Stables.
Nothing is worse for horses than close, ill-ventilated stables, and in
India, where they are made out of such cheap material as mud and sun-dried
brick, there is no excuse for their being too small. In some of the newer
houses, stables are made out of burned brick; but I prefer the older ones
of mud or sun-dried brick, as the walls are generally thicker, and this
makes them cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It is also of
importance that they should not be too low, but of the two evils I should
prefer a small stable with a lofty roof to a larger one with a low one,
provided there was ventilation in the top. Every stable should have a good
deep verandah round it; it not only keeps off the sun in the summer, but
is useful to put bedding, etc., in during the rain. If there is no
verandah, one can be easily made with the flat straw screens used by
natives, called "jamps," and bamboo supports. The doorways should be high
and wide, so that there is no danger of the horse hitting his hips or head
against it in going in and out. A fractured hip-bone is frequently caused
by horses rushing through narrow doorways, and a troublesome disease known
as "poll evil" is generally caused by striking the head against too low a
one. It is also well to have the sides of the door-posts rounded off, not
left at an angle. If there is no window at the back of the stable,
opposite the door, one should be made above the horse's head, and another
smaller one on a level with the floor, so as to allow the air to circulate
freely. If possible, avoid a draught, but always remember that it is
better to have plenty of fresh air and a draught than a stuffy stable
without one, as the horse can always be kept warm with extra clothing,
bandages, and bedding. Thatched roofs are much cooler in summer and warmer
in winter than the flat earthen ones that are generally used in Northern
India. Indian stables are almost always divided off into loose boxes, the
partition walls being continued up to the roof. I think they should be
only built high enough to prevent the horses teasing each other over them,
as if continued right up they interfere with the free circulation of the
air. If this cannot be done, on account of the partitions helping to
support the roof, a window should be knocked through in each. In South
Africa stables are usually simply a long shed with a manger running down
the back wall, without any partitions between the standings, and the
horses are simply tied up to a ring in the manger with the head rope. Cape
horses are, however, exceedingly quiet, and will stand still all day long.
They never seem to think of kicking or biting at each other like the
Indian country-bred does.
Chicks.
The plague of flies in the East, particularly during the rains, cannot be
realized in England, and if not protected against them, they will almost
worry horses to death. For this reason the doors and windows of the stable
should be fitted with "chicks," or mats, made out of split bamboos or
reeds, with interspaces between them, which allow of light and air passing
through, but which will keep the flies out. They are not very costly
articles, and add most materially to the comfort of the horse. If
carefully looked after, and not let flap about in the wind, they will last
for years with a very small annual expenditure for repairs.
Stable Floors.
The stable floor should be made of wet clay beaten down, and left to
thoroughly dry. This can be carried out by the "syces," and if thoroughly
done, they will last a good many months. I always make it a practice to
dig up the floors of stables in a new house, before they are occupied, a
foot and a half deep, and thoroughly renew it, and usually it is
astounding the amount of foul earth that has to be removed. I also have
the whole of the floor picked up and renewed once a year--for choice, at
the end of September or beginning of October, after the rains have
stopped. Any moisture should be at once removed, before it has time to
soak into the floor; or, if it has, the moist earth should be swept away
with a broom (jaru), made out of a number of pliable twigs tied together,
and fresh dry earth sprinkled over the top of it. A supply of dry powdered
earth should be kept outside each stable door in a box ready for use when
required. The ordinary earth that is in the compound will not do to make
floors out of, although "syces" will use it if allowed, as it is less
trouble to get than clay (kicher ke muttee), but it will not bind, and
when trodden on breaks up and wears into dust.
Charcoal (_khoalie_).
Although it looks dirty, powdered charcoal sprinkled over the floor has a
powerful effect as a deodorizer. The ashes of a wood fire do nearly as
well as charcoal for this purpose, and can be obtained anywhere, as wood
is universally used for fuel all over India. In some stables earthenware
vessels (chatties) are buried under the floor to catch the urine. This is
an abominable, filthy custom, and should never be permitted, as there is
no more certain cause of disease. Diseases of the feet, such as foul
smelling, suppurating frogs, thrush, and canker, are in the majority of
cases caused by horses standing on wet, filthy floors.
Picketing.
In the hot season horses should, if possible, be picketed out at night as
soon as it gets cool in the evening. It is the greatest relief to an
animal to be brought out of a hot stable into the open air, even if the
actual temperature is no less than indoors. If the flies or mosquitos are
troublesome, the nets sold for the purpose will keep them off. If the net
is not sufficient, a fire made out of the stable litter on the windward
side will drive them away, and horses do not mind smoke. It is as well to
have a regular standing made with mud, in the same way as the stable
flooring, as otherwise the ground soon gets broken up and foul. The
standing should be swept clean every morning, and mended in the same way
as the stable floors are.
Bedding (_bechalie_).
There is nothing better than clean straw for bedding, and it is a great
mistake to stint horses in it. If a good deep bed is given, they will lie
down and rest themselves, whereas, if there is not enough, and the floor
feels hard through it, they will walk about over it, and far more will be
wasted than if the horse was lying down on it. The bedding should be taken
up every morning, and any soiled straw removed. It should be well shaken
up and spread out in the sun to dry and air, and at night, when again put
down for use, a small quantity of fresh straw added to it. In wet weather
the bedding can be aired and dried in the verandah. All soiled straw and
droppings should be at once removed in a basket (tokrie), which should be
provided for the purpose; and it is wonderful, if this plan is adopted,
how little fresh straw is required to keep the horse constantly supplied
with a good bed; and nothing is more saving to the wear and tear of the
legs and feet than to get the animal to lie down at night. In Australia
and South Africa wheat or oat straw can be obtained, but in India rice
straw is generally used, or else the long elephant grass that grows on the
banks of rivers and swampy places. Both are good enough for the purpose,
only they are brittle, and more is required than when wheat straw is used,
as they quickly break up.
Sawdust (_burradah_).
In the north of India the deodar, or Himalayan cedar sawdust, can always
be obtained from any of the timber depôts on the banks of the large
rivers, almost for the expense of carting it away. It makes a good bed if
straw cannot be obtained, but is liable to stick to the horse and get in
under his coat if at all long, and gives much more work grooming. It is
also more troublesome to remove in the morning to air, and if any wind is
blowing a good deal gets wasted. If used, it is best to have it spread out
in one stall and leave it there, only using it at night, putting the horse
into another during the daytime. Any sawdust that gets damp or soiled
should be at once removed, as it very soon begins to smell badly.
Shavings.
Shavings of deodar or pine can also be obtained, but they require to be
carefully sorted out, as there are likely to be splinters in them, and in
lying down the horse may give himself a bad wound.
Sand (_ret_).
Sand can be obtained anywhere along the banks of the rivers; but it is
hard, and does not form a very yielding bed, and I should not use it if
anything else could be got. It requires to be sifted, to get rid of the
pebbles and stones it contains. If straw is scarce and sand has to be
used, the best plan is to put a layer of about a foot of sand over the
floor, and a thin layer of straw over it; this will make a much softer bed
than the sand alone.
Horses eating Bedding.
This is a trick some horses have, and from which they seldom can be cured.
It is generally the custom to put a muzzle (chik-na) on them at night; but
this, of course, stops their feeding at all. I prefer to bed them down
with sand, sawdust, or shavings, and leave them free to feed at night. If
a muzzle is used, it should be a wire one, not leather, as these get very
foul and dirty, and interfere with the horse's breathing, which the wire
one does not.
Exercise.
In India it is usual to exercise ordinary hacks, polo ponies, and harness
horses, not doing any special work, twice a day--morning and evening. The
length of time they are out, and the amount of ground they cover, is very
variable--in most cases depending on whether the "syce" is in a mood to
take exercise or not himself. They usually take horses out on the road to
the bazaar, or some favourite meeting-place; and it is not an uncommon
thing to see a couple of dozen horses, belonging to various people,
standing about, while their respective "syces" are sitting about, smoking
and discussing their masters and various bazaar topics of interest. Under
these circumstances the horses do not get much exercise; and many a
mysterious injury, that cannot be accounted for, is inflicted by their
kicking at each other while standing about in this manner. If the compound
is large enough, it is a good plan to make a ring with the stable litter
and have the horses exercised round it. You can then be certain they are
getting a fair amount of work; but a large ring is necessary, and if there
is a garden it spoils the compound. Furthermore, horses get into a very
careless, slovenly way of walking when led round and round in this
monotonous fashion daily. "Syces" generally lead horses at exercise, and
most horse-owners will not allow them to ride; but I think this is a
mistake, and if they can ride, I always allow them to do so. If they lead
the horse, he will go along in a listless fashion, and walk with his head
down, stumbling at every step; whereas, if he is ridden, he will carry his
head up and go in a much more lively and collected fashion, and it being
much pleasanter for the "syce" to ride than walk, the full amount of
exercise is more likely to be taken. "Syces" nearly always ride at
exercise bare-backed; but they should be made use a folded blanket as a
pad, kept in its place by a body-roller, as the anatomy of the native of
India is such that, without any protection, he is likely to give the horse
a sore back. They should also only be let use a snaffle bridle, as few
know how to handle a double one. When at exercise knee-caps should be
worn. These should be bought from a European saddler, and care be taken
that the top strap is fitted with a piece of indiarubber in the middle,
to allow of its giving with the motion of the limb. If there is not this
indiarubber spring, when the top strap is buckled tight enough to prevent
the cap slipping down, the motion will cause it to rub the skin at the
back of the knee; and I have seen some bad abrasions, that caused
temporary lameness, from this cause. If the top strap is buckled loose
enough to avoid this chafing, then the knee-cap won't stay up in its
proper place, if it has no spring. The country-made knee-caps sold by the
native saddlers seldom are fitted with it; and if they are they cannot be
relied on, as generally the indiarubber is bad and perished. The lower
strap of the knee-cap should be buckled quite loose, it being only
required to keep it down and prevent it flapping about; but "syces" are
very apt to draw it tight also, and if they do, it is pretty certain to
cut the skin.
GROOMING, STABLE GEAR, Etc.
Heel Ropes (_pecharie_).
If possible, horses should be left loose, which generally can be done in
India, as most of the stables are loose boxes. Sometimes it is necessary
to fasten them up, such as when picketed out at night in the hot weather
or on the march. There are several plans of picketing, each having its
advantages and disadvantages; but as these generally apply to military
animals, I will merely mention those commonly used in private stables. The
most common plan is to fasten the horse up with head and heel ropes, to
wooden pegs driven into the ground. Heel ropes (pecharie) consist of
either two ropes about twelve feet long, ending in a single one, so as to
be Y-shaped, the single one being fastened to a wooden peg (make) driven
into the ground, and the two arms to the horse's hind fetlocks by means of
leather straps, called "muzzumas." These straps are loops of rope covered
with leather, to one end of which the heel rope is tied, and into which
the hind foot is slipped, being secured by a flat leather thong wound
round the middle of it behind the fetlock joint to prevent its slipping
off. The strap is then of a fig. 8, or hour-glass shape, the heel rope
being tied in one loop, the foot placed in the other, the thong forming
the neck or constriction. These, I think, are the best form of leather
foot strap; but in buying them care should be taken that the stitching of
the leather is on the outside, as if it is on the inside, where natives
often put it, it is very likely to rub the skin and cause a bad cracked
heel. Another form of "muzzuma" is made out of stiff flat leather lined
with felt. This has a slip loop going round it, with a buckle on one side
and a strap on the other, that runs along the centre. The heel rope is
tied to one end, the foot put into the other, and when the strap is
buckled tightly, the running loop is drawn close up to the heel, so as to
keep the whole arrangement in its place. This form of "muzzuma" is the
usual kind sold; but it is objectionable, as the edges get stiff and hard,
and are likely to cut the heel, which the round ones do not. Both sorts of
leather "muzzumas" require to be kept soft and pliable with dubbing
(momrogan), which "syces" never think necessary. I, however, prefer those
made out of plaited hemp or tow. They are merely a band of loosely plaited
tow, about eighteen inches long, the heel rope being fastened to one end,
and secured by a string or tape just behind the fetlock; they are much
softer than the leather ones, and quite as strong. The disadvantage,
however, is that they soon wear out, but they are very cheap; in fact, the
"syces" can make them themselves out of the raw hemp or tow (sun). They
are used by many of the native cavalry regiments in India in preference to
the leather ones. The heel ropes can be made out of one long rope doubled,
a "muzzuma" fastened to each free end, and the doubled portion to a
tent-peg. When heel ropes are used, one should be put on each hind leg; it
is dangerous to only put on one, and I have seen more than one fractured
thigh caused by this. If the heel ropes are on both hind legs, and the
horse kicks, he has to do so straight into the air, as there is equal
restraint on both; but if there is only one, the unequal check of the
single rope is likely to cause a fracture. If allowed, "syces" will always
pull the heel ropes so tight as to stretch the horse out; they should be
loose enough to allow him to stand in a natural position.
Head Ropes (_aghari_).
Head ropes should be fastened to the ring on the head collar (nukta) under
the chin. There should either be two separate ropes, one end of each
fastened to the ring, or one long one doubled in the middle, the central
portion fastened to the ring, and the two ends to two wooden pegs driven
into the ground about three or four feet on each side of the horse's head.
If only a single rope is used, it must, naturally, be fastened to a peg
straight in front, and, to allow the horse to move his head up and down,
must be loose. When fastened in this way he is exceedingly likely to get
his fore leg over the rope and get hung up in it, a nasty wound in the
heel or at the back of the knee being the result, if nothing worse;
whereas, if the ropes are pegged out on each side, he can move about
freely, and it would be difficult for him to get his leg over them. Both
head and heel ropes should be made of hemp; the cotton rope used in India
for most purposes is not strong enough, and soon breaks and wears out. In
Peshawur and along the north-west frontier, a rope is made of goat hair
that is very strong, and is excellent for this purpose. It is somewhat
more expensive than ordinary rope, but with care will last a long time,
and will amply repay itself. Both head and heel ropes should be tied to
the pegs in a slipknot, so that with a single pull horses can be set free
when necessary. "Syces" will usually tie them in a jam-knot, and horses
struggling to get loose when frightened very often badly injure themselves
before they can be set free.
Fetlock Picketing.
A method of picketing horses was introduced into the Indian army some
years ago, by dispensing with head ropes and using a short chain shackle
about three feet long, buckled round one of the fore fetlocks, and
fastened to a peg driven into the ground. This was chiefly done with the
object of reducing the weight carried, and with animals used for military
purposes, doubtless fulfilled the purpose, but in a private stable I fail
to see its advantages over the other plan.
Picketing Posts.
When horses are picketed outside the stable, and there is space enough,
picketing posts are the most preferable method, as they allow greater
freedom than any other. A stout smooth post, about five or six inches in
diameter, is driven several feet into the ground, so that it is five or
six feet above the surface, a strong iron ring is slipped over it, and to
this the head rope is made fast; no heel ropes are used, and the horse can
move round it as he pleases. The post must be smooth, so that there is
nothing for the ring to catch in, and when put into the ground the point
should be put into the fire and charred, or covered with kerosene oil, to
keep off the white ants. It will also have to be examined occasionally to
see that it is not damaged or rotten. The only drawback to this plan is
that, if there are several horses, a considerable space is necessary, as
they must be far enough apart to prevent their kicking at each other.
Ringing.
In South Africa and the colonies horses are picketed by the method known
as "ringing," the head rope of one being fastened to the head collar of
the next, and so on, till the head rope of the last is in its turn
fastened to the head collar of the first, their heads forming a ring
looking inwards. Colonial horses will stand like this for hours together;
but they are very quiet, and behave in a different way to the Indian
country-bred. I have seen the same plan used in a cavalry regiment of the
Italian army on the march near Milan.
Rheims.
In South Africa head ropes are made of prepared raw hide called "rheims."
They are prepared by the Kaffir women out of raw ox hide, and are very
strong and supple, and are excellent for the purpose.
Knee-haltering.
Knee-haltering is also a South African plan of securing horses when turned
out to graze. The fore leg is lifted up, so that the forearm from the
elbow to the knee is parallel to the ground. The head rope, or "rheim," is
then fastened above the knee, the head being pulled a little downwards.
The horse is then turned out to graze on the veldt, and when his head is
down feeding he can use his limbs and walk about as he likes, but as soon
as he puts up his head to trot or gallop the fore leg is pulled up, and he
has only three to go on, and can easily be caught.
Shackles (_bheri_).
The natives of India use iron shackles, much like handcuffs, to fasten
with a key round both fore fetlocks of horses when turned out loose; but
they are not a desirable invention, and in young animals are very likely
to cause ringbones. But this, I think, is on account of their clumsy shape
and being constantly worn, as I believe shackles made out of round iron
that shut with a spring were used by the Canadian mounted police at one
time when turning their horses out, and they found they did not chafe and
rub so much as leather ones did. It was found that even moving through the
wet grass the steel hobbles were polished, kept bright, and required no
attention, whereas the leather ones perished and became hard, and gave
constant trouble unless carefully looked after. I have never tried this
plan myself, for I have found the Cape system of knee-haltering when
turning animals out to graze the best I have yet come across.
Picketing-pegs (_make_).
Picketing-pegs should be made out of hard wood about eighteen inches to
two feet long; iron ones are dangerous. They should be driven into the
ground in a slanting direction, the point towards and the head away from
the animal, to resist the strain on it. If there are no tent-pegs, or the
ground is so soft that there is no holding for them, a hole a couple of
feet deep can be dug, and a bundle of straw or a couple of tent-pegs tied
crossways buried in it, the earth trodden down, and the rope brought out
at the surface. This will give ample holding, and may be practically
tested, for although a vertical pull will easily bring it up, the
strongest man will fail to move it if the strain is horizontal.
Leading-ropes (_bagh durie_).
Leading-ropes are things that ruin half the horses' mouths in India, and I
never let such a thing into the stable. If they are used as they were
originally intended to be, that is, buckled into the ring of the snaffle
or watering bridle to lead the horse with, they do no harm; but it is
impossible to prevent "syces" from passing them over the head and then
back through both rings, so as to form a gag, and this they hang on to. I
always make them use a leading-chain, which is a leather strap with about
a foot of chain and a snap-hook at the end of it. The hook fastens into
the ring of the snaffle, and they cannot well pass the strap over the head
to turn it into a gag. It seems impossible to teach a "syce" how to lead a
horse in a watering bridle, and I find these chains the best compromise.
Brushes and Gear.
The grooming utensils required in an Indian stable are very simple: a
horse-brush, curry-comb, bucket, some dusters, and a hoof-picker, being
the sum total; but only one of these last is required among five or six
horses. It is best to get English bristle brushes, they last out two of
the native fibre ones, and are very little more expensive. Good
horse-brushes are made by several firms in Cawnpore, and, of course, when
a large number are used, the saving is considerable if the country-made
article is bought, but where only a small number are required, this is a
false economy.
Curry-combs.
These an Indian "syce" cannot get on without, and although he only uses it
to wear out the brush, still, after all, it does not do so very much harm;
but a bad, lazy man, if he is not prevented, will use it to scrape the
dirt off the horse with. Country-breds are generally very thin-skinned,
and feel the comb very much if scarified with it, as the "syce" is very
fond of doing; and I am positive that this practice in many cases has to
account for much of the proverbial bad temper of these animals. The
curry-comb should never be put on the horse's body at all, and in reality
it is useless. If it can be managed, it is best not to give the "syces"
such things, the only use of them being to clean the brush with, and this
can be done just as well with the palm of the left hand, and the brush
does not wear out so quickly; but it is the custom to use the comb, and it
is hard to prevent it.
Buckets (_balti_).
Buckets can be bought anywhere. Zinc ones are better than tin, although
perhaps a little more expensive; one should be provided for each horse.
Dusters (_jharans_).
Dusters are things that native servants of every sort seem to consume in
enormous quantities, and unless some check is put on it, the number used
at the end of the month will be astonishing. Either the old one should be
produced before another is given, or else some contract be given to them
to provide them for themselves; but the former plan is the best; if the
contract system is adopted, filthy rags will be used. They are luckily
exceedingly cheap, and are made nearly everywhere.
Hoof-picker (_sum khodna_).
A hoof-picker can be made out of almost any piece of rod-iron, and one
should be hung up in every stable. One for every four or five horses is
enough.
Clothing (_gurdaine_).
In Northern India, if horses are not clipped they require in the winter at
least two thick rugs, and if they are clipped an extra one, as the climate
from November to the end of February is bitterly cold. The ordinary
country clothing, made out of "mundah," and sold in the bazaars, called
"jhools," keeps horses warm and answers its purpose, and is cheap--a rug
of this material costing about Rs. 3; but I think myself that it is false
economy to get it, and that the horse-clothing made at the Muir or Elgin
mills at Cawnpore, or the Egerton mills at Dhariwal, in the Punjab,
although perhaps at first somewhat more expensive, will in the end be
found the cheapest, as with care one suit of this will last many years,
whereas the country clothing is seldom much good after a second winter's
wear. This clothing is made in all sorts of colours, and turned out in
suits, and is every bit as good as English manufactured. Country blankets
(kumbal) can also be got; and the condemned soldiers' blankets, that are
periodically sold by the military authorities, make excellent horse-rugs.
I always think it best to get regular horse-clothing shaped and pieced out
at the neck to buckle across the chest, or, at all events, to have one rug
like this, even if the rest are ordinary square blankets, as the shaped
clothing protects the front of the chest, which the square blanket will
not do. The blanket can be used in the daytime, and the rug on the top at
night, buckling across the chest, as leaving this part of the body exposed
is a fruitful source of coughs and colds. Aprons, breast-pieces, and
quarter-cords are seldom seen in India, except on race horses, and then
only as a fancy matter.
Hoods (_khansilla_).
Hoods with hacks, harness horses, and polo ponies are not often required;
but if horses are sensitive to cold, particularly if they are standing out
at night, they are no doubt a great protection. They are made up of the
same material as the country "jhool," and they also can be got to match
the clothing made at any of the woollen mills. In any case it is a good
thing to have a spare hood in the stable, even if it is not habitually
used, as when a horse begins to cough if at once put on a severe cold is
often averted.
Body-rollers (_paities_, or _farakis_).
Body-rollers are sold in the bazaar shops of native manufacture, but are
most flimsy, and I strongly advise that either English ones, or else those
made by any of the manufacturers of leather goods at Cawnpore, which are
nearly as good as English ones, be used, although they may at first be a
little more expensive. The common country rollers are always breaking, and
never being properly stuffed, the webbing in the centre of the two pads
presses on the ridge of the spine when the roller is buckled up. There is
no more fruitful cause of sore backs than this, especially if horses are
at all thin and standing out in the open. "Syces" have a trick of pulling
up the straps of the roller as tight as possible, and if it gets wet with
the dew or rain it shrinks up, and the tight webbing cuts and pinches the
skin over the backbone, causing a sore back. With a properly made roller
the pressure is taken on the sides of the back by the two pads, and the
webbing does not come in contact with the skin at all. In any case, if the
horses are standing out in the open at night, it is always advisable to go
round the last thing and let the roller out a hole or two. If country
rollers are used, direct pressure of the webbing on the spine can be taken
off by putting a folded up duster or a handful of straw under it. If the
back has been pinched or rubbed the roller should be left off, and the
blankets or clothing kept in their place by a couple of tapes or pieces of
string stitched to the edge of each and tied under the body.
Bandages (_puttie_).
Woollen bandages on the legs greatly add to the horse's comfort when
standing out on a cold night. The ordinary ones sold in the bazaar answer
well enough, only they are generally a little too wide and not long
enough. The bandage should be put on commencing from below and finishing
under the knee or hock, and not in the reverse direction, commencing
above, as is often done. The tapes should be tied in a bow outside. What
is known as the Newmarket bandage, made out of a semi-elastic woollen
material, is an excellent one. It stretches somewhat when put on the leg,
and gives it support. They, however, are somewhat expensive--about Rs. 4
a set--but with ordinary care will outlast several pairs of country ones.
A good bandage is made by the Muir Mills Company at Cawnpore out of the
cotton webbing called "newar"; they are very cheap and good, but are not
so warm as the cotton ones.
Summer Clothing.
This is rather a superfluity, and, unless with race horses, is not usually
indulged in, for at the time it could be worn it generally is so hot that
the less the horse has on him the better. Usually one of the blankets used
in the winter is kept to throw over him when standing about, or when
walking back from work. Drill summer clothing can be obtained at any of
the woollen mills in India in a variety of patterns, or a native tailor
(durzie) will make it up in your own verandah if you give him a pattern.
At least two suits per horse are required, as it very soon gets dirty in
the warm season and requires washing.
Eye Fringes (_makieara_).
Eye fringes are absolutely necessary in India, and are used in parts of
Australia to protect the eyes from the flies. They are fastened on to the
cheek strap of the head collar with a small tab and button-hole in place
of a brow band, and have a fringe of either leather or cotton cords that
hang down over the eyes halfway to the nose. I prefer the cord ones; the
fringes are always flat and in contact with the face, whereas the leather
ones are liable to curl up at the ends and allow the flies to get
underneath. The cotton ones are easier mended than the leather.
Fly Whisks (_chaurie_).
I always give each "syce" a fly whisk to keep flies off the horse while at
exercise, or when he is holding him anywhere. They are very cheap, last a
long time, and if not provided, the "syce" will arm himself with a dirty
duster or rag of some sort for the purpose. I may, perhaps, be too
sensitive on this point, but to see a dirty rag flourished about an
otherwise well-turned-out animal is to me a great eyesore.
Cleaning Horse Clothing, and Storing it in the Summer.
It never enters the head of a "syce" that clothing requires to be cleaned.
It should be frequently hung out in the sun and well beaten with a stick,
like a carpet is, and then well brushed on both sides with a stiff
clothes-brush. If necessary, it should be laid out flat and scrubbed with
a brush and soap and water, rinsed out with cold water, as hot will make
it shrink, and then, when dry again, beaten and brushed. The straps on
pieced rugs should have some dubbing (momrogan) now and again rubbed into
them, to prevent their getting hard and the leather perishing. Summer
clothing should be sent to the washerman (dhobie) to be washed. During the
summer months woollen clothing should be first cleaned, and then folded up
and put away, some camphor, pepper, and leaves of the "neem" tree, that
grows in every garden in Northern India, being placed between the folds to
keep off the moths. They should be folded away on the top of a box, board,
or table, or somewhere raised off the ground, to be out of the way of the
white ants, and once a week be unfolded and hung out in the sun to air for
a few hours, folded up, and stored away again. There is no occasion to
waste the spices that are with them; if they are carefully unfolded over
some newspapers, the whole can be collected and used again.
Numdahs.
If used at all, felt numdahs should have a plain edge, and not be bound
with coloured tape, as they so often are; particularly the cheaper ones,
that are sold by native saddlers. I have frequently seen sore backs
caused by this tape binding, as well as the hair in white horses
discoloured by the edge. When put on, the numdah should be well pulled up
into the arch of the saddle, particularly in front. The common practice is
to put the numdah flat on the back, and then the saddle on the top of it,
so that when the weight comes on it, the numdah gets tight and is
stretched, and is a common cause of sore backs and galled withers. When
taken off the horse's back, the numdah should be spread out in the sun to
dry; it should then be beaten with a stick and brushed with a hard brush
to get the dry caked perspiration out of it, and to bring the nap of the
felt up again. If this is not done it will get as hard as a board, and
neglected numdahs are certain to give sore backs. If the saddle is
properly stuffed and fitted to the horse's back, a numdah is not required,
the only use of it being to save the lining of the saddle, and for this
purpose I prefer a leather one.
Grooming (_malish_).
Grooming is an art that native grooms excel in. They have infinite
patience, and their long supple fingers are peculiarly adapted for the
work. They, furthermore, are used to it, for every Oriental is an adept
at shampooing or massage, constantly doing it to their own limbs and those
of their friends. When the horse comes in from work the bridle should be
taken off him, hung up on a peg, and a watering bridle put into his mouth,
the stirrup irons run up to the top of the leathers, and the girths
slackened. If there is a breast-plate it can be taken off, but the saddle
should not be removed till the back gets cool. According to the season of
the year, a light or warm rug should be thrown over the quarters, and the
horse walked about till he gets cool. If there is much mud sticking on
him, it can be rubbed off with a wisp of straw before the brush is used.
Horses should not be washed, or, if they are, only under very exceptional
circumstances, when specially ordered. It is, however, a favourite
practice among "syces," as it saves a good deal of trouble; and it is much
easier to wash off mud and dirt than to remove it with the brush, as ought
to be done; they are also very apt to use the curry-comb for this purpose.
When the horse is cool he should be gone over with the brush, to remove
what dirt is remaining, and when this is finished the process should be
repeated with the hands, the palm and bend of the wrist being used for
this purpose. If it is the hot weather, the grooming had best be done
out-of-doors; but in winter it is best to do it in the stable, as in
Northern India there is a cold wind blowing even in the middle of the day,
and if exposed to it horses are liable to catch cold. As soon as the
grooming is finished, which with a clipped horse can be done in about half
an hour, the clothing and bandages should be put on, and, if it is
evening, the bed put down. Even if not worked, this process of grooming
should take place twice a day--before the morning and evening feed.
Wisps and Grooming Pads.
Straw wisps or leather pads are particularly useful in developing the
muscle of a thin animal, or bringing the skin into order when it has been
neglected. The wisps are made by twisting some of the bedding straw
together into a rope about three feet long. This is then doubled in the
middle and again twisted, so as to form a flat pad. Two of these wisps are
used, one in each hand, and they are alternately brought down with a
slight slap and drawing motion in the direction of the hair, the whole
body being massaged with them. It is sometimes a good plan, if there is
much dirt in the coat, to cover the pad with a damp duster; the dirt
seems to stick to it. This is particularly useful when horses are changing
their coats; the hair sticks to the damp cloth, and the old coat is
brought out quicker than it otherwise would be. The grooming pads are used
in the same way. They are two circles of leather about four or five inches
in diameter, joined together with a strip of chamois leather about three
inches wide, so as to form a pad or cushion, that is stuffed with tow. On
one side a piece of leather or webbing is stitched at each end,
sufficiently loose to allow the hand to be slipped under it in the same
way as the horse brush. Two of these pads are used, and the skin beaten or
massaged by each hand alternately. Although, perhaps, at first horses are
fidgety, when they get used to it they appear to enjoy it; and it has the
advantage of letting the owner know, if he is not in sight, that the
"syce" is working by the noise he makes.
Hand-rubbing.
If horses are inclined to get filled on swollen legs, the tendons should
be well hand-rubbed for five minutes at each grooming hour. This
hand-rubbing should commence from the lower portion of the limb and be
continued upwards, not in the reverse direction, which is the usual
practice. The limb should be lifted up, and the fingers worked with a
kneading motion behind the tendons.
Washing.
The feet, mane and tail are the only parts that should ever be washed,
unless specially ordered, and then as seldom as possible. When the feet
are washed, great care should be taken that they are carefully dried
afterwards, and bandages put on, as leaving the legs wet is one of the
chief causes of cracked heels, more especially in the winter months, if
there is a dry cold wind blowing. If soap is used, it should be soft-soap;
or, better still, the soap nut, or "reita." This is a berry, the shell or
outer covering of which, when soaked in water, swells up into a sticky
mass, that lathers like soap, and by natives of India is used for washing
purposes.
Uneven Manes.
When the mane gets ragged and uneven, it should be carefully brushed down
four or five times a day with a damp water brush, to make it lie flat. The
long hairs on the under side next the neck should be pulled out, so that
the mane is thinned, and the lower part lies in a perfect curve along the
neck. Some horses object, and are a little troublesome during this
process; but, if it is done gradually, it can be easily accomplished. The
long hairs in the mane should never be cut, unless it is intended to clip
it off altogether, and make it into a "hogged" mane. If the mane will not
lie down flat with an even sweep, it can be covered with a cake of mud for
four or five days, when it should be removed, and renewed if necessary.
Being dry, it will crack, and the pieces can be easily knocked off, and
the dust brushed out. The mud cake generally has the desired effect after
having been applied four or five times.
Hogged Manes.
The manes of polo ponies and cobs it is the fashion to "hog," or cut off
close to the neck. It is best to leave the forelock, as it gives a certain
protection against the flies and glare of the sun; also, to leave a lock
of hair on the wither, to grasp with the hand when mounting. The best
implement to hog a mane with is a pair of ordinary horse-clippers, but
don't use a new pair, or they will get spoiled; old ones that are no use
for the rest of the body, do well enough. It is best to sit on the
animal's back when the mane is being hogged, and to cut forwards; the
hair will be cut much smoother, and a neater job made of it than when
standing on the ground at the side.
Ragged Legs.
If the horse is not clipped, the long hairs at the back of the legs look
very unsightly. They should be pulled out, not cut off. If a little
powdered resin is rubbed on the finger and thumb, the hair will stick to
it, and come out much more easily, and the legs will have a smooth, even
appearance, which can never be attained if they are cut off with scissors,
no matter how carefully this is done; there will always be jagged ridges
left. The long hairs under the jowl can be singed off by passing a lighted
candle under the jaw once or twice. If the horse is at all frightened at
the candle, he can be blindfolded; but the operation is so quick, that
generally it is all over before he is aware of what is being done. The
long hairs on the muzzle and chin can be clipped off with a pair of
ordinary scissors. If the horse is not clipped all over, attention to
these one or two little details make all the difference in his appearance,
and in his being turned out smart, or the reverse.
Trimming Tails.
The tail should be grasped close to the root with one hand, which is run
down so that the hairs are all gathered together, and a string or tape
tied round below the fleshy part at the tip. The tail should then be drawn
out straight, and the hair cut off with a single sweep of a sharp knife
just below where the string is tied. The blade of the knife must be long
enough to give a drawing sweep, which an ordinary pocket-knife will not
do. There is nothing better for this than a sharp native sword, or
"tulwar," as it is long enough to cut through all the hair at one stroke;
or, failing a sword, a sharp carving-knife will do, the longer in the
blade the better. Any uneven ends of hair that remain can afterwards be
trimmed off with a pair of scissors; or, better still, by a pair of sheep
shears. Tail-cutting machines are sold with an arrangement to fix the hair
of the tail with a clamp, on which there is a sliding cutting-blade. These
cut the hair off very smoothly and evenly; the only drawback is that they
are somewhat expensive, costing about Rs. 16 in Calcutta or Bombay.
Clipping.
Arabs and many country-breds carry such fine coats that they do not
require clipping, but most Australians and colonials do; and if the coat
is at all inclined to get long and thick, it certainly should be taken
off, for horse-clothing is so cheap that an extra rug can always be got.
Horses should not be clipped till the coat has "set," _i.e._ till the long
winter coat has grown, and no more hairs will come off when the hand is
rubbed over the skin. This is generally about the beginning of October in
Northern India. They will generally require clipping twice or three times
during the winter, or up to the middle of March. There are generally some
professional clippers in every station, who bring their own
clipping-machines, and charge about two or three rupees for a pony, and an
extra rupee for a horse each time; or, if there is not such an individual
about, permission can generally be obtained to have it done by any of the
cavalry regiments in the station. It should be remembered that horses
having just lost their coats will require an extra rug that night.
Cleaning the Sheath.
The owner must himself occasionally see that the horse's sheath is washed
out. "Syces" never think this necessary, and the part gets into a filthy,
dirty state, that in the summer months is likely to give rise to a
troublesome sore, called a "bursattee" ulcer. Some horses are very
troublesome to do this with, and it may be necessary to put on a twitch
("kinch mhal"); but this should always be done in the owner's presence.
Light in Stables.
With a new-comer, "syces" usually ask for oil to burn in a native
earthenware lamp (charragh) at night, but it is a thing I never allow. In
the first place, even if the lamp was kept burning, it is not required;
horses rest better in the dark. In the second, it is dangerous with so
much inflammable material about. In the third, the lamp will not be used
in the stable, but the "syce's" own house. If a light is ever required,
which is only on rare occasions, it is better to bring a lantern out of
the house; and in India there is always a hurricane-lantern to be found in
every house.
Fires in Verandahs.
"Syces" are very fond of lighting fires and making cooking places in the
verandah of the stable, but this I never allow, as it litters the place up
with cooking pots, and makes a great mess; also, it is dangerous. I always
make them carry on their cooking operations in the verandahs of their own
houses.