[Illustration: GOLD-MINE AND WASHING-HOUSE AT KARA.]
THROUGH SIBERIA
BY HENRY LANSDELL, D.D., F.R.G.S.
With Illustrations and Maps
_FIFTH EDITION_
London
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON
188, FLEET STREET
1883
[_All Rights Reserved._]
I inscribe these pages
TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE
HUGH McCALMONT, EARL CAIRNS, P.C., LL.D.,
CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF DUBLIN, AND LATE
LORD HIGH CHANCELLOR OF ENGLAND, IN GRATEFUL
APPRECIATION OF OFFICIAL KINDNESS
MORE THAN ONCE ACCORDED ME
IN FURTHERING MY VISITS
TO THE PRISONS OF
EUROPE
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.
Being about to leave England on a projected tour through Russian
Central Asia, and the second edition of “Through Siberia” having
become nearly exhausted, I find myself called upon to make preparation
for a third and cheaper issue. It is only necessary to say that the
subject-matter of the third and second editions is alike, the third
edition, however, being bound in one volume, and printed on thinner
paper, with somewhat fewer illustrations.
H. L.
BLACKHEATH,
_21st June, 1882_.
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
Being unexpectedly but agreeably obliged to prepare a second edition
before the day for the public appearance of the first, I can do little
more than express my gratitude for the favour with which my book has
been received, and repeat what has already been printed. The kind and
too favourable reviews that have thus far come under my notice seem to
call for little remark but of thanks. One journal, however--the _St.
James’s Gazette_--has stated, on the authority of a Russian informant,
that ‘official orders were sent before me to the prisons to make
things wear a favourable aspect for my visit.’ I venture therefore
here to repeat what I wrote to the Editor (but which he did not think
fit to publish), that if his Russian informant, or any other, thinks
that I have been duped or misinformed, I am perfectly ready to be
questioned, and shall be happy to discuss the question in the public
press, provided only that my opponent give facts, dates, names, and
places, and do not hide behind general statements and impersonalities.
My own conviction is that in the overwhelming majority of cases, at all
events, I saw Siberian prison affairs in their normal condition.
With the exception, then, of a corrected note which appeared on
page 37, vol. i., a slight re-arrangement of the bibliography and
appendices, a few verbal alterations, and a _new and improved index_,
this second edition is the same as the first.
H. L.
THE GROVE, BLACKHEATH,
_20th February, 1882_.
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION.
This book is a traveller’s story, enriched from the writings of
others. In San Francisco an American Bishop said to me, “I hope, sir,
you will give us your experience, for Siberia is a country of which
we know so little.” Accordingly, on my return, two courses presented
themselves--either to confine myself to an account of my personal
adventures, or to supplement them from published information, and
describe the country as a whole. I chose the latter course, and the
result is in the reader’s hands. At the end of the work will be
found a list of books consulted, to the authors of many of which I
must acknowledge myself indebted for much scientific and technical
information.
My speciality in Siberia was the visitation of its prisons and penal
institutions, considered, however, not so much from an economic or
administrative as from a philanthropic and religious point of view.
Much has been written concerning them that is very unsatisfactory, and
some things that are absolutely false. One author published “My Exile
in Siberia” who never went there. “Escapes” and so-called “Revelations”
of Siberia have been written by others who were banished only a few
days’ journey beyond the Urals; whereas it is only east of the Baikal
that the severest forms of exile life begin. None, so far as I know,
who have escaped or been released from the mines, have written the tale
of what they endured, and very few authors have been in a position even
to describe what the penal mines are like.
It has been comparatively easy, therefore, in England for writers to
exaggerate on this subject almost as they pleased, because scarcely any
one could contradict them. Comparatively few travellers cross Northern
Asia to the Amur. I doubt if any _English_ author has preceded me.
Probably also I was the first foreigner ever allowed to go through the
Siberian prisons and mines. Perhaps none before have asked permission.
That I obtained such an authorization astonished my friends, though the
open manner in which the letter was granted seemed to show that the
authorities had nothing to hide. A master-key was put into my hand that
opened every door. I went where I would, and almost when I would; and
on no single occasion was admission refused, though often applied for
at a moment’s notice. Statistics also were freely given me; but this
was “not so writ in the bond.” An afterthought, in Siberia, emboldened
me to ask for them in various places, and they were usually furnished
then and there. All these are displayed before the reader. I have
exaggerated nothing,--kept nothing back.
I speak thus in case I should be thought to have written with a bias;
but I had no reason to be other than impartial. Of politics I know
next to nothing, and so was not prejudiced in this direction. Nor had
I anything to gain by withholding, or to fear from telling, the whole
of the truth. I did not travel as the agent or representative of any
religious body. Two societies, indeed, at my request, made me grants
of books, and a generous friend provided the cost of travel; but the
expedition was a private one, and implicated none but myself. I could
not, of course, see matters as a prisoner would; but I wish to state
that, having visited prisons in nearly every country of Europe, I have
given here an unprejudiced statement of what I saw and heard in the
prisons and mines of Siberia
That a foreigner, flying across Europe and Asia, as I did, is
exceedingly likely to receive false impressions and form erroneous
conclusions, is obvious to every one, and I claim no exemption; for
though I have journeyed in Russia, from Archangel to Mount Ararat, yet
my experience is that of a traveller only, and not of a resident. I
do not even speak Russ, but have been dependent on interpreters, or
information received in French. I trust, therefore, that no one may be
misled by taking my testimony for more than it is worth. I have tried
to be accurate, and that is all I can say.
Perhaps I may add, however, that my proof-sheets have been revised by
Russian friends among others, and that most of the chapters concerning
exile life have been submitted not only to a Russian Inspector of
Prisons, but also to released political exiles who have worked in
the mines. The latter endorse what I have said, and (with reference
to the chapters on “Exiles,” “Political Prisoners,” and the “Mines
of Nertchinsk”) the Inspector has done me the compliment to write,
“What you say is so perfectly correct that your book may be taken as a
standard, even by Russian authorities.” I have good hope, therefore,
that in this feature of my work, at all events, I have avoided
misrepresentation.
On scientific subjects I cannot speak with authority; but I have
been allowed to submit the proof-sheets to various friends, who
have kindly read them with an eye to their particular studies. My
thanks, accordingly, are due to Sir Andrew Ramsay, LL.D., F.R.S.,
Director-General of the Geological Survey of the United Kingdom; to Mr.
James Glaisher, F.R.S., formerly of the meteorological department of
the Greenwich Observatory; and to Mr. Trelawney Saunders, Geographer
to the India Office. Mr. Henry Seebohm, F.L.S., F.Z.S., has read
such paragraphs as relate to zoology and ornithology; and Mr. Henry
Howorth, F.S.A., author of “The History of the Mongols,” has afforded
suggestions from his extensive reading in Siberian ethnology. I am also
indebted for information concerning many Sclavonic words, manners, and
customs to Mrs. Cattley, formerly of Petersburg, and a great traveller
in Russia; and to the Rev. C. Slegg Ward, M.A., Vicar of Wootton St.
Lawrence, for literary help. It is difficult to restrain my pen from
mentioning others--the scores of friends who gave me introductions, the
scores of others who received and honoured them--but if I once begin in
this direction, where shall I end? I can only say that, for hospitality
to strangers, Siberia carries the palm before every country in which I
have travelled, and that from the day I crossed the Russian frontier
till I reached the Pacific I met with nothing but kindness.
H. L.
THE GROVE, BLACKHEATH,
_20th December, 1881_.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
_INTRODUCTORY._
PAGE
Object of the journey.--Interest in prisons.--Visitation of
prisons in 1874.--Distribution of religious literature in
Russia.--Tour round Bothnian Gulf, 1876.--To Russo-Turkish
war, 1877.--To Archangel, 1878.--Origin of Siberian
journey.--Alba Hellman and her correspondence.--The way
opened.--Projected efforts of usefulness.--Books to be
distributed.--Final resolve 1
CHAPTER II.
_ACROSS EUROPE._
Departure for Petersburg.--Official receptions.--Minister of the
Interior.--Metropolitan of Moscow.--Introductions.--Books
forwarded.--Departure for Moscow.--Nijni Novgorod.--Site
of the fair.--Joined by interpreter.--Kasan.--Bulgarian
antiquities.--Neighbouring heathen.--Idolatrous objects
and practices.--Departure from Kasan.--The Volga and the
Kama.--Arrival at Perm 9
CHAPTER III.
_THE URALS TO TIUMEN._
A new railway.--The Ural range.--Outlook into Russia in Asia.--Nijni
Tagil.--The Demidoff mines and hospital.--May weather.--Russian
railways.--Arrival at Ekaterineburg.--An orphanage.--Precious
stones.--Orenburg shawls.--Tarantass and luggage.--Departure for
Tiumen.--The exiles.--Visits to the authorities 17
CHAPTER IV.
_THE EXILES._
Reasons for and history of deportation to Siberia.--Number
of exiles.--Their education.--Crimes.--Sentences.--Loss
of rights.--Privileges.--Proportion of hard-labour
convicts.--Where located.--Release.--Escapes.--Causes and
methods of flight.--Transport.--A convoy of exiles.--Moscow
charity.--Conveyance to Perm and Tiumen.--Their
distribution.--Order of march.--Sea-borne exiles.--Mistakes
of English newspapers.--Conveyance of political exiles 31
CHAPTER V.
_FROM TIUMEN TO TOBOLSK._
General remarks on
Siberia.--Limits.--Area.--Temperature.--Divisions.--Roads.--
Ethnography.--Language.--Posting to Tobolsk.--Floods.--Spring
roads.--Villages of Tatars.--Their history.--Characteristics.--
Costume.--Occupation.--Worship.--Language 49
CHAPTER VI.
_SIBERIAN PRISONS._
Old Finnish prisons.--Model Petersburg
prison.--Officers.--Contraband importations.--Russian
prisons of six kinds.--Siberian prisons of three kinds:
their number, location, structure, furniture.--Prisoners:
their classification.--Kansk statistics.--Method of
trial.--Remands.--Exchanging names and punishments 63
CHAPTER VII.
_SIBERIAN PRISONS (continued)._
Charitable committees.--Prison food.--Clothing.--Work.--Hard
labour.--Exercise.--Amusements.--Privileges.--Intercourse
with friends.--Punishments.--Capital
punishment.--Corporal punishment.--Irons.--Prison
discipline.--Flogging.--Exceptional severities 77
CHAPTER VIII.
_THE OBI._
Dimensions of river.--Its tributaries.--Province
of Tobolsk.--Geographical
features.--Population.--Voguls.--Samoyedes.--Intemperance.--
Commercial prospects of Obi.--Siberian produce.--Corn
land.--Timber.--Cost of provisions.--Carriage.--Discoveries
of Wiggins.--Followed by Nordenskiöld.--Ship-building at
Tiumen.--Navigation of Kara Sea.--Books on basin of Obi 96
CHAPTER IX.
_TOBOLSK._
Early history of Siberia.--Yermak.--Conquest of the
Tatars.--Tobolsk the first capital.--The exiled bell.--Our
visit to the Governor.--Hard-labour prisons.--Interior
arrangements.--“_Travaux forcés._”--Testimony of
prisoners.--Books presented 109
CHAPTER X.
_FROM TOBOLSK TO TOMSK._
The steamer
_Beljetchenko_.--Fellow-passengers.--Card-playing.--Cost
of provisions.--Inspection of convicts’ barge.--An exile
fellow-passenger.--Obi navigation.--The Ostjaks.--Their
fisheries.--Feats of archery.--Marriage customs 117
CHAPTER XI.
_TOMSK._
The province of Tomsk.--The city of Tomsk.--Visit to the
Governor.--The prison.--Institution for prisoners’
children.--A Lutheran minister.--Finnish colonies in
Siberia.--Their pastoral care.--Dissuaded from visiting
Minusinsk.--Distribution of Finnish books.--_Détour_ to
Barnaul 127
CHAPTER XII.
_SIBERIAN POSTING._
Travelling by post-horses.--The courier, crown, and ordinary
_podorojna_.--The tarantass.--Packing.--Harness.--
Horses.--Roads.--Pains and penalties.--Crossing
rivers.--Cost.--Speed.--Post-houses.--Meat and drink 134
CHAPTER XIII.
_FROM TOMSK SOUTHWARDS._
Application for horses.--Effect of Petersburg letter.--A false
start.--A horse killed.--Attempted cooking.--Siberian
weather.--Meteorology.--Scenery.--Trees, plants, and
flowers.--An elementary school.--Education in Western Siberia 143
CHAPTER XIV.
_BARNAUL._
Situation of town.--Cemetery.--Burial of the dead.--The Emperor’s
usine.--Visit to Mr. Clark.--Visits to hospital and prison.--A
recently-enacted tragedy.--Crime of the district.--Smelting
of silver and gold.--Price of land and provisions.--Return to
Tomsk 152
CHAPTER XV.
_THE SIBERIAN CHURCH._
The Russian Church.--Geographical area.--History, doctrines,
schisms.--Ecclesiastical divisions of Siberia.--Church
committees.--Russian Church services.--Picture
worship.--Vestments.--Liturgy.--Ordination.--Baptism.--
Marriage.--Minor services 161
CHAPTER XVI.
_THE SIBERIAN CHURCH (continued)._
Parochial clergy.--Their emoluments.--Duties.--Official
registers.--Discipline.--Morality.--Status.--Our
clerical visits.--Monastic clergy.--The Metropolitan
Macarius.--Fasting.--General view of Russian Church.--Compared
with Roman.--Teaching respecting Holy Scripture and salvation
by faith.--Needs of Russian Church 171
CHAPTER XVII.
_FROM TOMSK TO KRASNOIARSK._
Book-distribution in Western Siberia.--Departure
from Tomsk.--Postbells.--How to sit in
posting.--Sleeping.--Boundary of Western Siberia.--Wild
and domesticated animals.--Birds.--Scenery.--Roadside
villages.--Peasants’ houses.--Hammering up “the
Prodigal Son.”--Siberian towns.--Houses of upper
classes.--Misadventures.--A hospitable merchant.--Frontier
of Eastern Siberia 183
CHAPTER XVIII.
_THE YENESEI._
Sources of the river.--Discoveries of Wiggins and
Nordenskiöld.--The Yenesei at Krasnoiarsk.--Current,
width, depth.--Breaking up of ice.--The Yeneseisk
province.--Geography.--Meteorology.--Forests.--Timber.--Fish
of Yenesei.--Birds.--Russian population.--Navigation.--Corn
and cattle.--Towns.--A Scoptsi village.--Salubrity of
climate.--The aborigines.--Ethnology.--Tunguses.--Fur-bearing
animals.--Methods of hunting.--Minerals 196
CHAPTER XIX.
_A VISIT TO A GOLD-MINE._
Gold in Siberia.--Where found.--Gold-hunting.--A
prospecting party.--Thawing the ground.--Subterranean
passages.--Hardships.--Mining calculations.--Building of
barracks.--Preparations for our visit.--Costumes.--Road
through “the forest primeval.”--Luxuriant
vegetation.--Crossing mountains.--Arrival at mine.--Labour
of miners.--Gold-washing machine.--Government
inspection.--Wages.--Hours of labour.--Miners’
food.--Pay-day.--Drink and its follies.--Miners’
fortunes.--Mines of Eastern Siberia.--Return to Krasnoiarsk 211
CHAPTER XX.
_FROM KRASNOIARSK TO ALEXANDREFFSKY._
Situation of Krasnoiarsk.--Our hotel.--Dr. Peacock.--Visit
to prison, hospital, and madhouse.--Cathedral.--Drive
in “Rotten Row.”--Shoeing horses.--Bible affairs at
Krasnoiarsk.--Consignment to Governor for provinces of
Yeneseisk and Yakutsk.--Departure from Krasnoiarsk.--Change
of scenery.--Kansk _Okrug_.--Our arrival anticipated.--Visit
to Ispravnik.--Statistics of crime.--The Protopope of
Kansk.--Parochial information.--Demand for Scriptures.--A
travelling companion.--Further posting help.--Butterflies
and mosquitoes.--Nijni Udinsk.--Telma factory.--A
_détour_.--Alexandreffsky 227
CHAPTER XXI.
_THE ALEXANDREFFSKY CENTRAL PRISON._
Prison wards.--Punishment cells.--Communication with
friends.--Nationalities of prisoners.--Their
work.--Food.--Distribution of books.--Our
reception.--Lunch.--Departure.--Runaway horses.--An
accident.--Left alone.--Return to post-house 245
CHAPTER XXII.
_A CITY ON FIRE._
Approach to Irkutsk.--The city entered.--Remains of a fire.--A
second fire.--Our flight.--Crossing of the Angara.--A
refuge.--Inhabitants fleeing.--Salvage.--Firemen’s
efforts.--Spread of the catastrophe.--Return to lodging.--A
chapel saved.--Spectacle of fire at night.--Reflections 253
CHAPTER XXIII.
_IRKUTSK._
Province of Irkutsk.--The capital.--Its markets.--Telegraph
officers.--Visit to the Governor.--Ruins of the
city.--Attempt to establish a Bible depôt.--Supposed
incendiarism.--Benevolent arrangements of
authorities.--Wife-beating.--Servility of Russian
peasants.--Visit to a rich merchant.--Ecclesiastical
affairs.--Visit to the acting Governor-General.--The
prisons.--A prisoner’s view of them.--Prison
committee.--Distribution of books.--Visit to inspector of
schools.--Change of route 264
CHAPTER XXIV.
_THE LENA._
History of Russian invasion.--Former travellers to
Okhotsk.--Cochrane, Erman, and Hill.--Down the Lena to
Yakutsk.--Prevalence of goitre.--The Upper Lena and its
tributaries.--The Lower Lena.--Discoveries of mammoths.--New
Siberian islands.--Nordenskiöld’s passage 281
CHAPTER XXV.
_YAKUTSK._
The province of Yakutsk.--Rivers.--Minerals.--The town of
Yakutsk.--Its temperature.--Inhabitants.--The
Yukaghirs.--The Yakutes.--Their dwellings.--Food.--Dress.--
Products.--Occupations.--Industries.--Language.--Religion.--
Route from Yakutsk to Okhotsk.--Reindeer riding.--Summer
journey.--Treatment of horses 294
CHAPTER XXVI.
_ACROSS LAKE BAIKAL TO TROITZKOSAVSK._
Leaving Irkutsk.--The Angara.--Approach to the Baikal: its shores
and fish.--Steaming across.--Seizing post-horses.--Arrival
at Verchne Udinsk.--Smuggling at the prison.--Arrival at
Selenginsk.--English mission to Buriats.--English graves.--Old
scholars.--Story of the mission.--Journey to Troitzkosavsk 309
CHAPTER XXVII.
_THE SIBERIAN FRONTIER AT KIAKHTA._
Hospitable reception.--History of Kiakhta.--Treaties between
Russians and Chinese.--Early trading.--Decline of
commerce.--The tea trade.--Troitzkosavsk church.--Miraculous
ikons.--Kiakhta church.--Russian churches in
general.--Bells.--Valuable ikons.--Climate of Kiakhta.--Drive
to Ust-Keran 322
CHAPTER XXVIII.
_THE MONGOLIAN FRONTIER AT MAIMATCHIN._
Outlook into Mongolia.--Town of Maimatchin:
without women.--Visit to a Chinese
merchant.--Refreshments.--Attendants.--Purchases.--Tea
bricks for coin.--The town.--Buddhist temple.--Chinese
malefactors.--Their punishments.--Chinese
dinner.-Food.--Intoxicating drinks.--Route to
Peking.--Travellers.-Modes of conveyance.--Manners of the
desert.--Postal service 337
CHAPTER XXIX.
_FROM KIAKHTA TO CHITA._
Farewell ceremonies.--Writing home of changed
plans.--Caravans.--An iron foundry.--Buriat
yemstchiks.--Methods of driving.--Salutations.--Insignificant
post-stations.--Visit to a missionary to the Buriats.--Russian
missions in Japan.--A remarkable meeting.--The Yablonoi
mountains.--Chita.--Visit to the Governor and prison 353
CHAPTER XXX.
_THE BURIATS._
Country of the Buriats.--Their physiognomy
and costume.--Habitations.--Mongol
yourts.--Hospitality.--Fuel.--Possessions in
cattle.--Character of Buriats.--Their religions.--Buddhist
Buriats.--The soul of Buddha.--The lamas.--Their celibacy,
classification, employments, disabilities.--Buddhist
doctrines.--A prayer cylinder.--Christian Buriats.--English
missions.--Reports of English travellers.--Results of Russian
missions.--Distribution of Buriat Scriptures 364
CHAPTER XXXI.
_SIBERIAN POLITICAL PRISONERS._
The Za-Baikal, a natural prison.--“Decembrists” of
1825.--Misapprehensions respecting political prisoners.--The
“Story of Elizabeth.”--Vindictive foreign writers.--Palpable
misstatements.--Misleading information.--Dostoyeffsky’s
“Buried Alive.”--Rosen’s “Russian Conspirators.”--Present
condition of political prisoners.--Testimony of
Poles.--Treatment of an attempted regicide.--The number
of “politicals” exaggerated.--Calculations concerning
them.--Their mode of transport.--Paucity of statistics
accounted for 377
CHAPTER XXXII.
_FROM CHITA TO NERTCHINSK._
The Trans-Baikal province.--Books deposited with the
Governor--Specimen letter of consignment.--Prisons and
hospitals.--Governor’s distribution of books.--Satisfactory
results.--Journey from Chita.--Buriat _Obos_.--Russian
emigrants.--Salutations.--Approach to Nertchinsk.--Its
mineral treasures 400
CHAPTER XXXIII.
_THE SILVER AND (SO-CALLED) QUICKSILVER MINES OF NERTCHINSK._
The supposed quicksilver-mines.--Inadequate evidence of their
existence.--Unsupported statements of writers.--Not
known to Anglo-Siberians.--Silver-mines, perhaps,
intended.--Deleterious fumes a myth.--Questionable
allegations regarding silver-mines.--Sensational
writers.--Misstatements exposed.--Testimony of Collins and
other eye-witnesses.--Accounts of ex-prisoners and Lutheran
pastor.--Nertchinsk Zavod and work in the mines.--Condition
of affairs in 1866.--Present state of things.--The Nemesis
of exaggeration 408
CHAPTER XXXIV.
_FROM NERTCHINSK TO STRETINSK._
Nertchinsk.--Its climate and history.--Scene of a
Russo-Chinese treaty.--Appearance of the town.--Visit to
the authorities.--Dinner with a rich merchant.--Siberian
table customs.--Poverty of travelling fare.--Fine arts in
Siberia.--Painting and photography.--Journey from Nertchinsk 425
CHAPTER XXXV.
_FROM STRETINSK TO UST-KARA._
Arrival at Stretinsk.--Recorded distances from Petersburg.--Taking
in a passenger.--Travelling allowance to officers.--Parting
with interpreter.--Farewell to tarantass.--Starting
to Kara.--The world before me.--Previous writers on
the Amur.--Gliding down the Shilka.--Talking by dumb
signs.--My Cossack attendant.--Taking an oar.--How Russians
sleep.--Arrival at Ust-Kara 436
CHAPTER XXXVI.
_THE PENAL COLONY OF KARA._
Evil reputation of Kara.--Testimony from Siberians and
exiles.--My own experience.--The Commandant.--Our evening
drive.--Hospitable reception.--Statistics respecting
prisoners: their crimes, sentences, and settlement as
“exiles.”--The Amurski prison.--Cossack barracks.--The upper
prison.--Convicts’ food.--Prisoners’ private laws.--Middle
Kara prison.--Mohammedan forçats.--Sunday labour.--Convict
clothing.--Guard-house.--A genuine political prisoner.--The
church.--Lack of preaching.--House of the Commandant 445
CHAPTER XXXVII.
_THE CONVICT MINES OF KARA._
Gold-mines not underground.--Hours of labour.--Visit to a
mine.--Punishments.--Branding abolished.--Miners marching
off.--Statistics respecting runaways.--Women criminals at
mines.--A new building for expected politicals.--Superannuated
forçats.--The hospitals.--“Birching” and its effects.--Kara
in 1859.--Improvements effected by Colonel Kononovitch.--A
children’s home.--Return to the gold-mine.--Comparison of
Siberian and English convicts.--Distribution of books 462
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
_THE SHILKA._
Departure from Kara.--Parting hospitality.--Ust-Kara
police-master.--The head waters of the Shilka.--Collins’s
descent of Ingoda.--The Onon.--Formation of
Shilka.--Scenery below Stretinsk.--Shilkinsk.--Hospitality
of police-master.--Non-arrival of steamer.--Efforts
at conversation.--Steaming down the river.--Shilka
scenery.--Tributaries from north and south.--Arrival at
confluence of Shilka and Argun 480
CHAPTER XXXIX.
_THE HISTORY OF THE AMUR._
Divisible into three periods.--Period of Cossack
plunder.--Poyarkof.--Khabarof.--Stepanof.--Discovery and
occupation of Shilka.--Chernigovsky.--Period of conflict with
Chinese.--Russo-Chinese treaty of 1686.--Russian mission at
Peking.--Affairs on the Amur during Russian exclusion.--Third
historic period from 1847.--Preparatory operations on Lower
Amur.--Muravieff’s descent of the river, 1854.--Influence
of the Crimean war.--Colonization of Lower Amur.--Further
colonization, 1857.--Chinese protests.--Influence of
Anglo-Chinese war.--The Sea Coast erected into a Russian
province.--Renewed difficulties with China.--Treaty of
1860.--Review of Russian occupation 489
CHAPTER XL.
_THE UPPER AMUR._
Formation of the Amur.--Chinese boundary.--Our
steamer.--Captain and passengers.--Natives of Upper
Amur.--Orochons.--Manyargs.--Their hunting year.--Our
journey.--Run aground.--Table provisions.--Notes on
cooking.--Scenery.--Albazin.--Cliff of Tsagayan 503
CHAPTER XLI.
_BLAGOVESTCHENSK._
Blagovestchensk and Russian missions.--Particulars of
orthodox missionary society.--Visit to telegraph
station.--Seminary for training priests.--Salaries of
Russian clergy.--Blagovestchensk prison.--Leafy
barracks.--View of the town.--Molokan inhabitants 518
CHAPTER XLII.
_THE MIDDLE AMUR._
Departure from Blagovestchensk.--The Zeya.--Climate.--A
bath under difficulties.--Occupation of time.--Russian
tea-drinking.--The Bureya river and mountains.--Delightful
scenery.--Ekaterino-Nicolsk.--Distribution of books and
Scriptures.--Reception and recognition of passengers.--Prairie
scenery.--Shooting a dog.--The Sungari.--Chinese
exclusiveness.--Course of the river.--The Amur province.--An
excise officer.--Remarks on alcohol.--Teetotalism in Russia 531
CHAPTER XLIII.
_THE MANCHURIAN FRONTIER._
Manchuria and its aboriginal inhabitants.--Their history.--The
Daurians.--The Manchu.--Visit to Sakhalin-Ula-Hotun.--Manchu
dress.--Music.--Conveyances.--Articles of commerce.--Treatment
of dead.--Boats.--Methods of fishing.--Archery.--Town of
Aigun.--Buildings.--Temples.--Difficulties of access 547
CHAPTER XLIV.
_THE PRIMORSK OR SEA-COAST PROVINCE._
Fuller treatment of this province.--Boundaries and
dimensions.--Mountains, bays, and rivers.--Climate.--Fauna and
flora.--Aboriginal and Russian population.--Government.--Food
products.--Imports.--Taxes.--Civil government.--Health of the
people 560
CHAPTER XLV.
_THE LOWER AMUR._
My plans altered.--A serious alternative.--Khabarofka.--Fur
trade.--Post-office and bank.--A Siberian garden.--Started for
Nikolaefsk.--The Lower Amur.--Its affluents.--Fish.--A Russian
advocate.--Goldi Christians.--Sophiisk.--A procureur.--Lake
Kizi.--Mariinsk.--Snow mountains.--Mikhailofsky.--Hot-springs
of Mukhal.--Beautiful scenery.--Tyr monuments.--The “white
village.”--Mouth of the Amur 574
CHAPTER XLVI.
_THE GILYAKS._
The Gilyaks perfect heathens.--Their habitat,
number, and form.--Diseases, generation, and
character.--Habitations.--Living on fish.--Winter
and summer clothing.--Methods of fishing.--Dirty
habits.--Domestic animals.--Boats.--Marriage customs.--Price
of a wife.--Foreign relations.--Fair at Pul.--Manchu
merchants.--Conversation with Gilyaks.--Gilyak and
Goldi languages.--Education.--Superstitions.--Idols and
charms.--Method of bear catching and killing.--Alleged
worship of the bear.--Shaman rites.--Gilyak treatment of the
dead.--Romanist mission to the Gilyaks.--Martyrdom of the
missionary 593
CHAPTER XLVII.
_NIKOLAEFSK._
My arrival.--Visit to prisons and hospitals.--Health
statistics.--Siberian hospitals in general.--A Sunday
service arranged.--Visits to inhabitants.--Russian customs,
superstitions, and amusements.--Dancing.--Nikolaefsk town,
arsenal, and commerce.--Mr. Emery.--Russian bribery.--Cost of
provisions and labour.--Plans for return 614
CHAPTER XLVIII.
_KAMCHATKA._
The Upper Primorsk.--History of north-eastern maritime
discovery.--Russian navigation of Siberian
ocean.--Explorations in the North Pacific.--Wiggins and
Nordenskiöld.--Exploration of Siberia by land.--Travellers in
Upper Primorsk.--The Sea of Okhotsk and fisheries.--Bush’s
journey.--Okhotsk and its natives.--Kamchatka.--Its
volcanoes, earthquakes, springs.--Garden produce
and animals.--Kamchatdales.--Their number and
character.--The Koriaks.--Their warlike spirit.--Houses
of settled and wandering Koriaks.--Food.--Herds of
deer.--Marriage customs.--Putting sick and aged to
death.--The Chukchees.--Their habitat.--Diminution of fur
animals.--Vegetation.--Intoxicating plants.--Kennan’s
tales of the Chukchees.--Nordenskiöld stranded on Chukchee
coast.--Onkelon antiquities 630
CHAPTER XLIX.
_THE ISLAND OF SAKHALIN._
Geographical description.--Meteorology.--Flora and
fauna.--Population.--Cultivation.--Mineral
products.--Coal-mine at Dui and penal settlement.--Prison
statistics.--Flogging.--Desperate criminals.--Complaints of
prison food.--Prison labour.--Difficulties of escape.--Prison
executive and alleged abuses.--General opinion on Siberian
prisons.--Comparison of Siberian and English convicts 648
CHAPTER L.
_THE USSURI AND SUNGACHA._
Ussuri little known.--From Nikolaefsk to Khabarofka.--Proposal to
move the port.--Military forces in the province.--Departure
for Kamen Ruiboloff.--The Ussuri.--Visit to a parish
priest.--The native Goldi.--Missions of the Russian
Church.--Pay of missionaries.--Head waters of
Ussuri.--The Sungacha.--Cossacks.--Visit to a Cossack
stanitza.--Chinese houses.--Lake Khanka.--Arrival at Kamen
Ruiboloff.--Anticipated wedding 665
CHAPTER LI.
_LAKE KHANKA TO THE COAST._
Difficulties in prospect.--Appearance of the
country.--Vegetation.--Garden produce.--Medicinal
plants.--Ginseng.--Country almost uninhabited.--A serious
loss and its recovery.--Remarkable landscape.--Distribution
of animals in Siberia.--Little-Russian settlers.--Peasant
affairs and taxes.--Travelling by night.--Arrival at
Rasdolnoi.--Clerical functions in request.--War in the
post-house.--Summary of tract distribution.--Russia
as a field for Christian effort.--The Suifun.--Cheap
travelling.--Baptizing children.--Arrival at Vladivostock 688
CHAPTER LII.
_VLADIVOSTOCK._
Situation of town.--Lodged with Captain de Vries.--Chinese
labourers.--Chinese convicts.--Coreans.--Inhabitants of
Vladivostock.--Presented at the Governor’s house.--Admiral
Erdmann’s improvements.--Visit to barracks.--Boys’
high school.--Education in Russia, its cost and
method.--Vladivostock Girls’ Institute; and Free
School.--Statistics of crime.--Telegraph companies.--Sunday
services.--Protestantism in Siberia.--Village of
exiles.--General remarks on exiles.--Preparations for
departure 711
CHAPTER LIII.
_RUSSIANS AFLOAT._
Reflections on leaving Siberia.--Departure.--The Russian
navy.--The _Djiguitt_.--Seamen’s food, clothing,
work.--Relation between officers and men.--Received as
captain’s guest.--Progress.--Hospital arrangements.--Arrival
at Hakodate.--Divine service.--Religious professions
of seamen.--Inspection of ship.--A “strong
gale.”--Russian sentiments towards Englishmen.--Cause of
dislike.--Misrepresentations by English press.--Russian
writings.--Transhipped to American steamer.--Arrivals at San
Francisco and London 732
APPENDICES.
A. The History of the Russian Church 751
B. The Doctrines of the Russian, Roman, and English Churches 754
C. The Schisms of the Russian Church 756
D. The Discoveries of Wiggins and Nordenskiöld 761
E. The Early Exploration of Siberia by sea and land 766
F. The Author’s Itinerary round the World 770
G. Bibliography of Siberia, and List of Works consulted 772
INDEX 779
OBSERVANDA.
In proper names the letters should be pronounced as follows:--_A_ as
in f_a_ther; _e_ as in th_e_re; _i_ as in rav_i_ne; _o_ as in g_o_;
_u_ as in l_u_nar; and the diphthongs _ai_ and _ei_ as in h_i_de. The
consonants are pronounced as in English, save that _kh_ is guttural, as
in the Scotch lo_ch_.
The dates are given according to the English reckoning, being in
advance of the Russian by twelve days.
All temperatures are expressed according to the scale of Fahrenheit.
The ordinary paper rouble is reckoned at two shillings, its value at
the time of the Author’s visit; but before the Russo-Turkish war its
value was half-a-crown and upwards.
English weights and measures are to be understood unless otherwise
stated.
The Russian Arshin equals 28 inches English
” Sajen ” 7 feet ”
” Verst ” ⅔ mile ”
” Pound ” 14.43 ounces ”
” Pud (or Pood) ” 36 lbs. ”
” Rouble (or 100 Kopecks) ” 2 shillings ”
” _Silver_ rouble ” 3 ” ”
[Illustration: MAP OF SIBERIA, SHEWING THE AUTHORS ROUTE--3000 MILES BY
LAND AND 5000 BY WATER.]
THROUGH SIBERIA.
CHAPTER I.
_INTRODUCTORY._
Object of the journey.--Interest in prisons.--Visitation of prisons
in 1874.--Distribution of religious literature in Russia.--Tour
round Bothnian Gulf, 1876.--To Russo-Turkish war, 1877.--To
Archangel, 1878.--Origin of Siberian journey.--Alba Hellman
and her correspondence.--The way opened.--Projected efforts of
usefulness.--Books to be distributed.--Final resolve.
The object that took me through Siberia was of a philanthropic and
religious character; and before proceeding to a general description
of the country, I should like to acquaint the reader with the
circumstances that led me there. My interest in prisons dates from
a visit to Newgate jail in 1867, followed by others to prisons at
Winchester, Portland, Millbank, Dover, York, Exeter, Geneva, Guernsey,
and Edinburgh: but this interest amounted to little more than
curiosity. Two years later it took a practical turn. My summer holidays
up to that time had been spent on the principle, “Play when you play,
and work when you work,”--a proverb that is doubtless true, but which I
had not found entirely satisfactory. I was minded, therefore, to test
another saying, that “the way to be happy is to be useful,” and in 1874
was casting about as to how the principle could be applied to a tour of
five weeks through seven countries, not one of whose tongues I could
speak, when the visitation of continental prisons suggested itself,
and the distribution therein and elsewhere of suitable literature. The
Committee of the Religious Tract Society generously placed a supply at
my disposal, and in company with the Rev. J. P. Hobson, then curate of
Greenwich, I started for Russia _viâ_ Denmark, Sweden, and Finland,
intending to return through Poland, Austria, and Prussia. We saw the
prisons of Copenhagen and Stockholm, but they were well supplied with
books, and needed not our help; whereas, in the old castles used as
prisons at Åbo and Wiborg, our papers were thankfully accepted, and
in Russia quite a surprise awaited us. Without reason, I had feared
that perhaps the orthodox Russians would decline to receive books from
Protestants, as do the Romans. We found, however, that they would
accept such books as had been approved by the censor, and accordingly
we sent 2,000 pamphlets into the prisons of Petersburg, reserving a
third thousand for giving away on the railway to Moscow, not knowing
at that time that for such open distribution a permission is needed.
I can never forget the surprise of the people and their desire to get
the books. The peasants came and kissed our hands; the railway guards
directed to us the attention of the station-masters, who came to
receive our gifts. Priests took the books, and approved them; and many
who offered money in return were puzzled to see it declined. Our stock
was soon exhausted, and I determined some day to make a tour in Russia
to distribute on a larger scale.
In 1876 my holiday weeks were spent in a journey across Norway and
Sweden and round the Gulf of Bothnia. Twelve thousand tracts were
distributed, and visits made to prisons and hospitals, those of Finland
being found inadequately supplied with both Scriptures and other
books. On my return I brought this before the Committee of the Bible
Society, and asked for a copy of the Scriptures for every room in every
prison, and for each bed in every hospital, in all Finland. This they
kindly granted, so far as to offer to bear half the expense with the
Finnish Bible Society; and the plan, after some delay, was carried out.
Scriptures were also to be provided, at my request, for the Finnish
institutions for the deaf and dumb, and for the saloons of the steamers
plying on the Scandinavian coasts.
In 1877 Roumania and the seat of the Russo-Turkish war was chosen
for my holiday resort, with a view to being useful in the Russian
hospitals. But I was too early, and my vacation too short; so that
after visiting, on the outward trip, some of the prisons of Austria
and Hungary, I returned, doing the like through Servia, Sclavonia,
the Tyrol, Basle, and Paris. The mass of the prisoners were Roman
Catholics, for whom I do not remember a single case in which the
Scriptures were provided. Some of the authorities, however, said they
would accept them if sent, and I therefore asked the Bible Society
again for a liberal grant for the prisoners, the sick, and others of
the countries through which I had passed. They were willing to make the
grant, but the local agents reported many difficulties, and the result
fell short of my expectations.
In 1878, therefore, I resolved upon a change of tactics, to take my
ammunition with me, and carry out my cherished scheme for Russia.
Considerable difficulties, however, lay in the way. An Englishman,
unable to speak the language, going into the interior of Russia to
distribute books and pamphlets, in the year of the Berlin Congress,
towards the close of the war, would certainly not have been safe. No
amount of official papers and permissions would have kept him out of
the clutches of ignorant officials. It seemed necessary, therefore, to
take an interpreter; and as the transport of heavy luggage in Russia
is slow, and my books would accompany me as personal baggage, it was
clear that the cost would be a great increase to holiday expenses.
A generous friend, however, at this juncture, as also subsequently,
came to my aid; and in the month of June I trotted out of Petersburg
with about two waggonloads of books, a companion, an interpreter, and
a sufficiency of official letters. We went by rail through Moscow and
Jaroslav to Vologda, and thence by steamer on the Suchona and Dwina
to Archangel. We distributed everywhere,--to priests and people, in
prisons, hospitals, and monasteries, and created such a stir in some
of the small towns that people besieged our rooms by day, and even by
night. Our travel was necessarily so quick that we could not always
inform the police beforehand of what we were doing, and more than once
they came (as was their duty) to arrest us; but our encounters always
ended amicably, and we reached home after a happy six weeks’ tour,
extending over 5,500 miles, in the course of which we distributed
25,000 Scriptures and tracts. These experiences in some measure
prepared me for my longer journey in 1879, the origin of which was
somewhat remarkable.
When travelling round the Gulf of Bothnia in 1876, my steamer
unexpectedly stayed for a day at a town on the coast of Finland. I
was anxious to visit the hospital, and was inquiring about a horse,
when a passenger said she had friends in the town, who, she thought,
could render assistance. I went with her; and that simple incident
may be said to have originated my subsequent tour through the prisons
of Siberia; for it was followed by correspondence with a lady member
of the family to whom I was introduced, Miss Alba Hellman, who began
by modestly asking me, chiefly because I was an Englishman and the
only one she knew, whether I could not do something for the welfare
of the Siberian exiles. I confess that at first I thought this the
most extraordinary request ever put to me, and it seemed too great an
undertaking even to be thought of. Already immersed in work, regular
and self-imposed, I had no time or means for such an undertaking; and
if the money were forthcoming, who would go? Another question, too,
arose: Would the Russian Government allow anything to be done?
The case of my Finnish correspondent, however, was a touching one.
When in health she had been wont, like Elizabeth Fry, but on a smaller
scale, to spend part of her time in visiting prisoners. Now, acute
heart disease forbade such visits, and even compelled her to sleep in
a sitting posture, so that for 2,068 nights, or nearly seven years,
she never went to bed. My coming to Finland, visiting prisons, had
awakened memories of her former work, and she set herself, after my
departure, to write me a letter in English. She had had only a few
lessons in this language when a girl; but, possessing a Swedish and
English New Testament in parallel columns, and a dictionary, she set
herself, with an industry and patience almost incredible, to find
clauses and expressions that conveyed her meaning in Swedish, and then
to copy their English equivalents, her letter ending, for example,
“Here are many faults, but I pray you have me excused.” The force of
her language, however, was unmistakable, thus: “You (English) have sent
missionarys round the all world, to China, Persia, Palestina, Africa,
the Islands of Sandwich, to many places of the Continent of Europe; but
to the great, great Siberia, where so much is to do, you not have sent
missionarys. Have you not a Morrison, a Moffatt, for Siberia? Pastor
Lansdell, go you yourself to Siberia!”
What, then, could I say to this? To have spoken the real language of my
thoughts would have been cruel. So I thought to shelve the question by
returning an oracular answer, that “the letter contained much that was
interesting, and that I would think the matter over.” My correspondent,
however, was not to be discouraged, and wrote another letter, giving
further information concerning Siberia, and drawing a gloomy picture
of the religious condition of the natives and exiles. Others followed,
and at last I began to think that, after all, the project was not quite
so unfeasible as it first appeared to be. My generous friend, who
had read the letters and was interested, both urged me on and again
offered help; and when it was determined that I should leave a clerical
appointment I had held for ten easy and happy years, I resolved, in
the absence of another suitable post presenting itself, at once to
“rough it” for a summer in the wilds of Asiatic Russia.
But what could I do towards the object my friend had at heart?
Ignorance of the Russian language and of the Siberian dialects would
prevent my speaking to the people. I might, however, visit prisons,
hospitals, and mines, and at least provide them with the Scriptures
in various languages, and with books, as in previous holidays. When
travelling in the Russian interior in 1878, persons were met with who
had never seen a complete New Testament, and I reasoned that a general
distribution of such books in Siberia, whether by sale or gift, would
be doubly useful, besides which I meant to be on the look-out for such
other opportunities of usefulness as might present themselves and be
allowed me.
But what were the books you were to give away? and how is it that you
were allowed to distribute them? are questions that have often been
asked with surprise. An answer to the first will prepare the way for
the second. The Scriptures included the four Gospels, the Book of
Psalms, and the New Testament. These were for the most part in Russian;
but there were a few copies in Polish, French, German, and Tatar, with
certain portions of the Old Testament for the Buriats in Mongolian, and
for the Jews in Hebrew. Besides these Scriptures there were copies of
the _Rooski Rabotchi_, an adapted reprint in Russian of the _British
Workman_, full of pictures, and well suited to the masses; also a large
well-executed engraving, with the story written around, of the parable
of the Prodigal Son, together with broad-sheets suitable for hospital
walls, and thousands of Russian tracts. The Scriptures were printed
for the Bible Society by the Holy Synod, and the tracts had passed
the censor’s hands. All was therefore in order, and before going to
Archangel I had received a permanent legitimation to distribute, duly
endorsed by the police.
So far, therefore, things in England looked promising for Siberia, but
the way thither was by no means clear. In April, 1879, the plague was
said to be raging in Russia, and towards the end of that month came
one of the attempts on the late Emperor’s life. This led to Petersburg
being placed in a state of siege, and few of my friends felicitated me
on my intention to go thither. Some thought I should not obtain the
required permissions for Siberia, and advised accordingly. But having
always before succeeded through the courtesy of the Russians in getting
what I asked, I resolved to be deaf as an adder to everything short of
a denial at the capital from the lips of the authorities, and, being
thus resolved, I set out on my journey.