Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation
Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.”
And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I remember it
on my last arrival, after my memorable journey across the sand plains, it
was a very sleepy little town. Now it is a handsome and prosperous city,
with noble buildings on all sides, electric light, tramcars, beautiful
parks around it, and yachts dancing on the broad waters of the Swan
river. Perth is beautifully situated, and one cannot fail to be charmed
with its picturesque and lovely surroundings.
[Illustration: Swan River, Perth]
Perth on a Spring day presents a charming and animated picture. Boats
and steamers ply across Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other
shore, while black swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much
admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies and trees,
the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above everything its
smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild flowers of every colour,
all help to give charm to the scene. St. George’s Terrace, the principal
fashionable street, is nearly two miles in length and planted with shady
trees. The Council have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the
idea, I suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden fruit
growing along the street will be something novel, but not, perhaps,
financially profitable, since in the hot summer time it will offer rather
a temptation to small boys who may have a leaning towards lemon squash.
Russell Square will, in course of time, be as fine a public ground as
any in Western Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred
there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor of Perth,
assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first trees: the rest
were set by the school children, who had been invited to attend. Many
beautiful Westralian, tropical, and sub-tropical trees will in future
throw their grateful shade over this fine square.
[Illustration: HAY STREET, PERTH]
Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in Perth: Moirs’
Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New South Wales, De Baun’s
Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the new Public Works Offices would
do credit to any city in the world. The Town Hall, which, although
an imposing-looking building, is old, will shortly be removed, the
Government having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is
one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A new Town Hall
will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of the city. The Post Office
is a fine building in the French Renaissance style. Then there are the
Mines Department Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall
for entertainments, and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where in the
hot weather people take their amusements in the open air while smoking
and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is a fine theatre in Hay
Street, and another will shortly be erected in Barrack Street; across
the bridge we come to the Victoria Public Library, a splendid stone
building recently built, with an excellent library of 28,000 books and
pamphlets. The Museum adjoins it, and contains valuable specimens of all
the minerals of the colony, as well as biological and botanical samples.
The Railway Station and Offices form a fine block of buildings, and an
overhead railway is shortly to be started. There are some very large
churches, Trinity Church, St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church,
in connection with which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of
buildings adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral,
an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on Sundays a
very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and Convent are near it. Not
far off is the Hospital, which is a credit to Perth, not only on account
of the arrangements, which are excellent, but on account of the kindness,
skilfulness, and attention received by the patients. It is most highly
spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The Royal Mint is a new
and handsome building, recently opened and Western Australia can now coin
its own gold into sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was
formerly done.
[Illustration: Perth Railway Station]
Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine yachts
and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one of the oldest
institutions, and has not only a splendid new boathouse, whose
accommodation and appointments excel those of any other on this side of
the continent, but also the newest racing-skiffs procurable and handsome
sailing-boats. The Club also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which
the members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess has
earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” The Royal
Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by the riverside, and the
many white-winged yachts that form the flotilla are a pretty sight when
sailing on the broad bosom of the Swan.
Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers and colonnade
giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the grounds, though small,
are very beautiful; they slope gently down to the river by a series of
terraces, and contain many rare plants and shrubs.
The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well laid out,
and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football clubs indulge in
their favourite sport, under the sunny skies and genial air that render
open-air existence so delightful in Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the
river faces the ground. This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club,
whose club-boathouse is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green,
where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first youth take
their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be found there on a fine
afternoon, for the club members are very gallant and always have nice
afternoon tea and its accessories for their lady visitors. The Cricket
Association possess a very fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the
other end of the town, near the Causeway.
[Illustration: Melville Water]
It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such remarkable
strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been appreciated. A few years
ago it was nothing but wild bush, and though, of course, the view was
just as good as it is now, few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills
to the top of the Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and
a transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a fence,
and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty summer-houses
have been built; it is five miles in circumference, and on the west side
are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads. The observatory, near
the entrance gate, forms an imposing landmark. Standing at this point
a magnificent panorama is spread before you. The city of Perth lies at
your feet, while far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds
its way to Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in
the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth beneath. Going
along the broad drive you come to the highest pavilion on the summit of
the Mount. Perth Water, with the boat-sheds and their many boats and
yachts, and little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a
jewel below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm Old Men’s
Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road continues on, and we soon
begin to go down the incline, where another still finer view looms in the
distance. Crawley Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at
the foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across the
river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that one cannot bear to
go on, but must pull up the horse and stop for a few minutes, that the
mind may drink in the sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the
other colonies, and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza on a
spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild bush is ablaze
with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. I felt I must stay for
a while and gather some of the beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which
are far more varied than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards
that by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, hope
for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native profusion, many
species have been transplanted from other parts of the colony. Young
eucalyptus and tica folia, trees which are indigenous to the Albany
district, and bear a handsome scarlet flower, have been planted on both
sides of the road, and will in time form an avenue.
Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, with its
brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its exquisite velvety
softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, with their lemon-centred
foliage; the beautiful snowflake flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow
hibbertia; the pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or
native tulip, fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous
to particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall
never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery dales,
country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching far and wide.
Terraces have been formed, and paths wind their way down the hill to
the lower road. Here and there are rustic seats, where visitors can
rest and enjoy the splendid view, and there are, of course, tea-houses,
where you can enjoy the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other
refreshments. Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants
add to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a
really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen on all
sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the Narrows to the famous
and beautiful Melville Park. In the background, the Darling Ranges loom
grandly; in fact, the view is a magnificent panorama that could never be
justly described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the Park
Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for the improvements made
to this lovely spot in so short a space of time. Perth has now settled
down and become quite a quiet city again, whereas a few years ago,
when the gold fever was at its height, the state of the town was very
different. Then the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was
of nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal topic, and
one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a nugget or some gold dust,
or who had not specimens in hand—received from persons interested, who
expected to make fortunes, and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in
quartz, or of some other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they
were called.
[Illustration: PERTH WATER]
Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every stranger
who came to the country had to conform to the country’s laws. The term
“sandgroper” means white native; another term used here is “straight
hair,” given in the early days by the free inhabitants to the convicts,
on account of always having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago
any one walking in the streets of Perth after 10 P.M. took his chance of
being arrested for the night. The constables on their beats invariably
threw out the challenge, “Bond or free?” and unless the person so
challenged could answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z.,
he was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known citizen was
challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! Bond or free?” “Free,”
answered the pedestrian. “Your name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good
enough,” said the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of
that name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal of explanation
the minion of the law rather reluctantly let the citizen proceed on his
way. A few yards further along he challenged another man, who gave the
name of “Snowball.” This name was too much for the new policeman, who
remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow go, for who ever
heard of such names before? Explanations, though freely offered, would
not be accepted by the officer, who triumphantly marched a well-known
and reputable citizen to the police-station under the belief that he was
some desperate criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the
prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to go home.
All this is now changed in Western Australia, the only convicts who are
now alive being a few old people whose terms have expired and who are now
inmates of charitable homes.