March 18th a cold, disagreeable storm commenced, lasting till the 21st;
it commenced with a drizzling rain, which finally, however, turned into
a stiff snow storm, and on the morning of the 21st it cleared off, the
snow lying on the ground six inches deep. All were now looking forward
to the time when we should pull up and leave for other parts.
March 23d, the snow had disappeared, much to our satisfaction. This day
was spent in issuing clothing to the regiment. They were now fully
prepared for the journey before them. The Twelfth at this time was the
largest regiment in the entire corps, and the finest in its general
appearance, as regards the men, their clothing, arms, equipments, &c.
Wednesday, 25th, we received marching orders.
Thursday, 26th, at seven, P.M., we struck our tents and remained in the
streets, waiting for orders to fall in. Meanwhile, fires were kindled,
and a general bonfire ensued; sticks, poles, boxes, and every thing
that would burn was scraped up and added to the flames. It being a cold,
chilly night, these fires proved very cheering and comfortable. At
eleven in the evening we were called upon to fall in. This was quickly
done; the regiment was formed, and we immediately proceeded to the
landing, and went aboard the steamer Long Island, and were soon on our
way, bidding farewell to Newport News, where we had spent many pleasant
hours, much to our own comfort individually, and with profit to the
regiment. The morning of the 26th we were steaming up the Chesapeake,
_en route_ for Baltimore.
Left the Chesapeake at six, P.M., entered the Petapsco, and at seven
were brought alongside the wharf, where we passed the night.
At six o'clock on the morning of the 27th we were ordered to sling
knapsacks. This done we filed off the boat, the regiment was formed, and
marching through the streets of the city, we stacked our arms opposite
the depot, and were to go aboard the cars as soon as the necessary
arrangements could be made. The boys were allowed to leave the ranks and
go where they chose. I went down street, and found there was plenty of
liquor to be had, and also that it was in _great demand_; many of the
boys were getting their canteens filled, &c.
The people of Baltimore were very friendly to us. As we marched through
the streets we met with cordial greetings; handkerchiefs were waved,
flags were displayed, &c. This was reciprocated by the regiment, who
answered back in deafening cheers.
We had our hands full after starting from Baltimore, in consequence of
the boys indulging too freely in "whiskey libations." They had seen no
liquor for some time, and seemed determined to make the most of this. At
twelve we commenced entering the cars, and at one P.M. the regiment
were all aboard. Some of the men were picked up and brought on in a
dilapidated condition, having been engaged in turning _somersaults_,
evidently having had help in this game, judging from the countenances of
some of them, which had materially changed, showing marks where the fist
had been too closely applied for the good of the recipient, resulting in
_crawls upon all four_, and other demonstrations of a like character.
With three or four exceptions, all of our company came aboard without
help, though I am sorry to say many of them were full of fight, and
commenced operations soon after entering the cars. It fell upon me to
stand at one end of the car, with orders to allow no one to go out,
under any pretence, as in the present condition of the men the result no
doubt would have been disastrous. Soon the uproar commenced, which
continued until darkness put a stop to it. There would be an occasional
lull in the tempest, as parties became exhausted.
Towards night, those who were brought aboard insensible, and who were
indebted to a few of us for their preservation--as the chances were that
they would have been stamped to pieces if we had not exerted ourselves
to save them--came to and _sailed_ in for their share. Such an uproar I
never heard among human beings, and it required our utmost exertions to
keep them from annihilating one another. Darkness came upon us at last,
the uproar partly ceased, and comparative quiet reigned in this
_menagerie_.
The train was started at two, P.M., and proceeded slowly throughout the
afternoon. Late in the evening we stopped at Little York, Penn., where
hot coffee and bread were served to such of the regiment as felt
disposed to partake. We were now fairly on our way, _en route_ for the
West, via Harrisburg. After leaving Little York we proceeded rapidly,
and the next morning, at eight o'clock, stopped at Lewistown, Penn.,
sixty miles to the west of Harrisburg.
March 28th, at half-past one, P.M., stopped at Altoona, where hot
coffee and white bread were served to us. At quarter-past two commenced
the ascent of the Alleghany Mountains. Our train consisted of thirty
cars, drawn by a powerful locomotive. Upon commencing the ascent of the
mountain, two more were attached, one to the rear of the train, and one
ahead. The road is very crooked, and the train, as it moved slowly,
winding its way along the numerous curves, like some huge serpent,
presented to the eye of the beholder a novel and beautiful spectacle. In
many places we could look down into ravines several hundred feet in
depth, close beside the track, the sides of which were nearly
perpendicular; and upon the other hand the mountains would rise as high
above us. All along the road the mountains were covered with a heavy
growth of timber. Millions of logs, of all sizes, lay rotting upon the
ground, seeming ready to tumble upon us at any moment. This crossing
the Alleghanies presented features of a kind new to Rhode Islanders, and
was enjoyed by all who could appreciate the beauties of nature.
At half-past two, P.M., we passed through the tunnel at the summit and
commenced our descent. Passed Johnstown at six, and at twelve entered
Pittsburg. At half-past twelve, the morning of the 29th, the regiment
left the cars and marched to the City Hall, the general rendezvous for
supperless soldiers. We here found supper awaiting us, to which we
quickly introduced ourselves. Had white bread and butter, crackers,
pickles, apples and hot coffee served to us. We were also treated to
music from one of the city bands. Stopped an hour in the hall, when the
colonel, making a speech, thanking the Pittsburgians for their
hospitality, &c., we left, highly pleased with our entertainment. From
the hall we marched a short distance and _took lodgings_ under the
shelter of a large shed adjoining the depot, where some of us were so
fortunate as to get a short nap.
At six, A.M., rose from my downy bed, visited a saloon close by, had a
good wash, and through the kindness of a friend, a good breakfast of
potatoes, hot biscuit, beefsteak, coffee, &c. At half-past nine, A.M.,
the regiment entered the cars, and at ten the train started, crossing
the Alleghany River, _en route_ for Cincinnati, via Steubenville and
Columbus. I improved the little time I was in Pittsburg in looking about
me. I was somewhat surprised at the general appearance of the city. I
had often heard it spoken of as a dirty place. We often hear it called
the city of "Eternal Smoke." This proceeds from the numerous forges,
furnaces, and so on, which abound in the city, its principal business
being the working of iron, for which it is celebrated. In connection
with its business I had pictured in imagination a collection of low,
heavy buildings and dilapidated houses, all of the color of smoke.
Instead of this, I found a place of great beauty and interest. Many of
the buildings in the business portion of the city were four and five
stories high, brick and stone being the material used. All of the
buildings were neat in appearance, and many of them models of taste and
beauty in their architecture. I saw very fine looking churches in this
place. Owing to our short stay here, I cannot enter into a description,
but judging from what I saw, should think it a place of great wealth,
uncommon beauty and interest. We passed through Steubenville, Ohio, at
two, P.M. At the village of Means, a short distance beyond, halted for
coffee. Halted again at the village of Newcomerstown, at seven, P.M.,
at the village of Cheshocton, at nine, and at the city of Newark at
twelve. All along through these villages we were warmly welcomed by the
inhabitants. The ladies ran to meet us as we came to a halt. Many of
them brought bread, pies and apples to the soldiers. Some of the boys
were the recipients of little tokens of affection, in the shape of
kisses. Relative to the kisses, "Freely as you receive, freely give,"
was the rule on the part of the boys. While passing through these
villages, for my share, I received an apple and a slice of white bread
and sauce.
Monday, 30th, at two in the morning, the train came to a halt again, and
upon making inquiry, I learned we had arrived at Columbus, the capital
of the State. Here we found refreshments for the whole regiment awaiting
us. White bread was brought into the cars and given to those who wished
it. Before the coffee could be brought to us, our colonel, thinking the
regiment needed rest more than coffee and bread, (many of them being
asleep at the time,) ordered the train to pass on. Not having a good
chance to sleep myself, I being ready to eat and drink all I could get,
I secured four loaves of the bread, and finding the coffee was in the
depot, I hastened from the cars and was in time to fill my canteen.
At seven, A.M., we passed through Zenia, where the train stopped long
enough for us to wash up and look about us. Starting from here, at ten,
A.M., we made a halt in Miami Valley, at a little village, where we
remained until noon. At the village of Morrow we stopped four hours.
This delay was owing to a train ahead of us smashing up, obliging us to
wait till the track could be cleared. At five, P.M., we started again,
and at seven entered the city of Cincinnati. After a delay of an hour we
alighted from the cars and soon after proceeded to the Fifth Street
Market, where supper was provided us. Our refreshments were the same as
those we had at Pittsburg minus the music. At nine, P.M., we retired
from the hall, after acknowledging our thanks by three deafening cheers,
and marched immediately to the boat, which we found awaiting us, and at
ten, P.M., were across the Ohio and standing on Kentucky soil. We
landed in Covington, a place opposite Cincinnati. At eleven, we turned
in for the night, occupying the floor of an old, dilapidated shed, near
the depot.
Tuesday, 31st, our colonel endeavored to get us a breakfast for the
regiment at this place, but was unsuccessful. Our haversacks furnished
us a breakfast at this place. We were delayed here until one, P.M.,
when we again took the cars and were soon hurrying on, _en route_ for
Lexington. Passed through the town of Belmont at four, and arrived at
Lexington at nine in the evening. Here we had arrived, we learned, at
the end of our journey. We took up our quarters for the night in the
cars and about the depot.
Wednesday, April 1st, turned out at an early hour, kindled fires, made
coffee and took our breakfast. The regiment was not called upon to fall
in until half-past eight, A.M. Meanwhile I took the opportunity to
visit the grave and monument of Henry Clay, which are in the cemetery a
short distance from the depot. The monument is very large, and upon the
top of the tall shaft stands a statue of the departed statesman. His
grave is about forty rods from the monument. It was pointed out to me by
one familiar with the spot. It is ten feet north of the monument erected
by him to the memory of his mother, Mrs. Elizabeth Clay, formerly
Watkins. There are no stones to mark the spot where he lies, as his
remains will undoubtedly soon be removed to the vault prepared for them,
at the base of the monument. Finding some coffee beans, as they call
them here, upon the grave, and which grew upon a tree overshading it, I
secured them for a memento. I also visited the place allowed for the
burial of soldiers who die in the hospitals here. The space allotted is
upon an eminence, and the manner of burying is novel and interesting.
The graves were arranged in circles, the first circle enclosing a space
twenty feet in diameter, with the foot of the grave towards the space,
and the head outwards. The second circle outside of this, and so on.
There were several circles already finished. The space is reserved for
the erection of a monument at some future time. There are many fine
specimens of sculpture in this cemetery, and monuments in great
profusion. At half-past eight we were called upon to fall in, and
immediately marched to our encampment. This was situated upon the Fair
Grounds, three-quarters of a mile from the city. It was a beautiful
situation, amid a grove of black walnuts and maples, commanding a fine
view of the surrounding country, which includes many interesting
localities. The Ashland Estate, well known as the residence of Henry
Clay, is but a mile from our camp. This estate is very large, comprising
originally one thousand acres.
Thursday, April 2d, I started on a visit to this place. Just before
reaching the house we came upon two children, a boy and a girl, who were
playing in a grove adjoining. They were about ten or twelve years of
age. Upon coming up to them to make some inquiry, I noticed in the
features of each a striking resemblance of the man whose memory we hold
in reverence. Upon making inquiry, I learned they were grand children of
Henry Clay. Their father, James Clay, was absent, holding a high
position in the rebel army; his family occupying the homestead. It was a
very warm, pleasant day, and the whole family, which consisted of the
mother and two other younger children, were busying themselves
out-doors, and looking at the men who were employed at the time of our
visit, in the garden. The wife of James Clay is a woman apparently about
thirty years of age, in height rather below the average; has black eyes
and hair, is of a dark complexion, and without doubt in her younger days
was considered handsome. Her countenance bears the traces of grief, and
in the absence of her husband, she is no doubt seeing trouble. I had a
talk with one of the men respecting the family. He showed me the house
he lived in, which is situated on the estate, and was rented to him by
Mrs. Clay the year before. He said he was a Union man, and thought it
best she should understand it so, before he occupied the premises. He
therefore told her. All she told him was that she rented the house for
the money. Whether her husband's course is approved of by her or not, he
could not ascertain, as she keeps her own counsels. I was told the whole
family since the death of the honored parent, which occurred some eight
years ago, have dressed in black. Mrs. Clay was dressed in a full suit
of deep mourning. In connection with her husband's position at the
present time, I thought the dress very appropriate.
We were allowed the privilege of going about the premises. I learned
that the house occupied by the elder Clay had, since his decease, been
removed, giving place to one more modern in its style of architecture.
There has been no alteration made in the outbuildings, of which there
are quite a number. The house is a very fine building, built of brick,
with free-stone cornices, window caps, &c. The lawn is very spacious;
around the outer edge is a carriage road, and upon either side of this
is a row of trees. The principal kinds are hemlock, firs and black
walnuts, most of them of large size. Scattered about the lawn in great
profusion are others of different kinds. Alongside the carriage road
were a few neglected flower beds. Finding some of them in bloom, I
culled one and sent it home as a memento of my visit to this celebrated
estate.
After a short stay here, we returned to camp. On our way back we passed
the residence of John Clay, and took the opportunity of visiting his
stables, and seeing the horses owned by him, he being reputed the owner
of some of the finest horses in the State. We found the stables easy of
access, several negroes being in charge, who were willing to show us
about the premises. This Clay is quite a sporting character; has a race
course of his own, and makes a business of rearing and racing horses.
Those we saw were the finest he had. One of them, a bright bay mare,
named Edgar, is said to have run her mile in one minute forty-six
seconds. Those I saw were all trained to running. On our way from the
stables we passed the house. Being hungry, I inquired of a negro if he
could find us something to eat. He took us up to the house and asked the
inmates of the kitchen, which consisted of three negroes, one man and
two women, if they could do any thing for us. The man said that Mr. Clay
was sick, and had refused several before us. Finding we would accept of
a johnny-cake which was cooking upon the stove, he took it off and gave
it to us. The widow of Henry Clay resides at this place with her son.
She is now in her eighty-third year, is very feeble, and will soon
follow her lamented husband to the tomb. From here, returning to camp,
we stopped to see a herd of mules that had just been turned loose, and
who were capering and cutting around at a break-neck rate. Occasionally
one would stop and let fly a pair of heels, making all crack again. I
could not see as there was any damage done, however. Oftentimes two or
three, while upon the full run, would go down upon the ground, and
coming up again, run as fast in another direction. Such thumps as they
gave one another would kill any thing but a mule. At one, P.M., I
reached camp, much pleased with my journey.
Sunday, April 5th, I attended church in the city, in company with two or
three hundred of the regiment. Monday, 6th, signed pay-roll, and the
next day, the 7th, were paid off, receiving our pay up to the 1st of
March. We had been in camp here a week, and were getting pretty well
established. Our quartermaster, J. L. Clark, was left at Newport News to
settle up affairs there, and then was to follow us with the major part
of the luggage. At this time, April 7th, he had not reached us. Through
some one's fault, we were on short allowance while at this place, and as
we begun to live again, received marching orders.
Wednesday, the 8th, broke camp, and started on our march at eight, A.M.,
accompanied by the rest of the brigade. It was a warm, pleasant
morning. We passed through the city, and took the road in the direction
of Winchester, and after a very severe march of twenty-two miles, we
reached our encampment, which was situated two miles south of this
village, at half-past seven in the evening. This was a hard day's march
for the first brigade. The road over which we passed, ran in a
south-easterly direction from Lexington, in a straight line. Underneath
the surface of the ground are ledges, which abound in this part of the
country, of slate and sandstone. These are easily worked, and are the
material used in making roads. The stone is broken in small pieces,
which in course of time become fine, making an excellent thoroughfare.
The road throughout its whole length was made after this manner. Owing
to the material used in making and repairing, (every little way having
to walk over stones lately carried on,) it was very hard for the feet. I
have not been able to learn that there was any necessity of our making
this two days' march in one, except perhaps to gratify the caprice of
Col. Griffin of the Ninth New Hampshire, who commanded the brigade in
the absence of Gen. Naglee. But a small portion of the brigade managed
to reach camp the night of the 8th. Many of the men carried heavy
knapsacks, and were obliged to fall out. After marching a few miles, I
judged from the motion of things that they were intending to make the
march in one day. I therefore fell out, took off my boots, and put on a
pair of "whangs," so as to march as easy as possible.
Just before taking my place in the ranks again, I came across my chum,
who had dropped out to rest, his feet already blistered. As it would be
easier to march in the rear of the regiment, thereby avoiding the dust,
(it being a very dusty road withal,) and rest at his leisure, he had
made up his mind to do so. Our things being together, I kept him
company. After marching some sixteen miles this way, my companion, who
was about used up, halted until the baggage wagons came up with us, and
contrived to get his knapsack into one of them, and soon after found a
place for mine. This made it easier for us. The wagons belonged to the
brigade, and I was fortunate in getting my knapsack on one containing
baggage of the Twelfth Regiment. My companion, after our arrival in the
village, took his off and slung it on his back again. Finding the wagon
containing mine was to accompany our regiment, I concluded to let it
remain there. As soon as the wagon started, I seized hold of it, and by
that means contrived to keep up, the team some of the way going upon the
trot. We finally reached camp. I was about five minutes getting my
knapsack off the wagon, my blankets out of it, and in turning in. My
chum turned in for the night under a fence, about quarter of a mile in
the rear, being pretty much "played out."
Kentucky is the finest country I have seen yet. It had the same
appearance all the way from Lexington to Winchester. The soil to all
appearance is excellent, and easily cultivated. The surface of the
ground undulates in hill and dale, just enough to give relief and beauty
to the scenery. No stones upon the surface to add to the labor of its
cultivation. There are no underbrush growing in the woods here. This
adds greatly to the beauty of this country, every forest having the
appearance of the most beautiful groves, underneath which grass grows in
abundance. This gives Kentucky the advantage over any State thus far,
that I have seen; and the first in rank, as a cattle producing country,
as every forest affords excellent pasturage for the herds of cattle,
mules, &c., which abound in this State. The fields are laid out large,
are well fenced, and a large part under cultivation. The houses are
scattering, being from half a mile to a mile apart, suggesting to a New
Englander the idea of others between, in the event of the war coming to
an end, together with the institution of slavery. God forbid that this
fair land should longer be blighted by this curse.
"Then conquer we must, when our cause it is just,
Let this be our motto: 'In God is our trust.'
And the star spangled banner, in triumph shall wave,
O'er the land of the free, and the home of the brave."