=American Index=, Piano Card-stamping machines for, 86
=Analysis=, the art of resolving a machine, fabric, or substance of
any kind, into its constituent parts.
=Arrangement= of hooks, needles, griffe-bars, springs, spring-frame
and needle-board in the single-lift Jacquard machine, 14
=Backing=, the filling of the lower fabric in a double cloth.
=Batten=, the frame which carries the cylinder in its motion to and
from the needle-board, 15
=Batten Motion=, 15
=Binder-warp=, the warp-threads producing the foundation of a
fabric; interior warp; this warp is generally not visible in the
finished fabric. Used in astrakhans, velvets, plushes, Brussels
carpets, upholstery fabrics, etc.
=Bobbin.= The filling is wound on the bobbin, and the latter placed
in the shuttle.
=Bonchon, M.=, the inventor of the principle of the Jacquard
machine, 7
=Border=, the outer part of a fabric.
=Brush=, as required for perfect work, 107
=Camel Hair= is the hair of certain camels, and is used either
combed or carded.
=Card-guide=, used in the Piano Card-stamping machine, 90
=Card-rack=, 19
=Card-wire=, 19
=Carriage=, technical name for a part of the Piano Card-stamping
machine, 88
---- Technical name for a part of the Repeating machine, 93, 96
=Cashmere=, or _Kashmere_ wool, is the fine hair of the Cashmere
goat, which thrives upon the Himalaya mountains and surrounding
country, in Asia. _Cashmere_ is also used to indicate certain
fabrics made of wool or silk warp and goat hair, or fine merino
wool filling.
=Catch=, a part of the Carriage in the Piano machine, 88
=Catches=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 13
=Centre Tie-up or Point Tie-up=, 33
=Colors= used for painting textile designs, 107
=Comber-board=, (_Cumber-board_ and _Compart-board_ are also
technical terms frequently used for it); a perforated board which
guides and keeps the harness-cords in the required positions.
Lately, wires crossing each other and adjusted in a frame are used
with advantage; this latter style is patented by The G. W. Stafford
Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., 20, 130
---- Made in strips and adjusted in a frame, 21
---- Made of a solid piece of material, 20
=Combination Tie-up= in two sections, 56
=Compound Harness.= Designs for fabrics executed on a Jacquard
loom with Compound Harness attached, 116
---- General arrangement and application, 58
---- Number to use of, 63
---- Positions during weaving, 63
---- Their operation by a separate machine, 62
---- Weaves for working, 63
=Cotton= is the white, downy, fibrous substance which envelopes
the seeds of various species of the cotton plant, _gossypium_,
belonging to the natural order _malvaceæ_.
---- The size of the yarn when spun is calculated by numbers,
commencing with No. 1, which requires 840 yards to 16 ounces; every
successive number requiring 840 yards additional for the original
16 ounces.
=Cow Hair=, mixed with a suitable fibre like wool, is spun into the
filling for coarse ingrain carpets, and similar coarse fabrics, as
backing-filling for cloakings, etc.
=Cylinder=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 7, 9, 16
=Damask=, a fabric originally made at Damascus, and composed of
rich silk. The name is at present applied to various textile
fabrics composed of cotton, linen, etc., which are of common
household use, as table-covers, towels, etc.
=Designing Paper= for the different textile fabrics, 103
=Divisions= of a comber-board, 22
=Dobbies=, Index machines, Witches, etc., are small Jacquard
machines, or machines constructed upon its principles.
=Dobby Card-punching Machine=, 86
=Double Cloth=, selection of designing paper for, 106
---- Two separate fabrics fastened together in the process of
weaving. The advantages of double cloth are various, amongst which
we find: To produce a heavier and thicker cloth; using materials to
their best advantage; producing effects impossible to be procured in
single cloth, etc. There are three divisions of double cloth:--
_a_, using one system of warp and two systems of filling;
_b_, using two systems of warp and one system of filling;
_c_, using two systems of warp and two systems of filling.
=Double-lift Double-cylinder Jacquard Machine=, principle of
construction, advantages over the single-lift, and method of
operation, 69
=Double-lift Single-cylinder Jacquard Machine=, principle of
construction, advantages over the single-lift, and method of
operation, 67
=Doup=, an arrangement used in the manufacture of gauze fabrics
which compels certain warp-threads to cross each other, 64-66
=Douping Warp=, also known as _Whip-thread_, and used in connection
with the ground-warp or standard thread in the construction of
gauze fabrics, 64
=Drawing-in Draft=, method to be observed in drawing-in a warp in
the eyes of the heddle.
=End=, the technical word for a thread which is used often in its
place.
=Expert in Card-stamping=, how to become, 86, 88
=Extra Fine=, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 832 threads
warp, (36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge, 74
=Extra Super=, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 1072
threads in warp, (36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge, 75
=Extra Warp=, designs figured with, 117
=Fabric=, the structure of anything; the manner in which the parts
of anything are united by art and labor; workmanship, texture,
make, etc.
---- Manufactured cloth of any kind or material.
=Fabrics= for which the Jacquard machine must be used, 9
=Falcon, M.=, the inventor of the cylinder and the Jacquard cards, 7
=Feed Cylinder=, a part of the Repeating machine, 96
=Filling=, the threads running crosswise in a cloth.
=Flax.= This term is used to designate the flax or linen fibre,
and also the plant from which it is obtained.
=Frame=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 11
=French Index=, Piano Card-stamping machines for, 86
=Gauze Fabrics=, their peculiar characteristic construction, 64
---- Threading of the harness for, 64-66
---- Tying-up for, 64
=Griffe=, a part of the Jacquard machine; also called Knife Box,
7, 9, 10, 13
=Griffe-bars=, a part of the Jacquard machine;
also called Knives, 9, 10
=Guide-board=, used for regulating the height of the mails by
tying-up a Jacquard harness, 23
=Guiding-rod.= See Jacquard Plunger.
=Hammer=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 16
=Harness cords=, the cords of each leash, 9
=Heavy Square=, its practical points of use on designing paper, 105
=Heddle and Harness-cord=, combining, 23
=Heddles=, as required for compound harness, 62
---- For the Jacquard harness, 9, 22
=Hook=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 9, 10, 13
=Index Machines.= See Dobbies.
=Ingrain=, as applied to carpets, was originally intended for a
fabric where the wool was colored before carding and spinning, but
which is not true at present, as the yarn is mostly manufactured
before coloring. The great variety of colors used in an ingrain
carpet at the present time, the constant changing of styles,
besides the saving of expense by coloring the yarn after
manufacture, are the general reasons for it. Ingrain carpet in our
country means the same as Scottish or Kidderminster in Europe.
=Ingrain Carpet=, two-ply, construction of the fabric, 72
---- Two-ply, designs for, 116
---- Two-ply, Jacquard Machine, 71
---- Two-ply, selection of designing paper, 106
---- Two-ply, tying-up of its Jacquard harness, 72
=Ingrain Carpet Loom=, two-ply, built with a stationary
shuttle-raceway and an independent comb for beating up the filling, 82
---- Two-ply, in which the journals are lifted from above by means
of a cam arrangement, 81
---- Two-ply, in which the journals are lifted from below and
controlled by either a chain or cam motion, 81, 82
=Jacquard Cards=, general arrangement and application, 7, 9, 17, 18
---- Preparing of, 85
---- Stamping of, 85, 91
=Jacquard Designing=, practical hints, 103
=Jacquard Harness=, general arrangement and application, 20
=Jacquard, Joseph Marie=, life of, 7, 8
=Jacquard Loom=, a loom furnished with the Jacquard arrangement.
=Jacquard Plunger=, a part of the Jacquard machine; also known as
Guiding-rod, 12
=Journals=, peculiarly constructed harness frames used in the
manufacture of two-ply ingrain carpets, 75
=Jute= is a native plant of China and the East Indies; its long
fibre, which is of a brown to silver gray color, is used largely in
the manufacture of Brussels and tapestry carpets, rugs, etc., for
the body--ground structure of the fabric. It is distinguished from
flax by being colored yellow under the influence of sulphuric acid
and iodine solution. The size of the thread when spun is indicated
by the same rule as wool--_Cut system_--300 yards to 16 ounces.
=Keys=, as used in the Piano Card-stamping machine, 86
=Keys=, as used in the Repeating machine, 93
=Key Wire=, used in the Repeating machine, 95
=Lace-hole Press=, 96
=Lacing= of Jacquard cards, 97
=Lacing Frame=, 97
=Lacing Machines=, using two needles for lacing each series of
holes, 98
---- Using one needle and one shuttle for lacing each series of
holes, 100
=Lacing Needles=, 100
=Lacing Twine=, the kind to use for machine lacing, 100
=Lantern=, an iron extension put on the cylinder of the Jacquard
machine. The cylinder is turned by means of the catches working on
the lantern, 16
=Leaf=, a harness; thus: 3-leaf twill or 3-harness twill, etc.
=Lease=, or leas.
=Leasing= of the Jacquard harness, 23
=Leash=, two or more harness-cords combined and adjusted to one
neck-cord. For every harness-cord a leash contains there will be
found a repeat in the design to correspond, 9
=Lifter-boards=, or _Trap-boards_, used in the Jacquard machine for
two-ply ingrain carpet, 71
=Lifting= of the griffe, 12, 17
=Lingo=, a small iron weight for each harness-cord, 9, 22, 23
=Loom Pickers= are generally made of raw hide; less frequently of
sole leather or wood. The picker stick, which is operated by means
of cams or arms on the loom, drives the picker, and the latter the
shuttle.
=Loop-guide=, a part of the lacing machine, 99
=Mail=, made of metal, forms the centre part of a twine heddle; in
the eye of the mail the warp-thread is drawn, 22, 23
---- Its position in the loom, 23
=Margin=, plain part between border and selvedge, or centre and
border in a damask table-cover, etc.
=Mate Threads=, technical name used in two-ply ingrain carpets; one
ground-thread and its corresponding figure-thread, 72-80
=Merino=, originally the wool of the Spanish Merino sheep, and
known as some of the finest wool. _Colonial wools_, as Australia,
Cape of Good Hope, New Zealand, bear the character of the Merino,
derived through introducing and breeding the original stock in
those countries.
=Modifications= of the single-lift Jacquard machine, 67
=Mohair=, the fleece of the Angora goat. It is largely used in the
manufacture of light-weight dress goods, which are characterized
by their lustre. In pile fabrics, as plushes, velvets, astrakhans,
etc., of a plain or figured denomination, mohair is often used for
the “pile-warp,” whereas the ground or body of the fabric is made
of cotton.
=Neck-cord=, the cord combining leash and hook, 9
=Needle=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 9, 10, 14
=Needle-board=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 17
=Open Harness=, tie-up, 23
=Outlining in Squares=, methods and rules for, 113-115
=Pattern-cylinder=, a part of the Repeating machine, 94-96
=Perforated Bottom-board=, a part of the Jacquard machine; through
this board the neck-cords are passed, combining the hooks to the
leash, 12
=Petty-point Tie-up=, 51
=Piano Card-stamping Machine=, operated by belt power, 91
---- Operated by foot power, 86
=Pick=, one filling thread; one passage of the shuttle through the
shed.
=Pile Fabrics= can have the pile produced either by the warp or
the filling. If the pile has to be produced by the warp, a certain
number of warp-threads are raised on certain picks over wires.
These elevated threads are interwoven in the pick preceding the
interweaving of the wire, and also in the pick following it, with a
filling-thread to the ground cloth. After a certain number of wires
have been inserted, the first interwoven wire is drawn out of the
fabric to be used over, which operation is repeated in rotation
with every wire. We find terry and velvet piles. If the pile is
produced by the filling, some or all filling-threads must float in
certain places to allow the thread to be cut at this place, or its
fibres to be raised during the process of finishing the fabric,
53, 118
---- Designs for, 118
=Plain-weave=, also known as cotton-weave; in this weave, warp
and filling cross each other at right angles, and interweave
alternately. Frequently used for ground-weave in Jacquard designs.
=Point Tie-up or Centre Tie-up=, 33
=Point Tie-up=, for two-ply ingrain carpets, 78
=Point Tie-up in three Sections=, 55
=Preserving= of designs executed on [O] paper, 107
=Presser=, a part of the Lacing machine, 99
=Punch=, as used in the Piano Card-stamping machine, 86
---- As used in the Repeating machine, 93
=Punch-head=, a part of the Piano machine, 86
---- A part of the Repeating machine, 93
=Rack=, a part of the Piano Card-stamping machine, 88
=Reed=, a series of narrow strips of metal, between which the
warp-threads pass in the loom. The purpose of the reed is to keep
the warp evenly divided, also to strike the filling in many places
at the beating the reed towards the breast-beam of the loom. The
reed is known by numbers, the number in each case indicating how
many splits are in one inch. RULE for ascertaining the _reed
number_, if the number of ends in the warp and the width in the
reed are known; the threads per dent either given or to be selected
according to the fabric:--Divide the number of ends in the warp by
the width in the reed, which gives the number of threads per inch;
divide this result again by the number of threads in one dent,
according to the weave or rows deep of comber-board. Whole numbers
or half numbers are generally used for grading reeds only.
=Reel=, or =Idler=, a part of the Repeating machine, 93
=Repeat=, that which is to be repeated; as the repeat of a pattern,
the repeat of an effect in a design, etc.
=Repeating Machine=, for Jacquard cards, 92
=Reserve Rows.= Nearly every Jacquard machine contains two extra
rows of needles in addition to the number as classified, 10
=Satin-weaves= are characterized by a smooth face. The stitch
of the threads is opposite to that of the twill weaves. The
foundations for designing a satin-weave are, in the first place, to
arrange as much as possible distributed stitching; in the second,
to have this as regular as possible. The satin-weaves commence
with the five-harness, and can after this be made on any number
of harness. To find the run of stitching in the easiest way, use
the following rule: Divide the number of harness into two parts,
which must neither be equal, nor the one a multiple of the other.
Afterwards take one result and add it, commencing to count from
1 until all threads or harnesses are taken up, as example: Five
harness--5 = 2 + 3. Commencing with one and adding two points, we
have as follows: 1 + 2 = 3 + 2 = 5 + 2 = 7, or 2 + 2 = 4. This
will give the stitch as: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, which means: the first
pick stitches in the first warp-thread, the second pick stitches
in the third warp-thread, the third pick stitches in the fifth
warp-thread, the fourth pick stitches in the second warp-thread,
the fifth pick stitches in the fourth warp-thread.
---- Are frequently employed for ground-weaves in Jacquard designs.
=Section= of the comber-board, dividing the comber-board in its
depth.
=Sectional Harness Arrangement=, 26
=Selecting Needle=, used in the Repeating machine, 94
=Selvedge=, the edge of cloth, woven in such a manner as to prevent
ravelling, and often closed by complicating the threads; also
called List, Listing.
=Setting of Figures= in a sketch, 108
=Setting of the Cylinder=, 18
=Shading= of textile fabrics by the weave, 118
---- Rules for, 119
=Shed=, the separation of the warp to allow the shuttle to pass
through.
=Shot-about=, the alternate exchange (filling ways) of figure up
and ground up in two-ply ingrain carpet, 72, 117
=Shuttles= are the means for carrying the filling into and through
the shed.
=Shuttle-box Mechanism=, for carpet hand-looms, 80
=Shuttle-raceway=, the part of the lay on which the shuttle travels
to and fro.
=Silk= consists of the pale yellow, buff colored, or white fibre,
which the silk worm spins around about itself when entering the
_pupa_ or _chrysalis_ state. _Spun Silks_ are calculated as to size
of the thread on the same basis as cotton. The adopted custom of
specifying the size of raw silk is by giving the weight of 1000
yards in drams, avoirdupois.
=Single Cloth=, selection of designing paper, 105
=Single-lift Jacquard Machine.= By it warp-threads, as called for,
according to the Jacquard cards, are raised and lowered each pick.
=Sizes of Jacquard Machines=, 10
=Sketches=, enlarging and reducing figures for, 110
=Sketch=, principles for, 108
---- Size required, 109
---- Transferring to the [O] designing paper, 112, 115
=Skipper=, technical name for a part of the Piano Card-stamping
machine, 88
=Spools.= This technical term applies to a barrel, having a head on
each end.
=Spring Frame=, a part of the Jacquard machine, 14
=Springs=, as used in connection with the needles in the Jacquard
machine, 9, 10, 15
=Squaring-off=, a process employed for enlarging and reducing
figures in sketches, 110
---- A process employed in the construction of original sketches, 111
---- A process employed in transferring the sketch to the [O]
designing paper, 112, 115
=Straight-through Tie-up.= The Jacquard harness threaded on the
machine in the direction from front to rear, 23
---- The Jacquard harness threaded on the machine in the direction
from rear to front, 26
---- On the English system, 28
---- For repeating effects in one repeat of the design, 29
---- For two-ply ingrain carpets, 74
---- In four sections, 57
---- In three sections, 53
---- In two sections (for double cloth), 48, 50, 51
---- Of a Jacquard harness, having front harness attached, 32
---- Single and double sections combined, 51
=Straight-through Tie-up and Point Tie-up=,
combined, 35, 39, 42, 43, 46
---- Applied to a double-lift double-cylinder Jacquard machine, 70
=Stop Motions=, for looms, are attachments for stopping the loom
when the filling breaks or runs out. The _Protector_, an additional
attachment to the loom, might also be classified as a _stop
motion_, as it stops the loom in case the shuttle fails to reach
its box.
=Super=, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 960 threads warp
(36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge, 76
=Tail-cords=, the substitutes of the regular hooks used in the
ingrain carpet machine, 71
=Temples=, attachments to the loom on each side of the selvedge,
for holding the last woven part of the fabric in even width, with
the width of the fabric in its reed, thus preventing as much
useless chafing of the warp as possible.
=Terry=, a loop; an uncut pile fabric.
=Textile=, a woven fabric.
=Texture=, changing, for fabrics using a Jacquard harness threaded
in the solid comber-board, 21
---- Number of warp and filling-ends in one inch; there are two
textures:
_a_, for the fabric in the loom (reed).
_b_, for the finished fabric.
=Twills= are frequently employed as ground-weaves for Jacquard
designs.
---- A weave running diagonally across the fabric. They are divided
into even-sided, uneven-sided, broken, and fancy twills.
=Twist.= The amount and the direction of the twist in yarns of
any kind of material is very important; thus it should never be
overlooked in the preparation of a design for textile fabrics.
=Tying-up of Jacquard Looms=, with compound harness attached, 58
=Vaucanson=, the inventor of the griffe, 7
=Velvet=, a cut pile fabric.
=Warp=, the threads running lengthwise in a cloth; the yarn which
passes through the Jacquard harness and the reed.
=Weave=, the way the two systems of threads (warp and filling),
composed of any kind of material, are interlaced.
=Whip-thread.= See Douping Warp.
=Witches.= See Dobbies.
=Wool.= By the term wool we comprehend the hairy covering of
several species of _mamalia_, more especially that of the sheep.
It is more flexible, elastic and curly than hair. Wool as used
for warp and filling is either _combed_ or _carded_, technically
known as _worsted_ or _wool-spun_ yarn. The size of the thread
for worsted is calculated by 560 yards to 16 ounces for No. 1,
and the same number of yards is added for each successive number
balanced by the original 16 ounces. For woolen yarn two methods
of calculating the size are in use: The _Cut_ system, having 300
yards to one cut (16 ounces); the _Run_ system, having 1600 yards
to one run (16 ounces). The same number of yards are added to
each successive number of cut or run, also to be balanced by the
original 16 ounces.
The Bridesburg Manuf’g Co.
TEXTILE MACHINERY BUILDERS,
201-203 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia.
Stockton Bates, President. Wm. D. Shubert, Secretary.
[Illustration: LOOMS:]
Roller, Goodyear, and Witch Harness, Sheeting, Duck, Bag,
Clipper, Gebhart, Ticking,