CHAPTER III.

OFF TO THE WAR.

Reception at the War Office--Full powers granted--The Duke of

Cambridge--His _chef de cuisine_, Comte--Model of a portable camp

or field stove--Visit to Lord Shaftesbury--Dr. Andrews--An

encouraging porter--Phonetic experiments--Mr. Stafford’s kind

reception--Model of the stove inspected by the Duke of Cambridge

and by Lord Panmure--Interview with Mr. Brunel--Dr. Mayne--Question

of patent--Sir Benjamin Hawes’ office--Stafford House

again--Letters of introduction--Honourable Mrs. Herbert--A recreant

secretary--Quite at a non-plus--A friend in need--Farewell at

London Bridge--Pavilion Hotel, Folkestone.

At nine o’clock next morning I was at the War Office by appointment.

Lord Panmure arrived at half-past, and by the kindness of Mr. Ramsay,

who had mentioned my arrival, I was immediately introduced and most

cordially received. After a few words on my part, as I had not had the

pleasure of seeing Lord Panmure since I left the Reform Club, he

inquired what I proposed doing in respect to the cooking department of

Scutari Hospital. Stating briefly that which I had previously explained

in detail to the Duke of Argyle when at Stafford House, and with which

Lord Panmure seemed to be perfectly acquainted, he said to me,--

“You must, after you have done there, go to the Crimea, and cheer up

those brave fellows in the camp;--see what you can do! Your joyful

countenance will do them good, Soyer; try to teach them to make the best

of their rations!”

I then observed that, first of all, I must try and succeed in the

hospitals; secondly, that, if the troops in the Crimea had the same

small tin camp-kettle I had seen in the camp at Chobham, it would be

impossible for me to improve the style of cooking, as they were much

too small, and burnt too much fuel, more especially in the open air.

“Well,” said Lord Panmure, “can you substitute anything more applicable

for the camp, and which can be easily carried with the regiments while

on march?”

“I will set my head to work and try, and if any plan which I consider

practicable strikes me, I will have a model of it made, and submit the

same for your lordship’s approval.”

“Well, do.”

“With reference to the hospital at Scutari, I believe that is a

permanent building, situated near a large metropolis, full of resources,

and I have nothing to risk going there and setting to work immediately.

I shall start in the full conviction of being able to do some good, if

your lordship honours me with your full confidence and grants me the

power of acting according to my own judgment in a profession which I

have successfully practised for upwards of twenty years.”

“Very good, Soyer! I shall give orders to that effect, and furnish you

with letters of introduction to every department.”

“Now, I hope you will do me the honour of accepting my services as I

offered them, through the medium of the public press; such acceptance on

the part of your lordship will, I can assure you, much facilitate the

progress of my undertaking.”

“I understand your meaning, Mr. Soyer; but I must make some arrangement

for your expenses.”

“Those, of course, I shall accept, or I should be giving offence to your

lordship as well as the Government; more especially as I am, after

visiting Scutari, to proceed to the Crimea.”

“Well, tell me when you can start,--the mail leaves at noon to-morrow.”

“I should be most happy to leave to-morrow, but previous to my departure

for so long and unexpected a journey, I have some important private

affairs to settle; it will therefore be impossible.”

“Ah, truly! then I leave it to you, Soyer; but the sooner you go the

better.”

“Your lordship may depend upon my anxiety and promptitude; not a day, or

even a minute shall be lost.”

“Fare you well, Soyer; come and see me before your departure.”

“Of course I will; but, begging your pardon, to whom shall I address

myself for any further information I may require?”

“To myself, and no one else,” was Lord Panmure’s reply.

“I should be sorry to interrupt you in the incessant business you have

from morning till night.”

“My secretary, Mr. Ramsay, will always be here; but do not hesitate, if

you require it, to see me.”

“I certainly will not.”

After a few words with Mr. Ramsay upon the subject of my interview, and

what was decided upon, I immediately went to inform the Duchess of

Sutherland of the result of my visit, at which her Grace expressed her

gratification, and requested me to call again prior to my departure for

the East, stating that she would give me some important letters of

introduction to persons at Scutari, which would be most useful to me.

After promising to do this, I retired. My intention was then to pay a

visit to the Duke of Cambridge, who at that time took great interest in

the subject, he having lately visited the hospital at Scutari; and made

important observations upon the system of cooking carried on there.

As I was on my way to St. James’s Palace, I met his Highness,

accompanied by the Honourable James Macdonald, leaving the house; and

having paid my respects, he inquired if I was going to Scutari, to which

I replied in the affirmative. In a few words I gave him the result of my

interview with Lord Panmure, and also spoke of the warm interest the

Duchess of Sutherland took in the subject.

“Yes, I am aware of it,” said he. “I had the pleasure of seeing her

Grace yesterday.” I then made a few inquiries respecting the state of

the hospitals there, which his highness very kindly described to me.

The Duke remarked--“Your friend Comte will be able to give you all the

information you may require, as he was with me at Scutari, and saw all

the kitchen department in detail.”

“Many thanks, your highness; I shall do myself the pleasure of paying

him an early visit.”

Five minutes after I was with my friend Comte, the Duke of Cambridge’s

_chef de cuisine_, who kindly initiated me into all the doings, both in

the camp and in the hospitals on the Bosphorus. This information was of

great service to me.[4]

Upon leaving my friend I hastily returned home, intending to draw out

the plan of a model for a portable camp or field stove, which could also

be applied to the use of the hospitals. Having heard that no regular

kitchens had been established there, I was anxious to have a simple

apparatus to take out with me of which I understood the working, and

which might be put in action immediately on my arrival. In a very short

time I hit upon an idea which I thought could be easily carried out, and

would answer perfectly. Losing no time, I jumped into a cab and

immediately drove to the eminent gas engineers and stove makers, Messrs.

Smith and Phillips, of Snow-hill. On submitting my plan to those

scientific gentlemen, they pronounced it practicable, and promised me a

model, one inch to the foot, to be ready in a day or two.

Although the snow was falling heavily, I paid an early visit to Lord

Shaftesbury, to whom I had the honour of being permitted to dedicate my

last work--the “Cookery for the People.”

His lordship gave me a most cordial reception, and was much, pleased to

hear of my intention of going to the East. Lord Shaftesbury made several

useful observations respecting the importance of my mission. I bade him

adieu. His lordship kindly wished me all the success I could desire, and

said that he should be happy to hear of my proceedings, of which I

promised to inform him a short time after my arrival.

As I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Ramsay to Dr. Andrews, I

proceeded to that gentleman’s office, where I found several medical

gentlemen waiting, with some of whom I had the pleasure of being

acquainted. Others were engaged testing samples of preserved milk in

glasses; and having asked me to test some, I selected one which they all

agreed was the best: I believe it turned out to be Gamble’s preserved

milk, in tins. My letter of introduction having been given to the

doctor, I had an immediate interview.

After listening to my few inquiries, he kindly wrote me a letter of

introduction to Dr. Cumming, the superintendent at Scutari, and all the

hospitals on the Bosphorus, promising me his support, and requesting

that I might have all I required in my department upon application to

the purveyor. He then put me in communication with a gentleman in charge

of the stores, who would give me all the information respecting the

kitchen utensils then in use in the hospitals. Having taken notes of

everything, I retired perfectly satisfied with the important information

I had gathered in so short a time.

I was well aware of the multiplicity of business daily transacted by the

doctor, and the difficulty of obtaining a private interview with him,

even on business, as one of the assistant porters told me when I called

early one morning, that I might call till doomsday, and not be able to

see him. This, of course, I took for granted, as no doubt the doctor

would upon this solemn occasion be more engaged than ever. I must,

however, observe that he at first took me for a merchant who had been

for several years trying to persuade the English faculty to sanction or

adopt the use of leeches to the same extent as is done in France. Not

much flattered by the comparison, I wished him better manners for the

future.

“I beg your pardon, sir; but not being on the military list, I did not

know you. Why didn’t you tell me you was Monseer Soyewere, then I should

have knowed you? Of course, everybody knows you in England, Ireland,

Wales, and Scotland.”

“Well, never mind; but did I not give you my card?”

“Of course you did; but I could not make out the name of So-ye-were from

five such letters as that,” said he, showing my card to some one

present. “Soyer! surely that never can be So-ye-were!”

“You spell and write admirably. Thank you for the wrinkle. I shall have

my card altered.”

I told the cabman to drive me to the residence of Mr. Stafford, M.P., at

whose chambers I had the day before left a letter of introduction from

the Duchess of Sutherland. I had the pleasure of a very interesting

interview with that gentleman, who had then just returned from Scutari.

Having given me the necessary details of what was most required, and

about the number of assistants I should take with me to insure immediate

success, he promised to furnish me with several letters of introduction,

if I would send or call for them before my departure.

“I shall, certainly,” said I, “much prefer calling, were it only to have

the advantage of a little more of your valuable information upon any

subject which may strike you after my departure; and I thank you for

your kind and valuable suggestions.”

“When do you think of starting?”

“In a couple of days at the latest.”

“Very well; the letters shall be ready without fail, and two or three

small parcels, which you will be kind enough to deliver for me--one

especially for Miss Nightingale, rather fragile, and which I cannot send

by post.”

“I shall be most happy; jusqu’au plaisir de vous revoir.”

I devoted the rest of that day to my private affairs, packing, and

paying farewell visits. The next morning, at half-past nine, Messrs.

Smith and Phillips, according to promise, brought me a most beautiful

small model of the field-stove, which they warranted first-rate, and to

be capable of working in or out of doors, and in all weathers. I

immediately proceeded to the War-Office, to show the model, and explain

the principle to Lord Panmure. In the waiting-room I had the honour of

meeting the Duke of Cambridge, which gave me an excellent opportunity of

explaining its merits. The Duke appeared to approve of it, and

particularly noticed the great economy of fuel consequent upon the

construction and smallness of the furnace. The Duke made some important

remarks, and gave me a few hints upon the cooking regulations both in

the hospitals and in the camps. These I took note of, and after

explaining my plan of transport, I was quite delighted at having had

such an opportunity of conversing with the Duke on a subject in which I

was aware he felt particular interest. Mr. Ramsay, the secretary, having

sent for me, I quitted the Duke; and, before leaving, I informed him

that I had seen my friend Comte, and that he had given me all the

assistance in his power, and had also told me that his highness had

presented the hospital with a very nice _petite batterie de cuisine_,

which, no doubt, I should find very useful upon my arrival.

“Adieu, Monsieur Soyer, I wish you well, and hope you will succeed.”

On reaching Mr. Ramsay’s office, that gentleman kindly informed me that

if I wished to see Lord Panmure I had better wait till he went to take

his luncheon. I then stated that my object was to show his lordship the

model of a stove I had invented for the use both of the hospitals and

the army.

“Walk into the next room; Lord Panmure will be there in a few minutes,

and you will have plenty of time to show it without interfering with his

business.”

I had not waited ten minutes before Lord Panmure came in alone.

“Ah, Mr. Soyer, what have you there?”

“The model of a stove I wish to submit to your lordship. It is one which

will, I believe, suit admirably for cooking both in and out of doors.”

After closely examining it, and listening to the details I had

previously given to the Duke of Cambridge, Lord Panmure approved of it,

and requested me to have another made, which he might keep by him for

inspection.

He then inquired how many cooks I should take with me.

“Only a few from Paris,” I replied, “as I wish to make a trial before

engaging many people; besides, I hope to be able, in a very short time,

to instruct the soldiers, who, being under discipline, might prove as

useful as any cooks.”

Lord Panmure seemed pleased at my anxiety to instruct the soldiers; and,

as he very justly remarked--“We want them to learn how to cook their

rations to the best advantage, and that your instructions should remain

for ever among them. Well, I have settled all you wished me to do; and

my secretary, Mr. Ramsay, will remit you all the letters you require.

When do you think of starting?”

“By the next mail.”

“Well!” said his lordship, shaking me heartily by the hand, “Good-bye,

if I do not see you again before your departure.”

“It would only be troubling you; I therefore beg to take this

opportunity of thanking your lordship for the kind reception and

encouragement I have received, and, still more, for the confidence with

which you have honoured me. I assure you that it will cause me to be

most careful and economical, and it will be my pride to improve the diet

without increasing the expense to Government. This may not be effected

at first; but when the system is once introduced, and fairly

established, I will answer for both a great amelioration as well as a

saving.”

“I am confident, Soyer, that you will do your best.”

“Your lordship may depend upon me for that, were it only for my own

sake.”

“Well, write as soon as you arrive, and let us know how you get on.”

Upon leaving, I met Mr. Ramsay, and related to him _verbatim_ what had

passed between Lord Panmure and myself. I then showed him the model,

which he understood perfectly well, and gave me the engineer, Mr.

Brunel’s, address. I called upon that gentleman, and had the pleasure of

an interview. He at once gave his full and entire approval of the

principle, saying, “You really come at a most propitious time; Dr. Mayne

and myself are actually busily engaged discussing a plan for

establishing kitchens in the Smyrna hospital. Yours will answer very

well, and assist us materially, as it is always a tedious department to

construct in order to be effective, and work properly. No doubt they

will be applicable to every public institution; besides, what a small

quantity of fuel they must consume.”

“Very little, indeed; and with this simple regulator you may manage the

ebullition to a nicety, even in the open air. I shall also beg to

remark, that they will be made of a beautiful metal, that will never

require tinning; and the whole, though light in weight, will be

extremely strong, and will last several years without needing repairs,

or, at least, very trifling ones, that will not interfere with their use

for a single day. They will take up but little room, and may be easily

kept clean. No bricks are required, no chimney to be swept, and they can

be as easily removed as any piece of furniture in your room.”

“You are perfectly right; and I give you my candid opinion, they are the

very stoves required for the purpose. I should like Dr. Mayne to see it;

if you can, call as you go to the War Office, and show him the model. I

can then speak with him upon the subject.”

“With the greatest of pleasure.”

As Dr. Mayne had not arrived when I called, I went and fetched a

passport for myself, and one for my secretary. Upon my return, the

doctor had examined the model, and seemed much pleased, saying--“It

will answer very well.” I left the address of the manufacturers with

him, and then retired. They were immediately adopted both at Smyrna, and

later at Rankioi.

A gentleman present, who seemed to have taken a great deal of interest

in our descriptive conversation, followed me to the door, and, in a low

voice, asked if I had taken out a patent.

“No, I have not; but I shall put my name and label upon them.”

“Well, if you were to take out a patent, you would make a fortune.”

“You may be right; but upon such an occasion I should fancy myself

wrong. I will therefore give it, _pro bono publico_. I am well aware

that by making it more complete I could take out either registration or

patent, but I would not do that for the world; as it would be

immediately reported that I expected to be repaid for my services by the

profits of the patent of the stove, and upon these grounds I decline any

such proceeding.”

As it was then about three o’clock, I went, by appointment, to Sir

Benjamin Hawes’ office to bid that gentleman adieu, and to receive his

final orders, showing him at the same time the model, which he seemed to

appreciate thoroughly. He gave me the best advice, and promised me his

powerful support throughout my culinary campaign. In return, I engaged

to communicate all my movements, and retired.

At noon, next day, I again called at Stafford House, “not by

appointment.” On being informed of my visit, the Duchess at once

favoured me with an audience. “I am come,” said I, “to announce my

departure. I wish, ere I leave to-morrow, to thank your Grace, and to

show you the model of my new stove which I mean to introduce into the

hospital kitchens.”

“Ah!” exclaimed her Grace, “I must go and fetch the Duke. He will be

highly pleased with it, and he wished very much to see you before your

departure.”

The Duke soon entered the great hall, with a large party, to whom I

explained the principle, as I had before done to the Duke of Cambridge.

I also stated that the day previous I had had the honour of showing it

to Lord Panmure, and Mr. Brunel, the celebrated engineer, all of whom

were much pleased with its efficacy, simplicity, and economy; more

especially Mr. Brunel, who so highly appreciated the principle of its

construction, that he at once adopted it, and applied it to the hospital

kitchens at Smyrna and Rankioi, which he was there about to fit up.

The Duke made many remarks respecting the simplicity of its construction

and the immense economy of fuel; “the transport of which,” I observed,

“was so extremely difficult and costly.” I also remarked that one stove

might be placed in a tent or hut containing fifty or sixty men; and they

could cook there without the smallest inconvenience or difficulty, while

it would throw out sufficient heat, “being in use nearly all day, viz.,

for breakfast, dinner, and tea,” to warm the hut in winter, while in

summer it might be turned out of doors.

Having been complimented by all present, I was about to retire, when the

Duchess observed that she had written several letters of introduction

for me. “Among the number,” said her Grace, “you will find one for Miss

Nightingale.”

I returned my sincere thanks to all present, and in particular to the

Duke and Duchess. I assured them that the kindness and great

encouragement I had received from them would be for ever engraved in my

memory. The Duke remarked that he was very glad to see me in such high

spirits. I acknowledged this with a bow.

“But, Mr. Soyer, suppose you should be taken ill?” said the Duchess.

“Well, your Grace--_cela est à la volonté de Dieu_--at present I am

happy to say I have not any fears on that head, and am quite resigned to

whatever Providence may dictate. Once more I beg to reiterate my

feelings of gratitude, and bid your Grace and your illustrious family

adieu.”

As it was nearly one o’clock, I called upon Mr. Ramsay, who had all my

letters ready. He did me the honour to introduce me to General Vivian,

of the Turkish Contingent, and his brother, Captain Ramsay, the

general’s aide-de-camp. Anticipating the pleasure of meeting those

gentlemen in the East, I departed with the best wishes of all.

Mr. Ramsay gave me a letter for the Honourable Mrs. Herbert, to whom I

was anxious to pay a visit, well aware of the important information I

could gather from that benevolent lady, who was in constant

communication with the hospitals in the East, and also with Miss

Nightingale. I was very kindly received; but, instead of giving me an

encouraging prospect of success, that lady very candidly informed me

that the number of letters she daily received were most unsatisfactory,

and that she did not think it possible for me to restore order in the

cooking department at the great barrack hospital. “The difficulties you

will encounter,” said she, “are incalculable.”

“So I anticipate,” was my reply; “but I must observe, that I love

difficulties, in order to surmount them. And with the power so

graciously conferred upon me by Lord Panmure, I cannot fail to do some

good, if my health does not fail me.”

“I hope,” said Mrs. Herbert, “you will succeed, and shall be happy to

hear of an amelioration. When do you think of going?”

“To-morrow.” Bidding her adieu, and thanking her for her kind reception,

I retired.

On reaching home, I found the promised letters from Mr. Stafford, all my

luggage packed, and was on the point of starting, when I learned that

the gentleman who was going with me as secretary, and had his passport

ready, declined to accompany me. His relations and friends had persuaded

him not to go, the fever being so bad there, and so many deaths

occurring daily. I was thus placed in an awkward position, and was,

moreover, pestered at home by intrusive visitors, and no end of

ridiculous letters. I thought of starting alone; but, upon reflection, I

decided upon passing the evening at the Adelaide Hotel, at London

Bridge, and in the morning looking out for another party; thus, to my

great annoyance, losing another day. To start alone without a

first-class companion for so long a journey was a sad affair. I must

observe that I had previously engaged two young men, at high wages, as

cooks, one of whom declined going to Scutari, but did not mind the

Crimea; the other fell ill. Thus, my prospects on the eve of my

departure were anything but favourable.

Next morning, while driving along Piccadilly, I met a friend, who, in

congratulating me upon my proposed journey, and wishing me success in my

undertaking, said, “So Mr. L---- is going with you as secretary, is he

not?”

“No, he is not! he has left me in the lurch at the last minute; and, my

dear fellow, I can tell you what, there is a chance for you--it is only

for two or three months--you will be well paid, and all expenses

defrayed.”

“It is very kind of you to make me the offer,” he replied; “but I cannot

leave my business at a minute’s notice. How long could you give me to

prepare?”

“Oh! I am off this evening by the mail.”

“I have no clothes ready for travelling.”

“Never mind that; you can get all you require in Paris, where I shall

remain two days upon business.”

“Indeed! then in two hours I will give you a decided answer.”

At the expiration of that time my friend made his appearance. We drew up

an agreement, got his passport, and started the same evening; but not on

the sly, as I had anticipated. Having forgotten to warn T. G. not to

mention the fact of our intended journey, he had called upon several of

his friends, with some of whom I was acquainted, and to my surprise,

when I reached the station, I found about twenty assembled to bid us

farewell. If I mention this circumstance, it is only to have an

opportunity of publicly thanking those gentlemen for their hearty

farewell, and three cheers--the echo of which still vibrates in my

heart, and was through the whole of my culinary campaign a high source

of gratification to my feelings. That night we slept at the Pavilion

Hotel, Folkestone.

Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War. With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions · 第 3 / 38 章