Tying-up of Jacquard looms with extra compound harness, consists in
applying two separate systems of harness in the loom. The warp-threads,
after having passed through the Jacquard harness, are passed through
harness in front. Each system of harness performs special duty,
although they are both working the same warp. The Jacquard harness
is used for forming the general design on a large scale; the second
harness divides this pattern into detail, (twills, satins, or any other
desired weave). The above tie-up is necessary in the manufacture of
rich damasks and similar fabrics, where a large number of warp-ends
is required, with a correspondingly small number of picks per inch.
Suppose a damask fabric to contain 300 ends warp per inch, with only
75 picks per inch; or in the proportion of 4 to 1. Now, to employ this
principle of making four ends warp equal to one filling, the size of
the design would be produced in the fabric, but the richness, and also
the fineness, of the face of the fabric would be entirely lost. To
prevent this it should be the object of the designer to keep the fine
warp-threads entirely on the surface, to interweave the proportion
of ends varying between warp and filling (as in example above, four
warp-threads) separately. This principle of textures requires the
compound harness to be attached; or, in other words, a machine must be
used which is capable of raising not only every alternate thread, but
every third, fourth, or eighth thread, if required, for the formation
of the body of the cloth.
Fig. LXVI. illustrates as plainly as possible the principle of
tying-up to do this work, using a 100 Jacquard machine for figuring,
comber-board threaded in three divisions, four heddles to each leash,
eight compound harnesses.
[Illustration: Fig. LXVI.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXVII.]
In the tying-up of Jacquard harness four heddles to one leash are
generally used, as illustrated at _c_, in Fig. LXVI.; each heddle
containing one warp-thread. Fig. LXVII. shows the arrangement of these
four warp-threads, when using only one heddle to each leash, but in
which the mail contains four eyes. This method is less frequently
employed. Instead of using a 100 machine, as in Fig. LXVI.,
A 200 machine (straight-through) will require 800 warp-threads
for each division.
300 " " " " " 1200 " " "
400 " " " " " 1600 " " "
600 " " " " " 2400 " " "
900 " " " " " 3600 " " "
1200 " " " " " 4800 " " "
To change the tie-up principle from the straight-through method
to the point method, taking a 1200 machine using four heddles per
harness-cord, 9600 warp-threads will be required for each division for
repeat of pattern.
This little example plainly shows the great advantage of this method of
tying-up looms for making the finest damasks, etc.
To explain the general method of this tie-up, commence with Fig. LXVI.,
which represents a 100 machine, three divisions, four heddles to one
leash, eight compound harnesses.
It will not be necessary to explain the threading of the comber-board,
as this is always done on the same plain principles. The four heddles
of the first row deep of comber-board emerge below the board at the
beginning of the first division, marked _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_. The
first row deep in comber-board in the first division, and the last row
deep in comber-board in the third division only are shown; but as these
two rows also indicate the first and last rows in the Jacquard machine,
and as the principle of _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_, and _b_, _b´_, _b´´_,
_b´´´_, has to be observed in every one of these 75 rows deep in width
of comber-board _E´_ to _E´´_ taken, it will explain the tie-up for
the entire number. At _c_, in leash _a_, four distinct heddles are
adjusted; the same thing is repeated in every one of the eight leashes
extended in drawing below the comber-board, giving in return, thus:
four heddles and three divisions in a 100 machine = 4 × 3 × 100, or
1200 warp-threads for the entire fabric.
Now, following the first heddle downwards on leash 1, _a_, _c_,
marked on drawing, _d_, (indicated by dotted lines), No. 1 harness of
the compound harness, _H_, is reached. The cross X on this harness
indicates that the warp-thread drawn through mail fastened on heddle,
_d_, must also be drawn through No. 1 harness; the next heddle from the
same leash will reach No. 2 harness; and so on until No. 4 harness is
taken up, which will finish No. 1 harness-cord of No. 1 leash in the
first division. The second harness-cord, _a´_, will use harness 5, 6,
7, 8; the third harness-cord, _a´´_, will use harness 1, 2, 3, 4, over
again, as used by a; the fourth harness-cord, _a´´´_, will use harness
5, 6, 7, 8, over again, as used by _a´_.
Continue in this manner until leash 100 in the first division on
harness 5, 6, 7, 8, is finished. The second and third divisions
strictly repeat the first.
[Illustration: Fig. LXVIII.]
Fig. LXIX. represents the side elevation for Fig. LXVI. In both
of these drawings some of the letters and figures correspond, as
follows: harness-cords _a_, _a´_, _a´´_, _a´´´_, in first row deep of
comber-board, _E_, _E´_. _H_ shows compound harness set 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8; figures 1, 2, 3, 4, on top of comber-board represent the first
row deep from the front elevation in drawing.
New letters: _B_, the warp-beam; _Z_, the lease of the warp formed by
rods, _Z´_ and _Z´´_; _O_, the distance between the Jacquard harness
and compound harness set, _H_. _D_, the shed, as formed in loom when
weaving. For illustration of this shed pick No. 7 in Fig. LXVIII.,
shows that leashes 2 and 3, or _a´_ and _a´´_, are raised at the same
time. Leashes 1 and 4, or _a_ and _a´´´_, are not raised.
The principle of forming the shed for picking the shuttle will be more
particularly explained later on by Figs. LXX. to LXXV.
[Illustration: Fig. LXIX.]
At _c_, in Fig. LXIX., the beginning of the shed is shown; also the
last woven part of the fabric, _c_, _c´_, _c´´_, which is indicated
as passing around the breast-beam, _F_. _L_, _L´_, _L´´_, _L´´´_,
indicate leashes 1, 2, 3, 4, extending to the Jacquard machine towards
neck-cords 1, 2, 3, 4.
[Illustration: Fig. LXX.]
Fig. LXX. represents a warp-thread forming the bottom part of a shed.
Mail, _L_, and harness, _H_, occupy a position similar to that of mail
and harness for warp-thread passing through No. 1 heddle of leash _a_,
and harness 1 in Fig. LXIX.
Warp-thread passing through leash
No. 2, _a_, and harness 2, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
" 4, _a_, " 4, " " "
" 13, _a´´´_, " 5, " " "
" 15, _a´´´_, " 7, " " "
" 16, _a´´´_, " 8, " " "
[Illustration: Fig. LXXI.]
Fig. LXXI. shows a warp-thread forming part of the top shed by raising
the leash; hence mail, _L_, is shown raised. The compound harness is
supposed to be resting, which allows the warp-thread to slide up to the
height of the required size of shed. This figure illustrates plainly
the following warp-threads in Fig. LXIX.
Warp-thread passing through leash
No. 5, _a´_, and harness 5, in Fig. LXIX. is the same.
" 7, _a´_, " 7, " " "
" 8, _a´_, " 8, " " "
" 9, _a´´_, " 1, " " "
" 10, _a´´_, " 2, " " "
" 12, _a´´_, " 4, " " "
[Illustration: Fig. LXXII.]
Fig. LXXII. illustrates the side view of a warp-thread where the hook
of the Jacquard is not raised; hence, the mail remains in its resting
place. Following the warp-thread towards _c_, the compound harness is
shown raised, thus forming part of the top of a shed. This figure is
designed to show the passage of the warp-thread through mail No. 3 of
leash _a_, and harness No. 3, in Fig. LXIX.
[Illustration: Fig. LXXIII.]
Fig. LXXIII. illustrates a thread forming part of a lower shed. In the
drawing the mail is raised, but at the same time the heddle of harness
is lowered, compelling the thread to rest on the bottom of the lay.
This figure is designed to show warp-thread passing through mail No. 6,
of leash _a´_, and harness No. 6, in Fig. LXIX.
Fig. LXXIV. is a side view of a thread forming the upper part of a shed
where mail and harness have been raised the same as in Fig. LXIX., the
warp-thread passing through mail No. 11 of leash, _a´´_, and harness
No. 3.
Fig. LXXV. illustrates mail not raised and harness down. This change is
not necessary in Fig. IV.; the warp-thread forming the lower part of
the shed.
[Illustration: Fig. LXXIV.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXV.]
In Figs. LXX. to LXXV. the following letters correspond with the same
letters in Fig. LXIX.: _Z´´_, nearest lease-rod to Jacquard harness;
_D_, shed for picking shuttle; _C_, starting point of shed or last
woven place of fabric.
_The Kind of Heddles Required for Compound Harness._
The eyes of these heddles are much longer than those of common heddles.
They must be sufficiently long to allow the six movements illustrated
in Fig. LXX. to LXXV., hence the height of these heddle eyes will
influence the height of the shed.
_Working the Compound Harness by a Separate Machine._
For working compound harness a separate small witch-loom is generally
used, thus saving, to a great extent, the Jacquard cards. In this
manner the ground may be easily altered without changing any cards, it
being only necessary to change the small set of cards on the witch-loom
controlling one repeat of the body weave for the harness. The number of
picks for the harness can also be readily adjusted to one change in the
Jacquard figure without disturbing the cards of any consequence. For
example: in manufacturing a damask fabric, suppose four harness picks
make one change of figure in the Jacquard machine, and it is necessary
to reduce these four picks to one change of figure, on account of
having to use some heavier filling, or other similar reason; this
alteration can be easily made when using two separate machines.
_Number of Compound Harness to Use._
The number of harness used is regulated by the weave required for
raising, and the weave required for lowering.
The number of harness may vary to a large degree, as we may use any
suitable weave from the 4-leaf twill up to the 16-leaf satin. As a
general rule, for fine damasks we use the 8-leaf satin, requiring 8
harness.
_Positions of Compound Harness During Weaving._
There are three distinct positions for the harness: 1st, centre; 2d,
up; 3d, down.
Fig. LXVIII., p. 60, illustrates the 8-leaf satin combining filling and
warp up in one design.
_A few Different Weaves for Working Compound Harness._
[Illustration: Fig. LXXVI.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXVII. Filling Weave as raised in the upper shed
by harness. [X] Risers. [O] Sinkers.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXVIII. Warp Weave to interweave in lower shed
through harness. [O] Warp on face. X Warp down.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXIX. A. Filling up. B. Warp up.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXX. 5-Leaf Satin. Filling. Warp.]
A great variety of combinations of different weaves for this class of
textile fabrics exist. It is only necessary to illustrate a few more
examples to guide us in finding the principles underlying these changes.
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXI. 7-Leaf Satin. Filling. Warp.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXII. 8-Leaf Satin. 8-Harness Broken Twill.
Filling. Warp.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXIII. 8-Leaf Satin. 8-Harness Fancy Twill.
Filling. Warp.]
Fig. LXXIX. is an example of warp and filling, binding in a 4-leaf
twill. Both systems are illustrated for a clear understanding: [X] Fig.
_A_, indicates the raising of the harness for forming the upper part of
the shed; [O] Fig. _B_, indicates the rotation of drawing warp-threads
from the upper shed into the lower shed. Drawing-in draft is for
4-harness (straight).
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXIV. 10-Leaf Satin. 10-Leaf Satin. Filling.
Warp.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXV. 10-Leaf Satin. 5-Harness Satin. Filling.
Warp.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXVI. 12-Harness Satin. Filling. Warp.]
XIII.--Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics.
Gauze fabrics are produced by a separate system of weaves, which
have the peculiar characteristic of warp-threads not lying parallel
to each other. One kind of this warp is called the “douping warp”
or “whip-threads;” these are twisted around the ground-warp. The
ground-threads, as well as the whip-threads, which work together, must
be drawn into one dent.
Jacquard gauze can be worked in various ways; for example: One
whip-thread against one or more ground-threads. More than one
whip-thread against one or more ground-threads.
There are two methods of tying-up for gauze fabrics: 1st. A tie-up in
which the doups are worked by one, two, three or four shafts in front
of the Jacquard harness. 2d. A tie-up in which the gauze figuring
is done all over the fabric, requiring each doup to be arranged for
working separately. If the ground-threads and whip-threads are worked
from the same Jacquard machine, the latter must be divided into two
sections: 1st section for the ground-threads with ground heddles; 2d
section for the whip-threads with standard heddles.
If a fabric contains the gauze in the form of a stripe, arranged one
end ground and one end whip, the same number of hooks are required
for the ground and whip-threads of each section, and an extra dead
harness must be employed; but if this arrangement of one end ground
and one end whip must form figures, then the ground and whip-threads
must form the first section, and the whip-threads alone the second
section. In this case the second section requires only half as many
hooks as the first; and for the same reason, if we are forming figures
with two ground-threads and one whip-thread, the first section will
contain three times as many hooks as the second, etc. Very often two
whip-threads are used for twisting, in which case they must be drawn
together in the doup. If several whip and ground-threads are drawn
into one reed they usually work independently at first on a regular
weave; following this is the gauze weave formed by a certain number of
whip-threads raised either on the left or right of the ground-threads
contained in the same dent. This movement brings into operation the
second section of the machine containing the harness-cords for the
standard heddles. The technical terms for these various combinations
are: single-thread gauze, double-thread gauze, triple-thread gauze, etc.
The tie-up most generally used requires two-thirds of the needles for
ground heddles and one-third of the needles for standard heddles;
hence, if using a 200 machine we find: 128 needles and hooks for the
ground heddles, and 64 needles and hooks for the standard heddles. [See
Fig. LXXXVII., p. 65.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXVII.]
The comber-board is divided into two sections. The rear part (2/3) is
used for the ground, the front part (1/3) is used for the standard.
_Threading of the Harness._
Thread the warp into the ground heddles in the same manner as a common
straight-through tie-up. Then take the first left-hand thread of the
warp and draw it through the doup. The next two warp-threads draw above
the first one on the left-hand side of the same doup. These three
warp-threads must be drawn together in one dent. After drawing the
first pair in one dent, leave one, two, or more dents empty, according
to the fabric. The 4th, 5th and 6th warp-threads, also each subsequent
pair, are threaded the same as the first.
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXVIII.]
[Illustration: Fig. LXXXIX.]
[Illustration: Fig. XC.]
Figs. LXXXVIII. and LXXXIX. are designed for illustrating this point.
The lingoes for the doups are about one-half the weight of those used
for the ground heddles.
Fig. XC. represents a fancy gauze to be executed in this manner.
[Illustration: Fig. XCI.]
[Illustration: Fig. XCII.]
[Illustration: Fig. XCIII.]
[Illustration: Fig. XCIV.]
[Illustration: Fig. XCV.]
Fig. XCI. represents the threading of the harness for a gauze fabric:
_f_, _g_, first and second warp-thread, over the doup; _h_, _i_, third
and fourth, through the doup.
Figs. XCII. and XCIII. illustrate the two movements of the harness in
the gauze weave.
Figs. XCIV. and XCV. illustrate the movements of the harness in the
regular weave: _a_, _b_, represents the comber-board; _c_, the place
where the doup is fastened to the dead harness; _d_, _e_, the standard
heddle; _f_, _g_, _h_, _i_, the mails of the common heddles.
The following are the fourteen different movements that might be
required in regular weaving. The figures show the number of threads up
and the number down, thus: [1/3] equal first warp-thread up; second,
third, and fourth down.
1. [1/3] = _f_ up.
2. [1/12] = _g_ up.
3. [1/21] = _h_ up, doup raised.
4. [1/3] = _i_ up, doup raised.
5. [2/2] = _f_ and _g_ up.
6. [2/11] = _g_ and _h_ up, doup raised.
7. [2/2] = _h_ and _i_ up, doup raised. [Illustrated by Fig. XCIII.]
8. [11/11] = _f_ and _h_ up, doup raised. [See Fig. XCV.]
9. [11/2] = _f_ and _i_ up, doup raised.
10. [11/11] = _g_ and _i_ up, doup raised. [See Fig. XCIV.]
11. [3/1] = _f_, _g_, and _h_ up, doup raised.
12. [3/1] = _g_, _h_, and _i_ up, doup raised.
13. [21/1] = _f_, _g_, and _i_ up, doup raised.
14. [12/1] = _f_, _h_, and _i_ up, doup raised.
These fourteen different movements cover all the possible changes in
regular weaving. The movement (7) illustrated in Fig. 8, in addition to
forming the regular weave, is also necessary to the formation of the
gauze weave.
These few explanations clearly show the great variety of effects
possible for the designer; for he can figure with the regular method
of weaving, and can also figure gauze weaving to exchange with regular
weaving, forming a separate design on the fabric.
Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine.
Having thoroughly described the construction and action of the regular
Jacquard machine, it now remains to illustrate and explain its
modifications. Among the most prominent are:
1st. The Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine.
2d. The Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine.
3d. The Arrangement of Substituting “Tail-cords” in place of the Hooks,
etc.