CHAPTER XX.

EXPEDITIONS ON HORSE AND ON FOOT.

Comfortable couch--A terrible _sortie_--The borrowed animal

reclaimed--A bad position--Lord Raglan lends me another

steed--General Estcourt--Female improvements--Visit to the French

camp--A French canteen--A lively vivandière--French regimental

kitchens--Discoveries--Interview with Colonel Steele--Pertinent

remarks--A carriage--Mrs. Estcourt and her sister--General Camp

Hospital--Cathcart’s Hill--Strange reports--Concert _à la_

Soyer--Receipt for a stew--Conversation with Sir John Campbell--A

flag of truce--A good peep at Sebastopol--A cavalcade of

amateurs--A sad spectacle--A narrow escape--Noisy night.

Next morning, I found myself wrapped up in a horse-cloth, with a pair of

top-boots for a pillow. The unfeeling and ungrateful board to which I

had intrusted my precious limbs, had by the morning stamped his patron’s

seal upon my back. The following day we learnt that a terrible sortie

had taken place in the night, and that there had been a severe loss of

men on both sides. At an early hour the court-yard was thronged with

officers; despatches were flying in every direction; the cannon was

roaring as usual, but the fusillade had ceased. I then went to the

stable for my pony, when I found the owner, Mr. Day, upon his back, just

going home.

“Ah, Monsieur Soyer, I made sure that you had lost my pony as well as

your own. I expected you back immediately, being in want of it.”

“I was not aware of that, or I would have walked from your place sooner

than have deprived you of it.”

“Oh, never mind. Have you heard anything of your animal?”

“No! but I am going to look after him this morning. That is the reason

why I slept at head-quarters last night.”

“I am going about the camp,” said he, “and will inquire for you.”

He then started, of course leaving me without a horse, and with dreadful

pains in my back and legs, which I attributed to the softness of the bed

with which I had been favoured; though I could not boast of a single

feather, like that Tocrisse of a recruit, who took one out of his

master’s feather bed, laid it down on the boarded floor of his hut, and

next morning told his companions that his master must be foolish to

sleep upon a feather bed.

“Why?” asked they.

“Why, if one feather is so hard, what must the lot the captain sleeps

upon be?”

The worst of my position was, how to get another horse, as it was

impossible for me to walk all day about the camp, being so stiff and

tired. I went to Lord Raglan’s coachman, and inquired if he had one to

spare. He replied--

“Monsieur Soyer, we can spare a pony for you, but you must ask

permission of the master of the horse or Lord Raglan, as I have special

orders not to lend one upon my own responsibility. I am sure his

lordship will let you have it immediately.”

At this moment I caught sight of Lord Raglan’s valet, and I begged him

to make the request; which he did, and came to tell me that his lordship

desired I should have it by all means. Once more mounted, I made an

early call upon the friends of the previous night, most of whom resided

round head-quarters. I had the pleasure of being introduced to General

Estcourt, who took me to see the printing press where my receipts for

the army were done--some of which have appeared in the public press.

Afterwards I went with him to his quarters, which, though small, were

very neatly arranged. The taste was not military, and I thought that I

detected the work of a female hand, which I could not help remarking to

the general.

“You are right, Monsieur,” said he, smiling--“it has only lately been

arranged by ladies. Mrs. Estcourt and my sister are here, and this is a

little bit of their handywork. They are staying on board ship at

Balaklava, and come here every day. Before they arrived I had only this

small room (showing me his bed made upon boards) where I sleep as well

as ever I did in my life. The only thing which awakes me in the night is

when the cannon ceases firing--I am so used to it.”

“I believe that, general, and have no doubt you seldom miss hearing a

report. In fact, you are the nearest of those at head-quarters to

Sebastopol.”

I then inquired about the sortie of the previous night. The general said

he did not know the result of it, and very kindly invited me to

breakfast, which I declined, having to go round the French camp in

search of my pony.

“I shall be happy,” said General Estcourt, “to do anything I can for

you; and if you call in the afternoon, my wife and her sister will be

here, and I will introduce you to them.”

Thanking him kindly, I retired, and proceeded round the French camp

making inquiries; then to their head-quarters, where I met Captain

Boucher, General Canrobert’s aide-de-camp, with whom I had the pleasure

of travelling. He promised to introduce me to the general, who, he said,

would be very glad to see me. Upon my telling him about my pony, he

remarked--

“If he is in our camp you are sure to get him back, for we have put a

stop to that kind of piracy by very severe punishment. They used to come

and steal our horses from our very stables; but tell me what sort of a

horse he is, and I will advertise him with the others, and we shall know

in less than five or six hours if he is in our camp? the plan we have

adopted cannot fail.”

Having described the animal to the captain, I thanked him for his

kindness.

Considering my French review terminated, I thought of returning at once

to the English head-quarters, having to see several of the authorities

upon business. On my way I happened to pass by a nice French canteen. I

inquired if I could get any breakfast? A rather stout vivandière,

dressed in the uniform of the Imperial Guard, very politely said to me:

“What a stupid question to ask! Do you think we have not everything

required for the purpose here? Perhaps, Captain of the Lord knows what

regiment, you think we have come out merely to thread pearls, sing

‘Partant pour la Syrie,’ and dance the Fandango.”

On my way I visited several regimental kitchens and tasted the soup.

Some was better than at others. They had no vegetables excepting some

vegetable marrow--more likely to spoil the soup than improve it. I made

several important discoveries respecting the system of cooking pursued

in the French camp, after visiting, with some of my new acquaintances, a

row of twelve kitchens, which number, they informed me, was required for

each regiment--being at the rate of one per company. One man was told

off as cook for every squad or mess of sixteen. The buildings were

composed of mud and stone, and covered an extent of about four hundred

yards. I bade my brave companions farewell, and left them quite a happy

man, having entirely forgotten horse and saddle, in making the discovery

that in lieu of four hundred yards of space, a dozen buildings, and

about eighty men for each regiment, an immense consumption of fuel, and

smoke enough to blind three parts of the army--as the men were all cooks

in turn--my system was simple, effective, and vastly superior to that

even of the French, which had hitherto always been considered as

preferable to the English. This was indeed the case, for all French

soldiers understand a little cooking, and their canteen, pan was far

superior to that in use amongst the English troops, which I condemned at

first sight in the camp at Chobham.

I returned to head-quarters, intending to communicate my discovery to

Lord Raglan; but learning that he was very busy, and would not be

disengaged till evening, I went to Colonel Steele, who, in spite of the

pressure of business, gave me an immediate audience, and promised to

speak to Lord Raglan on the subject. Head-quarters were that day, in a

manner, taken by storm. They were literally besieged, and this gave me

an opportunity of getting acquainted with several officers and other

officials whom I had not the pleasure of knowing--or, at least, only by

sight. Amongst these were Sir George Brown, Sir W. Codrington, Sir Colin

Campbell, Lord Rokeby, Captain Whitmore, and Brevet-Major A. Macdonald.

Lord Raglan passed me in the passage, and said, “You wish to see me,

Monsieur Soyer?”

Knowing his lordship was much occupied, I replied, “Colonel Steele will

give you the particulars that I came to communicate.”

“That will do; but have you found your horse?”

“No, my lord.”

“I have been to visit Miss Nightingale. She is still very ill. Bad job,

bad job, poor lady!” he continued, walking away towards Colonel Steele’s

office, with his hands full of papers.

After this I called upon Doctor Hall, with whom I had a few minutes’

conversation upon business. Louis was somewhere about, busily engaged,

and, as usual, unwilling to give a direct reply, no matter what question

you put to him. He came to see me. I inquired if he knew anything about

the sortie of the previous night, upon which he answered that the black

horse he rode the day before had thrown him in the mud, and made him in

such a mess. I replied in his style:

“The sun is very hot to-day.”

Upon which he observed, “he never was there in his life.”

I begged of him to tell me how he was to-morrow.

“Don’t believe that,” said he; “it is quite false.”

An interesting young man indeed was Louis.

A very great curiosity then made its appearance, breaking the thread of

our scientific conversation. What, reader, do you think it was? A

carriage!--a thing unknown in the camp--or at least a bad imitation of

one--drawn by two very obstinate mules, one pulling against the other,

which seemed to amuse my intelligent friend Louis, who never liked to

see anything going on smoothly. General Estcourt went out to meet it,

and two ladies alighted. To this Louis thoroughly objected,

saying--“Ladies, indeed! they are the two female Zouaves who performed

in the _Anglaises pour Rire_, at the theatre in their camp. One,” said

he, “is Jean Huguet--the other Panaudet, aide-de-camp to the drum-major

of a regiment of cavalry. The first plays Lady Painbeche in that

tragedy--the other, Lady Don’t-you-wish-you-may-get-it.”

Very fertile indeed was the brain of Louis at composition of the higher

school; and, like Marplot, never wishing to see anything in its right

light, he succeeded admirably. The sight of a carriage was something

wonderful, but two ladies at once, and fashionably dressed, was too much

good-luck. I advanced towards them, and had the honour of being

introduced by the general to Mrs. Estcourt and his sister. The general

invited me to walk in, and I had the honour of taking a glass of wine

with the fair--who might well be called fairies at the time--ladies

being so scarce, in fact, all but invisible, in the Crimea.

After a short, but very interesting, conversation with the ladies, I

retired, leaving some copies of my receipts with Mrs. Estcourt, who

kindly undertook to look at the proofs before printing. Thence I

proceeded to the General Camp Hospital, and there met Doctor Mouatt, who

told me he was waiting for the bricks for his oven from the Ordnance

Office at head-quarters. I informed him that I had given in the plan for

a kitchen, and endeavoured to convince him of the necessity of having it

done at once.

“I am well aware of that, and it shall be attended to.”

All inquiries respecting my pony were fruitless. At last, upon asking at

a canteen, a soldier told me he had heard of one being found in some

regiment, but could not tell me which one, though he thought it was

somewhere about Cathcart’s Hill.

On arriving at Cathcart’s Hill, I met Sir John Campbell, who invited me

to take some refreshment and a glass of Bordeaux. We descended to his

rocky abode in front of Sebastopol, whence you could trace every shot or

shell which passed, as well as view the whole city. On recounting my

adventure of the lost pony, and of my being absent two days from

Balaklava,

“We heard,” said the aide-de-camp to Sir John, “that you had lost two

ponies.”

“No! no!” said I, “one at a time is quite enough, captain.”

“I can assure you that is the joke at head-quarters. I also heard of

your concert _à la Soyer_.”

“We spent a regular London evening,” I replied.

“I wish I had been there,” said the general; “we are getting very dull

in our division. Before you go, Mons. Soyer, come and see my kitchen.”

“I will, general.”

Though very small, it was more deserving that title than the one at Lord

Raglan’s.

“Here,” said Sir John, “is our ration meat; I am sure you cannot make a

tempting dish out of these materials, especially from the salt meat,

which requires so much soaking, it is so hard.”

“Well, general, I will not say I can make a dish worthy of Lucullus out

of this; but I will try to make something palatable and fit to eat.”

“I can assure you, Monsieur Soyer, that if you succeed, it will be

conferring a great boon upon the army; and you must give them the

receipts.”

I did as follows: I cut about two pounds of salt beef, and as much salt

pork, in pieces of about a quarter of a pound in weight, placed them, in

a canteen pan with cold water, and set it on the fire. When lukewarm, I

took the pan off, washed the meat well, and threw the water away. I then

added three pints of fresh water, a quarter of a pound of onions sliced,

two ounces of sugar, a teaspoonful of pepper, and two ounces of rice. I

set it to stew and simmer gently for two hours. The general said:--

“You must come and dine with us about that time.”

“I should certainly much like to taste it, general; but I must be at

Balaklava before seven o’clock to-night. To-morrow I am coming over to

the General Hospital, and if you will be kind enough to order some to

be saved for me, that I may taste it when I come, I shall esteem it a

great favour.”

“I will do so, Monsieur Soyer, but try and be here to dinner. We shall

dine about five o’clock.”

The stew by this time began to simmer, and upon tasting the broth, I

found it already very palatable, without being too salt. I begged of the

cook to let it simmer very gently, which he promised to do.

We prepared to separate. Before leaving, I said, “The soldiers will be

able to do their rations the same way. I have recommended it to

Commissary Filder, who has agreed to it, and consented that the salt

rations should be issued the night before, thus giving the soldiers time

to soak the meat well. In consequence of this, it will require less

sugar; although it is rumoured that a quarter of an ounce is to be added

to their daily rations. They will then have as much as they require; and

when my new field-stoves are issued, they will admit both of the soaking

and the cooking of the meat; and various messes can be made, almost

impracticable in the small tin canteens now in use.”

I then told the general of my visit to the French kitchens, and what I

had seen there. He agreed with me that they employed too many men,

especially in time of war. It is true that the French soldiers

understood cooking much better than our men did, but, nevertheless,

their system admitted of great improvements. We were then standing in

front of Sir John’s cave facing Sebastopol. Of a sudden all the

batteries ceased firing, and Sir John exclaimed, “Hallo! there is a flag

of truce hoisted on the Russian side, and it is accepted. No doubt it is

for leave to bury the dead. Now is the time to have a good peep at

Sebastopol, Mons. Soyer; you have two hours for that purpose.”

The generals, staff officers, and a number of military men who were

present as lookers-on, started off; and I of course followed, making

sure Sebastopol was not more than a mile and a half or two miles

distant--which, _à vol d’oiseau_, it was not; but there were four or

five deep ravines, which made the distance much longer. The few who

started from the hill were joined by many on the road, and we soon

formed a small cavalcade of amateurs. I understood, from several parties

of whom I inquired, that we should have plenty of time to go and return

before the recommencement of hostilities, and that there was not,

therefore, the slightest danger. As it was on the French side the sortie

had taken place, some went one way and some another; and only about six

of us went towards the French trenches. Upon our arrival we experienced

some difficulty in getting in, and it was full twenty minutes before

they would admit us.

One of the gentlemen present--an English officer, unknown to me--wrote

our names upon his card, and, by order of the commandant of a battery,

we were allowed to enter. The sight is too painful to dwell upon, from

the immense numbers of dead and wounded piled one upon the other. They

were mostly young men, who had fallen so bravely in defence of their

country in this glorious, though disastrous, combat. I could not help

remarking, both in the French and Russian dead, that those who had been

killed by gun-shots passing through the body lay as if they had fallen

in to a sweet slumber, with a smile upon their cold lips, and a happy

and pleasing expression of countenance, very different to the fearful

and contorted appearance generally presented, when from our comfortable

homes we are summoned by that “strict serjeant--Death,” in consequence

of old age or illness. This induced me to say to my companions in the

trenches, “It appears to me as if death had not time to convey them to

his mournful shore, but that the genius of glory had unexpectedly

stepped in, and taken possession of their souls, which were now happily

ascending to heaven and a better world; while, on the contrary, those

who have lost a limb or received serious wounds in the head, appear to

have expired in the most painful torture.”

The funeral service was going on rapidly and solemnly on all sides. The

main attack had been against the French, and their newly-arrived

Imperial Guard suffered considerable loss. The greater part of the time

allowed for the armistice had now elapsed, and we therefore thought of

retiring. None of us were, however, acquainted with the French trenches,

and it took us a considerable time to find our way out. I must have

taken a wrong turn, or at least the man to whom I had entrusted my pony

had done so, although I had given him a franc, and promised him another

on getting out all right, merely to see that no one untied the pony. As

he was on duty at the time, and agreed to do this, I trusted him with

it. My friends found their steeds where they had left them. Pondering

upon my ill-luck, and fearing the pony, which belonged to Lord Raglan,

was also lost, I felt much perplexed, so I scrambled up between the

gabions, and perceived, to my great joy, a man leading my pony about in

the ravine. I met the person with whom I had left him, and he told me

that his commanding-officer would not allow the pony to remain there any

longer, as hostilities would begin again immediately, and being in sight

of the enemy, they might think it belonged to a superior, and direct

their fire that way; and having some other duties to perform, he gave my

steed in charge of another man, and requested me to give the other man

the franc I had promised him.

I ran off to the man, making sure I should reach him in two minutes, but

it took me above twenty. Instead of going towards him, I got near the

Russian side, and had it been dark instead of day, I have no doubt I

should have been taken prisoner, from being unable in the short time

left of the suspension of hostilities to retrace my steps. One of the

sentries who had seen us came and advised me to be off as soon as

possible, as the firing would begin again directly. Thanking him, I got

my pony, and was no sooner mounted than the cannonade and fusillade

thundered in every direction; and some missiles passed me much too close

to be pleasant.

A regiment of French soldiers who had just been relieved from duty, and

were on their way to their quarters, told me they were going to the

Clocheton, a place of which I had heard, but did not know. I followed

them, as the night was fast setting in and rain was falling. I passed

it, with a jolly set of fellows, full of song, cognac, and rum; and, as

I stood some drink, I was set down in their estimation as a gentleman. I

afterwards slept upon some straw, on the floor of the canteen. My horse

had a very good meal, and plenty of water, but was compelled to remain

out all night, which annoyed me very much. It could not, however, be

helped. We had a very noisy night, and several shots were heard hissing

over our heads, as we were only a few hundred yards from the small house

called the Clocheton, so celebrated and well known in the French camp.

It was from that picturesque spot that Monsieur de Bazancourt wrote his

popular history of the war.

Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War. With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions · 第 20 / 38 章