THE MIDWAY INN.

'The hidden but the common thought of all.'

The thoughts I am about to set down are not _my_ thoughts, for, as my

friends say, I have given up the practice of thinking, or it may be, as

my enemies say, I never had it. They are the thoughts of an

acquaintance who thinks for me. I call him an acquaintance, though I

pass as much of my time with him as with my nearest and dearest;

perhaps at the club, perhaps at the office, perhaps in metaphysical

discussion, perhaps at billiards—what does it matter? Thousands of men

in town have such acquaintances, in whose company they spend, by

necessity or custom, half the sum of their lives. It is not rational,

doubtless; but then 'Consider, sir,' said the great talking

philosopher, 'should we become purely rational, how our friendships

would be cut off. We form many such with bad men because they have

agreeable qualities, or may be useful to us. We form many such by

mistake, imagining people to be different from what they really are.'

And he goes on complacently to observe that we shall either have the

satisfaction of meeting these gentlemen in a future state, or be

satisfied without meeting them.

For my part, I do not feel that the scheme of future happiness, which

ought by rights to be in preparation for me, will be at all interfered

with by my not meeting again the man I have in my. mind. To have seen

him in the flesh is sufficient for me. In the spirit I cannot imagine

him; the consideration is too subtle; for, unlike the little man who

had (for certain) a little soul,' I don't believe he has a soul at all.

He is middle-aged, rich, lethargic, sententious, dogmatic, and, in

short, the quintessence of the commonplace. I need not say, therefore,

that he is credited by the world with unlimited common-sense. And for

once the world is right. He has nothing-original about him, save so

much of sin as he may have inherited from our first parents; there is

no more at the back of him than at the back of a looking-glass—indeed

less, for he has not a grain of quicksilver; but, like the

looking-glass, he reflects. Having nothing else to do, he hangs, as it

were, on the wall of the world, and mirrors it for me as it

unconsciously passes by him—not, however, as in a glass darkly, but

with singular clearness. His vision is never disturbed by passion or

prejudice; he has no enthusiasm and no illusions. Nor do I believe he

has ever had any. If the noblest study of mankind is man, my friend has

devoted himself to a high calling; the living page of human life has

been his favourite and indeed, for these many years, his only reading.

And for this he has had exceptional opportunities. Always a man of

wealth and leisure, he has never wasted himself in that superficial

observation which is often the only harvest of foreign travel. He

despises it, and in relation to travellers, is wont to quote the famous

parallel of the copper wire, 'which grows the narrower by going

further.' A confirmed stay-at-home, he has mingled much in society of

all sorts, and exercised a keen but quite unsympathetic observation.

His very reserve in company (though, when he catches you alone, he is a

button-holder of great tenacity) encourages free speech in others; they

have no more reticence in his presence than if he were the butler. He

has belonged to no cliques, and thereby escaped the greatest peril

which can beset the student of human nature. A man of genius, indeed,

in these days is almost certain, sooner or later, to become the centre

of a mutual admiration society; but the person I have in my mind is no

genius, nor anything like one, and he thanks Heaven for it. To an

opinion of his own he does not pretend, but his views upon the opinions

of other people he believes to be infallible. I have called him

dogmatic, but that does not at all express the absolute certainty with

which he delivers judgment. 'I know no more,' he says, 'about the

problems of human life than you do' (taking me as an illustration of

the lowest prevailing ignorance), 'but I know what everybody is

thinking about them.' He is didactic, and therefore often dull, and

will eventually, no doubt, become one of the greatest bores in Great

Britain. At present, however, he is worth knowing; and I propose to

myself to be his Boswell, and to introduce him—or, at least, his

views—to other people. I have entitled them the Midway Inn, partly from

my own inveterate habit of story-telling, but chiefly from an image of

his own, by which he once described to me, in his fine egotistic

rolling style, the position he seemed to himself to occupy in the

world.

When I was a boy, he said (which I don't believe he ever was), I had a

long journey to take between home and school. Exactly midway there was

a hill with an Inn upon it, at which we changed horses. It was a point

to which I looked forward with very different feelings when going and

returning. In the one case—for I hated school—it seemed to frown darkly

on me, and from that spot the remainder of the way was dull and gloomy;

in the other case, the sun seemed always glinting on it, and the rest

of the road was as a fair avenue that leads to Paradise. The innkeeper

received us with equal hospitality on both occasions, and it was quite

evident did not care one farthing in which direction we were tending.

He would stand in front of his house, jingling his money—_our_ money—in

his pockets, and watch us depart with the greatest serenity, whether we

went east or west. I thought him at one time the most genial of

Bonifaces (for it was his profession to wear a smile), and at another a

mere mocker of human woe. When I grew up, I perceived that he was a

philosopher.

And now I keep the Midway Inn myself, and watch from the hill-top the

passengers come and go—some loth, some willing, like myself of old—and

listen to their talk in the coffee-room; or sometimes in a private

parlour, where, though they speak low and gravely, their converse is

still unrestrained, because, you see, I am the landlord.

Sometimes they speak of Death and the Hereafter, of which the child

they buried yesterday knows more than the wisest of them, and more than

Shakespeare knew. The being totally ignorant of the subject does not

indeed (as you may perhaps have observed in other matters) deter some

of them from speaking of it with great confidence; but the views of a

minority would quite surprise you, and this minority is growing—coming

to a majority. Every day I see an increase of the doubters. It is not a

question of the Orthodox and the Infidel, you must understand, at all,

though _that_ is assuming great proportions; but there is every day

more uncertainty among them, and, what is much more noteworthy, more

dissatisfaction.

Years ago, when a hardy Cambridge scholar dared to publish his doubts

of an eternal punishment overtaking the wicked, an orthodox professor

of the same college took him (theologically) by the throat. 'You are

destroying,' he cried, 'the hope of the Christian.' But this is not the

hope I speak of, as loosing, and losing, its hold upon men's minds; I

mean the real hope, the hope of heaven.

When I used to go to church—for my inn is too far removed from it to

admit of my attendance there nowadays—matters were very different.

Heaven and Hell were, in the eyes not only of our congregation, but of

those who hung about the doors in the summer sun, or even played

leap-frog over the grave-stones, as distinct alternatives as the east

and west highways on each side of my inn. If you did not go one way,

you must go the other; and not only so, but an immense desire was felt

by very many to go in the right direction. Now I perceive it is not so.

A considerable number of highway passengers, though even they are less

numerous than of old, are still studious—that is in their

aspirations—to avoid taking (shall I say delicately) the lower road;

but only a few, comparatively, are solicitous to reach the goal of the

upper.

Let me once more observe that I am speaking of the ordinary

passengers—those who travel by the mail. Of the persons who are

convinced that there never was an Architect of the Universe, and that

Man sprang from the Mollusc, I know little or nothing: they mostly

travel two and two, in gigs, and have quarrelled so dreadfully on the

way, that, at the Inn, they don't speak to one another. The commonalty,

I repeat, are losing their hopes of heaven, just as the grown-up

schoolboy finds his paradise no more in home. I can remember when

divines were never tired of painting the lily, of indulging in the most

glowing descriptions of the Elysian Fields. A popular artist once drew

a picture of them: 'The Plains of Heaven' it was called, and the

painter's name was Martin. If he was to do so now, the public (who are

vulgar) would exclaim 'Betty Martin.' Not that they disbelieve in it,

but that the attractions of the place are dying out, like those of Bath

and Cheltenham.

Of course some blame attaches to the divines themselves that things

have come to such a pass. 'I protest,' says a great philosopher, 'that

I never enter a church, but the man in the pulpit talks so unlike a

man, as though he had never known what human joys or sorrows are—so

carefully avoids every subject of interest save _one_, and paints that

in colours at once so misty and so meretricious—that I say to myself, I

will never sit under him again.' This may, of course, be only an

ingenious excuse of his for not going to church; but there is really

something in it. The angels, with their harps, on clouds, are now

presented to the eyes, even of faith, in vain; they are still

appreciated on canvas by an old master, but to become one of them is no

longer the common aspiration. There is a suspicion, partly owing,

doubtless, to the modern talk about the dignity and even the divinity

of Labour, that they ought to be doing something else than (as the

American poet puts it with characteristic ii reverence) 'loafing about

the throne;' that we ourselves, with no ear perhaps for music, and with

little voice (alas!) for praise, should take no pleasure in such

avocations. It is not the sceptics—though their influence is getting to

be considerable—who have wrought this change, but the conditions of

modern life. Notwithstanding the cheerful 'returns' as to pauperism,

and the glowing speeches of our Chancellors of the Exchequer, these

conditions are far harder, among the thinking classes, than they were.

The question 'Is Life worth Living?' is one that concerns philosophers

and metaphysicians, and not the persons I have in my mind at all; but

the question, 'Do I wish to be out of it?' is one that is getting

answered very widely—and in the affirmative. This was certainly not the

case in the days of our grand-sires. Which of them ever read those

lines—

'For who, to dumb forgetfulness a prey,

This pleasing anxious being e'er resigned,

Left the warm precincts of the cheerful day,

Nor cast one longing lingering look behind?'—

without a sympathetic complacency? This may not have been the best of

all possible worlds to them, but none of them wished to exchange it,

save at the proper time, and for the proper place. Thanks to overwork,

and still more to over-worry, it is not so now. There are many

prosperous persons in rude health, of course, who will ask (with a

virtuous resolution that is sometimes to be deplored), 'Do you suppose

then that I wish to cut my throat?' I certainly do not. Do not let us

talk of cutting throats; though, mind you, the average of suicides, so

admirably preserved by the Registrar-General and other painstaking

persons, is not entirely to be depended upon. You should hear the

doctors at my Inn (in the intervals of their abuse of their

professional brethren) discourse upon this topic—on that overdose of

chloral which poor B. took, and on that injudicious self-application of

chloroform which carried off poor C. With the law in such a barbarous

state in relation to self-destruction, and taking into account the

feelings of relatives, there was, of course, only one way of wording

the certificate, but—and then they shake their heads as only doctors

can, and help themselves to port, though they know it is poison to

them.

It is an old joke that annuitants live for ever, but no annuity ever

had the effect of prolonging life which the present assurance companies

have. How many a time, I wonder, in these later years, has a hand been

stayed, with a pistol or 'a cup of cold poison' in it, by the thought,

'If I do this, my family will lose the money I am insured for, besides

the premiums.' This feeling is altogether different from that which

causes Jeannette and Jeannot in their Paris attic to light their

charcoal fire, stop up the chinks with their love-letters, and die

(very disreputably) 'clasped in one another's arms, and silent in a

last embrace.' There is not one halfpenny's worth of sentiment about it

in the Englishman's case, nor are any such thoughts bred in his brain

while youth is in him. It is in our midway days, with old age touching

us here and there, as autumn 'lays its fiery finger on the leaves' and

withers them, that we first think of it. When the weight of anxiety and

care is growing on us, while the shoulders are becoming bowed (not in

resignation, but in weakness) which have to bear it; when our pains are

more and more constant, our pleasures few and fading, and when whatever

happens, we know, must needs be for the worse—then it is that the

praise of the silver hair and length of days becomes a mockery indeed.

Was it the prescience of such a state of thought, I wonder (for it

certainly did not exist in their time), that caused good men of old to

extol old age; as though anything could reconcile the mind of man to

the time when the very sun is darkened to him, and 'the clouds return

after the rain?' There is a noble passage in 'Hyperion' which has

always seemed to me to repeat that sentiment in Ecclesiastes; it speaks

of an expression in a man's face:

'As though the vanward clouds of evil days

Had spent their malice, and the sullen rear

Was with its storied thunder labouring up.'

This is why poor Paterfamilias, sitting in the family pew, is not so

enamoured of that idea of accomplishing those threescore years and ten

which the young parson, fresh from Cambridge, is describing as such a

lucky number in life's lottery. The attempt to paint it so is

well-meaning, no doubt, 'the vacant chaff well meant for grain;' and it

is touching to see how men generally (knowing that they themselves have

to go through with it) are wont to portray it in cheerful colours.

A modern philosopher even goes so far as to say that our memories in

old age are always grateful to us. Our pleasures are remembered, but

our pains are forgotten; 'if we try to recall a physical pain,' she

writes (for it is a female), 'we find it to be impossible,' From which

I gather only this for certain, that that woman never had the gout.

The folks who come my way, indeed, seem to remember their physical

ailments very distinctly, to judge by the way they talk of them; and

are exceedingly apprehensive of their recurrence. Nay, it is curious to

see how some old men will resent the compliments of their juniors on

their state of health or appearance. 'Stuff and nonsense!' cried old

Sam Rogers, grimly; 'I tell you there is no such thing as a fine old

man.' In a humbler walk of life I remember to have heard a similar but

more touching reply. It was upon the great centenarian question raised

by Mr. Thorns. An old woman in a workhouse, said to be a hundred years

of age, was sent for by the Board of Guardians, to decide the point by

her personal testimony. One can imagine the half-dozen portly

prosperous figures, and the contrast their appearance offered to that

of the bent and withered crone. 'Now, Betty,' said the chairman with

unctuous patronage, 'you look hale and hearty enough, yet they tell me

that you are a hundred years old; is this really true?' 'God Almighty

knows, sir,' was her reply, 'but I feel a thousand.'

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