaricious and covetous in

their commercial transactions, but that among those of Sakhalin this

propensity seeks satisfaction in theft and robbery. I shall presently

relate a case in which they murdered a missionary apparently for the

sake of getting the little merchandise he possessed.

[14] Sometimes they wear amulets fashioned like the part afflicted. A

lame or injured person carries a small leg of wood, an arm, a hand,

reminding one of the wax and silver arms, legs, hands, and hearts seen

in churches on Roman images, and on the pictures of Russian saints. The

missionary at Tyr gave me, in exchange for tracts, a charm to which is

attached a stone, and also two rough wooden fish gods--one with a tail,

the other without. The Gilyaks use these images or idols also in their

Shaman worship.

[15] When secured as a cub, he is frequently kept for three or four

years. The natives are often seriously wounded in these encounters,

but to this they do not object, since such wounds are thought to be

marks of prowess, and to be killed by a bear is deemed a very happy

death. Most of the writers on the Gilyaks mention this extraordinary

procedure; and I heard it confirmed at Mikhailofsky by the missionary.

[16] The day falls in January of each year, and an Englishman at

Nikolaefsk, who had been an eye-witness of the spectacle, described it

to me thus: “The bear is led from his cage, dragged along and beaten

with sticks, and presented at every house in the village; thus he gets

exasperated to a high degree. He is then led to the river to a hole in

the ice, where they try to make him drink water, and from a platter to

eat food, though only a spoonful, both of which in his excited state he

refuses, and which is precisely what they desire. He is then dragged

back with shouts to the place of sacrifice, where, having been fastened

to a post and allowed to repose awhile, he is shot through the heart

with an arrow.”

[17] Among the Gilyaks the head is kept by the patriarch of the

village, and prayers are said to be offered to it for the space of a

week. I was told at Nikolaefsk that the Gilyaks often bring bears’

skins to sell; but by no chance do they bring, or can they be induced

to bring, a hide with the head or paws attached. The ears, jaw-bones,

skull, and paws are sometimes hung upon trees to ward off evil spirits.

Occasionally the skull is split, and suspended in their houses; and Mr.

Knox observed in a Goldi house that part of one wall was covered with

bear skulls and bones, horse-hair, wooden idols, and pieces of colored

cloth.

[18] Mr. Collins does indeed say that the true God is adored without

the shamans in autumn, and then by the whole community in mass, but I

am unable to confirm this from anything I have read or heard. It would

seem rather that all their efforts are directed to induce the evil

spirits not to act; for these evil spirits are supposed to have power

over hunting, fishing, household affairs, and the health and well-being

of animals and men. Accordingly I inferred that Shamanism, so far as it

can be called a religion, is one of fear, and not of love; that it is

something for times of sorrow, such as death, sickness, and calamity,

and not for occasions of joy or thanksgiving, as a birth or a wedding.

[19] Mr. Ravenstein states that the efforts of the Roman Catholic

missionaries in Manchuria may be said to date from 1838; and in May

1845 M. de la Brunière left Kai Cheu with the intention of seeking

the conversion of the “long-haired” people--that is, the Gilyaks of

the Amur. This was before the Russian occupation of the river, and

at a time when thus to wander, without permission, was contrary to

Chinese law and full of danger, to say nothing of the difficulties of

locomotion.

[20] M. de la Brunière then describes his fatigues, his only food being

millet boiled in water. “You must cut and drag trees, light fires

(necessary against the cold and tigers), prepare your victuals in

wind and rain, and all this in the midst of a swarm of mosquitoes and

gad-flies, who do not suspend their attacks till about 10 or 12 in the

evening. Water and wood were abundant at first, ... but 30 leagues from

the Ussuri, the springs became so scarce that we were compelled to do

like the birds of heaven, and eat the millet raw.”

[21] Four years after, M. Venault was sent to the Lower Amur partly, if

possible, to clear up the fate of De la Brunière. On arriving at what

is now called the White village, he found no difficulty in ascertaining

how matters had gone. M. de la Brunière, it seemed, was preparing his

meal in a small bay, when ten men, attracted by the prospect of booty

from the strange priest, went towards him, armed with bows and pikes.

Having hit him with several arrows, seven of them struck him with their

pikes, and the last stroke fractured his skull and proved mortal. This

act consummated, the assassins divided the spoil.

Through Siberia · 第 46 / 54 章