SNAKES
(order Squamata) (suborder Serpentes)
There are many species of snakes throughout the world (over 2,700
species). Some of these make very good "pets", while others never seem
to thrive in captivity. Because of the many varieties of snakes, the
care of them can vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs that all
snakes, regardless of the species, require in order to do well in
captivity.
All snakes are carnivorous. They eat only whole animals. This food may
vary from termites to rabbits--with all types of animals in between.
This sometimes includes other snakes.
Snakes require clean drinking water, a clean cage to live in, and an all
around healthy environment.
The above requirements are easy to meet, but they must not be treated
lightly. After the basics are met, there are other requirements that
individual species may need.
A common problem with keeping snakes is they often will not eat.
Sometimes the reason is simply that they are not satisfied with their
environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need a limb in their cage. If
they don't have something to climb on they may refuse to eat. Tropical
snakes require a higher cage temperature than what is normal room
temperature. This can be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above the
cage. Always monitor the temperature with a thermometer and try to
maintain it around 85°F. Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of
time burrowing, and unless they can burrow in their cage they may not
eat. Many of the more nervous species of snakes, like the racers,
require a hiding box so that they will feel secure. The hiding box is
often a good idea for any snake that may refuse to eat if all other
conditions are favorable.
[Illustration: Speckled King Snake
_Lampropeltis getulus holbrooki_]
Food preference can be an important factor, even with snakes of the same
species. Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only fish and
amphibians. Non-constricting snakes (racers and coachwhip snakes)
generally do not eat large rodents or birds, but limit their diet to
amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs, lizards, and even small snakes. The
constrictors are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders. There are of
course, exceptions, and some snakes, like the large (non-constricting)
eastern indigo, _Drymarchon corais couperi_, which will eat nearly
anything from toads and frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes
vary in their diet, so do individuals within a species. Fortunately this
is not very common. There are cases of a particular snake eating only a
specific food animal. If a rat snake is not eating mice, it might be
induced to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird. Many snakes in
the wild are nocturnal, and sometimes a particular snake will only eat
if fed at night, with all the lights out.
Always feed the rodent eaters dead food. Often, this will cause a
problem with newly collected animals, but with a little time, your snake
will usually learn to accept dead food. The reason for feeding dead food
animals is to protect the snake from getting a serious bite from a rat
or mouse. If the snake is feeding on insects, fish, or amphibians, the
food can simply be placed in the cage with the snake. If there is more
than one snake in the cage, you should observe the feeding so as to
insure that one snake does not swallow the other snake along with its
meal. If one or both snakes are nervous feeders, they should be
separated during the feeding procedure.
Occasionally, one will come across a snake that will absolutely refuse
to eat under any type of condition. Even though snakes can go for months
without food, eventually a snake will starve to death. If a snake
doesn't eat, it is most advisable to try to release it in an area where
it is native to. Ideally, it should be released where it was collected.
If the snake is not native to your area, you may have to force feed the
snake--as a last resort. It is usually best to try to force a small food
animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded rod and be very
careful not to injure the gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be
sustained for long periods of time by force feeding, but this procedure
will only forestall death for a short time in many cases.
Once your snake proves to be a "feeder", your next major concern is
health. Snakes, like other animals, are susceptible to many types of
diseases. Many of these diseases can be prevented with good husbandry
practices.
A common ailment is mouth rot or canker mouth. This is a bacterial
infection of the mouth and gums that generally starts from an injury to
the snake's mouth. The first symptoms are sores in the mouth--especially
along the edges of the gums. As the disease progresses a white
cheesy-like substance is formed in the mouth and under the lips. The
more advanced the infection, the more substance is formed. Although the
actual mouth rot might not kill the snake, the animal will often refuse
food, and is also very susceptible to secondary infections, which could
be fatal.
Treatment in the early stages is very simple, and can be very
successful. Many different drugs can be used, most of which have a
sulphur base. Sul-met is a common medication that is often used.
Treatment is by making a solution according to directions, and then
irrigating the infected mouth two or three times a day. Also, add some
medication to the drinking water. More advanced cases would need to be
treated with anti-biotic injections. Dosage depends on the size of the
snake and the concentration of the medication.
Respiratory infections are a major concern to anyone keeping snakes.
They generally catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low
temperatures for an extended length of time. The species of snake will
determine its temperature requirements. A native North American snake
will have a higher tolerance for cooler temperatures than a snake from
the tropics.
The first symptom of a respiratory infection to look for would be
bubbles in the mouth. As the cold advances, bubbles will be blown out
the nose, and the mouth will become full of mucus. Untreated, a cold can
develop into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is easy and effective
if given soon enough. First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between
80 to 88°F is recommended. The snake will need injections of an
antibiotic, such as tetracycline or chlormyciten. The size of the snake
will determine the dosage. The injections are usually given at daily
intervals for several days. If you are in an area where there is a
veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he should be consulted
before any treatment is used.
There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are
susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common.
Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep
track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an
illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation after eating; inactivity for
long periods of time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin, are all
signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good
records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake
is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when
it sheds (you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the
snake has grown), when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates.
The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept
track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake.
The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites:
both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites
which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of
parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining
the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is
eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after
eating, then there is reason to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a
simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the
proper medicine. Most worming medications are in liquid form, and they
can be squirted down the snake's throat, or injected into a food animal.
Any snake that is suspected of having parasites, or any new snake in
your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian.
External parasites are of two types: mites and ticks. Ticks are usually
encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by
pulling them off with a pair of forceps. Try to get all of the tick out
from under the skin.
Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection,
they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they
had all been eradicated. Mites appear as little tiny black specks which
are most often seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes. They are often
seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control
is very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective in controlling
mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the
inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they
will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be
taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should
be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days.
Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage and all decorations in
it. The strip will have killed all the adult mites, but not the eggs. It
is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat
the cleaning procedure. The No-Pest strip will also help to control
ticks and flies.
Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for
other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages,
others use store bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type
cages, with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often
recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium, in order to give the
snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural
rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is
recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or
wooden snake cage.
The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snakes spend
so much time coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch, that the
large snake cage is of little value. A cage the size of a 10-gallon
aquarium will be large enough for all but the large pythons or boas
(over 5 feet). Remember to keep the snake's native habitat in mind if
you are going to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not be kept wet
or even damp. Even water snakes need only a dish of water for drinking.
What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The
following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly
kept as "pets":
Rat Snakes (genus _Elaphe_), rodent eaters from eastern and southern
U.S., average size up to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first
caught, but usually tame down. The red rat snake (_Elaphe g.
guttata_) is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes.
King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus _Lampropeltis_), usually eat small
rodents, lizards, and small snakes. Disposition, same as rat
snakes.
Bull Snake (_Pituophis melanoleucus sayi_), a large constrictor, and the
largest snake native to Missouri. Will eat adult rats, mice, and
baby chicks. Usually do well in captivity.
Water Snakes (genus _Natrix_), will eat minnows, frogs, tadpoles, and
sometimes mice. They will bite when captured, and will at times
continue to bite after being in captivity for a long time.
Hognosed Snake (genus _Hetrodon_), a smaller variety, averages 2 to 2½
feet. Feeds only on toads, but nearly always eats in captivity.
Boa Constrictor (_Boa constrictor_), one of the most commonly kept
snakes. Being a tropical snake--it must be kept warm (80 to 88°F).
Will eat rodents and birds.
Burmese python (_Python molurus bivittatus_), which may reach 20 to 24
feet long, is often kept as a pet by the amateur snake collector.
They require the same temperature and food as the boa constrictor.
Reticulated Python (_Python reticulatus_), same as the Burmese python,
but will grow longer. Large specimens will eat rabbits.
African Rock Python (_Python sebae_), same in general needs as the
Burmese Python. Will grow slightly longer, and may not tame as
easily as some other species. Large specimens will eat rabbits.
Ball Python (_Python regius_), another species from Africa, but averages
3 to 4 feet in length. Usually a good feeder on rodents, but at
times may only eat birds. Require the same needs as other tropical
species.
[Illustration: Black Rat Snake
_Elaphe o. obsoleta_]
The following is a list of snakes that may have a few drawbacks as pets,
or are not recommended to keep in captivity:
Racers and Coachwhips (_Coluber_ and _Masticophis_), very nervous ...
seldom eat in captivity.
Ringneck, Brown, and other small burrowing snakes; these secretive
species often will not eat in captivity, and require animal foods
which may be difficult to secure.
Ribbon, Garter, and Green snakes; because they may be hard to feed in
winter, it is best to keep only during the summer months.
Eastern Indigo Snake (_Drymarchon corais couperi_), this species is
protected in the state of Florida, and is becoming rare over all
its range.
Cook's Tree Boa (_Corallus enydris cookii_), this species, as well as
other tree boas, often have a bad disposition, and may feed only
on birds.
Emerald Tree Boa (_Corallus canina_), not only does this species prefer
birds to eat, they also seem to require a very high humidity.
Most tropical snakes do not do well in captivity. This may be due to the
fact that they are taken out of their natural environment and it is next
to impossible to duplicate the climatic conditions that they are used
to.
Although the above lists are far from complete, it is hoped that they
will give the reader some basic ideas on how to select the snakes for
his small, home collection. Once again, it should be emphasized that
within a particular species of snake, there may be some differences in
individual personalities. It is possible to get a black rat snake that
doesn't eat, or a racer (genus _Coluber_) that does not bite and eats
well in captivity. A person should learn from their own experiences, and
also from the experiences of others, both professional and amateur.
The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience,
but it must be remembered that it is also a responsibility. You are
responsible for the care and well-being of the animal. You must learn as
much as possible about the requirements of a particular snake before you
decide to keep it as a "pet".