CHAPTER IV.

NEW ORLEANS IN 1847.--ITS EXTENT AND

SITUATION.--LAFAYETTE.--CARROLLTON, ETC.

Omitting an account of the many deadly quarrels which were constantly

fermented with the Indians--of the battles of the Louisianas with the

Spanish and English--of the horrible and unparalleled murder of twelve

of the principle citizens of Orleans, by the order of O'Reilly, the

Spanish commandant, who had invited them to one of his banquets--nay,

of a thousand interesting things connected with the history of this

romantic city, which could not have been embodied in these hasty

numbers, I proceed to consider its present condition and prospects.

The bend of land which sustains all this magnificence and wealth, is

very much like that opposite Montgomery. A citizen acquainted with

our localities, may very justly imagine New Orleans to commence on

the west side of the Alabama, below Jackson's Ferry, continuing on

by Bibb's gate and terminating just below town.--Opposite old Alabama

town he may suppose the city of Lafayette to commence, then, further

on, the town of Bouligny, and then Carrollton.

The city proper is, by the river, five miles long, and will average

three-fourths of a mile wide. Then commences Lafayette, which extends

up the river two miles further, and, as they are so intimately

connected and associated, it all may be considered as one vast place,

seven miles in extent. After a succession of splendid mansions, farms,

and other houses, the whole resembling a continued village, Bouligny

and Carrollton unite with the chain of commerce. A century from this

date, Orleans, like London, will reach out her arms and encompass

within her limits every town and hamlet for miles around. As London

swallowed up Westminster, Southwark, Lambeth, and Chelsea, so will

Lafayette, Bouligny, Carrollton, and others adjacent be lost in her

future immensity. It will then all be New Orleans, the largest city on

the continent of America, and perhaps in the world.

The foundation consists of a plain inclining from the river, and when

looking from the St. Charles to the Levee, the singular spectacle is

presented of ships and boats standing raised up before you, and the

little rivulet in the street, just after a rain, running in a smart

current by you and losing itself in the swamp, as if afraid to mingle

with the "Father of Waters." As health and cleanliness are greatly

promoted by this gentle inclined plain, it is most fortunate that

Orleans is so situated. In ancient times the inhabitants were either

amphibious or lived at great sufferance from the floods. But now they

are protected by the Levee. A stranger however, upon the impulse,

would think that protection uncertain. But if he would reflect for a

moment, he would wisely determine that it requires not a very strong

dyke to pen up the surplus water during a freshet, for the main

current is confined by immense banks reaching far, far below. To

render my position more palpable, suppose the river should suddenly

dry up, Orleans would then be standing on a bluff three hundred and

sixty feet high, for that is the depth of the river opposite the

city. The foundation, a low alluvial bottom, has been much improved by

draining and filling up. No building is erected without the foundation

is made firm by piling with long logs driven down with immense force;

but very massive buildings, even with this precaution, will continue

to settle. It is said that the St. Charles is two feet lower now than

formerly. Three great streets divide the city into municipalities.

Between Canal and Esplanade, lies the first Municipality, between

Esplanade and the lowest street on the outskirts, far down the river,

lies the Third Municipality; and between Canal and Felicity, is

the Second. They are wide and beautiful streets, running perfectly

straight from the river to the farthest back limits, serving not

only as boundaries for municipal purposes, but absolutely separating

different races. The everlasting Yankees, with their shrewdness and

enterprize, inhabit the Second Municipality; the wealthy French and

Spanish fill up the First, with a large mixture of native Americans;

but the Third Municipality is entirely French and Spanish. It was

impossible for me to ascertain how many streets run through the

city, but there are many. No fault can be found of the topography of

Orleans, and it is strange that the regularity of the thorough

fares should have been so well preserved under all the changes and

vicissitudes through which she has passed. Everything is of interest

here; even the names of the streets attract the notice of the visitor;

and as he rides along, he may trace the different races who have

formed and named them. He will pass through streets which the

descendants of Spain first laid out, such as Esplanade, Ferdinand

Casacalvo, Morales, and Perdido. Again his eye will glance at French

names, such as Josephine, Bourbon, Chartres, Notre Dame, Dauphin, and

Toulouse. Then there are various streets bearing the names of all the

saints known to the Catholic devotee. In respect to names very little

of Orleans has been Americanized. Occasionally you will meet with such

names as Commerce and Canal, which doubtless sound very vulgar to the

the French. But the master street of the world is the great Levee,

usually from two to five hundred feet wide from the river to the

buildings. From this great thoroughfare all others diverge, and it

is the greatest mart of its extent in the world. While I was there,

THIRTY-SIX THOUSAND BARRELS OF FLOUR were sold in a few hours! And

while this astonishing transfer was going on, thousands of other

produce and commodities were changing hands. Many years ago it

was used as a fashionable promenade to enjoy the breezes of the

Mississippi. Commerce has changed its character entirely. Now scenes

of the most intensely exciting character are upon the Levee. The

very air howls with an eternal din and noise. Drays and wagons of

all descriptions, loaded with the produce of every clime, move on

continually in one unbroken chain. Ships from every nation, whose

masts tower aloft in a dense forest for five miles, with thirty

thousand sailors and stevedores, busily loading and unloading, stand

in your view. Steamboats, and crafts of every make and shape, from

every river which empties into the Mississippi, are here mingling in

the strife of commerce. The rough and homely produce of the far and

cold Iowa--of the distant Wisconsin--of the black and stormy Northern

Lakes, is here thrown upon the Levee in hurry and confusion mingled

and mixed with the sweets and luxuries of the sunny tropics. Here,

too, the various races of men astonish one. The Kentuckian with an

honest and ruddy face; the Yankee with his shrewd and enterprising

look; the rich planter of Mississippi; the elegant and chivalrous

Carolinian; the sensible and honest citizen from the "Old North

State;" the lively, fine-looking, and smart Georgian; the talented and

handsome Virginian; the swarthy creole sugar planter; the rough hunter

from the gorges of the Rocky Mountains--all natives of the Union--all

freemen alike--all meet upon this common ground of LIBERTY and

COMMERCE. And this picture must be carried out with the children of

_adoption_. Here is also the dark and mysterious Spaniard puffing his

cigar and sending up volumes of smoke through his black imperials; the

gay and frisky Frenchman; the sturdy Dutchman; the son of Erin, and

the cunning Jew. A trite adage says that "it takes all kinds of people

to make a world;" verily, then, the Levee is a world.

Eight days in New-Orleans in February, 1847 · 第 4 / 9 章