OTHER PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--THE FRENCH THEATRE.--THE CARNIVAL.--THE ST.
CHARLES, ETC.
I cannot undertake to describe the numerous public buildings which
adorn the city of Orleans. I will merely observe that the stranger
would be much entertained and instructed by visiting the Gas Works,
the Chapel of the Ursulines, St. Patrick's Church, the Cypress Grove
Cemetery, and other beautiful resting places of the dead; the Charity
Hospital, the Maison de Sante, the Marine Hospital, the Municipal
Hall, the Workhouses in the First and Second Municipalities, the
City Prisons, the City Hall, the Orleans Cotton Press, the Commercial
Exchange, the Merchants' Exchange, the Medical College, and many
others too numerous to mention.
A very great object of attraction at night is the Orleans Theatre, the
most conveniently arranged building, perhaps in America. With a
very commodious and elevated pit, with grated boxes on the sides
for persons desiring to be private, two tiers of boxes and one of
galleries above, the whole is so admirably arranged as to allow
spectators every privilege of seeing and hearing. The pieces performed
at this novel theatre are generally well selected operas, and
although the acting is in the French language, yet the pantomime is
so excellent and the costume so much to the life, that it requires but
little practice on the part of the Alabamian to unravel the plot
and become intensely engaged. Every kind of instrument necessary
in producing sweet and harmonious sounds, is to be found in the
orchestra, and the music is alternately melodious and grand. The
dress circle surpasses all others for the beauty and fashion which
it contains. It literally glows with diamonds and sparkling eyes!! In
front are seated ladies most magnificently dressed, from all parts of
the south and west, and among them sat the beautiful daughter of the
hero of Mexico! As the child of the captor of Monterey, she was the
object of attraction throughout the dress circle, and doubtless was
loved by all for the noble deeds of her brave and patriotic father.
On the sides of the circle are beauties still more richly attired, if
possible, but darker and more effeminate than the former, but
pretty and sweet beyond all description. They are the daughters of
Louisianians!
No theatre in the world can be better patronised. Every night it is
crowded with fashionable audiences. For weeks together seats at an
extravagant price are engaged far ahead. In going away from this
little world of gaiety and amusement, the visitor may justly conclude
that Frenchmen never get old! Here are men portly in appearance and
elegant in manners, whose heads are "silvered o'er with many winters,"
apparently sixty and seventy years of age, entering into the merits of
the play with spirits as gay and ardent as the young man of twenty. At
the conclusion of a fine act, they will rise upon their feet and
shout with rapture and delight, "bravo! bravo!! bravissimo!!! c'est
bien!!!!"
I shall continue to speak more frequently of the French and Spanish
population than of the native Americans, because, being the more novel
and strange, they are the most interesting. They have a great many
singular customs and attractive amusements. Among others, "Mardi-Gras,
or Shrove Tuesday," when the religious holidays are at an end, is
of some interest. I saw this ceremony under unfavorable auspices. It
rained the whole day, and the procession did not exceed an hundred,
who constantly appeared in small detachments, some riding on
horseback, others in open wagons and cabs, but many on foot; all
masked and most fantastically and even ridiculously dressed. I presume
the eminently pious portion of the Catholics do not engage in this
celebration, unless giving it a more serious and respectable turn,
for it struck me as I witnessed it as composed of persons of a low
and vulgar character. Every Mardi-Gras man has his pockets filled
with flour, and as he passes the well-dressed stranger, who excited
by curiosity gets near, throws handfuls upon him, to the amusement
of those bystanders who fortunately escape. One wagon in particular
contained eight hideous-looking objects, dressed in bear, panther and
buffalo skins, with horns of various descriptions on. Among them was
his Satanic Majesty, with the same old cloven feet, lashing tail, and
black skin. Those on foot fared badly, for scores of boys would follow
them up, and pelt them with sticks and mud, and in one instance I saw
a fellow stripped of his old woman's habiliments and mask, who looked
stupid and ridiculous to the laughing boys and spectators.
But while quitting a description of this poor celebration, once so
large and interesting, I must not fail to notice the grandest sight
my eyes ever beheld. I was standing on the gallery of the Verandah; in
front of me rose up high in the air the imposing and magnificent St.
Charles. On its granite gallery stood crowds of the finest race of
men upon the globe--below, the streets were full, all looking at the
Carnival. For four stories high, every window was full of beauty and
fashion. Never had the remark so often made to me before, been so
entirely convincing, that New Orleans contained more handsome ladies
and fine looking men than any city in the Union. Every thing in front
of the St. Charles is rich and inviting. The men all free and easy
and elegantly apparelled, with forms cast in Nature's best mould;
the ladies all gay, cheerful and beautiful; the cabs and coaches all
elegant, with the most dazzling caparisons covering the noble horses.
The eminent merchant, the learned jurist, the respectable planter, the
dashing young fellow, the officer of the army, all congregate before
the St. Charles, the best house in the world!