[Illustration: Tadpole]
TURTLES AND TORTOISES
(order Chelonia)
Overview:
Large numbers of hatchling and adult turtles are sold or traded each
year in the United States. Unfortunately, from the point of view of the
turtles themselves, the majority of them are condemned to death by
unintentional maltreatment and few manage to survive a year. The species
most often abused is the red-eared slider, _Chrysemys scripta elegans_.
Next most common are the map turtles, _Graptemy_, and third in abundance
are the painted turtles, _Chrysemys picta_. All are water turtles and
require much the same care in captivity. Since the red-eared slider is
the most common of all, the general account that follows is based upon
the slider group of turtles. This is the largest group of native
turtles, including some 16 different kinds. All live in ponds and lakes,
and may be given about the same care in captivity. Comparisons with
other groups follow the general account, save the tortoises, or dry land
turtles, which will be discussed in more detail after the aquatic turtle
account.
Aquatic Species:
Description and diet: Water turtles, such as the red-eared slider, vary
in color and usually have webbed feet for swimming. These turtles are
generally carnivorous (meat eaters), and their primary diet consists of
chopped raw beef, horsemeat, fish, worms, and also aquatic greens. Some
water turtles will eat bits of green leafy vegetables, such as fresh
greens, lettuce, endive, and spinach. All turtles are different,
however, and a variety of foods should be offered to determine their
likes and dislikes. Food supplements should also be used. Some of these
are: cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, and powdered calcium or
bone meal. These may be added directly to their food.
Box, wood, and Muhlenberg's turtles or other semi-aquatic species do
well in captivity when a basin of shallow water is provided for soaking.
Diamondbacks need brackish or slightly salty water. These also generally
eat vegetable matter as well as meat.
[Illustration: Red-Eared Slider
_Pseudemys scripta elegans_]
All weather care: As these turtles are generally kept indoors, an
aquarium is the best means of maintaining them. Temperatures may be
controlled by the use of a heater, thermostat, and thermometer. The best
temperature will range between 72 to 85° F. A filter and pump may be
used to keep the water clean. It is advisable to feed the turtles in a
separate container, as foods foul the water quickly.
The aquarium and accessories should be kept clean and scrubbed
periodically. Water turtles may be kept out of water for some time, if
necessary, with no ill effects. However, they cannot eat out of the
water. These turtles must also have sunlight in order to grow and
maintain a hard shell and sound bones. They should be allowed to sun at
least twice a week ... always with a shade of some type over a portion
of the container, so they will not become over-heated.
The aquarium itself should be arranged so that the turtles can leave the
water at will and dry themselves periodically. A cluster of smooth, flat
rocks in the middle, or at one end of the aquarium will permit them to
do so.
Dry Land Species:
Description and diet: Tortoise is the term generally used in referring
to dry land turtles. They seldom swim or enter the water. Carapace and
plastron (upper and lower shell) range from light tan to dark brown in
color; The skin is rough appearing and the legs are scaled and
elephant-like, with no webbing of the feet. Food consists of vegetables,
fruits, grass cuttings, dandelions, petals from various garden flowers,
bits of raw meat that is finely chopped, and canned dog food. Foods such
as carrots, string beans, and corn are valuable in the diet, and should
be ground or scraped. Many of the tortoises are fond of earthworms, so
these should also be offered. Food supplements, such as cod liver oil,
liquid multiple vitamins, powdered calcium, and bone meal, should also
be added to foods periodically. Box, wood, and Muhlenberg's turtles (as
well as other semi-aquatic species) will do well in captivity if a
shallow water dish is provided. These species will generally eat meat as
well as vegetable matter.
Cold weather care: In the fall, around late October or early November,
your tortoise will want to hibernate. It will probably dig its own
burrow out of doors, given it is in the correct environment. If the
conditions outside are not proper for your tortoise to burrow, he may be
placed in a box in a cool, dry area where a constant temperature can be
maintained, such as a garage. Cover him with a layer or two of old,
shredded newspapers. He is now ready to be "stored" for the winter. If
your tortoise is to spend the winter in the house, be sure to keep food
and water available. House temperatures do not permit a tortoise to
hibernate properly, and starvation is possible if he is not allowed to
eat when he stirs about during the winter.
Hot weather care: Hibernation ends some time in spring, usually in
March. The tortoise may be a little sluggish at first, but as the
weather becomes warmer, interest and appetite improve. Water, food, and
shelter from the sun must always be available, and a night shelter is
advised.
Illness and treatments: Most turtle owners are familiar with the basic
care requirements of their pets; however, there are a few common
ailments that may require prompt treatment. The simple remedies here
have been found to be successful in many cases.
Respiratory ailments: Turtles and tortoises are usually susceptible to
colds and pneumonia. Bubbling of the nose and mouth and "gasping" are
symptoms of this. Isolation from the other turtles in a heated box or
aquarium is mandatory. A heat lamp may be used several times a day--but
always with a shaded corner into which the turtle can crawl when he gets
too hot. Cold-remedy salves can also be rubbed on the turtle's nose to
help relieve congestion. The turtle should be kept warm and isolated
until all traces of his cold have disappeared. (Injection of an
anti-biotic serum into the leg or forelimb, once a day, is sometimes
successful, as well as anti-biotic pills given orally; but consult a
veterinarian or Society member before attempting this as some drugs are
dangerous for turtles.) If caught in its early stages pneumonia can be
overcome. The turtle in question should be isolated and kept warm, and
the following medicine should be administered with an eye dropper:
Dissolve together
½ ounce of water
1 tablet Chlortetracycline
4-5 drops liquid vitamins
Administer daily for two days and then skip a day. Repeat. This formula
has proven itself quite effective after 5 or 6 days.
Cracked shell: Immediately place injured turtle in a clean, paper
towel-lined box, and bring indoors so that ants and flies will not
torment him. If shell is bleeding, gently wash it with a mild solution
of boric acid and pat dry. This may have to be done several times before
bleeding stops. Put his box in a warm, quiet spot in the house, and
leave him completely alone except for offering a shallow bowl of
drinking water from time to time. If he survives the first 24 hours, he
will probably pull through. (The lungs are under the carapace, and if
the broken shell has penetrated the lung area, there is practically
nothing that can be done for the turtle.) If the wound is bad or jagged,
it may be filled with Canadian Balsam--after bleeding has stopped and
then securely tape with electrician's tape. The tape may be left on for
several months if necessary, but it should be checked every six weeks or
so, to make sure infection has not set in. Once the turtle has started
eating and resumed his normal routine, he is probably well on the road
to recovery.
Soft shell, and swollen eyes: This is almost always due to an improper
diet and lack of direct sunlight. Add vitamins and ground bone meal to
the food; offer raw, lean chopped meat; and see that the turtle is
placed in direct sunlight for several hours each day. (When turtles are
placed in direct sun, they must have a shaded area into which they can
retreat when the temperature goes too high.) Swollen eyes may also be
bathed in a dilute solution of boric acid to alleviate swelling and
puffiness.
Fungus: This appears as white spots, lumps, or flakes on the skin or
shell. Addition of plain table salt to the aquarium water will often
cure the condition. Fungus on the shell may be helped by painting the
area with 5% iodine or 2% gentian violet solution. Always keep the
turtle out of the water for a period of 2 to 4 hours after applying
either iodine or gentian violet, so as not to wash the medication from
the shell or skin. If the fungus continues after several treatments,
allow a week or so before experimenting with another medication, as many
times the combination of medications can be detrimental to the turtle.
[Illustration: Ornate Box turtle
_Terrapene o. ornata_]
Parasites: Parasites may be suspected if the turtle suffers a great loss
of weight or a loss of appetite without apparent cause, or if he has a
ravenous appetite. Parasites may be evident in the stools, but are not
always readily seen. If suspected, have a veterinarian diagnose and
treat this condition. In addition, shots of vitamins can be administered
periodically for maintaining good health. If, however, the turtle is on
the proper diet, shots such as these may not be needed.
Conclusion:
Many different kinds of turtles make satisfactory additions for your
collection. Actually, every one of our native turtles, at least when
small in size, can be acceptable. Larger examples of some species,
however, are sometimes unpleasant and even positively dangerous as
members of your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that should
be avoided by the amateur herpetologist:
Adults:
Common Snapping Turtles
Alligator Snapping Turtle[1]
Soft-shelled Turtles
Very Large Sliders
Musk Turtles
Mud Turtles
The larger species, or large adults of some species, tend to become
aggressive and dangerous as they grow older, and many times a finger is
mistaken for a morsel of food. Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your
interest in these hard-shelled friends is new.
These are some turtles, of course, that can be handled without fear of
biting or scratching. Any of the smaller species of sliders can make
acceptable additions to your collection. Below is a list of those
turtles that are, and may be handled and studied by the amateur:
Young:
Common Snapping Turtle
Soft-shelled Turtles
Sliders
Musk Turtles
Mud Turtles
Diamond Back Terrapin
Although young turtles make safe additions to your collection, land
turtles of all kinds are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily, and
survive a long time in captivity. They include: Eastern, Florida,
Three-toed, and Ornate Box Turtles, and the Red-Foot Tortoise. None of
these are commonly available from commercial dealers, however.