Pretty Newcastle—Oranges!—New Norcia—Native Love—The
Mission—Northam—The Grand Old Man—Ploughing Match—Oat Crop—The
Show.
There is without doubt a great field in Western Australia for workers
who will settle on the land and cultivate it. Newcastle is a little
town, nestling at the foot of hills and beautifully situated near the
Avon river. It is a splendid farming district; the soil will grow almost
everything. I saw some magnificent oranges and vegetables. The cattle are
as fat and sleek as can be. Rain had been falling when I was there, and
now the sun was shining and a beautiful rainbow rose over the hills. The
pink everlasting flowers—acres of them—surrounded by the green grass, the
pretty winding river, the white bridges and long good roads made up a
very pleasant picture. There is plenty of good land around here waiting
to be taken up and utilised. Newcastle is one of the oldest Westralian
towns, and the roads and bridges were nearly all made by convict labour
in days gone by. There is a great quantity of stone lying about, and
granite is obtainable in large quantities a little way off. There are
vineyards and orchards, and an elderly woman at the Clackline Junction
Station seemed to be doing a good trade with an enormous basket of
splendid oranges and bunches of pink everlasting flowers. She came across
the meadows and joined the train at Delmore on the way to Newcastle a boy
helping her with the big basket of oranges just gathered from the trees.
She told me she came to meet all the trains and invariably did good
business.
[Illustration: NEWCASTLE]
Gold was found about here in 1887 by Mr. Glass, of Mugakine, who found a
piece weighing 11 grains while digging a well. The ground about the hills
is very rocky, but the flats are fertile and favourable for fruit-trees
and vines, and there is plenty of water in ponds; Mr. Clarkson, in the
early days, found sandstone ranges rising 1000 feet; small rivers fall
between these ranges into the sea.
New Norcia, the Benedictine’s Mission settlement, is situated on the
Victoria plains, about 50 miles from Newcastle by road, and 80 miles to
the north of Perth. You can also go to New Norcia by taking the train
to Mogumbur on the Cue line, and thence driving 15 miles to New Norcia.
Here the late good Bishop Salvado, laboured amongst the aboriginals for
over half a century, and died at over 85. The religious community numbers
about 60 monks, most of whom are Spanish. The Abbey is called Abbey
Nullias, and there are a cruciform church of stone, a monastery, and 51
other buildings. Over 1000 acres of land are cleared and fenced, 800 are
under cultivation, and 150 aboriginals are clothed and educated by the
monks. The object of these good men of the Mission is to civilise and
christianise the natives. Bishop Salvado describes his first interview
with the aboriginals thus: “I tried to begin a conversation by signs
with these poor Australians, so hideous to view, though mild and almost
timid; but all that they would say was ‘Maragna’ (food).” In 1846, Father
Salvado and Father Serra, with a few catechists, were guided by some
natives to the site which is now called New Norcia. Fifty acres of land
had been granted them by the Colonial Government, and thus was laid the
foundation of this now well-known and flourishing settlement. In 1848
the first R.C. Bishop of Perth, Dr. Brady, sent Father Serra to Europe
to obtain subscriptions and more missionaries for New Norcia, and 1250
acres of land were purchased by him with the collections obtained in this
way from Europe. In 1849 Father Salvado went to Europe, taking with him
two native Christian boys. There he collected large sums of money, and on
his return a number of missionaries, competent in agriculture and trade,
returned with him, thus giving new life to the Mission, where they built
a chapel, cottages, corn and granary mills, wooden houses, workshops,
and quarters for natives. The land was soon cleared by these good and
energetic men, assisted by the aborigines whom they had befriended, and
to-day one can look around the Mission and see happiness, prosperity, and
contentment on all sides. All the aborigines now there are civilised,
but, for years before they became so, they looked on the Bishop as a god
who possessed superhuman knowledge, especially in doctoring the sick. One
native whom he had relieved leaped and danced, and shouted war-cries,
and said: “Father, when you die I shall be so sorry that I shall kill,
not only one man of the enemy’s tribe, but six kangaroo-hunters, to show
everybody the love I have for you.” Many years have passed away, and
if you now visit New Norcia you will see 1000 acres of fields, stocked
with sheep and cattle; a most prosperous agricultural settlement; corn
in abundance; barley, hay, vegetables, tobacco, and acres of vineyard,
from which a wine, said by those who have sampled it to be excellent, is
made. Fine olives are grown; olive oil, pure and clear, is made; candied
almonds, figs, raisins, grapes, and apples are in profusion. The Bishop’s
only luxury was snuff, grown at the Mission, which is very aromatic and
provocative of much sneezing. Almost everything required and used is
made and produced on the spot. The aborigines learn quickly and are most
devout Christians. The Mission has a brass band of natives, who have been
well trained, and their efforts are most pleasing.
Bishop Salvado was in Perth a few months ago, and received a warm welcome
from all creeds and classes; he was then on his way to Rome, in which
city he recently passed away.
Progressive Northam, the gateway of the goldfields, in the lovely Avon
Valley, was the scene of my next visit. The green undulating fields
through which I passed in the train on my approach to Northam showed a
perfect blaze of wild flowers in every spot where there was room for
them to spring between the well-cultivated farm lands. The rich soil
of this beautiful valley is quite different from the deep sandy soil
near the coast, or from the loam and ironstone of the ranges of the
Darling. Quantities of water are always obtainable by shallow sinking,
should other supplies fail. The fat cattle always seem to be waiting
to accumulate wealth for their owners, and the comfortable-looking
farmhouses impress one with the idea of solid comfort within. Northam
has a population of 2000 people, is increasing fast, and prospering more
than any other agricultural district in Western Australia; and being the
starting-point of the Yilgarn, Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, Mount Malcolm and
Mount Margaret goldfields, is really the threshold of the fields, as well
as the great centre of the agricultural industry in this part of the
colony.
A large staff of railway men is employed in the locomotive department,
over 400 men being paid every fortnight at Northam. The railway platform
is half a mile long, and I believe a magnificent railway station will
shortly further improve the town.
Northam has gone ahead with gigantic strides. On my first visit, a little
over two years ago, it was a very small place indeed, in fact two places,
as I found to my sorrow when I got out of the train at the wrong station
(there are both East and West Northam) and had to walk a mile and a half
up a desolate country road to get to my destination. Now houses, shops,
banks, &c., are built nearly all along that road, and omnibuses ply from
one end of the town to the other. Northam bids fair to become one of the
most important towns in Western Australia.
There are some charming estates about here, notably that of the Hon.
George Throssell, late Commissioner of Crown Lands, and now Premier
since Sir John Forrest relinquished office. Mr. Throssell might almost
be described as the father of Northam. He has resided in what he so
poetically describes as his lovely valley home for 36 years, and it is
chiefly due to his strenuous exertions, the devotion of his energies to
its development, and his manly spirit of help to all, that Northam is
what it is to-day. Mr. Throssell goes home to Northam after his week’s
official work every Friday and remains until Tuesday in the company
of his wife and numerous and happy family of sons, daughters, and
grandchildren. This grand old man has a large and important business in
Northam in conjunction with Mr. Stewart, and branches in different parts
of the colony as well. The machinery stores are well worth inspection.
Every possible kind of English and American machinery for tilling the
soil is here to be seen. The drill and fertiliser now coming into use
make farming a pastime and pleasure, instead of the weariness and hard
work of past ages. With these new implements of agriculture, 600 acres of
land can be drilled with only 20 lb. of wheat to the acre, in place of 75
lb., as in olden days.
Many new implements were going out to the Jenapullen ploughing-match,
a few miles away, for trial that day; so, availing myself of the offer
of a drive there, I started off to see this match. The pastoral country
appeared very thriving as we drove along by the beautiful River Avon, and
the richness of the soil gave ample promise of the harvest to come. Bush
flowers were growing all round, native grasses were flourishing in wild
luxuriance, healthy green crops were waving in the gentle breeze, giving
promise of a most abundant yield and adding beauty to the surrounding
scene.
On arrival at the ploughing-field, I found many kinds of entertainments
going on as well as the ploughing, which I was sure was very splendid,
although I did not understand the art. There was a fine collection of
vegetables, bread, butter, fruit, and many other things; also some very
splendid horses, bred in the district. After the ploughing-match was
over, the folks amused themselves with jumping, running, and pony races.
Every one looked prosperous, happy and contented, and no doubt was so,
for there are many well established farmers in this fertile district, who
long ago secured for themselves a position of independence.
[Illustration: AVON RIVER]
What a future lies before this wheat-growing district! One of the most
prominent townsmen of Northam says that more wheat has been produced
there than in any other part of the colony. Many farmers are also
thinking of raising pigs, to be turned into the toothsome bacon. Mr.
Throssell told me that there are big openings for bacon-curing, as the
quantity of bacon and ham imported to Western Australia last year was
very large.
The Department of Agriculture is doing good work, and experts are sent
out into the different farming districts to teach the benefits of mixed
farming to persons not already acquainted with them, and any one who
wants advice on the management of vineyards, orchards and farms can, by
writing to the Department, have an expert sent at once.
There is also scope for the establishment of a butter and cheese factory
here. This valley of the Avon is an ideal spot for a large dairy, and
might have thousands of sleek cows grazing on the rich pastures, and
hundreds of rosy-cheeked dairymaids turning sweet cream into butter and
cheese for the dusty goldseekers.
Northam has a fine town hall, some handsome churches, a convent,
magnificent post-office, and many beautiful mansions and villas standing
in fine grounds with nice gardens. Many of the favourite English flowers
flourish here. Roses, honeysuckle, geraniums, and mignonette grow very
fine in this soil, and the flowers indigenous to the colony bloom in
sweet and infinite variety. The splendour of Western Australian flowers
cannot be imagined by those who have not seen it. Their dainty delicate
odours are unsurpassable, and if people in other lands only knew of our
glorious wealth of flowers, I am sure they would be anxious to obtain
seeds and cultivate the lovely blossoms.
Coming from one of the splendid homesteads around Northam, I passed a
wheatfield in the valley that extended farther than my eye could reach.
Oats grow to perfection. One farmer in the valley, who has a field of 90
acres, last year harvested as much as 36 bushels to the acre; barley is
also grown with great success.
Our young country has a chance of great and lasting prosperity for
population increases and new people settle on the rich lands to cultivate
them. Mr. Throssell says: “We look forward to seeing our harbour filled
with ships laden with not only gold, timber, pearl shell and wool
products of the colony, but also with golden grain, wine and fruit.” Our
Agent-General in London, Sir E. Wittenoom, recently said at a dinner in
Paris: “There is something fascinating in the phenomena of the rise of
this new colony of Western Australia, which 10 years ago, with an area
equal to nearly half that of Europe, had only the population of the Isle
of Man. Gold reefs were discovered, and the population advanced with
great strides in less than 4 years from 50,000 to 186,000.”
[Illustration: Camel Water Train going to Coolgardie]