INTRODUCTION

In recent years the number of people interested in keeping amphibians

and reptiles in captivity has grown rapidly. All too often, these same

people have little knowledge of the proper care needed for their

captives, nor do they know where to turn in order to learn the needs of

their animals.

Pet stores generally do not have the expertise to give out proper

information on the identification and care of amphibians or reptiles.

The booklets they sell on the subject are too general and too vague.

It is the intent of the authors of this special issue to offer the

proper information needed to successfully keep amphibians and reptiles

in captivity. We are by no means THE experts on the subject, nor do we

claim to cover all the facts. However, we do hope that enough

information is furnished to answer most of the common questions asked by

people.

The bibliography has a list of books which go into more detail on

amphibians and reptiles: their identification, and natural history,

range, and care in captivity. Room did not permit the inclusion of

amphibian diseases--thus, the bibliography will be of help there.

Due to the decline in the majority of crocodilians in the world, the

authors do not condone their being kept in captivity by amateur

herpetologists. We also contend that venomous reptiles, as well, do not

belong in a private collection.

Acknowledgments.

A note of thanks goes to the authors listed in the bibliography; for,

without their works, this special issue would have been extremely

difficult.

Tom R. Johnson

Robert N. Bader

Donald J. Coxwell

SALAMANDERS

(Order Caudata)

Background.

Salamanders have been on earth a very long time; as a matter of fact,

the first land vertebrate animal was a type of salamander that evolved

from air-breathing fresh water fish--around 300 million years ago (late

Devonian period). Today, they range in size from a few inches to over

five feet long (the giant salamander of China and Japan reach nearly 5

feet in length).

Salamanders require a moist environment of various degrees--from

slightly moist (as with a newt eft stage), to a completely aquatic

existence (as with the mudpuppy, hellbender, or adult newt). Nearly all

salamanders require water for breeding and egg laying, but there are

some varieties which lay their eggs on land, under logs or in leaf

litter.

There are approximately 280 species of salamanders in the world--North

America, Europe, and Asia sharing the majority of species. Missouri is

the home of some two dozen species and subspecies.

Selection of Species to be Kept.

It would be erroneous to say that all species of salamanders can be

successfully kept in captivity, because, as with other groups of

animals, there are types which are hardy in captivity, and there are

types which are extremely delicate. It is recommended that only the more

hardy species be considered for keeping in the home.

As far as local species are concerned, the various mole salamanders

(genus _Ambystoma_: the tiger, spotted, and small-mouthed salamanders)

seem to do well in captivity. They may live a long time (up to 10 or 12

years for some). They are large (hence, will eat food that is more

available), and they do not require a special temperature range.

The central newt, _Notophthalmus v. louisianensis_, which is locally

common, or the red-spotted newt, _N. v. viridescens_, which is sold in

pet stores, are rather hardy, if kept properly. The mudpuppy and

hellbender may do well, but they require considerably more space, and

should be given a few flat rocks to hide under.

[Illustration: Eastern Tiger Salamander

_Ambystoma t. tigrinum_]

The smaller salamanders of Missouri are on the whole delicate and

require cool temperatures. The best one to try to keep for a while in

captivity is the slimy salamander, _Plethodon g. glutinosus_. The rest

of the smaller salamanders (genus _Plethodon_ and _Eurycea_) are usually

difficult to maintain. If you do secure some of these, it is recommended

that they be kept a short time for observation, and then released in the

same area where they were taken.

Remember: several species of Missouri salamanders are protected by the

Missouri Conservation Department. If you plan to collect your own

specimens, be sure to follow all laws of the Conservation Dept. No

animal can be collected in a state or national park, or taken from any

cave.

Housing Your Captive Salamanders.

1. Terrestrial (land) species. The first consideration for keeping

terrestrial forms is proper moisture. The home terrarium with deep soil

and rooted plants is very good for many salamanders, but it affords too

many hiding places, and you may never see your specimens.

A 1 to 2 inch layer of soil (1/3 black dirt, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 fine

sand) works very well for most land salamanders (mole salamanders, slimy

salamanders, and the California newt). A few flat rocks or slabs of

bark, or some dead leaves will furnish hiding places, and a small,

shallow water dish should be provided. A 5- or 10-gallon aquarium would

be about the right size for keeping several salamanders. Painting the

sides and back with black or dark brown paint will furnish them with

added security. Never crowd too many salamanders into a small aquarium.

In the wild you seldom see more than one or two individuals in any one

hiding place.

The soil mixture should be changed every 2 to 3 weeks, because it will

tend to sour from your captive's excrement.

As far as lighting your vivarium, it is not necessary for the

salamanders. They are all nocturnal, and shy away from any direct light.

Thus, too much light can be harmful, and can also cause the vivarium to

heat up. The proper temperature for most land living salamanders is from

65 to 72°F.

Whatever size aquarium you intend to use to house your salamander, be

very sure it has a tight screen lid. An all glass lid should not be used

because it prevents circulation of air, and allows the humidity to build

up to nearly 100%. The soil mixture on the bottom of the vivarium should

be slightly damp, not wet or soggy. For best results--a gradient of

moisture from nearly dry to damp will furnish your salamanders with an

environment in which they can choose their own "dampness".

2. Aquatic Species. Aquatic salamanders do well in an aquarium with a

thin layer of gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and a few plants. Once

again, a 5- or 10-gallon aquarium would be the right size--but be sure

that the top is tight--aquatic salamanders can also climb out. The water

should be changed as often as necessary to keep it clear and odor free.

Use spring water or aged tap water to insure that they are not exposed

to any chlorine. The use of an aquarium filter will help keep the

salamanders clean.

The water temperature should be kept at between 65 to 72°F. If you wish

to illuminate the aquarium, use a fluorescent lamp, not an incandescent

lamp. Never expose your salamanders to long periods of light, or very

harsh light.

Food and Feeding.

The universal food item that can be fed to most of the salamanders

discussed above is the earthworm. Worms are the natural food for many of

them, they can be stored alive, they can be collected easily, or

purchased at a bait shop. They supply most of the nutritional needs for

salamanders, and they come in various sizes. For large salamanders the

worms can be fed to them whole. Or for smaller species the worms can be

chopped into small pieces and offered to the salamander on the end of a

thin wire. Of course, insects of all sorts can be offered to

salamanders. You can collect them yourself or purchase crickets or meal

worms at a bait shop or pet shop. You may even try feeding small pieces

of liver, beef, or even canned dog food, as well as small strips of raw

fish. Salamanders, like other amphibians, will do well if fed three

times per week. Dusting the food with calcium/phosphorus powder will

help to keep your specimens healthy. Salamanders feed on live, moving

animals, thus they usually eat best if stimulated by movement. The food

can be held with long forceps or on a thin wire, and waved in front of

the salamander. Food not eaten should be removed at once.

Salamanders are rather delicate animals, and they do best if they are

handled as little as possible. With proper care and attention,

salamanders can be very interesting and attractive animals in captivity.

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