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DEDICATION.
To WILLIAM RENSHAW, Esq., Champion of England,
this book is dedicated by his friend and pupil
the Author.
LAWN-TENNIS.
BY
JAMES DWIGHT.
[Illustration]
PUBLISHED BY
WRIGHT & DITSON, BOSTON, U. S. A.,
AND
“PASTIME” OFFICE, 28 PATERNOSTER ROW,
LONDON, E. C.
COPYRIGHT
1886,
By JAMES DWIGHT.
PREFACE.
There is at present no work on Lawn-Tennis written by any of the
well-known players or judges of the game, and it is with great
diffidence that I offer this book to fill the gap until something
better comes.
It is intended for beginners, and for those who have not had the
opportunity of seeing the best players and of playing against them.
To the better players it would be presumption for me to offer advice.
I should not, indeed, have ventured to write at all had I not had
unusual opportunities of studying the game against the best players,
and especially against the Champion, Mr. W. Renshaw, and his brother.
CONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAP. PAGE
PREFACE vii
I. HOW TO LEARN TO PLAY 1
II. THE COURT AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE GAME 6
III. THE SERVICE 12
IV. THE FIRST STROKE 18
V. THE STROKE 21
VI. THE VOLLEY 23
VII. THE HALF-VOLLEY 28
VIII. THE LOB 30
PART II.
I. THE GAME 32
II. MATCH PLAY 46
III. THE DOUBLE GAME 56
IV. LADIES’ AND GENTLEMEN’S DOUBLES 64
V. UMPIRES AND UMPIRING 68
VI. ODDS 71
VII. BISQUE 73
VIII. CASES AND DECISIONS 80
IX. LIST OF WINNERS 88
LAWN-TENNIS.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
HOW TO LEARN TO PLAY.
One is often asked the best method of learning to play. I fancy that
the best way, could one often adopt it, would be to let a marker, as
in a tennis-court, hit the balls gently to the beginner, pointing out
to him his mistakes, so that he might not acquire a bad style. If he
begins by going on to the lawn and playing a game, his only object
will be to get the balls over the net, and he will be almost sure to
fall into bad habits of play. This is, however, the most amusing way
to learn, and will probably always be the one in general use. If the
novice does adopt it, let him at least watch good players whenever he
can, not with any idea of trying their severe volleys, &c., but in
order to see the position of the feet and of the racket in play. When
he has learned to play fairly well, he should still watch good players
at every opportunity; but what he then needs to study is the position
in the court where they stand; when they go forward and when back,
and what balls they volley instead of playing off the ground. He will,
in this way, get some idea of the form which he should try to acquire.
Mr. E. L. Williams, in a recent article in the _Lawn-Tennis Magazine_,
advises playing against a wall, and I believe in the benefit obtained
from this sort of practice. In fact, I have often advised players to
try it. Any sort of a wall will do; the wall of a room, if there is
nothing better. Hit the ball quietly up against the wall, wait till it
has bounded and is just beginning to fall, then hit it as nearly as
possible in the same place. Always make a short step forward as you
hit, with the left foot in a forehanded stroke, and with the right in a
backhanded one. Try to hold the racket properly (see page 10), and do
not hit with a stiff arm. The shoulder, elbow, and wrist ought all to
be left free, and not held rigid. As soon as you can hit the ball up a
few times forehanded, try the same thing backhanded, and when you are
reasonably sure of your stroke, take every ball alternately fore and
backhanded. This will give you equal practice in both strokes, and will
also force you to place the ball each time. Add now a line over which
the ball must go; in a room a table or bureau will do very well, and,
if possible, mark out a small square in which the ball shall strike.
This may sound very childish to a beginner, but I am sure that very
valuable practice can be got in this way, and I have spent a great many
hours in a room at this occupation. After a time you should volley
every ball, first on one side and then on the other. Then half-volley,
and after that try all the different combinations: volley forehanded,
and half-volley backhanded, &c. Always stick to some definite plan, as
in that way you get practice in placing. There is another stroke that
can well be learned in this way. Hit the ball up against the wall so
that it will strike the ground on your left and go completely by you,
then step across and backward with your right foot, swing on the left
foot till your back is towards the wall, and try to return the ball by
a snap of your wrist. With practice, you will manage to return a ball
that has bounded five or six feet beyond you. Try also the same stroke
on the forehand side. You can get in this way alone more practice in
handling a racket, and in making the eye and hand work together, than
you are likely to get in ten times the length of time out of doors.
Ask some friend, who really knows, to tell you if you hold your racket
in the right way, and to point out to you any faults of style that you
may have. It is of the greatest importance not to handicap yourself
at the start by acquiring bad form. Good form is simply the making of
the stroke in the best way, so as to get the greatest effect with the
least exertion. While nothing can be more graceful than good form, no
one should make it his chief object to play gracefully; the result will
only be to make him look absurd.
When you begin to play games, do not try all the strokes that you see
made. Begin by playing quietly in the back of the court. Try simply to
get the ball over the net, and to place to one side or the other, and
to do this in good form, _i.e._, to hold the racket properly, and to
carry yourself in the right way. As you improve you can increase the
speed of your strokes, and can play closer to the side-lines. Remember
that a volleying game is harder to play, and you should learn to play
well off the ground before trying anything else. Above all things,
never half-volley. If you can return the ball in no other way, let it
go and lose the stroke. This may sound absurd, but I feel sure that
most young players lose more by habitually trying to take half-volleys
when there is no need of it, than they gain by any that they may make.
It is a stroke that should never be used if it is possible to avoid it.
If you make up your mind to let the ball go unless you can play it in
some other way, you will thus learn to avoid wanting to half-volley.
When you become a really good player, you can add this stroke to your
others, and you will not have got into the habit of using it too often.
It is a mistake to play long at a time. For real practice three sets
a day are quite enough. When practising for matches, you can play the
best of five sets three times a week. Almost all players play too much,
and by the middle of the season many of them are stale. Always try to
play with some one better than yourself, and take enough odds to make
him work to win. In the same way give all the odds that you can.
Remember, while playing, certain general principles. Don’t “fix”
yourself. Keep the knees a little bent, and your weight thrown forward
and on both feet, so that you can start in any direction. If the feet
are parallel it is impossible to start quickly. Always keep moving,
even if you do not intend to go anywhere. Play quietly and steadily
without any flourish, and try to win every stroke. A great many players
seem unable to keep steadily at work, and play a careless or slashing
stroke every now and then. This is a great mistake, and one often loses
a great deal by it. Try to acquire a habit of playing hard all the
time. The racket should be carried in both hands, for, if you let it
hang down, more time will be needed to get it across your body. Never
cut nor twist a ball except in service; it tends to make the ball
travel more slowly, and will deceive nobody. The underhand stroke puts
a little twist on the ball, but it is an over twist and not a side one.
Try to meet the ball fairly, _i.e._, to bring the racket against it in
the line of its flight; or, in other words, don’t hit across the ball.
Watch carefully your own weak points. Any good player ought to be able
to show them to you, and you should then try to improve your game where
it is weak. If you practise carefully and your only object is to learn,
there is no reason why you should not get into the second class. To be
among the very best players requires physical advantages, as well as
a stout heart and great interest in the game. One is often advised to
pretend to put a ball in one place and then to put it in another. I
can assure you that it does not pay. Too many strokes are lost by it.
Exactly the same thing is true about pretending to go to one side and
then coming back again. One is apt to get off one’s balance in making
such a feint, and it is quite hard enough to get into position for a
ball without having to start the wrong way first.
It is well to observe the rules carefully in practice, or else they
may distract one’s attention in a match. This is especially true of
the service. Frequently foot-faulting in a match spoils your service
altogether. In practice you should always see that the net is at the
right height, and should always use good balls. It is bad practice, and
is also very unsatisfactory, to play with bad balls. When the weather
is too bad to use good balls it is too bad to play at all.
CHAPTER II.
THE COURT AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE GAME.
The court is 78 ft. long. It is 27 ft. wide for the single game, and
36 ft. for the double game. At most club-grounds a measuring-chain is
used to mark out the court, but for a private court a chain is seldom
at hand. The easiest way to mark out a court without a chain is to
use two long measures. Select the place for the net; then measure 36
ft. across; at each end put in a peg, and over each peg slip the ring
of a measure. On one measure take 39 ft., and on the other 53 ft. ¾
in.; pull both taut, and the place where the two ends meet will be one
corner of the court. Put in a peg at 21 ft. from the net for the end
of the service-line. Next transpose the measures and repeat the same
process. This will give the other corner of the court, and at 21 ft.
will be the other end of the service-line, and one half of your court
is ready. Take exactly the same measures on the other side of the
net, and the measurement of your court is complete. The side-lines of
the single court are made by marking off 4 ft. 6 in. from each end of
the base-lines, and running lines parallel to the side-lines of the
double court from one base-line to the other. Everything necessary is
thus found except the central-line, which runs from the middle of one
service-line to the middle of the other. The posts of the net stand 3
ft. outside of the side-lines. If the court is intended for double play
only, the inner side-lines need not be carried farther from the net
than the service-lines. If a single court only is to be marked out, the
diagonal is about 47 ft. 5 in., instead of 53 ft. ¾ in.
_Net._—The net should be bound along the top with heavy white cotton
or duck, to the depth of two or three inches. Without this binding it
is very difficult to see the top of the net in a bad light. The most
important points in a net are that the meshes should be too small to
allow a ball to pass through them, and that the twine should not be so
large as to obstruct the view of the opposite court.
_Shoes._—There is little to say about shoes, although one’s comfort
depends a great deal on them. They should be a little too large, with
the toes square or round, but never pointed. Those made of buckskin,
with leather straps over the toes, are the most comfortable. For the
soles no rubber compares with steel points—_i.e._, small nails about
five-eighths of an inch long, driven into the sole of the shoe, and
protruding from it about one-quarter to three-eighths of an inch.
Points injure the ground less than rubber, as to a great degree they
prevent slipping. For gravel or asphalt the best soles are made of very
soft red rubber, which lasts a long time and is very easy to the feet.
_Balls._—Ayres’s balls are used at every tournament of importance in
England, and, while this is the case, it is necessary for tournament
players to practise with them, though those of some other manufacturers
are quite as good for ordinary play.
_Rackets._—The choice of a racket is an important matter, and it is
also a difficult one. Young players seem to take pleasure in selecting
the most extraordinary rackets in a shop. Let me strongly advise them
to avoid all unusual handles, heads, or methods of stringing. All these
eccentricities are useless at the best. Nothing is so good as the
simplest form of racket, possessing an octagonal handle, and strung in
the usual way. Such a racket is used by all the better match-players in
England. Opinions differ as to what the exact size of the head should
be, but it is certain that there is nothing to be gained by having
it square or triangular. Again, the edges of the rim should not be
bevelled. It only weakens the frame, while it does not increase the
size of the playing face of a racket in the smallest degree. A ball
must be hit almost exactly in the centre of the racket to make a stroke
at all, for, if hit so near the edge that the bevelled rim can affect
it, it cannot possibly go any distance.
As regards the proper weight of a racket, 14½ oz. is heavy enough for
any one. I know of only two of the well-known players who use heavier
rackets than this. I should advise any one learning to play to get a
racket of 14¼ oz., and he can afterwards get one of 14½ oz. should he
feel that his first one is too light. There can be no question that a
light racket can be more easily brought round than a heavy one, and is
more easily controlled in every way. On the other hand, a racket must
have wood enough in the frame to make it perfectly unyielding when
striking a ball, and must be heavy enough to give an effective stroke.
These conditions are fulfilled in a racket of 14¼ to 14½ oz.; a
lighter one loses something in power, and a heavier one is unmanageable
for most men. One meets from time to time a player with a racket of 15
or 15½ oz., who shows it with pride, and explains that his wrist is so
strong that he requires an unusual racket. As a matter of fact, such a
player seldom uses his wrist at all, but rather he should be thankful
for the advantage that a good wrist gives him, instead of handicapping
himself by using an absurdly heavy racket. Almost more important than
the weight of the racket is its balance. By balance is meant the way in
which a racket hangs in the hand. Many rackets of 14 oz. feel as heavy
as others of 14½ oz. There is only one way of judging the balance, and
that is by holding the racket by the end of the handle, as if in actual
play, and trying how it comes up, and if it feels light or heavy. If it
comes up heavily, discard it at once and try another. Should it feel
light and easily managed, weigh it yourself, no matter whether the
weight is stamped on it or not. It may be that it felt well balanced
only because it was too light for use; but should it be found to weigh
14¼—14½ oz., the balance of it must be good. You should look carefully
at the workmanship and see that the wood is free from knots and cracks.
The grain should run evenly round the whole frame. Look especially at
the parts of the hoop, just above the centre-piece, for there it is
that a racket usually breaks. See also that the wedge is quite firm.
Choose a racket in which the wood is left in the natural state, as
varnish, &c., is often used to conceal a flaw.
A racket should be very nearly, if not quite, straight For myself,
I prefer one with a very slight bend to one side, but I can give no
reason for doing so.
No player should have a racket that he cannot hold absolutely stiff
from the very end of the handle. It is essential that a racket should
be light enough for him to volley with it at the very end of his reach
without any yielding in his wrist. If his wrist is not strong enough to
stand this strain with a racket of the usual weight, it is better for
him to use a lighter one. Though losing something in the severity of
his strokes, he will gain enough in sureness to more than make up for
it.
_How to hold the Racket_—One finds many different ways of holding the
racket among good players, and no exact rule has ever been received
as correct. Still, nearly all good players observe certain principles
in holding a racket. It is of the first importance that you should be
able to play a ball either fore- or back-handed without changing your
hold on the racket. If the hold is changed, there is always danger of
not getting the racket into the right position quickly enough. Such
a change must require a certain amount of time and attention, which
cannot well be spared in sharp play. The method that I should recommend
is as follows:—Lay the racket on a table with the smooth side up. Open
the hand with the thumb nearly at right angles to the fingers, and then
clasp the handle in such a way as to make its upper right edge (or what
would be its right edge if it were cut square) fit into the hollow of
the joint between the thumb and forefinger. In closing the fingers on
the handle, do not put them directly round it, but with the first joint
of each finger slanting up the handle, which will cause the top joints
to slant down the other way. The first two fingers should be a little
separated from the other fingers, and from each other. The end of the
handle should be well within the hand, with the little finger round
the leather rim. The thumb should not go round on to the ends of the
fingers, but should slope upwards across the upper side of the handle.
CHAPTER III.
SERVICE.
There are many ways in which the service can be delivered, but there is
only one in general use. This is the common overhand service delivered
from above the right shoulder, with or without twist on the ball.
To serve it, throw the ball up above the head as nearly as possible
to the height at which it is to be struck, and strike it as it pauses
before falling. Be careful to throw the ball well back and about on a
line with the ear. If it is thrown forward the service will probably
go into the net. In serving, the arm should be extended to almost its
full length, so as to get the greatest possible reach, and the shoulder
should be left free and not held stiff. When serving for speed only,
the face of the racket should be brought fairly against the ball with
no twist whatever, and the head of the racket should be made to come
over on the top of the ball by a sharp bend of the wrist. When trying
to put twist on the service, the racket should not meet the ball
fairly, but should pass round on the outside of it; this will give a
twist from right to left.
A very uncommon and difficult service can be given by throwing up the
ball a little to the left of one’s head, and carrying the racket round
on the left hand side of the ball, which will give a twist from left to
right. It is possible to put a heavy spin on the ball in this way, and
the service is effective, because it is very uncommon.
The next most important service is the underhand twist service
delivered either fore- or back-handed. To begin with the former, the
player should stand with the feet near together and his weight on the
right foot. The racket should be held nearly vertical and just to the
side of the right leg. The ball is dropped outside, and a little in
front of, the racket, which is brought forward against the ball, and
thus, by a quick inside turn of the wrist imparts a strong twist to it.
In striking, the weight is thrown forward on to the left foot, and a
short step forward with that foot is made to give pace to the service.
The service should not be delivered with a jerk, but by a quiet easy
swing; the only really quick motion being the turn of the racket round
the ball which gives the twist.
The backhanded underhand service is precisely similar, but is made on
the left side with the right foot forward. The ball is struck with the
rough side of the racket, and of course breaks from left to right.
There is only one other service that need be mentioned. The arm is at
right angles to the body, with the elbow slightly bent, and with the
head of the racket a little higher than the wrist. The ball should be
struck at the height of the shoulder, and the racket, after striking
the ball behind and a little on top, should open and pass forward
beneath it so as to impart pure cut to the ball. The ball does not rise
as much as with most services, and is often returned into the net when
the service is first tried. It is, however, useful only as a change
service, or to increase the chance of the ball’s shooting, on a wet
ground.
It should be distinctly understood that, in giving any service, the
weight of the body must be thrown forward at the time of striking;
otherwise no great speed can be obtained.
As the rule now requires the front foot to be on the base-line when
the ball is served, it is better to put the toe on the line before
serving. The weight of the body is held a little back, and is then
thrown forward as the ball is struck. It is not so easy to serve fast
in this way as it is by taking a step forward, but, on the other hand,
one seldom or never serves a foot fault.
Players too often forget the importance of placing the service. It is
very hard to make a good first stroke off a well-placed service, even
if it be a slow one. It is also important to conceal the direction of
the service as long as possible, so that one’s opponent may not know in
which corner of the court to expect it.
Having described the different kinds of service, we have next to
consider which of them should be used. The best working service is
probably the simple overhand service delivered without twist. It should
be placed down the central-line or across to the outer corner of the
court, and should be served as fast as possible. Should the first
service be a fault, it is the custom to serve again in the same way,
but at such a pace that there will be no danger of a second fault. We
are often told that a good player should cultivate a second service
which should be difficult to return, and at the same time should never
be a fault. I can only say that this is easier said than done, as no
one has yet succeeded in carrying it out. Again we are told that if a
player cannot serve a good second service, he would do better not to
try a very hard service the first time, but to serve a medium-paced
service which would be at once reasonably sure of going into court, and
yet be difficult to place on returning. I must dissent entirely from
this advice. I believe that in the single game and with good players
the service is a distinct disadvantage. The first service is oftener
a fault than not, and the second service can be placed almost as the
striker-out pleases. Why not then serve a medium service the first
time? Because no service, not even the very slow second service, can
be placed so sharply and accurately as a moderately fast one. It is
not fast enough to place the striker-out at a disadvantage, and yet
it comes back more quickly in the return than a slower one would do,
and therefore leaves the server less time to get into position for
the first return. Another difference, often overlooked, is, that a
player must “fix” himself to a certain extent to deliver a service of
even medium speed. He cannot, therefore, get into position as quickly
after a fairly fast service as after a slow one, and yet he will be
given less time to do so. Of course, he “fixes” himself for the first
very fast service, but, in this case, he expects to gain a distinct
advantage should his service be good. Off such a service it is very
difficult to make a good first stroke, and the server will probably
have a chance to come forward and finish the rest with a volley.
My own feeling is that the server must start at a disadvantage unless
he can deliver a severe first service. In any other case he must be
content to stay back, even outside his court, while his opponent is
forward, and his object for the time must be rather to save the rest[1]
than to win it.
[1] Or “rally” as it is sometimes improperly termed.
For a second service the forehanded underhand twist is useful,
especially when served into the left court. It is not in itself
difficult to return, but it keeps low, and will often twist a little
more or a little less than the striker-out expects, thus preventing him
from making a severe first stroke.
It sometimes pays to place such a service as near as possible to the
outer corner of the court, and to follow it up almost to the net. One
would think that there would be no difficulty in passing the server
as he comes forward, but it requires a very accurate first stroke to
do so. If the stroke is not well-placed, there will be a chance for a
sharp volley which should win the rest. It needs great quickness to
make such a volley, and no one should take such a risk unless he can
volley really well. In trying such a coup as this, he must take into
account what his chance of winning the rest will be if he gives an easy
second service and stays back. If he finds that he has been losing
twice out of three times on his second service, it is well worth while
to try going up, especially as it is very annoying to his adversary if
it comes off.
Many players have an idea that at 40-0 or at 40-15 it pays to serve
the second service at full speed, on the ground that at such a score
the risk is justifiable. This surely is a mistake. If the server keeps
to the game by which he has gained such an advantage he will probably
win one stroke in the next two or three. But if he sees fit to take
such liberties as to serve twice at full speed he will probably find
the score level before he knows it, and his opponent playing with
increasing confidence.
I should strongly advise a player to learn thoroughly the reverse
overhand service, not only that it is unusual and effective, but
because one looks to the left to serve it. You can in this way serve
overhand, no matter where the sun may be. With the sun on the right
the common overhand service is nearly useless, because the danger of
looking at the sun is so great. You may get the service over all right
and then be quite unable to see the return.
CHAPTER IV.
FIRST STROKE.
By first stroke is meant the return of the service. I may safely say
that more depends on this stroke than on any other. If the first stroke
is good, the striker-out should have a decided advantage; if bad,
he is almost at the server’s mercy. What the first stroke should be
depends on the service and on the skill of the opponent. Off a very
fast service it is difficult to make a good first stroke, because the
slightest mistake will be enough to send the ball into the net or out
of court. If, however, the first stroke is made exactly right, it is
more crushing in proportion to the speed of the service. The server has
had to fix himself to give a very fast service, and no time is left him
to recover for the return. The difficulty of a very severe return of a
very fast service is so great that it must be looked on as fortunate,
even among good players. It is always very hard to foresee in just what
place the service will pitch, and, therefore, the striker-out cannot
prepare himself for any particular stroke. He must be ready to return
the ball; that is the first point. For the rest, he must return it as
severely as he safely can, and into that part of the court where it
will most readily go. By this I do not mean that the service should be
returned purposely into the middle of the court, but every fast ball
is more naturally returned in one direction than in another, and all
I advise is that a very fast service should be returned into whatever
part of the court it is easiest to put it. If the first service comes
off and is very fast, it will almost always give the advantage, and
the striker-out must be content to yield the position and to play for
safety.
Very different is the case with the second service. The server is no
longer trying for an advantage, and the striker-out can choose the way
in which he will begin the attack. The server will now probably be
far back in the court—about the middle of the base-line or a little
behind it—and the chances are that he will succeed in returning the
first stroke, no matter where it may be placed. It would, therefore,
require an unusually severe stroke to finish the rest at once, and it
is running too great a risk to attempt such a stroke. The ball should
be played sharply down the side-line or across the court to the farther
side-line, so as to put the server on the defensive at the start. Of
this I shall speak more fully in treating of the “game”; at present I
shall only try to explain what strokes there are to use.
1.—The most common and, perhaps, the safest stroke is to play the ball
down the side-line into the corner, especially when the service has
been into the right court, as this brings the return into the backhand
corner, and few players are as good back- as fore-handed.
2.—One can also return diagonally across the court to the far corner.
This stroke should be played very hard, for if made slowly there is a
chance for an easy return. Moreover, if time is given him, the server
may come forward and meet the ball in the middle of the court and kill
it by a sharp volley. For this reason it is better not to play this
stroke if the server is coming up, but to play either Nos. 1 or 3.
3.—There is another stroke, and the most difficult of all. It is to
play the ball slowly across the court to the farther side-line. The
ball should strike the ground as near to the net as possible, so that a
player who is coming forward cannot reach it before it has bounded and
passed on across the side-line. If made correctly, there is no answer
to the stroke, except a half-volley. It is an essential part of the
stroke that it should be played very slowly, or else the ball must go
out of court.
4.—Sometimes, but very seldom, one has to lob the first stroke; for
instance, when the first service has been very severe, and the server
has followed it up close, one may be unable to make a good stroke to
one side of the court, and, if so, it is best to lob.
Again, the server will at times follow up his second service, and, if
he gets very close, the safest stroke will be a lob over his head into
the back of the court.
CHAPTER V.
THE STROKE.
By stroke, I mean the motion with which a ball is returned off the
ground. Of course, all balls cannot be played in the same way; that
must depend on how they come, and on the hardness of the ground. As a
rule, however, a player can choose in which of two ways he will play
the ball. He can take the ball at the top of its bound, in which case
the head of the racket is held a little higher than the hand, and the
racket itself is nearly horizontal. The stroke is made with the forearm
and wrist, and the arm is straightened as the ball is struck.
The other method is to let the ball fall till within a foot or so of
the ground, and then, so to speak, to lift it over the net. The racket
is held upright, with the head a little back and the hand forward. The
ball is taken beside, and a little in front of, the right foot, and a
short step forward is made with the left. In striking, the racket is
raised, not from the shoulder, but from the elbow, and the wrist is
bent backward. The direction of the ball is given by turning the wrist
at the moment of striking, and for this reason it is very difficult
for one’s opponent to foresee where the ball will be put. I should
explain that the stroke is not meant to be a “slam,” but a quiet,
regular stroke, whose strength lies less in its speed than in its
accuracy, and in the difficulty of foreseeing its direction.
Of the two strokes I much prefer the second one. It gives one’s
opponent more time to place himself, but, on the other hand, one gains
both in accuracy and severity of stroke, and can also change the
direction of the ball at the last moment.
On a very hard ground the horizontal stroke is the more common, because
the ball rises so high that one would have to go very far back in the
court to play it with a vertical racket, and in doing so would lose his
position. On a slow ground, the chance for the second stroke occurs all
the time.
CHAPTER VI.
THE VOLLEY.
To become an adept at the game, the player must be able to volley well;
he must know how the stroke is made, and he must be able to make it,
no matter where the ball may come—high or low, right or left, straight
or dropping. One common principle applies to all volleys, namely, that
the ball must not be allowed to hit the racket, but the racket must
hit the ball, and a distinct stroke should be made. A step should
always be taken with the opposite foot, _i.e._, with the left foot in a
forehanded stroke, and with the right in a backhanded one.
As an example, take the ordinary forehand volley at about the height of
the shoulder (a very common stroke). The elbow should be away from the
body and not down by the side, the wrist a little bent upwards, and the
head of the racket above the hand. In striking, the weight is thrown
forward on to the left foot, which is brought out with a good step in
front of the right foot and a little across it. There is no preliminary
swing of the racket backward. The head of the racket should be brought
forward on to the ball with a sharp bend of the wrist, and the arm
should be straightened to nearly its full length. The racket should
not be checked suddenly after striking the ball, but should swing well
forward, and then by an easy motion the head will come up into the
left hand, where the centre-piece should always be carried between the
strokes. The elbow, shoulder, and wrist should all be left free, and
not held stiff while the stroke is made.
The backhand volley is made in much the same way. The elbow should be
raised and away from the body; the head of the racket should be just
over the left shoulder, and the stroke should be made by stepping
forward with the right foot, straightening the forearm, and bringing
the head of the racket sharply forward by bending the wrist. It is this
turn of the wrist at the last moment of the stroke that gives sharpness
and character to all volleys.
It is much easier to volley a ball at the height of the shoulder back
than forehanded, and it is worth while to remember this fact when
trying to pass a volleyer from the back of the court.
These two volleys are used with the ball from four to six feet from the
ground, both in coming forward from the back of the court, and, more
often, when already in position, and your opponent tries to pass you.
Both strokes are easy in themselves if the ball comes within reach and
if you can foresee on which side it is coming. The real difficulty lies
in getting into position for the stroke, and not in the stroke itself.
A more difficult ball to volley is one that is only a foot or so off
the ground. Such a ball is best volleyed forehanded, with a vertical
racket. The hand comes out directly in front of the body, and the
stroke is made almost entirely by the wrist. There should be little or
no swing of the racket beforehand.
A ball a little higher, that is, between waist and knee, cannot well be
volleyed in the same way. One must step to one side or the other to get
room to return it, and it is easier to play it backhanded. One should
step forward and bend well down to meet the ball and volley it with the
head of the racket a little above the hand.
A great deal of time is saved by these low volleys, and one is
sometimes caught while coming forward or going back in a position when
nothing else can be done. It is a stroke that a player should learn to
make as well as possible, but it is not one that he should use except
to gain an advantage by saving time, or when he can do nothing else.
We now come to a wholly different class of volleys, namely, those of
a dropping ball, as when a weak return is made off a fast service,
or more often when one player is lobbing to drive his opponent back.
In this class comes the “Smash,” which is simply a volley made very
hard, with all the joints of the arm free, so that as soon as the
stroke is started all control of the racket is lost. In a simple volley
the joints are not held stiff, but one retains control of the racket
throughout the stroke; in a smash one lets the racket go apparently at
random. It is not a stroke to play except when very close to the net,
and even then a more careful volley will usually be sufficient, and far
safer.
It is of this volley that I wish to speak, as the occasion for it
comes constantly. It must be made hard, it must be placed, and its
direction must not be shown till the last moment. Take the most common
case: you are just in front of the service-line, your opponent lobs
from the back of the court and the ball does not go very far beyond
the service-line. How are you to make the stroke? Of course the ball
may come in front or on either side, but it travels so slowly that you
can usually take it as you please, and it is best to do so forehanded.
You should stand with your feet slightly apart, and in striking should
take a short step forward, and a little across with your left foot.
The racket is held close to the body with the left hand round the
centre-piece till the ball comes within reach. Then lift the racket
quietly and strike without any swing backward; but the racket should
follow the ball after the stroke, and not be checked suddenly. The
whole stroke, from the time when the racket is lifted, should be made
without any pause. One often sees a player waiting for the ball with
his racket lifted; the effect is ridiculous, and, what is of more
importance, it is usually easy to tell where he means to put the ball.
The ball should be taken at about the same height as in service, but
decidedly more in front, because it is nearer the net. The wrist should
be bent forward at the end of the stroke to bring the head of the
racket down on top of the ball.
Any lob that comes near the middle of the court should be played
forehanded, but when a ball is much to the left of the central-line
it is better to play it backhanded, as it puts one too much out of
position to get on the other side of the ball. The stroke is played in
the same way as the forehanded one, except that the step is made with
the right foot and should be in front of the left, but not across it.
The easiest place to put the ball is into the backhand corner or
across to the farther side-line. Without taking his eyes off the ball,
the player can usually tell about where his opponent is, and can place
the stroke accordingly. In all such volleys he should make up his mind
just where he means to put the ball before he takes the step forward,
and he should not change it even if he sees that his intention is
discovered.
No rule can be given for placing the volley, but in any case the stroke
should be severe enough to prevent the next lob from being as good as
the last. If you do not gain a distinct advantage by the volley you are
pretty sure to be worse off next time. It is worth while to take a good
deal of risk in such a stroke, for the moment that you begin to play a
lob faintheartedly, you will be passed or driven back in a stroke or
two. One’s object should be to kill the ball, if that be possible; if
not, to place it so as to get an easier stroke next time. If you can do
neither one nor the other, you had better not volley the ball at all,
but go back and play a defensive game from the base-line. If you cannot
attack you must be ready to defend yourself, and the place to do that
is not in the middle of the court.
CHAPTER VII.
THE HALF-VOLLEY.
The half-volley is the prettiest stroke in lawn tennis; it often saves
valuable time, and it helps one out of many difficulties. There is only
one remark more to be made about it, and that is, never play it if
you can possibly avoid it. Unless played exactly right, it will give
an easy return, and will allow your opponent to gain the advantage in
position if he did not have it before. If he did, it will probably give
him a chance to “kill.”
The worst part of the stroke is that it is a very fascinating one, and
it is, therefore, played a great deal too often, especially by young
players.
The stroke consists in taking the ball just as it begins to rise after
striking the ground. It is simply a question of timing the ball. The
player cannot watch the ball as he strikes it, and he must trust to his
knowledge of the place where the ball will come. It is best made with
the racket as nearly vertical as possible, with a short step forward
and with a “lift,” or upward motion of the hand and forearm, at the end
of the stroke.
To return balls that have already passed, one should step across with
the opposite foot, and, stooping very low, should half-volley with a
snap of the wrist. In such a case the racket is nearly horizontal. The
great point is to time the ball so as to get it exactly in the middle
of the racket.
My advice would be never to use a half-volley if the ball could be
returned in any other way, and, if compelled to use it, to put pace on
the ball and play it as a fast stroke, and not as a slow one.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE LOB.
A lob is a ball tossed in the air so that it shall fall far back in the
court, and shall be out of reach of a player standing as far forward as
the service-line.
The object is, of course, to make a stroke that cannot be volleyed,
except from the back of the court, where the volley is seldom severe.
There are two kinds of lob—one with a low curve, tossed just high
enough to be out of reach, and the other tossed very high in the air
and meant to fall almost vertically.
The first kind is used only when one’s opponent is very far forward; in
fact, almost up to the net. The ball, being hit low, travels with some
speed, and therefore gives little time for a player to get back for it.
The other and more common kind of lob is used when one is at a
disadvantage, and is near the base-line or quite out of court. The
stroke is meant to gain time for one thing, and, if possible, to drive
a volleyer back. The higher the ball goes the more perpendicularly it
will fall, and the harder it will be to volley.
It is much easier to lob forehanded, and the ball should be taken well
in front of one, and to the right if possible. Always lob toward the
windward corner of the court, but if there is little or no wind one
should choose the backhand corner.
Remember that a lob must go back nearly to the base-line or it will
give an easy stroke.
PART II.
CHAPTER I.
THE GAME.
_Section I._
In the preceding pages I have tried to give some idea of the different
strokes and of the manner in which they are made. My object now is
to take the game as a whole, and to show in what cases the different
strokes should be used.
Before this can be done, we must speak of the different styles of game
that one meets. I do not refer to garden-party lawn-tennis, but to the
styles of the best match-players only.
Seven or eight years ago no one thought of volleying a ball that could
be easily played off the ground. The game consisted of carefully placed
strokes of medium pace, and the result was long, tedious rests of
twenty, forty, and even eighty returns. The first change in this game
was caused by the present champion, Mr. W. Renshaw, who conceived the
idea of going forward almost to the net and volleying everything that
he could reach. This game, though brilliant, was not wholly successful.
The volleyer came too close to the net and gave too easy a chance for
the ball to go over his head, and probably, too, the volley was not
then of sufficient strength. The net was at that time four feet high
at the posts, and the angle at which a ball could be volleyed was more
restricted than now.
A year later Mr. Renshaw had changed his game in an important point;
he no longer came close up, but volleyed from the service-line, or a
little in front of it. Complete success attended him, and his style of
game soon came to be received as the right one, and to be generally
played.
At that time the hitting from the back of the court was slow according
to modern ideas, and it was possible to follow up and volley almost
every ball without much danger of being passed. The introduction of
volleying brought about a change in the back-play. There was clearly no
use in careful placing if the volleyer was given time to get in front
of the ball. It thus became necessary to hit hard from the back of the
court as well as to place the return, and for the cases where this
could not be done, lobbing was brought into fashion.
The improvement in the back-play in its turn affected the volleying
game. With good placing and hard hitting it was no longer possible to
volley as many balls as before, and, as a rule, the volleyer tried to
make a severe stroke, which should put his opponent at a disadvantage
before coming forward to volley.
It is in this state that we find the game now. It seems a waste of time
to discuss the old question of “Volleying _v._ Back-play.” With the two
games pure and simple, and with no mixture of the two, I feel sure that
bad back-play will beat bad volleying, and that good volleying will win
against good back-play.
One does not, however, see good players confine themselves wholly to
either game. As I said just now, one cannot volley every ball, and one
needs to be able to make a severe stroke off the ground to get into
position to volley. This one can do only by skill in back-play. Every
well-known player of the present day believes that both back-play and
volleying are necessary for a successful game, and the question now is
not which to use, but how to mix the two.
I believe that the superiority of the champion lies mainly in the
completeness of his game, in his ability to play any kind of game that
may be required. Mr. Lawford no longer plays wholly from the back of
the court, but volleys a great deal, and very effectively too. The only
player who sticks completely to a back-game is Mr. Chipp, and he has
told me that he wishes that he could volley. On the other hand, perhaps
the most bigoted volleyer in the world is myself, and I wish most
sincerely that I knew how to take a ball off the ground.
It is not possible to lay down fixed rules for volleying certain balls
and letting others bound; were it so, all players would play the same
kind of game, and the difference between them would be only in speed
and accuracy. Every player must judge for himself if he can volley any
particular ball more effectively than he can play it off the ground.
Position is nearly everything in the present game, and a player’s first
object should be to get into his place; once there, the chances are
all in his favour. I do not mean that the player nearest to the net
has necessarily the best of it, that must depend on the last stroke
and on the place where his opponent is. If he comes up after making
a good stroke that has driven his opponent back to the base-line, he
has a great advantage, but if his last stroke has been slow and has
struck inside the service-line, he is almost certain to be passed, if
his opponent does not make a mistake. I cannot dwell enough on the fact
that there is no use in volleying unless a distinct advantage can be
gained by it, or, at the worst, that the back player must not have an
easier return than he had the time before. The moment that a volleyer
fails to make a severe or at least a well-placed stroke, he is at a
disadvantage, and would be better off in the back of the court than
where he is. It is seldom that the two positions can balance, so to
speak, and if a volleyer is not distinctly up, he is pretty sure to go
down. Of course I do not mean that every ball that is to be volleyed
should be smashed; far from it, but I do say that a volley should
always be played hard on to the base-line or across the court to the
side-line. If neither can be done, it is wrong to volley the ball at
all.
Smashing I hold in great disrespect. As a rule, it is a most unsafe
stroke, and, when it can be played without risk, a hard volley will
generally be just as good. It is a great satisfaction, both to the
gallery and to the player himself, to see a ball smashed through an
umbrella or a parasol, but it is an amusement that should be strictly
confined to exhibition matches.
Do not volley a very low ball if you can possibly help it. For
instance, one is coming forward, and meets a slow return that has
passed just over the net and is dropping fast. Such a ball must be
volleyed upwards to cross the net, and it will therefore be impossible
to make a severe return, and the stroke itself is a difficult one. Let
such a ball bound, unless time is of unusual value. Off the ground you
will probably be able to make a stroke that will give you a greater
advantage than if you had volleyed the ball instead of waiting.
A difficult but useful stroke is the volleying a ball near the ground
in the back part of the court. The player is going back, or, more
often, coming forward, and meets the ball about half-way between the
base-line and service-line. If he can volley it fairly well he can
follow up his stroke, and gain the advantage in position which he must
have yielded in going back to take the ball off the ground. One saves a
great deal of time and of exertion by such a volley, but it is a stroke
that cannot be recommended to any except a good volleyer.
One of the hardest balls to volley well is a lob. It is easy enough to
return it over the net, but, as I have been trying to explain, there
is little use in returning a ball slowly into the middle of the court.
I do not believe that it is right to smash a fairly good lob, but I
think that it should be volleyed carefully, but still hard, far back
in the court, and, if possible, into a corner. There is a long time to
think as a lob drops, and many players lose heart and decide to play
for safety instead of trying to kill the ball. As a matter of fact, it
is safer to hit fairly hard, and the moment that a player begins to hit
gently, for fear of putting the ball out of court, he descends to a
lower level as a player and diminishes his own chance of success.
Speaking of returning lobs brings me to the question of lobbing, as
distinguished from low play. There is undoubtedly a prejudice against
lobbing, and a feeling that the low hitting makes the finer game. With
this I have nothing to do. I am simply looking for the best game that
one can play to win.
I believe firmly in low hard hitting down the lines or across the court
when one’s opponent is not quite in position, as, for instance, when
he is just coming up, or has had a hard ball to play and has not yet
recovered himself. If there is a good chance to pass him, try to do so
by all means. If you cannot pass him but can make a stroke that cannot
be volleyed hard, in fact, can only be stopped, try it, and the next
stroke you can probably pass him.
When, however, one is in the extreme back part of the court, especially
in the middle, the chance of passing a good volleyer seems to me to
be small. If one is in a corner of the court, one has two strokes to
choose from, one down the side-line and the other across the court.
If the volleyer does not foresee which stroke will be played, it is
unlikely that he can do more than save the ball. But, as just said, if
he is in the middle of the base-line, the angle at which the forward
player can be passed is very small, and the chances are that the ball
will be killed. In such a case I believe that it is good play to lob.
It is worth remembering this fact, that it is harder for your opponent
to pass you from the middle of the base-line than from the corners of
the court. With a strong back-player against you, if you do not get a
chance to make a severe stroke into the corner, and have got to return
the ball slowly, you will be safer if you return it to the middle of
the base-line.
A great objection to lobbing is, that much depends on the weather, and,
if there is a strong wind, it will be at a great disadvantage. Of
course the wind will affect low hitting as well, but not to the same
degree. When lobbing in a wind, always lob to the windward corner, as,
after all, the main point with a lob is to put it anywhere in the back
part of the court.
If you see that your opponent hesitates to hit a lob hard, be ready
to go in the moment the chance comes. It usually is easy to tell if
a player intends to stop a lob instead of hitting it, and it is well
worth while to take some risk in running up to volley his return. He
will probably be too far forward in the court to return your volley
well, even if he gets it at all.
If your opponent clearly does not play lobs well, lob whenever there
is the slightest doubt of passing him, especially if the sun is in
his eyes. If on the other hand he hits your lobs back hard into the
corners, it is better not to resort to them unless you can do nothing
else.
After saying so much in favour of lobbing, I must add that, though I
use the stroke a great deal myself, I believe that a player should play
low, if any chance is given him to do so.
If you do play low, don’t play directly down the middle of the court if
your opponent is standing there. It is much better to take a greater
risk and play for the side-lines. Remember that it is usually easier to
pass a volleyer on his forehand side. Remember, also, that the easiest
ball to volley is one hit low and hard, because it comes in nearly a
straight line. For this reason, especially when a volleyer is coming
forward, the most difficult stroke that you can give him to volley
is one hit slowly enough to drop low before he can reach it. If you
can make him half-volley there will probably be a chance to come in
yourself.
It seems to me a mistake to hit as hard as one can in trying to pass
a volleyer. One succeeds more often by accurate placing, and by
concealing the direction of the stroke till the last moment, than by
its actual speed. Of course, a fast stroke will give one’s opponent
less time to reach it, but the risk of the ball going into the net
or out of court is increased out of proportion to the gain. It is
surprising to see how easily a slow stroke will pass a volleyer if he
does not know on which side it is coming. Combined speed and placing
are perfection, but the placing should be cultivated first, and the
speed increased as one improves.
_Section II._
Let us now start as if beginning a game, and we will take the routine
points as they arise.
To serve: Stand nearly near the middle of the base-line, a yard, or at
the most two yards, from the centre. In this position there is a larger
angle, inside of which the service can be placed, than if you stood at
one end of the base-line, and, moreover, you are in better position to
meet the first stroke.
If your first service is a fast one and is good, follow it up if you
can, and volley the return. But remember that your volley must be
severe enough to put your opponent at a decided disadvantage, or he
will probably pass you with the next stroke.
If your first service is a fault, serve again more slowly. You cannot
put much speed into your second service, but you can place it. Try
to serve well back to the service-line, and place it so that your
opponent will have to play it backhanded, or step to one side before
returning it. I do not mean that this placing will produce any great
results, but it will tend to diminish the severity of the first stroke.
As soon as you have served, get back just outside of the court, or, if
the ground is low, stand on the base-line and a very little to the left
of the middle. The first stroke is more often put into your backhand
corner than anywhere else; few players are quite as strong backhanded,
and can, therefore, afford less time in reaching the ball.
One word as to position. It is impossible to start quickly if your
feet are parallel. Stand with the heels about a foot apart, the toes a
little turned out, and every joint slightly bent. The racket should be
close to the body, with the left hand round the centre-piece.
You are now on the defensive, and your opponent will, no doubt, have
come forward in front of the service-line. In this position, unless the
first stroke has been a weak one, you can hardly hope to win the rest
off your first return; it is rather a time to play for safety. If you
can do so with a fair chance of success, try a fast stroke down the
side-line. If your opponent fails to volley it well, you may hope to
pass him next time. I cannot advise trying to cross him on the first
return; he has had time to place himself, and if he is not deceived
about your stroke, he ought to kill it. If you see no good chance to
play down the lines, the best thing to do is to lob. Lob as high as you
safely can, so that the ball shall drop almost vertically. Stay back
outside of the base-line and wait for your opponent to volley your lob.
If he hits it hard, probably you can do little else than lob again. If
he simply stops it, you may be able to go in and pass him; if not, lob
again and go up and volley his return. This is a winning stroke if your
opponent is afraid to let out at a lob.
Where you cannot do this there is nothing to do except to lob until you
can get a chance to make a low stroke, off which you can get forward.
Don’t be too anxious to go forward, but if there is any chance to do
so, take it at once. Remember that in lobbing you are on the defensive,
and that you want to reverse the positions the moment you can.
To return the service, stand completely out of court if the ground is
fast; if slow, stand on the base-line. It is much better to be too far
back than not far enough. It is easy to come forward, and in coming
forward you naturally throw your weight into the stroke. When going
back it is very difficult to strike properly, because you have to stop
suddenly and throw your weight forward. You are seldom steady on your
feet when going back, and in any case your weight is not on the ball.
Do not go too far to one side to receive the service, for you may have
to step in either direction. One can actually reach farther backhanded
than forehanded, but few players can make the backhand stroke as well.
If the first service into the right-hand court is good, the best
working return is probably the one down the side-line into the backhand
corner. Follow the stroke up at once, and take your place a yard or two
in front of the service-line.
Your opponent may try to cross you; he may play down the side-line or
he may lob. The hardest stroke for you to return will be the one down
your right side-line, but most players find it a difficult return
to make, and prefer to play across the court. If you see that the
ball is coming across, step forward two or three paces and volley it
hard backhanded down into the forehand corner. If it comes down your
side-line, do not come farther up for it, but volley it back down the
same side-line, unless you are sure that you can play it across-court
before your opponent can reach it. All cross-court strokes, unless very
well made, are dangerous, as they allow one’s opponent to come forward,
and if he reaches them he will have the best of the position.
Should your adversary lob, walk slowly back with the ball and volley
it quietly, but hard, into the back of the court. Other things being
equal, the backhand corner is the best place into which to return a
lob. If your opponent lingers at all in the left-hand side of his
court, volley directly across to the forehand end of the service-line.
Don’t be afraid to hit a lob. There is really no half-way; if you don’t
make a good stroke off it, your opponent will probably pass you.
In making these suggestions as to the strokes to play in special cases,
I am going as far as I see my way to do in pure theory. For the rest, I
can only call attention to a few general principles.
Don’t stand still anywhere in the court. Keep in motion all the time,
for it is far easier to start quickly if you do not “fix” yourself.
The best example is a marker in a tennis or racket court; he seldom is
running, and yet he is almost always where the ball comes. A part of
this is no doubt due to his judgment, but a great deal comes from never
standing quite still.
Don’t slam at a ball. It is very common to see players “slog” at a
fault or at a ball that has struck out of court. It is a great mistake
and puts you off your stroke. A very common fault, if one is running
for a hard ball that can only just be reached, is to hit at it as hard
as one can. The chances are immensely against such a stroke going over
the net, while if the racket were simply held in the way the ball would
go back.
Don’t give up a rest till it is lost. Try to get the ball back even if
it seems to be useless. There is always a chance that it may be missed.
Don’t be deceived by a ball coming over the net, or striking inside the
court when you do not expect it. Take it for granted that every ball
must be returned.
Never drop a ball short. It is a very tempting stroke, and at times
very effective, but one loses a great many strokes in trying it. In
almost every case the ball could be killed as well by a hard stroke,
and the danger of putting it into the net would be much less. It is
very difficult to hit a ball so slowly that it will just go over the
net, and if it goes a little too far one’s opponent comes forward to
meet it, and can, as a rule, place it wherever he pleases. I play the
stroke at times, myself, and each time vow that I will never try it
again.
A necessary part of a good player is decision, and the power of making
up his mind quickly. Nowhere is this so necessary as in following up
the service. If you mean to go up, don’t hesitate for an instant, take
the chances and go, and don’t stop half-way. Don’t go up a little way
and then wait to see what will happen; you will not be far enough
forward to volley, nor far enough back to play off the ground. It
puts you in a part of the court where you should never be, namely,
somewhere between the base-line and the service-line. The exact
position of this forbidden place depends on the speed of the ground.
It is at such a distance from the net that the ball comes to you just
above the ground, so that you are forced to make a difficult volley
or a half-volley. You are not in position for volleying and would be
better off farther back.
It is very hard to say exactly where one should stand to volley.
The typical place seems to me to be a yard or so in front of the
service-line, and, if anything, nearer still. The closer the player
is to the net, the less ground he has to cover. Imagine a player
standing on the base-line, and imagine a line drawn from him to each
end of the opposite service-line. These two lines represent the two
most widely-divergent strokes that he can make. If now you stand on
the service-line you have to cover 27 ft.; on the base-line 35 ft.;
half-way from the service-line to the net, 22 ft.; and at the net
only 17 ft. In reality, the amount of space you will have to cover is
less, as you cannot make a fast stroke without its going beyond the
service-line. Thus the nearer a player is to the net the less space he
leaves his opponent to place the ball in, but, on the other hand, the
quicker he himself must be to judge and reach the ball. It is a great
gain if you can volley the ball while it is still above the level of
the net, as it can then be volleyed downward. If you allow the ball to
drop much, you have got to volley upwards to get it over the net, and
there can be little severity in your stroke, which moreover itself is
a more difficult one to make. Again, the sooner you meet the ball, the
less time you give your opponent to recover from his last stroke and
to prepare himself for the return. For myself, I am always ready to
take a good deal of risk in order to stand near enough to make a severe
volley. If one’s opponent lobs much it is unsafe to go in close, as one
may have to run back for the ball.
In a word, it seems to me that each player must judge for himself
in what place he can return his adversary’s strokes to the greatest
advantage, and this place will not be the same against different
players. You can usually tell if your opponent means to lob, and I
believe that it is right to go in closer whenever one is sure that he
will not lob, and then fall back again to be ready for any stroke next
time.
There is one more point to which I want to call attention. Suppose that
you have made a weak volley into the middle of the court and are at the
time well forward. Your opponent can probably put the ball about where
he pleases. What should you do? Get back by all means if you can, for
that is better than staying up with the chances against you. If you
can’t do that, stay and fight it out, but remember that there is no use
in standing still in the middle. Your opponent can put it either side
of you. Wait till he has made up his mind, and then go to one side or
the other. Even if you have no idea to which side you ought to go, it
is still an even chance that you will choose the right one. In such a
case it is the only chance that you have, and if your opponent sees
you going the right way he may miss his stroke in trying to change its
direction.