CHAPTER VII

TRADE AND OCCUPATIONS

The Auderas country, still almost in Tegama, is far less interesting

ethnically than the north or east. The old permanent habitations in

the area are less characteristic of the Tuareg; there are hardly any

inscriptions or rock drawings, with the exception of the large group

at T’in Wana, and a few scattered about elsewhere. Owing to the many

pools and “eresan”[201] there are no deep wells. At Auderas itself

there are some ruined stone-built dwellings of the later type, but a

few earlier examples may be seen both there and at Abattul, a village

about two miles to the N.E. in the same basin of valleys. A famous

mosque was founded there by Muhammad Abd el Kerim el Baghdadi. Abattul

village lies between the domed peaks of Faken[202] and Mt. Abattul,

which is itself a spur of Mount Todra. Behind, and between them, a

valley and rough track run north to Mount Dogam. Just south of the

village are the valleys which converge from Todra and Faken on the

main Auderas basin. From Auderas Mount Faken is a prominent object on

the northern horizon with a rounded top and vertical black sides which

look unscalable. Almost at the foot of Faken on the Abattul side is

a pool in a deep gorge, usually containing water enough to swim in

most of the year. The path from Auderas to Abattul is very rough,

as it crosses and re-crosses several small valleys where gazelle,

some wild pig, and occasionally monkeys are to be found. Abattul

village lies just under a low white cliff in which there are a few

caves and many smaller holes inhabited by owls and night birds. It

was the first settlement in the basin and was only gradually abandoned

as the country became less subject to raids and war. The inhabitants

had settled in this place so that they could easily take refuge in

the inaccessible crags of Mount Todra just behind their village, in

time of raids. Even nowadays the folk from Auderas have to resort to

the mountain from time to time, but not so often as to prevent them

from living further away. The stone mosque at Abattul is one of the

few in Air which is still used for prayer.[203]

The main road from Auderas to Northern Air runs over very rocky

ground to a plain west of Faken, bordered by two valleys on the

east and by low hills on the west side. The latter continue for some

distance along the valley of Auderas until it eventually reaches the

foothills of Air on the Talak plain. The different groups of hills are

known by names which the Itesan sub-tribes adopted and retained.[204]

The plain north of Agades is the Erarar n’Dendemu of Barth:[205] it

contains El Baghdadi’s place of prayer mentioned by the traveller,

lying under a small hill. Turning left here into more broken country

by a small tributary the track enters the Ighaghrar valley, which

descends from the Gissat and T’Sidderak hills.[206]

At the head of the basin a steep drop leads into a valley flowing north

between Mount Bila to the west and Mount Dogam to the east. This drop,

the descent of Inzerak, is equivalent to the ascent south of Auderas

at T’inien on to the central platform of the plateau. It leads into

one of the most beautiful valleys in Air, called Assada, the head

of which, at right angles to its main direction, is formed by small

ravines draining Mount Dogam. It runs along the eastern foot of Bila

and falls into Anu Maqaran, the central basin of Air. When we came

into Assada there were two or three pools near the foot of Inzerak;

further up the T’ighummar tributary lay a small village of stone

houses with a deep well and mosque on an alternative loop road from

Auderas branching off at the place of prayer of El Baghdadi. This

alternative track was the one taken by Barth in 1850; it debouches

into the Tegidda valley, a tributary of the Assada from the north,

at Aureran well.

I camped in Assada three times in all, twice near the foot of

the descent and once a mile or so further down at the wells

of Tamenzaret,[207] which are temporary and require to be dug

again every year. The deep narrow valley with its sandy bed and

immense trees growing in the thick vegetation on both banks was

magnificent. Towering up on either side the red mountains framed,

in a cleft towards the east, the cone of Dogam seated on a pedestal

of black lava and basalt. Most of the Dogam massif is so rough as to

be impassable. It seems to be a volcanic intrusion in the Todra group,

to which it really belongs. I suspect that the basalt boulders covering

the plain north and south of Auderas, and perhaps certain features

of Todra itself, owe their origin to the Dogam activity. But Bila

is hardly less imposing: on the Assada side it presents a wall of

vivid red rock. The fine clean colours of dawn on the first morning

I saw the mountains against a cold blue sky offered the most lovely

spectacle I saw in all Air.

The Assada and T’ighummar valleys are inhabited by a northern section

of the Kel Nugguru, who pasture their goats and camels there, and owe

allegiance to Ahodu of Auderas. There are a few ruined stone houses

below Tamenzaret and the remains of a mosque at the old deep well of

Aureran, where the main road divides. From here one branch proceeds

north past another ruined settlement to the Arwa Mellen valley and

mountain, the other turns east towards the upper part of the Anu

Maqaran basin. I took the latter road to T’imia. It crossed several

broad valley beds flowing northwards from Dogam, notably the Bacos,

where there is a village and palm grove, and the Elazzas not far from

where they fall into Anu Maqaran. The road I have had occasion to

mention as running from Agades by the Ara valley over the shoulder

of Dogam descends from the Central massif by Bacos or Elazzas. The

latter corresponds to the Ara on the other side of the Dogam pass. By

these two the Todra-Dogam group is divided from Bagezan.

Near its junction with the main Anu Maqaran valley, the Elazzas is

a broad bed between low rocky banks. At a certain point where it

crosses a ridge of rock large quantities of water are held up in the

sand. The remains of a recent village with a few date palms appear on

the site. The rocks in the neighbourhood bear a few rude pictures, but

the ruins, a few round pedestal foundations of loose stones some 15-20

feet in diameter and 2-3 feet high, on which reed huts used to stand,

are uninteresting. Bila from here has the appearance of a long flat

ridge, in pleasant contrast to the isolated peaks of Aggata and Arwa in

the north, or the confused mass of Bagezan to the south and south-east.

The upper part of the Anu Maqaran valley where the Bagezan and the

Agalak mountains at the western side of the T’imia massif approach

one another is called Abarakan. The road passes a large cemetery and

the valley narrows between high hills with bare sides until a big fork

is reached: one valley goes north to T’imia village, the other south,

emerging on the central plateau east of the Bagezan mountains.

T’imia village is a veritable mountain fastness. The Agalak-T’imia

massif was evidently highly volcanic, for a great flow of basalt

overlying pink granite boulders has taken place along the valley

towards Abarakan. The track climbs steadily over the broken lava

stream. The going is rough. Then suddenly the track seems to end

altogether below an overhanging cliff of lava some 30 feet high lying

right across the bed of the ravine. We reached this point and found

the men of T’imia had come down to meet us in order to help our

camels to negotiate the path which follows a narrow crevasse in one

side of the cliff. The cleft is so narrow that a camel with a bulky

load cannot pass at all; it is so steep that the poor animals were

forced to proceed in a series of ungainly lurches or jumps. Above

the cliff the valley broadens out again, and where two small side

valleys enter it lies the modern village of T’imia.

PLATE 23

[Illustration: TIMIA GORGE]

[Illustration: TIMIA GORGE: PINK GRANITE TO LEFT, BLACK BASALT

TO RIGHT]

This settlement of Kel Owi nobles is very different from the servile

Auderas. The parentage of these Kel Owi may be obscure and mixed, but

their physique, the general cleanliness of the place and the neatness

of their domed huts stamp them as nobles. The dwellings stand grouped

in compounds, or sometimes as single huts, scattered between a row of

gardens with irrigation wells, and the slope of a hill covered with

huge boulders. In one of the smaller side valleys is a large grove

of date palms with most of the gardens, near the site of the older

village, a collection of rectangular masonry houses in ruins, and round

hut sites marked by a ring of stones and a hearth. The little mosque

of stone and mud construction lies between the old and new villages,

but it was desecrated by the French soldiers and is no longer used. A

matting shelter and compound in the new settlement serve to-day both

for a place of prayer and a school, presided over by the ’alim

’Umbellu. Though over sixty he still works daily in his garden

in the intervals of teaching the children of the village. Fugda,

chief of T’imia, is one of the cleverest men in Air. Under the

guidance of these two men the community has prospered. The villagers

are enterprising. In the changing conditions of things they are

an exception to the usual rule, for the men combine caravaning and

trading on a large scale with gardening and date cultivation, without

the help of any Imghad. When we came this way some of their camels were

fattening in Abarakan ready to go to Bilma with the annual salt caravan

in charge of a selected party of men. Another herd of some 100 head

was going to Damergu to fetch millet for sale to the French post at

Agades, and later I met yet another drove in Assada going south from

Iferuan by way of Auderas to fetch more grain for sale in Northern

Air after working on transport duties in Nigeria for the winter.

The life of the camel-owning Tuareg may be said to centre round

the autumn salt caravan, which all the best camels accompany. It

usually leaves in October, starting from Tabello[208] in the upper

Beughqot valley, where parties from all over Air, Damergu and the

Southland rendezvous in order to start together. Since the war these

caravans have been comparatively small, but even during the last few

years they have numbered 5000 camels. Ever since the occupation of

Agades by the French, the Camel Corps has been turned out to guard

the concentration and escort the caravan across the desert, for so

valuable a congregation of camels might any year, as it sometimes

did in the past, prove an irresistible temptation for raiders. The

largest caravan ever escorted reached the fantastic total of over

30,000 camels. The caravan marches for five days to the oasis of

Fashi, where it is joined by a smaller caravan from Damagarim via

Termit. There, a halt is made for a short time to water and feed on

whatever scanty pasture is available, and in some three more days Bilma

is reached. The animals go out empty except for a little grain or live

meat in the form of goats and sheep, and some trade goods for the Tebu

and Kanuri inhabitants of Fashi and Kawar and Tibesti. They bring back

salt and dates both from Fashi and Bilma. The latter place has perhaps

the finest salt deposits in Africa. It costs nothing to get except the

labour at the pans of making it up into loaves and loading it wrapped

in matting bales. The outlay may be threepence to fivepence a load, in

addition to an export tax of two francs per camel levied by the French

authorities. The salt is sold in Hausaland for anything up to 7_s._

or more a loaf according to the time of year. As a fully-grown camel

can carry four to six loaves of salt, the trade is extremely lucrative.

Both Fashi, or Agram as the place is also called, and Kawar have

practically no pasture, and the few camels which live permanently

there eat dates. The desert for five and a half days between Tabello

and Fashi and three days between Fashi and Bilma is not only waterless

but also nearly pastureless as well. The camels start out loaded with

a sufficient supply of fodder for the outward and return journeys;

the huge bales of grass are dropped _en route_ at the end of each

day’s march to provide for the equivalent return stage. Since

the practice of escorting caravans has been instituted the French

authorities quite rightly forbid isolated parties crossing the desert

and attracting raiders to the neighbourhood. The route now chosen

for the caravan runs from Tabello to Tazizilet on the edge of the

Air mountains, and then straight across to Fashi in an almost due

easterly direction. Formerly another road, which was more convenient

for the northern tribes of Air, was also in use. It left the mountains

at Agamgam pool in North-east Air and went to Ashegur well, north of

Fashi; this way the distances between watering-points was shortened,

and there was also rather more pasture.

This annual salt caravan is the largest enterprise of its sort in the

world at the present time. It is called in Air the “Taghalam,” a

word derived from “aghelam,” meaning a “prize camel,” but the

French call it the “Azalai,” which means the “Parting” or the

“Separation,” the name given to a similar caravan which annually

leaves Timbuctoo to collect salt at Taodenit for sale along the Niger.

With the advent of European salt in Nigeria the trade has become

somewhat less remunerative, as the Air “Taghalam” no longer enjoys

its ancient monopoly in the Central Sudan, but the infinitesimal cost

of production and the cheap transport in the hands of nomads will

always enable it to compete with the imported European trade product

to some extent. Bilma salt is of good quality; it is comparatively

free from sand or medicinal chemicals and is preferred by the natives

of the south to the purer European product. The loaves are made up

in conical form and are pink in colour, standing some 18-24″ high

by 9-12″ at the base.

The return journey of the “Taghalam” follows the same course as

the outward one. The whole trip, which is extremely strenuous for

men and camels alike, takes some three weeks. There are always a

number of casualties among the camels from exhaustion, but so large

are the profits that every Tuareg is ready to take the risk and send

as many of his herd as he can possibly spare at least once a year,

either in the autumn or on the smaller “Taghalam” which goes

in the spring. After returning from Bilma the camels are rested and

then proceed to Damergu and the south to sell their salt and their

services. They are joined by any other camels fit to go, and when they

have disposed of their merchandise engage in transport work between the

cities of the Southland until about March or April. Then they begin to

move north again before the rains set in in the Sudan. The proceeds

of this work and of the sale of Bilma salt, or dates from Fashi and

Air, are invested in grain and such trade goods as cotton cloth, tea,

sugar, snuff and hardware, which are the only luxuries of Air. By the

time they reach the mountains the summer rains have probably begun,

and they have some three months in which to recuperate on the fresh

pasture of the hills in preparation for the next year’s routine.

Transactions in salt and grain are measured by the camel load,

which varies considerably from place to place. Metrology is not

an exact science in Air, but recognised standards nevertheless

exist. The actual measures are kept by the tribal chiefs, and it is,

of course, common gossip to hear it said that a certain chief gives

unduly short weight. The only truly Tuareg measure is a unit of

capacity; in the first instance it is the handful, whether of grain

or salt or other commodity. But the measure has been standardised

by establishing that a handful shall be as much millet grain as an

ordinary man can pick up in his hand with the fingers _closed_ palm

upwards.[209] Six such handfuls nominally make one “tefakint,”

which is measured by heaping the grain in a small circular basket

with sloping sides 1¾″ deep × 3⅝″ in diameter at the mouth

× 2″ at the bottom. The next larger measure is the “muda,” a

cylindrical wooden cup with a hemispherical bottom in a U section. As

the handful and the “tefakint” are too small to measure bulky

wares like dates, the “muda” has become the effectual standard

in the country, but it varies in certain areas. At Auderas it is of

five “tefakint,” but in Agades of ten. The T’imia and Kel Owi or

Ighazar “muda” is different again, three of them being the same

as two Auderas or one Agades “muda.” The three “mudas” are,

however, generally recognised and are not the subject of bargaining in

each transaction. The measure corresponding to the Air “tefakint”

basket in Damergu is a round section cut from a large calabash; this

slightly convex plate is held by a loop for the fingers fixed to the

underside. All these grain measures are considered to be full when

the grain is heaped up so that it runs over the edge.

For small weights the silver five-franc piece, or “sinko” as it is

called, is now also used, especially in measuring the value of silver

ornaments. The rate of exchange current in 1922 in Air at Agades

was four silver shillings or five silver francs to the “sinko”;

a general rate of five obtained elsewhere in Air, as silver francs and

shillings were not distinguished from each other. The people of Air

have the nomads’ dislike for paper currency in any form. Various

coins, including the Maria Teresa dollar, are still in circulation,

but French coinage is gradually replacing all others. Cowrie shells

are no longer used and gold is now unknown. The mithkal of Agades

dates from the time when the gold trade was still flourishing, and

its form here is peculiar to this city. It seems to have been a unit

of weight and not of currency; as a recognised amount of gold it was

used as the basis for striking bargains, but the metal probably did

not pass from hand to hand owing to the inconvenience of handling

dust. With the decline of the gold trade the mithkal survived as a

unit of weight, but its theoretical value changed considerably in

the course of centuries. We find in Barth’s day the exchange was

reckoned at 1 mithkal = 1000 cowries, and 2500 cowries = 1 Maria Teresa

dollar; but whereas the Agades mithkal was only worth two-fifths of

a dollar, the Timbuctoo mithkal was worth one-third of a dollar. It

is interesting to arrive by a round-about method at a rough estimate

of the change in value of the unit.

The mithkal as a simple unit of weight was a part of a larger unit

in the following equation:[210] 100 mithkal = 3 small karruwe =

1 large karruwe = 6½ Arab rottls. The Arab rottl weight varies

between 225 grammes in Persia and about 160 grammes in Cairo, several

slightly different standard rottls being used in other parts of

Egypt. Taking 160 grammes as the equivalent of 1 rottl, and assuming

Barth’s equation to be correct, we get 10·4 grammes for the Agades

mithkal. The unit of 10·4 grammes of gold dust in the fifteenth

century A.D. was in the nineteenth century equal to two-fifths of

a Maria Teresa dollar weighing 28·0668 grammes silver 0·833 fine,

or in other words, 13·5 grammes of silver.

The only measures of length in Air are the “aghil” (plural

“ighillan”)[211] and the “tedi” or “teddi.” The former is

the universal dra’, ell or cubit measured from the inner elbow-point

to the first joint of the middle finger on an average man, say 5 ft. 10

in. tall. Ten “ighillan” make one “amitral,” the two measures

being only used for cloth, etc. The “tedi” is the fathom and is

used for measuring the depth of wells or the length of rope, etc. There

is no measure in Air for distance, which is invariably calculated by

the parts of a day or the number of days taken to cover the ground.

The pack-saddle of Air is peculiar to the country. It is very simple,

consisting of two sheaves of grass or straw, two semi-circular pieces

of matting made of plaited dûm palm fronds, a skin filled with grain

or stuffed with dry camel dung and a wooden arch terminating in flat

boards. A bundle of grass, with the butt ends even and trimmed, is

laid on the semi-circular mat, which is then rolled around it and

sewn up with ribbands of palm frond by a long wooden or iron bodkin;

the flowery ends of the grass project beyond the matting. One of these

mat cylinders or cushions is fitted each side of the camel’s hump

with the butts nearly touching one another over the withers. Over

these pads is placed the arch of wood, the ends of which terminate

in boards some 9″ × 3″ at the ends, resting on the pads, which

are tied on with twisted dûm palm rope. A stuffed goatskin thrown

transversely over the back of the camel behind the hump forms a rear

pad. Its corners are tied to the two ends of the arch with adjustable

cords to regulate the distance between them. The loads, which must be

carefully balanced, are slung over the pack-saddle; two loops on each

load are hitched to the other two on the other load with two short

sticks. The weight of the load rests on the side pads and the ends

of the back pad; the load cords bear on the latter and on the side

pads just in front of the wooden arch, which prevents them slipping

backwards. The load ropes rest on, and are not tied to, the saddle. No

girths, crupper or breastband are used unless the loads are very bulky

or need special steadying. Unloading is extraordinarily simple, for

as soon as the camel has been knelt down the loops are disconnected

by pulling out the short sticks and the loads fall down on either side.

The pack-saddle is simple and cheap, but is not efficient on steep

slopes where the camel may stumble or lurch awkwardly. As these

conditions prevail all over Air, the arrangement is really far from

ideal, though in the plain land it is practical enough. The principal

advantages are that every part of the saddle is easily adjustable

to suit any particular camel, while the whole equipment weighs next

to nothing. The goatskin used as the back pad on long journeys is

filled with a provision of grain, saving an additional receptacle on

each camel of the caravan. The resultant economy of space and bulk

is unequalled in any other system.

The rest of the camel’s equipment consists of a head rope, a hobbling

rope and the load ropes. In Air all rope is made of split dûm palm

fronds soaked in water till they have fermented, or, if no time is

available, from fresh material. The strips are twisted like ordinary

two or three strand “cable laid” rope. It is a strong, serviceable

material costing nothing and available everywhere where the dûm palm

grows, which is all over Air and the Sudan. The scarcity of date palms

precludes the use of the brown fibre which grows below the fronds,

known to camel travellers in the north. The dûm palm rope does

not wear so well as the latter but is easier to manufacture. Every

camel-man in Air spends a certain part of the day making rope,

twisting the fronds from split ribbands about ¼-½″ broad,

bundles of which he carries about; he sits on the ground talking and

twisting, using his big toe to hold the end of the rope he has made,

and weaving in strand after strand with incredible speed. The rope

is nearly all two-stranded cable, but the tightness of twist and the

finish vary with the use. Load ropes are very closely twisted cable,

passed twice round the package at each end and terminating in a loop

adjusted by a running half-hitch to raise or lower the load on the

side of the camel. Lashing rope and rough nets are made of loosely

twisted strands. The camel head rope is a long piece with a slip

knot at one end passed over the lower jaw of the camel and pulled

tight behind its front teeth. Hobble ropes are stout lengths passed

round one foreleg, then twisted and passed round the other, leaving

about 18″ of movement between the limbs: the ends are secured by

passing a knot through a small loop. Carefully made rope is beaten

with a stone to make the strands pack tightly.

Loading camels is hard work and can only properly be done by two

men. The pack-saddle is put on the kneeling camel, which is prevented

from rising by slipping one of his knees through a looped hobble rope,

which, when not in use, is carried round the animal’s neck. The

camel protests vigorously in season and out of season and pretends

to bite the men. They work stripped to the waist, wearing only their

trousers tucked up to the thigh, and the inevitable veil. They stagger

under 150 to 200 lbs. loads, swinging them on to the camel’s back,

slipping the loops through one another and securing them with the

two sticks. The camel is then released, gets up with a jerky movement

resembling a deck chair being opened, and probably throws its burden

to the ground immediately, when the operation recommences. If this

does not happen at once the head rope is secured to the next camel

in front with a half-hitch that can be released by pulling the free

end. By the time fifty camels have been loaded, at least five in

an endeavour to graze on the same bush have bumped into one another

and their loads have fallen off. The operation of loading may take

place in the early morning when it is cool, or before dawn when it

is always cold, or at noon when the temperature is like a furnace;

it is always tedious and tiresome and bad for the temper, which the

incessant complaining of the camels aggravates.

Eventually the caravan moves off. The camel-men walk along, watching

their loads if they are conscientious, and when everything is going

well they climb up on their camels and sit on the loads. They jump

up on to the neck of the camel after pulling its head down and so

reach the top, but they never kneel a camel after it has started

on the march until the day’s journey is over, unless the load

has been thrown or has slipped very badly. The guide takes the

head of the caravan and the march starts. The Tuareg of Air know

their mountains as well as the average Londoner knows London: they

can find their way along the more important tracks. For the less

known ways a special guide must be found: in the outer deserts the

reliable guides can be counted on the fingers of both hands. Efale,

the leader of the “Taghalam” and veteran of the Eastern Desert,

T’ekhmedin and Kalama on the northern routes—are all resourceful,

patient and observant men when travelling, but complete autocrats whose

orders cannot be questioned. Their knowledge of the roads depends on

estimation of time and memory and not on any supernatural powers. They

know the stars[212] and have some sense of direction, but especially

do they know every fold of ground and almost every bush. Their powers

are remarkable but not inexplicable; their observation and memory

rarely fail them, but for obvious reasons they do not care to travel

by night. Once started the march goes on hour after hour. The heat

grows more intense. The narrow path winds down the bed of a valley or

among the trees on the banks, or over rocky plains or amid sand dunes.

In Air the vegetation exists principally along the valleys. In the

south the dûm palm grows in veritable forests or in low thickets,

when it resembles the dwarf palm. The _Acacia Adansonii_, _Acacia

Arabica_ (“Tamat” in Temajegh), _Acacia Tortilis_ (the “Talha”

of the Arabs and “Abesagh” or “Tiggeur” in Temajegh), as

well as two or three other varieties, are common. They occasionally

grow to very large dimensions. The Aborak (_Balanites Ægyptiaca_)

also does very well; trees with trunks up to 2 feet in diameter are

common in the larger valleys, and in North-eastern Air I have seen

some up to 3½ feet across. The bushes and grasses are innumerable,

but flowers are rare, except for the yellow and white mimosa blossom

on the trees. Nearly all the trees and bushes are thorned, some with

recurving barbs which are dangerous for the careless rider. If burr

grass is less frequent than in the south, spear grass abounds and is

almost as painful. Vegetation in Air defends itself against pasturing

animals vigorously but vainly, for the animals in the country seem

to thrive on a diet of thorns, and man ends up by being the worst

sufferer from these useless provisions of Nature. Thorns are not

the only minor horror of life. How often after a long march has some

delicious glade appeared at hand, cool and inviting. After angrily

dismissing the suggestion to choose a camp site in the middle of an

open river-bed where the sun on the sand will cook an egg in a few

minutes, you throw yourself down to rest in deep green shade fanned

by the breeze. The unwary traveller soon learns the consequences

of disregarding native advice, for he will quickly arise from a bed

of thorns with his clothes full of burrs, and his mouth full of bad

words, while his whole attention will probably be directed towards

dodging a large tarantula or scorpion or, happily less often, a little

yellow-crested sand viper, than which there is hardly anything more

deadly in all Africa.

PLATE 24

[Illustration: ABOVE: NECK WALLETS, POUCH, “STAR” GAME TRAP

CENTRE: AMULET BAG, WOODEN LADLE, WOODEN SPOON, AMULET POUCHES

BELOW: STRIP OF MATTING, LEATHER BOTTLE, HOUSEHOLD POTS OF CLAY AND

HIDE, SKIN FOR CHURNING BUTTER]

Apart from trades directly connected with camels the Tuareg have

practically no industries. They neither dye nor spin anything, except

a rough sewing thread of local cotton; nor do they weave in wool or

cotton. Mats of two sorts are made; the one of palm fronds plaited

in bands some two to three inches broad and sewn together spirally

to form rectangles or ovals worked in varying degrees of fineness,

the other made of stiff grass and thin strips of black leather. The

technique of the latter is good: deep borders with an intricate

geometric ornament are woven in the leather warp. Mat-making and

leather-working are carried on by the women. They attain great

skill, but although leather-working is usual all over the country,

it is at Agades that the craft is especially well developed. Fine

designs in coloured strips of leather are made on cushions, bags

and pouches like a sort of embroidery. The industry is in the hands

of a few women and is probably of Manding origin, brought to Air

by the Songhai conquerors or even before. Decorated camel riding

saddles, leather head ropes and travelling wallets or pouches of

various shapes are made. The leather used is the goatskin locally

tanned with the seed pod of the “Tamat” acacia, and dyed with

red maize leaf or indigo. A certain amount of prepared leather is

also imported from the south. In these articles the foundation is

usually of black leather, which is ornamented with coloured strips

or bands and metal studs. Camel head ropes are made of twisted or

plaited leather strands with coloured tassels; the more elaborate,

the finer are the strands used; the tassels are bound with coloured

leather threads woven in patterns. The technique of these head ropes

is the best of its sort I have ever seen. Cutting leather in strands

to the thickness of coarse sewing thread is a highly skilled art,

and all the more remarkable in that only knives are used, for scissors

are unknown except in the blacksmiths’ equipment. I have seen cords

for carrying amulets or pouches made of ten or a dozen threads, each

less than ¹⁄₃₂″ thick, bound at intervals and at the ends.

A most characteristic article is a flat rectangular envelope of

leather some 6″ long × 3″ broad. It is only open at the bottom

and slides up and down the two cords, by which a sort of portfolio

is hung from the neck; this consists of four to six leather flaps in

which amulets, trinkets, needles and papers are preserved. The black

cover is ornamented with some stamped rectilinear pattern and has small

tassels at the bottom. A similar object is the small leather amulet

case about 3″ broad × 2″ long × 1″ deep, also slung round

the neck, and provided with a lid like a box. A larger semi-circular

pouch with a design in strips of coloured leather suspended over the

shoulder by a long cord is typical Agades work. Triangular travelling

bags of all sizes are made of soft leather, closed at the neck with

a running cord; they vary in size from those 5 inches long for snuff

to others 2 feet or more for clothing and food. Both these bags and

ornamented goatskins for packing personal belongings have polychrome

patterns on the surface, which is roughed and rubbed with moist

dyes. The plaited head ropes and the surface dyeing of leather seem

to be a more indigenous technique than the “Agades work” proper,

in which the design is procured by appliqué strips.

Carpentry is rudimentary and the craft akin to iron-working. The

artisan, known as the “Enad” or smith, whatever his caste, is

a person of standing in the community: he is a man whose advice is

sought in council though he rarely becomes a leader. In the olden

days the “Enad” is said even to have had a peculiar form of grave

to distinguish his resting-place from that of other men, but however

this may have been, there is nothing now to show that the smith of

Air ever belonged to a separate race or caste. To-day the smith is

only respected for his skill. The position is usually hereditary

and includes the duties of the blacksmith, jeweller, carpenter and

farrier, with the same set of tools for all these trades. His adze is

an acute-angled crook of wood with a socketed iron cutting edge bound

on to the point of the short limb; the form dates back at least to

the Neolithic period of civilisation. The axe is equally primitive:

the cutting edge, instead of having a socket, ends in a point

which is fitted into a hole bored through the club head of a wooden

haft. With these two tools, a few hammers, usually of European shape,

tin-shears, pincers, files and chisels, the “Enad” contrives to

turn out some remarkably fine work. Using only his adze he will cut

spoons with a pointed bowl at a slight angle to the flat handle, or

round ladles, from a solid block of “Aborak” wood. They are then

ornamented with geometric patterns burnt on the handles around the

edge. The Air “Enad” does not smelt iron, for all the presence

of ironstone in the hills and magnetite sand in the river-beds. The

only iron-working done is quite simple bending, beating or tempering

on an anvil shaped like a huge horseshoe nail planted in the ground. A

goatskin bellows closed by two wooden slats and a clay nozzle are used

as in the Southland. The iron is heated in a hearth in the sand filled

with charcoal. A certain number of inferior iron knives are forged,

but the Tuareg of Air must be regarded as having hardly yet reached

the iron-working age of evolution.

The Agades blacksmith-jewellers melt down silver coins heated in small

clay crucibles. They lose a lot of silver by oxidation, but the work

is remarkably well finished, considering the primitive nature of their

tools and the heavy hammers employed. The wooden household furniture

will be described later; so far as there is any at all, it is well

made, but rough. The principal skill of the smiths is displayed

in making and decorating camel riding saddles and certain U-shaped

luggage rests, to which particular reference will be made hereafter.

The Tuareg riding saddle, or “tirik” (“t’iriken” in the

plural) in Temajegh, or “rahla” in Arabic, is a highly efficient

production, combining comfort with extreme lightness. It consists

of a circular seat over an inverted V frame which fits across the

withers of the camel. High above the seat are a broad, tall cantle

shaped like a Gothic arch and large cross pommel. The whole saddle

weighs perhaps 10 lbs. at the most. Its equipment includes a quilted

saddle cloth over the withers and a single plaited leather girth two

inches broad. No iron is used in the saddle, except for two rings

which pull by diagonal straps from the underside of the seat over the

flat Ʌ shaped frame of the saddle. The girth is permanently attached

to these straps at one end, the other end is lashed to the ring on

the off-side straps by a leather thong. The seat, cantle and pommel

are made of separate pieces of wood held together by raw hide, which

is pulled over them wet and dried in place; the violent contraction

of the hide holds the component parts together as firmly as if they

were screwed or dovetailed. The broad Ʌ sides which fit over the

withers are of soft tanned leather stretched over a rectangular frame:

the upper part is covered with leather over hide and wood. The common

saddle has dark red leather over the seat and cantle and black leather

over the cross pommel and along the edges of the cantle. The elaborate

decoration of the more ornate patterns is invariably the same. In this

variety the seat and edging are of red and black leather as previously

described, but the back of the cantle and the front of the cross pommel

are covered with pale green leather, on which is applied a geometric

decoration of horizontal and diagonal strips of stamped and fretted

silver or white metal, with red cloth showing through the holes. Every

example I saw had the same green leather background on the front of

the pommel and back of the cantle. I observed no instance where the

ornament was on a different background or where green leather without

the silver metal design had been used. Where the design comes from

I have no idea; it is remarkably well executed and dignified without

being so barbaric in splendour as the horse saddles of the Sudan. Every

element of the construction and ornament is traditional and rigidly

adhered to. I can offer no suggestions regarding its origin, but can

only note its presence. Some symbolism is probably involved.

PLATE 25

[Illustration: LEFT: BRIDLE STAND AND SEAT

CENTRE: CAMEL RIDING SADDLE WITH PLAITED GIRTH AND THONG

ABOVE: PLAITED LEATHER CAMEL BRIDLE AND LEATHER HOBBLE

RIGHT: WOODEN ARCH OF CAMEL PACK SADDLE]

Where a man can afford to have a leather bridle he usually dispenses

with the running noose which, when rope is used, is slipped over the

camel’s lower jaw behind the front teeth. The leather bridle is

fitted to a head collar consisting of an arched iron nose-piece with

a curved iron jowl-piece attached to one side by a brass or copper

link ring. The bridle is fastened to the other end of the jowl-piece

and runs through a ring on the nose-piece itself, so that any pull on

the bridle closes the former on to the latter, compressing the jaws

of the camel. The nose-piece is kept in position by a horizontal band

of plaited leather attached to the ends and passing round the back of

the camel’s head below the ears. The top of the arched nose-piece

is usually shaped into a loop on to which a crest of black ostrich

feathers may be attached.[213] As an alternative or in addition to

this equipment the riding camel often also has a nose-ring in the

left nostril for a light rope or leather bridle. The nose-ring is

the mark of a good riding camel, but is sometimes not employed for

guiding the animal, as its use necessitates light hands to avoid

injuring the beast.

In addition to its lightness the Tuareg riding saddle has the

inestimable merit of bringing the weight of the rider over the

shoulders of the camel, or in other words over the part where the

animal is strongest. The hinder parts of the camel are sloping and

can carry no weight; all the heavy work is done by the fore-legs. The

rider, sitting in the saddle, which must be arranged with padding

if necessary over the front part of the withers to bring the seat

horizontal, rests one foot against the vertical part of the camel’s

neck just above its curve, holding on to the neck with a prehensile

big toe. The other leg is crooked below and falls over the opposite

shoulder of the camel at the base of the neck. Bare feet are essential

for good riding, as, in addition to enabling some grip to be obtained,

they are used to guide the camel with recognised “aids.” With

a broad cantle and a high pommel between the legs a far better grip

can be obtained than on the Arabian saddle, on which a good seat is

entirely a question of balance. Provided the saddle cloth under the

Tuareg saddle is properly adjusted there is practically no galling of

the withers or sides. If provisions or water-skins are carried they are

slung under the seat of the riding saddle, their front ends attached

to the girth rings, their rear ends tied together behind the hump,

resting on a small pad to prevent rubbing over the backbone.

The large goatskins for water and small ones for meal do not differ

from those used throughout the East. The goat is skinned without

cutting the hide except around the neck and limbs: the skin is peeled

off the carcass and well greased. The legs are sewn up and roped

for slinging: rents or holes are skilfully sewn up or patched with

leather and cotton thread so that they do not leak. A new skin recently

greased with goat or sheep fat is abominable, as the water becomes

strongly impregnated with the reek of goat. But water from a good

old skin can be almost tasteless, though such skins are hard to come

by. Some of the water one has drunk from goatskins beggars description;

it is nearly always grey or black, and smelly beyond belief. The

one compensation is that the wet outside of the skin keeps the water

deliciously cool owing to constant evaporation. With a riding saddle,

a skin of water and a skin of meal or grain as his sole equipment,

the Tuareg reduces the complications of travelling to a minimum.

His weapons are few but characteristic. First and foremost he wears

a sword, called “takuba,” as soon as he reaches man’s estate,

and before even he dons the veil. His sword has been romantically

associated with the Crusaders and I know not who else. It is a

straight, flat, double-edged cutting sword of the old cross-hilted type

up to 3 ft. 6 ins. long by 2-3½ ins. broad below the hilt, tapering

slightly to a rounded point. The guard is square and broad and the

hilt is short, for the Tuareg have small hands. The pommel is flattened

and ornamented. The hilt and guard form a Latin cross. The type never

varies, though of course the blades differ greatly in quality and form,

ranging from old Toledo steels with the mark “Carlos V” on them

to an iron object called a “Masri” blade made in the north. Some

are elaborately ornamented, but the most prized are plain with two

or three slight canellations down the middle; they are probably of

European manufacture. The commonest Masri blades bear two opposed

crescent “men in the moon” faces as their mark; another cheap

variety has a small couchant lion. The Tuareg prizes his sword as

his most valued possession and many, like Ahodu, speak with pride of

a blade handed down in their families for generations. His particular

sword was reputed to have magical properties, for it had been lost in a

fight at Assode, where the owner, rather than allow it to be captured,

had thrown it from him into the air, only, through the instrumentality

of a slave, to find it again many years afterwards, buried deep in the

rocky ground on a hillock near the site of the battle. The sword is

worn in a red leather scabbard slung from two rings by a cotton band

over the shoulder. The edges of the blades are kept very sharp. As a

weapon these swords are quite effective. Ahodu in a raid received a

sword wound from a blow which had glanced off his shield; it ran from

the left shoulder to the left knee, and had cut deep into his arm and

side. It would have killed most Europeans; he not only recovered but

had to ride four days from the scene of the fight back to Air.

Two sorts of spears are used, the wooden-hafted with a narrow

willow-leaf socketed blade and an iron socketed butt, and one made

throughout of metal. The latter, called “allagh,” is a slender and

beautiful weapon up to six feet long.[214] The head is very narrow,

not above an inch broad: the greatest breadth is half-way down the

blade, which projects on either side of a pronounced midrib. Below the

head are one or more pairs of barbs in the plane of the blade. The

haft is round and about half an inch in diameter, inlaid with brass

rings. Two-thirds of the way along the haft is a leather grip; below

that is an annular excrescence, and then the haft is splayed out,

terminating in a chisel-shaped butt 1½″-2″ broad. These spears

are used as lances or as throwing weapons. They are graceful and

well-balanced, but are not made locally. Wherever they appear the

influence of the Tuareg can seemingly be traced. It was from this

people also that the cross-hilted sword probably came to be adopted

in the Sudan, while they themselves certainly learnt its use in the

Mediterranean lands, perhaps even from the Romans.

Sheath knives some 6″ long, with fretted or inlaid brass hilts and

red leather or leather and brass sheaths, are worn at the waist. The

arm dagger is the most typical of all Tuareg weapons. They seem to be

the only people to use it: it has a small wooden cross hilt and a long,

narrow, flat blade. This weapon is worn along the forearm, the point

to the elbow, the hilt ready for use under the hand: the sheath has a

leather ring which is slipped over the wrist. The hilt is held in the

hand, knuckles upward and two fingers each side of the long member

of the cross. It is, in fact, a short stabbing sword, the handiest

and most redoubtable of all the weapons of the People of the Veil.

For defence they have large shields[215] roughly rectangular in

shape and as large as 5 ft. × 3 ft., of sun-dried hide from which

the hair has been removed. The best are made in Elakkos and some

parts of Damergu of oryx hide. The edges are bound in leather, but

the shield remains stiff yet fairly flexible, as it consists of only

one thickness of hide. The corners are rounded and the sides somewhat

incurved, the bottom being usually a few inches broader than the top. A

loop in the centre of the top side is used to hang the shield from the

camel saddle. In use it is held in the left hand by a handle attached

behind about a third of its length from the top rim. There are no

arm loops, as the shield is too ungainly to move rapidly in parry,

though its size effectually protects the whole body. The hide of

the white oryx is extremely tough and is said to turn any sword-cut

and most spear-thrusts. The shield is especially remarkable for

its ornamentation. Some of the more elaborate have metal studs with

roundels of red stuff near the edges, but an uncoloured cruciform

design worked on the surface by a series of small cuts always appears

in the upper part of the shield on the centre line. The design in

all examples I have seen, and probably in most cases, is much the

same and is certainly symbolic, for we hear of the shield and cross

ornament being engraved on rocks. The design seems to be derived

from a Latin cross, the lower and longer arm of which terminates

in a group of diagonal members, usually three on each side, forming

a radial pattern. In this form it resembles nothing so much as the

Christian cross standing on a radiating mass representing light or

glory, but certain examples have the radiating marks at the top as

well as at the bottom of the cross.

The Tuareg does not usually use either bows and arrows or the throwing

iron with its many projecting knife-blades. Instances are not wanting

in which these weapons have been used, but they are neither typical

of the equipment of the Tuareg nor natural to his temperament. Where

they have been used they have been consciously borrowed from some

neighbouring or associated people, such as the Tebu, who use the

throwing iron extensively. The People of the Veil have one most

especial vaunt, which is that they fight with the _armes blanches_

and disdain insidious weapons like arrows. The advent of civilisation

has brought them the rifle, which they are as proud to possess as

any fighting man must be, but they have never been seduced from the

sword, spear and knife which are their old allegiances. It is common

to hear a Tuareg say that he would be ashamed to stoop to the infamy

of the Tebu: he will explain that whatever happens the Tuareg will

never creep up to a camp at night and cut his enemy’s throat in the

dark. He will fight fair and clean, attacking with spear and sword,

preferably by day. He prides himself on the distinction which he

draws between murder by stealth and killing in a fight or raid. He

may be a liar and not live up to his vaunt; but to have the ideal at

all is remarkable; it must be said to his honour that on the whole he

has proved that he can live up to his self-set standard. In all the

bitter fighting with the French during the last two generations I am

only aware of one instance in which the Tuareg have stooped to what in

their own view was treachery, and that was when they tried to poison

the survivors of the Flatters Mission after the attack at Bir Gharama.

Their tactics in war are the usual ones of desert fighting. Guerilla

warfare, ambushes, surprise attacks and harassing descents on

stragglers are all known. On one occasion in an attack on a French

patrol, which had exacted a fine of camels from a tribe, the men came

up in the dark on the opposite side of the square to that on which

the animals were lying and called to them, whereupon the animals,

recognising the voices of their masters, rose and swept through the

sleeping camp, which was over-run and decimated. In the desert men

neither give nor get quarter, for prisoners and slaves are encumbrances

to free movement. In ordinary raids the losing side is either destroyed

or dispersed.

PLATE 26

[Illustration: TUAREG SWORD AND SHEATH, SHIELD, ARM-SWORD AND SHEATH

AND TWO KNIVES]

As far as possible the Tuareg fight according to their code, which in a

less cynical age would be called chivalrous. They obey the injunctions

of Islam neither to destroy palm trees nor to poison wells. They

will give water in the desert to their worst enemy. They will lie and

deceive their opponent whenever possible, but they will not infringe

the laws of hospitality. When they have given the “Amán” or peace,

they do not break their word. They are faithful to the tribes which

they take under their protection and to those who have received their

“A’ada” or “right of passage,” confirmed with the “Timmi”

or oath suitable to the occasion. Their reputation as base fighters

has little real foundation. Every case of which I have heard, when

such an accusation was brought against them, has resolved itself into

some surprise attack by a raiding party, the essence of whose success

depended upon an unexpected descent upon an unsuspecting enemy. Of

their courage I will write nothing, for it is too easy to exaggerate;

but their proverb says: “Hell itself abhors dishonour.”

[Footnote 201: Singular: Ers. Water-scrapes in the sand of

valley-beds.]

[Footnote 202: Or Efaken.]

[Footnote 203: See Plate 35.]

[Footnote 204: See the Kel Geres group in Appendix II.]

[Footnote 205: Barth, _op. cit._, Vol. I. p. 385.]

[Footnote 206: Misnamed the Dogam Mountains on the Cortier map. Dogam

is to the east. The Ighaghrar valley runs south and then, assuming

the name of Tagharit, west, and then on to the Talak plain. This

valley does not run into the Auderas valley as the Cortier map shows.]

[Footnote 207: The “Assada well” of the Cortier map.]

[Footnote 208: Quite close to the Nabarro of Barth. The name is not

given on the Cortier map.]

[Footnote 209: Specifically it is not as much as a man can heap on

his open or hold in his half-closed hand.]

[Footnote 210: Cf. Barth, _op. cit._, Vol. I. pp. 467 and 479.]

[Footnote 211: In Masquerey’s Temajegh dictionary as “iril”

and “irillan” respectively.]

[Footnote 212: The Great Bear is called “Talimt,” the Cow Camel;

the Pleiades are the “Chickens.”]

[Footnote 213: See Plate 36.]

[Footnote 214: In Plate 47 Sidi is carrying such a spear flying the

author’s pennant.]

[Footnote 215: The round shields mentioned by Duveyrier as in use

among the Northern Tuareg are unknown in Air. See Plates 22 and 26.]

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