A Medieval Girl School {166}

This last summer I revisited Oropa, near Biella, to see what

connection I could find between the Oropa chapels and those at

Varallo. I will take this opportunity of describing the chapels at

Oropa, and more especially the remarkable fossil, or petrified girl

school, commonly known as the Dimora, or Sojourn of the Virgin Mary

in the Temple.

If I do not take these works so seriously as the reader may expect,

let me beg him, before he blames me, to go to Oropa and see the

originals for himself. Have the good people of Oropa themselves

taken them very seriously? Are we in an atmosphere where we need be

at much pains to speak with bated breath? We, as is well known,

love to take even our pleasures sadly; the Italians take even their

sadness allegramente, and combine devotion with amusement in a

manner that we shall do well to study if not imitate. For this best

agrees with what we gather to have been the custom of Christ

himself, who, indeed, never speaks of austerity but to condemn it.

If Christianity is to be a living faith, it must penetrate a man's

whole life, so that he can no more rid himself of it than he can of

his flesh and bones or of his breathing. The Christianity that can

be taken up and laid down as if it were a watch or a book is

Christianity in name only. The true Christian can no more part from

Christ in mirth than in sorrow. And, after all, what is the essence

of Christianity? What is the kernel of the nut? Surely common

sense and cheerfulness, with unflinching opposition to the

charlatanisms and Pharisaisms of a man's own times. The essence of

Christianity lies neither in dogma, nor yet in abnormally holy life,

but in faith in an unseen world, in doing one's duty, in speaking

the truth, in finding the true life rather in others than in

oneself, and in the certain hope that he who loses his life on these

behalfs finds more than he has lost. What can Agnosticism do

against such Christianity as this? I should be shocked if anything

I had ever written or shall ever write should seem to make light of

these things. I should be shocked also if _I_ did not know how to

be amused with things that amiable people obviously intended to be

amusing.

The reader may need to be reminded that Oropa is among the somewhat

infrequent sanctuaries at which the Madonna and infant Christ are

not white, but black. I shall return to this peculiarity of Oropa

later on, but will leave it for the present. For the general

characteristics of the place I must refer the reader to my book Alps

and Sanctuaries. I propose to confine myself here to the ten or a

dozen chapels containing life-sized terra-cotta figures, painted up

to nature, that form one of the main features of the place. At a

first glance, perhaps, all these chapels will seem uninteresting; I

venture to think, however, that some, if not most of them, though

falling a good deal short of the best work at Varallo and Crea, are

still in their own way of considerable importance. The first chapel

with which we need concern ourselves is numbered 4, and shows the

Conception of the Virgin Mary. It represents St. Anne as kneeling

before a terrific dragon or, as the Italians call it, "insect,"

about the size of a Crystal Palace pleiosaur. This "insect" is

supposed to have just had its head badly crushed by St. Anne, who

seems to be begging its pardon. The text "Ipsa conteret caput tuum"

is written outside the chapel. The figures have no artistic

interest. As regards dragons being called insects, the reader may

perhaps remember that the island of S. Giulio, in the Lago d'Orta,

was infested with insetti, which S. Giulio destroyed, and which

appear, in a fresco underneath the church on the island, to have

been monstrous and ferocious dragons; but I cannot remember whether

their bodies are divided into three sections, and whether or no they

have exactly six legs--without which, I am told, they cannot be true

insects.

The fifth chapel represents the Birth of the Virgin. Having

obtained permission to go inside it, I found the date 1715 cut large

and deep on the back of one figure before baking, and I imagine that

this date covers the whole. There is a Queen Anne feeling

throughout the composition, and if we were told that the sculptor

and Francis Bird, sculptor of the statue in front of St. Paul's

Cathedral, had studied under the same master, we could very well

believe it. The apartment in which the Virgin was born is spacious,

and in striking contrast to the one in which she herself gave birth

to the Redeemer. St. Anne occupies the centre of the composition,

in an enormous bed; on her right there is a lady of the George

Cruikshank style of beauty, and on the left an older person. Both

are gesticulating and impressing upon St. Anne the enormous

obligation she has just conferred upon mankind; they seem also to be

imploring her not to overtax her strength, but, strange to say, they

are giving her neither flowers nor anything to eat and drink. I

know no other birth of the Virgin in which St. Anne wants so little

keeping up.

I have explained in my book Ex Voto, but should perhaps repeat here,

that the distinguishing characteristic of the Birth of the Virgin,

as rendered by Valsesian artists, is that St. Anne always has eggs

immediately after the infant is born, and usually a good deal more,

whereas the Madonna never has anything to eat or drink. The eggs

are in accordance with a custom that still prevails among the

peasant classes in the Valsesia, where women on giving birth to a

child generally are given a sabaglione--an egg beaten up with a

little wine, or rum, and sugar. East of Milan the Virgin's mother

does not have eggs, and I suppose, from the absence of the eggs at

Oropa, that the custom above referred to does not prevail in the

Biellese district. The Virgin also is invariably washed. St. John

the Baptist, when he is born at all, which is not very often, is

also washed; but I have not observed that St. Elizabeth has anything

like the attention paid her that is given to St. Anne. What,

however, is wanting here at Oropa in meat and drink is made up in

Cupids; they swarm like flies on the walls, clouds, cornices, and

capitals of columns.

Against the right-hand wall are two lady-helps, each warming a towel

at a glowing fire, to be ready against the baby should come out of

its bath; while in the right-hand foreground we have the levatrice,

who having discharged her task, and being now so disposed, has

removed the bottle from the chimney-piece, and put it near some

bread, fruit and a chicken, over which she is about to discuss the

confinement with two other gossips. The levatrice is a very

characteristic figure, but the best in the chapel is the one of the

head-nurse, near the middle of the composition; she has now the

infant in full charge, and is showing it to St. Joachim, with an

expression as though she were telling him that her husband was a

merry man. I am afraid Shakespeare was dead before the sculptor was

born, otherwise I should have felt certain that he had drawn

Juliet's nurse from this figure. As for the little Virgin herself,

I believe her to be a fine boy of about ten months old. Viewing the

work as a whole, if I only felt more sure what artistic merit really

is, I should say that, though the chapel cannot be rated very highly

from some standpoints, there are others from which it may be praised

warmly enough. It is innocent of anatomy-worship, free from

affectation or swagger, and not devoid of a good deal of homely

naivete. It can no more be compared with Tabachetti or Donatello

than Hogarth can with Rembrandt or Giovanni Bellini; but as it does

not transcend the limitations of its age, so neither is it wanting

in whatever merits that age possessed; and there is no age without

merits of some kind. There is no inscription saying who made the

figures, but tradition gives them to Pietro Aureggio Termine, of

Biella, commonly called Aureggio. This is confirmed by their strong

resemblance to those in the Dimora Chapel, in which there is an

inscription that names Aureggio as the sculptor.

The sixth chapel deals with the Presentation of the Virgin in the

Temple. The Virgin is very small, but it must be remembered that

she is only seven years old and she is not nearly so small as she is

at Crea, where though a life-sized figure is intended, the head is

hardly bigger than an apple. She is rushing up the steps with open

arms towards the High Priest, who is standing at the top. For her

it is nothing alarming; it is the High Priest who appears

frightened; but it will all come right in time. The Virgin seems to

be saying, "Why, don't you know me? I'm the Virgin Mary." But the

High Priest does not feel so sure about that, and will make further

inquiries. The scene, which comprises some twenty figures, is

animated enough, and though it hardly kindles enthusiasm, still does

not fail to please. It looks as though of somewhat older date than

the Birth of the Virgin chapel, and I should say shows more signs of

direct Valsesian influence. In Marocco's book about Oropa it is

ascribed to Aureggio, but I find it difficult to accept this.

The seventh, and in many respects most interesting chapel at Oropa,

shows what is in reality a medieval Italian girl school, as nearly

like the thing itself as the artist could make it; we are expected,

however, to see in this the high-class kind of Girton College for

young gentlewomen that was attached to the Temple at Jerusalem,

under the direction of the Chief Priest's wife, or some one of his

near female relatives. Here all well-to-do Jewish young women

completed their education, and here accordingly we find the Virgin,

whose parents desired she should shine in every accomplishment, and

enjoy all the advantages their ample means commanded.

I have met with no traces of the Virgin during the years between her

Presentation in the Temple and her becoming head girl at Temple

College. These years, we may be assured, can hardly have been other

than eventful; but incidents, or bits of life, are like living

forms--it is only here and there, as by rare chance, that one of

them gets arrested and fossilized; the greater number disappear like

the greater number of antediluvian molluscs, and no one can say why

one of these flies, as it were, of life should get preserved in

amber more than another. Talk, indeed, about luck and cunning; what

a grain of sand as against a hundredweight is cunning's share here

as against luck's. What moment could be more humdrum and unworthy

of special record than the one chosen by the artist for the chapel

we are considering? Why should this one get arrested in its flight

and made immortal when so many worthier ones have perished? Yet

preserved it assuredly is; it is as though some fairy's wand had

struck the medieval Miss Pinkerton, Amelia Sedley, and others who do

duty instead of the Hebrew originals. It has locked them up as

sleeping beauties, whose charms all may look upon. Surely the hours

are like the women grinding at the mill--the one is taken and the

other left, and none can give the reason more than he can say why

Gallio should have won immortality by caring for none of "these

things."

It seems to me, moreover, that fairies have changed their practice

now in the matter of sleeping beauties, much as shopkeepers have

done in Regent Street. Formerly the shopkeeper used to shut up his

goods behind strong shutters, so that no one might see them after

closing hours. Now he leaves everything open to the eye and turns

the gas on. So the fairies, who used to lock up their sleeping

beauties in impenetrable thickets, now leave them in the most public

places they can find, as knowing that they will there most certainly

escape notice. Look at De Hooghe; look at The Pilgrim's Progress,

or even Shakespeare himself--how long they slept unawakened, though

they were in broad daylight and on the public thoroughfares all the

time. Look at Tabachetti, and the masterpieces he left at Varallo.

His figures there are exposed to the gaze of every passer-by; yet

who heeds them? Who, save a very few, even know of their existence?

Look again at Gaudenzio Ferrari, or the "Danse des Paysans," by

Holbein, to which I ventured to call attention in the Universal

Review. No, no; if a thing be in Central Africa, it is the glory of

this age to find it out; so the fairies think it safer to conceal

their proteges under a show of openness; for the schoolmaster is

much abroad, and there is no hedge so thick or so thorny as the

dulness of culture.

It may be, again, that ever so many years hence, when Mr. Darwin's

earth-worms shall have buried Oropa hundreds of feet deep, someone

sinking a well or making a railway-cutting will unearth these

chapels, and will believe them to have been houses, and to contain

the exuviae of the living forms that tenanted them. In the

meantime, however, let us return to a consideration of the chapel as

it may now be seen by anyone who cares to pass that way.

The work consists of about forty figures in all, not counting

Cupids, and is divided into four main divisions. First, there is

the large public sitting-room or drawing-room of the College, where

the elder young ladies are engaged in various elegant employments.

Three, at a table to the left, are making a mitre for the Bishop, as

may be seen from the model on the table. Some are merely spinning

or about to spin. One young lady, sitting rather apart from the

others, is doing an elaborate piece of needlework at a tambour-frame

near the window; others are making lace or slippers, probably for

the new curate; another is struggling with a letter, or perhaps a

theme, which seems to be giving her a good deal of trouble, but

which, when done, will, I am sure, be beautiful. One dear little

girl is simply reading Paul and Virginia underneath the window, and

is so concealed that I hardly think she can be seen from the outside

at all, though from inside she is delightful; it was with great

regret that I could not get her into any photograph. One most

amiable young woman has got a child's head on her lap, the child

having played itself to sleep. All are industriously and agreeably

employed in some way or other; all are plump; all are nice-looking;

there is not one Becky Sharp in the whole school; on the contrary,

as in "Pious Orgies," all is pious--or sub-pious--and all, if not

great, is at least eminently respectable. One feels that St.

Joachim and St. Anne could not have chosen a school more

judiciously, and that if one had a daughter oneself this is exactly

where one would wish to place her. If there is a fault of any kind

in the arrangements, it is that they do not keep cats enough. The

place is overrun with mice, though what these can find to eat I know

not. It occurs to me also that the young ladies might be kept a

little more free of spiders' webs; but in all these chapels, bats,

mice, and spiders are troublesome.

Off the main drawing-room on the side facing the window there is a

dais, which is approached by a large raised semicircular step,

higher than the rest of the floor, but lower than the dais itself.

The dais is, of course, reserved for the venerable Lady Principal

and the under-mistresses, one of whom, by the way, is a little more

mondaine than might have been expected, and is admiring herself in a

looking-glass--unless, indeed, she is only looking to see if there

is a spot of ink on her face. The Lady Principal is seated near a

table, on which lie some books in expensive bindings, which I

imagine to have been presented to her by the parents of pupils who

were leaving school. One has given her a photographic album;

another a large scrapbook, for illustrations of all kinds; a third

volume has red edges, and is presumably of a devotional character.

If I dared venture another criticism, I should say it would be

better not to keep the ink-pot on the top of these books. The Lady

Principal is being read to by the monitress for the week, whose duty

it was to recite selected passages from the most approved Hebrew

writers; she appears to be a good deal outraged, possibly at the

faulty intonation of the reader, which she has long tried vainly to

correct; or perhaps she has been hearing of the atrocious way in

which her forefathers had treated the prophets, and is explaining to

the young ladies how impossible it would be, in their own more

enlightened age, for a prophet to fail of recognition.

On the half-dais, as I suppose the large semicircular step between

the main room and the dais should be called, we find, first, the

monitress for the week, who stands up while she recites; and

secondly, the Virgin herself, who is the only pupil allowed a seat

so near to the august presence of the Lady Principal. She is

ostensibly doing a piece of embroidery which is stretched on a

cushion on her lap, but I should say that she was chiefly interested

in the nearest of four pretty little Cupids, who are all trying to

attract her attention, though they pay no court to any other young

lady. I have sometimes wondered whether the obviously scandalized

gesture of the Lady Principal might not be directed at these Cupids,

rather than at anything the monitress may have been reading, for she

would surely find them disquieting. Or she may be saying, "Why,

bless me! I do declare the Virgin has got another hamper, and St.

Anne's cakes are always so terribly rich!" Certainly the hamper is

there, close to the Virgin, and the Lady Principal's action may be

well directed at it, but it may have been sent to some other young

lady, and be put on the sub-dais for public exhibition. It looks as

if it might have come from Fortnum and Mason's, and I half expected

to find a label, addressing it to "The Virgin Mary, Temple College,

Jerusalem," but if ever there was one the mice have long since eaten

it. The Virgin herself does not seem to care much about it, but if

she has a fault it is that she is generally a little apathetic.

Whose the hamper was, however, is a point we shall never now

certainly determine, for the best fossil is worse than the worst

living form. Why, alas! was not Mr. Edison alive when this chapel

was made? We might then have had a daily phonographic recital of

the conversation, and an announcement might be put outside the

chapels, telling us at what hours the figures would speak.

On either side of the main room there are two annexes opening out

from it; these are reserved chiefly for the younger children, some

of whom, I think, are little boys. In the left annex, behind the

ladies who are making a mitre, there is a child who has got a cake,

and another has some fruit--possibly given them by the Virgin--and a

third child is begging for some of it. The light failed so

completely here that I was not able to photograph any of these

figures. It was a dull September afternoon, and the clouds had

settled thick round the chapel, which is never very light, and is

nearly 4000 feet above the sea. I waited till such twilight as made

it hopeless that more detail could be got--and a queer ghostly place

enough it was to wait in--but after giving the plate an exposure of

fifty minutes, I saw I could get no more, and desisted.

These long photographic exposures have the advantage that one is

compelled to study a work in detail through mere lack of other

employment, and that one can take one's notes in peace without being

tempted to hurry over them; but even so I continually find I have

omitted to note, and have clean forgotten, much that I want later

on.

In the other annex there are also one or two younger children, but

it seems to have been set apart for conversation and relaxation more

than any other part of the establishment.

I have already said that the work is signed by an inscription inside

the chapel, to the effect that the sculptures are by Pietro Aureggio

Termine di Biella. It will be seen that the young ladies are

exceedingly like one another, and that the artist aimed at nothing

more than a faithful rendering of the life of his own times. Let us

be thankful that he aimed at nothing less. Perhaps his wife kept a

girls' school; or he may have had a large family of fat, good-

natured daughters, whose little ways he had studied attentively; at

all events the work is full of spontaneous incident, and cannot fail

to become more and more interesting as the age it renders falls

farther back into the past. It is to be regretted that many

artists, better-known men, have not been satisfied with the humbler

ambitions of this most amiable and interesting sculptor. If he has

left us no laboured life-studies, he has at least done something for

us which we can find nowhere else, which we should be very sorry not

to have, and the fidelity of which to Italian life at the beginning

of the eighteenth century will not be disputed.

The eighth chapel is that of the Sposalizio, is certainly not by

Aureggio, and I should say was mainly by the same sculptor who did

the Presentation in the Temple. On going inside I found the figures

had come from more than one source; some of them are constructed so

absolutely on Valsesian principles, as regards technique, that it

may be assumed they came from Varallo. Each of these last figures

is in three pieces, that are baked separately and cemented together

afterwards, hence they are more easily transported; no more clay is

used than is absolutely necessary; and the off-side of the figure is

neglected; they will be found chiefly, if not entirely, at the top

of the steps. The other figures are more solidly built, and do not

remind me in their business features of anything in the Valsesia.

There was a sculptor, Francesco Sala, of Locarno (doubtless the

village a short distance below Varallo, and not the Locarno on the

Lago Maggiore), who made designs for some of the Oropa chapels, and

some of whose letters are still preserved, but whether the Valsesian

figures in this present work are by him or not I cannot say.

The statues are twenty-five in number; I could find no date or

signature; the work reminds me of Montrigone; several of the figures

are not at all bad, and several have horsehair for hair, as at

Varallo. The effect of the whole composition is better than we have

a right to expect from any sculpture dating from the beginning of

the eighteenth century.

The ninth chapel, the Annunciation, presents no feature of interest;

nor yet does the tenth, the Visit of Mary to Elizabeth. The

eleventh, the Nativity, though rather better, is still not

remarkable.

The twelfth, the Purification, is absurdly bad, but I do not know

whether the expression of strong personal dislike to the Virgin

which the High Priest wears is intended as prophetic, or whether it

is the result of incompetence, or whether it is merely a smile gone

wrong in the baking. It is amusing to find Marocco, who has not

been strict about archaeological accuracy hitherto, complain here

that there is an anachronism, inasmuch as some young ecclesiastics

are dressed as they would be at present, and one of them actually

carries a wax candle. This is not as it should be; in works like

those at Oropa, where implicit reliance is justly placed on the

earnest endeavours that have been so successfully made to thoroughly

and carefully and patiently ensure the accuracy of the minutest

details, it is a pity that even a single error should have escaped

detection; this, however, has most unfortunately happened here, and

Marocco feels it his duty to put us on our guard. He explains that

the mistake arose from the sculptor's having taken both his general

arrangement and his details from some picture of the fourteenth or

fifteenth century, when the value of the strictest historical

accuracy was not yet so fully understood.

It seems to me that in the matter of accuracy, priests and men of

science whether lay or regular on the one hand, and plain people

whether lay or regular on the other, are trying to play a different

game, and fail to understand one another because they do not see

that their objects are not the same. The cleric and the man of

science (who is only the cleric in his latest development) are

trying to develop a throat with two distinct passages--one that

shall refuse to pass even the smallest gnat, and another that shall

gracefully gulp even the largest camel; whereas we men of the street

desire but one throat, and are content that this shall swallow

nothing bigger than a pony. Everyone knows that there is no such

effectual means of developing the power to swallow camels as

incessant watchfulness for opportunities of straining at gnats, and

this should explain many passages that puzzle us in the work both of

our clerics and our scientists. I, not being a man of science,

still continue to do what I said I did in Alps and Sanctuaries, and

make it a rule to earnestly and patiently and carefully swallow a

few of the smallest gnats I can find several times a day, as the

best astringent for the throat I know of.

The thirteenth chapel is the Marriage Feast at Cana of Galilee.

This is the best chapel as a work of art; indeed, it is the only one

which can claim to be taken quite seriously. Not that all the

figures are very good; those to the left of the composition are

commonplace enough; nor are the Christ and the giver of the feast at

all remarkable; but the ten or dozen figures of guests and

attendants at the right-hand end of the work are as good as anything

of their kind can be, and remind me so strongly of Tabachetti that I

cannot doubt they were done by someone who was indirectly influenced

by that great sculptor's work. It is not likely that Tabachetti was

alive long after 1640, by which time he would have been about eighty

years old; and the foundations of this chapel were not laid till

about 1690; the statues are probably a few years later; they can

hardly, therefore, be by one who had even studied under Tabachetti;

but until I found out the dates, and went inside the chapel to see

the way in which the figures had been constructed, I was inclined to

think they might be by Tabachetti himself, of whom, indeed, they are

not unworthy. On examining the figures I found them more heavily

constructed than Tabachetti's are, with smaller holes for taking out

superfluous clay, and more finished on the off-sides. Marocco says

the sculptor is not known. I looked in vain for any date or

signature. Possibly the right-hand figures (for the left-hand ones

can hardly be by the same hand) may be by some sculptor from Crea,

which is at no very great distance from Oropa, who was penetrated by

Tabachetti's influence; but whether as regards action and concert

with one another, or as regards excellence in detail, I do not see

how anything can be more realistic, and yet more harmoniously

composed. The placing of the musicians in a minstrels' gallery

helps the effect; these musicians are six in number, and the other

figures are twenty-three. Under the table, between Christ and the

giver of the feast, there is a cat.

The fourteenth chapel, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, is without

interest.

The fifteenth, the Coronation of the Virgin, contains forty-six

angels, twenty-six cherubs, fifty-six saints, the Holy Trinity, the

Madonna herself, and twenty-four innocents, making 156 statues in

all. Of these I am afraid there is not one of more than ordinary

merit; the most interesting is a half-length nude life-study of

Disma--the good thief. After what had been promised him it was

impossible to exclude him, but it was felt that a half-length nude

figure would be as much as he could reasonably expect.

Behind the sanctuary there is a semi-ruinous and wholly valueless

work, which shows the finding of the black image, which is now in

the church, but is only shown on great festivals.

This leads us to a consideration that I have delayed till now. The

black image is the central feature of Oropa; it is the raison d'etre

of the whole place, and all else is a mere incrustation, so to

speak, around it. According to this image, then, which was carved

by St. Luke himself, and than which nothing can be better

authenticated, both the Madonna and the infant Christ were as black

as anything can be conceived. It is not likely that they were as

black as they have been painted; no one yet ever was so black as

that; yet, even allowing for some exaggeration on St. Luke's part,

they must have been exceedingly black if the portrait is to be

accepted; and uncompromisingly black they accordingly are on most of

the wayside chapels for many a mile around Oropa. Yet in the

chapels we have been hitherto considering--works in which, as we

know, the most punctilious regard has been shown to accuracy--both

the Virgin and Christ are uncompromisingly white. As in the shops

under the Colonnade where devotional knick-knacks are sold, you can

buy a black china image or a white one, whichever you like; so with

the pictures--the black and white are placed side by side--pagando

il danaro si puo scegliere. It rests not with history or with the

Church to say whether the Madonna and Child were black or white, but

you may settle it for yourself, whichever way you please, or rather

you are required, with the acquiescence of the Church, to hold that

they were both black and white at one and the same time.

It cannot be maintained that the Church leaves the matter undecided,

and by tolerating both types proclaims the question an open one, for

she acquiesces in the portrait by St. Luke as genuine. How, then,

justify the whiteness of the Holy Family in the chapels? If the

portrait is not known as genuine, why set such a stumbling-block in

our paths as to show us a black Madonna and a white one, both as

historically accurate, within a few yards of one another?

I ask this not in mockery, but as knowing that the Church must have

an explanation to give, if she would only give it, and as myself

unable to find any, even the most far-fetched, that can bring what

we see at Oropa, Loreto and elsewhere into harmony with modern

conscience, either intellectual or ethical.

I see, indeed, from an interesting article in the Atlantic Monthly

for September, 1889, entitled "The Black Madonna of Loreto," that

black Madonnas were so frequent in ancient Christian art that "some

of the early writers of the Church felt obliged to account for it by

explaining that the Virgin was of a very dark complexion, as might

be proved by the verse of Canticles which says, 'I am black, but

comely, O ye daughters of Jerusalem.' Others maintained that she

became black during her sojourn in Egypt. . . . Priests, of to-day,

say that extreme age and exposure to the smoke of countless altar-

candles have caused that change in complexion which the more naive

fathers of the Church attributed to the power of an Egyptian sun";

but the writer ruthlessly disposes of this supposition by pointing

out that in nearly all the instances of black Madonnas it is the

flesh alone that is entirely black, the crimson of the lips, the

white of the eyes, and the draperies having preserved their original

colour. The authoress of the article (Mrs. Hilliard) goes on to

tell us that Pausanias mentions two statues of the black Venus, and

says that the oldest statue of Ceres among the Phigalenses was

black. She adds that Minerva Aglaurus, the daughter of Cecrops, at

Athens, was black; that Corinth had a black Venus, as also the

Thespians; that the oracles of Dodona and Delphi were founded by

black doves, the emissaries of Venus, and that the Isis Multimammia

in the Capitol at Rome is black.

Sometimes I have asked myself whether the Church does not intend to

suggest that the whole story falls outside the domain of history,

and is to be held as the one great epos, or myth, common to all

mankind; adaptable by each nation according to its own several

needs; translatable, so to speak, into the facts of each individual

nation, as the written word is translatable into its language, but

appertaining to the realm of the imagination rather than to that of

the understanding, and precious for spiritual rather than literal

truths. More briefly, I have wondered whether she may not intend

that such details as whether the Virgin was white or black are of

very little importance in comparison with the basing of ethics on a

story that shall appeal to black races as well as to white ones.

If so, it is time we were made to understand this more clearly. If

the Church, whether of Rome or England, would lean to some such view

as this--tainted though it be with mysticism--if we could see either

great branch of the Church make a frank, authoritative attempt to

bring its teaching into greater harmony with the educated

understanding and conscience of the time, instead of trying to

fetter that understanding with bonds that gall it daily more and

more profoundly; then I, for one, in view of the difficulty and

graciousness of the task, and in view of the great importance of

historical continuity, would gladly sink much of my own private

opinion as to the value of the Christian ideal, and would gratefully

help either Church or both, according to the best of my very feeble

ability. On these terms, indeed, I could swallow not a few camels

myself cheerfully enough.

Can we, however, see any signs as though either Rome or England will

stir hand or foot to meet us? Can any step be pointed to as though

either Church wished to make things easier for men holding the

opinions held by the late Mr. Darwin, or by Mr. Herbert Spencer and

Professor Huxley? How can those who accept evolution with any

thoroughness accept such doctrines as the Incarnation or the

Redemption with any but a quasi-allegorical and poetical

interpretation? Can we conceivably accept these doctrines in the

literal sense in which the Church advances them? And can the

leaders of the Church be blind to the resistlessness of the current

that has set against those literal interpretations which she seems

to hug more and more closely the more religious life is awakened at

all? The clergyman is wanted as supplementing the doctor and the

lawyer in all civilized communities; these three keep watch on one

another, and prevent one another from becoming too powerful. I, who

distrust the doctrinaire in science even more than the doctrinaire

in religion, should view with dismay the abolition of the Church of

England, as knowing that a blatant bastard science would instantly

step into her shoes; but if some such deplorable consummation is to

be avoided in England, it can only be through more evident leaning

on the part of our clergy to such an interpretation of the Sacred

History as the presence of a black and white Madonna almost side by

side at Oropa appears to suggest.

I fear that in these last paragraphs I may have trenched on

dangerous ground, but it is not possible to go to such places as

Oropa without asking oneself what they mean and involve. As for the

average Italian pilgrims, they do not appear to give the matter so

much as a thought. They love Oropa, and flock to it in thousands

during the summer; the President of the Administration assured me

that they lodged, after a fashion, as many as ten thousand pilgrims

on the 15th of last August. It is astonishing how living the

statues are to these people, and how the wicked are upbraided and

the good applauded. At Varallo, since I took the photographs I

published in my book Ex Voto, an angry pilgrim has smashed the nose

of the dwarf in Tabachetti's Journey to Calvary, for no other reason

than inability to restrain his indignation against one who was

helping to inflict pain on Christ. It is the real hair and the

painting up to nature that does this. Here at Oropa I found a paper

on the floor of the Sposalizio Chapel, which ran as follows:--

"By the grace of God and the will of the administrative chapter of

this sanctuary, there have come here to work --- ---, mason, --- ---

, carpenter, and --- ---, plumber, all of Chiavazza, on the twenty-

first day of January, 1886, full of cold (pieni di freddo).

"They write these two lines to record their visit. They pray the

Blessed Virgin that she will maintain them safe and sound from

everything equivocal that may befall them (sempre sani e salvi da

ogni equivoco li possa accadere). Oh, farewell! We reverently

salute all the present statues, and especially the Blessed Virgin,

and the reader."

Through the Universal Review, I suppose, all its readers are to

consider themselves saluted; at any rate, these good fellows, in the

effusiveness of their hearts, actually wrote the above in pencil. I

was sorely tempted to steal it, but, after copying it, left it in

the Chief Priest's hands instead.

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