West of the Great Lakes, and turning sharply northward so as to run

nearly northwest, the eastern border of the buffalo’s range west of

the Mississippi was a line running very near the western extremity of

Lake Superior, up through the Lake of the Woods, west of Lake Winnipeg,

and thence northward to and beyond the Great Slave Lake. There this

border line turned to the west, and then sharply to the south, and

meeting the Rocky Mountains not far from where Peace River leaves

them, followed the range south, about to the 49th parallel; and then

turning southwestwardly and including Idaho, a part of eastern Oregon,

the northeast corner of Nevada, the greater portion of Utah, and most

of New Mexico, the line passed down south well into Mexico, turning

eastwardly just north of the 25th parallel of latitude, and running

north to the coast, which it followed around again to the mouth of the

Mississippi.

As it has been known in our day, the buffalo in the southern portion

of its range was a trans-Missouri animal. North of the parallel of 45

degrees it was found in equal numbers on both sides of the Missouri

River, and in its northern extension reached, and possibly even to-day

reaches, north to Great Slave Lake; for, as already stated, the only

considerable band of wild buffalo to-day is the wood bison of the

north, estimated to number four hundred or five hundred.

Besides the boundaries thus set forth, it is probable that in early

days there was a considerable extension of the buffalo’s range

northward and westward, into portions of what is now Alaska. Certain

it is that in that territory buffalo remains have been found in great

numbers. Some of these skulls belong to species long extinct, and much

larger than the American bison; but, on the other hand, there are many

which are closely similar to that species.

The range of the buffalo to the west of the Rocky Mountains began to

contract not very long after the narrowing of its range on the east.

The earlier explorers in the West, from Pike downward, report buffalo

in abundance. Yet, as already stated, the westernmost point at which

their remains have been found is among the foot-hills of the eastern

side of the Blue Mountains of Oregon. In 1836, it is reported, buffalo

were abundant in Salt Lake Valley, but there nearly all were soon

afterward destroyed by deep snows, which covered the ground for a long

period of time. This corresponds well with statements made to me by

John Robinson, better known in early days as Uncle Jack Robinson, one

of the old-time trappers, who died between 1870 and 1880. In 1870 he

told me that the buffalo on the tributaries of the Green River and on

the Laramie Plains had all perished nearly forty years before, during

a winter when very deep snows fell, followed by a thaw and subsequent

cold, which crusted the snow so that the buffalo could not get through

it, and starved to death. This statement was confirmed by the small

number of remains, most of them extremely old and weathered, which

we found in this region at that time. On the other hand, on upper

tributaries of the Green River buffalo were found much later, and it

is possible that these may have been animals which wintered in narrow

valleys of the mountains, where, during this deep snow, food was

accessible. Fremont states that in the spring of 1824 buffalo were

abundant as far west as Fort Hall, while Bonneville reported them in

extraordinary abundance in the Bear River Valley.

The mere fact that buffalo were not seen by an explorer who passed

through any given territory does not necessarily show that they did

not range in that country. I have travelled for months through a

buffalo range without seeing buffalo or any evidence of their very

recent presence, yet the signs found showed conclusively that a short

time before they had been there in vast numbers. It would have been

perfectly possible for two honest reports, made a few months or years

apart by explorers who were not prairie men, absolutely to contradict

each other.

Although the buffalo disappeared from the country west of the Green

River, and even from the Laramie Plains, a long time ago, it lingered

much later on tributaries of the Platte River further to the northward.

There were buffalo on the Sweetwater and its tributaries between 1870

and 1880, and on certain other tributaries of the North Platte River

between 1880 and 1890. About this same time there was a small band

ranging in what is called the Red Desert Country, south of what is now

the National Park. But the last of these disappeared about 1890.

The color of the buffalo is well understood to be a dark liver brown

over most of the body, changing to black on the long hair of the fore

legs, muzzle, and beard. The long hair on the hump is yellowish, faded

from sunburn, and often much the color of the hair of a “tow-headed

child.” The mountain bison, which lives largely in the timber, and is

scarcely or not at all exposed to the sun, is much darker, sometimes

almost black, throughout.

Very rarely buffalo of unusual color were seen. These were sometimes

roan, sometimes gray or spotted with white, or even pure white

throughout. A hide taken on the upper Missouri about 1879 was white on

the head, legs, and belly, and elsewhere of normal color; the result

was that when the animal was skinned and the hide tanned there was a

fine robe of the ordinary color bordered with a wide band of white. If

I recollect aright, this particular hide was sold on the river to an

Englishman for $500.

Buffalo of unusual color, being so seldom seen, were regarded by the

Indians with great reverence. Among the plains tribes, the buffalo,

on which they depended for food, shelter, and clothing, was sacred.

Its skull was usually placed on the ground near the sweat lodge,

prayers were made, and the pipe was offered to it, in a petition to

the buffalo to remain with them, to be abundant, and even to run over

smooth ground, so that their horses should not fall during the chase.

If buffalo in general were sacred, how much more should the white one

receive reverence. The Pawnees cherished their skins as sacred objects,

and kept them in their medicine bundles, or used them to wrap about

these bundles. The Blackfeet regarded white buffalo as especially

dedicated to the Sun, and hung up the white robe as a votive offering

to that deity. In the same way, the Cheyennes, in old times, sacrificed

the hide of a white buffalo to the Sun, although later, after their

habits had been measurably changed by contact with the whites, they

sometimes sold such robes.

My friend George Bent--son of Col. William Bent, one of the historic

characters of the early West--tells me that during a long course of

trading among the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, he has seen but five robes

that could fairly be called white. One of these was silver-gray,

another, white, a third, cream color, the fourth, dapple gray, and the

fifth, yellowish fawn color. He tells me that in ancient times the

white buffalo was regarded by the Cheyennes as sacred, and that, if

one of them killed a white buffalo, he left it where it fell, taking

nothing from it, and not even putting a knife into it. The Cheyennes

believe that any white buffalo belongs far to the north, and comes from

that region where, according to their tradition, the buffalo originally

came out of the ground.

A great many years ago a war party of Cheyennes went up north against

the Crows. One day they came to a hill, and when they looked over it

they saw before them great herds of buffalo lying down, and among them

a cow, perfectly white. When the buffalo stood up to go to water, the

white cow also stood up, and went with them, and it was observed that

none of the other buffalo went very close to her. They did not appear

to fear her, but they did not crowd close about her; they gave her

plenty of room, as if they respected her. This led the Cheyennes to

think that the white buffalo was a chief among other buffalo.

The women of the Cheyennes did not dress a white buffalo’s hide. When

occasion arose for such work, it was commonly done by some captive

woman; for example, a Kiowa, or a Pawnee,--some one who was not bound

by Cheyenne customs and Cheyenne fears. Rarely, a Cheyenne woman went

through a certain ceremony, being prayed over by a medicine-man, and

painted in a peculiar fashion; this ceremony removed the tabu, and she

might then dress the white robe.

The habits of the buffalo were in most respects those of domestic

cattle. They fed in loose herds as cattle do, the members of a

family--that is to say, the old cow and her progeny, sometimes up to

three or four years old--keeping together; the old bulls, lazier,

heavier, and less active than the cows and the younger stock, were

usually on the outskirts of the herd, and if it was slowly moving

in any direction, were likely to be behind. Much has been written

concerning the intelligence of the buffalo, and the manner in which

the bulls stood sentry over the herd, constantly on the watch for

danger. There is not and never was any foundation for these stories,

which were mere creations of the writer’s imagination. As a matter of

fact, the cows were much more alert and watchful than the bulls, were

always the first to detect danger and to move away from it, while the

bulls were dull and slow, and often did not start to run until the herd

at large was in full flight. Moreover, the cows and younger animals of

the herd were much swifter than the bulls, and so pressed constantly

to the front, while the bulls brought up the rear. The disposition

of the males had nothing to do with any desire to protect the herd,

but resulted from the fact that they were slower than the others. The

earlier writers on the habits of these and other animals, credited

them with human motives and aspirations, which of course they do not

possess. A somewhat similar fashion of writing about animals is current

at the present day, but is false and unnatural, and will pass.

The hides of the buffalo are in their best condition in the early part

of the winter, and it was the practice of the Indians to collect their

robes at that time of the year,--namely, between November and January.

Soon after January, however, the hair begins to grow loose, and it is

shed during the spring and early summer, though often great patches

cling to the body until late summer or early fall. I have seen buffalo

in the month of July still clad in what looked like a loose robe, the

old hair hanging together in an almost complete mat, covering the body.

Usually, however, by rubbing against trees, rocks, and banks of dirt,

and by rolling on the prairie, the loose hair is got rid of by early

summer. In very old animals the moult takes place later and less easily

than in those in good condition, and sometimes old and lean buffalo do

not seem to shed their coats completely.

The rutting season begins in July and lasts about two months. During

this time frequent battles take place among the bulls, apparently

fierce on account of the size and activity of the combatants, but

usually without important results. These fights are much like similar

contests between domestic bulls; they paw up the ground, kneel down and

thrust their horns into the earth, mutter and bellow and grunt; but

although they charge on each other with fury, and come together with a

tremendous shock, the contest usually ends in nothing more important

than the driving off, for a time, of the weaker bull. From their great

activity at this season, the bulls rapidly lose flesh; but after the

rut is over, they regain it, so that by the beginning of the cold

weather they, like the cows, are fat and in good order.

The buffalo cow produces, usually, a single calf, which may be born

during the months of March, April, May, or June. The usual time for the

calves to be born is in April and May. Shortly before that time the

mother separates herself from the herd, which, however, she rejoins not

long after the birth of the calf. Like many other ruminants, the mother

hides her calf when it is small and weak, but does not wander far from

it. After it has gained some strength it joins other calves, and these

usually keep together a little apart from the main herd, their mothers

coming to them from time to time in order that they may nurse.

When first born, the calves are reddish yellow in color, do not possess

any noticeable hump, and look very much like ordinary domestic calves,

except that possibly the tail is slightly shorter. Before very long,

however, they commence to grow darker in color, and I have seen calves

in August that at a little distance seemed almost as dark as the adult

buffalo.

The cow is devoted to her calf, and is ready to fight for it against

any enemy except man. Usually, in the buffalo chase, the cow,

thoroughly frightened, paid no attention to the calf. But, on the other

hand, cases have occurred, where men have been capturing calves to

rear in captivity, in which the cow refused to desert her offspring,

but turned upon the captor of the calf and charged him with the utmost

boldness.

Colonel Dodge instances a case where a number of bulls devoted

themselves to protecting a calf against wolves. He says, “I have seen

evidence of this many times, but the most remarkable instance I ever

heard of was related to me by an army surgeon who was an eye-witness.

He was one evening returning to camp after a day’s hunt, when his

attention was attracted by the curious actions of a little knot of

six or eight buffalo. Approaching sufficiently near to see clearly,

he discovered that this little knot were all bulls, standing in a

close circle with their heads downward, while in a concentric circle,

at some twelve or fifteen paces distant, sat, licking their chops in

impatient expectancy, at least a dozen large gray wolves--except man,

the most dangerous enemy of the buffalo. The doctor determined to watch

the performance. After a few moments the knot broke up, still keeping

in a compact mass, and started on a trot for the main herd some half

mile off. To his very great astonishment, the doctor now saw that the

central and controlling figure of this mass was a poor little calf, so

newly born as scarcely to be able to walk. After going fifty or one

hundred yards, the calf lay down; the bulls disposed themselves in a

circle as before, and the wolves, who had trotted along on each flank

of their retreating supper, sat down and licked their chops again. This

was repeated again and again, and although the doctor did not see the

finale (it being late and the camp distant), he had no doubt that the

noble fathers did their whole duty by their offspring, and carried it

safely to the herd.”

We may imagine that this was an unusual occurrence; at the same time,

it is true that a group of buffalo, if one of their number is attacked

or threatened by wolves while they are close together, will all rally

to the general defence, and will stand by each other. But that the

bulls make it their business to defend calves, or systematically

preserve anything except their own skins, I do not believe.

Few people who have seen the buffalo only in captivity, few even of

those who have hunted them on the level plains, have any idea of the

agility of this clumsy, heavy creature, or of the disposition that it

shows to reach elevated points, so difficult of access that a horse

might find it a hard matter to climb them. In old times, one might

see buffalo ascending steeps that were nearly vertical; or, on the

other hand, throwing themselves down the sides of mountains so sharply

sloping and rough that a horseman would not dare follow them. Like many

other animals, wild and tame, they often liked to seek elevated points

from which a wide view might be had, and I have found their tracks and

other signs on points high up in the mountains, where only sheep or

goats would be looked for. The mountain bison, so-called--and by many

hunters regarded as a species quite distinct from the buffalo of the

plains--was especially given to frequenting the peaks in summer; no

doubt in part to avoid the attacks of flies, but also in part--as I

believe--from sheer love of climbing.

Like most other herbivorous animals, the buffalo was subject to panics,

and was easily stampeded, and when thoroughly frightened, a herd ran

for a long way before stopping. When alarmed, they huddled together

as closely as possible, running in a dense mass. The result of this

was that only the animals on the outskirts of the herd could see where

they were going; those in the centre blindly followed their leaders

and depended on them. This very fact was a source of danger, for the

leaders, crowded upon by those that followed, even if they saw peril

in front of them, could not stop, and often could not even turn aside,

but were constantly forced on to a danger that they would gladly have

avoided. This is the entirely simple explanation of a characteristic

often wondered at by writers about this species; that is, their habit

of running headlong into danger,--plunging over cut banks into the

pens prepared for them by the Indians, or rushing into quicksands or

places where they mired down, or into deep water, which might have well

been avoided, or even up against such obstacles as a train of cars or

a steamboat in the river. The simple fact is that the animals which

saw the danger were unable to avoid it on account of the pressure from

behind, and those that were pressing the leaders on were ignorant of

the danger toward which they were rushing.

I have already adverted to the popular but erroneous belief that the

buffalo performed extensive migrations in spring and fall. This is

not true. There were, unquestionably, certain seasonal movements east

and west, and north and south, yet these movements were never very

extended, and constituted nothing more than the very general shiftings

which are made by many ruminants between a summer and a winter range.

Throughout the country lying between the Saskatchewan and the Missouri

River, the buffalo, in summer, moved up close to the mountains and even

into the foot-hills; and at the coming of winter, with its snows and

its bitter winds, they moved to the eastward again, seeking the lower

ground and such shelter as the ravines and buttes and timbered river

valleys of the prairie might afford.

On the other hand, buffalo, in their journeys to water, usually

travelled to the nearest streams, and as on the plains the streams

usually run from west to east, and the buffalo travelled in single

file, their trails ran at right angles to the course of the rivers,

or north and south. It is quite possible that the directions of these

trails, deeply worn, and showing the passage of great numbers of

animals, may have given rise to the popular belief in this north and

south migration.

At the same time, it is true that the buffalo herds were more or less

constantly in motion. As they were very numerous, it was obviously

essential that they should move constantly, to reach fresh grazing

grounds. Often, too, they were disturbed by hunters, red or white, who

stampeded the herds, which then rushed off in a close mass, perhaps not

to stop for ten or a dozen miles. Besides that, frequently, the prairie

was burned, so that they were deprived of food, and long journeys must

be made to reach fresh grazing grounds.

[Illustration: PROTECTED]

Not very much is known, and very much less has been written concerning

the tendency in animals, wild and domestic, to confine themselves

to particular localities; yet all people who live much out of doors

understand, even though they may not reason much about it, how very

local in habit many birds and animals are. The ranchman, of course,

knows that the horses and cattle which feed on his range divide

themselves up into little bunches, each of which selects some special

area where they spend all their time, rarely moving far from it, except

to make journeys to water; or, at some change of the seasons, to

migrate from summer to winter range or back again. In domestic stock

this attachment to locality is strongly marked, and it is a common

thing for animals that have been driven to a range hundreds of miles

distant from that on which they have been accustomed to feed, to travel

back toward their old haunts as soon as they are turned loose. I have

known cases where one-third of a large bunch of horses, driven to a new

range four or five hundred miles away, were a year later gathered again

on their old home range. It is a matter of common experience for horses

that escape from owners, travelling at a distance from the home range,

to take the back trail and return to it.

Among our larger game animals a similar condition of things prevails.

White-tail deer are greatly attached to particular localities, and when

undisturbed, confine their wanderings within very narrow limits. Even

if thoroughly frightened, and driven to a considerable distance, they

soon return. If an old white-tail buck is run with dogs, he may make a

long chase, and cover a wide stretch of country, but to-morrow he will

probably be found in his old home. In the same way, mule deer, mountain

sheep, white goats, and antelope show their attachment for localities,

and unless persistently disturbed, wander but little.

The same thing is true with regard to non-migratory birds. Ruffed

grouse attach themselves to certain pieces of woodland, or to

particular swamps, and the birds may be found there all through the

season. In like manner, quail establish themselves on certain small

pieces of ground, and after their haunts have been learned, may be

started there with unfailing regularity.

During many years’ experience with big game, I have often had these

facts thrust on my attention, and have seen much to warrant the belief

that, like other wild animals, the buffalo feels attachment for a

particular range of country, which it does not desert except for good

reason, or when the change from summer to winter, or back again, leads

to a migration that may fairly be called seasonal. The buffalo’s

attachment to locality, and its natural inertia, is well exemplified

by an experience of Major G. W. H. Stouch, U.S.A., retired, a veteran

soldier of more than thirty-five years’ experience on the plains, of

which he told me many years ago. I give it as nearly as possible in his

own words:--

“In the fall of 1866 I was directed to proceed with Company C, Third

Infantry, to reëstablish old Fort Fletcher on the north fork of Big

Creek, sixteen miles below the present Fort Hays, Kansas. When on

October 16th we marched down to the site chosen, and went into camp,

I noticed half a mile above us on the creek bottom a considerable

herd of buffalo feeding; there were perhaps eight or nine hundred of

them. As soon as I saw them, it occurred to me that I would leave them

undisturbed, and that so long as they remained there they might furnish

us a supply of beef at very little cost of time or trouble. I therefore

ordered the men not to hunt up the creek, or disturb these buffalo in

any way, instructing them to do all their hunting down the stream.

“In order to put my idea in practice at once, I detailed one of the

soldiers as hunter and butcher of the company, and told him to go up

the creek and kill a buffalo, but not to show himself either before

or after firing the shot--merely to kill a fat cow and then to remain

under cover until I joined him with a wagon. He did so. At the report

of the rifle the buffalo fired at ran a few steps, and then lay down,

while those nearest to it made a few jumps, looked around, saw no one,

and then went on feeding. From the camp we were watching the result

of the shot, and as soon as fired, I went with a wagon to bring in

the meat. As the wagon approached the carcass, the nearest buffalo

moved out of the way, without showing any special fear, and the wagon

returned to camp with its load. This was repeated daily, the buffalo

never being frightened either by the shot or the wagon, and seeming

to become more tame as time went on, often approaching within a few

hundred yards of where we were at work erecting the buildings.

“About November 1st, Troop E, Seventh Cavalry (under Lieutenant

Wheelan) arrived to reinforce the post; and about November 19th Company

B, Thirty-seventh Infantry (under Lieutenant Phelps) also arrived. I

explained my plan of operation to these officers, and requested them

to detail hunters from their companies, and to order their men to hunt

down the creek, and not to disturb what I had come to regard as the

post beef herd. They did so, and the herd still remained with us.

“One morning in February, ’67, a sergeant, whom I had sent the day

before with a small detail to make a scout, rapped at my door, and

reported his return. Among other things, he said: ‘Lieutenant, I met

our buffalo herd travelling up the creek, about fifteen miles from

here. They were moving slowly; just feeding along.’

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