ROTTNEST
Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The
Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour.
A very pleasant excursion is to Rottnest Island, twelve miles from
Fremantle. We left Perth in the morning in the steamer to go down the
Swan river, and then across the harbour from Fremantle to the island.
The day was perfect, the scenery exquisite. I do not think the Eastern
Colonists are aware how beautiful their Western sister is, or they would
flock over here still faster than they are now doing. Leaving South
Perth at our back, we had the magnificent stretch of Melville Water in
front of us. Melville Park Estate is a very valuable property, and is
rapidly being transformed from the primeval bush into a place of busy
life; residential areas are being laid out, houses have been built,
suburbs will soon arise, and land is rapidly going up in value. The
little steamer for Coffee Point was just ahead of us, and at the Point
we could see a fine bungalow, which must be a pleasant house to live in.
Wattle-trees and beautiful flowers were seen in abundance through the
field glass I had brought, and we decided that Melville Water was another
beautiful feature of Western Australia.
We steamed past Mount Eliza, with its beautiful terraces of flowers and
shrubs looking down upon us. The water was shining like a jewel at its
foot. After rounding Crawley Point, where the handsome residence of Sir
George Shenton stands, we soon passed into the loveliest little bay
conceivable (Freshwater), its high cliffs studded with pretty villas, and
the grand Hotel Osborne in the distance. Then on past Cottesloe, and
into the Swan river again, down past Fremantle, and across to Rottnest.
It was a most delightful trip, and I am sure the lovely Swan river is
without a peer in Australia for rowing and yachting; it is perfect.
Rottnest is an island about 7 miles long and 2½ miles broad, and the
scenery is very lovely. I do not know when I shall come to the end of all
the beautiful scenery of Westralia, as the more I travel the prettier
each place appears. The summer residence of the Governor is here, and
although not a palatial mansion, yet the situation is so exquisite and
the fishing on the island so good, that the Governor always enjoys his
time of residence there. An avenue of Morton Bay fig-trees, a mile in
length, has lately been planted on the shore of the Serpentine Lake,
near the viceregal residence. Salt lakes abound on the island. There
are chains of them, and the salt contains medicinal properties, but at
present the lakes are only utilised for the manufacture of salt. There
are some nice gardens, and agriculture is carried on by means of the
labour of the prisoners on the island, for at Rottnest is the prison
for aboriginal offenders and juvenile delinquents. There is a splendid
lighthouse on the hill, with a revolving light visible for 40 miles. A
most peculiar phenomenon appeared at Fremantle during the extreme heat of
the summer, namely, a perfect mirage, so that two Rottnests appeared, one
immediately above the other, and the lighthouse seemed to be of immense
height. Strangest of all, about half way up the double-edged island there
appeared a long line of foam, while beyond the island there seemed to be
a line of rocks—recorded by no chart—on the far-distant horizon. It was a
most uncommon sight. Rottnest has rich little valleys, and all kinds of
fruit could be grown there, for the soil is extremely fertile. There are
some very peculiar rock formations and caves, one particularly fine one
being called, after our eminent tragedian, “The Henry Irving.” No better
spot could be found for an invalid in search of health. Many people have
cause to thank the Western Australian climate for a return to health
after having been threatened with consumption. A friend of mine came
from Victoria very ill, and was thoroughly restored after a few months’
residence here. The long summer, the bright sunshine, the dry warm air
and pure atmosphere are just suited for delicate lungs. The winter is
quite invigorating, with just enough rain and cloud to give variety—the
spice of life. This colony seems to combine all the good qualities of
the famous health resorts about which we colonials hear and read so
much—Madeira, Egypt, the Riviera, &c.
After a most enjoyable day we returned to Perth in the moonlight, and
with the scent of many sweet flowers wafting from the shore, to the
steamer, arrived all too soon at the end of our charming excursion.
A very pretty drive is to Woodman’s Point, not far from Fremantle. This
is a great place for camping out and fishing at holiday times. Numbers of
tents dotted about testified to its being a favourite spot. The boys of
the Swan Orphanage are taken out every year to the seaside for a holiday,
and this year Woodman’s Point was chosen. Their happy faces and healthy
appearance told you how well they were looked after. The poor little
fellows were delighted at the sweets and cakes taken to them by several
lady visitors. Their tents were models of tidiness and comfort; the
dining-room was a floor of bushes under a big gum-tree. With the lovely
blue sky overhead, the sparkling water of the sea close by, the beautiful
view all around of ships, steamers and boats, it is an ideal place for
boys to enjoy themselves, and they appeared thoroughly to do so, playing
cricket, climbing trees, and pursuing other amusements dear to the hearts
of boyhood. Some of them sang and recited very nicely, one patriotic boy
giving “The Absent-Minded Beggar” with much enthusiasm. As we drove back
to Fremantle the harbour looked splendid. A great deal of money has been
spent by the Government to make it suitable for large vessels; at one
time no very large ship could get a safe anchorage. At an expenditure of
over a million of money, however, Fremantle Harbour has now been made
able to anchor and berth the largest vessels coming to the colony. The
trade of Western Australia is now most important, and sums up to the
big figure of £12,000,000 a year; 50,000 people travel between here and
the eastern colonies every year, and millions of pounds worth of gold
produced in the colony have been taken away by sea. The mail-steamers now
put in at Fremantle in place of Albany as heretofore, thus giving great
dissatisfaction to the Albanians. However, the change of port is not only
necessary for trade, as Fremantle is the principal port of the colony,
but will also give people travelling from the other side of the world a
better opportunity of seeing the metropolis and goldfields of Western
Australia, which they were often deterred from doing by the journey from
Albany to Perth, a distance of 338 miles, so it is an ill wind that blows
nobody good.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH]