THE
WHITE HOUSE
COOK BOOK
_COOKING, TOILET AND HOUSEHOLD RECIPES,_
_MENUS, DINNER-GIVING, TABLE ETIQUETTE,_
_CARE OF THE SICK, HEALTH SUGGESTIONS,_
_FACTS WORTH KNOWING, Etc., Etc._
THE WHOLE COMPRISING
A COMPREHENSIVE CYCLOPEDIA OF INFORMATION FOR THE HOME
BY
MRS. F.L. GILLETTE
AND
HUGO ZIEMANN, Steward of the White house
1887
TO THE WIVES OF OUR PRESIDENTS, THOSE NOBLE WOMEN WHO HAVE GRACED THE
WHITE HOUSE, AND WHOSE NAMES AND MEMORIES ARE DEAR TO ALL AMERICANS,
THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR.
PUBLISHERS' PREFACE
In presenting to the public the "WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK," the
publishers believe they can justly claim that it more fully represents
the progress and present perfection of the culinary art than any
previous work. In point of authorship, it stands preëminent. Hugo
Ziemann was at one time caterer for that Prince Napoleon who was
killed while fighting the Zulus in Africa. He was afterwards steward
of the famous Hotel Splendide in Paris. Later he conducted the
celebrated Brunswick Café in New York, and still later he gave to the
Hotel Richelieu, in Chicago, a cuisine which won the applause of even
the gourmets of foreign lands. It was here that he laid the famous
"spread" to which the chiefs of the warring factions of the Republican
Convention sat down in June, 1888, and from which they arose with
asperities softened, differences harmonized and victory organized.
Mrs. F.L. Gillette is no less proficient and capable, having made a
life-long and thorough study of cookery and housekeeping, especially
as adapted to the practical wants of average American homes.
The book has been prepared with great care. Every recipe has been
_tried_ and _tested_, and can be relied upon as one of the _best_ of
its kind. It is comprehensive, filling completely, it is believed, the
requirements of housekeepers of all classes. It embodies several
original and commendable features, among which may be mentioned the
_menus_ for the holidays and for one week in each month in the year,
thus covering all varieties of seasonable foods; the convenient
classification and arrangement of topics; the simplified method of
explanation in preparing an article, in the order of manipulation,
thereby enabling the most inexperienced to clearly comprehend it.
The subject of carving has been given a prominent place, not only
because of its special importance in a work of this kind, but
particularly because it contains entirely new and original designs,
and is so far a departure from the usual mode of treating the subject.
Interesting information is given concerning the _White House_; how its
hospitality is conducted, the menus served on special occasions, views
of the interior, portraits of all the ladies of the White House, etc.
Convenience has been studied in the make-up of the book. The type is
large and plain; it is sewed by patent flexible process, so that when
opened it will not close of itself, and it is bound in enameled cloth,
adapted for use in the kitchen.
THE PUBLISHERS.
CONTENTS.
ARTICLES REQUIRED FOR THE KITCHEN 588
BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 249
BREAD 238
BUTTER AND CHEESE 219
CAKES 282
CANNED FRUITS 438
CARVING 7
CATSUPS 176
COFFEE, TEA AND BEVERAGES 448
COLORING FOR FRUIT, ETC. 444
CONFECTIONERY 446
CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS 344
DINNER GIVING 600
DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS 381
DYEING OR COLORING 591
EGGS AND OMELETS 225
FACTS WORTH KNOWING 566
FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES 287
FISH 49
FOR THE SICK 510
FRENCH WORDS IN COOKING 587
FROSTING OR ICING 284
HEALTH SUGGESTIONS 521
HOUSEKEEPERS' TIME-TABLE 542
ICE-CREAM AND ICES 376
MACARONI 216
MANAGEMENT OF STATE DINNER AT WHITE HOUSE 507
MEASURES AND WEIGHTS IN ORDINARY USE 603
MEATS 107
MENUS 478
MISCELLANEOUS 587
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 543
MODES OF FRYING 48
MUTTON AND LAMB 136
PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS 320
PICKLES 179
PORK 144
POULTRY AND GAME 81
PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 423
SALADS 168
SANDWICHES 236
SAUCES AND DRESSING 156
SAUCES FOR, PUDDING 417
SHELL FISH 67
SMALL POINTS ON TABLE ETIQUETTE 595
SOUPS 27
SOUPS WITHOUT MEATS 41
SPECIAL MENUS 503
TOAST 276
TOILET RECIPES AND ITEMS 577
VARIETIES OF SEASONABLE FOOD 473
VEGETABLES 191
[Illustration: HELEN HERRON TAFT. Copyright, Photo Clinediust,
Washington.]
WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK.
CARVING.
Carving is one important acquisition in the routine of daily living,
and all should try to attain a knowledge or ability to do it well, and
withal gracefully.
When carving use a chair slightly higher than the ordinary size, as it
gives a better purchase on the meat, and appears more graceful than
when standing, as is often quite necessary when carving a turkey, or a
very large joint. More depends on skill than strength. The platter
should be placed opposite, and sufficiently near to give perfect
command of the article to be carved, the knife of medium size, sharp
with a keen edge. Commence by cutting the slices thin, laying them
carefully to one side of the platter, then afterwards placing the
desired amount on each guest's plate, to be served in turn by the
servant.
In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes;
for if these are broken the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver
should acquaint himself with the choicest parts and morsels; and to
give each guest an equal share of those _tidbits_ should be his maxim.
Steel knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish,
as these are liable to impart a _very_ disagreeable flavor. A
fish-trowel of silver or plated silver is the proper article to use.
Gravies should be sent to the table very _hot_, and in helping one to
gravy or melted butter, place it on a vacant side of the plate, not
_pour_ it over their meat, fish or fowl, that they may use only as
much as they like.
When serving fowls, or meats, accompanied with stuffing, the guests
should be asked if they would have a portion, as it is not every one
to whom the flavor of stuffing is agreeable; in filling their plates,
avoid heaping one thing upon another, as it makes a bad appearance.
A word about the care of carving knives: a fine steel knife should
not come in contact with intense heat, because it destroys its temper,
and therefore impairs its cutting qualities. Table carving knives
should not be used in the kitchen, either around the stove, or for
cutting bread, meats, vegetables, etc.; a fine whetstone should be
kept for sharpening, and the knife cleaned carefully to avoid dulling
its edge, all of which is quite essential to successful carving.
* * * * *
[Illustration]
BEEF.
HIND-QUARTER.
No. 1. Used for choice roasts, the porterhouse and sirloin steaks.
No. 2. Rump, used for steaks, stews and corned beef.
No. 3. Aitch-bone, used for boiling-pieces, stews and pot roasts.
No. 4. Buttock or round, used for steaks, pot roasts, beef _á la
mode_; also a prime boiling-piece.
No. 5. Mouse-round, used for boiling and stewing.
No. 6. Shin or leg, used for soups, hashes, etc.
No. 7. Thick flank, cut with under fat, is a prime boiling-piece, good
for stews and corned beef, pressed beef.
No. 8. Veiny piece, used for corned beef, dried beef.
No. 9. Thin flank, used for corned beef and boiling-pieces.
FORE-QUARTER.
No. 10. Five ribs called the fore-rib. This is considered the primest
piece for roasting; also makes the finest steaks.
No. 11. Four ribs, called the middle ribs, used for roasting.
No. 12. Chuck ribs, used for second quality of roasts and steaks.
No. 13. Brisket, used for corned beef, stews, soups and spiced beef.
No. 14. Shoulder-piece, used for stews, soups, pot-roasts, mince-meat
and hashes.
Nos. 15, 16. Neck, clod or sticking-piece used for stocks, gravies,
soups, mince-pie meat, hashes, bologna sausages, etc.
No. 17. Shin or shank, used mostly for soups and stewing.
No. 18. Cheek.
The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according
to the several joints of beef, when cut up.
_First Class_.--Includes the sirloin with the kidney suet (1), the
rump steak piece (2), the fore-rib (11).
_Second Class_.--The buttock or round (4), the thick flank (7), the
middle ribs (11).
_Third Class_.--The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin
flank (8, 9), the chuck (12), the shoulder-piece (14), the brisket
(13).
_Fourth Class_.--The clod, neck and sticking-piece (15, 16).
_Fifth Class_.--Shin or shank (17).
[Illustration]
VEAL.
HIND-QUARTER.
No. 1. Loin, the choicest cuts used for roasts and chops.
No. 2. Fillet, used for roasts and cutlets.
No. 3. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops.
No. 4. The hind-knuckle or hock, used for stews, pot-pies, meat-pies.
FORE-QUARTER.
No. 5. Neck, best end used for roasts, stews and chops.
No. 6. Breast, best end used for roasting, stews and chops.
No. 7. Blade-bone, used for pot-roasts and baked dishes.
No. 8. Fore-knuckle, used for soups and stews.
No. 9. Breast, brisket-end used for baking, stews and pot-pies.
No. 10. Neck, scrag-end used for stews, broth, meat-pies, etc.
In cutting up veal, generally, the hind-quarter is divided into loin
and leg, and the fore-quarter into breast, neck and shoulder.
_The Several Parts of a Moderately-sized, Well-fed Calf_, about eight
weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--Loin and chump, 18
lbs.; fillet, 12-1/2 lbs.; hind-knuckle, 5-1/2 lbs.; shoulder, 11
lbs.; neck, 11 lbs.; breast, 9 lbs., and fore-knuckle, 5 lbs.; making
a total of 144 lbs. weight.
[Illustration]
MUTTON.
No. 1. Leg, used for roasts and for boiling.
No. 2. Shoulder, used for baked dishes and roasts.
No. 3. Loin, best end used for roasts, chops.
No. 4. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops.
No. 5. Rack, or rib chops, used for French chops, rib chops, either
for frying or broiling; also used for choice stews.
No. 6. Breast, used for roast, baked dishes, stews, chops.
No. 7. Neck or scrag-end, used for cutlets, stews and meat-pies.
NOTE.--A saddle of muton or double loin is two loins cut off before
the carcass is split open down the back. French chops are a small rib
chop, the end of the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away
from the thin end, leaving the round piece of meat attached to the
larger end, which leaves the small rib-bone bare. Very tender and
sweet.
Mutton is _prime_ when cut from a carcass which has been fed out of
doors, and allowed to run upon the hillside; they are best when about
three years old. The fat will then be abundant, white and hard, the
flesh juicy and firm, and of a clear red color.
For mutton roasts, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or
haunch. The leg should be boiled. Almost any part will do for broth.
Lamb born in the middle of the winter, reared under shelter, and fed
in a great measure upon milk, then killed in the spring, is considered
a great delicacy, though lamb is good at a year old. Like all young
animals, lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most
unwholesome.
[Illustration]
PORK.
No. 1. Leg, used for smoked hams, roasts and corned pork.
No. 2. Hind-loin, used for roasts, chops and baked dishes.
No. 3. Fore-loin or ribs, used for roasts, baked dishes or chops.
No. 4. Spare-rib, used for roasts, chops, stews.
No. 5. Shoulder, used for smoked shoulder, roasts and corned pork.
No. 6. Brisket and flank, used for pickling in salt and smoked bacon.
The cheek is used for pickling in salt, also the shank or shin. The
feet are usually used for souse and jelly.
For family use the leg is the most economical, that is when fresh, and
the loin the richest. The best pork is from carcasses weighing from
fifty to about one hundred and twenty-five pounds. Pork is a white and
close meat, and it is almost impossible to over-roast or cook it too
much; when underdone it is exceedingly unwholesome.
[Illustration]
VENISON.
No. 1. Shoulder, used for roasting; it may be boned and stuffed, then
afterwards baked or roasted.
No. 2. Fore-loin, used for roasts and steaks.
No. 3. Haunch or loin, used for roasts, steaks, stews. The ribs cut
close may be used for soups. Good for pickling and making into smoked
venison.
No. 4. Breast, used for baking dishes, stewing.
No. 5. Scrag or neck, used for soups.
The choice of venison should be judged by the fat, which, when the
venison is young, should be thick, clear and close, and the meat a
very dark red. The flesh of a female deer about four years old, is the
sweetest and best of venison.
Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is
finer than doe venison, which is in season from October to December.
Neither should be dressed at any other time of year, and no meat
requires so much care as venison in killing, preserving and dressing.
[Illustration:]
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
This choice roasting-piece should be cut with one good firm stroke
from end to end of the joint, at the upper part, in thin, long, even
slices in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, cutting across the
grain, serving each guest with some of the fat with the lean; this may
be done by cutting a small, thin slice from underneath the bone from 5
to 6, through the tenderloin.
Another way of carving this piece, and which will be of great
assistance in doing it well, is to insert the knife just above the
bone at the bottom, and run sharply along, dividing the meat from the
bone at the bottom and end, thus leaving it perfectly flat; then carve
in long, thin slices the usual way. When the bone has been removed and
the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon the platter on
one end, and an even, thin slice is carved across the grain of the
upper surface.
Roast ribs should be carved in thin, even slices from the thick end
towards the thin in the same manner as the sirloin; this can be more
easily and cleanly done if the carving knife is first run along
between the meat and the end and rib-bones, thus leaving it free from
bone to be cut into slices.
_Tongue_.--To carve this it should be cut crosswise, the middle being
the best; cut in very _thin_ slices, thereby improving its delicacy,
making it more tempting; as is the case of all well-carved meats. The
root of the tongue is usually left on the platter.
[Illustration]
BREAST OF VEAL.
This piece is quite similar to a fore-quarter of lamb after the
shoulder has been taken off. A breast of veal consists of two parts,
the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. These parts may be separated by
sharply passing the carving knife in the direction of the line from 1
to 2; and when they are entirely divided, the rib-bones should be
carved in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and the brisket can
be helped by cutting slices from 3 to 4.
The carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for
the brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the
dish, as is frequently with this roast of veal, each person should
receive a piece.
Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition than beef and mutton, in
proportion to their weight, they are often preferred to these latter
meats on account of their delicacy of texture and flavor. A whole
breast of veal weighs from nine to twelve pounds.
[Illustration]
A FILLET OF VEAL.
A fillet of veal is one of the prime roasts of veal; it is taken from
the leg above the knuckle; a piece weighing from ten to twelve pounds
is a good size and requires about four hours for roasting. Before
roasting, it is dressed with a force meat or stuffing placed in the
cavity from where the bone was taken out and the flap tightly secured
together with skewers; many bind it together with tape.
To carve it, cut in even thin slices off from the whole of the upper
part or top, in the same manner as from a rolled roast of beef, as in
the direction of the figs. 1 and 2; this gives the person served some
of the dressing with each slice of meat.
Veal is very unwholesome unless it is cooked thoroughly, and when
roasted should be of a rich brown color. Bacon, fried pork,
sausage-balls, with greens, are among the accompaniments of roasted
veal, also a cut lemon.
[Illustration]
NECK OF VEAL.
The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good roasting-piece; it,
however, is composed of bone and ribs that make it quite difficult to
carve, unless it is done properly. To attempt to carve each chop and
serve it, you would not only place _too_ large a piece upon the plate
of the person you intend to serve, but you would waste much time, and
should the vertebræ have not been removed by the butcher, you would be
compelled to exercise such a degree of strength that would make one's
appearance very ungraceful, and possibly, too, throwing gravy over
your neighbor sitting next to you. The correct way to carve this roast
is to cut diagonally from fig. 1 to 2, and help in slices of moderate
thickness; then it may be cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the
small bones; divide and serve them, having first inquired if they are
desired.
This joint is usually sent to the table accompanied by bacon, ham,
tongue, or pickled pork, on a separate dish and with a cut lemon on a
plate. There are also a number of sauces that are suitable with this
roast.
[Illustration]
LEG OF MUTTON.
The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is obtained is
that of sheep from three to six years old, and which have been fed on
dry, sweet pastures; then mutton is in its _prime_, the flesh being
firm, juicy, dark colored and full of the richest gravy. When mutton
is two years old, the meat is flabby, pale and savorless.
In carving a roasted leg, the best slices are found by cutting quite
down to the bone, in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be
taken from either side.
Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, and the
fat on this ridge is very much liked by many. The cramp-bone is a
delicacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and
running the knife under it in a semicircular direction to 3. The
nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, but the under side contains the
most finely grained meat, from which slices may be cut lengthwise.
When sent to the table a frill of paper around the knuckle will
improve its appearance.
[Illustration]
FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
The first cut to be made in carving a fore-quarter of lamb is to
separate the shoulder from the breast and ribs; this is done by
passing a sharp carving knife lightly around the dotted line as shown
by the figs. 3, 4 and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by
raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should
be firmly fixed, it will easily separate with just a little more
cutting with the knife; care should be taken not to cut away too much
of the meat from the breast when dividing the shoulder from it, as
that would mar its appearance. The shoulder may be placed upon a
separate dish for convenience. The next process is to divide the ribs
from the brisket by cutting through the meat in the line from 1 to 2;
then the ribs may be carved in the direction of the line 6 to 7, and
the brisket from 8 to 9. The carver should always ascertain whether
the guest prefers ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder.
[Illustration]
HAM.
The carver in cutting a ham must be guided according as he desires to
practice economy, or have at once fine slices out of the prime part.
Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and
cut off thin slices toward the thick and upper part of the ham.
To reach the choicer portion of the ham, the knife, which must be very
sharp and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone through the
thick fat in the direction of the line from 1 to 2. The slices should
be even and thin, cutting both lean and fat together, always cutting
down to the bone. Some cut a circular hole in the middle of a ham
gradually enlarging it outwardly. Then again many carve a ham by first
cutting from 1 to 2, then across the other way from 3 to 4. Remove the
skin after the ham is cooked and send to the table with dots of dry
pepper or dry mustard on the top, a tuft of fringed paper twisted
about the knuckle, and plenty of fresh parsley around the dish. This
will always insure an inviting appearance.
_Roast Pig_.--The modern way of serving a pig is not to send it to the
table whole, but have it carved partially by the cook; first, by
dividing the shoulder from the body; then the leg in the same manner;
also separating the ribs into convenient portions. The head may be
divided and placed on the same platter. To be served as hot as
possible.
A Spare Rib of Pork is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy part,
after which the bones should be disjointed and separated.
A leg of pork may be carved in the same manner as a ham.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON]
HAUNCH OF VENISON
A haunch of venison is the _prime_ joint, and is carved very similar
to almost any roasted or boiled leg; it should be first cut crosswise
down to the bone following the line from 1 to 2; then turn the platter
with the knuckle farthest from you, put in the point of the knife, and
cut down as far as you can, in the directions shown by the dotted
lines from 3 to 4; then there can be taken out as many slices as is
required on the right and left of this. Slices of venison should be
cut thin, and gravy given with them, but as there is a special sauce
made with red wine and currant jelly to accompany this meat, do not
serve gravy before asking the guest if he pleases to have any.
The fat of this meat is like mutton, apt to cool soon, and become hard
and disagreeable to the palate; it should, therefore, be served always
on warm plates, and the platter kept over a hot-water dish, or spirit
lamp. Many cooks dish it up with a white paper frill pinned around the
knuckle bone.
A haunch of mutton is carved the same as a haunch of venison.
[Illustration]
TURKEY.
A turkey having been relieved from strings and skewers used in
trussing should be placed on the table with the head or neck at the
carver's right hand. An expert carver places the fork in the turkey,
and does not remove it until the whole is divided. First insert the
fork firmly in the lower part of the breast, just forward of fig. 2,
then sever the legs and wings on both sides, if the whole is to be
carved, cutting neatly through the joint next to the body, letting
these parts lie on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast
from 2 to 3, as many even slices of the white meat as may be desired,
placing the pieces neatly on one side of the platter. Now unjoint the
legs and wings at the middle joint, which can be done very skillfully
by a little practice. Make an opening into the cavity of the turkey
for dipping out the inside dressing, by cutting a piece from the rear
part 1, 1, called the apron. Consult the tastes of the guests as to
which part is preferred; if no choice is expressed, serve a portion of
both light and dark meat. One of the most delicate parts of the turkey
are two little muscles, lying in small dish-like cavities on each side
of the back, a little behind the leg attachments; the next most
delicate meat fills the cavities in the neck bone, and next to this,
that on the second joints. The lower part of the leg (or drumstick, as
it is called) being hard, tough and stringy, is rarely ever helped to
any one, but allowed to remain on the dish.
[Illustration]
ROAST GOOSE.
To carve a goose, first begin by separating the leg from the body, by
putting the fork into the small end of the limb, pressing it closely
to the body, then passing the knife under at 2, and turning the leg
back as you cut through the joint. To take off the wing, insert the
fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body;
put the knife in at fig. 1, and divide the joint. When the legs and
wings are off, the breast may be carved in long, even slices, as
represented in the lines from 1 to 2. The back and lower side bones,
as well as the two lower side bones by the wing, may be cut off; but
the best pieces of the goose are the breast and thighs, after being
separated from the drumsticks. Serve a little of the dressing from the
inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at fig. 3. A goose
should never be over a year old; a tough goose is very difficult to
carve, and certainly most difficult to eat.
FOWLS.
First insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the
bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and if the fowl is tender
the joint will give away easily. The wing is broken off the same way,
only dividing the joint with the knife, in the direction from 1 to 2.
The four quarters having been removed in this way, take off the
merry-thought and the neck-bones; these last are to be removed by
putting the knife in at figs. 3 and 4, pressing it hard, when they
will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. To separate
the breast from the body of the fowl, cut through the tender ribs
close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Now turn the fowl over,
back upwards; put the knife into the bone midway between the neck and
the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn
now the rump from you, and take off very neatly the two side bones,
and the fowl is carved. In separating the thigh from the drumstick,
the knife must be inserted exactly at the joint, for if not accurately
hit, some difficulty will be experienced to get them apart; this is
easily acquired by practice. There is no difference in carving roast
and boiled fowls if full grown; but in very young fowls the breast is
usually served whole; the wings and breast are considered the best
parts, but in young ones the legs are the most juicy. In the case of a
capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off at the breast, the same as
carving a pheasant.
[Illustration]
ROAST DUCK.
A young duckling may be carved in the same manner as a fowl, the legs
and wings being taken off first on either side. When the duck is full
size, carve it like a goose; first cutting it in slices from the
breast, beginning close to the wing and proceeding upward towards the
breast bone, as is represented by the lines 1 to 2. An opening may be
made by cutting out a circular slice, as shown by the dotted lines at
number 3.
Some are fond of the feet, and when dressing the duck, these should be
neatly skinned and never removed. Wild duck is highly esteemed by
epicures; it is trussed like a tame duck, and carved in the same
manner, the breast being the choicest part.
PARTRIDGES.
Partridges are generally cleaned and trussed the same way as a
pheasant, but the custom of cooking them with the heads on is going
into disuse somewhat. The usual way of carving them is similar to a
pigeon, dividing it into two equal parts. Another method is to cut it
into three pieces, by severing a wing and leg on either side from the
body, by following the lines 1 to 2, thus making two servings of those
parts, leaving the breast for a third plate. The third method is to
thrust back the body from the legs, and cut through the middle of the
breast, thus making four portions that may be served. Grouse and
prairie-chicken are carved from the breast when they are large, and
quartered or halved when of medium size.
[Illustration]
PHEASANT.
Place your fork firmly in the centre of the breast of this large game
bird and cut deep slices to the bone at figs. 1 and 2; then take off
the leg in the line from 3 and 4, and the wing 3 and 5, severing both
sides the same. In taking off the wings, be careful not to cut too
near the neck; if you do you will hit upon the neck-bone, from which
the wing must be separated. Pass the knife through the line 6, and
under the merry-thought towards the neck, which will detach it. Cut
the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings and merry-thought of a
pheasant are the most highly prized, although the legs are considered
very finely flavored. Pheasants are frequently roasted with the head
left on; in that case, when dressing them, bring the head round under
the wing, and fix it on the point of a skewer.
PIGEONS.
A very good way of carving these birds is to insert the knife at fig.
1, and cut both ways to 2 and 3, when each portion may be divided into
two pieces, then served. Pigeons, if not too large, may be cut in
halves, either across or down the middle, cutting them into two equal
parts; if young and small they may be served entirely whole.
Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as possible after they are
killed, as they very quickly lose their flavor. Wild pigeons, on the
contrary, should hang a day or two in a cool place before they are
dressed. Oranges cut into halves are used as a garnish for dishes of
small birds, such as pigeons, quail, woodcock, squabs, snipe, etc.
These small birds are either served whole or split down the back,
making two servings.
[Illustration]
MACKEREL.
The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fish, being known by its
silvery whiteness. It sometimes attains to the length of twenty
inches, but usually, when fully grown, is about fourteen or sixteen
inches long, and about two pounds in weight. To carve a baked
mackerel, first remove the head and tail by cutting downward at 1 and
2; then split them down the back, so as to serve each person a part of
each side piece. The roe should be divided in small pieces and served
with each piece of fish. Other whole fish may be carved in the same
manner. The fish is laid upon a little sauce or folded napkin, on a
hot dish, and garnished with parsley.
BOILED SALMON.
This fish is seldom sent to the table whole, being _too_ large for any
ordinary sized family; the middle cut is considered the choicest to
boil. To carve it, first run the knife down and along the upper side
of the fish from 1 to 2, then again on the lower side from 3 to 4.
Serve the thick part, cutting it lengthwise in slices in the direction
of the line from 1 to 2, and the thin part breadthwise, or in the
direction from 5 to 6. A slice of the thick with one of the thin,
where lies the fat, should be served to each guest. Care should be
taken when carving not to break the flakes of the fish, as that
impairs its appearance. The flesh of the salmon is rich and delicious
in flavor. Salmon is in season from the first of February to the end
of August.
SOUPS.
Consommé, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all
principal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these
culinary operations to know the most complete and economical method of
extracting from a certain quantity of meat the best possible stock or
broth. Fresh, uncooked beef makes the best stock, with the addition of
cracked bones, as the glutinous matter contained in them renders it
important that they should be boiled with the meat, which adds to the
strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of an earthy
substance--to which they owe their solidity--of gelatine, and a fatty
fluid, something like marrow. _Two ounces_ of them contain as much
gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but, in them, this is so encased in
the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface
of the whole bones, but by breaking them they can be dissolved more.
When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to
become a jelly. The flesh of old animals contains more flavor than the
flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more flavor than white.
Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although
quite glutinous, furnishes very little nutriment.
Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little
nourishment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup,
but for stock to keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted
meats. Those contain higher fragrant properties; so by putting the
remains of roast meats in the stock-pot you obtain a better flavor.
The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking-piece," as
the butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to
extract, makes a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other
part of the animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in
_cold_ water, in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for
several hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out
thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from
becoming turbid, never allowed to _boil fast_ at any time, and if more
water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or
lukewarm water spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is
tender (as that hardens and toughens the meat), especially if the meat
is to be eaten. Take off every particle of scum as it rises, and
before the vegetables are put in.
Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If
for clear soups, strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean
towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough
to hold the stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made
entirely from cooked meats, but in a family where it requires a large
joint roasted every day, the bones, and bits and underdone pieces of
beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left
from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting
a rich dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as
above, to furnish a family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose;
still, with the addition of a little fresh meat it would be more
nutritious. In cold weather you can gather them up for several days
and put them to cook in cold water, and when done, strain, and put
aside until needed.
Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the
boiling point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be
turned into a dish or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never
cover it up, as that will cause it to turn sour very quickly.
Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this
be melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.
Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin
soups or broth.
Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown
burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.
Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or
the green leaves of celery put in soup, will serve instead of spinach.
Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth,
and wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color
green five minutes before taking it up.
Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color.
Okras gives a green color to soup.
To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and
put them into the soup with the other vegetables--or take the juice
only, as directed for spinach.
For white soups, which are of veal, lamb or chicken, none but white
vegetables are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni, for
thickening.
Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup; it must be put in as
soon as the soup is free from scum.
Hotel and private-house stock is quite different.
Hotels use meat in such large quantities that there is always more or
less trimmings and bones of meat to add to fresh meats; that makes
very strong stock, which they use in most all soups and gravies and
other made dishes.
The meat from which soup has been made is good to serve cold thus:
Take out all the bones, season with pepper and salt, and catsup, if
liked, then chop it small, tie it in a cloth, and lay it between two
plates, with a weight on the upper one; slice it thin for luncheon or
supper; or make sandwiches of it; or make a hash for breakfast; or
make it into balls, with the addition of a little wheat flour and an
egg, and serve them fried in fat, or boil in the soup.
An agreeable flavor is sometimes imparted to soup by sticking some
cloves into the meat used for making stock; a few slices of onions
fried very brown in butter are nice; also flour browned by simply
putting it into a saucepan over the fire and stirring it constantly
until it is a dark brown.
Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about
the consistency of cream. When soups and gravies are kept from day to
day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into
fresh-scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In
temperate weather, every other day may be sufficient.
HERBS AND VEGETABLES USED IN SOUPS.
Of vegetables the principal ones are carrots, tomatoes, asparagus,
green peas, okra, macaroni, green corn, beans, rice, vermicelli,
Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, mushroom, or mushroom
catsup, parsnips, beetroot, turnips, leeks, garlic, shallots and
onions; sliced onions fried with butter and flour until they are
browned, then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the
color and flavor of brown sauces and soups. The herbs usually used in
soups are parsley, common thyme, summer savory, knotted marjoram, and
other seasonings, such as bay-leaves, tarragon, allspice, cinnamon,
nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and white pepper, red pepper, lemon peel
and juice, orange peel and juice. The latter imparts a finer flavor
and the acid much milder. These materials, with wine, and the various
catsups, combined in various proportions, are, with other ingredients,
made into almost an endless variety of excellent soups and gravies.
Soups that are intended for the principal part of a meal certainly
ought not to be flavored like sauces, which are only intended to give
relish to some particular dish.
STOCK.
Six pounds of shin of beef, or six pounds of knuckle of veal; any
bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat; one-quarter pound of lean
bacon or ham, two ounces of butter, two large onions, each stuck with
cloves; one turnip, three carrots, one head of celery, two ounces of
salt, one-half teaspoonful of whole pepper, one large blade of mace,
one bunch of savory herbs except sage, four quarts and one-half-pint
of cold water.
Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about three inches
square; break the bones into small pieces, rub the butter on the
bottom of the stewpan; put in one-half a pint of water, the broken
bones, then meat and all other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and
place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When the
bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance,
add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for five or
six hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. When
nearly cooked, throw in a tablespoonful of salt to assist the scum to
rise. Remove every particle of scum whilst it is doing, and strain it
through a fine hair sieve; when cool remove all grease. This stock
will keep for many days in cold weather.
Stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and this
will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. Keep it in
small jars, in a cool place. It makes a good gravy for hash meats;
one tablespoonful of it is sufficient to impart a fine flavor to a
dish of macaroni and various other dishes. Good soups of various kinds
are made from it at short notice; slice off a portion of the jelly,
add water, and whatever vegetables and thickening preferred. It is
best to partly cook the vegetables before adding to the stock, as much
boiling injures the flavoring of the soup. Season and boil a few
moments and serve hot.
[Illustration: FRANCES FOLSOM CLEVELAND.]
WHITE STOCK.
White stock is used in the preparation of white soups, and is made by
boiling six pounds of a knuckle of veal, cut up in small pieces,
poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham. Proceed according to
directions given in STOCK, on opposite page.
TO CLARIFY STOCK.
Place the stock in a clean saucepan, set it over a brisk fire. When
boiling, add the white of one egg to each quart of stock, proceeding
as follows: beat the whites of the eggs up well in a little water;
then add a little hot stock; beat to a froth and pour gradually into
the pot; then beat the whole hard and long; allow it to boil up once,
and immediately remove and strain through a thin flannel cloth.
BEEF SOUP.
Select a small shin of beef of moderate size, crack the bone in small
pieces, wash and place it in a kettle to boil, with five or six quarts
of _cold_ water. Let it boil about two hours, or until it begins to
get tender, then season it with a tablespoonful of salt, and a
teaspoonful of pepper; boil it one hour longer, then add to it one
carrot, two turnips, two tablespoonfuls of rice or pearl barley, one
head of celery, and a teaspoonful of summer savory powdered fine; the
vegetables to be minced up in small pieces like dice. After these
ingredients have boiled a quarter of an hour, put in two potatoes cut
up in small pieces, let it boil half an hour longer; take the meat
from the soup, and if intended to be served with it, take out the
bones and lay it closely and neatly on a dish, and garnish with sprigs
of parsley.
Serve made mustard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and
eaten cold with mustard and vinegar, or catsup. Four hours are
required for making this soup. Should any remain over the first day,
it may be heated, with the addition of a little boiling water, and
served again. Some fancy a glass of brown sherry added just before
being served. Serve very hot.
VEAL SOUP. (Excellent.)
Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts of cold water, with a small
quantity of salt, and one small tablespoonful of uncooked rice. Boil
slowly, hardly above simmering, four hours, when the liquor should be
reduced to half the usual quantity; remove from the fire. Into the
tureen put the yolk of one egg, and stir well into it a teacupful of
cream, or, in hot weather, new milk; add a piece of butter the size of
a hickory nut; on this strain the soup, boiling hot, stirring all the
time. Just at the last, beat it well for a minute.
SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH.
Six pounds neck of mutton, three quarts water, five carrots, five
turnips, two onions, four tablespoonfuls barley, a little salt. Soak
mutton in water for an hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stewpan with
three quarts of water. As soon as it boils, skim well, and then simmer
for one and one-half hours. Cut best end of mutton into cutlets,
dividing it with two bones in each; take off nearly all fat before you
put it into broth; skim the moment the meat boils, and every ten
minutes afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into two
or three pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly
done; stir in barley; add salt to taste; let all stew together for
three and one-half hours; about one-half hour before sending it to
table, put in little chopped parsley and serve.
Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in
the tureen with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be
served on a separate dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round
it. Many persons are fond of mutton that has been boiled in soup.
You may thicken the soup with rice or barley that has first been
soaked in cold water, or with green peas, or with young corn, cut down
from the cob, or with tomatoes, scalded, peeled and cut into pieces.
GAME SOUP.
Two grouse or partridges, or, if you have neither, use a pair of
rabbits; half a pound of lean ham; two medium-sized onions; one pound
of lean beef; fried bread; butter for frying; pepper, salt and two
stalks of white celery cut into inch lengths; three quarts of water.
Joint your game neatly; cut the ham and onions into small pieces, fry
all in butter to a light brown. Put into a soup-pot with the beef, cut
into strips, add a little pepper. Pour on the water; heat slowly, and
stew gently two hours. Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a
bowl; cook the soup an hour longer; strain; cool; drop in the celery
and simmer ten minutes. Pour upon fried bread in the tureen.
Venison soup made the same, with the addition of a tablespoonful of
brown flour wet into a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful
of catsup, Worcestershire, or other pungent sauce, and a glass of
Madeira or brown sherry.
CONSOMME SOUP.
Take good strong stock (see pages 27 and 30), remove all fat from the
surface, and for each quart of the stock allow the white and shell of
one egg and a tablespoonful of water, well whipped together. Pour this
mixture into a saucepan containing the stock; place it over the fire
and heat the contents gradually, stirring often to prevent the egg
from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Allow it to boil gently
until the stock looks perfectly clear under the egg, which will rise
and float upon the surface in the form of a thick white scum. Now
remove it and pour it into a folded towel laid in a colander set over
an earthen bowl, allowing it to run through without moving or
squeezing it. Season with more salt if needed, and quickly serve very
hot. This should be a clear amber color.
JULIENNE SOUP.
Cut carrots and turnips into quarter-inch pieces the shape of dice;
also celery into thin slices. Cover them with boiling water; add a
teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful pepper, and cook until soft.
In another saucepan have two quarts of boiling stock (see pages 27 and
30), to which add the cooked vegetables, the water and more seasoning
if necessary. Serve hot.
In the spring and summer season use asparagus, peas and string
beans--all cut into small uniform thickness.
CREAM OF SPINACH.
Pick, wash and boil enough spinach to measure a pint, when cooked,
chopped and pounded into a soft paste. Put it into a stewpan with four
ounces of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt.
Cook and stir it about ten minutes. Add to this two quarts of strong
stock (see pages 27 and 30); let boil up, then rub it through a
strainer. Set it over the fire again, and, when on the point of
boiling, mix with it a tablespoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of
granulated sugar.
CHICKEN CREAM SOUP.
An old chicken for soup is much the best. Cut it up into quarters, put
it into a soup kettle with half a pound of corned ham, and an onion;
add four quarts of cold water. Bring slowly to a gentle boil, and keep
this up until the liquid has diminished one-third, and the meat drops
from the bones; then add half a cup of rice. Season with salt, pepper
and a bunch of chopped parsley.
Cook slowly until the rice is tender, then the meat should be taken
out. Now stir in two cups of rich milk thickened with a little flour.
The chicken could be fried in a spoonful of butter and a gravy made,
reserving some of the white part of the meat, chopping it and adding
it to the soup.
PLAIN ECONOMICAL SOUP.
Take a cold roast-beef bone, pieces of beefsteak, the rack of a cold
turkey or chicken. Put them into a pot with three or four quarts of
water, two carrots, three turnips, one onion, a few cloves, pepper and
salt. Boil the whole gently four hours; then strain it through a
colander, mashing the vegetables so that they will all pass through.
Skim off the fat, and return the soup to the pot. Mix one
tablespoonful of flour with two of water, stir it into the soup and
boil the whole ten minutes. Serve this soup with sippits of toast.
Sippits are bits of dry toast cut into a triangular form.
A seasonable dish about the holidays.
[Illustration: EDITH CAROW ROOSEVELT.]
OX-TAIL SOUP.
Two ox-tails, two slices of ham, one ounce of butter, two carrots, two
turnips, three onions, one leek, one head of celery, one bunch of
savory herbs, pepper, a tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of
catsup, one-half glass of port wine, three quarts of water.
Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and put
them in a stewpan with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices and
add them with the herbs. Put in one-half pint of water, and stir it
over a quick fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the stewpan with
water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and simmer very
gently for four hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them out,
skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavor with the
catsup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for five minutes and
serve.
Another way to make an appetizing ox-tail soup. You should begin to
make it the day before you wish to eat the soup. Take two tails, wash
clean, and put in a kettle with nearly a gallon of cold water; add a
small handful of salt; when the meat is well cooked, take out the
bones. Let this stand in a cool room, covered, and next day, about an
hour and a half before dinner, skim off the crust or cake of fat which
has risen to the top. Add a little onion, carrot, or any vegetables
you choose, chopping them fine first; summer savory may also be added.
CORN SOUP.